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2026-10-14T00:33:02Z

Klaudiusz: Add audited Oyster Perpetual ref. 1014 to the index

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<div class="rp-hero">
<div class="rp-hero-title">The Rolex reference encyclopedia</div>
<div class="rp-hero-lede">
Rolexopedia is a reference guide to vintage and discontinued Rolex watches. Browse a family to compare generations, or open a reference number for its production history, movement, dial variants and case details.

A reference number can cover decades of changes. The articles distinguish documented variants and later replacements, with sources for further reading. The serial-number, movement and bracelet guides help compare the parts of an individual watch. [[Rolexopedia:About|About the project →]]
</div>
<div class="rp-stats">
<div class="rp-stat"><b>{{NUMBEROFARTICLES}}</b><span>wiki articles</span></div>
<div class="rp-stat"><b>12</b><span>families</span></div>
<div class="rp-stat"><b>{{NUMBEROFFILES}}</b><span>image files</span></div>
<div class="rp-stat"><b>1920s onward</b><span>historical coverage</span></div>
</div>
</div>

== Browse by family ==

<div class="rp-grid">
<div class="rp-card">
<div class="rp-card-img rp-cover">[[File:Submariner vintage poster.webp|400px|link=Reference:submariner|alt=Rolex Submariner]]</div>
<div class="rp-card-body">
<div class="rp-card-title">[[Reference:submariner|Submariner]]</div>
<div class="rp-card-meta">Early divers through the ceramic generations</div>
<div class="rp-card-text">Big Crown models, the 5512 and 5513 dial changes, the Red Sub and the five-digit sapphire references.</div>
</div>
</div>
<div class="rp-card">
<div class="rp-card-img rp-cover">[[File:Daytona vintage poster.webp|400px|link=Reference:daytona|alt=Rolex Daytona]]</div>
<div class="rp-card-body">
<div class="rp-card-title">[[Reference:daytona|Daytona]]</div>
<div class="rp-card-meta">Manual-wind, Zenith and in-house chronographs</div>
<div class="rp-card-text">Manual-wind Valjoux chronographs, the Paul Newman exotic dials, the Zenith automatics and the in-house 4130 generation.</div>
</div>
</div>
<div class="rp-card">
<div class="rp-card-img rp-cover rp-cover-top">[[File:Ref gmt-master chuck-yeager-ad.webp|400px|link=Reference:gmt-master|alt=Rolex GMT-Master II Chuck Yeager advertisement]]</div>
<div class="rp-card-body">
<div class="rp-card-title">[[Reference:gmt-master|GMT-Master]]</div>
<div class="rp-card-meta">GMT-Master and GMT-Master II</div>
<div class="rp-card-text">From the Bakelite-bezel 6542 through the long 1675 run to the ceramic GMT-Master II.</div>
</div>
</div>
<div class="rp-card">
<div class="rp-card-img rp-cover rp-cover-top">[[File:Ref explorer vintage-ad.webp|400px|link=Reference:explorer|alt=Rolex Explorer advertisement with Hillary and Tenzing on Everest]]</div>
<div class="rp-card-body">
<div class="rp-card-title">[[Reference:explorer|Explorer]]</div>
<div class="rp-card-meta">Early Explorers and their sapphire successors</div>
<div class="rp-card-text">The 6150 and 6350, the long-running 1016, and the later sapphire-crystal models.</div>
</div>
</div>
<div class="rp-card">
<div class="rp-card-img rp-cover rp-cover-top">[[File:Ref explorer-ii vintage-ad.webp|400px|link=Reference:explorer-ii|alt=Rolex Explorer II advertisement with Alain Hubert]]</div>
<div class="rp-card-body">
<div class="rp-card-title">[[Reference:explorer-ii|Explorer II]]</div>
<div class="rp-card-meta">Fixed-bezel watches with a 24-hour hand</div>
<div class="rp-card-text">The orange-hand 1655 Freccione, the transitional 16550 and the long-run 16570.</div>
</div>
</div>
<div class="rp-card">
<div class="rp-card-img rp-cover rp-cover-top">[[File:Ref sea-dweller deepstar-ad.webp|400px|link=Reference:sea-dweller|alt=Rolex Deepstar 4000 advertisement]]</div>
<div class="rp-card-body">
<div class="rp-card-title">[[Reference:sea-dweller|Sea-Dweller]]</div>
<div class="rp-card-meta">Saturation-diving references</div>
<div class="rp-card-text">Single Red, Double Red and Great White 1665s, the Triple Six, later references and documented COMEX examples.</div>
</div>
</div>
<div class="rp-card">
<div class="rp-card-img rp-cover rp-cover-top">[[File:Ref day-date 1960-ad.webp|400px|link=Reference:day-date|alt=Rolex Day-Date 1960 advertisement]]</div>
<div class="rp-card-body">
<div class="rp-card-title">[[Reference:day-date|Day-Date]]</div>
<div class="rp-card-meta">Day and date displays, in gold or platinum</div>
<div class="rp-card-text">The President from the 1956 originals through the 1803 era, five-digit sapphire, Day-Date II and Oysterquartz.</div>
</div>
</div>
<div class="rp-card">
<div class="rp-card-img rp-cover">[[File:Milgauss vintage poster.webp|400px|link=Reference:milgauss|alt=Rolex Milgauss]]</div>
<div class="rp-card-body">
<div class="rp-card-title">[[Reference:milgauss|Milgauss]]</div>
<div class="rp-card-meta">Magnetic protection across two production eras</div>
<div class="rp-card-text">The lightning-bolt seconds hand of the 6541, the 1019 and the green-crystal 116400GV.</div>
</div>
</div>
<div class="rp-card">
<div class="rp-card-img rp-cover rp-cover-top">[[File:Ref air-king vintage-ad.webp|400px|link=Reference:air-king|alt=Rolex Air-King advertisement, steel is a precious metal]]</div>
<div class="rp-card-body">
<div class="rp-card-title">[[Reference:air-king|Air-King]]</div>
<div class="rp-card-meta">Early Air-Kings through the 34mm sapphire models</div>
<div class="rp-card-text">Early hand-wound models, the long-running 5500 and the sapphire-crystal 14000 line.</div>
</div>
</div>
<div class="rp-card">
<div class="rp-card-img">[[File:Ref 1002 hero.webp|400px|link=Reference:oyster-perpetual|alt=Rolex Oyster Perpetual]]</div>
<div class="rp-card-body">
<div class="rp-card-title">[[Reference:oyster-perpetual|Oyster Perpetual]]</div>
<div class="rp-card-meta">Time-only automatic Oysters</div>
<div class="rp-card-text">The plain-dial Oyster: classic four-digit 1002 to 1018, five-digit and the last pre-refresh 116000 generation.</div>
</div>
</div>
<div class="rp-card">
<div class="rp-card-img rp-cover rp-cover-top">[[File:Ref oyster 1929-ad.webp|400px|link=Reference:bubbleback|alt=Rolex Oyster 1929 advertisement]]</div>
<div class="rp-card-body">
<div class="rp-card-title">[[Reference:bubbleback|Bubbleback and early Oyster]]</div>
<div class="rp-card-meta">Manual Oysters and early automatics</div>
<div class="rp-card-text">The first waterproof Oysters, the domed-caseback automatics, the [[Reference:padellone|Padellone]], manual-wind Oyster Precision models such as the [[Reference:6082|6082]], and later Oysterdate Precision references such as the [[Reference:6094|6094]].</div>
</div>
</div>
<div class="rp-card">
<div class="rp-card-img rp-cover rp-cover-top">[[File:Ref prince 1932-ad.webp|400px|link=Reference:prince|alt=Rolex Prince 1932 advertisement]]</div>
<div class="rp-card-body">
<div class="rp-card-title">[[Reference:prince|Prince]]</div>
<div class="rp-card-meta">Rectangular and shaped cases</div>
<div class="rp-card-text">Rectangular Art-Deco chronometers: Classic 1343, Brancard 971, Railway and Tigre variants.</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>

{{Homepage featured}}

== Reference guides ==

<div class="rp-grid">
<div class="rp-card"><div class="rp-card-body">
<div class="rp-card-title">[[Reference:Serial-numbers|Serial numbers]]</div>
<div class="rp-card-meta">Serial systems and dating limits</div>
<div class="rp-card-text">Numeric and letter-prefix year ranges, hallmark dating for early watches, and the limits of randomized serials.</div>
</div></div>
<div class="rp-card"><div class="rp-card-body">
<div class="rp-card-title">[[Reference:Bracelets|Bracelets]]</div>
<div class="rp-card-meta">Bracelets, end links, clasps</div>
<div class="rp-card-text">Rivet, folded and solid Oyster, Jubilee and President bracelets, end-link numbers and the clasp date-code key.</div>
</div></div>
<div class="rp-card"><div class="rp-card-body">
<div class="rp-card-title">[[Reference:Movements|Movements]]</div>
<div class="rp-card-meta">Calibers across the watch families</div>
<div class="rp-card-text">From the early manual-wind Oyster calibers through the 1500 and 3000 series to the Zenith and in-house chronographs.</div>
</div></div>
</div>

== Every reference, by era ==

<div class="rp-index">
<div class="rp-index-head"><div class="rp-index-title">[[Reference:submariner|Submariner]]</div><div class="rp-index-more">[[Reference:submariner|Full Submariner index →]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Pre-five-digit<small>1953–90</small></div><div class="rp-chips">[[Reference:6204|6204]] [[Reference:6205|6205]] [[Reference:6200|6200]] [[Reference:6536|6536]] [[Reference:6536-1|6536/1]] [[Reference:6538|6538]] [[Reference:5508|5508]] [[Reference:5510|5510]] [[Reference:5512|5512]] [[Reference:5513|5513]] [[Reference:5514|5514]] [[Reference:5517|5517]] [[Reference:1680|1680]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Five-digit<small>1979–2010</small></div><div class="rp-chips">[[Reference:14060|14060]] [[Reference:14060M|14060M]] [[Reference:16800|16800]] [[Reference:16610|16610]] [[Reference:16610LV|16610LV]] [[Reference:16803|16803]] [[Reference:16808|16808]] [[Reference:16613|16613]] [[Reference:16618|16618]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Current<small>2020–present</small></div><div class="rp-chips">[[Reference:126610LN|126610LN]] [[Reference:126610LV|126610LV]]</div></div>
</div>
<div class="rp-index">
<div class="rp-index-head"><div class="rp-index-title">[[Reference:daytona|Daytona]]</div><div class="rp-index-more">[[Reference:daytona|Full Daytona index →]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Manual-wind chronograph<small>1962–1988</small></div><div class="rp-chips">[[Reference:6238|6238]] [[Reference:6239|6239]] [[Reference:6240|6240]] [[Reference:6241|6241]] [[Reference:6262|6262]] [[Reference:6263|6263]] [[Reference:6264|6264]] [[Reference:6265|6265]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Zenith automatic<small>1988–2000</small></div><div class="rp-chips">[[Reference:16520|16520]] [[Reference:16518|16518]] [[Reference:16519|16519]] [[Reference:16523|16523]] [[Reference:16528|16528]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">In-house cal 4130<small>2000–2016</small></div><div class="rp-chips">[[Reference:116520|116520]] [[Reference:116523|116523]] [[Reference:116528|116528]]</div></div>
</div>
<div class="rp-index">
<div class="rp-index-head"><div class="rp-index-title">[[Reference:pre-daytona-chronographs|Pre-Daytona chronographs]]</div><div class="rp-index-more">[[Reference:pre-daytona-chronographs|Full family guide →]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Early single-button<small>1920s–1930s</small></div><div class="rp-chips">[[Reference:2021|2021]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Early two-register<small>1930s–1940s</small></div><div class="rp-chips">[[Reference:2508|2508]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Round Oyster chronographs<small>from c.1950</small></div><div class="rp-chips">[[Reference:6034|6034]]</div></div>
</div>
<div class="rp-index">
<div class="rp-index-head"><div class="rp-index-title">[[Reference:gmt-master|GMT-Master]]</div><div class="rp-index-more">[[Reference:gmt-master|Full GMT-Master guide →]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Vintage<small>1955–99</small></div><div class="rp-chips">[[Reference:6542|6542]] [[Reference:1675|1675]] [[Reference:16750|16750]] [[Reference:16753|16753]] [[Reference:16758|16758]] [[Reference:16700|16700]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">GMT-Master II<small>1983–2007</small></div><div class="rp-chips">[[Reference:16760|16760]] [[Reference:16710|16710]] [[Reference:16713|16713]] [[Reference:16718|16718]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Ceramic 116xxx<small>2005–19</small></div><div class="rp-chips">[[Reference:116718LN|116718LN]] [[Reference:116713LN|116713LN]] [[Reference:116710LN|116710LN]] [[Reference:116710BLNR|116710BLNR]] [[Reference:116719BLRO|116719BLRO]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Ceramic 126xxx<small>2018–present</small></div><div class="rp-chips">[[Reference:126710BLRO|126710BLRO]] [[Reference:126711CHNR|126711CHNR]] [[Reference:126715CHNR|126715CHNR]] [[Reference:126710BLNR|126710BLNR]] [[Reference:126720VTNR|126720VTNR]] [[Reference:126713GRNR|126713GRNR]] [[Reference:126718GRNR|126718GRNR]] [[Reference:126710GRNR|126710GRNR]]</div></div>
</div>
<div class="rp-index">
<div class="rp-index-head"><div class="rp-index-title">[[Reference:explorer|Explorer]]</div><div class="rp-index-more">[[Reference:explorer|Full Explorer index →]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Vintage<small>1952–89</small></div><div class="rp-chips">[[Reference:6150|6150]] [[Reference:6350|6350]] [[Reference:6298|6298]] [[Reference:6610|6610]] [[Reference:1016|1016]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Modern<small>1989–2021</small></div><div class="rp-chips">[[Reference:14270|14270]] [[Reference:114270|114270]] [[Reference:214270|214270]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Current<small>2021–present</small></div><div class="rp-chips">[[Reference:124270|124270]]</div></div>
</div>
<div class="rp-index">
<div class="rp-index-head"><div class="rp-index-title">[[Reference:explorer-ii|Explorer II]]</div><div class="rp-index-more">[[Reference:explorer-ii|Full Explorer II index →]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Vintage Freccione<small>1971–1984</small></div><div class="rp-chips">[[Reference:1655|1655]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Transitional<small>1985–1989</small></div><div class="rp-chips">[[Reference:16550|16550]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Modern 40mm<small>1989–2010</small></div><div class="rp-chips">[[Reference:16570|16570]]</div></div>
</div>
<div class="rp-index">
<div class="rp-index-head"><div class="rp-index-title">[[Reference:sea-dweller|Sea-Dweller]]</div><div class="rp-index-more">[[Reference:sea-dweller|Full Sea-Dweller index →]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Single Red to Great White<small>1967–1983</small></div><div class="rp-chips">[[Reference:1665|1665]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Triple Six and 16600<small>1978–2008</small></div><div class="rp-chips">[[Reference:16660|16660]] [[Reference:16600|16600]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Ceramic<small>2008–2017</small></div><div class="rp-chips">[[Reference:116600|116600]]</div></div>
</div>
<div class="rp-index">
<div class="rp-index-head"><div class="rp-index-title">[[Reference:day-date|Day-Date]]</div><div class="rp-index-more">[[Reference:day-date|Full Day-Date index →]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Originals<small>1956–59</small></div><div class="rp-chips">[[Reference:6510|6510]] [[Reference:6511|6511]] [[Reference:6611|6611]] [[Reference:6612|6612]] [[Reference:6612B|6612B]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">4-digit President<small>1959–78</small></div><div class="rp-chips">[[Reference:1803|1803]] [[Reference:1804|1804]] [[Reference:1806|1806]] [[Reference:1807|1807]] [[Reference:1811|1811]] [[Reference:1831|1831]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">5-digit<small>1977–2000</small></div><div class="rp-chips">[[Reference:18038|18038]] [[Reference:18028|18028]] [[Reference:18048|18048]] [[Reference:18078|18078]] [[Reference:18238|18238]] [[Reference:18248|18248]] [[Reference:18348|18348]] [[Reference:18208|18208]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">6-digit Day-Date 36<small>2000–19</small></div><div class="rp-chips">[[Reference:118238|118238]] [[Reference:118208|118208]] [[Reference:118235|118235]] [[Reference:118138|118138]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Day-Date II 41mm<small>2008–15</small></div><div class="rp-chips">[[Reference:218238|218238]] [[Reference:218206|218206]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Oysterquartz<small>1977–2001</small></div><div class="rp-chips">[[Reference:19018|19018]] [[Reference:19028|19028]]</div></div>
</div>
<div class="rp-index">
<div class="rp-index-head"><div class="rp-index-title">[[Reference:milgauss|Milgauss]]</div><div class="rp-index-more">[[Reference:milgauss|Full Milgauss index →]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Early and CERN era<small>c.1955–1988</small></div><div class="rp-chips">[[Reference:6543|6543]] [[Reference:6541|6541]] [[Reference:1019|1019]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Modern<small>2007–2023</small></div><div class="rp-chips">[[Reference:116400|116400]]</div></div>
</div>
<div class="rp-index">
<div class="rp-index-head"><div class="rp-index-title">[[Reference:air-king|Air-King]]</div><div class="rp-index-more">[[Reference:air-king|Full Air-King index →]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Battle of Britain origin<small>1945–53</small></div><div class="rp-chips">[[Reference:4925|4925]] [[Reference:4365|4365]] [[Reference:4499|4499]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">First automatic<small>1953–57</small></div><div class="rp-chips">[[Reference:6552|6552]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Long-run mainstay<small>1957–89</small></div><div class="rp-chips">[[Reference:5500|5500]] [[Reference:5501|5501]] [[Reference:5502|5502]] [[Reference:5504|5504]] [[Reference:5506|5506]] [[Reference:5520|5520]] [[Reference:5700|5700]] [[Reference:5701|5701]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Sapphire era<small>1989–2014</small></div><div class="rp-chips">[[Reference:14000|14000]] [[Reference:14000M|14000M]] [[Reference:114200|114200]]</div></div>
</div>
<div class="rp-index">
<div class="rp-index-head"><div class="rp-index-title">[[Reference:oyster-perpetual|Oyster Perpetual]]</div><div class="rp-index-more">[[Reference:oyster-perpetual|Full Oyster Perpetual index →]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Earlier references<small>Catalogue dates conflict; no production span established</small></div><div class="rp-chips">[[Reference:6548|6548]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Mid-century<small>Mostly 1950s catalogue dates; case 994893 has conflicting 1964 and 1954 estimates</small></div><div class="rp-chips">[[Reference:6106|6106]] [[Reference:6502|6502]] [[Reference:6567|6567]] [[Reference:6609|6609]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Classic four-digit<small>1950s–1988 catalogue examples; limits vary by reference</small></div><div class="rp-chips">[[Reference:1002|1002]] [[Reference:1003|1003]] [[Reference:1005|1005]] [[Reference:1007|1007]] [[Reference:1008|1008]] [[Reference:1009|1009]] [[Reference:1010|1010]] [[Reference:1011|1011]] [[Reference:1013|1013]] [[Reference:1014|1014]] [[Reference:1018|1018]] [[Reference:1022|1022]] [[Reference:1023|1023]] [[Reference:1024|1024]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Last pre-refresh generation<small>2007–2020</small></div><div class="rp-chips">[[Reference:116000|116000]] [[Reference:114300|114300]] [[Reference:177200|177200]] [[Reference:176200|176200]]</div></div>
</div>
<div class="rp-index">
<div class="rp-index-head"><div class="rp-index-title">[[Reference:bubbleback|Bubbleback and early Oyster]]</div><div class="rp-index-more">[[Reference:bubbleback|Full Bubbleback and early Oyster index →]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Pre-Oyster and Oyster<small>1922–37</small></div><div class="rp-chips">[[Reference:1925|1925]] [[Reference:2081|2081]] [[Reference:3666|3666]] [[Reference:2136|2136]] [[Reference:3003|3003]] [[Reference:3004|3004]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Manual-wind Oyster<small>c.1930s–1940s</small></div><div class="rp-chips">[[Reference:1573|1573]] [[Reference:2280|2280]] [[Reference:2416|2416]] [[Reference:2849|2849]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Bubbleback era<small>1933–45</small></div><div class="rp-chips">[[Reference:1858|1858]] [[Reference:3131|3131]] [[Reference:3372|3372]] [[Reference:3525|3525]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Straight-lug Empire Oyster<small>catalogue dates circa 1940–1950s</small></div><div class="rp-chips">[[Reference:3548|3548]] [[Reference:3716|3716]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Square Perpetual<small>1940s–1952 catalogue examples</small></div><div class="rp-chips">[[Reference:4643|4643]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Datejust, Padellone, Super Oyster<small>1945–53</small></div><div class="rp-chips">[[Reference:3478|3478]] [[Reference:6244|6244]] [[Reference:4467|4467]] [[Reference:5030|5030]] [[Reference:5031|5031]] [[Reference:6031|6031]] [[Reference:6075|6075]] [[Reference:6105|6105]] [[Reference:8171|8171]] [[Reference:6098|6098]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Oyster Precision</div><div class="rp-chips">[[Reference:6082|6082]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Oysterdate Precision</div><div class="rp-chips">[[Reference:6094|6094]]</div></div>
</div>
<div class="rp-index">
<div class="rp-index-head"><div class="rp-index-title">[[Reference:prince|Prince]]</div><div class="rp-index-more">[[Reference:prince|Full Prince index →]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Brancard era<small>1928–mid-1940s</small></div><div class="rp-chips">[[Reference:1343|1343]] [[Reference:971|971]] [[Reference:971U|971U]] [[Reference:1490|1490]] [[Reference:1491|1491]] [[Reference:1527|1527]] [[Reference:1862|1862]] [[Reference:3361|3361]] [[Reference:3937|3937]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Other rectangular Princes<small>Catalogue dates c.1927–1938</small></div><div class="rp-chips">[[Reference:1768|1768]] [[Reference:1880|1880]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Prince Imperial pocket watch<small>c.1930–1945</small></div><div class="rp-chips">[[Reference:1645|1645]]</div></div>
</div>

<div class="rp-index">
<div class="rp-index-head"><div class="rp-index-title">Other vintage references</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Manual-wind, small seconds<small>catalogued 1929–1940s</small></div><div class="rp-chips">[[Reference:2318|2318]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Rectangular manual-wind<small>catalogued circa 1930–1938</small></div><div class="rp-chips">[[Reference:1936|1936]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Manual-wind Oyster<small>catalogued 1930s–c.1955</small></div><div class="rp-chips">[[Reference:3096|3096]] [[Reference:3019|3019]] [[Reference:3116|3116]] [[Reference:3121|3121]] [[Reference:3136|3136]] [[Reference:5056|5056 (Kew A Speedking)]] [[Reference:6210|6210 (Kew A)]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Oyster Speedking<small>catalogued c.1952–1953</small></div><div class="rp-chips">[[Reference:6056|6056]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Chronometre Scientific<small>1937 case marks; catalogued examples circa 1937</small></div><div class="rp-chips">[[Reference:2942|2942]]</div></div>
</div>

<div class="rp-index">
<div class="rp-index-head"><div class="rp-index-title">Cellini</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Vintage dress watch<small>Catalogued examples dated 1967–69</small></div><div class="rp-chips">[[Reference:3735|3735]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Modern Cellini Prince</div><div class="rp-chips">[[Reference:5440/8|5440/8]] [[Reference:5441/9|5441/9]]</div></div>
</div>

<div class="rp-footnote">Rolexopedia is an independent community reference and is not affiliated with, endorsed by, or sponsored by Rolex SA. "Rolex" and the model names on this site are trademarks of their owners and are used only to identify the watches described. See the [[Rolexopedia:General disclaimer|disclaimer]].</div>

[[Category:Rolexopedia]]

Reference:Serial-numbers

2026-10-14T00:33:01Z

Klaudiusz: [bot-audit] proposal #60 ref=Serial-numbers agents=refutter_review (FlaggedRevs pending review)

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex serial numbers}}
{{#seo:|title=Rolex serial numbers: dating guide and limits | Rolexopedia|description=Numeric and letter-prefixed Rolex serial charts, with their limits. How to compare case numbers, hallmarks, caseback stamps and dated paperwork.}}
<small>[[Main Page]] › '''Serial numbers'''</small>

Rolex used numeric case serials, then letter-prefixed serials, and later randomized alphanumeric strings. Numeric and letter-prefixed ranges can suggest a production period. Randomized serials have no public year mapping. None of these systems establishes the originality of the dial, movement or bracelet.

== The three systems ==

Rolex restarted its numeric case sequence in the mid-1950s. The same short number can therefore fall in more than one period. Letter-prefixed serials appeared around 1987; randomized serials followed around 2010. Neither change happened as a simple one-year boundary across every reference.

== Finding the serial number ==

On many Oyster references made before the rehaut transition of the mid-2000s, the serial is engraved between the lugs at 6 o'clock, beneath the bracelet. The reference number is usually between the opposite lugs at 12 o'clock. Earlier case designs need reference-specific guidance.

The serial moved to the rehaut, the inner ring around the dial, during the 2000s. It appears at 6 o'clock. The change varied by reference; compare transition-period watches with documented examples of the same model. Serial placement alone does not establish a case replacement.
Rolex has not published a public year key for the randomized strings. A date assigned to one of those cases therefore comes from a guarantee, service record or dated sale, not from the characters alone.

Matching serials link a warranty card or guarantee paper to the case number, provided the document itself is authentic. They do not establish the originality of every component. The [[Reference:Bracelets|clasp]] uses a separate dating system. A movement can carry caliber designations, part references and an individual movement number; identify the marking before interpreting it.

== Numeric serials (≤1987) ==

The table transcribes selected entries from the Pergola and Dowling–Hess charts reproduced in [https://rolexhaven.com/serial-numbers.html these photographs]. These are unofficial collector charts. Dowling–Hess places serial 132,562 in III 1953; Pergola puts 63,425–139,166 in 1955. The disagreement cannot be resolved by averaging the dates.

The table is selective, with gaps between some entries. For a number outside it, compare documented examples of the reference. A matching row supplies an estimate, not proof of manufacture, assembly or sale in that year.

The 6082 records show why catalogue dates need to stay attached to their watches: Gardiner Houlgate dates a ref. 6082 with serial masked as 69x to circa 1948–50; the masked number cannot calibrate the serial chart. Antiquorum dates case 784516 to 1951 and case 721396 to circa 1962; Monaco Legend dates case 810693 to 1951; Sotheby’s dates lower-numbered case 696848 to circa 1960. These estimates do not follow a consistent case-number sequence. Keep the catalogue dates attributed and do not use them to revise the generic serial chart. [https://auctions.gardinerhoulgate.co.uk/print-catalogue/354e86b2f2f64361e4c737fa8504bc4f/63b778f7668dabe928d3800924a99077/watches-jewellery-now-14th-may/ Gardiner Houlgate, lot 436] [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-108-12 Antiquorum, case 784516] [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-6082-oyster-lot-343-309 Antiquorum, case 721396] [https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/index.php/auction/exclusive-timepieces-32/lot-162 Monaco Legend, case 810693] [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2022/fine-watches-2/reference-6082-oyster-precision-a-stainless-steel Sotheby’s, case 696848]

For ref. [[Reference:5056|5056]], catalogues report cases 628830, 629518 and 630309. Christie’s dates the certificate for movement 4237 to 20 July 1948; Bonhams dates movement 4215’s Kew pass to 24 June 1947 but gives the same case 629518 both circa 1947 and circa 1961; Monaco Legend dates case 630309 to 1949. The test date belongs to the movement, and the lot estimates do not establish a serial-year sequence or production span. [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-306366 Christie’s, case 628830] [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/24632/lot/21/rolex-a-very-rare-stainless-steel-manual-wind-bracelet-watch-with-kew-certification-and-especially-good-result-oyster-speedking-kew-a-certificate-ref-5056-circa-1947/ Bonhams, case 629518] [https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-38/lot-192 Monaco Legend, case 630309]

The ref. [[Reference:6210|6210]] article lists five-digit case numbers with the individual sale records. James Dowling reported case 97458 from a Rolex letter. These records do not connect the 6210 numbers to the generic serial charts. [https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-rolex-kew-a-quite-possibly-and-very-likely-the-most-accurate-vintage-rolexes-ever-made Hodinkee on Dowling’s report]

Two dealer records differ by a year from the 1962 Pergola band. HODINKEE dates 1022 case 856369 to 1963; LV800 dates case 856242 to circa 1963. Both numbers fall in the chart’s 1962 band. These are estimates for individual watches, not factory production dates. [https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/1963-rolex-oyster-perpetual-ref-1022-florentine-finish HODINKEE, case 856369]; [https://www.1stdibs.com/jewelry/watches/wrist-watches/rolex-mens-18k-rolex-oyster-perpetual-1022-automatic-c1963-swiss-vintage-lv800/id-j_9711082/ LV800 via 1stDibs, case 856242]; [https://rolexhaven.com/serial-numbers.html Pergola chart photograph].

Ref. [[Reference:1023|1023]] shows the same limits. ART Jewellery & Watches lists 1023/9 and 1023/83 for 1964–1971 but gives no basis for those dates. Waddington’s dates serial 902827 to circa 1964, while Pergola places it in the 1962 band. Gardiner Houlgate dates partial serial 1136xxx to circa 1964; the partial number cannot be checked precisely against a serial chart. Hess catalogues case 1,382,519 as circa 1966, matching Pergola’s 1966 band, though the photographed guarantee appears dated 1/6/68. Watch.de dates a 2,186xxx example to 1969, within Pergola’s 1969 band; Kaplans lists serial 2,186,841 with the same approximate date. Watch.de masks its number as 2186xxx, so the exact serial match cannot be checked; the shared case number and other listing details suggest a repeat appearance. Heritage catalogues serial 933953 as circa 1986, a date that conflicts with the ART guide and ordinary serial-chart estimates; the record is not enough to extend the reference into the 1980s. These catalogue dates and unofficial chart bands apply to individual cases, not the reference’s production span. [https://www.lot-art.com/auction-lots/Rolex-Oyster-Perpetual-Wristwatch/134-rolex_oyster_wristwatch-12.6.18-waddington Waddington’s, lot 134]; [https://www.the-saleroom.com/de-de/auction-catalogues/gardiner-houlgate/catalogue-id-srgard10204/pdfexport Gardiner Houlgate, lot 73]; [https://www.hessfineauctions.com/auction-lot/rare-rolex-1023-mens-14k-gold-orig-brickwork-gold_a8c065ff1b Hess Fine Auctions, lot 12570]; [https://www.kaplans.se/en/auktioner/3967?p=2 Kaplans, item 1 778 671]; [https://archive.watch.de/archive_english/rolex-oyster-perpetual-rindengravur-18kt-gelbgold-automatik-armband-leder-34mm-ref-1023-vintage-bj-1969-box-beschreibung-wie-neu-mit-zertifikat-uber-11-900.html Watch.de archive]; [https://rolexhaven.com/serial-numbers.html Pergola chart photograph]; [https://artjewellerywatches.com/en/rolex-production-year ART Jewellery & Watches, production-year table]; [https://jewelry.ha.com/itm/timepieces/rolex-men-s-gold-oyster-perpetual-bracelet-wristwatch-circa-1986case-34-mm-14k-yellow-gold-oyster-case-wit/a/668-39217.s Heritage Auctions, lot 39217].

A 1stDibs item description gives a partial serial, 529,xxx, for a claimed ref. 1010 and dates it circa 1960; the page title says ref. 1011. The number falls in Pergola’s 1959 range. Its missing digits do not show whether it is Dowling–Hess’s exact 529,163 entry. [https://www.1stdibs.com/jewelry/watches/wrist-watches/rolex-14-karat-yellow-gold-bombe-ref-1011-circa-1960/id-j_6301282/ 1stDibs listing; item text says ref. 1010]

Early chronograph catalogues also show why an individual case number needs its own evidence. Christie’s dated Rolex ref. 2021 case 12'010 to circa 1925; Phillips later catalogued the same case as a 1934 watch. These are conflicting auction estimates, not a serial-chart date or a confirmed production year. [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-4596639 Christie’s, case 12'010] [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/115419 Phillips, case 12'010]

Ref. [[Reference:2303|2303]] predates the later Oyster serial charts. For a gold example, use British assay marks when present; the [[#Glasgow_and_Edinburgh_assay_marks|Glasgow and Edinburgh method]] dates the case’s assay, which can precede movement fitting or sale. Both catalogues describe case 021187 as steel and give catalogue dates: Christie’s says circa 1928; Antiquorum says the 1930s. [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5674766 Christie’s, case 021187] [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-111-95 Antiquorum, case 021187]

For early Oyster ref. 2081, Antiquorum links case 599744 to its 1947 catalogue date and case 63715 to its 1948 date; Christie’s records case 37'271 with a Glasgow import letter for 1937. Toovey’s transcribes “5557 CH” over “2081” on another caseback. These remain individual object records rather than entries in a year chart. [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-108-226 Antiquorum, case 599744] [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-203-675 Antiquorum, case 63715] [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5130485 Christie’s, case 37'271] [https://www.tooveys.com/lots/536665/a-rolex-oyster-chrome-plated-cushion-cased-gentlemans-wristwatch Toovey’s, caseback inscription]

Ref. 2280 auction catalogues associate case 81,877 with circa 1936, case 79,895 with circa 1939, case 77585 with circa 1940, cases 130’527 and 123’375 with circa 1941, and cases 159,151 and 217’903 with circa 1942. Toovey’s photographs 159151 over the reference number. These are dates assigned to separate watches by their cataloguers; they do not establish a serial sequence or production-year boundaries. [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/17938/lot/244/rolex-a-stainless-steel-manual-wind-wristwatchroyal-ref-2280-case-number-81877-retailed-by-murdocks-capetown-circa-1936/ Bonhams, case 81,877] [https://everywatch.com/rolex/2280/watch-9112655 EveryWatch mirror of Bonhams, case 79,895] [https://www.christies.com/lot/lot-4403759 Christie’s, case 153,193] [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/131663 Phillips, case 130’527] [https://www.tooveys.com/lots/478633/a-rolex-oyster-majestic-observatory-steel-cased-gentlemans-wristwatch Toovey’s, case 159,151] [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-2280-oyster-royal-lot-381-214 Antiquorum, case 77585] [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2021/watches-13/rolex-oyster-royal-reference-2280-a-stainless Sotheby’s, case 217’903] [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2026/fine-watches/reference-2280-oyster-royal-a-stainless-steel Sotheby’s, case 123’375]

{| class="wikitable"
! Serial / range in source !! Date assigned by source !! Chart
|-
| 23,969 || 1928 || Dowling and Hess
|-
| 28,290 || 1930 || Dowling and Hess
|-
| 35,365 || 1935 || Dowling and Hess
|-
| 99,775 || 1940 || Dowling and Hess
|-
| 143,509 || 1942 || Dowling and Hess
|-
| 387,216 || 1946 || Dowling and Hess
|-
| 529,163 || 1947 || Dowling and Hess
|-
| 628,840 || 1948 || Dowling and Hess
|-
| 710,776 || 1951 || Dowling and Hess
|-
| 840,396 || 1952 || Dowling and Hess
|-
| 927,301–929,261 || 1952/1953 || Pergola
|-
| 929,262–974,681 || 1953 || Pergola
|-
| 974,682–982,114 || 1953/1954 || Pergola
|-
| 982,115–999,999 || 1954 || Pergola
|-
| 10,001–32,180 || 1954 || Pergola, restarted sequence
|-
| 32,181–63,424 || 1954/1955 || Pergola
|-
| 63,425–139,166 || 1955 || Pergola
|-
| 139,167–147,690 || 1955/1956 || Pergola
|-
| 147,691–261,715 || 1956 || Pergola
|-
| 272,289–360,987 || 1957 || Pergola
|-
| 381,923–426,480 || 1958 || Pergola
|-
| 437,255–530,168 || 1959 || Pergola
|-
| 539,969–663,484 || 1960 || Pergola
|-
| 688,767–785,296 || 1961 || Pergola
|-
| 840,046–919,916 || 1962 || Pergola
|-
| 950,451–974,197 || 1963 || Pergola, after the reset
|-
| 997,136–1,104,068 || 1964 || Pergola
|-
| 1,141,050–1,269,458 || 1965 || Pergola
|-
| 1,284,790–1,503,591 || 1966 || Pergola
|-
| 1,534,083–1,695,119 || 1967 || Pergola
|-
| 1,720,977–1,938,064 || 1968 || Pergola
|-
| 1,958,607–2,236,978 || 1969 || Pergola
|-
| 2,357,480–2,558,656 || 1970 || Pergola
|-
| 2,558,657–2,591,204 || 1970/1971 || Pergola
|-
| 3,215,500 || 1971 || Dowling and Hess
|-
| 3,478,400 || 1972 || Dowling and Hess
|-
| 3,741,300 || 1973 || Dowling and Hess
|-
| 4,004,200 || 1974 || Dowling and Hess
|}

<span id="The_mid-1950s_reset_in_practice:_Reference_6244"></span>
=== Conflicting catalogue dates: reference 6244 ===

Catalogue dates differ even for nearby case numbers on the [[Reference:6244|Oyster Royal 6244]]. [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/96544 Phillips dates case 834,991 to 1952]. Christie's gives [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5731475 circa 1959 for case 836,438] and [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5158176 1962 for case 836,447], only nine numbers apart. These catalogue dates do not establish a continuous production sequence. The reference page lists further examples.

=== Milgauss 6543 dated cases ===

Christie’s dates case 145'159 to 1955 and case 145'111 to circa 1955. These two 6543 watches anchor catalogue dates around 1955; their numbers do not establish a full case-number range or a year-by-year sequence. Compare the movement, case, papers and service history on the individual watch. [https://www.christies.com/lot/lot-5612347 Christie’s, lot 136, case 145'159]; [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6067487 Christie’s, lot 200, case 145'111].

Reference 6548 catalogues assign dates to individual watches: Dorotheum dates serial 230584 to circa 1942/43; Sotheby’s dates case 312’326 to circa 1945; Jones & Horan dates serial 230918 to circa 1957; Cambi dates case 324.xxx to circa 1957; and Pandolfini dates serial 22351xx to 1969. Dorotheum and Jones & Horan list Cal. 1130 in the two serial-numbered watches, whose serials differ by only 334 despite the fifteen-year date difference. These catalogue records conflict; they do not establish a serial-year key or production sequence. For early precious-metal watches, check any Glasgow or Edinburgh assay marks against the relevant office’s chart as described in the [[#Glasgow_and_Edinburgh_assay_marks|assay-mark guidance]]. [https://www.dorotheum.com/en/l/8560852/ Dorotheum]; [https://www.auctions.jones-horan.com/1901/html/rolex.htm Jones & Horan, lot 485]; [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2025/important-watches-ii/reference-6548-a-stainless-steel-wristwatch-with Sotheby’s]; [https://www.cambiaste.com/uk/auction-0841/rolex-precious-oyster-perpetual-watch-ref-6548-in-steel-with-silver-di-286012 Cambi]; [https://www.pandolfini.it/it/asta-0342/rolex-perpetual-ref-6548-n-22351xx-anno-1969-12020003040 Pandolfini].

== Letter serials (1987–2010) ==

Letter-prefixed case serials usually contain one letter and six digits. The years below come from Colin A. White's ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'', page 27. These collector estimates overlap and should be checked against the individual reference.

{| class="wikitable"
! Prefix !! Years listed by White
|-
| R || 1987–1988
|-
| L || 1989
|-
| E || 1990
|-
| N || 1991
|-
| X || 1991
|-
| C || 1992
|-
| S || 1993–1994
|-
| W || 1995
|-
| T || 1996
|-
| U || 1997–1998
|-
| A || 1999
|-
| P || 2000
|-
| K || 2000–2001
|-
| Y || 2001–2002
|-
| F || 2003–2005
|-
| D || 2005–2006
|-
| Z || 2006–2007
|-
| M || 2007–2008
|-
| V || 2008–2009
|-
| G || 2010
|}

Phillips records Explorer 114270 case G030393 with a [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/HK080422/8012 guarantee dated 30 November 2010]. That records a transaction date; it does not date the manufacture of the case.

Case serial prefixes and clasp codes are different systems. A letter on the clasp cannot be read as the same letter in the case-serial table.

<span id="Random_serials_(mid-2010_onward)"></span>
== Random serials (around 2010 onward) ==

Rolex began using randomized case serials around 2010, during the period of the final letter prefixes. Mixed-letter-and-digit serials have no public year mapping. A guarantee can establish a recorded sale date, but the serial alone cannot give the exact production year.

For a modern watch, start with the production span of the reference and any dated paperwork. Randomized clasp codes also lack a public year mapping. The case serial remains useful for linking records to a particular watch.

<span id="Pre-1948_vintage_references_and_hallmark_dating"></span>
== Early references and hallmark dating ==

For early [[Reference:prince|Prince]], [[Reference:bubbleback|Bubbleback]] and manual Oyster references such as [[Reference:3478|3478]], compare the case number with examples of the same reference and material. A chart covering later Oyster production may not describe an earlier case-number sequence. British hallmarks on precious-metal cases provide a separate assay date. Steel cases need other evidence.

Antiquorum dates [[Reference:1573|ref. 1573]] case 57,605 to the 1930s. The catalogue supplies an estimate for that watch; it does not establish a serial-year sequence. [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-1573-oyster-lot-361-42 Antiquorum, lot 42]

Two 9ct-gold ref. 3140 catalogues report Glasgow marks dated 1937: Christie’s on case 41,323 and Bonhams on case 41,310. These marks date the recorded assay/import, not the watch’s production or the reference’s production span. [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-203846 Christie’s, case 41,323]; [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/20749/lot/89/ Bonhams, case 41,310]

Christie’s records a Glasgow import mark dated 1937 on 9ct-gold [[Reference:3116|ref. 3116]] case 42169. The mark dates the case’s import record. Auction catalogues date other 3116 examples to circa 1934, 1940, and circa 1942; treat those as dates for the individual watches. [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-203952 Christie’s, case 42169]; [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5091712 Christie’s, case 56735]; [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-108-7 Antiquorum, case 148000]; [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-3116-oyster-elegante-lot-346-325 Antiquorum, case 169836].

For [[Reference:2849|ref. 2849]], Christie's dates case 36,617 to circa 1936; Antiquorum dates cases 87,464 and 36,618 to 1937, Christie's dates case 43,860 to circa 1938, and cases 36,592 and 39,120/2849 to circa 1940. Antiquorum’s 1989 catalogue labels an unnumbered example “1930,” but gives no case number to anchor that date. These are catalogue dates for individual watches, not a verified serial-year sequence; no production range for the reference is established. [https://www.christies.com/lot/lot-5731592 Christie’s, case 36,617]; [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-108-216 Antiquorum, case 87,464]; [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-2849-lot-272-145 Antiquorum, case 36,618]; [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5158485 Christie’s, case 43,860]; [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5758919 Christie’s, case 36,592]; [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-782260 Christie’s, case 39,120/2849]; [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/auctions/tokyo-1989-12-15/lots Antiquorum, 1989 lot 165].

For [[Reference:3096|ref. 3096]], Gardiner Houlgate reports Glasgow import marks dated 1937 on serial 41066. The mark dates that watch’s import record; it does not establish a production year for the reference. [https://auctions.gardinerhoulgate.co.uk/catalogue/lot/1a42656b28290c8a4b42b67ac9a365ce/63b778f7668dabe928d3800924a99077/watches-clocks-miscellaneous-horology-lot-59/ Gardiner Houlgate, lot 59].

For [[Reference:3136|ref. 3136]], auction catalogues assign 1930s–1940s dates to cases 101696, 102047, 104481, 105063, 110749, 136310, 147386, 147396 and 178901. The close pair 147386 and 147396 receives circa-1942 and 1930s estimates respectively. These are catalogue estimates for separate watches, not a verified serial-year sequence or reference production span. [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-3136-oyster-raleigh-lot-377-158 Antiquorum, case 101696]; [https://www.invaluable.com/auction-lot/rolex-oyster-lipton-ref-3136-switzerland-c-1937-99-c-4144bc1b46 Auctionata via Invaluable, case 102047]; [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-3136-oyster-junior-sport-lot-386-183 Antiquorum, case 104481]; [https://jewelry.ha.com/itm/timepieces/rare-oyster-junior-sport-by-rolex-retailed-by-beyer-stainless-steel-manual-wind-ref-3136-circa-1940/a/5408-54065.s Heritage Auctions, case 105063]; [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-214-214 Antiquorum, case 110749]; [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-3136-lot-302-30 Antiquorum, case 136310]; [https://www.bidsquare.com/online-auctions/schmitt-horan-co/a-second-quarter-20th-century-rolex-ref-3136-oyster-raleigh-wrist-watch-6746675 Bidsquare, case 147386]; [https://www.waddingtons.ca/auction/wrist-pocket-watches-dec-12-2024/gallery/lot/85/ Waddington's, case 147396]; [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5973290 Christie's, case 178901].
Antiquorum’s structured year field pairs ref. [[Reference:3121|3121]] case 43,475 with circa 1938, but its notes call the watch a 1940s Grenfell and also attribute 1938 to the caseback. Sotheby’s dates case 246,915 to circa 1943. These are conflicting catalogue statements and individual lot dates; they do not establish a serial-year sequence or production span. [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-3121-oyster-grenfell-lot-376-219 Antiquorum, lot 219]; [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2026/fine-watches/reference-3121-a-stainless-steel-cushion-shaped Sotheby’s, lot 405].

For [[Reference:6056|ref. 6056]], Watches of Knightsbridge dates an example to circa 1952 but gives no case number. Eguchi Vintage dates a seller-identified 6056 with partial serial 863*** to 1952. Bonhams dates case 864022 and Antiquorum dates case 865766 to circa 1953; Freeman's records case 865392 without a production date. These dates belong to individual watches. The partial serial does not establish a serial-year sequence or a factory production span. [https://watchesofknightsbridge.com/auctions/wp-content/uploads/19th-November-2016-SaleResults.pdf Watches of Knightsbridge]; [https://eguchi-store.jp/stocklist/e21080102/ Eguchi Vintage]; [https://images1.bonhams.com/original?src=Images%2Flive%2F2023-02%2F08%2FS-28031-0-1.pdf Bonhams]; [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-6056-oyster-speedking-lot-336-239 Antiquorum]; [https://freemansauction.com/auction/999-essential-jewelry/lot/318 Freeman's]

Ref. [[Reference:1925|1925]] shows why patent marks and case numbers need separate treatment. Christie’s lists case 25658 with Glasgow import marks dated 1928. Bonhams records a Dublin import mark dated 1928 and calls 260554 a case number. The British Museum transcribes 260554/1925 beneath “Great Britain Patents” on another early Oyster case; that object is not identified as ref. 1925. British patent GB260554A concerns a screw-threaded winding crown and has a listed priority date of 30 October 1925. Christie’s also prints “20302/260554” for its circa-1925 watch. Keep the catalogue numbers tied to those entries; the available records do not verify either field as a case serial. The import marks record the cases' entry into Britain and Ireland in 1928. [https://www.britishmuseum.org/collection/object/H_1986-0509-4 British Museum, object 1986,0509.4] [https://patents.google.com/patent/GB260554A/en British patent GB260554A] [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5606959 Christie’s, lot 5606959] [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/17940/lot/204/rolex-a-sterling-silver-manual-wind-wristwatchoyster-reference-1925-case-number-260554-hallmarked-dublin-import-1928/ Bonhams, lot 204]

Ref. [[Reference:1936|1936]] has dated case records from Bonhams and Dore & Rees. Bonhams gives Glasgow import marks for 1933 on case 10065 and 1934 on cases 150** and 15796; Dore & Rees records a 1937 mark on case 35894. Olde Timers reports Glasgow hallmarks dated 1938 on a ref. 1936 listing, but provides no full case number, leaving its identity relative to Bonhams case 150** unresolved. Bonhams' 2015 case 15796 is identified by its full number, distinct from the masked 150** record. The Glasgow dates are marks on individual cases; catalogue and dealer dates remain tied to their own watch records. [https://www.bonhams.com/discover/rolex/?page=28 Bonhams, case 10065] [https://electronicsandbooks.com/edt/manual/Art/Auction/Bonhams/2016/20160517%20S-23508-0-1%20Watches%20and%20Wristwatches%20including%20the%20Collection%20of%20a%20European%20Nobleman%20%5B112%5D.pdf Bonhams, case 150**; catalogue mirror] [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/22784/lot/82/rolex-a-9ct-gold-manual-wind-wristwatch-ref1936-case-no15796-glasgow-import-mark-for-1934/ Bonhams, case 15796] [https://www.vintage-wristwatches.co.uk/watches-catalogue/archived-watches/rolex-watches-archive/1930s-9ct-gold-rectangular-vintage-rolex-watch-4/ Olde Timers, archived listing] [https://auctions.doreandrees.com/catalogue/lot/58bbdc8bf521d34b501d4ce2a9bf9d90/ad74375b82a358e6eef0ce537def266d/fine-jewellery-and-watches-lot-377/ Dore & Rees, case 35894] [https://www.christies.com/lot/lot-a-9ct-gold-rectangular-wristwatchrolex-model-1891981/?from=siteindex&intobjectid=1891981&lid=1 Christie's, case 15055]

Ref. [[Reference:6094|6094]] shows how catalogue estimates can conflict even for the same watch. Antiquorum dated case 744253 to 1961 in 2010, then to 1951 when the watch returned as lot 291 in 2012; 1951 also falls near the published serial table's 710,776 (1951) and 840,396 (1952) entries. Nearby 88x,xxx cases carry three different lot dates: Bonhams gives circa 1952 for 881574 and records IV.52 inside its caseback, Antiquorum assigns 1962 to 882812, and Christie's gives circa 1954 for 882963. Treat IV.52 as a caseback date and each year as a catalogue estimate for its lot. [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-242-134 Antiquorum, 2010, lot 134]; [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-6094-tropical-lot-262-291 Antiquorum, 2012, lot 291]; [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/29893/lot/85/ Bonhams, lot 85]; [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-6094-oysterdate-precision-lot-313-138 Antiquorum, lot 138]; [https://www.christies.com/lot/lot-4970197 Christie's, lot 313].

A photographed [[Reference:1069|ref. 1069]] caseback carries 21,836 below the reference. The dealer dates it to the 1940s, while the serial reconstruction's first listed point is 23,969 for 1928. That comparison does not give 21,836 an exact year. An auction archive also reproduces a Bonhams description for case 21,431 with a 1940s date; it is the same watch listed twice, not an independent dating sequence. Neither record supplies a British assay mark. [https://www.1stdibs.com/jewelry/watches/wrist-watches/rolex-nickel-silver-cushion-shaped-oyster-original-dial/id-j_18189072/ 1stDibs caseback photographs]; [https://www.collectorsquare.com/en/watches/rolex/oyster/ref-rolex-1069/lpi Bonhams entries]

Catalogues for [[Reference:1072|ref. 1072]] give case numbers 44,887 (Toovey’s, circa 1938) and 24,432 (Antiquorum, 1930s). These are two catalogue examples, not a serial-year sequence; the numbers cannot establish production dates for another 1072. Christie’s also catalogues an early Oyster with case no. 1072, which is a different use of the number. [https://www.tooveys.com/lots/613066/a-rolex-oyster-ultra-prima-chrome-cushion-cased-gentlemans-wristwatch Toovey’s]; [https://www.collectorsquare.com/en/watches/rolex/prima/lpi Antiquorum lot 481 archive]; [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-203832 Christie’s case-number record]

The catalogues reviewed for [[Reference:1073|ref. 1073]] date individual examples circa 1926, circa 1930, in the 1930s, and 1934, but publish no case serial or assay mark. Those catalogue dates cannot be checked against later serial-year charts or hallmark tables. [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-15-258 Antiquorum]; [https://www.christies.com/lot/lot-811717 Christie’s]; [https://www.collectorsquare.com/en/watches/rolex/oyster/ref-rolex-1073/lpi Bonhams archive]; [https://www.bachmann-scher.de/sold-watches/rolex-vintage-early-waterproof-oyster-kanalschwimmer-canal-mercedes-gleitze-radium-california-dial-stainless-steel-bj-1934-9052.html Bachmann & Scher]

Auction and dealer records for [[Reference:2416|ref. 2416]] give case numbers 32,342 (Schuler, circa 1930s; Hodinkee dates the same 18ct watch to circa 1934), 36,776 (Christie’s, undated), 36,789 (Christie’s, circa 1935), 36,848 (Christie’s, circa 1935), 37,401 (Time Rediscovered, listed as 1936), 37,425 (Bonhams, Glasgow import mark dated 1936), 42,923 (Jones & Horan, circa 1937), 43,750 (Bonhams, Glasgow hallmark dated 1938), and 42,988 (Leonard Joel, circa 1940). These are individual case records, not a serial-year sequence: catalogue estimates date the watches, while Glasgow marks date import or assay events. Fortuna places case 36,751 around the 1920s, earlier than the other examples; keep it as an uncorroborated outlier. [https://www.schulerauktionen.ch/en/items/176-2124-rolex-oyster-1930er-jahre?category=armband-und-taschenuhren Schuler, case 32342]; [https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/bring-a-loupe-march-14-2025 Hodinkee, case 32342]; [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-3012418 Christie’s, case 36776]; [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-3881029 Christie’s, case 36789]; [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5674719 Christie’s, case 36,848]; [https://timerediscovered.com/products/rolex-oyster-2416-9k-gold-1936 Time Rediscovered, case 37401]; [https://images1.bonhams.com/original?src=Images%2Flive%2F2020-01%2F30%2FS-25954-0-1.pdf Bonhams, case 37425]; [https://images1.bonhams.com/original?src=Images%2Flive%2F2014-04%2F30%2FS-21663-0-1.pdf Bonhams, case 43750]; [https://www.auctions.jones-horan.com/210425/html/wristwatches_part_2.htm Jones & Horan, case 42923]; [https://www.invaluable.com/auction-lot/rolex-oyster-ref-2416-a-9ct-gold-wrist-watch-circ-45-c-42a4921831 Leonard Joel, case 42988]; [https://www.bidsquare.com/online-auctions/fortuna/rolex-oyster-ref-2416-cushion-shaped-wristwatch-in-9k-gold-1239453 Fortuna, case 36751]

Christie's catalogues three circa-1940 [[Reference:3064|ref. 3064]] cases: 56'924, 269'204, and 282'453. These are catalogue associations with individual watches, not a serial-year chart or production boundary. The records are [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5758921 New York lot 63], [https://www.christies.com/zh/lot/lot-5674834 Geneva lot 341], and [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5790151 Geneva lot 240].

Auction catalogues for [[Reference:2765|ref. 2765]] date individual watches from circa 1930 to circa 1942. Dawsons dates serial 76,781 to 1939; Bonhams dates serial 90,509 to circa 1939 and 140,782 to circa 1941. David Lay and Sotheby's identify the same case as 85,883; Finarte records 14,277; Christie's records 83,259 and 83,447; Bonhams publishes 85,7**, 90,509, 90,698, 90,501, 90,751, 90,939 and the partial number 133***, plus case 140,782. Auctionet gives case 90,995 without a production date. Christie's 1935 lot and Sotheby's 2004 catalogue give no case number. These dates apply to individual catalogue examples and do not establish a reference-wide serial sequence.

[[Reference:2318|Ref. 2318]] has five published case-number records: 033015 (Toovey’s, circa 1934), 033064 (Vintage Watch Centre, 1932), 026247 (Lot-Art, described as 1940s), 20050 (Shellman, 1930s), and the partial number 22,*** (WatchNet, 1930s). Christie’s dates a separate ref. 2318 lot to the 1940s and reports no case number. That estimate applies to the lot and cannot be matched to any of the five numbered examples. The catalogue and dealer dates do not establish a serial sequence. The reviewed material records no assay mark or independent date for these steel cases, so the dates should not be extended to other examples. [https://www.tooveys.com/lots/558618/a-rolex-mid-size-stainless-steel-circular-cased-gentlemans-wristwatch Toovey’s] [https://www.vintagewatchcentre.com/product/rolex-model-ref-2318-1932/ Vintage Watch Centre] [https://www.lot-art.com/auction-lots/ROLEX-REF-2318/158-rolex_2318_2318-06.11.21-meeting Lot-Art] [https://www.shellman-online.jp/view/item/000000003049 Shellman] [https://www.watchnet.co.jp/en/item/view/6221 WatchNet] [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-1817383 Christie’s, lot 578]

[[Reference:3009|Ref. 3009]] has scattered auction-assigned dates and case numbers, which do not establish a serial sequence. Bonhams records a Glasgow import mark dated 1937 on case 37845; the mark dates the assay or import, not manufacture. Antiquorum records a 1947 presentation inscription on case 474700, while its catalogue estimates the watch to circa 1959. Keep those dates attached to their separate evidence. [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/25397/lot/41/ Bonhams, case 37845]; [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-3009-oyster-perpetual-lot-351-250 Antiquorum, case 474700].

For [[Reference:2942|ref. 2942]], catalogues report Glasgow import marks dated 1937 on cases 30,075, 30,165 and 30,197, and a Dublin hallmark dated 1937 on case 30,125. These dates attach to individual cases; they do not establish a serial-year sequence or production span. Christie’s also dates an unnumbered 18ct example to 1937 and publishes no case number. [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-3057646 Christie’s, case 30,075]; [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-4211234 Christie’s, case 30,125]; [https://www.tooveys.com/lots/215089/a-rolex-9ct-gold-circular-cased-gentlemans-wristwatch/ Toovey’s, case 30,165]; [https://auctions.trevanion.com/catalogue/lot/61ed58ce15c8942699b260ac5d26131a/a7180bf4bbbb20d27ed1aac9c041a473/the-june-fine-art-and-antique-auction-lot-57/ Trevanion, case 30,197]; [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-1817520 Christie’s, unnumbered 18ct example].

[[Reference:3019|Ref. 3019]] has an ambiguous case number. Noonans records case 124,854 and dates the watch circa 1955. That number falls in Pergola’s 63,425–139,166 band for 1955 after the mid-1950s reset, but it also lies between selected Dowling–Hess entries 99,775 (1940) and 143,509 (1942) before the reset. The number cannot distinguish those cycles, and the Noonans catalogue reports no hallmark or dated paperwork. Keep circa 1955 attached to that lot rather than treating it as a reference-wide date. [https://noonans.co.uk/media/auction_catalogues/Jewellery%2010%20Sep%2024.pdf Noonans, 10 September 2024, lot 370].

For [[Reference:3353|ref. 3353]], Sotheby's dates case 146'235 to circa 1935. Christie's gives circa 1935 for case 146'243, while Antiquorum dates that same case to 1940 and identifies it as the earlier 2006 lot. The listings therefore disagree on the date of one watch; case numbers alone do not resolve the difference. See the [[Reference:3353|3353 page]] for the documented examples and source links.

[[Reference:3599|Ref. 3599]] provides another case-level date conflict. Antiquorum's [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-108-254 2006 lot 254] dates case 45,032 to 1945/6. Christie's [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5257795 2009 lot 346] identifies the same watch, cites the earlier Antiquorum sale as provenance, and dates it to 1939. Keep both estimates attached to this case; use watch-specific papers or comparison with documented examples when assessing another 3599.

[[Reference:1873|Ref. 1873]] shows why catalogue dates belong to individual watches. [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2020/important-watches/rolex-oyster-royal-extra-precision-reference-1873 Sotheby’s] dates case 30,967 to circa 1930; [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-1873-royal-lot-338-233 Antiquorum] dates cases 48,634 and 100,498 to the 1930s; Bonhams dates case 81,343 to circa 1939; and [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-782241 Christie’s] dates case 100,459 to circa 1940. Bonhams records a London import mark dated 1937 on gold case 37,029; that is an assay/import date. [https://www.cambiaste.com/uploads/auctions/868-cambi_orologi_795_2022_11_eb.pdf Cambi] lists case 48.xxx as circa 1954, an outlier among these entries. The records do not establish a factory production range.

Two Antiquorum catalogue entries for [[Reference:3003|3003]] and [[Reference:3004|3004]] give case dimensions but no case serials, so they do not establish a serial range. The 3004 lot title claims 144 examples in 1937; that statement is not a serial anchor or an independently confirmed production total. Compare the case number with other examples, and use assay marks on precious-metal cases as a separate date clue.

Auction dates for [[Reference:3130|ref. 3130]] also need to stay attached to individual watches. Sotheby's calls case 104789 circa 1937 ([2013 lot 197](https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2013/watches-n09002/lot.197.html)); Phillips calls case 521'285 circa 1945 and one of the last generation ([2021 lot 18](https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/159994)); Christie's catalogues case 443093 circa 1948 ([2007 lot 2858](https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5008631)) and another 3130 circa 1955 ([catalogue](https://www.christies.com/lot/lot-rolex-a-14ct-gold-automatic-centre-seconds-4133893/)). The estimates conflict and do not set a serial range or factory production end. Compare the serial, movement, case and any assay marks on the watch itself.

Catalogues date individual [[Reference:3134|3134]] cases: 126947 to circa 1941, 529380 to circa 1946, and 104396 to the 1950s. These lot-level estimates leave no reliable serial sequence for the reference. For another 3134, compare its number with the movement, case details and dated papers; an assay mark can provide a separate date clue. [https://uhren-muser.de/en/archives/101/50620 Dr. Crott, case 126947]; [https://uhren-muser.de/catalogues/en/Crott_91_US.pdf Dr. Crott, case 529380]; [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-3134-lot-272-143 Antiquorum, case 104396].

Catalogue dates for [[Reference:4643|ref. 4643]] cases remain lot-level estimates. Antiquorum dates case 641390 to 1948 ([https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-108-5 2006 Geneva lot 5]). Dorotheum dates case 568321 to circa 1950 ([https://www.dorotheum.com/de/l/3266729/ 2014 Vienna lot 3266729]); Christie’s gives the same estimate for case 568342, 21 numbers later ([https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-4211171 2003 London lot 97]). Christie’s dates case 824707 to 1952 ([https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5612415 2012 Geneva lot 204]). The nearby cases share an approximate catalogue date, but these records do not form a serial-year sequence. A Glasgow or Edinburgh assay mark on an example that may predate 1948 can help date the case; it remains separate from the watch’s assembly or delivery.

The 3525 records show why dates should stay attached to individual watches. Antiquorum dates the [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-163-311 Nutting case 185,983] to 1941; Sotheby’s dates [https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2019/important-watches-n10082/lot.183.html case 186,144] to circa 1942 and [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2020/important-watches-part-ii/monoblocco-ref-3525-stainless-steel-chronograph case 372,822] to circa 1945. Sotheby’s describes an earlier group with the reference and serial on the outer caseback, and a later group with the reference inside and the serial between the lugs. These are auction-house estimates, not a Rolex production ledger. A serial alone does not establish when a watch was made or delivered.

Auction catalogues date ref. [[Reference:6034|6034]] examples across several case-number groups: 692'692 to circa 1950, 847'636 to 1951, 847'427 to circa 1952, 847'307 and 907'407 to circa 1953, 944'123 to 1954, and 92'379 and 97'436 to circa 1955. Another Christie's example, case 907'744, is dated circa 1952. These are catalogue estimates for individual watches, not a serial-year chart; they do not establish a production endpoint. Phillips estimates a roughly five-year run from 1950, while Christie's and Antiquorum publish broader dates into the early 1960s. [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-6034-oyster-chronograph-lot-321-669?page=1&q=Rolex Antiquorum, case 692'692]; [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5643962 Christie's, case 847'636]; [https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2009/important-watches-n08543/lot.116.html Sotheby's, case 847'427]; [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080123/99 Phillips, case 847'307]; [https://www.christies.com/lot/lot-6212811 Christie's, case 907'407]; [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-144-30 Antiquorum, case 944'123]; [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/210525 Phillips, case 92'379]; [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-6034-oyster-chronograph-lot-386-573 Antiquorum, case 97'436]; [https://www.christies.com/lot/rolex-a-fine-and-rare-stainless-steel-6200134/?intObjectID=6200134&lid=3 Christie's, case 907'744].

Auction estimates for [[Reference:3372|ref. 3372]] also conflict. Sotheby's dates case 43,903 to circa 1938 ([2026 lot 2341](https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2026/important-watches-4-2/oyster-perpetual-bubbleback-reference-3372-a-pink?locale=en)); Antiquorum dates case 481,380 to 1938 ([2017 lot 90](https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-3372-bubble-back-lot-310-90)); Phillips assigns circa 1945 to case 301,684 ([2015 lot 206](https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080215/206)); and Antiquorum dates case 424,291 to circa 1959 ([2024 lot 75](https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-3372-oyster-perpetual-bubble-back-lot-367-75)). These dates do not form a reliable serial sequence and do not establish the factory production span.

Auction catalogues give case numbers [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-222-285 612627], [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-204100 612848], [https://www.arsvalue.com/it/lotti/114560/rolex-ref-5031rolex-oyster-perpetual-red-date-just-ref-5031-del 612967], 612990, [https://auctions.tennants.co.uk/auction/lot/lot-2164---rolex-a-steel-and-gold-automatic-calendar/?lot=2569007&sd=1 613514], [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2020/watches-weekly-geneva-17/rolex-bubbleback-oyster-perpetual-ref-5031 613853] and [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2022/fine-watches-8/reference-5031-oyster-perpetual-a-pink-gold-and 613876] for individual [[Reference:5031|ref. 5031]] watches. Their dating differs: Bonhams, Sotheby’s and Tennants call examples circa 1948, while Antiquorum dates its 1999 lot to the 1950s and its 1995 lot to the 1960s. Those case numbers cluster, but the catalogues do not establish a production range. Bonhams listed case 612990 twice in 2025 with the same movement number 37574; it is one watch, not two serial anchors.

Phillips dates ref. [[Reference:6031|6031]] case [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/160689 683,837] to circa 1949; Sotheby’s dates case [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2025/fine-watches-pf2570/oyster-perpetual-reference-6031-montre-bracelet-en?locale=en 693,873] to circa 1950. These two auction-house date estimates do not establish a 6031 serial range or year-by-year sequence.

For [[Reference:6075|ref. 6075]], Antiquorum dates cases 685,082 and 714,441 to 1950, while Phillips dates case 714,440 to 1951. Antiquorum gives circa 1951 for case 715,511; Cambi Aste assigns circa 1961 to an incomplete case number 715.xxx. The catalogues conflict, and their estimates do not establish a serial range or prove a production end year. Compare the engraved case number, movement and any independent date evidence on the individual watch. [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-108-122 Antiquorum 2006, lot 122]; [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-6075-lot-283-107 Antiquorum 2014, lot 107]; [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080515/284 Phillips 2015, lot 284]; [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-6075-oyster-perpetual-officially-certified-chronometer-lot-351-147 Antiquorum 2022, lot 147]; [https://www.cambiaste.com/uploads/auctions/807-cambi_orologi_719_2022_05_eb.pdf Cambi Aste 2022, lot 96].

For [[Reference:6074|ref. 6074]], Antiquorum and John Goldberger date a two-piece platinum commission to 1950, but publish no case serials for those watches. Antiquorum's 1990 gold lot gives a 1950s estimate without a case number; its 2025 gold lot says the case number was no longer visible. Henrik Korpela's restored gold example had 6030 and 6031 scratched out on the caseback before 6074 was stamped over them. These records do not form a serial sequence. Compare the individual case and movement marks; the 1-50 code in Goldberger's image dates the bracelet component. [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-146-67 Antiquorum 1992]; [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-155-397 Antiquorum 1990]; [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-6074-datejust-ovettone-lot-381-223 Antiquorum 2025]; [https://watchesbysjx.com/2015/05/explained-restoring-a-1950s-rolex-oyster-perpetual-ref-6074.html Korpela, 2015].

=== Oyster Perpetual 1005 dated examples ===

Auction catalogues date 1005 case 826,301 to 1962 or circa 1963; the two records appear to describe the same pink-gold watch. Other dated examples include cases 903,017 and 926,416 (circa 1962–63), 1,050,796 (circa 1964), 1,176,167 (inside caseback code II.65), 1,177,843 (circa 1966), 1,586,108 (catalogued 1971, with a guarantee booklet dated 22 December 1971), 1,801,509 (circa 1968), 3,021,909 (circa 1971), 3,367,203 (London import mark dated 1973), and 3,921,444 (circa 1974). Sotheby’s catalogued case 7,126,615 as circa 1995, but that date conflicts with the serial sequence and should not be treated as a secure production date. These are isolated auction and component dates, not a serial-year chart or production range.

=== Oyster Perpetual 1003 dated examples ===

Auction catalogues date 1003 case 512,833 to circa 1960 and case 573,835 to circa 1960; the certificate accompanying case 573,835 is dated 22 December 1960, which dates the certificate rather than proving the case’s production date. Other catalogued examples include case 531,734 (circa 1966), case 1,197,501 (1964), case 3,044,042 (1972), case 3,960,865 (circa 1975), and case 5,426,177 (1977). A Glasgow import mark dates a 9K case to 1961, while a 1966 receipt accompanies a separate 9ct example. These individual records do not form a serial-year chart or establish production limits. [https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2014/important-watches-ge1401/lot.216.html Sotheby’s, case 5,426,177]; [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-171-486 Antiquorum, case 3,044,042]; [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2021/fine-watches-3/oyster-perpetual-ref-1003-stainless-steel Sotheby’s, case 3,960,865].

=== Oyster Perpetual 1008 dated examples ===

Auction catalogues date ref. [[Reference:1008|1008]] case 666,184 to 1961, case 1,284,790 to 1965/66, and case 1,612,569 to circa 1967. Christie's records an inside-caseback stamp of IV.63 on another example. Antiquorum's 2022 and 2023 listings repeat case 1,612,569, so count it once. These are individual catalogue dates and a caseback stamp, not a serial-year chart. Compare the case, movement and date evidence on the watch itself. [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-261-9 Antiquorum 2012, lot 9]; [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-108-29 Antiquorum 2006, lot 29]; [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-1008-rolex-zephir-lot-355-458 Antiquorum 2022, lot 458]; [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-1008-rolex-zephir-lot-359-140 Antiquorum 2023, lot 140]; [https://www.christies.com/lot/lot-rolex-a-stainless-steel-and-gold-automatic-5008636/ Christie's, ref. 1008, lot 5008636].

=== Oyster Perpetual 1011 dated examples ===

Catalogue records attach dates to individual ref. 1011 cases: Antiquorum dates case 546423 to 1960; Finarte lists case 1,093,592 in a 2024 catalogue of a 1960s watch; and Waddington’s dates case 1,301,143 to circa 1965. These are case-number and catalogue-date pairings for separate watches, not a serial-year chart or production sequence. [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-108-45 Antiquorum, case 546423]; [https://www.finarte.it/asta/orologi-milano-2024-12-16/rolex-bombay-5590-1011-personalizzato-per-eaton-137265 Finarte, case 1,093,592]; [https://www.waddingtons.ca/?p=54274 Waddington’s, case 1,301,143].

=== Oyster Perpetual 1009 dated examples ===

Auction catalogues date case [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-108-107 1,738,626] to 1968, case [https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-32/lot-176 1,987,824] to 1969, and case [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/95640 2,489,934] to 1972. These are dates assigned to individual 1009s by their sale catalogues, not a serial-year chart. Compare the case number, movement, and any independent date evidence on each watch.

=== Oyster Perpetual Date 1500 dated examples ===

Auction catalogues associate ref. [[Reference:1500|1500]] case 885,460 with circa 1962; case 1,280,618 with manufacture in 1966; case 1,555,079 with circa 1967; case 2,925,857 with circa 1972; and case 6,435,758 with circa 1980. Antiquorum records case 1,940,862 as sold in May 1969; that is the sale date, not a stated manufacture date. These are lot-level dates, not a serial-year chart or production limits. Phillips labels 5,782,466 on another circa-1978 example as a movement number; it is not a case serial. [https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-41/lot-87 Monaco Legend, case 885,460]; [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-4982677 Christie’s, case 1,280,618]; [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-1500-oyster-perpetual-date-lot-338-234 Antiquorum, case 1,555,079]; [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-1500-oyster-perpetual-date-lot-372-294 Antiquorum, case 1,940,862]; [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-1500-oyster-perpetual-date-lot-355-461 Antiquorum, case 2,925,857]; [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/NY080021/4 Phillips, case 6,435,758]; [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/HK080123/909 Phillips, movement number 5,782,466].

=== Oyster Perpetual Date 1501 dated examples ===

Auction catalogues date ref. [[Reference:1501|1501]] case 761,220 to 1962; case 953,774 to 1963; case 1,263,879 to circa 1966; case 1,993,245 to 1968; and cases 2,321,357 and 2,447,009 to circa 1970. Dr. Crott dates 18K-gold case 3,381,308 to circa 1973. These are catalogue dates for individual watches, not a serial-year chart or production limits. Antiquorum lists case 2,171,365 as sold in July 1970 but gives no manufacture estimate. The 1963 Antiquorum lot sold in July 1964; its sale date is not the watch date. [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-1501-oyster-perpetual-date-lot-386-200 Antiquorum, case 761,220]; [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-247-67 Antiquorum, case 953,774]; [https://www.christies.com/lot/rolex-a-stainless-steel-automatic-wristwatch-with-5841774/?intObjectID=5841774&lid=1 Christie’s, case 1,263,879]; [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-1501-lot-294-60 Antiquorum, case 1,993,245]; [https://www.dorotheum.com/en/l/8534014/ Dorotheum, case 2,321,357]; [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/HK080122/892 Phillips, case 2,447,009]; [https://uhren-muser.de/epaper/catalogues/en/99/ Dr. Crott, case 3,381,308]; [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-1501-oyster-perpetual-date-lot-386-199 Antiquorum, case 2,171,365].

=== Oyster Perpetual Date 1503 dated examples ===

Auction catalogues date ref. [[Reference:1503|1503]] case 1,765,968 to circa 1968, case 2,326,051 to 1970, case 2,841,395 to circa 1971, case 5,004,120 to circa 1976, case 5,004,222 to circa 1977, and case 6,275,775 to circa 1980. These dates apply to individual catalogue examples, not a serial-year chart or production limits. Monaco re-offered case 6,275,775 in 2025; it is the same watch as the 2022 listing. [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/fine-watches-4/reference-1503-date-a-yellow-gold-automatic Sotheby’s, case 1,765,968]; [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/96638 Phillips, case 2,326,051]; [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2026/fine-watches-ge2611/datejust-reference-1503-a-yellow-gold-wristwatch Sotheby’s, case 2,841,395]; [https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/watches-online-new-york-edit/rolex-very-attractive-14k-gold-oyster-perpetual-date-blue-dial-14k-284/313970 Christie’s, case 5,004,120]; [https://jewelry.ha.com/itm/timepieces/wristwatch/rolex-ref-1503-vintage-14k-gold-oyster-perpetual-date-circa-1977/a/5081-60276.s Heritage, case 5,004,222]; [https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-28/lot-147 Monaco Legend, case 6,275,775].

=== Oyster Perpetual 6502 dated examples ===

Auction catalogues date cases 36809 and 36729 to the 1950s. Monaco Legend and Antiquorum list the same case 36675, with estimates of 1954 and circa 1958 and diameters of 34 and 35 mm. Monaco Legend identifies case 36701 as a 6502; Phillips calls it a 6603 and reports a 6502 stamp inside the back. The conflicting catalogue attributions leave that watch’s reference unresolved. Sotheby’s dates case 994893 to circa 1964, while the Pergola chart places its serial range in 1954. These are individual catalogue estimates; together they document a conflict, not a 6502 serial sequence or production span. [https://www.christies.com/lot/lot-874549 Christie’s, case 36809]; [https://www.artcurial.com/ventes/M1017/lots/14-a Artcurial, case 36729]; [https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/index.php/auction/the-july-online-sale-34/lot-71 Monaco Legend, case 36675]; [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-6502-oyster-perpetual-lot-381-225 Antiquorum, case 36675]; [https://www.invaluable.com/auction-lot/rolex-oyster-perpetual-ref-6502-honeycomb-dial-166-c-8e042b2aae Invaluable archive of Monaco Legend, case 36701]; [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/134192 Phillips, case 36701]; [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2020/watches-weekly-geneva-6/rolex-oyster-perpetual-ref-6502-yellow-gold Sotheby’s, case 994893]

=== Day-Date 6511 case examples ===

Auction catalogues date 6511 case 111,654 to the fourth quarter of 1955 and case 134,692 to 1955; Phillips lot 40 lists a guarantee dated 7 May 1957. Monaco Legend lists case 111,695 as 1955, although the lot prose says 1956, and gives 1956 for case 166,725. Dorotheum dates case 166736 to the model period 1956–57, but its 2017 listing dates case 166744 circa 1965. Pergola's unofficial chart puts 166744 in its 1956 band. The photograph offers no readable case number, leaving the catalogue estimate and chart in conflict. Treat these as lot-specific estimates; together they do not set a production range or serial-year chart. The two catalogues listing Cal. 1555 for cases 111,654 and 166736 conflict with six other located 6511 lots listing 1055. Each remains a catalogue attribution pending direct movement inspection. [https://www.dorotheum.com/en/l/10072651/ Dorotheum, lot 255]; [https://www.dorotheum.com/de/l/604595/ Dorotheum, case 166744]

=== Day-Date 6612 case examples ===

Auction catalogues date [https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-38/lot-67 platinum case 403,679] and [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080115/43 case 403,680] to 1958, [https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/index.php/auction/exclusive-timepieces-36/lot-26 white-gold case 394,866] to 1958, and [https://www.christies.com.cn/en/lot/lot-6590177 platinum case 382,921] to circa 1958. Bonhams dates a [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/20747/lot/353/ yellow-gold 6612/8] with serial 446*** to circa 1959. These are individual auction estimates, not a serial-number chronology; the clasp stamped 3.59 on case 403,680 and March 1959 clasp on the 446*** example date bracelets, not watch heads.

=== Day-Date 6612B case examples ===

Auction catalogues date yellow-gold case 384,933 to 1957; pink-gold case 395,916, white-gold case 394,866 and platinum case 403,679 to circa 1958; platinum case 382,921 to circa 1958; and platinum case 446,052 to circa 1959. These are catalogue estimates, not a factory serial chart or proven production bounds. Christie's Dubai gives 446,062 for the last example, but Phillips and Sotheby's both list 446,052 and the Dubai entry refers to those sales. Phillips and Christie's list a clasp stamp of 1.59 on the platinum bracelet; that dates the bracelet, not the watch head. [https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-38/lot-182 Monaco Legend, case 384,933]; [https://www.christies.com/lot/lot-5731660 Christie's and https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-6612b-day-date-lot-370-143?page=8 Antiquorum, case 395,916]; [https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/index.php/auction/exclusive-timepieces-36/lot-26 Monaco Legend, case 394,866]; [https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-38/lot-67 Monaco Legend, case 403,679]; [https://www.christies.com.cn/en/lot/lot-6590177 Christie's, case 382,921]; [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/151223 Phillips and https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2021/fine-watches-11/day-date-reference-6612b-a-platinum-and-diamond Sotheby's, case 446,052].

=== Day-Date 6611 case examples ===

Phillips dates yellow-gold case 214,124 to 1956 and white-gold 6611B case 401,546 to 1958. Antiquorum dates movement number 386,339 on a gold 6611B to about 1958. These catalogue dates fit the commonly published late-1950s sequence but do not form a factory serial chart. Two steel school-watch lots have no case number and give conflicting dates, 1954 and circa 1959; the 1963 engraving is a school dedication, not a case-production date. Compare each head and movement separately.

=== Glasgow and Edinburgh assay marks ===

British hallmarks can identify the assay office, metal standard, sponsor and assay year. The sponsor is the party responsible for submitting the item; the mark does not necessarily identify its manufacturer. Imported cases may carry different office marks from domestic work. Match the complete punch, including its shield and lettering, to the correct office and period.

For a Glasgow or Edinburgh mark, use that office's historical import-mark chart. Date-letter cycles and the dates on which letters changed varied between offices and periods. The letter records assay, which may precede assembly or retail sale. [https://www.vintagewatchstraps.com/importmarks.php David Boettcher's guide] explains these distinctions. Opening a case requires suitable tools and care.

Antiquorum’s 2010 description of [[Reference:971|Prince 971]] case 70,064 is inconsistent about the assay office. The lot introduction says English import hallmark dated 1928; the detailed case description says “Glasgow import stamp.” The catalogue does not resolve that discrepancy. Its date is an assay reading, not a movement-production date. Bonhams’ 2018 lot 37 separately identifies case 0329 with a Glasgow 1929 mark and movement 70,668. [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-226-401 Antiquorum lot 401]; [https://www.bonhams.com/auctions/24629/lot/37/ Bonhams lot 37].

<span id="Why_the_serial-system_year-letter_chart_fails_for_the_Prince_era"></span>
=== Assay letters and case-serial prefixes ===

The R, L and later case-serial prefixes belong to a system introduced around 1987. They cannot decode assay letters on 1920s–1950s Prince cases. Those letters belong to the assay office's own sequence.

<span id="Prince_case-number_anchors"></span>
=== Prince dating examples ===

The table lists catalogue observations on Prince watches and related Eaton presentation pieces. “c.” means an approximate date assigned by the auctioneer. Hallmark readings and presentation inscriptions are identified separately. These examples do not define the start or end of a reference's production. The London import mark reported for ref. 1880 is distinct from the Glasgow and Edinburgh sequences; Christie’s dates that case mark to 1932, which dates assay rather than manufacture or sale. [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-4642619 Christie’s, sale 5865, lot 410]

{| class="wikitable" style="width:100%;"
|-
! Reference !! Case number !! Material / configuration !! Hallmark / dating !! Source
|-
| [[Reference:971|971]] || 70,064 || sterling silver || Antiquorum gives conflicting English-import / Glasgow readings; 1928 || [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-226-401 Antiquorum New York, March 2010, lot 401]
|-
| [[Reference:971|971]] || 0329 || sterling silver; movement 70,668 || Glasgow 1929 || [https://www.bonhams.com/auctions/24629/lot/37/ Bonhams London, 2018, lot 37]
|-
| [[Reference:971U|971U]] || 67,940 || 18K gold || Glasgow import mark dated 1929 (Christie’s catalogue report) || [https://www.christies.com/lot/lot-5257604 Christie’s]
|-
| [[Reference:971|971]] || 71,969 || sterling silver; movement 7,749 || c.1930, Sotheby’s catalogue date || [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2019/watches-online-7/rolex-prince-reference-971-a-silver-wristwatch Sotheby’s, 2019, lot 8157]
|-
| [[Reference:971U|971U]] || 02933 || silver || Glasgow import mark dated 1930 (Christie’s catalogue report) || [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-204130 Christie’s, lot 309]
|-
| [[Reference:971U|971U]] || 05828 || silver || Glasgow import mark dated 1930 (Christie’s catalogue report) || [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-1473055 Christie’s, lot 271]
|-
| [[Reference:971U|971U]] || 02506 || silver || Glasgow import mark dated 1930 (Christie’s catalogue report) || [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-1369394 Christie’s, lot 154]
|-
| [[Reference:971U|971U]] || 73,276 || stainless steel + 9K yellow gold || Sotheby’s catalogue estimate c.1939 || [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2022/important-watches-online/prince-reference-971u-a-stainless-steel-and-yellow Sotheby’s, lot 619]
|-
| [[Reference:971|971]] || 011,651 || steel + Beyer-signed dial || c.1928 || Phillips Geneva X CH080319/17
|-
| [[Reference:971|971]] || 6,013 || platinum, Cal. 300 7½′′′ 18-jewel || c.1935 || Phillips Geneva V/X/XIV
|-
| [[Reference:971|971]] || 6,047 || platinum || 1935 || Phillips 2015 Watch Auction One lot 210
|-
| [[Reference:971|971]] || 6,077 || platinum || c.1930 || Antiquorum 2013
|-
| [[Reference:971|971]] || 1,472 || Eaton 1/4 Century Club dial; catalogue descriptions of the metals differ || presentation inscription 1907–1932 || [https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-jewels-14/lot-156 Monaco Legend, July 2019, lot 156]
|-
| [[Reference:971|971]] || 60,206 || 9K two-colour gold || c.1934 || Antiquorum 2020 lot 235
|-
| [[Reference:971|971]] || 65,196 || 18K striped two-colour gold (971A) || c.1930 || Antiquorum 2015 lot 275
|-
| [[Reference:971|971]] || 65,377 || 18K striped two-colour gold (971A) || c.1932 || Antiquorum 2006 lot 316
|-
| [[Reference:971|971]] || 68,305 || 9K two-colour gold (971A) || c.1932 || Bonhams NY 2017 lot 133
|-
| [[Reference:971|971]] || 68,591 || 18K striped two-colour gold (971A) || c.1938 || Bonhams HK 2023 lot 644
|-
| [[Reference:1490|1490]] || 13,009 || 18K yellow gold || Glasgow 1933 || Phillips NY 2023 NY080223/92
|-
| [[Reference:1490|1490]] || 17,365 || steel + pink gold || Cal. T.S. 300 Ultra Prima, 1935 || Antiquorum May 2006 Mondani lot 46
|-
| [[Reference:1490|1490]] || 38,525 || steel + Bucherer-signed dial || c.1937 || Sotheby's Watches Online July 2019 lot 13
|-
| [[Reference:1490|1490]] || 58,115 || 18K (group lot with 1862) || c.1930 || Christie's Geneva 1395 lot 307
|-
| [[Reference:1490|1490]] || 73,910 || steel || c.1936 || Bonhams Nov 2023 lot 50
|-
| [[Reference:1862|1862]] || 1,608 || 9K || Glasgow 1934 || Antiquorum 249-98
|-
| [[Reference:1862|1862]] || 16,237 || 9K Glasgow + Cal. 527 || Glasgow 1934 || Christie's online lot 31 (sale 13523)
|-
| [[Reference:1862|1862]] || 16,663 || 18K (group lot with 1490) || c.1938 || Christie's Geneva 1395 lot 307
|-
| [[Reference:1862|1862]] || 280,124 || 18K yellow (1862A variant) || c.1930 || Sotheby's NY 2018 n09911 lot 53

|-
| [[Reference:1880|1880]] || 032’871 || stainless steel || c.1935, as catalogued by Sotheby’s || [https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2019/important-watches-ge1901/lot.166.html Sotheby’s Geneva, May 2019, lot 166]
|-
| [[Reference:1880|1880]] || 8860 || 9ct gold; Prince Elegant, retailed by C. Bucherer || London import mark dated 1932 by Christie’s (assay/import date) || [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-4642619 Christie’s, sale 5865, lot 410]
|-
| [[Reference:1880|1880]] || 012043; caseback also marked 1880 || steel with yellow-metal stepped sides and lugs || c.1930, as catalogued by Sworder || [https://www.sworder.co.uk/auction/lot/lot-339---a-gentlemens-stainless-steel-rolex-mechanical-strap-watch-c1930/?lot=509695&sd=1 Sworder, November 2024, lot 339]
|-
| [[Reference:1491|1491]] || not given || 18K yellow gold jump-hour Brancard || Glasgow Import mark 1930 || Bonhams sale 29152 lot 23
|-
| [[Reference:1491|1491]] || 1,578 || 9K white gold, Bucherer-retailed || invoice dated 1945 || [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-203-692 Antiquorum, March 2008, lot 692]
|-
| [[Reference:1491|1491]] || F220 || two-colour 18K gold, jumping-hour display || c.1930 || Bonhams, sale 29152, lot 6
|-
| [[Reference:1645|1645]] || 1,003,902 || 9ct gold, Asprey-signed dial || Glasgow gold import mark dated 1932 (Tennants catalogue report) || [https://auctions.tennants.co.uk/auction/lot/lot-2170---rolex-a-rare-9-carat-gold-pocket-watch/?lot=2441604&sd=1 Tennants, 11 November 2023, lot 2170]
|-
| [[Reference:1527|1527]] || 189 || 18K white + yellow gold stepped Railway, bamboo-style bracelet || dated 1931 || Antiquorum May 2006 Mondani lot 108/33
|-
| [[Reference:1527|1527]] || 6,920 || white and pink gold; catalogued as 1527 M || c.1930s || Drouot, lot 182
|-
| [[Reference:1527|1527]] || 6936 || 18K white + pink stepped || Glasgow 1931 || EveryWatch lot 378
|-
| [[Reference:1527|1527]] || not given || steel + gold-filled stepped Railway || 1940s || Bonhams NY 2006 sale 15217 lot 9
|-
| [[Reference:1768|1768]] || 01028 || “Rolésium”; Extra Prima movement 74822 || c.1927, as dated by Rossini || [https://www.rossini.fr/lot/131847/19633433 Rossini, lot 346]
|-
| [[Reference:1768|1768]] || 011069 || Stainless steel; 43 x 20 mm; nickel 17-jewel movement || c.1940, as dated by Christie’s || [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-4642354 Christie’s]
|-
| [[Reference:1768|1768]] || 9906 || 14K gold; two-tone dial; caseback dedication || 1930s, as catalogued by Christie’s || [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5674614 Christie’s, group lot]
|-
| [[Reference:1768|1768]] || 010271 || “rolesium,” two-tone dial || c.1930, as dated by Aguttes || [https://www.aguttes.com/lot/montres-de-collection-69808257-ca1b-404b-ba18-d421d9badcaf/rolex-64c89c55-4320-40cc-84b9-bd7f8554c1ca Aguttes, lot 12]
|-
| [[Reference:1768|1768]] || 010345 || two-colour case; fixed bar lugs || c.1930, as dated by Kaplans || [https://www.kaplans.se/en/auktioner/3448/vara/1474228 Kaplans, Watches 59]
|-
| [[Reference:1768|1768]] || 010353 || steel; caseback stamped Rolesium Registered Inalterable || c.1930s, as dated by Antiquorum || [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-1768-prince-lot-361-47 Antiquorum, June 2023, lot 47]
|-
| [[Reference:1768|1768]] || 12'672 || steel and rose gold; stepped case || 1930s, as dated by Pandolfini || [https://www.pandolfini.it/uploads/auctions/20141125.pdf Pandolfini, lot 406]
|-
| [[Reference:1768|1768]] || 14069 || steel and pink gold; pink two-tone dial || 1930s, as dated by Monaco Legend || [https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/index.php/auction/exclusive-timepieces-15/lot-119 Monaco Legend, lot 119]
|-
| [[Reference:1768|1768]] || 019784 / 019794 || steel; Antiquorum lists a 15-jewel T.S. 300 for 019784; Muser’s photograph of 019794 shows an Extra Prima marked 17 Rubies || Antiquorum dates 019784 to 1938 and lists a timing certificate; Muser dates 019794 circa 1930. Similar watch-and-box photographs suggest a possible repeat listing, but the case numbers differ by one digit. || [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-1768-lot-307-118 Antiquorum, May 2017, lot 118]; [https://uhren-muser.de/en/archives/108/57379 Uhren-Muser, May 2023, lot 266]
|-
| [[Reference:3361|3361]] || 899,568 || 18K yellow gold Aerodynamic || dated 1952 (Mondani Collection) || [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-108-210 Antiquorum, May 2006, lot 210]
|-
| [[Reference:3361|3361]] || 899,677 || 18K pink gold Aerodynamic with monogrammed escutcheon || dated 1952 || [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-108-209 Antiquorum, May 2006, lot 209]
|-
| 3362 || 62,482 || 14K pink gold || c.1935, as dated by Antiquorum || Antiquorum, May 2015, sale 291, lot 109
|-
| [[Reference:3937|3937]] || 64,190 || 14K yellow gold Rams Horn || 1938 || Bonhams 2023 lot 50
|-
| [[Reference:3937|3937]] || not given || 14K yellow gold, Eaton 1/4 Century Club || Garbett presentation inscription 1926–1951 || Sotheby's NY 2020 lot 73
|-
| 6222 (Eaton presentation) || not given || automatic Oyster || presentation inscription 1929–1954 || Antiquorum Hong Kong 2005, sale 86, lot 19
|}

Christie’s gives “No. 015759 1880” on a steel caseback and “no. 1880 8829” in the title of a pink-gold watch. The title does not identify 1880 as a reference. Christie’s dates the latter watch’s Glasgow import mark to 1932.

These examples use several case-number ranges across different materials and references. A high number does not establish a later production date across the whole Prince family. Antiquorum dates the two 3361 cases numbered 899,568 and 899,677 to 1952; the presentation dates on Eaton watches record later events in their ownership. None of these observations establishes a family-wide production endpoint.

=== Caseback engraving conventions ===

Keep case and reference stamps separate from personal inscriptions. An engraved name or service anniversary records a presentation or ownership claim. It cannot establish the date of the case, and hand engraving alone does not establish a replacement. Monaco Legend's 971, case 1,472, bears an Eaton service inscription ending in 1932.

<span id="Vintage_Submariner_/_Explorer_/_GMT_case-number_anchors"></span>
=== Padellone 8171: anomalous numbers and conflicting dates ===

Reference [[Reference:8171|8171]] has a shallow case number and coronet engraved on the outside of its snap-on back. Wear and polishing can reduce their legibility. The case number, movement number and a dated certificate should be recorded separately. [https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/in-depth-rolex-8171-padellone-moonphase Benjamin Clymer, illustrated 8171 study]

Phillips catalogued steel case 1977074 as circa 1950 despite its unusually high number. Its essay and SJX discuss later manufacture or assembly, but provide no factory record resolving the discrepancy. A general serial chart cannot settle the date of this particular watch. [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080219/175 Phillips Geneva X, lot 175]; [https://watchesbysjx.com/2019/10/rolex-8171-padellone-steel.html SJX, 2019]

Sotheby’s dates case 686356 to circa 1963 while describing early-1950s production in the same entry. That conflict does not establish a 1963 production extension. Pink-gold case 667005 has a more useful document: Phillips lists an accompanying timing certificate dated 13 April 1950. The certificate dates that event, not necessarily casing or retail sale. [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2020/important-watches-2/rolex-padellone-reference-8171-a-stainless-steel Sotheby’s, lot 2143]; [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/214766 Phillips Geneva XXI, lot 72]

== Submariner, Explorer and GMT dating examples ==

The following table compares catalogue dates with case numbers on selected Submariner, Explorer and GMT watches. Dates without an identified hallmark, stamp or document are the named source's estimates. A cluster of nearby numbers does not establish a production total or guarantee dating to within a year or two.

{| class="wikitable" style="width:100%;"
|-
! Reference !! Case number !! Catalogue configuration !! Date or dated mark reported by source !! Source
|-
| [[Reference:6204|6204]] (Submariner) || 949,136 || honeycomb dial || 1953 || Phillips Geneva XII 2020 lot 177
|-
| [[Reference:6204|6204]] || 988,613 || gilt, US Navy provenance || c.1953–54 || Sotheby's 2018 lot 250
|-
| [[Reference:6204|6204]] || 988,773 || Sub-Aqua, end-link 65 || 1954 || Phillips Geneva Watch Auction TWO 2015 lot 292
|-
| [[Reference:6204|6204]] || 988,923 || pencil hands, gilt || c.1954, clasp 2.53 || Phillips NY Watch Auction 2021 lot 79
|-
| [[Reference:6204|6204]] || 988,929 || Sub-Aqua tropical || 1954 || Antiquorum Geneva 2013 lot 577
|-
| [[Reference:6204|6204]] || 42,439 || Sub-Aqua dial; catalogued as a prototype || 1954 || Monaco Legend 2019 lot 69
|-
| [[Reference:6205|6205]] (Submariner) || 21,354 || pencil hands, no-Submariner dial, riveted Oyster end-link 65 || c.1954, Series 1 || Phillips Game Changers NY 2019 lot 54
|-
| [[Reference:6205|6205]] || 21,442 || Mercedes hands, gilt gloss, stretch riveted bracelet || c.1954–55 || Sotheby's Fine Watches 2022 lot 13
|-
| [[Reference:6205|6205]] || 21,644 || re-lumed reprinted no-Submariner dial || 1954–55 || Antiquorum Geneva 2025 lot 377-180
|-
| [[Reference:6205|6205]] || 85,972 || Mercedes, gilt no depth (Series 2) || 1955 || Sotheby's Important Watches NY 2019 lot 178
|-
| [[Reference:6205|6205]] || 86,033 || Atelier de Restauration 2023 restoration || 1955 || Sotheby's Important Watches II 2025 lot 336
|-
| [[Reference:6200|6200]] (Submariner) || 320,xxx–322,xxx || Big Crown 8mm Brevet, A296, Explorer or red depth || 1954–56 || Nicholas Foulkes, ''Oyster Perpetual Submariner'' (Wallpaper / ACC Art Books, 2024)
|-
| [[Reference:6536-1|6536/1]] (Submariner) || 112,256 || caseback stamped "4 55", Jubilee bracelet stamped 1960 || 1955 || Sotheby's 2021 lot 35
|-
| [[Reference:6536-1|6536/1]] || 112,341 || Red Depth, IV.55 caseback || 1955 || Bonhams Dec 2021 lot 36
|-
| [[Reference:6536-1|6536/1]] || 155,502 || caseback stamped II.56, on 7206 rivet bracelet || 1956 || Phillips Geneva V 2017 lot 102
|-
| [[Reference:6536-1|6536/1]] || 229,640 || I.57 caseback || 1957 || Sotheby's 2018 lot 215
|-
| [[Reference:6536|6536]] (parent) || 306,706 || gloss black gilt, red triangle bezel || March 1957 || Bonhams London 2012 lot 116
|-
| [[Reference:6536-1|6536/1]] || 306,989 || III.57 caseback, no-hash red triangle, glossy gilt || 1957 || Sotheby's NY 2018 lot 252
|-
| [[Reference:6536|6536]] || 399,228 || brown tropical dial || c.1959 || Sotheby's London 2019 lot 121
|-
| [[Reference:6538|6538]] (Submariner) || 140,300–140,500 (Series 1) || case-number band proposed by Blackbird || c.1956 || Blackbird Biebuyck (2019)
|-
| [[Reference:6538|6538]] || 158,100–158,400 (Series 2) || four-line OCC dial concentration || c.1957–58 || Blackbird Biebuyck (2019)
|-
| [[Reference:6538|6538]] || 307,100–307,600 (Series 3) || two-line gilt || 1958 || Blackbird Biebuyck (2019)
|-
| [[Reference:6538|6538]] || 426,000–449,300 (Series 4) || fourth group in Blackbird's classification || late 1958 / 1959 || Blackbird; Sotheby's Olmsted 2024 lot 170 case 449,004
|-
| [[Reference:5510|5510]] (Submariner big crown) || 362,153 || Explorer dial, fixed bars; attributed to Royal Australian Navy use || 1958 || Sotheby's Important Watches 2023 lot 107
|-
| [[Reference:5510|5510]] || 362,187 || reprinted Explorer dial; attributed to Royal Australian Navy use || 1958 || Antiquorum Monaco 2018 lot 314-248
|-
| [[Reference:5510|5510]] || 362,252 || privately purchased watch used by a Royal Navy diver; later 93150/580 bracelet || Bonhams dates manufacture and purchase to 1958; caseback 1.1958 || [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/16805/lot/140/ Bonhams, June 2009, lot 140]
|-
| [[Reference:5508|5508]] (Submariner small crown) || 361,650 || black gilt, red triangle insert || 1958 || Phillips Geneva NINE 2019 lot 213
|-
| [[Reference:5508|5508]] || 400,505 || tropical dial, 1960 papers || 1958 || Sotheby's Fine Watches 2023 lot 40
|-
| [[Reference:5508|5508]] || 489,831 || black dial || 1959 || Sotheby's Watches Online 2020
|-
| [[Reference:5508|5508]] || 490,575 || faded bezel insert, rivet bracelet '63 || 1958 || Antiquorum Geneva 2020 lot 333-422
|-
| [[Reference:5508|5508]] || 762,896 || exclamation gilt, II.62 caseback, 7206/64 bracelet || 1962 || Phillips Hong Kong SPORTS 2019 lot 881
|-
| [[Reference:5508|5508]] || 764,524 || exclamation, 6636 clasp 4/64 || 1962 || Phillips Geneva XV 2022 lot 160
|-
| [[Reference:6098|6098]] (Pre-Explorer / Oyster Perpetual) || 912,378 || steel + Sesto Continente "Super Oyster" provenance, IV.52 caseback || caseback IV.52; source dates the watch to 1952 || Vailati 1953 letter to Rolex Archives (Perezcope)
|-
| [[Reference:6150|6150]] (Pre-Explorer) || 931,134 || H.S.10 CD Royal Navy with crow's foot || c.1953 || Sotheby's Fine Watches 2025 L25713
|-
| [[Reference:6150|6150]] || 944,811 || H.S.10 CD, Burford matte-black Swiss T Precision printing, MOD broad-arrow || February 1953 || Bonhams 18849/181
|-
| [[Reference:6150|6150]] || 944,925 || "Oyster Perpetual Precision" dial || 1953 || Antiquorum Geneva 2022 lot 349-152
|-
| [[Reference:6150|6150]] || 945,021 || "KANGCHENJUNGA 1955 G.C BAND" caseback engraving || 1953 case, 1955 expedition gift || Phillips Geneva Watch Auction SIX 2017 lot 244
|-
| [[Reference:6150|6150]] || 945,096 || A296 18j, Oyster expandable bracelet || c.1953 || Sotheby's 2022 / 2024 (same example reoffered)
|-
| [[Reference:6350|6350]] || 955,761 || Douglas Prior 1956 Royal Society Antarctic Expedition, Cal. 775 service replacement || 1953 case || Antiquorum Geneva 2018 lot 317-570
|-
| [[Reference:5513|5513]] (Submariner, no-date) || 765,450 || gloss black "exclamation" Explorer dial, cal. 1530; riveted Oyster 7206 / 80 end-links, clasp 4.62 || c.1962 (I.62) || Phillips Geneva EIGHT lot 23
|-
| [[Reference:5513|5513]] || 979,313 || gilt / gloss underline Explorer dial; folded Oyster 9315 / 580 end-links || c.1963 || Phillips Geneva XIV lot 153
|-
| [[Reference:5513|5513]] || 991,837 || underline double-Swiss gilt dial; Oyster 6636, clasp dated Q1 1964 || 1963 (III.63) || Phillips Geneva THREE lot 106
|-
| [[Reference:5513|5513]] || 1,023,362 || gloss Explorer (3-6-9) dial, Garrard guarantee 23 March 1965; Jubilee bracelet || c.1964 || Sotheby's Important Watches 2020 lot 377
|-
| [[Reference:5513|5513]] || 6,2XX,XXX || Mark III "maxi" dial, cal. 1520; 93150 Oyster, service-replacement clasp S6 || c.1979 || Bonhams Watches and Wristwatches 2019 lot 103
|-
| [[Reference:5513|5513]] (COMEX) || 2,833,552 || helium escape valve; COMEX 24 || 1970 || [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-144-323 Antiquorum Geneva, November 2006, lot 323]
|-
| [[Reference:5514|5514]] || 3,804,841 || helium escape valve; dial without COMEX logo || 1972 || Antiquorum New York, 2009, sale 223, lot 373
|-
| [[Reference:5514|5514]] || 4,089,919 || COMEX 377, matte black, 9315 bracelet, Henry Hudson letter || 1975 || Phillips NY Watch Auction SIX 2022 lot 153
|-
| [[Reference:5514|5514]] || 4,155,901 || COMEX 446; caseback also engraved 68504-Ci, attributed to the Argentine Navy by Phillips || 1974 || [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/90836 Phillips Geneva TWO, 2015, lot 145]
|-
| [[Reference:5514|5514]] || 5,230,258 || COMEX 878, "Big Numbers" wrap-around caseback || 1977 || Antiquorum Monaco 2025 lot 383-172
|-
| [[Reference:5517|5517]] (MilSub, Royal Navy / Army) || around 3,926,000 || 5513-only and 5513/5517 double-reference; issue years 77/79 || 1972–1975 || Phillips New York 2019 lot 28 case 3,926,768; Phillips HK 2017 lot 807 case 3,926,923; Antiquorum Monaco 2022 lot 77 case 3,926,842
|-
| [[Reference:5517|5517]] || around 5,339,000 || 5517-only between-lugs engraving, sword hands, full 60-min bezel; issue year 78 || 1977–1978 || Phillips Geneva XIV 2021 lot 152 case 5,339,827; Sotheby's 2023 lot 3 case 5,339,705 issue 853/78
|-
| [[Reference:1680|1680]] (Submariner Date, Red Sub) || 2,241,069 || Mark II "tropical" meters-first dial, red Submariner text; Oyster 9315, clasp 3.71 || c.1969 (III.69) || Phillips WINNING ICONS lot 4
|-
| [[Reference:1680|1680]] || 2,421,653 || Mark IV "tropical" Red Sub, feet-first "open 6s"; folded Oyster 9315, 280 end-links, clasp 4.70 || c.1970 || Phillips Geneva XIV lot 155
|-
| [[Reference:1680|1680]] || 2,631,521 || Mark IV red dial, cream indexes; Oyster 7836, clasp 3-69 || 1970 (I.70) || Phillips Geneva SEVEN lot 108
|-
| [[Reference:1680|1680]] || 3,184,430 || single-red Submariner dial; 93150 Oyster, clasp CL9 || c.1972 || Bonhams London Fine Watches 2025 lot 18
|-
| [[Reference:1680|1680]] || 3,740,344 || feet-first Red Sub dial, Tiffany & Co. retailer signature || c.1974 || Sotheby's Important Watches II 2024
|-
| [[Reference:1680|1680]] || 5,429,380 || ref. 1680/8 18k yellow gold, blue sunray dial; gold Oyster, clasp 3.71 || c.1978 || Phillips Geneva SEVEN lot 238
|-
| [[Reference:1680|1680]] || 6,1XX,XXX || Mark 1 "White Submariner" (closed 6s), white-text dial || c.1979 || Bonhams Hong Kong Watches 2022 lot 928
|-
| [[Reference:16808|16808]] (Submariner Date, 18k yellow gold) || 6,412,142 || black nipple dial; guarantee dated 10 August 1982 || c.1979 || [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6539583 Christie’s, lot 6539583]
|-
| [[Reference:16808|16808]] || 6,667,544 || calibre 3035; inside caseback stamped 16800; clasp stamped 92908, end links 46; later guarantee dated 9 September 1987 || c.1981 || [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/158613 Phillips, lot 15]
|-
| [[Reference:16808|16808]] || 7,538,212 || blue nipple dial; catalogue describes tropical brown change || 1982 || [https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-33/lot-220 Monaco Legend, lot 220]
|-
| [[Reference:16808|16808]] || 9,623,728 || blue nipple dial catalogued as tropical brown || c.1987 || [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2021/important-watches-6/nipple-dial-submariner-ref-16808-yellow-gold Sotheby’s, lot 8]
|-
| [[Reference:1675|1675]] (GMT-Master, red-and-blue bezel) || 1,004,133 || underline + double-Swiss gilt dial, pointed crown guards, cal. 1560; bracelet 6636 / 80 end-links, clasp 3.64 || c.1963 (IV.63) || Phillips "Rolex Milestones" lot 810
|-
| [[Reference:1675|1675]] || 1,323,448 || MK III late-gilt gloss dial (SWISS - T<25), cal. 1570; bracelet 7206 / 80 end-links, clasp 4.65 || c.1965 (IV.65) || Phillips Hong Kong Sessions Spring 2026 lot 8019
|-
| [[Reference:1675|1675]] || 1,686,416 || matte black dial, steel red-and-blue bezel, cal. 1570 || c.1967 || Sotheby's Watches 2020 lot 76
|-
| [[Reference:1675|1675]] || 1,796,673 || matte black "Fuchsia" insert, cal. 1570, movement D091203 with ROW marking; clasp 7-68 || 1967 (II.67) || Phillips New York Watch Auction SEVEN lot 25
|-
| [[Reference:1675|1675]] || 5,468,961 || 18k yellow gold, black dial, President bracelet, cal. 1570 || c.1978 || Sotheby's Watches 2020 lot 77
|-
| [[Reference:16750|16750]] (GMT-Master, first quickset) || 6,250,744 || matte black dial, black bezel insert (spare red-and-blue bezel included), cal. 3075; 93150 Oyster, clasp VC || c.1981 || Bonhams Knightsbridge 2024 lot 95
|-
| [[Reference:16750|16750]] || 7,625,315 || black dial, Omani police emblem, cal. 3075; 62510H Jubilee / 555 end-links, clasp G4 || c.1983 || Bonhams Fine Watches 2021 lot 68
|-
| [[Reference:16750|16750]] || 8,631,078 || glossy dial with cracked lacquer, cal. 3075; 78360 Oyster / 580 end-links, clasp I6 || c.1984 || Phillips Hong Kong EIGHT lot 1180
|-
| [[Reference:16550|16550]] || case 8399062 || black raised-marker “bicchierini” dial; cal. 3085 || 1983 (Christie’s catalogue date) || Christie’s lot 217; date and prototype story are the auction essay’s account
|-
| [[Reference:16550|16550]] || case 8584610 || black raised-marker dial; cal. 3085 || c.1984 || Antiquorum Geneva 2020 lot 250; catalogue calls it a prototype
|-
| [[Reference:16550|16550]] || serial B431181 || cream rail dial; cal. 3085 || c.1985 || Antiquorum Monaco 2017 lot 274
|-
| [[Reference:16550|16550]] || case 9376077 || black raised-marker dial; cal. 3085 || c.1986 || Antiquorum Hong Kong 2021 lot 244; catalogue calls it a prototype
|-
| [[Reference:16550|16550]] || case 9,673,878 || cream rail dial; cal. 3085 || c.1987 || Sotheby’s Watches Weekly 2020 lot 2
|-
| [[Reference:16550|16550]] || case R828043 || cream rail dial; cal. 3085 || c.1988 || Sotheby’s Geneva 2020 lot 652
|-
| [[Reference:16750|16750]] || R672618 || gloss black dial, R-prefix || c.1988 || Bonhams Hong Kong Watches 2019 lot 845
|-
| [[Reference:16760|16760]] (GMT-Master II) || 8,463,283 || red-and-black bezel, cal. 3085 27j || c.1984 || Sotheby's Important Watches HK 2021 lot 2004
|-
| [[Reference:16760|16760]] || R275863 || red-and-black bezel, mvt 1994435, 78790 service-replacement bracelet || c.1988 || Bonhams Knightsbridge 2023 lot 28031/167
|-
| [[Reference:16760|16760]] || R434190 || full set with Merksamer Jewelers guarantee, mvt 2102621 || c.1988 || Phillips Geneva Watch Auction X 2019 lot 149
|-
| [[Reference:16700|16700]] (GMT-Master) || R-serial || 1988 red-and-blue bezel, 78360 / RS11 clasp || 1988 || Bonhams 25956/4
|-
| [[Reference:16700|16700]] || T254282 || 1996 red-and-blue bezel delivered Dec 1996, full set with Beyer receipt || 1996 || Antiquorum Geneva 2020 lot 329-88
|-
| [[Reference:16700|16700]] || T848499 || c.1996 red-and-blue bezel, with extra black bezel, cal. 3175 || 1996 || Sotheby's Geneva Important Watches 2019 lot 10
|-
| [[Reference:16700|16700]] || W752611 || c.1995 red-and-blue bezel, faded bezel, tritium dial || 1995 || Sotheby's Fine Watches Online 2024 lot 417
|-
| [[Reference:16700|16700]] || U443556 || 1997 Chuck Yeager / Real McCoy's No. 14/50, Bell X-1 1947 caseback || 1997 || Bonhams 25232/969
|-
| [[Reference:16700|16700]] || U453541 || c.1997 Chuck Yeager / Real McCoy's No. 21/50 || 1997 || Phillips Hong Kong XI 2020 lot 862
|-
| [[Reference:16700|16700]] || A245609 || c.1999 Chuck Yeager / Real McCoy's || 1999 || Sotheby's Hong Kong 2019 lot 2023
|}

Record an inside-caseback stamp exactly as it appears. Roman numerals I–IV are often read as quarters, but the [https://rolexhaven.com/case-back-codes.html Caseback date codes guide describes a VI 1966 stamp] that does not fit that convention. A dated caseback is a component observation. Service replacements and exchanged backs can separate its date from the rest of the watch.

<span id="Cross-referencing_for_full_dating"></span>
== Comparing the components ==

An early serial range suggests a case date. Compare the bracelet reference, dial and [[Reference:Movements|movement]] separately. A [[Reference:Bracelets|clasp code]] dates the marked component, and a replacement clasp or bracelet does not change the case date.

A bracelet from the same period as the case may be period-correct without being original to that watch. Matching date estimates alone cannot establish original delivery.

== Per-reference serial detail ==

For the Oyster Perpetual ref. 1013, a Rago Arts & Auction Center lot dated serial 1,900,046 to 1969. Pergola's unofficial serial chart places that number in its 1968 range. These are conflicting estimates for one watch; neither establishes a production-year boundary for the reference. [https://www.ragoarts.com/auctions/2022/02/interesting-timepieces/508 Rago lot 508]; [https://rolexhaven.com/serial-numbers.html Pergola serial chart].

For Oyster Perpetual ref. [[Reference:1014|1014]], Bonhams dates a gold-plated steel watch with masked case number 769*** to circa 1951. Bellmans later records serial 769199 and dates that watch to 1962; the masked number could match, but the catalogues do not confirm one object. Pergola's chart places 769199 in its 1961 band. The photographed Dowling–Hess chart lists 710,776 in 1951 and 840,396 in 1952, but does not list 769199, so it gives no direct date for this case. These are lot and chart attributions, not a production span. [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/24231/lot/182/rolex-a-stainless-steel-and-gold-filled-automatic-sweep-seconds-wristwatch-ref-1014-circa-1951/ Bonhams lot 182]; [https://app.bellmans.co.uk/en/auction/nov-jewellery-2025-20-november-fine-jewellery-watches/1569-a-rolex-oyster-perpetual-chronometer-gold-capped-ref-1014-with-additional-9ct-gold-bracelet?page=12&listView=1 Bellmans lot 1569]; [https://rolexhaven.com/serial-numbers.html Pergola, Dowling and Hess chart photographs].

For Cellini-labelled ref. [[Reference:3735|3735]], Fortuna dates case serial 1,809,871 to circa 1968; the number falls within Pergola's 1968 band (1,720,977–1,938,064). This agreement applies to one case. Farsetti dates its example to 1967 but masks the serial as 15**30, leaving no complete number for comparison. See [https://www.invaluable.com/auction-lot/rolex-cellini-blue-dial-in-18k-white-gold-113-c-d154d64b31 Fortuna, lot 113] and [https://www.farsettiarte.it/uk/auction-0264-2/rolex-cellini-ref-3735-1967-107363 Farsetti, lot 107363].

Auction catalogues date ref. [[Reference:6609|6609]] cases 148,678 and 164,232 to circa 1956, cases 213,916 and 293,916 to circa 1956, cases 280,130, 280,389 and 284,956 to circa 1957, and cases 355,605, 382,912 and 388,431 to circa 1958. Phillips reports that the last of these has an inner caseback stamp reading II.1958. These are auction dates for individual watches, not factory production endpoints. Antiquorum dates case 447,272 to circa 1966, but the chart above places that number in Pergola’s 1959 band (437,255–530,168). Treat the catalogue date as a conflict; serial charts are estimates and do not date the 6609 production run.

=== Day-Date 1803 dating ===

For the [[Reference:1803|Day-Date 1803]], use the general serial chart as an approximate case-date guide. Published histories give overlapping ranges: Monochrome dates the reference to 1959–1976, while Fratello and Sotheby’s place its introduction around 1960 and its transition to the 18038 in 1978. The caliber changed from 1555 to 1556 around 1965; Fratello and Monochrome date hacking seconds to 1972. Treat the case and movement as separate dates; inspect the movement and service history to identify the fitted caliber and whether hacking is present. See [https://monochrome-watches.com/history-rolex-day-date-1956-present-president-watch-in-depth-review/ Monochrome], [https://www.fratellowatches.com/rolex-day-date-historical-overview-of-rolexs-flagship/ Fratello], and [https://www.sothebys.com/en/articles/the-rolex-day-date-a-complete-collectors-guide Sotheby’s].

The [[Reference:16520|Daytona 16520]] and individual manual-wind Daytona pages compare serials with dial and component changes. For long-running references such as the [[Reference:5500|Air-King 5500]], compare examples from the relevant period; one broad serial span cannot describe every configuration.

For ref. [[Reference:6240|6240]], auction catalogues associate case 1,205,996 with circa 1966, case 1,269,446 with 1965, cases 1,298,267 and 1,298,415 with circa 1965, cases 1,438,971 and 1,439,122 with circa 1966, case 1,439,224 with circa 1965, and case 1,659,454 with circa 1967. These are dates assigned to individual lots, not a serial-year chart or production boundaries. The catalogues also report 722, 72B, and 722-1 labels across overlapping dates; inspect the movement engraving. See [https://www.christies.com/lot/lot-6269161 Christie’s lot 6269161], [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/158342 Phillips lot 234], [https://www.christies.com/lot/lot-6212858 Christie’s lot 6212858], [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5808817 Christie’s lot 5808817], [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080016/10 Phillips lot 10], [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080318/32 Phillips lot 32], [https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2012/important-watches/lot.258.html Sotheby’s lot 258], and [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6424494 Christie’s lot 6424494].

For ref. [[Reference:3358|3358]], Antiquorum dates case 51,419 to 1942, while the chart transcribed above brackets that number between its 1935 and 1940 entries. Auctionata dates case 299,752 to circa 1940. These are catalogue attributions, not a production range; the serial chart is a reconstruction and its entries are selective. For an imported pre-1948 case, date a Glasgow or Edinburgh assay mark by that office's own sequence where one is present; use the serial chart as a cross-check. The two 3358 catalogues do not report assay marks.

For ref. [[Reference:3716|3716]], catalogue dates vary by example. Antiquorum dates its unnumbered 1989 lot to the 1950s. Christie’s dates case 54524 to circa 1945, while Monaco Legend dates the same case to 1942; the repeated case is one watch, not two. Other catalogues date examples to circa 1940 and circa 1943. Heritage records a December 1946 dedication on case 56420; that dates the inscription, not manufacture. Accademia Fine Art prints serial 46.742, but the published serial charts do not establish a year for it. Keep these dates with their individual catalogue records. [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-176-49 Antiquorum, 1989, lot 49]; [https://www.christies.com/lot/lot-rolex-an-18k-pink-gold-automatic-wristwatch-5008633/ Christie’s, case 54524]; [https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/writable/media/auction/0022-0000/catalogue_0022.pdf Monaco Legend, 2020, lot 125]; [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-209-284 Antiquorum, 2008, lot 284]; [https://jewelry.ha.com/itm/timepieces/wristwatch/rolex-rare-ref-3716-empire-yellow-gold-automatic-circa-1943/a/5202-60182.s Heritage, lot 60182]; [https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-30/lot-102 Monaco Legend, 2022, lot 102]; [https://jewelry.ha.com/itm/timepieces/wristwatch/rolex-rare-ref-3716-rose-gold-empire-oyster-perpetual-circa-1946/a/5309-54143.s Heritage, lot 54143]; [https://www.accademiafineart.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/montres_bijoux.pdf Accademia Fine Art, 2019, lot 25].

For ref. [[Reference:6106|6106]], auction catalogues associate case 802568 with circa 1952, 803115 with 1951, and 803117 and 803400 with 1952. See [https://auctions.burstowandhewett.co.uk/catalogue/lot/42cd8c41aebfa8aff879eaa499a6cb9f/c87e406e317d82bb64ed7e2ebc5bb166/luxury-watches-fine-jewellery-and-silver-lot-1000/ Burstow & Hewett lot 1000], [https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/index.php/auction/the-july-online-sale-34/lot-91 Monaco Legend lot 91], [https://auctions.tennants.co.uk/auction/lot/lot-2191---rolex-a-stainless-steel-automatic-centre-secon/?au=14200&ef=&et=&g=1&ic=False&lot=2510236&pn=2&pp=96&sd=1&so=0&st=&sto=0 Tennants lot 2191], and [https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/index.php/auction/the-july-online-sale-34/lot-47 Monaco Legend lot 47]. These are dates assigned to individual lots, not a serial-year chart or the production limits of the reference.

For ref. [[Reference:1038|1038]], auction catalogues date case 2,236,996 to circa 1969, case 2,287,904 to circa 1969, and case 2,430,165 to circa 1970. Gardiner Houlgate gives a partial case number, 2430xxx, for a watch it dates to circa 1970; it may be the same watch as Antiquorum's case 2,430,165. Gardiner Houlgate also records a “4 70” bracelet stamp, which dates the bracelet. See [https://ineichen.com/auctions/timed-123/14/ Ineichen lot 14], [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-1038-oyster-perpetual-zephyr-lot-316-295 Antiquorum Hong Kong lot 295], [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-1038-oyster-perpetual-zephyr-lot-381-224 Antiquorum Geneva lot 224], and [https://auctions.gardinerhoulgate.co.uk/catalogue/lot/03dc801ee229c37db51430f814d19b2e/63b778f7668dabe928d3800924a99077/watches-jewellery-lot-36/ Gardiner Houlgate lot 36]. These catalogue dates apply to individual lots; they do not establish a serial-year sequence or the reference's production limits.

A different reference stamped inside the caseback needs comparison with documented examples of that model. Assess the fit and markings together before accepting the back as original or period-correct.

Auction catalogues date ref. 18039 case 5,302,014 to circa 1977, case 5,507,421 to circa 1978, case 6,739,240 to 1981, and case 7,522,088 to 1983. The 5,507,421 watch has a warranty recording a German retail sale in November 1980; that date records the sale, not the case manufacture. See [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-18039-day-date-lot-324-171 Antiquorum lot 171 (2019)], [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-18039-day-date-lot-340-158 lot 158 (2021)], [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-18039-18038-lot-289-292 lot 292 (2015)], and [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-18039-day-date-stella-dial-white-gold-lot-383-147 lot 147 (2025)].

Auction catalogues also give date estimates for individual Day-Date 18049 cases: 5,724,546 (circa 1978), 6,041,581 (1979), 6,654,074 (circa 1981), 6,768,020 (circa 1980), 7,644,551 (circa 1983), 8,272,377 (circa 1984), and R509431 (circa 1988). These are catalogue associations between a case number and a lot date, not a serial-number year chart or proof of the reference’s production limits. Sources: [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2023/important-watches/reference-18049-day-date-a-white-gold-and-diamond Sotheby’s, ref. 18049 case 5,724,546]; [https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-28/lot-270 Monaco Legend, ref. 18049 case 6,041,581]; [https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/watches-online-dubai-edit/rolex-day-date-ref-18049-gold-diamond-set-automatic-wristwatch-khanjar-89/181697 Christie’s, ref. 18049 case 6,654,074]; [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-4814219 Christie’s, ref. 18049 case 6,768,020]; [https://www.sothebys.com/buy/ad86e74c-7057-4843-848c-3fbcabe7ff96/lots/30281a3f-52a9-45aa-9d06-c9a6baf6ddee Sotheby’s, ref. 18049 case 7,644,551]; [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-18049-day-date-lot-361-98 Antiquorum, ref. 18049 case 8,272,377]; [https://www.christies.com/lot/lot-6558374 Christie’s, ref. 18049 case R509431].

Auction catalogues date individual white-gold bark Day-Date 18079 cases as follows: case 5,257,008 (1978), case 6,043,469 (circa 1979), and case 7,294,504 (circa 1982). These are lot-level associations between a case number and an auction catalogue date. They do not establish a serial-number year chart or the reference's production boundaries. Sources: [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080115/56 Phillips, ref. 18079 case 5,257,008]; [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2025/important-watches-part-i-ge2504/day-date-reference-18079-a-white-gold-and Sotheby's, ref. 18079 case 6,043,469]; [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-18079-18000-day-date-lot-353-324 Antiquorum, ref. 18079 case 7,294,504].

Auction catalogues date individual yellow-gold Day-Date 18108 examples as follows: case 8'729'324 (circa 1985), case 8'885'500 (circa 1985), case 9'132'349 (circa 1985), case 9'115'123 (circa 1986), and case 9'342'167 (circa 1986). Sotheby's 2018 and 2021 records for case 9'342'167 describe the same watch and count once. These are catalogue dates for individual watches, not a serial-year chart or production limits. See [https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/watches-online-dubai-edit/rolex-gold-oyster-perpetual-day-date-diamond-bezel-onyx-dial-ref-18108-67/115982 Christie's, case 8'729'324], [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5841689 Christie's, case 8'885'500], [https://www.christies.com/lotfinder/Lot/rolex-a-rare-and-attractive-18k-gold-6042612-details.aspx Christie's, case 9'132'349], [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6202878 Christie's, case 9'115'123], and [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2021/important-watches/rolex-day-date-stella-reference-18108-a-yellow Sotheby's, case 9'342'167].

* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-108-88 Antiquorum, ref. 3353 case 146'243, dates it to 1940]
* [https://www.christies.com/lot/rolex-a-fine-rare-and-unusual-stainless-5892958/ Christie's, ref. 3353 case 146'243, dates it circa 1935 and identifies its 2006 Antiquorum appearance]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2026/important-watches/reference-3353-oyster-perpetual-a-stainless-steel Sotheby's, ref. 3353 case 146'235, circa 1935]
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080115/40 Phillips, 2015, ref. 6511 case 111,654, date and movement listing]
* [https://www.dorotheum.com/en/l/10072651/ Dorotheum, 2026, ref. 6511 case 166736, period estimate 1956–57]
* [https://www.dorotheum.com/de/l/604595/ Dorotheum, 2017, ref. 6511/8 case 166744, circa-1965 estimate]
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080115/41 Phillips, 2015, ref. 6511 case 134,692]
* [https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-31/lot-22 Monaco Legend, 2023, ref. 6511 case 111,695]
* [https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-35/lot-220 Monaco Legend, 2024, ref. 6511 case 166,725]

== Sources ==

* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2018/watches-online-july-n09896/lot.19.html Sotheby's, ref. 6609 case 213916, circa 1956]
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6067485 Christie's, ref. 6609 case 148678, circa 1956]
* [https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-25/lot-204 Monaco Legend, ref. 6609 case 164232, 1956]
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5892817 Christie's, ref. 6609 case 280130, circa 1957]
* [https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-36/lot-46 Monaco Legend, ref. 6609 case 280389, 1957]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2023/fine-watches-4/reference-6609-datejust-retailed-by-serpico-laino Sotheby's, ref. 6609 case 284956, circa 1957]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2022/fine-watches-13/reference-6609-thunderbird-a-yellow-gold-automatic Sotheby's, ref. 6609 case 293916, circa 1956]
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/138071 Phillips, ref. 6609 case 355605, circa 1958]
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080118/118 Phillips, ref. 6609 case 388431, inner caseback stamped II.1958]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-6609-datejust-thunderbird-lot-327-106 Antiquorum, ref. 6609 case 447272, catalogue date circa 1966]
* [https://auctions.burstowandhewett.co.uk/catalogue/lot/42cd8c41aebfa8aff879eaa499a6cb9f/c87e406e317d82bb64ed7e2ebc5bb166/luxury-watches-fine-jewellery-and-silver-lot-1000/ Burstow & Hewett, ref. 6106 case 802568, circa 1952]
* [https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/index.php/auction/the-july-online-sale-34/lot-91 Monaco Legend, ref. 6106 case 803115, 1951]
* [https://auctions.tennants.co.uk/auction/lot/lot-2191---rolex-a-stainless-steel-automatic-centre-secon/?au=14200&ef=&et=&g=1&ic=False&lot=2510236&pn=2&pp=96&sd=1&so=0&st=&sto=0 Tennants, ref. 6106 case 803117, 1952]
* [https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/index.php/auction/the-july-online-sale-34/lot-47 Monaco Legend, ref. 6106 case 803400, 1952]

* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080115/50 Phillips 2015, ref. 6611 case 214,124, dated 1956]
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080515/154 Phillips 2015, ref. 6611B case 401,546, dated 1958]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-6611b-lot-307-136 Antiquorum 2017, ref. 6611B, movement 386,339]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-31-37 Antiquorum 2002 steel school-watch lot, catalogued circa 1959]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-6611-lot-278-573 Antiquorum 2013 steel school-watch lot, catalogued as 1954]

* [https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/in-depth-rolex-8171-padellone-moonphase Benjamin Clymer, Hodinkee: 8171 case markings]
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080219/175 Phillips Geneva X, lot 175: 8171 case 1977074]
* [https://watchesbysjx.com/2019/10/rolex-8171-padellone-steel.html SJX, 2019: 8171 serial anomaly]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2020/important-watches-2/rolex-padellone-reference-8171-a-stainless-steel Sotheby’s Hong Kong, 2020, lot 2143: 8171 case 686356]
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/214766 Phillips Geneva XXI, lot 72: 8171 case 667005 and dated certificate]

* [https://rolexhaven.com/serial-numbers.html RolexHaven, Serial numbers]: photographs of the Pergola and Dowling–Hess charts transcribed above.
* Colin A. White, ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'', pp. 26–27: case-serial systems and the letter table.
* [https://rolexhaven.com/case-back-codes.html RolexHaven, Caseback date codes]: component-date caveats and photographed stamps.
* [https://www.assayofficelondon.co.uk/hallmarking/what-is-a-hallmark Goldsmiths' Company Assay Office, What is a hallmark?]: the meaning of office, sponsor, fineness and date marks.
* [https://www.vintagewatchstraps.com/importmarks.php David Boettcher, British import hallmarks]: historical office marks and date-letter cycles.
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/HK080422/8012 Phillips, Explorer 114270, lot 8012]: G030393 and the November 2010 guarantee.
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/96544 Phillips, Oyster Royal 6244, lot 211]; Christie's [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5731475 lot 214] and [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5158176 lot 3229]: differing catalogue dates for nearby case numbers.
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-226-401 Antiquorum, Prince 971, March 2010, lot 401]: case 70,064; the catalogue gives conflicting English and Glasgow office readings for its 1928 mark.
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auctions/24629/lot/37/ Bonhams, Prince 971, September 2018, lot 37]: case 0329, movement 70,668, Glasgow 1929.
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2019/watches-online-7/rolex-prince-reference-971-a-silver-wristwatch Sotheby’s, Prince 971, 2019, lot 8157]: case 71,969, movement 7,749, catalogue date c.1930.
* [https://www.christies.com/lot/lot-5257604 Christie’s, Prince 971U, case 67,940]: 18K gold case with Glasgow import mark dated 1929; catalogue dimensions 26 × 43 mm.
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2022/important-watches-online/prince-reference-971u-a-stainless-steel-and-yellow Sotheby's, Prince 971U, 2022, lot 619]: case 73,276, catalogued circa 1939.
* [https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-jewels-14/lot-156 Monaco Legend, Prince 971, July 2019, lot 156]: case 1,472 and its Eaton inscription. The title and essay describe steel and yellow gold; the material field instead lists yellow and white gold.
* Antiquorum, Geneva, March 2008, [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-203-692 lot 692] and [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-203-693 lot 693]: separate 1491 and 1491HS watches; the 1945 Bucherer invoice accompanies lot 692, case 1,578.
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/16805/lot/140/ Bonhams, Submariner 5510, June 2009, lot 140]: case 362,252, purchase history and the bracelet recorded at auction.
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-144-323 Antiquorum, COMEX 5513, November 2006, lot 323]; [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/90836 Phillips, COMEX 5514, Geneva TWO, lot 145]: reference, case-number and inscription details.
* The tables identify further auction and specialist sources beside each observation; see the linked reference articles for additional lot records.
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-108-122 Antiquorum, 2006, ref. 6075 case 685082]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-6075-lot-283-107 Antiquorum, 2014, ref. 6075 case 714441]
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080515/284 Phillips, 2015, ref. 6075 case 714440]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-6075-oyster-perpetual-officially-certified-chronometer-lot-351-147 Antiquorum, 2022, ref. 6075 case 715511]
* [https://auctions.gardinerhoulgate.co.uk/print-catalogue/354e86b2f2f64361e4c737fa8504bc4f/63b778f7668dabe928d3800924a99077/watches-jewellery-now-14th-may/ Gardiner Houlgate, 2025, ref. 6082 lot 436, circa 1948–50 with serial masked as 69x]
* [https://www.cambiaste.com/uploads/auctions/807-cambi_orologi_719_2022_05_eb.pdf Cambi Aste, 2022, ref. 6075 case 715.xxx]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-203-530 Antiquorum, ref. 6094/6294, case 745061]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-242-134 Antiquorum, ref. 6094, case 744253, 2010 date]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-6094-tropical-lot-262-291 Antiquorum, ref. 6094, case 744253, 2012 date]
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/29893/lot/85/ Bonhams, ref. 6094, case 881574 and IV.52 stamp]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-6094-oysterdate-precision-lot-313-138 Antiquorum, ref. 6094, case 882812]
* [https://www.christies.com/lot/lot-4970197 Christie's, ref. 6094, case 882963]
* [https://www.aguttes.com/lot/montres-de-collection-69808257-ca1b-404b-ba18-d421d9badcaf/rolex-64c89c55-4320-40cc-84b9-bd7f8554c1ca Aguttes, Prince 1768 case 010271, c.1930]
* [https://www.kaplans.se/en/auktioner/3448/vara/1474228 Kaplans, Prince 1768 case 010345, c.1930]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-1768-lot-307-118 Antiquorum, Prince 1768 case 019784, dated 1938]
* [https://www.rossini.fr/lot/131847/19633433 Rossini, Prince 1768 case 01028, circa 1927]
* [https://www.pandolfini.it/uploads/auctions/20141125.pdf Pandolfini, Prince 1768 case 12'672, 1930s]
* [https://uhren-muser.de/en/archives/108/57379 Uhren-Muser, Prince 1768 case 019794, circa 1930]
* [https://www.cannesauction.com/en-lots/64330 Cannes Auction, Prince ref. 1768, lot 135, circa 1937]
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-4642354 Christie’s, Prince ref. 1768 case 011069, circa 1940]

* [https://www.farsettiarte.it/uk/auction-0264-2/rolex-cellini-ref-3735-1967-107363 Farsetti, ref. 3735, lot 107363, masked case serial 15**30]
* [https://www.invaluable.com/auction-lot/rolex-cellini-blue-dial-in-18k-white-gold-113-c-d154d64b31 Fortuna, ref. 3735, case serial 1,809,871]

Reference:Movements

2026-10-14T00:32:59Z

Klaudiusz: [bot-audit] proposal #59 ref=Movements agents=refutter_review (FlaggedRevs pending review)

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex Caliber & Movement Reference}}
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Movements & Calibers — Cross-Family Reference | Rolexopedia
|description=Cross-family caliber catalogue for vintage and discontinued Rolex watches, with selected modern lineages through the 2023 Explorer II and Daytona transitions.
|keywords=Rolex caliber, Rolex movement, cal 4030, cal 4130, cal 727, Valjoux 72, Zenith El Primero, cal 1570, cal 1575, cal 3035, cal 3135, cal 3185, cal 3186, Oysterquartz 5035, Rolex chronograph caliber, vintage Rolex movement
|type=Article
}}

<small>[[Main Page]] › '''Movements'''</small>

Find a caliber by family below, then compare its markings and specifications with the individual watch reference. Several early caliber attributions remain disputed; those entries name the competing descriptions.

== Quick jump ==

<div class="rp-index">
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Prince (shaped)</div><div class="rp-chips">[[#cal-300|300]] [[#cal-300-ts|7½ T.S. 300]] [[#cal-310|310]] [[#cal-360-hw|360 HW]] [[#cal-350-ts|350 T.S.]] [[#cal-1759|1759]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Oyster Perpetual automatic</div><div class="rp-chips">[[#cal-1130-rolex-automatic|1130 OP]] [[#cal-1160|1160]] [[#cal-1161|1161]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Bubbleback / early automatic</div><div class="rp-chips">[[#cal-520|520]] [[#cal-50|50]] [[#cal-620|620]] [[#cal-630|630]] [[#cal-635|635]] [[#cal-105-hunter|700/710]] [[#cal-600|600]] [[#cal-59|59]] [[#cal-a260|A260]] [[#cal-a296|A296]] [[#cal-a295|A.295]] [[#cal-645|645]] [[#cal-740|740]] [[#cal-745|745]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Calendar / moonphase</div><div class="rp-chips">[[#cal-a295-cpl|A.295 CPL]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Early Oyster (lot attribution)</div><div class="rp-chips">[[#cal-2849-note|2849 (Cal. 500 attribution)]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Oyster / Oysterdate Precision</div><div class="rp-chips">[[#cal-1210|1210]] [[#cal-1215|1215]] [[#cal-1216|1216]] [[#cal-1220|1220]] [[#cal-1225|1225]] [[#cal-1200|1200]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Cellini and dress watches</div><div class="rp-chips">[[#cal-1600|1600]] [[#cal-7040|7040]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Vintage sport (1950s–80s)</div><div class="rp-chips">[[#cal-1030|1030]] [[#cal-1035|1035]] [[#cal-1036|1036]] [[#cal-1040|1040]] [[#cal-1050|1050]] [[#cal-1065|1065]] [[#cal-1066|1066]] [[#cal-1530|1530]] [[#cal-1520|1520]] [[#cal-1535|1535]] [[#cal-1525|1525]] [[#cal-1560|1560]] [[#cal-1565|1565]] [[#cal-1570|1570]] [[#cal-1575|1575]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Modern sport (1988–2023 coverage)</div><div class="rp-chips">[[#cal-3000|3000]] [[#cal-3035|3035]] [[#cal-3075|3075]] [[#cal-3085|3085]] [[#cal-3130|3130]] [[#cal-3132|3132]] [[#cal-3135|3135]] [[#cal-3175|3175]] [[#cal-3185|3185]] [[#cal-3186|3186]] [[#cal-3187|3187]] [[#cal-3230|3230]] [[#cal-3235|3235]] [[#cal-3285|3285]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Milgauss</div><div class="rp-chips">[[#cal-1080|1080]] [[#cal-1580|1580]] [[#cal-3131|3131]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Early chronograph</div><div class="rp-chips">[[#cal-13|13]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Daytona chronograph</div><div class="rp-chips">[[#cal-72|72]] [[#cal-72a|72A]] [[#cal-72b|72B]] [[#cal-722|722]] [[#cal-722-1|722-1]] [[#cal-727|727]] [[#cal-4030|4030]] [[#cal-4130|4130]] [[#cal-4131|4131]] [[#cal-4132|4132]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Day-Date</div><div class="rp-chips">[[#cal-1055|1055]] [[#cal-1555|1555]] [[#cal-1556|1556]] [[#cal-1566|1566]] [[#cal-3055|3055]] [[#cal-3155|3155]] [[#cal-3156|3156]] [[#cal-3255|3255]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Oysterquartz</div><div class="rp-chips">[[#cal-5035|5035]] [[#cal-5055|5055]]</div></div>
</div>

== Rolex movements ==

This page covers calibers used by Rolex families in the wiki, including several numbers with no confirmed fitment. Reference pages document individual applications.

A caliber designation identifies a movement type. An individual movement number and the case serial belong to separate numbering systems. Comparing their numerical size does not establish which component was made first. The [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial-number guide]] explains the limits of case dating.

Aegler in Bienne made most of the mechanical movements covered here. The firm supplied Rolex as an independent manufacturer before becoming its subsidiary in 2004.

The caliber entries describe balance materials, hairsprings and shock protection where documented. A technology's introduction at Rolex does not mean that every movement received it in the same year.

<span id="prince-family"></span>
== Early chronograph movement

The early Oyster chronograph references use Valjoux ébauches, with Rolex caliber designations that should be kept distinct from the maker’s base number. Available auction records support a limited Cal. 13 / Valjoux 23-family entry. Ebauches S.A.'s 1951 technical guide labels a two-pusher, 13-ligne movement “VZ 23” ([https://myretrowatches.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2024/09/Valjoux-VZ-23-Technical-Guide.pdf technical guide, 2nd edition March 1953]). That nomenclature does not establish Rolex fitment. The Cal. 13 evidence discussed here concerns the 3525 and does not identify every early Rolex chronograph movement.

Ref. [[Reference:2021|2021]] is a pre-Oyster monopusher. Published descriptions give movement sizes from 13 to 16½ lignes; Uhrenkosmos names a Valjoux VZ in one early monopusher, while auction catalogues describe different executions. The available records do not support a reference-wide caliber assignment. Keep these descriptions separate from the Cal. 13 entry below. [https://www.uhrenkosmos.com/rolex-daytona-seine-technik-und-geschichte/ Uhrenkosmos, early monopusher movement] [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/115419 Phillips, case 12'010] [https://www.cambiaste.com/it/asta-0795/rolex---rarissimo-cronografo-due-contatori-da-polso-monopulsante-in-ac-270066 Cambi, steel case 14xxx]

Auction records describe ref. [[Reference:2303|2303]] with 17-jewel lever movements; several Antiquorum lots measure them at 10½ lignes. Christie’s records a case-band pusher on one example, while other catalogues describe crown-operated monopushers. The lot descriptions leave caliber and maker unnamed, so a Valjoux 23 / Cal. 13 assignment would go beyond them. [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-108-137 Antiquorum, case 17890] [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-4796029 Christie’s, case 022310]

<span id="cal-13"></span>
=== Cal. 13 ===
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Manual chronograph
|-
| base family
| Valjoux 23; auction catalogues variously specify 23 VZ or only Cal. 13
|-
| size / jewels
| 13 lignes and 17 jewels in the Antiquorum Nutting record; Sotheby’s records 17 jewels for case 372822
|-
| fitment documented here
| [[Reference:3525|3525]]; other early reference assignments require their own source check
|}

Antiquorum identifies Cal. 13 and a 13-ligne, 17-jewel movement in the 3525 delivered to Clive Nutting; its Leon Brownlee catalogue also names Cal. 13. Sotheby’s 2020 catalogue for a 3525 gives manual winding and 17 jewels but no caliber number. The recurring Valjoux 23 attribution is supported by specialist references and auction descriptions, but the precise movement marking should be read from the individual watch. Cal. 13 is Rolex’s designation in these records; it is not a claim that Rolex manufactured the Valjoux chronograph base. See the [[Reference:pre-daytona-chronographs|pre-Daytona chronograph guide]].

== Prince (shaped movements) ==

The Prince family uses Aegler shaped movements. Wilsdorf and Aegler patented the layout in 1927 as a "shaped watch movement with a seconds dial." It placed the winding barrel at one end of the rectangular movement and the balance at the other, leaving room for a larger balance wheel and mainspring barrel than rival shaped calibers of the period. The larger balance improved precision, while the larger barrel extended the power reserve.

Aegler remained an independent supplier until Rolex bought the company from the Borer family in April 2004. "Aegler" and "Rebberg" refer to the same firm; Rebberg was the street in Bienne where it stood. Aegler also made movements for Gruen. The architectural sibling of Cal. 300 sold in the United States as the Gruen Techni-Quadron, designated Cal. 877. Gruen-stamped movements sometimes appear in Rolex Prince cases, but Cal. 877 was never a Rolex caliber number.

Prince grades run Prima → Extra Prima → Ultra Prima, with higher jewel counts, more adjustment positions, and stricter chronometer testing. Only Extra Prima and Ultra Prima watches carry "Chronometer" or "Observatory" dial marks. Rolex submitted Prince movements to the National Physical Laboratory at Kew for rate certificates independent of the Swiss Bureaux Officiels Suisse de Contrôle. Its often-cited 1914 Class A Kew certificate belongs to an earlier ladies' wristwatch movement, while Prince testing at Kew-Teddington began in 1928.

The Prince Imperial pocket watch, ref. [[Reference:1645|1645]], has a shaped manual movement. Sotheby’s records a 17-jewel Class A Observatory movement, number 1,000,823; Antiquorum describes other examples as 17-jewel Ultra Prima or Observatory movements in several line sizes. The Vintage Rolex Field Manual lists 5096 in its caliber column for the 1645. Auction descriptions and the inspected movement photographs do not confirm that number on a movement, so it remains a book attribution rather than an established caliber.

<span id="cal-300"></span>
=== Cal. 300 ===
[[File:Cal 300 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 300, Extra Prima grade, rectangular Prince architecture, Bonhams lot photo|alt=Cal. 300, Extra Prima grade, rectangular Prince architecture, Bonhams lot photo]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Manual
|-
| jewels
| 15 (Prima) · 18 (Extra/Ultra Prima)
|-
| frequency
| 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| ~50h
|-
| size
| 7½ × 14½ lignes / 16.9 × 32.7mm
|-
| escapement
| Lateral lever
|-
| shock
| None
|}

Cal. 300 is the original Prince movement, made from 1928 to 1935. Christie's describes all three as the same movement base, with interchangeable parts and the balance bridge identifying the original execution. Prima movements have 15 jewels and six-position adjustment; Extra Prima and Ultra Prima versions have 18 jewels, six-position adjustment, and sometimes a Chronometer marking. David Boettcher identifies the additional jewels as two end-stones on the escape-wheel pivots and a top bearing on the centre wheel. Early movements carry the grade wording on the ratchet wheel, while later examples place it on the main train bridge. The photographed Extra Prima, marked "Observatory 6 Positions," shows the later convention.

Balance metallurgy changed gradually. Examples from 1928 use a bimetallic balance with a plain Breguet spring; by the mid-to-late 1930s, documented movements have both monometallic and bimetallic balances paired with Elinvar-alloy hairsprings. No exact transition year is established. "Patented Superbalance" on later ratchet wheels and bridges refers to Aegler's Swiss patent CH196706, filed in August 1936 and granted in March 1938. A movement carrying the mark postdates the grant. The recessed timing screws are often said to reduce air resistance, but Boettcher reads the patent as a way to maximize the balance's radius of gyration within the available space.

The Cal. 300 examples described here have no identified shock-protection system. Incabloc dates the start of its production to 1933 and the later lyre-spring design to 1938. Those dates alone cannot establish the fittings in a particular Prince.

Several UK auction catalogues treat the three- and four-digit numbers found on movements in refs 1862, 1490, and 1855 as calibers. The documented numbers are 510, 579, 841, 1004, 1130, and 1439, with weaker evidence for 701 and a single record of 1759. They are almost certainly movement serials read from the plate. Continental catalogues identify the same movement class by grade and the T.S. size code instead. Cal. 414 and Cal. 527 have no documented connection to the Rolex Prince. The number 971A is a Prince case reference, not an established caliber designation; Antiquorum catalogued that reference in 1989 with a T.S./300-family movement. Fabsuisse labels the movement in its separate ref. 3937 dealer listing “Cal. 971A,” but the auction records reviewed here do not confirm that designation. Treat it as an unverified dealer attribution unless a readable movement marking supports it.

<span id="cal-300-ts"></span>
=== Cal. 7½′′′ T.S. 300 ===
[[File:Cal 300 TS movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 7½′′′ T.S. 300, marked "Rolex World's Records," "Rolex Chronometer," "18 Rubies, Ultra Prima"|alt=Cal. 7½′′′ T.S. 300, marked "Rolex World's Records," "Rolex Chronometer," "18 Rubies, Ultra Prima"]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Manual
|-
| frequency
| 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| ~50h
|-
| size
| 7½′′′ rectangular
|-
| escapement
| Lateral lever
|-
| balance
| Monometallic
|-
| regulator
| Micrometer
|}

"T.S." is Rolex's size-family code for this 16.9 × 32.7mm architecture, catalogued by Christie's as "cal. T.S. Ref. 300." There is no support for the common expansion "Très Soigné." The six-position Ultra Prima execution ran from 1932 to 1938 with a lateral lever escapement, monometallic balance, micrometer regulator, Breguet overcoil hairspring, and rhodium plating. On the [[Reference:1527|1527 Railway]], Extra Prima movements outnumber Ultra Prima examples, reversing the pattern seen on the 1490. An eight-position Ultra Prima marked "Officially Tested in Eight Ways" is documented on a 1931 bamboo-bracelet example sold by Mondani in 2006.

Antiquorum's 2017 listing for Prince ref. 1768 case 019784 describes a 7½-line T.S. 300 with 15 jewels; its listing has no movement photograph. Uhren-Muser's 2023 photograph of case 019794 shows an Extra Prima movement marked 17 Rubies. The watch and box images resemble Antiquorum's example, but the case numbers differ by one digit, so the lots may be repeat listings. The T.S. 300 illustrated here is marked 18 Rubies. Keep each count with its photographed or catalogued example. [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-1768-lot-307-118 Antiquorum, 2017, lot 118] [https://uhren-muser.de/en/archives/108/57379 Uhren-Muser, 2023, lot 266]

<span id="cal-310"></span>
=== Cal. 310 ===
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Manual
|-
| jewels
| 18
|-
| size
| 7½′′′ rectangular (19 × 49mm cased)
|-
| escapement
| Lateral lever
|-
| balance
| Superbalance, 6-position
|-
| regulator
| Micrometer
|}

Cal. 310 is the centre-seconds member of the T.S. family, used in the wedge-shaped [[Reference:3361|3361 Aerodynamic]], 3362, and [[Reference:3937|3937]] Prince group. Antiquorum described a 3361 in 2000 as a rhodium-plated 7½-ligne movement with 18 jewels, lateral lever escapement, six-position Superbalance, self-compensating Breguet balance spring, and micrometer regulator, in a 19 × 49mm case. That catalogue does not print the number 310, so the caliber attribution is less secure than the architecture and specifications. Movement production ended in 1938, but Aegler stock remained in Rolex cases through 1952. The difference between a movement number and case number does not independently prove a stockpiling interval.

<span id="cal-360-hw"></span>
=== Cal. 360 HW ===
[[File:Cal 360 HW movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 360 HW, marked "Rolex, 15 Rubies, Swiss Made"|alt=Cal. 360 HW, marked "Rolex, 15 Rubies, Swiss Made"]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Manual
|-
| jewels
| 15–18
|}

The architecture of Cal. 360 is disputed. Christie's describes a 1938 ref. 2835 "Prince Elegant" with a tonneau-shaped 15-jewel movement, and Charles Jarman's ''The Rolex Reference Guide'' (4th edition) calls Cal. 360 a manual, small-seconds, tonneau-shaped movement with a SuperBalance. Watch Doctor’s online chart instead lists a rectangular, 18-jewel movement measuring 18 × 27mm. The page does not identify an underlying Rolex document.

Christie's also describes a rectangular 17-jewel Cal. 360 in 1937 Precision ref. 3140 case 41,362. Monaco Legend gives Cal. 360 for another 1937 ref. 3140, case 41,465, but no jewel count. These are catalogue attributions to individual watches; they do not settle the conflicting movement descriptions. [https://www.christies.com/lot/lot-rolex-a-9k-gold-rectangular-curved-wristwatch-5130486/ Christie’s, 2008 lot 13]; [https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-33/lot-219 Monaco Legend, 2024 lot 219]

Jarman dates Cal. 360 to 1937. The expansion of the HW designation remains unconfirmed; it should be retained as a designation rather than expanded to Hans Wilsdorf. The differing shape and jewel descriptions need comparison with the movement in the individual watch. Ineichen’s 2016 catalogue attributes C.360 to a Prince ref. 1880 and describes a nickel-plated lever movement. That is one lot-level attribution; it does not resolve the conflicting descriptions above. [https://ineichen.com/upload/iblock/83c/fnnltq7byndm2n2lwa14zfgz3qzl1tuc.pdf Ineichen, Auction 164, lot 133]

<span id="cal-510"></span>
<span id="cal-579"></span>
<span id="cal-701"></span>
<span id="cal-841"></span>
<span id="cal-1004"></span>
<span id="cal-1130"></span>
<span id="cal-1439"></span>
=== Numbered Prince movements (510, 579, 701, 841, 1004, 1130, 1439) ===

Seven numbers circulate in Prince catalogues as "calibers": 510, 579, 701, 841, 1004, 1130, and 1439. In the Prince examples reviewed here, the bare numbers are most likely movement serials rather than caliber designations. This interpretation is specific to the Prince plates; auction catalogues separately identify a Rolex automatic Cal. 1130 in Oyster Perpetual [[Reference:6548|ref. 6548]] examples, discussed below.

Photographed Prince plates carry a grade legend, jewel count, "Swiss Made," and a bare number stamped beside the "NN RUBIES" wording, but no caliber designation. Grade legends include Prima, Extra Prima, Ultra Prima, Observatory Quality, Officially Tested in Eight Ways, Timed 6 Positions, and For All Climates. The bare number ranges from four to seven digits. Ultra Prima 18-jewel examples with otherwise matching plates carry 1260, 1439, and 1759 in that position, confirming that the stamp varies within one movement type.

Continental auction catalogues identify these movements by size code and grade, such as "cal. T.S. 300" or "7½′′′ T.S. 300, Observatory Quality." UK lots that print a "Cal." figure also give a separate case or serial number, indicating that the supposed caliber was read from the movement. The specifications also overlap: 1439 and 1759 both describe an 18-jewel Ultra Prima movement adjusted to six positions. A bare mainplate serial has likewise appeared in print as a "1240 calibre movement."

Auction descriptions use these numbers, but the available plate evidence points to movement serials.

{| class="wikitable" style="font-size:90%;"
! number
! documented on
! catalogue text
! notes
|-
| 510
| Prince Brancard ref. 1855, serial 143**, circa 1930
| "17-jewel Cal.510 manual wind movement tested to 8 positions"
| 8-position adjustment, against the more typical 6
|-
| 579
| stainless steel ref. 1862, circa 1935, case No. 103
| "17-jewel Cal.579 manual wind movement" (Bonhams London)
| single lot; the trailing "T" in some listings is absent from Bonhams' catalogue text
|-
| 701
| one photograph showing "ROLEX PRINCE 701" on a 1930s piece
| none
| no recorded jewel count, adjustment count, or technical description; no auction or catalogue attribution
|-
| 841
| ref. 1862 circa 1930, case No. 10403
| "17-jewel Cal.841 manual wind" (Bonhams London; resold through Tajan in 2019, the same watch catalogued twice)
| a separate listing gives 15 jewels for a "Cal. 841T" on a different 1862; a caliber designation would not change jewel count
|-
| 1004
| ref. 1862, Glasgow import mark for 1936, serial 176**
| "17-jewel Cal.1004 manual wind movement tested to 8 positions" (Bonhams, December 2015)
| white gold bezel, fixed wire lugs, gilt brick-link bracelet
|-
| 1130
| 9K yellow gold ref. 1490, case 30280
| "cal. 1130 manual winding lever movement, 16 jewels"
| lowest jewel count recorded in the group
|-
| 1439
| Prince Chronometre ref. 1490, Glasgow import mark for 1937, serial 307**
| "18-jewel Cal.1439 manual wind movement timed to 6 positions" (Bonhams)
| same 18-jewel, 6-position Ultra Prima specification as Cal. 1759 below
|}

Cal. 1759 is the same phenomenon. It remains separate because the photographed watch preserves matching movement and caseback markings, but the number appears in the serial position on an Ultra Prima plate and is documented in only one regional UK auction.

<span id="cal-1759"></span>
=== Cal. 1759 ===
[[File:Cal 1759 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 1759, "1759, 18 RUBIES, ULTRA PRIMA," with its matching case back|alt=Cal. 1759, "1759, 18 RUBIES, ULTRA PRIMA," with its matching case back]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Manual
|-
| jewels
| 18
|}

This circa 1937 Ultra Prima Chronometer has 18 jewels and six-position adjustment. Gardiner Houlgate catalogued it in a 9ct ref. 1862 with 1937 Glasgow import hallmarks as a "cal. 1759 Ultra Prima Chronometer 18 jewel movement timed 6 positions." The photographed example retains its matching caseback, engraved "1759, 18 Rubies, Ultra Prima" alongside "31 Records Universels" and a retailer stamp. The identification rests on this single regional UK auction lot.

<span id="cal-350-ts"></span>
=== Cal. 350 T.S. ===
[[File:Cal 350 TS movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 350 T.S., Extra Prima grade, 15 rubies, timed to 6 positions, in a ref. 1491 jumping hour|alt=Cal. 350 T.S., Extra Prima grade, 15 rubies, timed to 6 positions, in a ref. 1491 jumping hour]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Manual
|-
| jewels
| 15 or 18 (documented both ways)
|-
| size
| 16.9 × 32.7mm (T.S.)
|-
| escapement
| Lateral lever
|-
| balance
| Monometallic
|}

Cal. 350 is the jump-hour member of the T.S. family, alongside the small-seconds Cal. 300 and centre-seconds Cal. 310. Christie's and Sotheby's catalogue it in the [[Reference:1491|1491 Brancard Jumping Hour]] as an 18-jewel, chronometer-rated movement on the T.S. base. Another 1491 has a 15-jewel Extra Prima movement; Ultra Prima examples have 18 jewels. Jewel count varies with grade. The jump-hour disc works on much the same principle as the later Datejust date disc. Surviving examples carry Glasgow import hallmarks from 1930–31, consistent with the T.S. base's 1928–35 production window.

The 1491 has a deeper case than the 1490 to accommodate its jump-hour mechanism. Case depth is one comparison point; the movement, module and case markings must agree as well.

== Cellini and dress-watch calibers ==

Auction catalogues identify manually wound Cal. 1600 in late-1960s Cellini-labelled ref. [[Reference:3735|3735]] examples. Rolex's 1978 service booklet supplies the movement dimensions and rate; the auction descriptions supply reference fitment and jewel count.

=== Cal. 1600 ===
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Manual-wind, round
|-
| size
| 9¼ lignes
|-
| frequency
| 19,800 beats per hour
|-
| jewels
| 19 (Farsetti catalogue)
|-
| fitment documented here
| Cellini-labelled ref. [[Reference:3735|3735]] examples in Farsetti and Fortuna auction records
|}

Rolex's 1978 ''Technical and Service Information'' lists Cal. 1600 as a round 9¼-ligne movement running at 19,800 beats per hour. Farsetti and Fortuna attribute Cal. 1600 to their respective 3735 watches; Farsetti lists 19 jewels. Since neither auction entry includes a movement photograph, these remain catalogue attributions for the individual examples.

''Sources:'' [https://www.vrfm.io/Scans/TECHNICAL-SERVICE-INFO-3RD-EDITION-1978.pdf Rolex Technical and Service Information, third edition (1978)]; [https://www.farsettiarte.it/uk/auction-0264-2/rolex-cellini-ref-3735-1967-107363 Farsetti, lot 107363]; [https://www.invaluable.com/auction-lot/rolex-cellini-blue-dial-in-18k-white-gold-113-c-d154d64b31 Fortuna, lot 113].

=== Cal. 7040 ===

Rolex's archived Cellini Prince descriptions identify Cal. 7040 as a shaped, manually wound, chronometer-certified movement with Paraflex shock absorbers, a Breguet overcoil and about 72 hours of reserve. Rolex's 2015 price list gives 21 jewels; its archived product page gives 28,800 beats per hour.

{| class="wikitable"
! suffix !! reference !! Rolex's listed version
|-
| 7040-1 || 5440/8 || 18 ct yellow gold; Clou de Paris dial
|-
| 7040-3 || [[Reference:5441/9|5441/9]] || 18 ct white gold; silver Godron Circulaire or diamond-pavé Godron dial
|-
| 7040-2 || 5442/5 || Everose gold; Rayon Flammé de la Gloire dial
|-
| 7040-4 || 5443/9 || 18 ct white gold; double Rayon Flammé de la Gloire dial
|}

Rolex's model-specific text assigns Cal. 7040-3 to both 5441/9 dial versions. Antiquorum's 2008 catalogue calls case D758994 Cal. 7040-1; Christie's and Sotheby's identify other 5441/9 examples as 7040-3. Keep Antiquorum's label with that lot; the available record does not resolve it. [https://web.archive.org/web/20141220000635/http://www.rolex.com/watches/cellini-rolex-prince/m5441_9-0012.html Rolex archived Cellini Prince product page, 2014]; [https://www.rolexforum.nl/prijslijst-rolex-NL2015.pdf Rolex Netherlands price list, 2015]; [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-205-78 Antiquorum, Geneva, 2008]; [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5493261 Christie's, case D774253]; [https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2010/important-watches-ge1001/lot.132.html Sotheby's, Geneva, 2010, lot 132].

<span id="bubbleback-family"></span>
== Early manual-wind Oyster examples ==

The early cushion-case Oyster references used manual movements, but the available catalogue descriptions do not support one movement assignment for every reference. For [[Reference:1069|ref. 1069]], Antiquorum describes a 15-jewel 11-ligne manual movement on its 2003 example; Christie's describes an unnamed 15-jewel lever movement, and a dealer-photographed example shows a 17-jewel Rolex movement. Keep each description with its watch. Aste Bolaffi's Marconi Oyster has a 15-jewel FHF 30-based movement and the number 1069 on its case, but the catalogue does not identify that number as the reference. [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-41-480 Antiquorum 2003]; [https://www.christies.com/lot/lot-3892839 Christie's]; [https://www.1stdibs.com/jewelry/watches/wrist-watches/rolex-nickel-silver-cushion-shaped-oyster-original-dial/id-j_18189072/ dealer photo set]; [https://www.astebolaffi.it/en/lot/268/87/detail Aste Bolaffi 2022]

For [[Reference:1072|ref. 1072]], Antiquorum describes 10-ligne, 18-jewel movements in two examples. Bonhams calls a separate example a 15-jewel Prima. Cool Auction labels the movement Cal. 10½ and reports 15 jewels, 18,000 beats per hour and a maximum 38-hour reserve on a Bucherer-signed watch. The same dealer attributes a Superbalance and Breguet hairspring to that movement. Hess Fine Auctions reports a manual 15-jewel movement in its 2023 lot. Watch Collecting describes another example as manual-wind but gives no caliber or jewel count. Toovey’s title calls its circa-1938 example Ultra Prima but gives no movement specification. The Cool Auction caliber label has no corroboration in the other records; the lots do not establish a single movement assignment or grade across the reference. [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-96-82 Antiquorum, Hong Kong, 1997]; [https://www.collectorsquare.com/en/watches/rolex/prima/lpi Antiquorum and Bonhams archive]; [https://www.cool-auction.net/gallery/23866/ Cool Auction]; [https://www.hessfineauctions.com/auction-lot/superior-rolex-oyster-1072-large-cushion-vintage_98542e8bd8 Hess Fine Auctions, lot 3211]; [https://collecting.com/for-sale/1938-rolex-oyster-2 Watch Collecting]; [https://www.tooveys.com/lots/613066/a-rolex-oyster-ultra-prima-chrome-cushion-cased-gentlemans-wristwatch Toovey’s]

For [[Reference:1073|ref. 1073]], Antiquorum names a 10½-ligne Extra Prima movement with 15 jewels. David Boettcher reports that Prima movements he has examined are generally 15-jewel, while the Extra Prima and Ultra Prima examples he has examined have 18 jewels. Antiquorum’s description is an exception to that pattern; its catalogue does not explain the mismatch. Christie's describes a 15-jewel Prima, and Bonhams calls another 15-jewel movement Ultra Prima. The lot descriptions give no shared caliber number or reference-wide grade. [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-15-258 Antiquorum]; [https://www.christies.com/lot/lot-811717 Christie's]; [https://www.collectorsquare.com/en/watches/rolex/oyster/ref-rolex-1073/lpi Bonhams archive]; [https://vintagewatchstraps.com/blogprima.php David Boettcher, movement-grade survey]

A scanned Oyster case-and-crown table lists ref. [[Reference:2416|2416]] at 10½ lignes in its “calibre size” column. TimeAnagram gives the same figure in a dealer movement field. A Hodinkee photograph of case 32342 shows a manual movement stamped “Rolex 15 rubies”; Bonhams describes case 37425 as a patented Superbalance. Christie’s identifies case 36776 with an Ultra Prima movement jewelled to the third. These catalogue descriptions give no numbered caliber for the reference. [https://www.vrfm.io/Scans/OYSTER-CROWNS-GUIDE.pdf Oyster case-and-crown table, ref. 2416 row]; [https://timeanagram.com/en/products/57171 TimeAnagram, ref. 2416 item 57171]; [https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/bring-a-loupe-march-14-2025 Hodinkee, case 32342]; [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/25954/lot/93/ Bonhams, case 37425]; [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-3012418 Christie’s, case 36776, sale 5004 lot 98]

<span id="cal-2849-note"></span>
For [[Reference:2849|ref. 2849]], two Antiquorum catalogues identify 17-jewel Cal. 500 movements in separate watches dated 1937. Antiquorum’s 2006 note also says Cal. 500 was produced from 1943 to 1953, which conflicts with that lot’s own date and attribution. These attributions belong to those catalogue examples; the records do not settle the reference’s movement range. [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-108-216 Antiquorum, case 87,464]; [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-2849-lot-272-145 Antiquorum, case 36,618].

== Oyster Perpetual automatic movements ==

<span id="cal-1130-rolex-automatic"></span>
=== Rolex automatic Cal. 1130 ===

Auction catalogues identify an automatic Rolex Cal. 1130 in Oyster Perpetual ref. [[Reference:6548|6548]] examples; Dorotheum and Antiquorum describe 26 jewels. This is separate from the bare 1130 number on the Prince plates above, where it appears in a movement-serial position.

Ranfft dates Cal. 1130 to 1955. Dorotheum lists it in a 6548 dated circa 1942/43, while Jones & Horan lists it in a circa-1957 6548 with serial 230918, only 334 higher than Dorotheum’s 230584. These records conflict; they do not establish a 6548 production interval or resolve which date or identification is wrong. The available sources also do not establish beat rate or a full technical specification. Verify the movement marking on the individual watch. [https://www.dorotheum.com/en/l/8560852/ Dorotheum]; [https://www.auctions.jones-horan.com/1901/html/rolex.htm Jones & Horan, lot 485]; [https://ranfft.org/caliber/12808-Rolex-1130?from=manufacturer Ranfft]; [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-111-145 Antiquorum]

<span id="cal-1160"></span>
=== Cal. 1160 ===

The Vintage Rolex Field Manual lists Cal. 1160 on base 1100, with automatic winding, 26 jewels and a rate of 19,800 vph; its table gives 1968. Sotheby's and Cambi catalogue Cal. 1160 in ref. [[Reference:6548|6548]] watches dated circa 1945 and circa 1957. Those lot dates conflict with the Field Manual entry. Its table is not a ref. 6548 fitment record, and the available sources do not resolve whether the discrepancy comes from a lot date or caliber identification. [https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/0b5fdf83/files/uploaded/1.0%20RolexBook-23Mar.pdf The Vintage Rolex Field Manual]; [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2025/important-watches-ii/reference-6548-a-stainless-steel-wristwatch-with Sotheby's, lot 8773]; [https://www.cambiaste.com/uk/auction-0841/rolex-precious-oyster-perpetual-watch-ref-6548-in-steel-with-silver-di-286012 Cambi, lot 186]

<span id="cal-1161"></span>
=== Cal. 1161 ===

The Field Manual lists Cal. 1161 on base 1100, with automatic winding, 26 jewels and 19,800 vph; its table gives 1970. Sotheby's attributes Cal. 1161 to a ref. [[Reference:6548|6548]] dated circa 1964. Bonhams assigns it to a circa-1968 watch catalogued jointly as refs. 6548/6549. These catalogue dates precede the manual's entry; the sources do not establish the 6548 fitment interval or resolve the conflict. [https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/0b5fdf83/files/uploaded/1.0%20RolexBook-23Mar.pdf The Vintage Rolex Field Manual]; [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2020/watches-5/rolex-reference-6548-oyster-perpetual-mickey-mouse-2 Sotheby's]; [https://images1.bonhams.com/original?src=Images%2Flive%2F2020-01%2F30%2FS-25954-0-1.pdf Bonhams, lot 161]

== Bubbleback and early automatic ==

Bubbleback and early Oyster Perpetual references use a distinct family of self-winding calibers. They followed the Prince's manual shaped movements and preceded the standardized post-war automatic line. The "bubble" refers to the domed caseback needed to clear the full-rotor automatic mechanism. It was not a bumper system, although many competing automatics still used one.

<span id="cal-520"></span>
=== Cal. 520 ===
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 17 (registry; 19 in some auction descriptions)
|-
| frequency
| 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz)
|-
| escapement
| Straight-line lever
|-
| balance
| Superbalance
|}

Cal. 520 debuted in the original 1933 ref. 1858 with its three-piece Oyster case. Antiquorum describes the 8¾-ligne rhodium-plated movement in a [[Reference:3353|3353]] as automatic, with 19 jewels, 18,000 vph, a straight-line lever escapement, and a Superbalance with Breguet balance spring. Cal. 620 superseded it as the architecture developed through the mid-1930s. No confirmed movement photograph is available; a generic early Bubbleback movement should not be identified as a 520 unless the engraved caliber number is visible.

<span id="cal-50"></span>
=== Cal. 50 (3130 auction attribution) ===

Sotheby's catalogued one stainless-steel [[Reference:3130|ref. 3130]] as a manual-wind Cal. 50 with 17 jewels and subsidiary seconds ([2013 lot 197](https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2013/watches-n09002/lot.197.html)). The lot is the only application of Cal. 50 checked here. Its caliber attribution, jewel count and configuration should remain tied to that catalogue entry until a movement stamp is inspected; this page does not establish a production range or other reference fitment.

<span id="cal-620"></span>
=== Cal. 620 ===
[[File:Cal 620 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 620, EmmyWatch|alt=Cal. 620, EmmyWatch]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 17
|-
| frequency
| 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 35h
|-
| size
| 11½ lignes / 26.4mm × 7.5mm
|-
| escapement
| Straight-line lever
|-
| balance
| Superbalance (monometallic)
|}

Derived from the manual Cal. 600, Cal. 620 became the base for Rolex's early full-rotor automatic family. Antiquorum catalogues individual examples with 17 to 20 jewels, against the table's 17-jewel specification. Earlier 1940s movements have a swan-neck micrometer regulator without shock protection; by the early 1950s, an index regulator and shock absorber appear.

[https://ineichen.com/upload/iblock/2fe/sy5t0kgrsmh01eycyb7x6dv935lixtef.pdf Ineichen’s Auction 166 catalogue] identifies Cal. 620 in one 1940s ref. [[Reference:4643|4643]], case A60906 (p. 143). Keep that attribution with the auction lot; it does not establish a reference-wide caliber assignment.

Marcus Siems assigns Cal. 620 to ref. [[Reference:3716|3716]] in his Empire study. That conflicts with Antiquorum's Cal. 635 listing for case 156649 and the Cal. 635 entry in Colin A. White's reference table. Catalogues describe several 3716 movements as 9¾ lignes, while the specification above gives Cal. 620 as 11½ lignes. The published records do not reconcile the caliber assignments. [https://goldammer.me/blogs/articles/rolex-empire-oyster-guide Siems, “The Deceptive Oyster”]; [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-209-284 Antiquorum, 2008, lot 284].

The rotor is a unidirectional "Perpetual" type that turns through 360 degrees without bumpers or buffers. It is engraved "ROLEX PERPETUAL / CHRONOMETER / SWISS MADE / PATENTED / SUPER-BALANCE," while the three-screw, 18mm cover plate reads "VIS TIRETTE / PATENTED / TRIGGER SCREW." Cal. 620 powered early Bubblebacks. Rolex dates the introduction of its Perpetual rotor to 1931, but that historical account does not name the caliber. Cal. 630 and the related 635 and 645 developed from the same architecture.

Published records for [[Reference:3134|3134]] show both subsidiary- and centre-seconds layouts; identify the caliber from its movement marking. Antiquorum’s 1995 Milan lot gives 9½ lignes; Antiquorum’s 1992 lot and Exclusive Timepieces lot 227 give 9¾. Klöter describes lot 443’s anchor movement as intact, without a caliber or winding type. Seconds layout alone cannot distinguish Cal. 620 from 635 or Cal. 630 from 645. See the [https://www.kloeter-auktionen.de/Katalog_185.pdf Klöter catalogue] and reference article for lot-level evidence.

<span id="cal-630"></span>
=== Cal. 630 ===
[[File:Cal 630 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 630, EmmyWatch|alt=Cal. 630, EmmyWatch]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 17
|-
| frequency
| 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz)
|-
| size
| 26.0mm
|-
| escapement
| Straight-line lever
|-
| balance
| Monometallic
|}

Launched in 1937, Cal. 630 was chronometer-certified under the period Swiss testing system, adjusted to seven positions, and fitted with a Breguet hairspring. One secondary source gives 18 jewels rather than the table's 17. The movement developed directly from Cal. 620 and shares its "Vis Tirette *** Patented *** Trigger Screw" cover-plate marking. Its rotor and bridge also carry the same "Rolex Perpetual Chronometer, Swiss Made, Patented, Super-Balance" signature. The caliber number stamped in the small box on the bridge distinguishes the two.

The Field Manual also lists Cal. 630 against the 3372 suffix variants. Antiquorum explicitly names Cal. 630 in a 3372 with centre seconds ([New York lot 436](https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-23-436)). The same manual lists subsidiary seconds for one 3372/3 entry, while Christie's catalogue describes a 3372 with small seconds and a 9¾-ligne, 17-jewel movement but gives no caliber number ([case 474309](https://www.christies.com/lot/rolex-oyster-perpetual-chronometre-bubble-back-ref-5091692/?intObjectID=5091692&lid=1)). Keep those statements tied to their sources; they do not establish a Cal. 630 small-seconds variant.

Henrik Korpela identifies Cal. 630 NA in one gold watch catalogued as ref. [[Reference:6074|6074]]; its movement number is 56567. Korpela's photographs show 6030 and 6031 scratched out on the caseback before 6074 was stamped over them ([https://watchesbysjx.com/2015/05/explained-restoring-a-1950s-rolex-oyster-perpetual-ref-6074.html SJX restoration]). Antiquorum's 1992 platinum 6074 lot gives a 9¾-ligne, 17-jewel movement with antishock but names no caliber ([https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-146-67 lot 67]). Keep each description attached to its watch; the records do not establish a reference-wide caliber assignment.

<span id="cal-635"></span>
=== Cal. 635 ===

Cal. 635 belongs to the early automatic family related to Cal. 620. General movement references describe a subsidiary-seconds layout, 17 jewels and a larger movement than the 9¾-ligne measurements in two 3130 auction entries. Antiquorum catalogued 3130 cases 54932 and 474617 with Cal. 635, 19 jewels, 9¾ lignes and subsidiary seconds ([lot 256](https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-108-256); [lot 169](https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-108-169)). Christie's identified case 443093 as Cal. 635 with 19 jewels but centre seconds ([2007 lot 2858](https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5008631)). The latter catalogue description conflicts with the usual seconds layout. Without a visible caliber stamp, keep the centre-seconds attribution attached to that lot; do not treat it as a confirmed Cal. 635 variant.

Antiquorum's 2008 catalogue assigns Cal. 635 to ref. [[Reference:3716|3716]], case 156649, and describes a 9¾-ligne, 19-jewel movement. That listing conflicts with the Cal. 620 attribution in Marcus Siems's Empire study; the movement-size description does not by itself establish a numeric caliber. [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-209-284 Antiquorum, lot 284].

Ref. [[Reference:1925|1925]] lots name Prima or Ultra Prima grades. Antiquorum describes a 9′′′, 15-jewel Prima; Christie’s names Prima on its 1928 example and Ultra Prima on a 1930s octagonal watch; Sterling Vault records a 15-jewel Ultra Prima. The auction record supplies grade names rather than a numeric caliber assignment. Antiquorum also describes a 1948 ref. [[Reference:2081|2081]] with a 10-ligne, 15-jewel Prima; that lot does not name a caliber. [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-203-675 Antiquorum, lot 675]

<span id="cal-105-hunter"></span>
=== Cal. 10½ Hunter ===
[[File:Cal 700 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 700, the 10½-ligne Hunter, monometallic Superbalance, shown in its Oyster case|alt=Cal. 700, the 10½-ligne Hunter, monometallic Superbalance, shown in its Oyster case]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Manual
|-
| jewels
| 15–18
|-
| frequency
| 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz)
|-
| size
| 10½ lignes
|-
| escapement
| Straight-line lever
|-
| balance
| Superbalance, 6-position
|-
| regulator
| Swan-neck micrometer
|}

This Aegler-supplied 10½-ligne hand-wound family uses the 700/710 architecture. It has a straight-line lever escapement, monometallic Superbalance adjusted to six positions, self-compensating Breguet balance spring, and swan-neck micrometer regulator, with no documented shock protection. Antiquorum names Cal. 700 in its catalogue for ref. [[Reference:3358|3358]], case 51,419, with 18 jewels; its ref. [[Reference:2081|2081]] case 599,744 lot names the same caliber and grade but records 15 jewels. The discrepancy is unresolved, so the jewel count is left unspecified here. [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-108-225 Antiquorum, ref. 3358] [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-108-226 Antiquorum, ref. 2081] The movement powers the original Air-King 4925 and its Air-Lion, Air-Tiger, and Air-Giant siblings, including the sub-seconds 4365, mid-size 4444, and 4647 Hunter Precision. Its architecture links the pre-war Prince and Bubbleback movements with the post-war automatic Cal. 1030. Cal. 700 and 710 are hand-wound movements; Cal. 720 belongs to the automatic branch. TimeAnagram lists Cal. 710 for a manual [[Reference:3121|ref. 3121]] and shows an open-movement photograph marked Rolex 15 Rubies and Superbalance, but no readable caliber number. Keep Cal. 710 as the seller’s attribution to that watch. White’s *The Vintage Rolex Field Manual* maps [[Reference:5031|ref. 5031]] to Cal. 710 in a reference table, but auction catalogues describe 5031 examples as automatic date watches. Christie’s [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-204100 listing] records movement number 37519 but no caliber; Antiquorum’s [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-120-203 1995], [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-53-191 1999] and [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-222-285 2009] entries do not name a caliber and report differing sizes and jewel counts. Sotheby’s 2020 and 2022 entries say only “automatic.” The available records do not resolve the conflict, so the 5031 is not assigned to Cal. 710, A.295, 740, or 745 here.

Auction catalogues identify manual Cal. 710 in three ref. 6082 watches: Antiquorum cases 784516 and 721396, and Monaco Legend case 810693. Colin White’s reference table also pairs 6082 with Cal. 710. Antiquorum’s Hong Kong 2021 narrative calls case 721396 self-winding, while its movement field names Cal. 710. Kibble Watches and Watch.de assign Cal. 1210 to separate examples; Watch.de reports case 721965, a 1961 date and movement no. 1162170. Neither dealer listing provides a readable movement photograph, so these remain seller attributions. [[Reference:6082|The 6082 article]] keeps the conflicting records tied to individual watches.

Catalogues describe hand-wound Kew A movements in refs. [[Reference:5056|5056]] and [[Reference:6210|6210]] as 10.5-ligne or Cal. 720 examples; Uhrenkosmos calls the 6210 Cal. 700. Bonhams describes ref. 5056 movement 4215 as a Cal. 700 base reworked into what Rolex called Cal. 720, and Vetroplastica describes the Kew movement as Cal. 700-based with Cal. 720 parts. These are source-specific labels for manual Kew A movements. The generic Cal. 720 entry above describes the automatic branch. [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/24632/lot/21/rolex-a-very-rare-stainless-steel-manual-wind-bracelet-watch-with-kew-certification-and-especially-good-result-oyster-speedking-kew-a-certificate-ref-5056-circa-1947/ Bonhams, ref. 5056] [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5257637 Christie’s, ref. 6210] [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/29155/lot/19/rolex-an-extremely-rare-18k-gold-kew-a-manual-wind-wristwatch-rolex-oyster-observatory-chronometer-ref-6210-circa-1955/ Bonhams, ref. 6210] [https://www.vetroplastica.it/rolex-kew-a-18.html Vetroplastica] [https://www.uhrenkosmos.com/rolex-meilensteine-1952-bis-1955-wegweisend/ Uhrenkosmos]

White’s reference table also maps [[Reference:6031|ref. 6031]] to Cal. 710, but the auction records describe automatic date watches. [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-17-555 Antiquorum’s 2001 lot] and [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-25-143 2002 lot] list 10½ lignes and 19 jewels without naming a caliber; the latter combines refs. 6031 and 6074. [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/160689 Phillips] records movement G3569, and [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2025/fine-watches-pf2570/oyster-perpetual-reference-6031-montre-bracelet-en?locale=en Sotheby’s] G9307, but neither names a caliber. The assignment remains unresolved.

Antiquorum describes ref. [[Reference:2280|2280]] with a 10½-ligne, 17-jewel lever movement, Superbalance and self-compensating Breguet spring. Sotheby’s lists a 10½-size, 17-jewel movement for case 217’903 and a mechanical 17-jewel movement for case 123’375, without a size or caliber number. Watch LIFE News assigns Cal. 710 to its pictured ref. 2280. The image shows the watch but no movement view, so the caliber remains a source attribution for that example; auction catalogues describe others by jewel count or movement size. [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-82-466 Antiquorum, ref. 2280, lot 466] [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2021/watches-13/rolex-oyster-royal-reference-2280-a-stainless Sotheby’s, lot 8042] [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2026/fine-watches/reference-2280-oyster-royal-a-stainless-steel Sotheby’s, lot 403] [https://www.powerwatch.jp/2022/08/22/royal/ Watch LIFE News, 2022] [https://everywatch.com/rolex/2280/watch-9112655 Bonhams 2012 lot 127 via EveryWatch, ref. 2280, case 79,895]

Toovey’s photograph of ref. [[Reference:2318|2318]], case 033015, shows a hand-wound movement marked “15 RUBIES.” Other listings give 15 jewels, and WatchNet reports 10¾ lignes for its example. None of the reviewed descriptions names a numbered caliber. [https://www.tooveys.com/lots/558618/a-rolex-mid-size-stainless-steel-circular-cased-gentlemans-wristwatch Toovey’s] [https://www.boldtimepieces.co.uk/product-page/1934-rolex-stainless-steel-calatrava-case-bow-tie-dial-ref-2318-manual-wind Bold Timepieces] [https://www.vintagewatchcentre.com/product/rolex-model-ref-2318-1932/ Vintage Watch Centre] [https://www.watchnet.co.jp/en/item/view/6221 WatchNet]

Auction catalogues describe compatible 10- to 10½-ligne manual movements in [[Reference:2765|2765]], [[Reference:2595|2595]] and [[Reference:3009|3009]], but none of the surfaced records shows a Cal. 700 stamp. All three reference pages therefore treat the assignment as plausible rather than confirmed. The eight catalogue entries for [[Reference:1873|1873]] identify manual movements with 15–18 jewels and Extra Prima or Ultra Prima grades; the entries give no caliber designation.

Christie’s catalogues identify 18-jewel Ultra Prima chronometers timed to six positions in ref. [[Reference:2942|2942]] examples. Waecce describes the photographed movement as a 10½-line Hunter; these details support an Ultra Prima listing without a numbered-caliber assignment. [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-4211234 Christie’s, case 30,125] [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-1817520 Christie’s, 2000 lot 715] [https://www.waecce.com/products/rare-early-rolex-chronometre-scientific-wristwatch-ref-2942-c-1937 Waecce Watches]

Two Antiquorum catalogues from 1989 describe ref. [[Reference:3003|3003]] and [[Reference:3004|3004]] movements as 10-line, 15- and 17-jewel examples respectively. Neither entry names a caliber. These lot descriptions do not confirm Cal. 700 or 710 fitment in either reference.

[[Reference:6244|6244]] is the one reference in this group with a confirmed caliber stamp: Bonhams, Antiquorum, Christie's and Phillips all independently name Cal. 710 across watches spanning both of the reference's numeric case-serial bands. One Christie's catalogue instead describes the movement only by size, "Calibre 10¾," without giving the caliber number.

Watches of Knightsbridge catalogues a circa-1952 [[Reference:6056|ref. 6056]] with a 17-jewel manual-wind Cal. 710. Eguchi Vintage lists a separate seller-identified 6056 with partial serial 863*** and also names manual Cal. 710. Neither source provides a movement photograph; Eguchi says its movement was checked only. These are individual catalogue attributions, not verified reference-wide fitment. [https://watchesofknightsbridge.com/auctions/wp-content/uploads/19th-November-2016-SaleResults.pdf Watches of Knightsbridge, 19 November 2016, lot 328]; [https://eguchi-store.jp/stocklist/e21080102/ Eguchi Vintage, ref. 6056 listing]

<span id="cal-600"></span>
=== Cal. 600 ===
[[File:Cal 600 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 600, manual, Super Balance — EmmyWatch|alt=Cal. 600, manual, Super Balance — EmmyWatch]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Manual
|-
| jewels
| 17
|-
| frequency
| Not recorded
|-
| power reserve
| Not recorded
|-
| size
| 9¾ lignes (Sotheby’s description)
|-
| escapement
| Not specified in the cited lot
|-
| balance
| Patented Super Balance
|-
| regulator
| Not specified in the cited lot
|-
| shock
| None documented
|}

Cal. 600 sits one size class below the 10½-ligne 700/710/720 family and carries a patented Super Balance. Sotheby's catalogued the movement in the Mercedes Gleitze Oyster in November 2025 as a rhodium-finished Hunter-architecture base upgraded to Cal. 600. The late-1926 27mm case belongs to the watch Gleitze wore during her 21 October 1927 Channel swim attempt and is engraved "Miss M. Gleitze / The Companion 'Oyster.' Vindication Channel Swim. October 21st. 1927."

Sotheby’s describes the Gleitze watch’s movement as a 9¾-ligne Hunter upgraded to Cal. 600, with 17 jewels and a patented Super Balance. The description records an upgrade; it does not date when that work was done. Master of Time separately describes one Viceroy ref. 1573 as an Extra Prima Cal. 600 with 17 jewels and six adjustments. That is a dealer attribution for one watch, not evidence of reference-wide fitment.

The case carries Glasgow import marks for 1926/1927. A mid-1970s Rolex service box accompanies the watch, but Sotheby’s presents its association with a particular service as an assumption. Neither the box nor the case hallmark dates the movement upgrade.

The cited Sotheby’s description does not specify the escapement, regulator or shock protection. Those details need examination of the movement.

<span id="cal-59"></span>
=== Cal. 59 ===
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Manual
|-
| jewels
| 15 or 17
|-
| frequency
| Not recorded
|-
| size
| 10½ lignes (Fontainemelon FHF 30 ébauche)
|-
| escapement
| Straight-line lever
|-
| balance
| Monometallic
|-
| regulator
| Not specified in the cited lots
|-
| shock
| None documented
|}

The 10½-ligne FHF 30 was made by Fontainemelon. David Boettcher documents it in Oyster Watch Co. watches and identifies Cal. 59, with a centre-seconds 59SC version, as Tudor designations. That account does not establish a Rolex factory designation for Cal. 59. Auction catalogues use the name for individual watches: four ref. [[Reference:3478|3478]]s, one [[Reference:3121|3121]] Grenfell (case 43,475, 17 jewels), and two ref. [[Reference:3136|3136]]s. The 3121 record's structured year says circa 1938, while its notes call it a 1940s watch and attribute 1938 to the caseback. Heritage calls the FHF 30 in 3136 case 105063 “subsequently renamed Rolex caliber 59”; Waddington's labels case 147396 Cal. 59. Those are attributions in the named lot records, not proof of universal fitment or a factory naming rule. Cal. 700/710 assignments below remain family-level matches rather than photographed or catalogued stamps.

Jewel count splits 15 and 17 across the four directly-named 3478 watches; the cited 3136 lots give 15 jewels. The 3478 sample does not track cleanly with any other documented variable. [[Reference:2784|2784]] carries the same family attribution, but only at the family level: no auction catalogue names Cal. 59 outright for that reference, and the one movement image tied to a visibly stamped 2784 case has a Tudor-signed bridge that may be a later replacement.

<span id="cal-a260"></span>
=== Cal. A260 ===
[[File:Cal A260 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. A260-era movement, engraved Rolex Self Winder, Jewels, Patented|alt=Cal. A260-era movement, engraved Rolex Self Winder, Jewels, Patented]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 19
|-
| frequency
| 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 36h
|-
| size
| 26.4mm
|-
| escapement
| Straight-line lever
|-
| balance
| Superbalance, blued Breguet spring
|-
| shock
| Present (unnamed brand)
|}

A260 powered the first Submariner references, 6204 and 6205, from 1953 to 1955. "A.260" is Rolex's size-family code for this movement class, comparable to the Prince family's "T.S." code. Its non-butterfly rotor distinguishes it from the butterfly-rotor Cal. 1030. Hodinkee traces A260 to a movement used in earlier Oyster Perpetuals and later Bubblebacks, predating its Submariner fitment. The registry uses 17 jewels; some auction descriptions give 19, so the count should be checked against the individual movement.

<span id="cal-a296"></span>
=== Cal. A296 ===
[[File:Cal A296 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. A296-era rotor component, engraved Rolex Perpetual Chronometer|alt=Cal. A296-era rotor component, engraved Rolex Perpetual Chronometer]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 17 (registry; 18–19 in catalogues, depending on module counting)
|-
| frequency
| 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 36h
|-
| size
| 29.5mm
|-
| escapement
| Straight-line lever
|-
| balance
| Monometallic Superbalance
|-
| regulator
| Index
|-
| shock
| Shock absorber (775-labelled lots only)
|}

Catalogues place A296 in the early 1950s, with the registry using a working window of 1953–1956. It powered the Big Crown 6200, early Explorers 6098, 6150 "Precision," 6298, and 6350, and early Datejusts 6104 and 6105. Phillips also identifies A.296 in one 6075, case 714440; other auction catalogues name A.295 in 6075 cases. That conflict is attached to the reference page rather than treated as a universal movement rule. Its full rotor winds in one direction; it is not a bumper caliber. The 6150 and 6350 use related movements in non-chronometer and chronometer-rated watches. COSC itself was founded later, in 1973. "A.296" is Rolex's size-family code and 775 its commercial number, so listings may use either designation for the same movement. Cal. 1030 replaced it in the mid-1950s with bidirectional winding, a butterfly rotor, and a thinner automatic module. Phillips identifies that reduced thickness as the change that eliminated the domed Bubbleback caseback.

The movement has a straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance, self-compensating Breguet balance spring, and index regulator. Catalogues using the commercial number 775 also specify six-position adjustment and a shock absorber. A.296 is a broader designation than a unique caliber stamp; catalogue usage needs checking against the individual movement.

Christie's describes a 6150 balance as a "patented Super-balance," linking it to Aegler patent CH196706 and the recessed timing screws used on [[#cal-300|Cal. 300]]. Published jewel counts vary because some catalogues separate the going train from the automatic module. Figures of 18 and 19 appear for the base movement, with another two or seven assigned to the rotor module. One 6150 is described as a 19-jewel movement with a two-jewel automatic module. A bare jewel total in a reference table does not reveal which components were counted.

<span id="cal-645"></span>
=== Cal. 645 ===
[[File:Cal 645 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 645 winding bridge, engraved "Rolex Perpetual Chronometer, Super-Balance, Patented" — EmmyWatch|alt=Cal. 645 winding bridge, engraved "Rolex Perpetual Chronometer, Super-Balance, Patented" — EmmyWatch]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 17–20
|-
| frequency
| 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 41h
|-
| size
| 26.4mm
|-
| escapement
| Straight-line lever
|-
| balance
| Superbalance, timed to 6 positions
|-
| regulator
| Index
|-
| shock
| Shock absorber
|}

Cal. 645 belongs to the Cal. 600 family and shares the A.260 size code with Cal. 635. The distinctions are functional: Cal. 630 has sweep seconds without shock protection, Cal. 635 has small seconds with shock protection, and Cal. 645 combines sweep seconds with shock protection. Cal. 645 powered the semi-Bubbleback Oyster Perpetual refs 6084, 6085, and 6284 around 1948–1953. Hodinkee's listing for ref. 6108 case 803948 identifies Cal. 645. Antike Uhren Eder's 1952 listing for ref. 6108, item 7140rol, also identifies Cal. 645; it gives no case or serial number, so its identity relative to the other listed watches cannot be checked. Heritage's 2012 lot for case 803'752 lists the movement as F 64550, with no caliber designation. Auction catalogues give 17 to 20 jewels, consistent with both differing counting conventions and market-specific tariff variants found elsewhere in the family.

Catalogue labels for ref. 6085 do not agree. [https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/rolex-oyster-perpetual-reference-6085-with-waffle-dial Hodinkee Shop] and [https://amsterdamvintagewatches.com/shop/rolex-oyster-perpetual-6085/ a second dealer listing] call their examples A260; Christie’s, Phillips, Schmitt-Horan, and Dorotheum identify Cal. 645 in theirs. Since A.260 is a size-family code rather than a unique commercial caliber name, keep each label tied to its listing unless the movement itself can be checked.

The movement uses a straight-line lever escapement, Superbalance adjusted to six positions, shock absorber, self-compensating Breguet balance spring, and index regulator. Some catalogues use "monometallic balance timed to 6 positions" instead of Superbalance. Both terms describe a monometallic balance with recessed timing screws.

Watch Doctor’s chart groups Cal. 635 and 645 under A.260 and assigns both to 1950. That online entry is not an identified factory production record.

Antiquorum catalogued a subsidiary-seconds [[Reference:3599|ref. 3599]] as Cal. 635 with 19 jewels and described the caliber as 9¾ ligne, made from 1940 to 1951. The catalogue’s 1940–1951 span differs from Watch Doctor’s 1950 entry. Christie's also catalogued a visibly centre-seconds 3599 as Cal. 635, which conflicts with the caliber's small-seconds architecture. Without movement photographs, the Christie's caliber entry is best treated as a catalogue error rather than evidence for a centre-seconds Cal. 635.

Jewel counts also vary according to whether a catalogue includes the automatic module. Bonhams describes the related [[#cal-745|Cal. 745]] as "18 jewels plus 7 rotor jewels." Its 20-jewel description of a Cal. 645 in a 6085 should remain attached to that example; it does not establish a universal jewel count.

<span id="cal-740"></span>
=== Cal. 740 ===
[[File:Cal 740 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 740 in a reference 4467 Datejust, case back removed, rotor engraved "Rolex Perpetual Chronometer, Super Balance, Vis Tirette"|alt=Cal. 740 in a reference 4467 Datejust, case back removed, rotor engraved "Rolex Perpetual Chronometer, Super Balance, Vis Tirette"]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 26 in the cited Antiquorum lot
|-
| frequency
| 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| Not recorded
|-
| size
| 10½ lignes in the cited catalogue
|-
| escapement
| Straight-line lever
|-
| balance
| Superbalance, adjusted to 6 positions
|-
| regulator
| Not specified in the cited 740 lot
|-
| shock
| Not named in 740 lot text
|}

Antiquorum catalogues Cal. 740 in a Datejust ref. 4467 with a date display. Its Geneva 2002 lot 486 describes the reference as produced from 1945 to 1949. The catalogue supports the caliber identification in that watch; it does not establish the exact introduction date of every movement fitted during the reference's run.

The 10½-ligne rhodium-plated movement has a straight-line lever escapement, Superbalance adjusted to six positions, and self-compensating Breguet balance spring. Some catalogues substitute "monometallic balance adjusted to 6 positions" for Superbalance, as they do for Cal. 645. No Cal. 740 description names the regulator. Antiquorum describes an index regulator on its A.295-attributed ref. 6075, case 714441 ([2014 lot 107](https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-6075-lot-283-107)); that is a separate catalogue attribution, not evidence that A.295 and Cal. 740 are interchangeable names.

Antiquorum gives 26 jewels for its Cal. 740 example. That count should be kept with the source's description. A different count in a reference table may reflect a counting convention or a different execution; the number alone does not settle which.

Antiquorum also assigns Cal. 740 to manual-wind [[Reference:6094|ref. 6094]], usually with 17 jewels. Its 2008 lot labels the case 6094/6294; the 2010 and 2012 lots identify ref. 6094 alone. The 2018 listing for case 882812 calls the watch self-winding in its headline while the specification field gives Cal. 740. Keep these as lot-level attributions: the records do not establish that the 6094 Cal. 740 is the automatic 26-jewel movement documented here for ref. 4467. [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-203-530 Antiquorum, lot 530]; [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-242-134 Antiquorum, lot 134]; [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-6094-tropical-lot-262-291 Antiquorum, lot 291]; [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-6094-oysterdate-precision-lot-313-138 Antiquorum, lot 138].

Surviving examples can have replacement movements or parts. A reference launch date should not be assigned automatically to the movement now inside a particular case.

The cited Cal. 740 lot does not identify a shock-protection system or regulator. Inspect those components rather than infer them from silence in a catalogue.

<span id="cal-a295"></span>
=== Cal. A.295 in Datejust auction records ===

Antiquorum identifies ref. 6075 case 714441 as A.295, with a 10½-ligne movement, 19 jewels and an index regulator ([2014 lot 107](https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-6075-lot-283-107)). Christie's also calls a circa-1950 ref. 6075 A.295 ([case 699455](https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6042730)). Phillips, however, identifies ref. 6075 case 714440 as A.296 ([2015 lot 284](https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080515/284)). The catalogues do not establish whether this reflects a production change, differing usage or a later movement. Check the actual stamp before assigning a caliber.

Keep this A.295 attribution separate from [[#cal-a295-cpl|A.295 CPL]], the complete calendar and moonphase movement catalogued in ref. 8171.

<span id="cal-745"></span>
=== Cal. 745 ===
[[File:Cal 745 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 745, gilt rotor engraved "Rolex Perpetual Chronometer, Super Balance" — EmmyWatch|alt=Cal. 745, gilt rotor engraved "Rolex Perpetual Chronometer, Super Balance" — EmmyWatch]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 18 + 7 rotor
|-
| frequency
| 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 42h
|-
| size
| 29.5mm
|-
| escapement
| Straight-line lever
|-
| balance
| Superbalance
|-
| regulator
| Index
|-
| shock
| Shock absorber
|}

Cal. 745 is an automatic calendar movement used in early Datejust references. Cal. 740 is also catalogued with a date display, so the calendar alone does not distinguish the two calibers.

Bonhams describes a Cal. 745 in a ref. 6305 as rhodium-plated, with 18 jewels plus seven rotor jewels, a straight-line lever escapement, Superbalance, shock absorber, self-compensating blued-steel Breguet balance spring, and index regulator. Eighteen base-movement jewels plus seven rotor jewels gives 25. That arithmetic does not explain a catalogue count of 26; compare the actual movement before treating the descriptions as equivalent.

Cal. 745 appears in the Datejust "Ovettone" group. Documented examples include a circa 1955 18K yellow-gold ref. 6305, case 97602; a ref. 6105 with 1952 Glasgow import marks and movement H78230; and a circa 1955 ref. 6304 with movement 99698/H46452. Other ref. 6105 examples use A296, placing the reference across the boundary between the A.295 and A.296 groups. The claimed Cal. 745 fitment in ref. 6039 is unverified; no supporting lot description or confirmed Rolex ref. 6039 has been identified.

<span id="precision-family"></span>
<span id="calendar-moonphase"></span>
== Calendar and moonphase ==

<span id="cal-a295-cpl"></span>
=== Cal. A.295 CPL ===

{| class="wikitable"
! Detail !! Value
|-
| Type || Automatic complete calendar with moonphase
|-
| Size || 10½ lignes
|-
| Jewels || 18 in the cited examples
|-
| Seconds || Subsidiary seconds at 6, sharing the moonphase subdial
|-
| Reference || [[Reference:8171|8171 Padellone]]
|}

Auction catalogues call the 8171 movement A.295 CPL, A295 or simply 10½ lignes. Day and month appear in windows; a central pointer reads the outer date scale. Four recessed correctors adjust month (near 2), date (near 4), moonphase (near 8) and weekday (near 10). [https://www.christies.com/lot/lot-5195914 Christie’s, 8171 case 685878]; [https://www.fratellowatches.com/a-few-complicated-rolex-watches-from-the-archives/ Giorgia Mondani, 2020]

The contemporary 6062 uses a different movement. Christie’s catalogues its 6062 case 916321 with caliber 655. Matching calendar displays do not establish interchangeable calibers. [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6185890 Christie’s, 6062 case 916321]

== Oyster and Oysterdate Precision ==

Precision is Rolex's non-chronometer manual line, a 10½-ligne family built alongside the automatic Bubblebacks. The Oysterdate Precision 6694 remained in production through the end of the 1980s, a year beyond the hand-wound Daytona; one surviving lot includes a 1990/1991 Rolex calendar card. Rolex continued making manual-wind watches after the 6694: the Cellini Danaos used Cal. 1602 into 2008, and the chronometer-certified Cellini Prince used Cal. 7040 until about 2015. The small-seconds Cal. 1240 also carried this architecture into the platinum Cellinium 5240 and 5241. Seconds placement, date and beat rate distinguish the seven commercial numbers. Rolex's parts plates identify Cal. 1210 as the base for 1200, 1215, 1220, 1225 and 1240.

<span id="cal-1210"></span>
=== Cal. 1210 ===
[[File:Cal 1210 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 1210 in a 1960 Oysterdate Precision ref. 6466, movement in case|alt=Cal. 1210 in a 1960 Oysterdate Precision ref. 6466, movement in case]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Manual
|-
| jewels
| 18 (factory plate) · 17 (as signed and catalogued)
|-
| frequency
| 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| ~58h
|-
| size
| 10½′′′ / Ø23.80mm × 4.27mm height
|-
| escapement
| Straight-line lever, jewelled pallet fork
|-
| balance
| Glucydur, screwed rim, Breguet overcoil
|-
| regulator
| Index with movable stud support
|-
| shock
| KIF-pattern on documented later examples; earliest examples may lack protection
|}

Rolex's parts plates identify Cal. 1210 as the family's architectural base and file the small-seconds 1200 as a derivative. The parts plates support Horbiter's identification of Cal. 1210 as the base; Fratello names Cal. 1200.

The jewel count remains unclear. Rolex specifies 18 jewels for the two no-date calibers and 17 for the date versions, yet known movements are signed "Seventeen Jewels" and major-house catalogues consistently give 17. Both counts are documented, but their distribution among watches has not been established. Contemporary American import duties taxed jewel count and also account for the "UNADJUSTED" stamps found on some movements.

The balance is Glucydur with a Breguet overcoil, as specified on the sibling Cal. 1200 plate. Regulation uses a conventional index and movable stud, with adjusting washers in five thicknesses. It is not free-sprung; Rolex reserved Microstella for its 12½-ligne chronometers.

The pallet fork runs in jewels, while the escape wheel has shock-mounted settings and cap jewels on both pivots, matching the treatment of the balance. Indirect centre seconds, driven from the fourth wheel through a friction-sprung pinion, can produce seconds-hand flutter even in a healthy movement. The earliest examples may lack shock protection; Antiquorum's 1946 ref. 4560 description names none.

Documented fitments include refs. 3745, 4560, 6420, 6422, 6426/6427, 6466, 6480, 6482, 6494, 9083 and 9659. Bonhams also records a ref. 6694 with a III.60 caseback date on Cal. 1210.

<span id="cal-1215"></span>
=== Cal. 1215 ===
[[File:Cal 1215 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 1215 in a movement holder, from a 1962 Oyster Date Precision ref. 6694 service|alt=Cal. 1215 in a movement holder, from a 1962 Oyster Date Precision ref. 6694 service]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Manual
|-
| jewels
| 17
|-
| frequency
| 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| ~58h
|-
| size
| 10½′′′ / Ø23.80mm × 5.07mm height
|-
| escapement
| Straight-line lever
|-
| balance
| Glucydur, Breguet overcoil (via base 1210) · flat in one lot
|-
| regulator
| Index with movable stud support
|-
| shock
| KIF-pattern
|-
| date
| Non-quickset, dragging change
|}

Cal. 1215 adds a calendar to the 1210, increasing movement height from 4.27mm to 5.07mm. Its two-page parts sheet covers only the calendar mechanism and defers the rest to Cal. 1210. Date discs came in champagne, silvered, and champagne with red-and-black printing.

The hairspring is disputed. The parts plates imply the 1210's Breguet overcoil because the 1215 sheet specifies no separate balance. Antiquorum describes one ref. 9996 with a flat hairspring and index regulator, but uses Breguet wording elsewhere. No catalogue describes the caliber as free-sprung.

Cal. 1215 uses a gradual date change rather than a direct quickset. The date begins moving before midnight and seats as the mechanism completes its cycle.

Christie's places the ref. 6494 changeover between a circa-1956 example with Cal. 1210 and a circa-1958 example with 1215. Other documented fitments include the Speedking 6430, early 6694 production, and refs. 9996/9919.

<span id="cal-1216"></span>
=== Cal. 1216 ===
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Manual (assumed, by family)
|-
| jewels
| not documented
|-
| status
| Number attested in the parts trade only
|}

Almost nothing is known about Cal. 1216. The common description of it as a 17-jewel Cal. 1215 variant has no traceable support.

Rolex's surviving parts plates cover 1200, 1210, 1215, 1220, 1225 and 1240, but omit 1216. No major-house lot identifies a Rolex Cal. 1216, and Heritage's apparent example is a case reference. Confusion is also possible with Ronda's contemporary 1216 movement.

The parts trade nevertheless records it as a Rolex number. Cas-Ker's genuine-parts catalogue places 1216 between 1215 and 1220 and lists crown-wheel screw 1216.5420, following Rolex's caliber-prefixed numbering convention.

The parts catalogue attests the Cal. 1216 designation. Its jewel count, seconds layout, beat rate and fitments remain unknown. Published specifications derived from the 1215 are unconfirmed.

<span id="cal-1220"></span>
=== Cal. 1220 ===
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Manual
|-
| jewels
| 18 (factory plate) · 17 (as signed)
|-
| frequency
| 21,600 vph (3 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| ~58h
|-
| size
| 10½′′′ / Ø23.80mm × 4.27mm height
|-
| escapement
| Straight-line lever
|-
| balance
| Screwless, inertia blocks, flat hairspring
|-
| regulator
| Index with movable stud support
|-
| shock
| KIF-pattern
|}

Cal. 1220 raises the 1210 platform to 21,600 vph and uses a different oscillator. Both its parts plate and the 1978 third edition of Rolex's ''Technical and Service Information'' give that rate. The sometimes-published 19,800 vph figure is unsupported.

The higher-beat generation replaces the 1210's screwed Glucydur balance and Breguet overcoil with a smooth-rimmed balance and flat hairspring. Gilt and nickel-plated inertia blocks provide about ten seconds per day of fine adjustment across their range; the index handles larger corrections. Separate regulator, stud-support and regulating-stud parts confirm that this is an index-regulated movement, not a free-sprung one.

Cal. 1220 appears mainly in the oversize ref. 8029, but its dates conflict. Phillips gives 1950, Antiquorum dates case 714105 to about 1951, and Sotheby's dates that same case to about 1961 without naming its caliber. The earlier dates sit awkwardly beside the later-1960s siblings and remain unresolved. Claims that 1220 movements were commonly signed 1225, including those in later ref. 6426 production, are unverified.

<span id="cal-1225"></span>
=== Cal. 1225 ===
[[File:Cal 1225 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 1225 in a ref. 6694 Oysterdate Precision, bridges marked "Montres Rolex S.A. Swiss"|alt=Cal. 1225 in a ref. 6694 Oysterdate Precision, bridges marked "Montres Rolex S.A. Swiss"]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Manual
|-
| jewels
| 17
|-
| frequency
| 21,600 vph (3 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| ~58h
|-
| size
| 10½′′′ / Ø23.80mm × 5.07mm height
|-
| escapement
| Straight-line lever
|-
| balance
| Screwless, inertia blocks, flat hairspring
|-
| regulator
| Index with movable stud support
|-
| shock
| KIF
|-
| date
| Non-quickset, dragging change
|}

Cal. 1225 adds a calendar to the 1220 and carried the Oysterdate Precision 6694 through its final years. Rolex's plate specifies a timed flat hairspring with gilt and nickel-plated inertia blocks, consistent with Antiquorum's descriptions of refs. 6426 and 6694. Published claims of a Breguet overcoil conflict with the factory plate and auction record. Bonhams' reference to a "Gyromax balance" is a cataloguing error; Gyromax is Patek Philippe's free-sprung system.

Rolex used "Precision" on uncertified manual and automatic movements, including the Air-King 5500. On Cal. 1225, the "UNADJUSTED" stamp records an import-duty classification.

The caliber does not hack. The 1210 parts plate contains no stop lever or hack spring, and Rolex's 1978 service book covers hacking only for the late 1500 series and the 2030/2035.

For an Oysterdate Precision with Cal. 1225, service requirements depend on the condition of the individual watch. Rolex’s published procedure begins with a watchmaker’s examination and an estimate. It does not promise routine acceptance of every vintage caliber or a particular rate and power reserve after service.

Documented fitments include refs. 6426, 6466 and, most often, 6694 from the late 1960s through at least 1979. Comparison of a 1966 ref. 6694 with Cal. 1215 and a 1973 example with 1225 places the changeover around 1967.

<span id="cal-1200"></span>
=== Cal. 1200 ===
[[File:Cal 1200 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 1200, bridges marked "Montres Rolex S.A. Geneva Swiss, Seventeen 17 Jewels", from a Rolex Precision service|alt=Cal. 1200, bridges marked "Montres Rolex S.A. Geneva Swiss, Seventeen 17 Jewels", from a Rolex Precision service]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Manual
|-
| jewels
| 17
|-
| frequency
| 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| ~58h
|-
| size
| 10½′′′ / Ø23.80mm × 3.65mm height
|-
| escapement
| Straight-line lever, jewelled pallet fork and staff
|-
| balance
| Glucydur, Breguet overcoil
|-
| regulator
| Index with movable stud support
|-
| shock
| "Rolex Shockresisting" device
|}

Cal. 1200 is the family's small-seconds variant and, at 3.65mm, its thinnest member. Moving the seconds from the centre to a subdial requires a separate main plate and train-wheel bridge rather than an added module. The plate, bridge, third and fourth wheels, pallet fork and staff are jewelled.

The bilingual parts plate specifies Rolex's own "Shockresisting" device rather than a trade name. It lists a pivoted Glucydur balance with roller and a regulated Glucydur balance with Breguet hairspring, the 18,000-vph oscillator inherited by the 1210 and 1215.

The caliber number is engraved in the balance-wheel hub sinking rather than on a bridge or the main plate. The same document directs watchmakers to Cal. 1210 for all shared parts, confirming the family's parentage.

No major-house lot names Cal. 1200, so its fitments remain unestablished. The high-beat small-seconds Cal. 1240 is better documented in the platinum Cellinium 5240 and 5241, with a monometallic balance adjusted to four positions and a flat hairspring. That caliber kept the architecture in production for about a decade after the Oysterdate ended.

<span id="sport-vintage"></span>
== Vintage sport calibers (Submariner, GMT-Master, Explorer, Air-King) ==

The A-series and Cal. 1030 preceded the long-running 15xx family. Cal. 1520 became its main uncertified movement, while Cals. 1560 and 1570 supplied chronometer-rated sport references into the 1980s.

<span id="cal-1030"></span>
=== Cal. 1030 ===
[[File:Cal 1030 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 1030, engraved "1030," 25 jewels, butterfly rotor|alt=Cal. 1030, engraved "1030," 25 jewels, butterfly rotor]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 25
|-
| frequency
| 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 42h
|-
| size
| 28.5mm × 5.85mm
|-
| escapement
| Straight-line lever
|-
| balance
| Monometallic, blued Breguet spring
|-
| shock
| KIF
|}

Cal. 1030 is a bidirectionally wound automatic used in 1950s Oyster references. Its 5.85mm profile ended the domed Bubbleback caseback, while the cutaway "butterfly" rotor stamped ROLEX PERPETUAL PATENTED is the usual visual identifier. Finishing includes perlage on the rhodium-plated main plate, brushed bridges, polished screw heads and red anodized-aluminium reversing wheels. A conventional index regulates the movement; the visible regulator arm distinguishes it from the later free-sprung 1560 and 1570. Documented fitments include ref. 6098 from 1952, Oyster Perpetual 6502 and 6567, Submariners 6536, 6536-1 and 6538, Explorer 6610 and Air-King 6552. Artcurial, Antiquorum and Sotheby’s catalogue 6502 examples with Cal. 1030; Watch-Wiki independently lists the association. The case 36701 records conflict: the Invaluable archive of Monaco Legend labels it 6502, while Phillips identifies that case as 6603. The competing catalogue attributions leave its reference unresolved. [https://www.invaluable.com/auction-lot/rolex-oyster-perpetual-ref-6502-honeycomb-dial-166-c-8e042b2aae Invaluable archive of Monaco Legend, lot 166]; [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/134192 Phillips, lot 254] The Field Manual and several auction catalogues identify Cal. 1030 in Oyster Perpetual 6567 examples; Ineichen lists Cal. 1050 for one 6567. Other catalogues assign Cal. 1050 to refs. 6564, 6569 and Submariner 6536/1. These are descriptions of individual watches; the Cal. 1050 entry records the competing attributions.

<span id="cal-1035"></span>
=== Cal. 1035 ===
[[File:Cal 1035 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 1035, rotor engraved "Rolex Perpetual Patented" — EmmyWatch|alt=Cal. 1035, rotor engraved "Rolex Perpetual Patented" — EmmyWatch]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 25
|-
| frequency
| 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 42h
|-
| size
| 28.5mm × 6.66mm
|-
| escapement
| Straight-line lever
|-
| balance
| Monometallic, temp + 5 positions
|-
| regulator
| Index (Cal. 1030 base)
|-
| shock
| Shock absorber
|}

Cal. 1035 adds a date to the 1030 and appeared in 1957. Documented fitments include Oyster Perpetual Date refs. 6518, 6530 and 6534. Auction catalogues for ref. 6609 name Cal. 1065 or 1066; Phillips lot 118 lists Cal. 1030. Rolex describes the 1035's non-quickset calendar as "progressive": the date moves gradually through the night, unlike the instant-change 1036 GMT.

The 1035 inherits the 1030's conventional index regulator. Although auction descriptions do not name the regulator, the production dates and shared base support the index arrangement.

Rolex stamped the 1035's self-winding bridge "1030," as it also did on the 1036. This causes auction catalogues to identify the same reference under both numbers. The calendar work and 6.66mm height distinguish the 1035 from the 5.85mm no-date 1030. A correct ref. 6534 contains a 1035 regardless of its bridge engraving.

<span id="cal-1040"></span>
=== Cal. 1040 ===
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 26 in examined catalogue descriptions
|-
| function
| Dead-beat centre seconds
|-
| base
| Modified Cal. 1030 architecture
|-
| documented fitment
| Oyster Perpetual Tru-Beat ref. 6556
|}

Cal. 1040 powers the Oyster Perpetual Tru-Beat [[Reference:6556|6556]]. Its centre seconds hand pauses at each marker and advances once per second. Christie’s calls it a modified Cal. 1030; watchmaker Aaron Berlow’s account of a single restoration identifies a longer second intermediate wheel for the dead-beat mechanism. His report supports the relationship between the two calibres, but does not establish that every 1030 part is interchangeable.

Christie’s, Phillips and Antiquorum catalogue 26 jewels on the examined examples. Phillips also catalogues one watch as ref. 6558 with an inner caseback stamped 6556 and Cal. 1040; that lot does not establish general 6558 fitment. The available records do not establish a changeover sequence, beat rate, power reserve, or full production interval for the 1040. Auction essays place the 6556 introduction in 1954 and often give 1959 as its end; later-dated 6556 lots make the cutoff uncertain. Those dates describe the watch reference and should not be treated as a verified movement production range.

Hodinkee’s 2016 review says the dead-beat function was often removed during service, though the photographed example still worked. Watchmaker Aaron Berlow wrote in 2015 that reports of Rolex replacing the 1040 module with 1030 parts were internet hearsay he had not seen first-hand. These accounts do not establish a service frequency or document a specific replaced movement.

Antiquorum and Dr. Crott report that a 1960 Rolex catalogue proposed ref. 1020 as a successor to the 6556 and that the model was never produced. Neither source reproduces the catalogue page in the reviewed listing; this remains an attributed historical note. No production caliber or fitment is established for 1020, so it is not indexed as a movement.

<span id="cal-1050"></span>
=== Cal. 1050 ===
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic, as described in the cited catalogues
|-
| jewels
| 25 in the Antiquorum 6564, Bonhams 6569, and Christie's 6536/1 descriptions
|-
| catalogue attributions
| Oyster Perpetual refs. 6564, 6567 and 6569; Submariner ref. 6536/1
|}

Several auction catalogues identify Cal. 1050 in watches dated to the 1950s. Antiquorum names it in a ref. 6564; Bonhams in a ref. 6569; Christie's in a Submariner 6536/1; and Ineichen in a ref. 6567. The 6564 and 6567 also appear in records naming Cal. 1030. These are catalogued assignments to individual watches. Cal. 1050’s technical relationship to Cal. 1030 and any changeover sequence remain unresolved. [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-63-114 Antiquorum, ref. 6564, lot 114] [https://images3.bonhams.com/original?src=Images%2Flive%2F2015-04%2F23%2FS-22886-0-1.pdf Bonhams, ref. 6569, lot 312] [https://www.christies.com/lot/lot-rolex-a-rare-stainless-steel-automatic-wristwatch-5892833/ Christie's, Submariner ref. 6536/1] [https://ineichen.com/auctions/timed-83/4/ Ineichen, ref. 6567, lot 4]

<span id="cal-1530"></span>
=== Cal. 1530 ===
[[File:Cal 1530 butterfly rotor.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 1530-era butterfly rotor halves, Rolex coronet stamped|alt=Cal. 1530-era butterfly rotor halves, Rolex coronet stamped]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 17 / 25 / 26 (market variants)
|-
| frequency
| 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 42h (registry; 44h in some secondary tables)
|-
| size
| 12½′′′
|-
| escapement
| Swiss lever, club-tooth
|-
| balance
| Screwed Glucydur
|-
| regulator
| Index (coarse) + micro-star fine-adjust screws
|-
| shock
| KIF, form-dependent (Flector or Elastor)
|}

Cal. 1530 ran from 1957 to 1965. Its 17-, 25- and 26-jewel versions are concurrent market variants, not a chronological progression. Seventeen-jewel movements appear in a 1958-era ref. 5508 and a 5500, and Rolex’s Technical and Service Information, third edition, discusses the 1520 and 1530 families in its servicing instructions.

Cal. 1530 is the base for the 1520, 1560, 1570 and 1580. They share plates and many service parts, including interchangeable automatic-device bridges, so the engraved bridge number may not identify the movement beneath it. Balance-bridge and regulator form are more reliable.

Regulation combines an index for coarse adjustment with two pairs of micro-star fine-adjustment screws on the outer balance rim. Turning a screw clockwise draws it inward and gains rate. The system resembles Microstella, and Horotec lists the same adjustment tool for the 1530 and later Microstella calibers, but Rolex reserved the Micro-Stella name for its free-sprung 12½-ligne chronometer movements. The 1530 retains an index.

The form-1 balance cock uses KIF Flector; forms 3 and 4 use Elastor, with form 2 also assigned to Flector by specialist comparisons. Interchangeable bridges mean an individual movement's shock setting may not match its engraved caliber number.

The hairspring remains disputed. Antiquorum consistently describes a Breguet overcoil and index regulator, while much of the reference literature gives a flat hairspring with stick regulation. Reliable sources support both descriptions.

Chronometer status also varies. Sotheby's describes the 1530 as uncertified, while Phillips and Christie's identify chronometer examples in the 5504 family. Rare 5512 and 5508 watches with four-line chronometer dials and Cal. 1530 have been reported, though no major-house lot confirms them. Certification appears to have been occasional. The Microstella-equipped 1555 and 1560 became the regular chronometer alternatives used in early refs. 1675 and 1016.

The rotor changed from butterfly to half-moon during production. Later movements also gained blued automatic-bridge screws and coloured reversing wheels in place of brass-coloured gears. Rolex describes the red wheel finish as a hardening treatment for aluminium introduced in 1957; collector descriptions often call the wheels purple and Teflon-coated. Rotor and reversing-wheel form help date an example.

The 1530 first entered the Submariner in ref. 5508, followed by 5510; neither was chronometer-rated at launch. It replaced the 10-series in non-chronometer watches, including Precision models, the Air-King, ref. 5504 "Super-Precision" Explorer and the Canadian Explorer-Date with Cal. 1535. Certified models such as the 6542 GMT, 6610 Explorer, Datejust and Day-Date retained 10xx calibers for longer. Strongly documented fitments include refs. 5508, 5510, 5512, 5513, 5500 and 5504. Single-lot support exists for 5501, 5502, 5506 and 5516. Bonhams listings for refs. 1002 and 1003 are internally inconsistent and remain unconfirmed. Bonhams lot 84 lists caliber 1530 in ref. 1003 case 573,835 and notes a chronometer certificate dated 22 December 1960. The catalogue is the evidence for this individual attribution; it does not resolve why common reference tables omit the 1530 for 1003. Antiquorum’s 1996 Milan catalogue assigns Cal. 1530 to a 14ct Eaton’s watch catalogued as ref. 1011 and dated broadly to the 1950s. Loupe This photos show a 1530-stamped movement in a case marked 5590 on the flank and 5590/1011 inside. Antiquorum’s 2007 and Finarte’s 2024 catalogues also use the combined designation for Eaton’s watches. The 1996 and 2023 records may describe one watch; the 2007 and 2024 lots identify different named or case-numbered examples. Antiquorum’s 2002 catalogue assigns Cal. 1530, with 26 jewels, to one ref. 1014 example ([https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-32-492 lot 492]); see [[Reference:1014|ref. 1014]].

Rolex specifies a 0.122–0.125mm mainspring for the 18,000-vph 1530 and 1560, against up to 0.125 or 0.128mm for the higher-beat 1520 and 1570. Early unjewelled barrel-bridge arbor holes can wear; Rolex prescribed closing the hole or reaming it for a jewel, while later production received a bushing. Rotor-axle wear is another known fault. On the 1560, a hard shock could push the hairspring into the regulator. Rolex supplied a safety pin free of charge and later made it standard, so both guarded and unguarded examples are correct.

<span id="cal-1520"></span>
=== Cal. 1520 ===
[[File:Cal 1520 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 1520, engraved "1520," EmmyWatch|alt=Cal. 1520, engraved "1520," EmmyWatch]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 17 / 25 / 26
|-
| frequency
| 19,800 vph (2.8 Hz)
|-
| size
| 12½′′′
|-
| escapement
| Straight-line lever
|-
| balance
| Monometallic, screwless, flat hairspring
|-
| regulator
| Index (coarse) + two inertia blocks
|-
| shock
| KIF
|}

Produced from 1963 to 1990, Cal. 1520 is the non-chronometer, higher-beat derivative of the 1530. Rolex pairs the 18,000-vph 1530 with the 1560, and the 19,800-vph 1520 with its certified counterpart, the 1570.

Rolex describes regulation by an index and two inertia blocks, one gilt and one nickel-plated, on a screwless balance with a flat hairspring. Turning their splits inward slows the movement and outward gains rate, with about ten seconds per day across the adjustment range. The index handles coarse changes. This differs from both the 1530's micro-star screws and the 1570's free-sprung Microstella system.

Certified calibers use free-sprung Microstella regulation; Cal. 1520 uses an index and inertia blocks.

Rolex’s Technical and Service Information, third edition, describes Cal. 1520’s regulator and inertia blocks. Two Bonhams descriptions call the 1520's balance "free-sprung Gyromax," an error that applies Patek Philippe's trademark to an index-regulated Rolex movement.

Auction descriptions consistently give a flat hairspring, apart from one 2013 Antiquorum outlier that says Breguet. Shock protection is KIF in Flector or Elastor form, identified by balance-bridge and regulator shape. That shape is more reliable than the engraved caliber number because bridges interchange across the series.

The 17-, 25- and 26-jewel counts are concurrent market variants. The 17-jewel version uses a different main plate and bridges, altered escape-wheel pivot geometry, and bushings in place of jewels in the automatic module. Jewel count alone does not establish the rate or condition of an individual movement. Dated examples place 17- and 26-jewel movements together from the mid-1960s, with 25-jewel examples running alongside them.

American tariffs rose sharply above 17 jewels, but Rolex did not document this as the reason for the low-jewel version. Seventeen-jewel movements also reached Europe and Asia, so general cost reduction remains another possibility. The American presentation ref. 7002 has a rotor marked "SEVENTEEN JEWELS" and "UN" for unadjusted, both relevant to the tariff schedule, but this does not settle the question.

Documented fitments include the 5513, 5514 COMEX, 5517 military Submariner, 5500 Air-King and 5520. Ref. 1002 uses chronometer calibers 1530 or 1570; apparent 1520 examples are ref. 5500 cases with 1002 stamped inside the caseback. Ref. 5501 remains unconfirmed. Hacking arrived as a running change around 1972 through parts 8073 and 8074. Two lines above six o'clock identify the non-chronometer dial, against four on certified models.

The barrel bridge and arbor hole are known wear points. Rolex prescribed closing a worn hole or reaming it for a 2.30mm jewel; a later beryllium bushing largely solved the problem. Rotor axles and autowinder wheels also wear, and replacement parts are scarce. Gritty manual winding is normal because the reversers run without lubrication.

<span id="cal-1535"></span>
=== Cal. 1535 ===
[[File:Cal 1535 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 1535, EmmyWatch|alt=Cal. 1535, EmmyWatch]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 26
|-
| frequency
| 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 42h
|-
| size
| 28.5mm
|-
| escapement
| Swiss lever
|-
| balance
| Monometallic, screwed
|-
| regulator
| Index, pre-Microstella
|-
| shock
| Shock-absorber
|}

Cal. 1535 is the non-chronometer date version of the 1530, introduced in 1957 for the Air-King-Date 5700/5701. Monochrome likewise assigns both calibers to the 5700, with 1535 first.

Auction houses usually catalogue refs. 5700 and 5701 under the base caliber. Antiquorum assigns a 1963 ref. 5700 to Cal. 1530 and a 1972 example to 1520, though neither base movement has a date. Those entries agree with Rolex's grouping of 1535 components under Cal. 1530 and 1525 components under Cal. 1520, but they do not identify the fitted caliber.

No auction lot identifies a Cal. 1535 directly, so the listed mechanical figures come from its Cal. 1530 base. Evidence for the hairspring conflicts: auction wording gives a flat spring, while Rolex balance assembly 7855 for the 1530 uses a Breguet overcoil. Repeated catalogue boilerplate is more likely than a separate variant. The 1535 predates Microstella and uses an index with a screwed balance, consistent with the 5700's Precision grade.

Although Cal. 1530 was phased out by 1965, its 1535 date derivative remained in the Air-King-Date into the late 1980s.

<span id="cal-1525"></span>
=== Cal. 1525 ===
[[File:Cal 1525 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 1525, EmmyWatch|alt=Cal. 1525, EmmyWatch]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 17 / 25
|-
| frequency
| 19,800 vph (2.8 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 42h
|-
| size
| 28.5mm
|-
| escapement
| Swiss lever
|-
| balance
| Monometallic, flat hairspring
|-
| regulator
| Index
|-
| shock
| Shock-absorber
|}

Cal. 1525 is the higher-beat, non-chronometer date version of the 1520. Introduced in 1965, it carried the Air-King-Date 5700/5701 through later production. Contemporary chronometer-rated Oyster Perpetual Date references used a related 1500-series caliber instead.

Auction catalogues often label the date-equipped Cal. 1525 as Cal. 1520. Antiquorum does so on a 1972 ref. 5700, while describing the expected flat hairspring and index-regulated architecture. The chronometer-grade 1560 and 1570 use a Breguet overcoil and Microstella. The Cal. 1525 uses the index regulation associated with the uncertified 5700.

Jewel counts of 17, 25 and 26 reflect parallel market executions. Rolex balance-assembly numbers confirm a flat hairspring for the 1520 and 1525, against a Breguet spring on the 1530 and Microstella on the 1560. The 1525 remains index-regulated. Waddington’s identifies Cal. 1520, 26 jewels, in a circa-1965 Eaton’s ¼ Century Club watch catalogued as ref. 1011, case 1,301,143. See [[Reference:1011|ref. 1011]].

<span id="cal-1560"></span>
=== Cal. 1560 ===
[[File:Cal 1560 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 1560, EmmyWatch|alt=Cal. 1560, EmmyWatch]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 26 (25 in some lot descriptions)
|-
| frequency
| 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 42h (secondary sources only)
|-
| escapement
| Straight-line lever
|-
| balance
| Free-sprung monometallic, Microstella screws
|-
| shock
| KIF (pattern not named in lots)
|}

Cal. 1560 is commonly dated to 1959 as the chronometer-grade 15xx movement, with a free-sprung balance adjusted to temperature and five positions. Auction catalogues give both 25 and 26 jewels without establishing a pattern. Antiquorum usually describes a Breguet overcoil; its flat-hairspring description for one ref. 1502/1503 is an outlier.

Heritage catalogues Cal. 1560 in a ref. 1013 dated circa 1957, earlier than the commonly cited 1959 date. Both the date and caliber are Heritage’s lot attribution, so this example does not establish when Cal. 1560 entered production. Antiquorum also lists Cal. 1560 in a circa-1962 1013. These records do not date the later change to Cal. 1570. See [[Reference:1013|ref. 1013]].

Antiquorum ([https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-151-323 2006 lot 323], [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-1014-lot-373-24 2024 lot 24]), [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/24231/lot/182/rolex-a-stainless-steel-and-gold-filled-automatic-sweep-seconds-wristwatch-ref-1014-circa-1951/ Bonhams] and [https://jewelry.ha.com/itm/timepieces/wristwatch/rolex-oyster-perpetual-ref-1014/a/5581-54111.s Heritage] also catalogue Cal. 1560 in individual ref. 1014 examples. Bonhams dates its masked case 769*** to circa 1951; [https://app.bellmans.co.uk/en/auction/nov-jewellery-2025-20-november-fine-jewellery-watches/1569-a-rolex-oyster-perpetual-chronometer-gold-capped-ref-1014-with-additional-9ct-gold-bracelet?page=12&listView=1 Bellmans] later records serial 769199 as 1962. These are catalogue attributions, and the masked Bonhams number does not confirm that it is the same watch. See [[Reference:1014|ref. 1014]].

The Oyster Perpetual ref. 1022 is documented with Cal. 1560 by Bonhams, Pandolfini, Adams, HODINKEE, and 1stDibs; Tajan describes an automatic movement but names no caliber. Bonhams and Adams report 25 jewels; 1stDibs lists 26. Watch-Wiki’s caliber index and Time Connection’s case-parts table also list Cal. 1570 for the 1022. The lists name Cal. 1570, while the five inspected 1022 sale/dealer examples identify Cal. 1560.

Gardiner Houlgate catalogues Cal. 1560 in one ref. 1023, serial 1136xxx, dated circa 1964. Time Connection II’s replacement-parts table lists both Cal. 1560 and 1570 under the reference, without dates or a sequence. The auction record documents one Cal. 1560 example; it does not establish when either caliber entered production.

Auction catalogues also identify Cal. 1560 in ref. 1024 examples dated circa 1965/66 and circa 1970. Antiquorum lists Cal. 1560 in a ref. 1011 dated 1960, case 546423, and in two lots jointly catalogued as refs. 1010/1011, dated 1960 and 1962. Heritage also lists Cal. 1560 in an undated ref. 1011 sold in 2012. Heritage and Bonhams list Cal. 1560 in individual ref. 1010 lots dated circa 1962 and circa 1967; Antiquorum lists Cal. 1570 in an individual ref. 1010 circa 1968. The Field Manual lists Cal. 1560 for ref. 1010. A 1stDibs item text also names Cal. 1560 for its claimed 1010, though the page title says 1011; treat it as seller-level evidence. These records document both attributions for ref. 1010, and its changeover year remains open; see [[Reference:1010|ref. 1010]]. Antiquorum catalogues Cal. 1560 in ref. 1501 examples dated 1962 (case 761,220) and 1963 (case 953,774); see [[Reference:1501|ref. 1501]], [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-1501-oyster-perpetual-date-lot-386-200 the 1962 lot], and [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-247-67 the 1963 lot].

The Vintage Rolex Field Manual assigns Cal. 1560 to proposed monopusher refs. 1074 and 1223, but cites no identified watch or movement evidence for either link. [https://watchguy.co.uk/tmp/Rolex%201560.pdf Rolex’s standard Cal. 1560 parts sheet] describes a self-winding, sweep-seconds movement and does not document chronograph works. Christie’s catalogues two 1074 wristwatches without naming a caliber. A separate [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-204177 Christie’s 1920s monopusher listing] gives 1223 as the case number, not as a verified reference; a [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6049981 ref. 28D1 pocket chronograph] uses 1223 as its movement number. Treat both Field Manual caliber assignments as unverified. [https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/0b5fdf83/files/uploaded/1.0%20RolexBook-23Mar.pdf The Vintage Rolex Field Manual, printed p. 74] [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-874668 Christie’s, model 1074] [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-1473066 Christie’s, ref. 1074 case 25433]

Cal. 1560 uses free-sprung Microstella regulation; Cal. 1530 uses an index. Watches made from 1959 to 1965 were tested by the Bureaux Officiels de Contrôle de la Marche des Montres, usually under collective certificates and to a standard around −1/+10 seconds per day in five positions. COSC did not exist until September 1973, so describing an early 1560 as COSC-certified is anachronistic.

Factory balance 7980 is used in the 18,000-vph chronometer group: 1555, 1556, 1560 and 1565. Later replacement part 8106 and balance bridge 8102 span both 18,000- and 19,800-vph family members, so a serviced 1560 may carry the later balance. Documented fitments include the four-line 5512, 5504 and Explorer 1016. The GMT-Master 1675 instead used the 1565 to about the 1.4-million serial range and the 1575 thereafter. Family-wide bridge engravings explain 1675 movements marked 1560 or 1570; a base 1560 lacks both calendar and 24-hour works. Although 1570 became the new fitment in 1965, 1560 movements appear in Explorers until about 1967.

<span id="cal-1565"></span>
=== Cal. 1565 ===
[[File:Cal 1565 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 1565, EmmyWatch|alt=Cal. 1565, EmmyWatch]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 25–26 (sources disagree)
|-
| frequency
| 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 42h (registry; 44h in some secondary tables)
|-
| escapement
| Straight-line lever
|-
| balance
| Free-sprung, Microstella
|-
| shock
| KIF
|}

Produced from 1959 to 1965, Cal. 1565 is the early ref. 1675's "caller" GMT movement: its 24-hour hand remains linked to the main hour hand rather than independently adjustable. Rolex kept that layout until Cal. 3085. The 1565 introduced a free-sprung Breguet overcoil with Microstella regulation to this lineage, replacing the index used by earlier sport calibers. Rolex's [https://www.emmywatch.com/wp-content/plugins/watchsearch/inc/documents/rolex--1565--movement_parts.pdf Cal. 1565 parts sheet] describes an automatic calendar movement, shows "1560" engraved on its self-winding bridge, and lists part 7956, the date-indicator seating, for refs. 1500, 1501 and 1503. The [https://www.clubderelojeria.com/comunicaciones/R/ROLEX/rolex1575/ROLEX%201575.pdf Cal. 1575 parts catalogue] lists date-indicator parts for those same case references. The Vintage Rolex Field Manual also lists [[Reference:1500|ref. 1500]] in its Cal. 1565 Date table ([https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/0b5fdf83/files/uploaded/1.0%20RolexBook-23Mar.pdf The Vintage Rolex Field Manual, caliber table]). These factory lists document service-parts applications; movement-level inspection determines the caliber fitted to a particular watch. Auction catalogues call ref. 1501 Cal. 1560 or 1570, matching the bridge numbers shown in the 1565 and 1575 parts sheets. The records leave watch-specific fitment and changeover years unresolved. See [[Reference:1500|ref. 1500]], [[Reference:1501|ref. 1501]] and [[Reference:1503|ref. 1503]].

<span id="cal-1570"></span>
=== Cal. 1570 ===
[[File:Cal 1570 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 1570, open caseback|alt=Cal. 1570, open caseback]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 26
|-
| frequency
| 19,800 vph (2.8 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 48h
|-
| size
| 12.5′′′ (28.2mm)
|-
| escapement
| Straight-line lever
|-
| balance
| Free-sprung monometallic, four Microstella screws
|-
| shock
| KIF (Flector or Elastor)
|}

Cal. 1570 is the 19,800-vph revision of the 1560, introduced in 1965. Christie’s identifies Cal. 1570 in ref. 1011 case 692498, dated circa 1962; its lot chronology overlaps the ref. 1011 Cal. 1560 examples and does not establish a changeover. See [[Reference:1011|ref. 1011]]. Monaco Legend lists Cal. 1570 in a 1966 pink-gold 1013, Gazette Drouot in a circa-1968 example and Rago in a 1978 example. The 1013 records document both calibers but leave their changeover unresolved. See [[Reference:1013|ref. 1013]]. One Artcurial ref. 1005 lot is catalogued with Cal. 1550, despite a chronometer-dial description; other 1005 catalogues list 1560 or 1570. This single lot does not establish a 1005 movement variant or resolve whether the movement is original. It retains the free-sprung Breguet overcoil and Microstella regulation, with adjustment to temperature and five positions. Family-wide bridge engraving causes date movements such as the 1575 in a ref. 1665 to appear marked 1570; the engraving alone does not identify the exact caliber. Phillips identifies Cal. 1570 in a circa-1985 ref. 1024, while Dorotheum lists it on a circa-1965/70 example; those ref. 1024 dates overlap its Cal. 1560 records. Christie’s, Antiquorum, Phillips, Dorotheum and Bonhams also catalogue Cal. 1570 in ref. 1501 examples; see [[Reference:1501|ref. 1501]]. These lot labels do not establish a 1501 changeover year.

Waddington’s lists Cal. 1570 in ref. 1023/8B and dates it circa 1964. That estimate predates the 1965 start date used here for Cal. 1570; Pergola’s unofficial chart places serial 902827 in 1962. Hess and Watch.de identify Cal. 1570 on other 1023 listings, and a 2022 Rolex Forums photograph shows a rotor marked 1570 inside an outer case stamped 1023. Kaplans also lists Cal. 1570 for serial 2,186,841; Watch.de masks its serial as 2186xxx, and their other matching details suggest a repeat listing. These records document the caliber on individual watches, but they do not establish first fitment or a changeover; see [[Reference:1023|1023]].

The balance has four Microstella screws in two opposing pairs, not two. Rolex required equal adjustment within each pair to preserve poise. The larger pair changes rate by about two seconds per day and the smaller by about one. On this family the screws sit in the balance rim; the later 3135 platform moves its Microstella nuts to the inner rim.

KIF's circa-1972 material catalogue lists Flector and Elastor settings for Rolex; it does not list Ultraflex. Auction catalogues name only a shock absorber, while Rolex part 8065 serves the upper balance setting across the 1520, 1530, 1560 and 1570. The available records support Flector and Elastor.

Hacking appeared gradually around 1971–72, with timing varying by model. Cal. 3035 began replacing the 1570 in new production from 1977, but the Explorer 1016 retained it until 1988–89. The documented diameter is 12.5 lignes, or 28.2mm; the often-published 28.5mm is a rounded conversion. Published heights conflict.

<span id="cal-1575"></span>
=== Cal. 1575 ===
[[File:Cal 1575 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 1575, EmmyWatch|alt=Cal. 1575, EmmyWatch]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 26 (25 per Ashton Tracy)
|-
| frequency
| 19,800 vph (2.8 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 48h
|-
| escapement
| Straight-line lever
|-
| balance
| Free-sprung monometallic, Microstella screws (1570 balance)
|-
| shock
| KIF (Flector or Elastor)
|}

Cal. 1575 adds calendar work to the 1570; the GMT execution also adds a 24-hour train. Antiquorum and Sotheby's give 26 jewels, while watchmaker Ashton Tracy's 2018 ''Quill & Pad'' study gives 25. Tracy records a 48-hour power reserve; the often-published 50-hour figure lacks support.

Rolex engraved the 1575 bridge "1570," so that marking on a ref. 1680 or 1675 identifies the caliber family. Factory parts records distinguish 1565G, 1575, 1575G and 1575GMT. Date and GMT versions are separately catalogued builds, and the GMT parts also circulated as a conversion set for a standard 1560 or 1570.

The 1575 shares factory balance assembly 8106 with the 1570 and related family members. It has shock protection on the escape wheel on both dial and movement sides, as well as on the balance. The Vintage Rolex Field Manual lists [[Reference:1500|ref. 1500]] as a Date fitment in its Cal. 1575 table ([https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/0b5fdf83/files/uploaded/1.0%20RolexBook-23Mar.pdf The Vintage Rolex Field Manual, caliber table]); a [https://www.clubderelojeria.com/comunicaciones/R/ROLEX/rolex1575/ROLEX%201575.pdf Rolex Cal. 1575 parts catalogue] lists date-indicator parts for refs. 1500, 1501 and 1503. Auction catalogues more often describe 1500 examples as Cal. 1570. [https://www.bobswatches.com/rolex-blog/watch-review/vintage-week-rolex-oyster-perpetual-chronometer-date-ref-1500.html Bob’s Watches] explains the 1570 bridge engraving on date-equipped 1575-family movements; the engraving alone does not establish the caliber beneath it. The available records do not identify a watch-specific changeover. Other documented fitments include the Submariner 1680, GMT-Master 1675 from about the 1.4-million serial range, Explorer II 1655 and Sea-Dweller 1665.

<span id="gmt-branch"></span>
== GMT-Master line ==

Early GMT-Master movements synchronized the hour hands. Published references and auction catalogues name calibres 1030, 1036, 1065 and 1066 for the 6542; the sources do not give a consistent changeover chronology. Cal. 1565, 1575 and 3075 retained the synchronized, or "caller," layout through the 1675 and 16750 generations. Cal. 3085 introduced an independently adjustable local-hour hand. Cal. 3175 kept the synchronized layout in the 16700 until 1999, alongside calibres 3185 and 3186 in the 16710.

<span id="cal-1036"></span>
=== Cal. 1036 ===
[[File:Cal 1036 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 1036, EmmyWatch|alt=Cal. 1036, EmmyWatch]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 25
|-
| frequency
| 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 42h (secondary sources only)
|-
| escapement
| Straight-line lever (inferred, 1030 base)
|-
| balance
| Monometallic (inferred, 1030 base)
|-
| shock
| KIF (inferred)
|}

The Field Manual lists Cal. 1036 for the 6542, and Monochrome describes it as a Cal. 1030 with a 24-hour train. Sotheby's catalogues identify several individual 6542s with Cal. 1030, while other lots name 1065 or 1066. These attributions leave the 1036's place in the reference's production run unresolved. Period chronometer certificates came from the Bureaux Officiels; COSC began in 1973.

Published chronologies differ: a Phillips catalogue essay dates the 6542 release to 1954, while Rolex places the GMT-Master in 1955. The relationship between those dates remains unresolved in the cited sources.

The listed escapement, balance and shock protection are inferred from the Cal. 1030 base; no Cal. 1036 source documents them directly. Auction catalogues seldom identify a 6542 movement as Cal. 1036, so those three specifications remain provisional.

<span id="cal-1065"></span>
=== Cal. 1065 ===
[[File:Cal 1065 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 1065, EmmyWatch|alt=Cal. 1065, EmmyWatch]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 25
|-
| frequency
| 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 42h (secondary sources only)
|-
| escapement
| Straight-line lever (inferred, 1030 base)
|-
| balance
| Monometallic (inferred, 1030 base)
|-
| shock
| KIF (inferred)
|}

Auction catalogues identify Cal. 1065 in individual 6542 and 6609 examples as an automatic movement with 25 jewels. The Field Manual also lists it for the 6542. For ref. 6609, Sotheby's, Monaco Legend and Phillips identify Cal. 1065; Christie's and Antiquorum name Cal. 1066, and Phillips lot 118 lists Cal. 1030. These are lot-level attributions; they do not settle the 6609 changeover or Cal. 1065's production dates and position relative to calibres 1030, 1036 and 1066. Published 42-hour reserve figures come from secondary sources.

The escapement, balance, and shock rows likewise derive from the Cal. 1030 base. Cal. 1066 cataloguing supports that family relationship, but these details have not been documented directly on a Cal. 1065.

<span id="cal-1066"></span>
=== Cal. 1066 ===
[[File:Cal 1066 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 1066, stamped "1066," butterfly rotor engraved "Rolex Perpetual Patented," EmmyWatch|alt=Cal. 1066, stamped "1066," butterfly rotor engraved "Rolex Perpetual Patented," EmmyWatch]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 25
|-
| frequency
| 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 42h
|}

Auction catalogues identify Cal. 1066 in steel and gold 6542 examples, including watches dated circa 1958 and 1959. Christie's and Antiquorum also catalogue individual 6609 examples with Cal. 1066. The Field Manual lists the caliber for the 6542 as well. Its published specification is 18,000 vph and 25 jewels; Antiquorum describes a straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to temperature and five positions, shock absorber, and self-compensating Breguet hairspring. The available records place Cal. 1066 in late examples, but do not establish it as the final fitment or date a change from Cal. 1065.

The regulator and balance specification remain uncertain. Cal. 1030 descriptions name an index regulator, while Cal. 1066 descriptions omit it; one 6542 is catalogued with a free-sprung Glucydur balance. This may mark a running change or inconsistent cataloguing. A circa-1959 Phillips example directly confirms the Cal. 1066's butterfly rotor.

Published examples dated circa 1958 and 1959 carry different movement labels. A steel watch has a IV.1958 caseback; auction catalogues date two gold watches to 1959. These individual records show more than one caliber in late examples.

<span id="cal-3075"></span>
=== Cal. 3075 ===
[[File:Cal 3075 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 3075, engraved "3075," EmmyWatch|alt=Cal. 3075, engraved "3075," EmmyWatch]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 27
|-
| frequency
| 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 48h
|-
| escapement
| Straight-line lever
|-
| balance
| Free-sprung monometallic, Microstella screws
|-
| balance support
| Balance cock (3035 generation)
|-
| shock
| KIF (inferred; lots record only "shock absorber")
|}

Cal. 3075 carried the synchronized "caller" GMT layout into the 16750 generation. It has 27 jewels, a straight-line lever escapement, a monometallic balance adjusted to temperature and five positions, a free-sprung Breguet hairspring regulated by Microstella screws, hacking, and quickset. The quickset advances only the date wheel.

The balance is monometallic, not Glucydur. Catalogue descriptions identify Microstella screws but do not record their count, material, or position on the rim. They also name a shock absorber without identifying its maker, so the KIF attribution remains inferred from Rolex practice of the period.

The 3075 belongs to the 3035 generation and uses its cantilevered balance cock. Cal. 3175 and 3185 later introduced a balance bridge anchored at both ends. Its start date is disputed: the 16750 did not appear in a Rolex catalogue until 1981, while Antiquorum dates production of the 16758 to 1979. Known fitments are the steel 16750, steel-and-gold 16753, and gold 16758. The 3075 also moved the GMT hand above the hour hand, reversing the Cal. 1575 stack; later GMT calibers retained that arrangement.

<span id="cal-3085"></span>
=== Cal. 3085 ===
[[File:Cal 3085 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 3085, EmmyWatch|alt=Cal. 3085, EmmyWatch]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 27
|-
| frequency
| 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 48h
|-
| size
| 28.5mm × 6.3–7.2mm (sources disagree)
|-
| escapement
| Swiss lever
|-
| balance
| Free-sprung, Microstella
|-
| shock
| KIF (per published specs, unconfirmed)
|}

Cal. 3085 ran from 1983 to 1989 on the Cal. 3035 platform, with 27 jewels, a 28,800 vph frequency, 48 hours of reserve, hacking, and chronometer certification. It was the first Rolex caliber to separate the local-hour hand from the 24-hour hand. The crown jumps the local hour forward or backward in one-hour steps without disturbing the minutes, seconds, or home-time hand. The date advances only by cycling the local-hour hand, so the movement has no direct quickset date.

Published thickness figures conflict. Grail Watch Reference gives 6.3mm, while Caliber Corner gives 7.2mm against the Cal. 3185's 6.45mm. The 16760's thick movement and case produced the "Fat Lady" and "Sophia Loren" nicknames. Cal. 3085 appeared only in the 16760 GMT-Master II and 16550 Explorer II. Published specifications agree on a Breguet hairspring and Microstella regulation, but KIF shock protection has not been confirmed by an auction description or Rolex document.

<span id="cal-3175"></span>
=== Cal. 3175 ===
[[File:Cal 3175 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 3175, EmmyWatch|alt=Cal. 3175, EmmyWatch]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 31
|-
| frequency
| 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 48h
|-
| escapement
| Swiss lever
|-
| balance
| Free-sprung Glucydur, Microstella
|-
| balance support
| Balance bridge (3135 generation)
|-
| shock
| KIF Elastor (3100-family text, not lot-confirmed)
|}

Cal. 3175 ran from 1988 to 1999 with 31 jewels, a 28,800 vph frequency, 48 hours of reserve, hacking, quickset, and chronometer certification. Auction descriptions confirm the jewel count and adjustment to temperature and five positions. Published 3100-family specifications support a free-sprung Glucydur balance, Microstella regulation, Breguet hairspring and KIF Elastor setting. No examined Cal. 3175 lot confirms KIF Elastor.

Architecturally, Cal. 3175 is a Cal. 3135 with a fixed 24-hour hand. It uses the 3135's balance bridge, anchored at both ends, where Cal. 3075 used a cantilevered cock. The 24-hour hand remains linked to the local hour hand, so a second time zone is read from the rotating bezel. The 16700 kept this synchronized layout while the rest of the line moved to the jumping-hour Cal. 3185.

Cal. 3175 appeared only in the 16700 and was Rolex's last fixed GMT movement. Reports of factory Cal. 3185 fitment in late 16700s rest on a contradictory parts listing and a rebuilt watch; documented Cal. 3185 fitment belongs to the 16710. Sotheby's has incorrectly described Cal. 3175 as having an independent GMT hand. The accepted 16700 production span is 1988–1999, although Fratello gives 2001 in one account. The 1997 change from tritium to Super-LumiNova affected the dial, not the movement.

<span id="cal-3185"></span>
=== Cal. 3185 ===
[[File:Cal 3185 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 3185, engraved "3185"|alt=Cal. 3185, engraved "3185"]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 31
|-
| frequency
| 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 48h
|-
| size
| 6.45mm
|-
| balance
| Free-sprung Glucydur, four Microstella nuts
|}

Cal. 3185 ran from 1989 to about 2007. Derived from Cal. 3135 with added 24-hour work, it has 31 jewels, a 28,800 vph frequency, 48 hours of reserve, hacking, an independently adjustable local-hour hand, chronometer certification, and KIF Elastor shock protection. It powered the 16710, 16713, 16718, and 16570, replacing Cal. 3085 in the GMT-Master II and Explorer II.

The balance carries four Microstella nuts arranged as two opposing pairs of different sizes. Rolex's Microstella wrench instructions require equal adjustment of both nuts in a pair to preserve the balance-wheel poise. Adjusting one without its opposite puts the wheel out of poise.

Published Cal. 3085 thickness figures span 6.3 to 7.2mm. Cal. 3185 is 6.45mm, so it is thinner than the thicker 16760 specification but not every published 3085 measurement. That helped the 16710 sit flatter than the "Fat Lady" 16760. During setting, the 24-hour hand may twitch as the local hour jumps; this is a screening clue, not proof of caliber identity.

The date is corrected by moving the local-hour hand through midnight; there is no separate direct quickset for the date disc.

<span id="cal-3186"></span>
=== Cal. 3186 ===
[[File:Cal 3186 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 3186, engraved "3186"|alt=Cal. 3186, engraved "3186"]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 31
|-
| frequency
| 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 50h
|-
| size
| 28.5mm × 6.45mm
|-
| escapement
| Swiss lever
|-
| balance
| Monometallic, free-sprung
|-
| regulator
| Microstella screws, no index
|-
| shock
| Shock-absorber, pre-Paraflex
|}

Cal. 3186 predates the steel GMT-Master II transition of 2007; the gold example discussed below was sold in 2006. It added a Parachrom hairspring to the Cal. 3185 base while retaining 31 jewels, a 28,800 vph frequency, hacking, an independently adjustable local-hour hand, and chronometer certification; reserve increased to 50 hours. It powered late 16710 production and the ceramic-bezel 116710LN, 116710BLNR, and 116719BLRO.

The movement has a straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to temperature and five positions, shock protection, a free-sprung Breguet-form hairspring, Microstella regulation, and hacking. One Antiquorum description calls the hairspring blued steel, but Cal. 3186 uses Parachrom, a niobium-zirconium alloy coloured by an oxide layer rather than tempering.

Cal. 3186 retains the Cal. 3135 architecture used by the 3185: 28.5mm diameter, 6.45mm height, 28,800 vph, and 31 jewels. It also keeps the plain-bearing oscillating-weight axle, part 568, shared with Cal. 3130, 3135, 3155, and 3175. Axle condition must be assessed during service.

Rolex introduced Cal. 3186 as a running change, leaving its start date unsettled. Steel 16710 examples begin among late Z- and M-series cases; the lowest documented example is Z 5786xx, but higher Z-series watches can still contain Cal. 3185. Gold references changed earlier. A D-series 116718 catalogued with Cal. 3186 was sold in August 2006, placing the movement in production before the commonly cited 2007 steel transition.

Both Cal. 3185 and 3186 index the local-hour hand with a jumping-hour click. Cal. 3186 reworked the parts and reduced slack between the drive-train wheels. On Cal. 3185, the 24-hour hand twitches when the local hour jumps; on Cal. 3186, it remains still. Treat this as a screening clue and confirm the caliber by inspecting the movement.

Failure of the local-hour hand to index in one-hour steps calls for examination of the setting mechanism. The symptom alone does not identify which part needs replacement.

The date is corrected by moving the local-hour hand through midnight; there is no separate direct quickset for the date disc.

<span id="cal-3187"></span>
=== Cal. 3187 ===
[[File:Cal 3187 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 3187, official Rolex photo, engraved "3187," blue Parachrom hairspring, free-sprung Microstella balance|alt=Cal. 3187, official Rolex photo, engraved "3187," blue Parachrom hairspring, free-sprung Microstella balance]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 31
|-
| frequency
| 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 48–50h (sources disagree)
|-
| size
| 30.97mm (contested; 28.5mm also published)
|-
| escapement
| Swiss lever
|-
| balance
| Monometallic, free-sprung
|-
| regulator
| Microstella screws, no index
|-
| shock
| Paraflex
|}

Cal. 3187 is an enlarged Cal. 3186, widened to move the date window outward in the 42mm Explorer II case. It powered only the 216570 from 2011 to 2021, before Cal. 3285 replaced it in the 226570. The Parachrom hairspring, Breguet overcoil, and independently adjustable local-hour hand carry over from the GMT lineage. Paraflex is new here, replacing the KIF Elastor used by Cal. 3185. Within the GMT and Explorer II lineage covered on this page, Cal. 3187 is the first entry listed with Paraflex.

Cal. 3187 uses a larger baseplate and reworked surrounding parts but retains the Cal. 3186 regulating organ: a straight-line lever escapement, free-sprung monometallic balance under a full bridge, and Microstella regulation without an index. Auction catalogues confirm 31 jewels but do not itemize those inherited components.

Rolex launched the 216570 and Cal. 3187 together in March 2011 for the Explorer II's fortieth anniversary. The 42mm case required the larger movement, while the orange 24-hour hand recalled the 1655. Both remained in production until 2021, and no other reference used the caliber.

Two documented unit commissions use Cal. 3187. A 2012 white-dial 216570 made for members of the British Special Air Service carries "Who Dares Wins," the winged-dagger badge, and its owner's identifiers. A circa-2015 example numbered 40/48 was made for the UK Attack Helicopter Force. These were unit commissions rather than ministry-issued watches and should not be classified with the 5513 MilSub.

The local-hour hand should index in one-hour steps during setting. Irregular movement requires inspection of the mechanism.

The −2/+2 rating applies only after Rolex redefined Superlative Chronometer in 2015. Earlier watches carried the COSC −4/+6 seconds-per-day standard for the uncased movement; later examples were tested again by Rolex as complete watches. The underlying caliber did not change beyond regulation.

<span id="sport-modern"></span>
<span id="Modern_sport_calibers_(1988–2020)"></span>
== Modern sport calibers (1988–2023 coverage) ==

Cal. 3000 introduced a 28,800-vph no-date movement, followed by Cals. 3130 and 3132. Cal. 3135 powered three decades of Submariner Date production.

<span id="cal-3000"></span>
=== Cal. 3000 ===
[[File:Cal 3000 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 3000|alt=Cal. 3000]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 27
|-
| frequency
| 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 42h (48h in some sources)
|-
| size
| 28.5mm × 5.8mm
|-
| balance
| Adjustable-mass, flat hairspring
|}

Cal. 3000 is the no-date member of the 3000 family, used from about 1990 to 2001 in the Air-King 14000 and 14010, Submariner 14060, and Explorer 14270. The often-quoted 1988 start belongs to Cal. 3135. The Air-King changed to reference 14000M in 2000, while the Explorer became the 114270 and the Submariner adopted Cal. 3130 in 2001. Published power-reserve figures conflict at 42 and 48 hours; no Rolex figure settles the difference.

Cal. 3000 uses a flat hairspring, a useful distinction from the Breguet overcoil in Cal. 3130. Microstella adjustment sets the rate without an index, the hairspring is glued to the balance stud, and shock protection is KIF. COSC certification used the standard −4/+6 seconds-per-day tolerance.

<span id="cal-3035"></span>
=== Cal. 3035 ===
[[File:Cal 3035 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 3035, engraved "3035," EmmyWatch|alt=Cal. 3035, engraved "3035," EmmyWatch]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 27
|-
| frequency
| 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 48h
|-
| balance
| Free-sprung, four Microstella screws
|-
| shock
| KIF Elastor
|}

Cal. 3035 ran from 1977 to 1988 in the 16800, 168000, 16808, and 16803. It was the first quickset Submariner caliber, with 27 jewels, a 28,800 vph frequency, 48 hours of reserve, hacking, and chronometer certification. Compared with the Cal. 1570 generation, it increased frequency from 19,800 vph and added a crown position that advances the date wheel directly. Its free-sprung Nivarox Breguet overcoil is regulated by four Microstella screws and protected by KIF Elastor.

Two construction details separate it from Cal. 3135. Its balance sits on a cantilevered cock, and its hairspring is glued to the stud. Cal. 3135 uses a bridge anchored at both ends and a laser-welded hairspring stud.

<span id="cal-3130"></span>
=== Cal. 3130 ===
[[File:Cal 3130 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 3130, engraved "3130," EmmyWatch|alt=Cal. 3130, engraved "3130," EmmyWatch]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 31
|-
| frequency
| 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 48h
|-
| size
| 28.5mm × 5.85mm
|-
| escapement
| Swiss lever
|-
| balance
| Monometallic Glucydur, free-sprung
|-
| regulator
| Microstella screws, no index
|-
| shock
| KIF Elastor
|}

Cal. 3130 is the time-only successor to Cal. 3000, used in the 14060M, 114060, 114270, and 114200. It brought a full balance bridge, a larger balance wheel, and a Breguet overcoil hairspring. Rolex's parts sheet identifies Cal. 3135 as the base and gives 28.5mm diameter, 5.85mm height, 28,800 vph, and 31 jewels. Published introduction dates range from 1999 to 2001; the precise year remains unsettled.

Cal. 3000 supports its balance from a cock anchored on one side; the 3130 uses a bridge secured at both ends, which stabilizes endshake under lateral shock. Its Glucydur balance is free-sprung, with Microstella nuts setting the rate without an index. KIF Elastor shock protection distinguishes it from the Paraflex-equipped Cal. 3132. At 5.85mm it is 0.15mm thinner than Cal. 3135 because it omits the date mechanism. The main plate is the dedicated part 3130-100, although some smaller components retain 3135 part numbers.

The 14060M initially used Cal. 3130 without COSC certification and carried a two-line dial. Certification arrived in late 2007, adding the two-line "Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified" inscription. The movement itself did not change.

The oscillating-weight axle uses a plain bearing. A service assessment should check the rotor and its bearing for wear and contact with surrounding parts.

Cal. 3131, announced in 2007, adapts the 3130 for magnetic resistance with a blue Parachrom hairspring, a paramagnetic nickel-phosphorus escapement, and a two-part soft-iron shield around the movement. It powered the Milgauss 116400 and 116400GV, then the Air-King 116900.

<span id="cal-3132"></span>
=== Cal. 3132 ===
[[File:Cal 3132 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 3132|alt=Cal. 3132]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 31
|-
| frequency
| 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 48h
|-
| size
| 30.97mm (contested; 28.5mm also published)
|-
| escapement
| Swiss lever
|-
| balance
| Monometallic Glucydur, free-sprung
|-
| regulator
| Microstella screws, no index
|-
| shock
| Paraflex
|}

Cal. 3132 powered the 39mm Explorer 214270 from 2010 until the 36mm successor arrived in 2021. It is a Cal. 3130 with a Parachrom hairspring and Paraflex shock protection, retaining 31 jewels, a 28,800 vph frequency, 48 hours of reserve, hacking, and chronometer certification.

The base architecture remains a straight-line lever escapement with a free-sprung Glucydur balance under a full bridge, Microstella regulation, and no index. Paraflex replaced the 3130's KIF Elastor settings; Rolex's published material claims up to 50 per cent greater shock resistance than KIF. That comparison is a manufacturer claim, not an independent test. The blue Parachrom hairspring replaced Nivarox with a paramagnetic niobium-zirconium alloy whose colour comes from a patented oxide treatment.

Cal. 3132 brought Parachrom and Paraflex to the time-only professional line. Parachrom had appeared in Cal. 4130 in 2000, but the Submariner did not receive both features until Cal. 3230 in 2020.

Both dial generations of the 214270 use Cal. 3132. The 2016 revision lengthened the hands and added luminous filling to the 3, 6, and 9 numerals, without changing the movement. Cal. 3132 also retains the 3130’s plain-bearing oscillating-weight axle.

Rolex’s product sheet lists Cal. 3132 for the Oyster Perpetual 39 ref. 114300. Phillips catalogues a white-dial 114300, case P470X511, as Cal. 3230 in its [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/189941 2023 Geneva lot 21] and [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/HK080125/8048 2025 Hong Kong lot 8048]; the matching case number and June 2020 guarantee suggest the records concern one watch. It also catalogues a circa-2015 blue-dial 114300, case 908YN729, as Cal. 3230 in [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/225422 2025 Hong Kong lot 924]. The catalogue descriptions conflict with Rolex’s [https://content.rolex.com/dam/media/brochures/oyster-perpetual/m114300-0004.pdf 114300 product sheet] and do not establish factory fitment; replacement or catalogue error remains unresolved. See [[Reference:114300]].

Rolex redefined Superlative Chronometer in 2015, changing the guaranteed rate from COSC's −4/+6 seconds per day on the uncased movement to −2/+2 on the cased watch after additional in-house testing. The movement did not change, so early and late 214270 examples carry different rate guarantees.

<span id="cal-3135"></span>
=== Cal. 3135 ===
[[File:Cal 3135 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 3135, official Rolex photo, engraved "3135," 31 jewels|alt=Cal. 3135, official Rolex photo, engraved "3135," 31 jewels]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 31
|-
| frequency
| 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 48h
|-
| size
| 28.5mm
|-
| escapement
| Swiss lever
|-
| balance
| Free-sprung Glucydur, four Microstella nuts
|-
| regulator
| Free-sprung, no index
|-
| shock
| KIF (never Paraflex)
|}

Cal. 3135 ran from 1988 to 2021 with 31 jewels, a 28,800 vph frequency, 48 hours of reserve, hacking, quickset, and chronometer certification. It powered the 16610, 16613, and 16618 through the 116610 generation. The Submariner changed to Cal. 3235 with the 126610 on 1 September 2020, but the Oyster Perpetual Date 34 references 115200 and 115234 kept Cal. 3135 in production into 2021. Later end dates conflate it with Cal. 3131. The movement has rhodium plating, bevelled and polished screws, and a two-piece axle-style bidirectional rotor.

The conventional Swiss lever escapement is paired with a free-sprung Glucydur balance. With no index or curb pins, four Microstella nuts on the inside of the rim set the rate by changing the wheel's inertia. Older 1530-family balances place their adjustment screws on the outside. Cal. 3135 uses a Breguet overcoil and laser-welds the hairspring to its stud, replacing the glued joint used by Cal. 3035.

The main architectural change from Cal. 3035 is the balance bridge. Part 3135-120 is secured at both ends and carries height-adjusting nuts, keeping the pivots aligned under load and allowing endshake adjustment without shims. It also prevents the hairspring from fouling a cantilevered balance cock, a known Cal. 3035 problem. Cal. 3135 increased the jewel count from 27 to 31 and uses a larger balance wheel.

Cal. 3135 used KIF shock protection throughout its run and never received Paraflex. Rolex assigned new caliber numbers to Paraflex versions: 3130 became 3132, 3155 became 3156, and 3186 became 3187. The larger Paraflex date movement for the Datejust II was Cal. 3136. A 16610 or 116610 described as having Paraflex is misidentified.

Parachrom arrived during the Cal. 3135 run, but the transition date is unsettled. The niobium-zirconium alloy receives a uniform anodised oxide layer about 50 nanometres thick, which gives the hairspring its blue colour and stabilizes its restoring torque. Published dates for its adoption in Cal. 3135 range from about 2005 to 2009, with transitional examples reported on both sides. The ceramic-bezel 116610 uses it consistently from 2010. The spring's colour provides only a rough dating marker.

The reversing wheels transmit winding power when the rotor turns in either direction. Rolex dates their patent to 1952 and the introduction of their red surface treatment to 1957. Their colour identifies the component type, not Cal. 3135 by itself.

Earlier movements carried COSC's −4/+6 seconds-per-day standard. From 2015, Rolex applied its −2/+2 Superlative Chronometer test to the complete watch without changing the caliber. Derivatives include Cal. 3155, 3175, 3185, 3186, 3187, and the no-date 3130, 3131, and 3132.

<span id="milgauss-family"></span>
== Milgauss ==

Auction catalogues assign Cal. 1080 to early Milgauss examples, though a later catalogue labels the same 6541 movement number Cal. 1055. Cal. 1580 derives from the 1530 platform; Cal. 3131 derives from Cal. 3130.

<span id="cal-1080"></span>
=== Cal. 1080 ===
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 25 listed for Christie’s case 145'111 and Sotheby’s case 412'479
|-
| documented fitment
| Milgauss 6543 and 6541 examples; one 6541 movement number carries conflicting 1080 / 1055 catalogue labels
|-
| base relationship
| Revolution describes it as modified from Cal. 1030
|}

Christie’s lists Cal. 1080 in 6543 case 145'111. Revolution and Watch-Wiki also assign the caliber to the 6543; Revolution describes a Cal. 1030 relationship. Watch-Wiki is a secondary reference index, and it does not resolve Christie’s Cal. 1065 label for case 145'159. Sotheby’s called movement N726507 in 6541 case 412'479 Cal. 1080 in 2018; Phillips listed the same case and movement number as Cal. 1055 in 2026. The surviving records do not establish a caliber sequence.

<span id="cal-1580"></span>
=== Cal. 1580 ===
[[File:Cal 1580 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 1580, marked "26 Jewels, Adjusted Six 6 Positions" — EmmyWatch|alt=Cal. 1580, marked "26 Jewels, Adjusted Six 6 Positions" — EmmyWatch]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 26
|-
| frequency
| 19,800 vph (2.8 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 48h
|-
| size
| 28.5mm × 5.75mm
|-
| escapement
| Straight-line lever
|-
| balance
| Free-sprung monometallic, Microstella screws
|-
| regulator
| None — free-sprung
|-
| shock
| Shock absorber
|}

Cal. 1580 is associated exclusively with the [[Reference:1019|Milgauss 1019]] during its 1960–1988 run, subject to the early-production dating conflict below. It shares the 1530-derived platform with Cal. 1570 and 1575, and gained hacking around 1972. A soft-iron inner shield around the movement provides the magnetic protection, making the 1019 thicker than contemporary Submariner and GMT-Master cases using the same movement family. Parts interchange broadly across the 1520/1525/1530/1535/1555/1556/1560/1565/1570/1575/1580 group.

Cal. 1580 has 26 jewels, a straight-line lever escapement, a monometallic balance adjusted to temperature and five positions, shock protection, and a Breguet hairspring. Antiquorum describes the hairspring as free-sprung white metal with Microstella regulation. That matches Cal. 1560 and 1570 on the same platform, although no second auction house specifies the regulation system.

The case provides the magnetic shielding. A gilt-metal anti-magnetic cap and the surrounding inner case absorb the field. Cal. 1580 uses the standard 1530-family balance and hairspring inside the shielded case. Rolex added hacking in 1972 with the corresponding sport-caliber revision.

Watch Doctor’s chart assigns Cal. 1580 to 1963, later than the usual dating of the first 1019s to around 1960. That discrepancy does not establish that early 1019s contained a different caliber. A proposed alternative needs a documented watch or a Rolex record.

<span id="cal-3131"></span>
=== Cal. 3131 ===
[[File:Cal 3131 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 3131 from a Milgauss 116400GV, auto bridge and gold reversing wheels|alt=Cal. 3131 from a Milgauss 116400GV, auto bridge and gold reversing wheels]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 31
|-
| frequency
| 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 48h
|-
| size
| 28.5mm
|-
| escapement
| Nickel-phosphorus escape wheel & pallet fork
|-
| balance
| Free-sprung monometallic, Microstella
|-
| shock
| KIF
|}

Cal. 3131 is a no-date Cal. 3130 derivative announced at Baselworld 2007 for the [[Reference:116400|Milgauss 116400]] and 116400GV "Glace Verte." From 2016 it also powered the Air-King 40 reference 116900. Magnetic protection has three parts. A two-piece ferromagnetic shield encloses the movement, with one half secured on the dial side and the other beneath the outer caseback; the inner back carries a capital "B" and arrow, the symbol for magnetic flux density. The movement also uses a paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring and an amorphous nickel-phosphorus escape wheel and pallet fork.

Cal. 3131 remained COSC-certified throughout its run, with KIF shock protection and a conventional Swiss lever escapement. It never received Chronergy or Paraflex. Rolex applied the tighter −2/+2 seconds-per-day Superlative Chronometer standard from 2015, so later 116900 and 116400GV examples carry the revised rating without a corresponding movement change. The Air-King remained in production to 2022 and the Milgauss to 2023.

<span id="daytona-manual"></span>
== Daytona chronograph (manual-wind) ==

The manual-wind Daytona used Valjoux 72 architecture from 1963 through 1988. Across five caliber numbers, Rolex progressively refinished and re-rated the Valjoux 72 ébauche.

Valjoux joined the Ebauches SA group in 1944 and was later folded into ETA, though the Valjoux name remained in use through the end of Cal. 72 production in 1974. At least 62,000 Valjoux 72/23 movements are recorded in Rolex cases across more than 40 references, about 7 per cent of total output. Heuer, Universal Genève and Longines also used the base. Rolex examples differ in their finishing and adjustment.

<span id="cal-72"></span>
=== Cal. 72 ===
[[File:Cal 72 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Valjoux 72 ébauche, caliber "72" stamped at 6 o'clock beside the Valjoux logo, plate marked "Seventeen 17 Jewels Unadjusted," stock index regulator with F/A–S/R scale — the untouched configuration Rolex fitted as Cal. 72. This example's chronograph bridge is signed Heuer-Leonidas SA|alt=Valjoux 72 ébauche, caliber "72" stamped at 6 o'clock beside the Valjoux logo, plate marked "Seventeen 17 Jewels Unadjusted," stock index regulator with F/A–S/R scale — the untouched configuration Rolex fitted as Cal. 72. This example's chronograph bridge is signed Heuer-Leonidas SA]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Manual
|-
| complication
| Chronograph
|-
| jewels
| 17
|-
| frequency
| 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 48h
|-
| escapement
| Swiss lever
|-
| shock
| Incabloc
|}

Auction catalogues identify Cal. 72 in individual ref. 6034 watches dated circa 1952–1955. One Antiquorum lot instead lists a 13-ligne, 17-jewel movement without a caliber name. These descriptions belong to the named watches; they do not establish one designation across every 6034. [https://www.christies.com/lot/lot-6212811 Christie's, circa-1953 case 907407] [https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2009/important-watches-n08543/lot.116.html Sotheby's, circa-1952 case 847427] [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080123/99 Phillips, circa-1953 case 847307] [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-51-11 Antiquorum, 13-ligne example]

Cal. 72 was also used in the pre-Daytona ref. 6234 from about 1955 to 1961, where it remained close to the Valjoux ébauche. Rolex retained its index regulator, flat hairspring and Incabloc protection. Auction records document the bare Cal. 72 designation on examples from 1957 and around 1960; published production dates for the 6234 end in either 1960 or about 1961.

<span id="cal-72a"></span>
=== Cal. 72A ===
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Manual
|-
| complication
| Chronograph
|-
| jewels
| 17
|-
| frequency
| 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 48h
|-
| escapement
| Swiss lever
|-
| shock
| Incabloc
|}

Cal. 72A appears in late ref. 6234s from the late 1950s to about 1961. It retains the index regulator and flat hairspring that Cal. 72B would replace, making it a Rolex-finished but otherwise conventional Valjoux 72 execution. The meaning of the ROW stamp remains uncertain: Sotheby's associates it with US importation, while Grail Watch Reference reads it as Rolex Werke. Neither interpretation is supported by a known Rolex document.

<span id="cal-72b"></span>
=== Cal. 72B ===
[[File:Cal 72B movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Rolex-signed Valjoux 72-family movement, seventeen jewels — caliber sub-variant not distinguishable from the engraving alone|alt=Rolex-signed Valjoux 72-family movement, seventeen jewels — caliber sub-variant not distinguishable from the engraving alone]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Manual
|-
| complication
| Chronograph
|-
| jewels
| 17
|-
| frequency
| 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 48h
|-
| escapement
| Swiss lever
|-
| balance
| Microstella, adjustable inertia
|-
| shock
| KIF (often Flector)
|}

Used in the ref. 6238 and the last 6234s, Cal. 72B marks Rolex's first substantial reworking of the Valjoux base. The index regulator gave way to a Microstella adjustable-inertia balance, the flat hairspring to a Breguet overcoil, and Incabloc protection to KIF, often in its clover-shaped Flector form. The caliber also has the earlier screwed setting lever, later replaced by a pusher type.

The transition date is disputed. Dody Giussani's text for ''Ultimate Rolex Daytona'' dates the complete replacement of Cal. 72A to 1966, while auction records identify Cal. 72B in ref. 6234 examples from around 1961. Giussani finds no substantial mechanical difference between the 72B and 722 and notes that Rolex used both names in its technical documents. The regulating organ changed before Rolex consistently adopted the later caliber name.

<span id="cal-722"></span>
=== Cal. 722 ===
[[File:Cal 722 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Rolex-signed Valjoux 72-family movement, seventeen jewels — caliber sub-variant not distinguishable from the engraving alone|alt=Rolex-signed Valjoux 72-family movement, seventeen jewels — caliber sub-variant not distinguishable from the engraving alone]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Manual
|-
| complication
| Chronograph
|-
| jewels
| 17
|-
| frequency
| 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 48h
|-
| escapement
| Swiss lever
|-
| balance
| Microstella, adjustable inertia
|-
| shock
| KIF (often Flector)
|}

Cal. 722 powered the refs. 6239, 6240 and 6241, including examples with "Paul Newman" dials. Its column wheel controls a horizontal clutch through a coupling yoke. Engagement can make the chronograph hand jump slightly forward or back at the start, a trait later removed by the vertical clutch in Cal. 4130.

The position of the "Rolex Genève" inscription on the dial-side plate distinguishes Cal. 722 from the 722-1 that followed. The designations otherwise overlap: Christie's records Cal. 72B, 722 and 722-1 across ref. 6241 production. The engraving on the movement is more reliable than a date-based attribution. Phillips and Sotheby’s catalogues also assign 72B, 722 and 722-1 to individual ref. 6240 watches dated circa 1965–1966. Those lot labels do not establish a serial-number changeover; read the movement engraving.

<span id="cal-722-1"></span>
=== Cal. 722-1 ===
[[File:Cal 722-1 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Rolex-signed Valjoux 72-family movement, seventeen jewels — caliber sub-variant not distinguishable from the engraving alone|alt=Rolex-signed Valjoux 72-family movement, seventeen jewels — caliber sub-variant not distinguishable from the engraving alone]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Manual
|-
| complication
| Chronograph
|-
| jewels
| 17
|-
| frequency
| 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 48h
|-
| balance
| Microstella (inherited from 722)
|-
| shock
| KIF
|}

Often dated to 1967, Cal. 722-1 was the last 18,000 vph Daytona caliber before Cal. 727 raised the frequency. Sotheby’s catalogues a circa-1965 ref. 6240 with 722-1; that lot attribution does not establish when Rolex first used the caliber. Rolex described it as a Valjoux 72A-based mechanism with the same dimensions as its predecessor; the changes were internal.

The hour-recorder conveyor gained an eccentric pivot and wing-shaped spring, allowing more precise engagement with the hour wheel. A guard spring above the balance was intended to keep the hairspring on its stud support under shock. Giussani records that the guard had already appeared inconsistently on Cal. 722 and caused problems of its own, so many surviving examples of both calibers lack it.

<span id="cal-727"></span>
=== Cal. 727 ===
[[File:Cal 727 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 727 (right, engraved 727, Daytona ref 6265), specialist comparison photo via Perezcope|alt=Cal. 727 (right, engraved 727, Daytona ref 6265), specialist comparison photo via Perezcope]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Manual
|-
| complication
| Chronograph
|-
| jewels
| 17
|-
| frequency
| 21,600 vph (3 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 48h
|-
| escapement
| Swiss lever
|-
| balance
| Microstella, adjustable inertia
|-
| shock
| KIF
|}

Cal. 727 raised the Valjoux 72 frequency from 18,000 to 21,600 vph and powered the refs. 6262, 6263, 6264 and 6265 from 1970 until 1988. A genuine example has a Breguet overcoil and a bevelled inner edge on the KIF shock-spring retaining ring. These details, together with the engraved caliber number, help distinguish an original movement from a substituted or counterfeit one.

<span id="daytona-auto"></span>
== Daytona chronograph (automatic) ==

<span id="cal-4030"></span>
=== Cal. 4030 ===
[[File:Cal 4030 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 4030, engraved 4030, thirty-one jewels|alt=Cal. 4030, engraved 4030, thirty-one jewels]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| complication
| Chronograph
|-
| jewels
| 31
|-
| frequency
| 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 52–54h (sources disagree)
|-
| balance
| Free-sprung Breguet
|-
| escapement
| Swiss lever
|}

Launched with the ref. 16520 in 1988, Cal. 4030 was a heavily reworked Zenith El Primero 400 and the last externally designed movement used by Rolex. Rolex removed the date, reduced the frequency from 36,000 to 28,800 vph and changed more than half of the components. A Breguet overcoil replaced the flat hairspring, while a free-sprung Glucydur balance with Microstella regulation and KIF protection replaced the Zenith oscillator. The chronograph retained a column wheel and horizontal clutch.

Published power-reserve figures split between 52 and 54 hours, with no known Rolex document settling the difference. The photographed movement is signed "MONTRES ROLEX S.A. GENEVA SWISS, ADJ. 5 POSITIONS TEMPERATURE, THIRTY-ONE JEWELS" and stamped "4030."

<span id="cal-4130"></span>
=== Cal. 4130 ===
[[File:Cal 4130 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 4130 movement detail, bridge marked "4130"|alt=Cal. 4130 movement detail, bridge marked "4130"]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| complication
| Chronograph
|-
| jewels
| 44
|-
| frequency
| 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 72h
|-
| escapement
| Swiss lever, 52° lift angle
|-
| balance
| Free-sprung, four gold Microstella nuts
|-
| shock
| KIF
|}

Cal. 4130 was developed and manufactured by Rolex for the ref. 116520 in 2000. [https://www.rolex.com/en-us/about-rolex/history/2000-2013 Rolex history, 2000–2013] Its column wheel and vertical clutch avoid the hand jump reported for Cal. 4030 when the chronograph starts. The movement uses 201 components, about 20 per cent fewer than its predecessor, and twelve types of screw rather than more than forty.

The rotor runs on a ball bearing; the Cal. 3135 generation uses a jewelled sleeve. Claims that the bearing is ceramic lack support from Rolex or specialist documentation. The free-sprung balance sits under a transversal bridge and uses KIF protection. Chronergy, Paraflex, an optimised rotor bearing and Côtes de Genève arrived with Cal. 4131 in 2023. The display back also belongs to that successor and was limited to platinum; every Cal. 4130 Daytona has a solid caseback.

Parachrom was fitted from launch, but the blue version is variously dated between about 2005 and 2007 without a supporting Rolex document. Later examples were rated to Rolex's −2/+2 seconds-per-day standard after its introduction in 2015. Cal. 4130 continued through the ref. 116500LN until Cal. 4131 replaced it in March 2023.

<span id="cal-3230"></span>
=== Cal. 3230 ===
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic, no date
|-
| frequency
| 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| Approximately 70 hours
|-
| escapement
| Chronergy
|-
| hairspring / shock
| Blue Parachrom / Paraflex
|-
| documented fitment here
| 124060, 124270, 126000, 126900; catalogue conflicts for some 114300 lots are recorded above
|}

Rolex introduced Cal. 3230 in 2020 as the no-date member of its newer movement generation. Rolex describes the movement with a Chronergy escapement, blue Parachrom hairspring, Paraflex shock absorbers and approximately 70 hours of reserve. The individual reference page remains the authority for a specific watch; catalogue attributions that conflict with Rolex product documentation are recorded as conflicts rather than silently normalized. [https://newsroom-content.rolex.com/-/media/project/rolex/newsroom/rolex/rolex-newsroom-int/about-rolex/history-of-rolex/02_rolex_history_english_2021.pdf Rolex, History of Rolex, 2021]

<span id="cal-3235"></span>
=== Cal. 3235 ===
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic, date
|-
| frequency
| 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| Approximately 70 hours
|-
| escapement
| Chronergy
|-
| hairspring / shock
| Blue Parachrom / Paraflex
|-
| documented fitment here
| Datejust, Sea-Dweller and Submariner Date families
|}

Rolex introduced Cal. 3235 in 2015. It is the date-bearing member of the same generation as Cal. 3230, with a Chronergy escapement, blue Parachrom hairspring, Paraflex protection and approximately 70 hours of reserve. Rolex's brochures describe the date as instantaneous and the watch as COSC-certified and retested after casing to Rolex's tighter standard. [https://content.rolex.com/dam/media/brochures/datejust/m126333-0010.pdf Rolex, Datejust 41 brochure]

<span id="cal-3255"></span>
=== Cal. 3255 ===
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic, day and date
|-
| frequency
| 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| Approximately 70 hours
|-
| escapement
| Chronergy
|-
| hairspring / shock
| Blue Parachrom / Paraflex
|-
| documented fitment here
| Day-Date 40 and Day-Date 36
|}

Rolex introduced Cal. 3255 in 2015 for the Day-Date 40 and later Day-Date 36. The movement provides rapid-setting day and date displays, a Chronergy escapement, blue Parachrom hairspring, Paraflex shock absorbers and approximately 70 hours of reserve. It replaced Cal. 3156 in the Day-Date II successor generation; the 36mm Cal. 3155 remained a separate earlier movement. [https://newsroom-content.rolex.com/-/media/project/rolex/newsroom/rolex/rolex-newsroom-int/about-rolex/history-of-rolex/02_rolex_history_english_2021.pdf Rolex, History of Rolex, 2021] [https://newsroom-content.rolex.com/-/media/project/rolex/newsroom/rolex/rolex-newsroom-int/brochures/en/2022_information_sheet_day-date_en.pdf Rolex, Day-Date information sheet, 2022]

<span id="cal-3285"></span>
=== Cal. 3285 ===
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic GMT
|-
| frequency
| 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| Approximately 70 hours
|-
| functions
| Independent rapid-setting local hour, 24-hour display, instantaneous date
|-
| escapement
| Chronergy
|-
| hairspring / shock
| Blue Parachrom / Paraflex
|-
| documented fitment here
| GMT-Master II 126710, 126711, 126715, 126720 and related current references
|}

Rolex introduced Cal. 3285 in 2018 for the GMT-Master II. Its GMT hand remains independent of the local hour, the date changes instantaneously, and the movement combines Chronergy, a blue Parachrom hairspring, Paraflex protection and approximately 70 hours of reserve. [https://content.rolex.com/dam/media/brochures/gmt-master-ii/m126715chnr-0001.pdf Rolex, GMT-Master II brochure]

<span id="cal-4131"></span>
=== Cal. 4131 ===
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic chronograph
|-
| introduction
| 2023
|-
| power reserve
| Approximately 72 hours
|-
| chronograph
| Column wheel and vertical clutch
|-
| escapement / shock
| Chronergy / Paraflex
|-
| documented fitment here
| Daytona 126500 and 2023-onward gold and platinum Daytona references
|}

Rolex introduced Cal. 4131 in 2023 as the successor to Cal. 4130. The movement keeps the column wheel and vertical clutch and adds the Chronergy escapement, Paraflex shock absorbers, a blue Parachrom hairspring and Rolex Côtes de Genève decoration. Rolex gives an approximately 72-hour reserve. [https://newsroom.rolex.com/watches/new-watches-2024/cosmograph-daytona Rolex Newsroom, Cosmograph Daytona]

<span id="cal-4132"></span>
=== Cal. 4132 ===
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic chronograph
|-
| introduction
| 2023
|-
| special function
| 24-hour elapsed-time counter
|-
| documented fitment here
| Daytona 126529LN, the Le Mans anniversary model
|}

Cal. 4132 is the 4131 derivative used in the Le Mans anniversary Daytona. Rolex describes it as allowing the chronograph to count elapsed hours over 24 rather than the usual 12. The official history page does not publish a separate technical specification table, so the 4131 family specifications should not be copied into 4132 without a movement-specific source. [https://www.rolex.com/en-us/watches/cosmograph-daytona/beyond-the-racetrack Rolex, Cosmograph Daytona history]

<span id="day-date-family"></span>
== Day-Date ==

Day-Date calibers form their own family. Four-digit references set both calendar displays through the hands; five-digit references introduced quickset.

<span id="cal-1055"></span>
=== Cal. 1055 ===
[[File:Cal 1055 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 1055, period parts-catalogue illustration, front and back|alt=Cal. 1055, period parts-catalogue illustration, front and back]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 25
|-
| frequency
| 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 42h
|-
| escapement
| Straight-line lever
|-
| balance
| Monometallic
|-
| shock
| KIF
|}

Cal. 1055 appears in catalogues for the first four-digit Day-Date references and is commonly dated 1956–1959. A 2017 Dorotheum listing pairs it with a 6511/8 dated circa 1965; Pergola’s unofficial chart places the case number in its 1956 band, and the lot photo has no readable serial. Treat the later date as an unresolved catalogue attribution. Cal. 1055 has rhodium-plated bridges with oeil-de-perdrix ("partridge-eye") circular graining rather than Côtes de Genève. Documented examples were adjusted to temperature and five positions.

Reference histories commonly date the 6611 to 1957 and associate it with the second, chronometer-certified 1055 generation. Phillips lists caliber 1055 on its 1956 gold 6611 and 1055B on its 1958 white-gold 6611B; catalogues do not use the suffix consistently. The dial wording changes to “Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified.”

6612 catalogues such as [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080115/43 Phillips lot 43], [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/20747/lot/353/ Bonhams lot 353], and [https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-38/lot-67 Monaco Legend lot 67] show the same naming problem: Phillips (1958 platinum case 403,680), Bonhams (circa-1959 gold 6612/8), and Monaco Legend (1958 6612B examples) list Cal. 1055, while [https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/watches-online-dubai-edit/rolex-day-date-ref-6612b-extremely-rare-attractive-platinum-diamond-65/195872 Christie’s Dubai lot 65] uses B1055 and other catalogues use 1055B. Keep the calibre label attached to the specific watch and source; those descriptions do not establish that every 6612 retained its original movement.

For examples catalogued as 6612B, Monaco Legend lists Cal. 1055 on yellow-gold case 384,933, white-gold case 394,866 and platinum case 403,679. Phillips lists B1055 on platinum case 446,052; Christie's Dubai uses B1055 while listing the case as 446,062. Treat these as lot-specific catalogue labels. The Dubai case number conflicts with Phillips and Sotheby's, which both give 446,052. [https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-38/lot-182 Monaco Legend, lot 182]; [https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/index.php/auction/exclusive-timepieces-36/lot-26 Monaco Legend, lot 26]; [https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-38/lot-67 Monaco Legend, lot 67]; [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/151223 Phillips, lot 155]; [https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/watches-online-dubai-edit/rolex-day-date-ref-6612b-extremely-rare-attractive-platinum-diamond-65/195872 Christie's Dubai, lot 65].

The arrival of the free-sprung Microstella balance is disputed. The usual account places it with the 66xx revision, but an auction description identifies a first-generation 6511 as free-sprung. Neither generation has quickset or hacking.

Steel school-watch records create a separate problem: Antiquorum lists 1556 for a 2002 lot and 1066 for a 2013 lot, while Phillips describes later steel Day-Date prototypes with 1555-series movements. These are catalogue descriptions of disputed school/prototype watches, not confirmed 6611 production fitments. See [[Reference:6611|the 6611 record]] for the lot-level distinctions.

Auction catalogues disagree on the movement fitted to ref. 6511. Phillips lists Cal. 1555 for case 111,654, and Dorotheum lists Cal. 1555 for case 166736. Phillips lot 41, Antiquorum lot 81, Bonhams lot 156, Monaco Legend lots 22 and 220, and Dorotheum's 2017 lot for case 166744 list Cal. 1055. Phillips dates Cal. 1555 to 1959, later than the dates assigned to both 1555-labelled cases. The 2017 Dorotheum listing dates case 166744 circa 1965, while Pergola's unofficial chart puts the number in its 1956 band. Its front-view image offers no readable serial, leaving the two dates in conflict. Each entry is a catalogue attribution; keep it attached to its lot pending inspection of the movement.

<span id="cal-1555"></span>
=== Cal. 1555 ===
[[File:Cal 1555 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 1555, rotor bridge detail|alt=Cal. 1555, rotor bridge detail]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 25
|-
| frequency
| 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 42h
|-
| size
| 7.03mm
|-
| escapement
| Swiss lever (Cal. 1530 train)
|-
| balance
| Free-sprung beryllium-bronze, Microstella screws
|-
| shock
| KIF Flector
|}

Cal. 1555 powered early four-digit Day-Dates, including the refs. 1803, 1804, 1806, 1807 and 1811, from 1959 to about 1967. It combines the day-and-date architecture of Cal. 1055 with the plate and most running components of Cal. 1530. Its distinct parts are concentrated in the motion and calendar work, some shared with the contemporary Datejust Cal. 1575.

The Swiss lever escapement comes from Cal. 1530 and uses KIF Flector protection. The free-sprung balance uses a Nivarox Breguet overcoil and screw-shaped Microstella adjusters. Rolex did not adopt the later nut-shaped Microstella components until 1983.

Cal. 1555 does not hack; unlike the 1972 revision of Cal. 1556, its parts list has no balance-stop spring. Wear in the mainspring-barrel bearing is a known fault. As the plate and bridge bores wear out of round, the barrel can tilt and reduce amplitude; Rolex supplied a replacement upper barrel bush for the repair.

Five stainless-steel Day-Dates are publicly known, none with a listed reference or case serial. Christie's records movement numbers 0004547, 0005073, DD411420, DD14749 and DD081221. Their casebacks are signed Rolex and stamped "Stainless Steel"; the known examples have French day discs, black hands and silvered dials, with provenance linked to former Rolex watchmakers. Christie's identifies them as workshop test pieces. Movement DD411420 is engraved 1555 but runs at the Cal. 1556 frequency of 19,800 vph, placing it between the two generations.

The prototype's jewel count is disputed. Antiquorum gives 25, matching the bridge signature, while Phillips gives 26, the figure for Cal. 1556. At 7.03mm, Cal. 1555 is the thickest member of the 1500 series. The stepped "pie-pan" dial remained in use until about 1970, outlasting the caliber.

<span id="cal-1556"></span>
=== Cal. 1556 ===
[[File:Cal 1556 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 1556|alt=Cal. 1556]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 26
|-
| frequency
| 19,800 vph (2.8 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 42h
|-
| escapement
| Swiss lever, 52° lift angle
|-
| shock
| KIF Flector, both balance pivots
|}

Cal. 1556 succeeded the 1555 around 1965 and powered the mid- and late four-digit Day-Date until 1977 or 1978. A revised gear train raised the frequency, while a jewel at the top of the centre wheel brought the count to 26. Its rhodium-plated movement has perlage finishing, a full balance bridge and a screwed balance with two gold, star-shaped Microstella regulating screws. Hacking was added during production in 1972 without a new caliber designation; earlier examples do not hack.

<span id="cal-1566"></span>
=== Cal. 1566 ===
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 26
|-
| escapement
| Straight-line lever
|-
| balance
| Monometallic, free-sprung Breguet spring
|}

Cal. 1566 was built for one case, the platinum [[Reference:1831|Day-Date 1831]] commissioned for the Shah of Iran and delivered from 1977. The rhodium-plated movement has a free-sprung Breguet hairspring, Microstella regulation and hacking. Sources record either eight or nine examples. One concordance assigns the ref. 1831 to Cal. 1556, while auction houses that examined the watches identify Cal. 1566.

<span id="cal-3055"></span>
=== Cal. 3055 ===
[[File:Cal 3055 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 3055, period parts-catalogue illustration with day-disc|alt=Cal. 3055, period parts-catalogue illustration with day-disc]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 27
|-
| frequency
| 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 48h
|-
| escapement
| Swiss lever
|-
| balance
| Free-sprung Glucydur, Microstella
|-
| shock
| KIF
|}

Cal. 3055 powered refs. 18038, 18039, 18048, 18049, 18078, 18079, [[Reference:18108|18108]] and early 18238 in the 1977–1988 generation. It introduced quickset for the date, while the day still advanced through the motion of the hands. The balance cock provides the usual visual distinction from Cal. 3155, which uses a full transversal bridge. Common references give a height of 6.3mm, but Rolex's parts diagram specifies 7.11mm.

<span id="cal-3155"></span>
=== Cal. 3155 ===
[[File:Cal 3155 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 3155, engraved "3155," EmmyWatch|alt=Cal. 3155, engraved "3155," EmmyWatch]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 31
|-
| frequency
| 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 48h
|-
| balance
| Free-sprung Glucydur, Microstella
|-
| shock
| KIF Elastor
|}

Cal. 3155 replaced the 3055 in 1988 and remained in production through 2019. It added independent correction of the day, giving the Day-Date a double quickset for both calendar displays.

The added quickset works raised the jewel count from 27 to 31. Published height figures vary between 6.00 and 6.45mm, with no known Rolex document settling the discrepancy. As elsewhere in the 31xx family, a full bridge and larger balance wheel replaced the older balance cock.

The hairspring stud is laser-welded rather than glued as on Cals. 3035 and 3055. Parachrom arrived between 2008 and 2010 according to Grail Watch Reference, or by 2013 according to Watch Wiki. Cal. 3155 retained KIF Elastor throughout and never received Paraflex, which Rolex fitted to the Day-Date II's Cal. 3156.

<span id="cal-3156"></span>
=== Cal. 3156 ===
[[File:Cal 3156 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 3156, engraved "3156," Day-Date II official brochure image|alt=Cal. 3156, engraved "3156," Day-Date II official brochure image]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 31
|-
| frequency
| 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 48h
|-
| size
| 30.97mm
|-
| escapement
| Swiss lever, 31xx family (pre-Chronergy)
|-
| balance
| Parachrom hairspring (3155 base)
|-
| regulator
| Free-sprung, gold Microstella nuts, traversing bridge
|-
| shock
| Paraflex
|}

Cal. 3156 is a widened Cal. 3155 derivative built for the 41mm Day-Date II from 2008 to 2015. It adds a Parachrom hairspring and Paraflex protection and powers the refs. 218238, 218239, 218206 and 218235. Its 30.97mm main plate carries the enlarged calendar wheels needed to move the date window outward. The same wider format appears on Cals. 3132, 3136 and 3187. Published specifications often give the standard 28.5mm width, but Rolex's promotional photography shows the additional flange recorded by Stephen Foskett's Grail Watch Reference.

Only the plate-and-bridge layer is oversized. The running train, escapement, keyless works and date mechanism use standard 31xx-family components, while structural parts such as the barrel bridge are shared with the wider Cals. 3132, 3136 and 3187 rather than the 3155.

The oscillator comes from Cal. 3155: a large free-sprung balance with gold Microstella nuts, a Breguet overcoil and a height-adjustable transversal bridge. Below it is the conventional Swiss lever escapement used across the 31xx family. Its 2015 successor, Cal. 3255, introduced the paramagnetic nickel-phosphorus Chronergy escapement. Rolex credits that design with a 15 per cent efficiency gain and about half of the increase from 48 to 70 hours of power reserve.

Cal. 3156 uses Paraflex shock protection; Cal. 3155 retains KIF Elastor. Rolex filed the design in 2005, and the European patent was granted in 2008. Its spring connects to the bearing body through four arms arranged around a central support, replacing the two-arm layout common to earlier systems. Rolex claims up to 50 per cent greater shock absorption than KIF; that is a manufacturer claim, not an independent test. [https://patents.google.com/patent/US7234859B2/en Rolex patent US7234859B2]

Cal. 3156 was confined to the 41mm Day-Date II. Rolex retired both in 2015, replacing them with the 40mm Day-Date and Cal. 3255, while the 36mm Cal. 3155 remained in production until 2019. Most Cal. 3156 watches carried the COSC −4/+6 seconds-per-day standard. Rolex adopted its −2/+2 rating in the caliber's final year, 2015.

<span id="oysterquartz-family"></span>
== Oysterquartz ==

Secondary collector references place total Oysterquartz production just under 25,000 watches, but no factory production total is cited here. The line followed the Beta 21-powered ref. 5100 of 1970, developed through the Centre Electronique Horloger consortium. The Beta 21 would not fit an Oyster case. Rolex left the consortium in 1972 and spent five years developing Cals. 5035 and 5055 in-house.

<span id="cal-5035"></span>
=== Cal. 5035 ===
[[File:Cal 5035 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 5035, engraved "5035," "11 ELEVEN JEWELS," "1.55V," EmmyWatch|alt=Cal. 5035, engraved "5035," "11 ELEVEN JEWELS," "1.55V," EmmyWatch]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Quartz
|-
| jewels
| 11
|-
| frequency
| 32,768 Hz crystal
|-
| drive
| Mobile-frame step-by-step motor, pallet fork, 1 beat/s
|-
| circuit
| C-MOS module: oscillator, binary divider, impulse amplifier
|-
| rate adjustment
| Trimmer, about 2 s/d total range
|-
| battery
| 1.55V silver-oxide, 24+ months
|-
| size
| 29.75mm diameter (29.00mm case-fitting), 6.35mm high
|}

Cal. 5035 powered Oysterquartz Datejust and Oyster Perpetual references, including the 17000, 17013 and 17014, from 1977 to 2001. Its date mechanism follows the same principle as the mechanical Cal. 3035 introduced in the same year.

Rolex calls the drive a mobile-frame step-by-step motor. Unlike a conventional quartz stepper, its coil moves while the magnets remain fixed. A polarised pulse swings the coil frame once per second, and a finger on the frame drives a pallet fork connected directly to the seconds wheel. The pallet locks the wheel between pulses. Its audible tick comes from that engagement and sounds closer to a mechanical escapement than a conventional quartz motor.

The C-MOS module contains the oscillator, a binary divider that reduces 32,768 Hz to one pulse per second, and the motor's impulse amplifier. A trimmer provides a total adjustment range of about two seconds per day. Rolex specified regulation to ±0.05 seconds per day at about 28°C.

Temperature compensation remains uncertain. Secondary accounts describe a thermocompensated oscillator with a thermistor, but Rolex's technical document mentions neither. It instead shows a parabolic rate curve with an inversion point at 26 ±2°C and specifies adjustment near the 28°C temperature of a worn watch. The document may predate a later revision, but it does not support the usual thermistor claim.

Rolex specified accuracy within one minute per year under normal wear and battery life beyond 24 months. The movement draws no more than 9 microamps, of which the electronics use at most 3. There is no battery end-of-life indication; erratic running is the warning. Hacking cuts current to the motor, and the seconds hand restarts one second after the crown returns to its running position.

The electronic module and motor are sensitive to contamination, and the mobile-frame pivots run dry. Rolex supplied the motor only as a complete unit rather than as separate components.

<span id="cal-5055"></span>
=== Cal. 5055 ===
[[File:Cal 5055 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 5055, engraved "5055," "11 ELEVEN JEWELS," EmmyWatch|alt=Cal. 5055, engraved "5055," "11 ELEVEN JEWELS," EmmyWatch]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Quartz
|-
| jewels
| 11
|-
| frequency
| 32,768 Hz crystal
|-
| drive
| Mobile-frame step-by-step motor, pallet fork, 1 beat/s
|-
| circuit
| C-MOS module: oscillator, binary divider, impulse amplifier
|-
| rate adjustment
| Trimmer, about 2 s/d total range
|-
| battery
| 1.55V silver-oxide, 24+ months
|-
| size
| 29.75mm diameter (29.00mm case-fitting), 7.11mm high
|}

Cal. 5055 is the Day-Date counterpart to Cal. 5035. The two share their motor and electronic module, while the 5055's calendar follows the principle of the mechanical Cal. 3055. Its day-disc stack increases the height from 6.35 to 7.11mm.

Catalogue descriptions treat Cal. 5055 as COSC-certified from early production. The exact certification and crystal changeover dates for Cal. 5055 and Cal. 5035 are not settled in the sources reviewed, so early Oysterquartz dial text should be checked against the individual watch.

Cal. 5055 adds the day mechanism and its stricter tolerances. Rolex specified hour-wheel endshake below 0.03mm and calendar change within two minutes of midnight. The day disc is a separate replaceable part, allowing the display language to be changed without altering the movement.

Cal. 5055 powers the yellow-gold [[Reference:19018|ref. 19018]], white-gold [[Reference:19019|ref. 19019]] and pyramid-bezel [[Reference:19028|ref. 19028]]. Claims about cancelled successor calibers are omitted because the cited factory material does not document them.

<span id="prince-appendix"></span>
== Related but not Rolex ==

Gruen Cal. 877 and the Bubbleback-era "9¾ ligne" description are often misidentified as Rolex calibers. Gruen's Cal. 877, used in the Techni-Quadron, is an Aegler-built architectural sibling of Cal. 300 sold under Gruen's name in the United States. It was never a Rolex commercial number. A Bubbleback-era "9¾ ligne" description records only the movement's size class, not a distinct caliber designation. The three circa-1940 Christie’s ref. 3064 catalogues reviewed for this audit use the same size-class wording and do not name a caliber; keep the 3064 movement attribution tied to those lot descriptions.

== Sources ==

* [https://www.powerwatch.jp/2022/08/22/royal/ Watch LIFE News / LowBEAT, “Rolex’s simple hand-wound models” (Japanese), 22 August 2022]
* [https://everywatch.com/rolex/2280/watch-9112655 EveryWatch archive of Bonhams 2012 lot 127, ref. 2280 case 79,895]
* [https://www.watch-wiki.net/doku.php?id=Rolex_calibres Watch-Wiki, Cal. 1570 list, ref. 1022 entry (1965–1974)]
* [https://rolexhaven.com/serial-numbers.html Pergola serial chart photograph, unofficial year bands]
* [https://www.lot-art.com/auction-lots/Rolex-Oyster-Perpetual-Wristwatch/134-rolex_oyster_wristwatch-12.6.18-waddington Waddington’s, ref. 1023/8B, Cal. 1570]
* [https://www.hessfineauctions.com/auction-lot/rare-rolex-1023-mens-14k-gold-orig-brickwork-gold_a8c065ff1b Hess Fine Auctions, ref. 1023 lot 12570, Cal. 1570]
* [https://archive.watch.de/archive_english/rolex-oyster-perpetual-rindengravur-18kt-gelbgold-automatik-armband-leder-34mm-ref-1023-vintage-bj-1969-box-beschreibung-wie-neu-mit-zertifikat-uber-11-900.html Watch.de archive, ref. 1023, Cal. 1570]
* [https://www.rolexforums.com/showthread.php?t=856109 Rolex Forums, 2022 ref. 1023 listing and movement photograph]
* [https://www.the-saleroom.com/de-de/auction-catalogues/gardiner-houlgate/catalogue-id-srgard10204/pdfexport Gardiner Houlgate, 20 May 2025, lot 73, ref. 1023, Cal. 1560]
* [https://www.kaplans.se/en/auktioner/3967?p=2 Kaplans Auktioner, 2 October 2021, ref. 1023 serial 2186841, Cal. 1570]
* [https://www.timeconnectioninc.com/pages/rolex-case-reference-list-1000-thru-1873 Time Connection II, ref. 1023 replacement-parts row]
* [https://www.christies.com/lot/rolex-a-rare-stainless-steel-automatic-wristwatch-6139178/?intObjectID=6139178&lid=1 Christie’s, ref. 6556, case 138'822, Cal. 1040]
* [https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-restoration-of-a-rolex-tru-beat-caliber-1040-reference-6556 Aaron Berlow, Cal. 1040 restoration, Hodinkee, 2015]
* [https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/bring-a-loupe-april-8-2016 Hodinkee, ref. 6556 dial and service observations, 2016]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-260-217 Antiquorum, ref. 6556 and proposed ref. 1020, 2012]
* [https://uhren-muser.de/archives/100/50452 Dr. Crott, ref. 6556 and proposed ref. 1020, 2019]
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/101269 Phillips, ref. 6556, 18K gold, Cal. 1040]
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/139759 Phillips, ref. 6556, Cal. 1040 and steel case]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-6556-0-oyster-perpetual-tru-beat-lot-327-215 Antiquorum, ref. 6556/0, Cal. 1040, 2020]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-6556-tru-beat-lot-345-357 Antiquorum, ref. 6556, Cal. 1040, 2021]
* [https://www.vintagewatchstraps.com/blogoysterwatchco.php David Boettcher, “Oyster Watch Co.”; FHF 30 and Tudor Cal. 59/59SC]

* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2022/fine-watches-13/reference-6609-thunderbird-a-yellow-gold-automatic Sotheby's, ref. 6609, circa 1956, Cal. 1065]
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6067485 Christie's, ref. 6609, circa 1956, Cal. 1066]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-6609-datejust-thunderbird-lot-327-106 Antiquorum, ref. 6609 case 447272, Cal. 1066]
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080118/118 Phillips, ref. 6609 emblem-dial example, catalogued Cal. 1030]
* [https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-36/lot-46 Monaco Legend, ref. 6609 case 280389, Cal. 1065]
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/138071 Phillips, ref. 6609 case 355605, Cal. 1065]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-108-63 Antiquorum, ref. 6567, 1956, Cal. 1030]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-63-114 Antiquorum, 2000, ref. 6564, Cal. 1050]
* [https://ineichen.com/auctions/timed-83/4/ Ineichen, 2025, ref. 6567, Cal. 1050]
* [https://images3.bonhams.com/original?src=Images%2Flive%2F2015-04%2F23%2FS-22886-0-1.pdf Bonhams, 2015, ref. 6569, Cal. 1050]
* [https://www.christies.com/lot/lot-rolex-a-rare-stainless-steel-automatic-wristwatch-5892833/ Christie's, circa 1955, Submariner ref. 6536/1, Cal. 1050]
* [https://www.adams.ie/W103-lot-33-ROLEX-REF-1022-OYSTER-PERPETUAL-18K-YELLOW-GOLD-FLORENTINE-FINISH-CASE-A?auction_no=W103&page_no=3&sort_by=lot_no Adams, ref. 1022, 2025, Cal. 1560]
* [https://images3.bonhams.com/original?src=Images%2Flive%2F2015-04%2F23%2FS-22886-0-1.pdf Bonhams, ref. 1022, 2015, Cal. 1560]
* [https://www.pandolfini.it/it/asta-0036-1/orologio-da-rolex-oyster-perpetual-ref-1022--201405270143200 Pandolfini, ref. 1022, 2014, Cal. 1560]
* [https://www.tajan.com/auction-lot/rolex-oyster-perpetual-ref-1022-vers-1964-montre-_FA27968B44 Tajan, ref. 1022, 2014, automatic movement; caliber not stated]
* [https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/1963-rolex-oyster-perpetual-ref-1022-florentine-finish HODINKEE Shop, ref. 1022, 1963, Cal. 1560]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2023/important-watches-online/prince-imperial-reference-1645-a-rolesium-steel Sotheby’s, 2023, Prince Imperial 1645, lot 331]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-1645-prince-imperial-lot-357-321 Antiquorum, 2022, Prince Imperial 1645, lot 321]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-113-16 Antiquorum, 2006, Prince Imperial 1645, lot 16]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-1645-lot-320-31 Antiquorum, 2019, Prince Imperial 1645, lot 31]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-266-70 Antiquorum, 2012, Prince Imperial 1645, lot 70]

* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080115/40 Phillips, 2015, ref. 6511 case 111,654, movement listed as 1555]
* [https://www.dorotheum.com/en/l/10072651/ Dorotheum, 2026, ref. 6511 case 166736, movement listed as 1555]
* [https://www.dorotheum.com/de/l/604595/ Dorotheum, 2017, ref. 6511/8 case 166744, movement listed as 1055]
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080219/247 Phillips, Cal. 1555 chronology and experimental steel Day-Date]
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080115/41 Phillips, 2015, ref. 6511 case 134,692, movement listed as 1055]
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080115/50 Phillips, 2015, 6611 case 214,124, caliber 1055]
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080515/154 Phillips, 2015, 6611B case 401,546, caliber 1055B]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-31-37 Antiquorum, 2002, steel school watch catalogued as 6611, caliber 1556]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-6611-lot-278-573 Antiquorum, 2013, steel school watch catalogued as 6611, caliber 1066]
* [https://www.phillips.com/article/86237716/four-prototype-watches-from-the-geneva-watch-auction-xiv Phillips, 2021, steel Day-Date prototype account]

* [https://www.christies.com/lot/lot-5195914 Christie’s, lot 52: 8171 case 685878, A.295 CPL]
* [https://www.fratellowatches.com/a-few-complicated-rolex-watches-from-the-archives/ Giorgia Mondani, Fratello, 2020: case construction and calendar correctors]
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6185890 Christie’s: 6062 case 916321, caliber 655]

* [https://watchdoctor.biz/movements-and-calibers/ Watch Doctor: movements and calibers chart. Secondary compilation; no underlying Rolex document identified.]
* [https://www.incabloc.ch/en/history/ Incabloc: company history, production in 1933 and lyre-spring development in 1938.]
* [https://www.vrfm.io/Scans/TECHNICAL-SERVICE-INFO-3RD-EDITION-1978.pdf Rolex: Technical and Service Information, third edition, pp. 3 and 7; scan hosted by the Vintage Rolex Field Manual.]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2025/important-watches-part-i-ge2504/the-companion-oyster-mercedes-gleitze-rolex-oyster Sotheby’s Geneva 2025, lot 134: Gleitze Oyster and its upgraded movement.]
* [https://www.cosc.swiss/terms-conditions COSC: organization established in 1973.]
* [https://www.rolex.com/en-us/watch-care-and-service/the-rolex-servicing-procedure Rolex: examination and estimate before servicing.]

* [https://www.rolex.com/watchmaking/features/movements/perpetual-rotor Rolex: Perpetual rotor], mechanism introduced in 1931; caliber not specified.
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-32-486 Antiquorum Geneva, 16 November 2002, lot 486], ref. 4467 catalogued with Cal. 740 and a date display.
* [https://newsroom.rolex.com/watches/oyster-collection/explorer Rolex: Explorer history], return to 36mm in 2021.
* [https://media.rolex.com/rolexcom/media/user-guides/gmt-master-ii/rolex_gmt-master-ii_en-us Rolex GMT-Master II user guide], date linked to the independently adjustable local-hour hand.
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2023/important-watches-part-i/gmt-master-captain-warren-reference-6542-an-advert Sotheby's, circa-1958 6542, calibre 1030]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/fine-watches-4/reference-6542-gmt-master-a-stainless-steel Sotheby's, circa-1959 6542, case 451'698, calibre 1066]
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5841779 Christie's, circa-1959 gold 6542, case 486'469, calibre 1065]

* [https://revolutionwatch.com/a-movement-in-history-the-zenith-driven-rolex-daytona/ Revolution — A Movement in History: The Zenith-driven Rolex Daytona] (Ross Povey, 2018)
* [https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-vintage-watch-nerds-critical-dissection-of-the-rolex-daytona-past-to-present-part-1-3 Hodinkee — A Vintage Watch Nerd's Critical Dissection of the Rolex Daytona, Part 1] (Paul Boutros, 2012)
* [https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-vintage-watch-nerds-critical-dissection-of-the-rolex-daytona-past-to-present-pt-23 Hodinkee — A Vintage Watch Nerd's Critical Dissection of the Rolex Daytona, Part 2] (Paul Boutros, 2013)
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/history-rolex-daytona-chronograph-1963-in-depth-review/ Monochrome — In-Depth: The History of the Rolex Daytona] (Erik Slaven, 2024)
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/rolex-submariner-history-part-1-the-early-references/ Monochrome — History of the Rolex Submariner, Part 1] (Tom Mulraney, 2020)
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/rolex-submariner-history-part-2-the-55xx-1680references/ Monochrome — History of the Rolex Submariner, Part 2] (Tom Mulraney, 2020)
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/history-rolex-gmt-master-and-gmt-master-ii-1955-2024-iconic-traveller-watch-in-depth-review/ Monochrome — In-Depth: The History of the Rolex GMT-Master and GMT-Master II]
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/history-rolex-explorer-from-1953-36mm-1016-14270-114270-214270-124270-in-depth-review/ Monochrome — The History of the Rolex Explorer] (Frank Geelen, 2024)
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/history-rolex-explorer-ii-adventure-watch-gmt-1655-16550-16570-216570-226570-in-depth/ Monochrome — In-Depth: The History of the Rolex Explorer II]
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/rolex-explorer-14270-perfect-youngtimer-watch-vintage-corner/ Monochrome — Youngtimer Case Study, the Rolex Explorer 14270] (Frank Geelen, 2020)
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/rolex-explorer-214270-vs-previous-214270-review-history-rolex-explorer/ Monochrome — Rolex Explorer 214270 In-Depth Review] (Brice Goulard, 2016)
* [https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-explorer-reference-points Hodinkee — A Comprehensive Collector's Guide To The Rolex Explorer I] (Jon Bues, 2022)
* [https://www.watchtime.com/brands/watches/tracking-the-rolex-daytona-a-53-year-history WatchTime — Tracking the Rolex Daytona: A 55-Year History]
* [https://revolutionwatch.com/rolex-john-player-special-paul-newman-daytona-ref-6241/ Revolution — The Rolex "John Player Special" Paul Newman Daytona Ref. 6241] (Bob Ridley, 2017)
* [https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/rolex-pre-daytona-forgotten-classic A Collected Man — Is the Rolex Pre-Daytona a Forgotten Classic?] (Russell Sheldrake, 2020)
* [https://www.fratellowatches.com/why-i-bought-the-rolex-cosmograph-daytona-reference-116520/ Fratello — Why I Bought The Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Reference 116520] (Ben Hodges, 2021)
* [https://www.fratellowatches.com/rolex-submariner-14060m/ Fratello — Rolex Submariner 14060M Review]
* [https://www.fratellowatches.com/rolex-submariner-114060-review/ Fratello — Rolex Submariner 114060 Review] (2019)
* [https://www.fratellowatches.com/ceramic-bezel-close-up-of-the-rolex-gmt-master-ii-ref-116710ln/ Fratello — Ceramic Bezel close-up of the Rolex GMT-Master II ref. 116710LN]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2018/important-watches-n09952/lot.252.html Sotheby's — Submariner Ref 6536/1, Stainless Steel Automatic With Bracelet, Circa 1957]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/buy/25e5416b-f436-484a-834e-1ba10a9dfc69/lots/9a553d3f-0450-465f-b767-7f1946a7bfc0 Sotheby's — Submariner Ref. 6538, Stainless Steel With 4-Line Tropical Dial, Circa 1958]
* [https://calibercorner.com Caliber Corner — per-caliber technical database]
* [https://wiki.grail-watch.com/index.php/Rolex_630 Grail Watch Wiki — Rolex 630]
* [https://www.emmywatch.com EmmyWatch — vintage restoration movement photography]
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/complete-history-of-the-rolex-milgauss/ Monochrome — Complete History of the Rolex Milgauss]
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6067487 Christie’s, ref. 6543 case 145'111, Cal. 1080]
* [https://www.christies.com/lot/lot-5612347 Christie’s, ref. 6543 case 145'159, Cal. 1065]
* [https://revolutionwatch.com/rolex-milgauss-one-in-a-thousand/ Revolution, Milgauss movement and 6543 history]
* [https://www.watch-wiki.net/doku.php?id=Rolex_calibres Stephen Foskett, Watch-Wiki Cal. 1080 reference index for 6543]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2018/important-watches-n09952/lot.256.html Sotheby’s, 6541 case 412'479, Cal. 1080]
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/206388 Phillips, same case and movement number, Cal. 1055]
* [https://www.robbreport.com/style/watch-collector/most-expensive-rolex-watches-ever-sold-at-auction/ Robb Report — The Most Expensive Rolex Watches Ever Sold at Auction] (Sotheby's Mercedes Gleitze Oyster, November 2025)
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss Antiquorum — auction lot catalogue]
* [https://www.christies.com Christie's — auction lot catalogue]
* [https://jewelry.ha.com/itm/timepieces/rare-oyster-junior-sport-by-rolex-retailed-by-beyer-stainless-steel-manual-wind-ref-3136-circa-1940/a/5408-54065.s Heritage Auctions, ref. 3136 case 105063, FHF 30 / Cal. 59]
* [https://www.waddingtons.ca/auction/wrist-pocket-watches-dec-12-2024/gallery/lot/85/ Waddington's, ref. 3136 case 147396, Cal. 59]
* [https://www.sothebys.com Sotheby's — auction lot catalogue]
* [https://www.watch-wiki.net Watch Wiki — reference concordance]
* [http://www.vrfm.io/Scans/CALIBER-5035-5055-TECHNICAL-INFORMATION.pdf Montres Rolex SA — ''Technical Information No. 13: Calibre 5035 / Calibre 5055''] (factory service documentation, scan hosted by ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'')
* [https://www.oysterquartz.net/the_5035_movement.htm Oysterquartz.net — the 5035/5055 movement]
* [https://www.rolex.com/watchmaking/features/movements/reversing-wheels Rolex — Reversing Wheels, Watchmaking Features] (red anodised-aluminium finish, introduced 1957)
* [https://newsroom-content.rolex.com/-/media/project/rolex/newsroom/rolex/rolex-newsroom-int/2024/brochures/features/en/02_rolex_superlative_english_2024.pdf Rolex — ''Superlative Chronometer Certification: Redefining Performance''] (brochure, 2024; certification redefined 2015)
* [https://patents.google.com/patent/US6503341B2/en Patent US6503341B2 — Self-compensating spiral for a spiral balance-wheel] (Montres Rolex SA; Jacques Baur and Patrick Sol; priority 1999, granted 2003 — the Parachrom hairspring)
* [https://patents.google.com/patent/US7234859B2/en Patent US7234859B2 / EP1705537 — Shock-absorbing bearing for a timepiece] (Montres Rolex SA; Mitchell Colle and Roman Voirol; priority 2005 — Paraflex)
* [https://watchesbysjx.com/2021/08/rolex-parachrom-hairspring-explained.html SJX Watches — Explained: The Rolex Parachrom Hairspring] (Nb-Zr alloy, anodised oxide layer, frequency shift)
* [https://reference.grail-watch.com/movement/rolex-3136/ Grail Watch Reference — Rolex Cal. 3136] (Stephen Foskett; Paraflex fitted to the 3136 and not to the base 3135)
* [https://calibercorner.com/rolex-caliber-3131/ Caliber Corner — Rolex Caliber 3131] (Kif on the 3131, Paraflex on the 3132)
* [http://www.superlativetime.com/identification-of-rolex-calibres Superlative Time — Identification of Rolex Calibres 1520–1580] (balance-bridge forms 1–4; Kif Flector and Kif Elastor assignment)
* [https://mb.nawcc.org/threads/regulate-rolex-1520.160574/ NAWCC message board — Regulate Rolex 1520] (watchmakers on the inertia-block system and the free-sprung misreading)
* [https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/vintagerolexforum/history-of-1530-movement-t23616.html Vintage Rolex Forum — History of the 1530 movement] (introduction c.1957, butterfly rotor, chronometer status)
* [https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/28412-rolex-3135-510-drive-wheel-for-ratchet-appears-to-be-worn-not-winding-watch-enough/ Watch Repair Talk — Rolex 3135-510 ratchet drive wheel wear]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-3121-oyster-grenfell-lot-376-219 Antiquorum Geneva, 3 April 2025, lot 219]: ref. 3121 Oyster Grenfell, case 43,475, circa 1938, Cal. 59, 17 jewels.
* [https://timeanagram.com/products/7507 TimeAnagram, item 7507]: ref. 3121 listed as manual Cal. 710; the movement image shows no readable caliber stamp.
* ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' — Colin A. White, Morning Tundra
* [https://watchguy.co.uk/tmp/Rolex%201560.pdf Rolex Cal. 1560 spare-parts sheet no. 31; scan hosted by WatchGuy]
* [https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/0b5fdf83/files/uploaded/1.0%20RolexBook-23Mar.pdf The Vintage Rolex Field Manual, printed p. 74, chronograph table]
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-874668 Christie’s, model 1074, 1920s example]
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-1473066 Christie’s, ref. 1074, case 25433]
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-204177 Christie’s, case no. 1223 monopusher]
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6049981 Christie’s, ref. 28D1 pocket chronograph, movement no. 1223]

* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-6075-lot-283-107 Antiquorum Geneva, 2014, ref. 6075 case 714441]: catalogued as A.295, with a 10½-ligne description.
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080515/284 Phillips Geneva, 2015, ref. 6075 case 714440]: catalogued as A.296, 18 jewels.
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6042730 Christie’s, ref. 6075 case 699455]: catalogued as A.295.
* [https://live.mortonsubastas.com/en/online-auctions/morton-subastas/reloj-rolex-vintage-oyster-perpetual-en-acero-y-chapa-ref-1024-ca-1965---1966-movimiento-autom-tico-6579392 Morton Subastas, ref. 1024, 2024, Cal. 1560]
* [https://www.waddingtons.ca/auction/wrist-pocket-watches-dec-12-2024/gallery/lot/5/ Waddington's, ref. 1024, 2024, Cal. 1560]
* [https://www.dorotheum.com/de/l/5280014/ Dorotheum, ref. 1024, 2018, Cal. 1570]
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/HK080121/904 Phillips, ref. 1024, 2021, Cal. 1570]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-108-22 Antiquorum, ref. 1010/1011, 1960, Cal. 1560, case 576171]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-213-465 Antiquorum, ref. 1010/1011, 1962, Cal. 1560, case 933961]
* [https://jewelry.ha.com/itm/timepieces/wristwatch/rolex-ref-1010-vintage-gold-oyster-perpetual-original-box-and-papers-circa-1962/a/5049-60215.s Heritage Auctions, ref. 1010, circa 1962, Cal. 1560, case 646320]
* [https://images3.bonhams.com/original?src=Images%2Flive%2F2015-04%2F23%2FS-22886-0-1.pdf Bonhams, ref. 1010, circa 1967, Cal. 1560, case 1659430]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-1010-oyster-perpetual-lot-334-19 Antiquorum, ref. 1010, circa 1968, Cal. 1570, case 1,960,000]
* [https://www.1stdibs.com/jewelry/watches/wrist-watches/rolex-14-karat-yellow-gold-bombe-ref-1011-circa-1960/id-j_6301282/ 1stDibs item text: claimed ref. 1010, Cal. 1560; title says ref. 1011]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-108-45 Antiquorum, ref. 1011, 1960, Cal. 1560, case 546423]
* [https://www.christies.com/lot/lot-5496491 Christie’s, ref. 1011 case 692498, circa 1962, Cal. 1570]
* [https://jewelry.ha.com/itm/timepieces/wristwatch/rolex-ref-1011-bombe-lugs-14k-gold-oyster-perpetual/a/171226-74030.s Heritage, ref. 1011, Cal. 1560, 2012]
* [https://www.waddingtons.ca/?p=54274 Waddington’s, ref. 1011, Eaton’s presentation dial, Cal. 1520]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-111-143 Antiquorum Milan, 1996 Eaton’s ref. 1011, Cal. 1530]
* [https://loupethis.com/auctions/rolex-oyster-perpetual-1011-eaton-quarter-century-club-14k-yg Loupe This lot 2475, photo of Cal. 1530 in case marked 1011]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-51-654 Antiquorum Geneva, 2004, Eaton’s ref. 1011, 17-jewel Cal. 1530]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-34-139 Antiquorum New York, 2003, Eaton’s ref. 1011, Cal. 1520]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-257-412 Antiquorum New York, 2011, Eaton’s ref. 1011, 26-jewel Cal. 1530]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-160-93 Antiquorum New York, 2007, Eaton’s ref. 5590/1011, Cal. 1530]
* [https://www.finarte.it/asta/orologi-milano-2024-12-16/rolex-bombay-5590-1011-personalizzato-per-eaton-137265 Finarte Milan, 2024, Eaton’s ref. 5590-1011, Cal. 1530]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-203-530 Antiquorum, ref. 6094/6294, 2008, lot 530]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-242-134 Antiquorum, ref. 6094, 2010, lot 134]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-6094-tropical-lot-262-291 Antiquorum, ref. 6094, 2012, lot 291]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-6094-oysterdate-precision-lot-313-138 Antiquorum, ref. 6094, 2018, lot 138]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-1768-lot-307-118 Antiquorum, ref. 1768 case 019784, 2017: 7½-line T.S. 300 listed with 15 jewels]
* [https://uhren-muser.de/en/archives/108/57379 Uhren-Muser, ref. 1768 case 019794, 2023: photographed Extra Prima marked 17 Rubies]

* [https://www.vrfm.io/Scans/TECHNICAL-SERVICE-INFO-3RD-EDITION-1978.pdf Rolex Technical and Service Information, third edition (1978), Cal. 1600]
* [https://www.farsettiarte.it/uk/auction-0264-2/rolex-cellini-ref-3735-1967-107363 Farsetti, ref. 3735, lot 107363]
* [https://www.invaluable.com/auction-lot/rolex-cellini-blue-dial-in-18k-white-gold-113-c-d154d64b31 Fortuna, ref. 3735, lot 113]
* [https://www.watch-wiki.net/doku.php?id=Rolex_calibres Watch-Wiki, Cal. 1570 reference list, including 1022]
* [https://www.timeconnectioninc.com/pages/rolex-case-reference-list-1000-thru-1873 Time Connection II, 1022 case-parts row listing Cal. 1560 and 1570]
* [https://www.1stdibs.com/jewelry/watches/wrist-watches/rolex-mens-18k-rolex-oyster-perpetual-1022-automatic-c1963-swiss-vintage-lv800/id-j_9711082/ LV800 via 1stDibs, ref. 1022, case 856242, Cal. 1560, 26 jewels]
* [https://mastersoftime.com/product/rolex-oyster-viceroy/ Master of Time, Viceroy ref. 1573, dealer-attributed Cal. 600]
* [https://www.emmywatch.com/wp-content/plugins/watchsearch/inc/documents/rolex--1565--movement_parts.pdf Rolex Cal. 1565 parts catalogue, Rolex technical department]
* [https://www.clubderelojeria.com/comunicaciones/R/ROLEX/rolex1575/ROLEX%201575.pdf Rolex Cal. 1575 parts catalogue, Rolex technical department]
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/HK080319/903 Phillips, HK Auction NINE lot 903, exterior ref. 6558 / inner stamp 6556, Cal. 1040]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-108-12 Antiquorum Geneva 2006, ref. 6082 case 784516, Cal. 710]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-6082-oyster-lot-343-309 Antiquorum Hong Kong 2021, ref. 6082 case 721396, Cal. 710]
* [https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/index.php/auction/exclusive-timepieces-32/lot-162 Monaco Legend 2023, ref. 6082 case 810693, Cal. 710]
* [https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/0b5fdf83/files/uploaded/1.0%20RolexBook-23Mar.pdf Colin A. White, The Vintage Rolex Field Manual, reference table: 6082 / Cal. 710]
* [https://www.kibblewatches.co.uk/products/1952-rolex-oyster-concentric-dial-manual-34mm-6082 Kibble Watches, concentric-dial ref. 6082 listing, seller identifies Cal. 1210]
* [https://archive.watch.de/archive_germany/rolex-oyster-handaufzug-stahl-gelbgold-ref-6082-vintage.html Watch.de archive, ref. 6082 case 721965, seller identifies Cal. 1210]
* [https://jewelry.ha.com/itm/timepieces/rolex-ref-1013-large-18k-yellow-gold-non-date-oyster-perpetual-chronometer-circa-1957/a/5309-54155.s Heritage Auctions, ref. 1013 case 488087, circa 1957, Cal. 1560]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-1013-oyster-perpetual-lot-364-184 Antiquorum, ref. 1013 case 952437, circa 1962, Cal. 1560]
* [https://electronicsandbooks.com/edt/manual/Art/Auction/MonacoLegendAuctions%20MC/202104%20catalogue_0024.pdf Monaco Legend Auctions, ref. 1013 case 1,368,354, 1966, Cal. 1570]
* [https://www.gazette-drouot.com/en/lots/27208550-rolex-montre-en-or-jaune- Gazette Drouot, ref. 1013, circa 1968, Cal. 1570]
* [https://www.ragoarts.com/auctions/2022/02/interesting-timepieces/506 Rago, ref. 1013 serial 5,266,934, 1978, Cal. 1570]
* [https://shop.hodinkee.com/collections/vintage-watches-sold/products/semi-bubble-back-ref-6108 Hodinkee Shop, ref. 6108 case 803948]
* [https://jewelry.ha.com/itm/timepieces/wristwatch/rolex-steel-bubbleback-ref-6108/a/171206-74039.s Heritage Auctions, 2012, lot 74039, ref. 6108 case 803752]
* [https://www.uhreneder.de/en/wristwatches/vintage-rolex/rolex-oyster-perpetual Antike Uhren Eder, ref. 6108 item 7140rol]

Reference:oyster-perpetual

2026-10-14T00:32:11Z

Klaudiusz: [bot-audit] proposal #57 ref=oyster-perpetual agents=refutter_review (FlaggedRevs pending review)

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex Oyster Perpetual}}
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|description=Reference guide to Oyster Perpetual lineages that keep the name directly, from the 1950s flat-caseback references through the classic four-digit time-only models. Bubbleback and Air-King have separate hubs.
|keywords=Rolex, Oyster Perpetual, family, history, references, 1002, 1018, 6098
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<div class="rp-lead">
[[File:Oyster Perpetual family hero.webp|thumb|center|640px|alt=Rolex Oyster Perpetual family|Rolex Oyster Perpetual family]]
</div>

The Oyster Perpetual combines an Oyster case with automatic winding. The name also appears on Rolex watches with their own model names. This page covers the lineages that carry the Oyster Perpetual name directly and have not split into their own hub: the 1950s flat-caseback generation, the four-digit time-only models, and the Date-equipped 1500 series. Early manual-wind Oysters are covered on the Bubbleback and early Oyster hub. [[Reference:bubbleback|Bubbleback]] and [[Reference:air-king|Air-King]] are close relatives on the same case architecture and have their own family hubs.

== References in scope ==

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Reference !! Production !! Movement !! Notes
|-
| [[Reference:1069|1069]] || Auction examples dated 1920s and circa 1930; span unproved || Manual-wind; lot-specific caliber descriptions || Early cushion-case Oyster, including Solar Aqua/Anti-Magnetic dial
|-
| [[Reference:2136|2136]] / [[Reference:2574|2574]] / [[Reference:3139|3139]] / [[Reference:3358|3358]] / [[Reference:3359|3359]] / [[Reference:4220|4220]] || 1930s–1940s || manual-wind || Early Oyster / Oyster Royal / Speedking generation, before the Perpetual rotor became standard across the line
|-
| [[Reference:6098|6098]] / [[Reference:6085|6085]] / [[Reference:6084|6084]] / [[Reference:6564|6564]] / [[Reference:6580|6580]] || 1950s; see individual references || Varies by reference || The 1950s flat-caseback group. Catalogues document 6085 in steel, gold, and a steel-and-gold example, with waffle, black, silvered, and cloisonné Dragon dials; these are individual watches, not a complete specification. Reference 6084 is described as a transitional "Semi-Bubbleback" case; 6564 is an 18k gold example with an early "Brevet" patent marking; 6580 has documented steel honeycomb-dial examples.
|-
| [[Reference:6106|6106]] || Auction examples dated 1951 and circa 1952 || Antiquorum identifies Cal. 645; Monaco Legend uses A260, a size-family code shared with Cal. 645 || Steel 34 mm examples with several dial layouts, including a 3-6-9 dial described as Explorer-style. Production span and dial originality are not established
|-
| [[Reference:6502|6502]] || Auction examples mostly dated to the 1950s; case 994893 has a circa-1964 auction date that conflicts with its circa-1954 serial-chart estimate || Cal. 1030 in auction catalogues and Watch-Wiki || No-date, gold Oyster Perpetual, 34–35 mm in catalogues. The article consolidates duplicate case 36675 and explains the disputed 6502/6603 attribution for case 36701
|-
| [[Reference:6556|6556]] || Auction catalogues report introduction in 1954; examples dated 1955–circa 1962 do not establish the production end || Cal. 1040; examined lots catalogue 26 jewels || Oyster Perpetual Tru-Beat; also called Metropolitan in some markets. Steel predominates in Antiquorum’s account; 18K gold examples are documented. One Phillips lot identifies the exterior as 6558 and the inner caseback as 6556; it does not establish a separate 6558 production reference. The U.S.-exclusive dial claim remains unverified
|-
| [[Reference:6567|6567]] || Auction examples dated circa 1954–1960 || Cal. 1030 in the Field Manual and multiple Antiquorum lots; Ineichen lists Cal. 1050 on one example || Mid-size, no-date Oyster Perpetual documented in gold, steel and mixed-metal cases. Catalogue movement attributions conflict; its placement within the flat-caseback group remains uncertain
|-
| [[Reference:6548|6548]] || Individual catalogue dates circa 1942/43–1969; early estimates conflict || Auction lots attribute cal. 1130, 1160 and 1161; the dates do not establish a changeover || Small no-date Oyster Perpetual; catalogue diameters 28–32 mm; steel, gold, two-tone and platinum examples. Dorotheum and Jones & Horan list Cal. 1130 on serials 230584 and 230918, but assign dates circa 1942/43 and 1957 respectively. [https://www.dorotheum.com/en/l/8560852/ Dorotheum] [https://www.auctions.jones-horan.com/1901/html/rolex.htm Jones & Horan] [https://ranfft.org/caliber/12808-Rolex-1130?from=manufacturer Ranfft] [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2025/important-watches-ii/reference-6548-a-stainless-steel-wristwatch-with Sotheby’s] [https://www.farsettiarte.it/uk/auction-0257/rolex-oyster-perpetual-lady-ref-6548-1964-105457 Farsettiarte] [https://www.cambiaste.com/uk/auction-0841/rolex-precious-oyster-perpetual-watch-ref-6548-in-steel-with-silver-di-286012 Cambi] [https://www.christies.com/lot/lot-rolex-an-unusual-platinum-enamel-and-diamond-set-1352237/ Christie’s] [https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/0b5fdf83/files/uploaded/1.0%20RolexBook-23Mar.pdf Field Manual]
|-
| [[Reference:1002|1002]] / [[Reference:1003|1003]] / [[Reference:1005|1005]] / [[Reference:1007|1007]] / [[Reference:1008|1008]] / [[Reference:1009|1009]] / [[Reference:1018|1018]] || Group: 1959–mid-1980s; 1009 catalogue examples dated 1968, 1969 and 1972 || Cal. 1560 and 1570 across the group; 1009 lots identify Cal. 1570 || The classic 4-digit line, organised by bezel: 1002 smooth, 1003/1007/1008 engine-turned, 1005 fluted; 1009 auction catalogues describe graduated, linen-textured examples, while The Vintage Rolex Field Manual calls the bezel engine-turned. 1018 is the 36mm model in this group
|-
| [[Reference:1013|1013]] || Auction and editorial examples dated circa 1957–1978; production limits unknown || Cal. 1560 and 1570 in individual catalogues; transition unknown || Gold, no-date Oyster Perpetual with a patterned bezel. Published diameters range from 35 to 36 mm; Watch-Wiki groups 1013 under 34 mm without a separate measure. Sources use both fluted and engine-turned. Rago dates serial 1,900,046 to 1969; Pergola’s chart places it in the 1968 band [https://www.everywatch.com/rolex/1013/watch-9177423 Sotheby’s 2020 lot 99 via EveryWatch] [https://www.europeanwatch.com/watch/rolex-1013-oyster-perpetual-18k-yg-15536 dealer listing] [https://www.ragoarts.com/auctions/2022/02/interesting-timepieces/508 Rago lot 508] [https://rolexhaven.com/serial-numbers.html Pergola chart]
|-
| [[Reference:1014|1014]] || Catalogue examples date from circa 1951 through the 1960s; Bellmans dates serial 769199 to 1962. Production limits unknown [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/24231/lot/182/rolex-a-stainless-steel-and-gold-filled-automatic-sweep-seconds-wristwatch-ref-1014-circa-1951/ Bonhams lot 182] [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-32-492 Antiquorum lot 492] [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-151-323 Antiquorum lot 323] [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-1014-lot-373-24 Antiquorum lot 24] [https://app.bellmans.co.uk/en/auction/nov-jewellery-2025-20-november-fine-jewellery-watches/1569-a-rolex-oyster-perpetual-chronometer-gold-capped-ref-1014-with-additional-9ct-gold-bracelet?page=12&listView=1 Bellmans lot 1569] || Cal. 1530 and Cal. 1560 in exact-reference catalogues; changeover unknown [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-32-492 Antiquorum lot 492] [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-151-323 Antiquorum lot 323] [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-1014-lot-373-24 Antiquorum lot 24] || No-date, gold-covered steel Oyster Perpetual; catalogued at 34–35 mm with smooth bezels. Gold-plated, gold-filled and gold-capped are lot-specific descriptions; the Field Manual lists a polished smooth bezel [https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/0b5fdf83/files/uploaded/1.0%20RolexBook-23Mar.pdf The Vintage Rolex Field Manual] [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-32-492 Antiquorum lot 492] [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-151-323 Antiquorum lot 323] [https://app.bellmans.co.uk/en/auction/nov-jewellery-2025-20-november-fine-jewellery-watches/1569-a-rolex-oyster-perpetual-chronometer-gold-capped-ref-1014-with-additional-9ct-gold-bracelet?page=12&listView=1 Bellmans lot 1569]
|-
| [[Reference:1038|1038]] || Auction estimates circa 1965–1970; Dr. Crott says early 1970s. Hodinkee Shop's circa-1986 listing reports an inside caseback stamped 1002; case identity is unresolved || Cal. 1570 in three catalogues; Christie's names a 26-jewel movement without caliber || Oyster Perpetual Zephyr; steel with gold bezel and 14K-gold cases; sector, black baton and printed-index dials documented; 33.7–35 mm catalogue sizes
|-
| [[Reference:1022|1022]] || Auction and dealer examples circa 1961–1964; production limits unknown || Cal. 1560 in five sale/dealer records; Watch-Wiki and Time Connection list 1570, but no reviewed specimen confirms it || 34 mm gold examples with Florentine, textured, satin/polished, or fluted surfaces; two records report 1005 inside the caseback
|-
| [[Reference:1023|1023]] || ART Jewellery & Watches lists 1023/9 and 1023/83 for 1964–1971; catalogues date individual examples circa 1964–1969. Waddington’s serial 902827 is in Pergola’s 1962 band; Heritage's circa-1986 attribution for serial 933953 conflicts with the other date clues. Production limits unknown || Cal. 1560 in Gardiner Houlgate; Cal. 1570 in other listings. Time Connection lists both; sequence unknown || Mid-size, no-date; 14K and 18K gold; fluted, milled, Florentine, textured, bark, and paille bezel terms. Inner caseback/case no. 1005 reported
|-
| [[Reference:1024|1024]] || auction examples circa 1965/66–1985; production limits unknown || Cal. 1560 and 1570 in auction records || Gold-covered steel examples; polished smooth bezel per the Field Manual; catalogue sizes 33–36 mm; caseback stamps include 1024 and 1025
|-
| 1006 || Ineichen dates one catalogue entry to circa 1962; production span unknown || Ineichen names Cal. 1560; the Field Manual lists Cal. 1570 || Ineichen describes a 34 mm steel watch, case 838,983. Its low-resolution photo appears to show an engine-turned bezel; the Field Manual lists a polished smooth bezel. The catalogue image does not show the between-lugs reference stamp
|-
| [[Reference:1010|1010]] || Two joint 1010/1011 auction lots date to 1960 and 1962; three individually listed 1010s date circa 1962, 1967 and 1968. Worldwide Watches lists a separate 14k example dated 1963 || Cal. 1560 in auction records and the Field Manual; Cal. 1570 in an individual circa-1968 auction lot || Antiquorum contrasts the smooth-bezel 1010 with the faceted 1011. Worldwide Watches lists a 14k underline-dial example dated 1963; the 1stDibs Cal. 1560 report has a conflicting 1011 title

|-
| [[Reference:1011|1011]] || Antiquorum dates an Eaton’s example broadly to the 1950s; other catalogue examples are dated circa 1957, 1960, circa 1962 and circa 1965 || Cal. 1530 (17, 25 and 26 jewels), 1560, 1570 and 1520 (26 jewels) appear in individual records; the Field Manual also lists 1570 || Cited cases measure 32–34mm. Descriptions include faceted, fluted, milled and smooth bezels. Loupe This photos show a 1530-stamped movement in a case marked 5590 on the flank and 5590/1011 inside. Its Eaton’s dial may match Antiquorum’s 1996 lot; Antiquorum 2007 and Finarte 2024 also catalogue Eaton’s watches as 5590/1011.
|-
| [[Reference:1500|1500]] / [[Reference:1501|1501]] / [[Reference:1503|1503]] || Group examples circa 1962–1980; 1501 steel lots dated 1962–1977 and an 18K-gold lot circa 1973; 1503 includes a 1974 dealer-listed blue Shantung dial; production limits unknown || Cal. 1560/1570 auction labels; Rolex parts catalogues list date components under Cal. 1565/1575 || Oyster Perpetual Date. The 1500 has a documented smooth bezel; 1501 records include steel and an 18K-gold example with engine-turned bezel descriptions; 1503 catalogues and the Field Manual show gold cases and fluted bezels. Dealer listings add a blue Shantung dial, a plain-bezel outlier, and an outside-1503 / inside-1500 caseback pairing. The Christie’s caseback attributions remain unresolved; the linked pages explain the evidence.
|-
| [[Reference:114300|114300]] || 2015–2020 catalogue period || cal 3132 in Rolex product material || Oyster Perpetual 39 in Oystersteel. Rolex documented dark rhodium, red grape, blue, black and white dials; Phillips later catalogued individual lots with a conflicting 3230 attribution, which does not establish a factory-wide change|}

This index concentrates on early, four-digit and published 39 mm plain-name references. Rolex’s current catalogue uses newer Oyster Perpetual references, including 124300 (41 mm) and 124200 (34 mm); their current specifications belong to Rolex’s product pages rather than to the vintage rows above.

== Where it sits across Rolex ==

The [[Reference:air-king|Air-King]] and [[Reference:explorer|Explorer]] use related Oyster cases and movements. Compare the specific references: shared components do not make watches with different sizes, dial markings or chronometer status interchangeable.

== Related families ==

* [[Reference:air-king|Air-King]] — related time-only Oyster references, with their own dial and movement variants.
* [[Reference:bubbleback|Bubbleback]] — the earlier curved-caseback generation this line's flat-caseback references replaced.
* [[Reference:explorer|Explorer]] — related time-only watches, including the 36mm 1016.

== Shared references ==

* [[Reference:Serial-numbers|Serial numbers by year]] — serial ranges and the limits of dating
* [[Reference:Movements|Movement reference]] — the calibers used across the line
* [[Reference:Bracelets|Bracelet & clasp guide]] — bracelet types, end-links, and clasp date codes

== Sources ==

* [https://www.lot-art.com/auction-lots/Rolex-Oyster-Perpetual-Wristwatch/134-rolex_oyster_wristwatch-12.6.18-waddington Waddington’s, 12 June 2018, lot 134, ref. 1023/8B]
* [https://www.hessfineauctions.com/auction-lot/rare-rolex-1023-mens-14k-gold-orig-brickwork-gold_a8c065ff1b Hess Fine Auctions, 6 December 2025, lot 12570, ref. 1023]
* [https://archive.watch.de/archive_english/rolex-oyster-perpetual-rindengravur-18kt-gelbgold-automatik-armband-leder-34mm-ref-1023-vintage-bj-1969-box-beschreibung-wie-neu-mit-zertifikat-uber-11-900.html Watch.de archive, ref. 1023]
* [https://www.rolexforums.com/showthread.php?t=856109 Rolex Forums, wtp123’s 2022 ref. 1023 listing]
* [https://www.the-saleroom.com/de-de/auction-catalogues/gardiner-houlgate/catalogue-id-srgard10204/pdfexport Gardiner Houlgate, 20 May 2025, lot 73, ref. 1023]
* [https://www.kaplans.se/en/auktioner/3967?p=2 Kaplans Auktioner, 2 October 2021, ref. 1023 serial 2186841]
* [https://www.timeconnectioninc.com/pages/rolex-case-reference-list-1000-thru-1873 Time Connection II, ref. 1023 parts row]
* [https://www.reddit.com/r/rolex/comments/fyexxg/cool_rolex_of_the_day_902_1023_oyster_perpetual/ Reddit, r/rolex, collector identification of a paille bezel]
* [https://artjewellerywatches.com/en/rolex-production-year ART Jewellery & Watches, production-year guide, 1023/9 and 1023/83]
* [https://jewelry.ha.com/itm/timepieces/rolex-men-s-gold-oyster-perpetual-bracelet-wristwatch-circa-1986case-34-mm-14k-yellow-gold-oyster-case-wit/a/668-39217.s Heritage Auctions, 2007 lot 39217, serial 933953, circa-1986 attribution]
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/101269 Phillips, Geneva Watch Auction FOUR, ref. 6556, 18K gold]
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/139759 Phillips, Geneva Watch Auction XI, ref. 6556, steel]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-6556-0-oyster-perpetual-tru-beat-lot-327-215 Antiquorum, ref. 6556/0, 2020]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-6556-tru-beat-lot-345-357 Antiquorum, ref. 6556, yellow gold, 2021]
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5130834 Christie’s, ref. 6556, case 112846]
* [https://www.christies.com/lot/rolex-a-rare-stainless-steel-automatic-wristwatch-6139178/?intObjectID=6139178&lid=1 Christie’s, ref. 6556, case 138'822]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/fine-watches-7/tru-beat-reference-6556-a-stainless-steel Sotheby’s, ref. 6556, case 731422, 2024]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-6556-oyster-perpetual-tru-beat-lot-364-120 Antiquorum, ref. 6556, 2023]
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-1445413 Christie’s, ref. 6556, Tru-Beat/Metropolitan naming, 1997]
* [https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-38/lot-37 Monaco Legend Auctions, ref. 6556 described as Metropolitan]
* [https://www.watchpool24.com/en/30735266/rolex-date-15038-shantung-dial WatchPool24, ref. 1503/8 Shantung dial, 1974 listing]
* [https://www.vintagegoldwatches.com/product/rolex-oyster-perpetual-date-ref-1503-14ct-1969/ Vintage Gold Watches, ref. 1503 plain-bezel listing, 1969]
* [https://www.vintagegoldwatches.com/product/rolex-oyster-perpetual-date-ref-1503-14ct-1979/ Vintage Gold Watches, ref. 1503/1500 caseback comparison, 1979]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-43-374 Antiquorum, ref. 6106, 2003 lot 374]
* [https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/index.php/auction/the-july-online-sale-34/lot-47 Monaco Legend, ref. 6106, 2024 lot 47]
* [https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/index.php/auction/the-july-online-sale-34/lot-91 Monaco Legend, ref. 6106, 2024 lot 91]
* [https://auctions.tennants.co.uk/auction/lot/lot-2191---rolex-a-stainless-steel-automatic-centre-secon/?au=14200&ef=&et=&g=1&ic=False&lot=2510236&pn=2&pp=96&sd=1&so=0&st=&sto=0 Tennants, ref. 6106, 2025 lot 2191]
* [https://auctions.burstowandhewett.co.uk/catalogue/lot/42cd8c41aebfa8aff879eaa499a6cb9f/c87e406e317d82bb64ed7e2ebc5bb166/luxury-watches-fine-jewellery-and-silver-lot-1000/ Burstow & Hewett, ref. 6106, 2023 lot 1000]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-108-63 Antiquorum, ref. 6567, 2006 lot 63]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-6567-lot-272-420 Antiquorum, ref. 6567, 2013 lot 420]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-240-180 Antiquorum, ref. 6567, 2010 lot 180]
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6424370 Christie's, ref. 6567, Geneva lot 33]

* ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' — Colin A. White, Morning Tundra
* [https://ineichen.com/upload/iblock/90b/2i8emvzzugfn6azndct4le5wsmnaukuh.pdf Ineichen, 25 May 2013, Oyster Perpetual ref. 1006, lot 203]
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080515/284 Phillips, ref. 6085 Oyster Perpetual]
* [https://www.craftandtailored.com/products/rolex-big-bubble-back-oyster-perpetual-ref-6084 Craft & Tailored, ref. 6084]
* [https://www.hodinkee.com/shop/vintage-rolex-oyster-perpetual-ref-6564 Hodinkee, ref. 6564]
* [https://www.hodinkee.com/shop/vintage-rolex-oyster-perpetual-ref-6580 Hodinkee, ref. 6580]
* [https://content.rolex.com/dam/media/brochures/oyster-perpetual/m114300-0004.pdf Rolex, Oyster Perpetual 39 product sheet for ref. 114300]
* [https://assets.rolex.com/api/brochure/en-us/oyster-perpetual/m124300-0002.pdf Rolex, Oyster Perpetual 41 product sheet for ref. 124300]

* [https://www.adams.ie/W103-lot-33-ROLEX-REF-1022-OYSTER-PERPETUAL-18K-YELLOW-GOLD-FLORENTINE-FINISH-CASE-A?auction_no=W103&page_no=3&sort_by=lot_no Adams Auctioneers, 2025, ref. 1022, case 768587, Cal. 1560]
* [https://images3.bonhams.com/original?src=Images%2Flive%2F2015-04%2F23%2FS-22886-0-1.pdf Bonhams, 2015, ref. 1022, case 692570, Cal. 1560]
* [https://www.pandolfini.it/it/asta-0036-1/orologio-da-rolex-oyster-perpetual-ref-1022--201405270143200 Pandolfini, 2014, ref. 1022, case 692564, Cal. 1560]
* [https://www.tajan.com/auction-lot/rolex-oyster-perpetual-ref-1022-vers-1964-montre-_FA27968B44 Tajan, 2014, ref. 1022, case 1,060,089]
* [https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/1963-rolex-oyster-perpetual-ref-1022-florentine-finish HODINKEE Shop, 1963 ref. 1022, case 856369, inside stamp 1005]
* [https://www.1stdibs.com/jewelry/watches/wrist-watches/rolex-mens-18k-rolex-oyster-perpetual-1022-automatic-c1963-swiss-vintage-lv800/id-j_9711082/ LV800 via 1stDibs, ref. 1022, case 856242, circa 1963, Cal. 1560]
* [https://www.watch-wiki.net/doku.php?id=Rolex_calibres Watch-Wiki, Cal. 1570 reference list, including 1022]
* [https://www.timeconnectioninc.com/pages/rolex-case-reference-list-1000-thru-1873 Time Connection II, 1022 case-parts row listing Cal. 1560 and 1570]

* [https://live.mortonsubastas.com/en/online-auctions/morton-subastas/reloj-rolex-vintage-oyster-perpetual-en-acero-y-chapa-ref-1024-ca-1965---1966-movimiento-autom-tico-6579392 Morton Subastas, ref. 1024, lot 100, Cal. 1560]
* [https://www.waddingtons.ca/auction/wrist-pocket-watches-dec-12-2024/gallery/lot/5/ Waddington's, ref. 1024, lot 5, Cal. 1560]
* [https://www.dorotheum.com/de/l/5280014/ Dorotheum, ref. 1024, lot 142, Cal. 1570]
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/HK080121/904 Phillips, ref. 1024, lot 904, Cal. 1570]
* [https://jewelry.ha.com/itm/timepieces/wristwatch/rolex-oyster-perpetual-34-mm-ref-1024-circa-1966/a/21193-12012.s Heritage Auctions, ref. 1024, 2026, lot 12012]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-1038-oyster-perpetual-zephyr-lot-316-295 Antiquorum, Hong Kong 2018, ref. 1038, lot 295]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-1038-oyster-perpetual-zephyr-lot-381-224 Antiquorum, Geneva 2025, ref. 1038, lot 224]
* [https://ineichen.com/auctions/timed-123/14/ Ineichen, 25 June 2026, ref. 1038, lot 14]
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-1752923 Christie's, ref. 1038, lot 238]
* [https://auctions.gardinerhoulgate.co.uk/catalogue/lot/03dc801ee229c37db51430f814d19b2e/63b778f7668dabe928d3800924a99077/watches-jewellery-lot-36/ Gardiner Houlgate, 20 September 2023, ref. 1038, lot 36]
* [https://uhren-muser.de/catalogues/en/Crott_101_US.pdf Dr. Crott, 101st Auction, 16 November 2019]
* [https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/1986-rolex-zephyr-in-steel-and-gold Hodinkee Shop, circa-1986 listing identifying ref. 1038]
* [https://www.sandersonandson.com/51828.shtml Sanderson & Son, 2013 listing for a watch dated 1968, ref. 1038]
* [https://angliacarauctions.co.uk/auctions/2699-26-Apr-2025/8069~33-rolex%2C-oyster-perpetual-1024-3020760-gold-plated-automatic-wristwatch Anglia Car Auctions, ref. 1024, 2025, lot 33]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-108-188 Antiquorum, Air-King 5520/1024, 2006, lot 188]

* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-108-22 Antiquorum, 2006, ref. 1010/1011, case 576171, lot 22]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-213-465 Antiquorum, 2009, ref. 1010/1011, case 933961, lot 465]
* [https://jewelry.ha.com/itm/timepieces/wristwatch/rolex-ref-1010-vintage-gold-oyster-perpetual-original-box-and-papers-circa-1962/a/5049-60215.s Heritage Auctions, 2010, ref. 1010, case 646320]
* [https://images3.bonhams.com/original?src=Images%2Flive%2F2015-04%2F23%2FS-22886-0-1.pdf Bonhams, 2015, ref. 1010, case 1659430, lot 315]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-1010-oyster-perpetual-lot-334-19 Antiquorum, 2020, ref. 1010, case 1,960,000, lot 19]
* [https://www.worldwidewatches.es/1963-rolex-oyster-perpetual-bombay-1010-14k/ Worldwide Watches, ref. 1010, 14k, underline dial, 1963]
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/rolex-oyster-perpetual-ref-5016-steel-bombay-vintage-the-collectors-series/ Monochrome, 2016 interview on the “Bombay”/“Bombe” case nickname]
* [https://www.1stdibs.com/jewelry/watches/wrist-watches/rolex-14-karat-yellow-gold-bombe-ref-1011-circa-1960/id-j_6301282/ 1stDibs item description identifies ref. 1010, while title says 1011]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-108-45 Antiquorum, 2006, ref. 1011, case 546423, lot 45]
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-1588392 Christie’s, circa-1957 ref. 1011, lot 379]
* [https://www.christies.com/lot/lot-5496491 Christie’s, circa-1962 ref. 1011, case 692498]
* [https://www.waddingtons.ca/?p=54274 Waddington’s, circa-1965 Eaton’s ¼ Century Club ref. 1011, lot 74]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-111-143 Antiquorum Milan, 1996 Eaton’s ref. 1011, Cal. 1530]
* [https://loupethis.com/auctions/rolex-oyster-perpetual-1011-eaton-quarter-century-club-14k-yg Loupe This lot 2475, photo of Cal. 1530 in case marked 1011]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-51-654 Antiquorum Geneva, 2004, Eaton’s ref. 1011, 17-jewel Cal. 1530]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-34-139 Antiquorum New York, 2003, Eaton’s ref. 1011, Cal. 1520]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-257-412 Antiquorum New York, 2011, Eaton’s ref. 1011, 26-jewel Cal. 1530]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-160-93 Antiquorum New York, 2007, Eaton’s ref. 5590/1011, Cal. 1530]
* [https://www.finarte.it/asta/orologi-milano-2024-12-16/rolex-bombay-5590-1011-personalizzato-per-eaton-137265 Finarte Milan, 2024, Eaton’s ref. 5590-1011, Cal. 1530]
* [https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/0b5fdf83/files/uploaded/1.0%20RolexBook-23Mar.pdf The Vintage Rolex Field Manual, Oyster Perpetual reference table: ref. 1011, Cal. 1570, fluted bezel]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-108-107 Antiquorum, 2006, ref. 1009, lot 107]
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/95640 Phillips, 2016, ref. 1009, lot 7]
* [https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-32/lot-176 Monaco Legend Auctions, 2023, ref. 1009, lot 176]
* [https://cdn2.monacolegendauctions.com/auction_catalogs/52-32_catalog.pdf Monaco Legend Auctions, 2023, sale 32 catalogue]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-1501-oyster-perpetual-date-lot-386-199 Antiquorum Geneva, 2026, ref. 1501 case 2,171,365, sale-history date only]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-1501-oyster-perpetual-date-lot-386-200 Antiquorum Geneva, 2026, ref. 1501 case 761,220, Cal. 1560]
* [https://uhren-muser.de/epaper/catalogues/en/99/ Dr. Crott, 99th auction, 2019, lots 231 and 245, refs. 1501]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-1501-oyster-perpetual-date-lot-352-73 Antiquorum, 2022, ref. 1501 gold attribution, caseback stamp unreadable]
* [https://www.cambiaste.com/it/asta-0795/rolex---date-ref-1501-ricciardi-in-oro-giallo-18k-quadrante-argente-co-272993 Cambi, Milan, 2022, ref. 1501 gold watch with case-number prefix and guarantee]
* [https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/0b5fdf83/files/uploaded/1.0%20RolexBook-23Mar.pdf The Vintage Rolex Field Manual, refs. 1500, 1501 and 1503]
* [https://www.emmywatch.com/wp-content/plugins/watchsearch/inc/documents/rolex--1565--movement_parts.pdf Rolex Cal. 1565 parts catalogue]
* [https://www.clubderelojeria.com/comunicaciones/R/ROLEX/rolex1575/ROLEX%201575.pdf Rolex Cal. 1575 parts catalogue]
* [https://www.watch-wiki.net/doku.php?id=Rolex_calibres Watch-Wiki, Cal. 1565/1575 reference lists, including ref. 1501]

[[Category:Oyster Perpetual]]
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/HK080319/903 Phillips, HK Auction NINE lot 903, exterior ref. 6558 / inner stamp 6556]
[[Category:Family Hub]]

Reference:1014

2026-10-14T00:31:58Z

Klaudiusz: [bot-audit] proposal #56 ref=1014 agents=refutter_review (FlaggedRevs pending review)

{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Oyster Perpetual 1014: documented examples, calibres and dials | Rolexopedia
|description=Catalogue and collector records for the gold-covered steel Rolex Oyster Perpetual 1014, including Cal. 1530 and 1560, dial descriptions and uncertain dates.
}}

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex Oyster Perpetual 1014}}

<small>[[Reference:oyster-perpetual|Oyster Perpetual]] → '''1014'''</small>

<div class="rp-lead">
[[File:Ref 1014 hero.webp|thumb|center|640px|alt=Gold-tone Rolex Oyster Perpetual 1014 with a champagne dial and leather strap|Antiquorum's ref. 1014, case 769921, catalogued circa 1962.]]
</div>

The 1014 is a time-only Oyster Perpetual with central seconds. Auction catalogues describe gold-covered steel cases, smooth bezels and 34–35 mm diameters. They name both Cal. 1530 and Cal. 1560, but the records do not establish a production span or a changeover year.

Catalogue dates range from circa 1951 to the 1960s. Bonhams dates a case numbered 769*** to circa 1951; Bellmans dates serial 769199 to 1962. The serial could fit Bonhams’ masked number, but the catalogues do not confirm that they describe the same watch.

==Core facts==

{| class="wikitable"
! Detail !! Documented record
|-
| Reference || 1014, Oyster Perpetual, no date, central seconds
|-
| Dates || Catalogues date individual examples from circa 1951 through the 1960s; the full production span is unknown
|-
| Movement || Cal. 1530 and Cal. 1560 appear in exact-reference catalogue records; no changeover is established
|-
| Case || Steel with gold covering; catalogues use gold-plated, gold-filled and gold-capped for individual watches
|-
| Diameter || 34 mm, 34.5 mm and 35 mm in catalogue measurements
|-
| Bezel and crystal || Smooth bezel; acrylic crystal reported in two catalogue records
|-
| Dials || Silver, champagne, gold and one sigma-marked example are described or shown
|-
| Bracelet || Sale records show linked gold, third-party mesh and stretch bracelets, plus leather straps; standard fitment is not established
|}

==Where it sits in the line==

HODINKEE places the 1014 in the 1960s Oyster Perpetual range with the 1012, 1013, 1016 and 1018. Its description distinguishes the gold-plated 1014 from the solid-gold 1012 and 1013 and the steel 1016 and 1018. It is a retailer's retrospective lineup, without start or end dates for those references.

==Production outline==

Antiquorum dated its 2002 and 2006 examples to the 1960s. Its 2024 lot is dated circa 1962 and includes a chronometer certificate bearing that year. Bonhams described a 34 mm gold-plated steel 1014 with case number 769*** as circa 1951. Bellmans later listed case serial 769199 and dated it to 1962. Both catalogues give a 34 mm gold-covered steel case and Cal. 1560, and Bellmans’ serial fits the masked Bonhams number. The records do not confirm that these are the same watch, so keep each date with its own catalogue.

Pergola places 769199 in its 1961 band. The photographed Dowling–Hess chart lists 710,776 in 1951 and 840,396 in 1952, but it does not list 769199. It gives no direct date for this case. Bonhams’ circa-1951 estimate applies to the masked number 769***; the catalogue does not show whether it is this case. [[Reference:Serial-numbers#Per-reference_serial_detail|The serial-number guide]] records these details. [https://rolexhaven.com/serial-numbers.html RolexHaven's chart photographs]

The separate Antiquorum 2024 watch has case 769921. Its catalogue date and certificate both read 1962. Taken together, the records place catalogued examples in the 1950s and 1960s without establishing the reference's first or last year.

[[File:Ref 1014 documents.webp|thumb|right|240px|alt=Antiquorum photograph of a Rolex Oyster Perpetual 1014 with its chronometer certificate and guarantee|Antiquorum's case 769921 and documents dated 1962.]]

==Movement notes==

The 2002 Antiquorum catalogue identifies Cal. 1530, with 26 jewels, in its 35 mm example. Antiquorum's 2006 lot names Cal. 1560 with 25 jewels; Bonhams, Antiquorum in 2024, Heritage and the Field Manual also list Cal. 1560 on 1014 records. Both caliber labels remain tied to their cited examples; the records give no serial boundary or changeover year. See [[Reference:Movements#cal-1530|Cal. 1530]] and [[Reference:Movements#cal-1560|Cal. 1560]].

Exact-reference auction descriptions and the Field Manual call the movements self-winding. HODINKEE Shop's 1014 listing names Cal. 1560 but says it is manually wound, a lone conflict with those records. The sources reviewed here give no separate manual-wind branch.

==Dial map==

Antiquorum's 2002 watch has a satin silver dial with geometric minute divisions, round tritium-coated markers and luminous baton hands. Its 2006 example has applied yellow-gold batons, luminous dots and dauphine hands on a satin silver dial. Heritage describes a gold dial with gold baton markers. The 2024 Antiquorum watch is catalogued with a sigma dial; the photograph shows the two sigma marks flanking “T SWISS T” at six.

The catalogue descriptions give individual examples rather than a full factory dial list. Vesper & Co.'s listing calls its dial champagne. Van Rijk's listing is the only source in this group for a glossy black dial it calls “Stella” and Cal. 1130; neither claim has independent support here, so both remain seller attributions.

[[File:Ref 1014 example-antiquorum-2006.webp|thumb|right|240px|alt=Silver-dial Rolex Oyster Perpetual 1014 with gold baton markers on a gold link bracelet|Antiquorum's 2006 example, described with a satin silver dial and Cal. 1560.]]

==Case, bezel, crystal, and crown==

Source descriptions differ on the gold treatment: Antiquorum uses “gold plated” and “gold-filled,” while Bellmans calls its case gold-capped and a 2014 Vintage Rolex Forum seller calls another example “gold shell.” Keep each term with its individual watch; these records do not establish one construction specification for every 1014.

Catalogue measurements run from 34 to 35 mm. Antiquorum describes a three-body case with a screw-down back and crown. The Field Manual lists a polished, smooth bezel. Heritage and Bellmans report acrylic crystals. These are lot- and book-level descriptions; the sources give no 1014-wide factory specification for the bezel or crystal.

<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
File:Ref 1014 case-profile.webp|Case profile and crown on Bellmans' serial 769199; the same lot identifies its mesh bracelet as third-party.
File:Ref 1014 caseback.webp|Steel caseback and gold-covered middle case on Bellmans' serial 769199.
</gallery>

==Bracelets, end links, and clasps==

Antiquorum's 2006 watch was catalogued on a 14K yellow-gold link bracelet; the lot does not establish that it was delivered with the watch. Bellmans says the 9ct mesh bracelet on serial 769199 is third-party, and calls the Rolex pin buckle on its leather strap later. A 2014 forum seller reports a 19 mm strap width on a separate 1014. Vesper & Co. advertises a stretch bracelet on its own listing, but none of these records sets a standard bracelet or end-link specification.

<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
File:Ref 1014 bracelet-full.webp|Third-party 9ct mesh bracelet shown with Bellmans' serial 769199.
File:Ref 1014 bracelet-clasp.webp|Clasp view from Bellmans' serial 769199 lot photographs.
</gallery>

==Auction record==

{| class="wikitable"
! Sale date !! Record !! Catalogue description !! Result
|-
| 16 November 2002 || [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-32-492 Antiquorum Geneva, lot 492] || Circa 1960s; Cal. 1530; 35 mm; gold-plated steel; silver dial || CHF 3,450
|-
| 7 December 2006 || [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-151-323 Antiquorum New York, lot 323] || 1960s; Cal. 1560; 34 mm; gold-filled steel; 14K link bracelet || USD 1,534
|-
| 24 May 2017 || [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/24231/lot/182/rolex-a-stainless-steel-and-gold-filled-automatic-sweep-seconds-wristwatch-ref-1014-circa-1951/ Bonhams London, lot 182] || Circa 1951; Cal. 1560; 34 mm; case 769*** || GBP 1,125
|-
| 26 October 2024 || [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-1014-lot-373-24 Antiquorum Hong Kong, lot 24] || Circa 1962; Cal. 1560; 34.5 mm; case 769921; certificate dated 1962 || HKD 21,250
|-
| 20 November 2025 || [https://app.bellmans.co.uk/en/auction/nov-jewellery-2025-20-november-fine-jewellery-watches/1569-a-rolex-oyster-perpetual-chronometer-gold-capped-ref-1014-with-additional-9ct-gold-bracelet?page=12&listView=1 Bellmans, lot 1569] || Serial 769199; catalogued 1962; Cal. 1560; 34 mm || GBP 1,700
|}

==Gallery==

<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
File:Ref 1014 hero.webp|Antiquorum, case 769921, catalogued circa 1962.
File:Ref 1014 example-antiquorum-2006.webp|Antiquorum, 2006, lot 323.
File:Ref 1014 dial-front.webp|Antiquorum, 2024, lot 24, sigma dial.
File:Ref 1014 documents.webp|Antiquorum, 2024, lot 24, papers.
File:Ref 1014 case-profile.webp|Bellmans, 2025, serial 769199, case profile.
File:Ref 1014 caseback.webp|Bellmans, 2025, serial 769199, caseback.
File:Ref 1014 bracelet-full.webp|Bellmans, 2025, third-party mesh bracelet.
File:Ref 1014 bracelet-clasp.webp|Bellmans, 2025, bracelet clasp.
</gallery>

== Sources ==

* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-32-492 "Rolex Oyster Perpetual ref. 1014, Antiquorum Geneva 2002 lot 492", Antiquorum, 2002-11-16]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-151-323 "Rolex Oyster Perpetual ref. 1014, Antiquorum New York 2006 lot 323", Antiquorum, 2006-12-07]
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/24231/lot/182/rolex-a-stainless-steel-and-gold-filled-automatic-sweep-seconds-wristwatch-ref-1014-circa-1951/ "Rolex Oyster Perpetual ref. 1014, Bonhams London 2017 lot 182", Bonhams, 2017-05-24]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-1014-lot-373-24 "Rolex ref. 1014, case 769921, Antiquorum Hong Kong 2024 lot 24", Antiquorum, 2024-10-26]
* [https://jewelry.ha.com/itm/timepieces/wristwatch/rolex-oyster-perpetual-ref-1014/a/5581-54111.s "Rolex Oyster Perpetual ref. 1014, Heritage Auctions 2026 lot 54111", Heritage Auctions, 2026-04-24]
* [https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/0b5fdf83/files/uploaded/1.0%20RolexBook-23Mar.pdf ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual, Oyster Perpetual reference table — ref. 1014'' — Colin A. White, Morning Tundra, 2020 digital edition]
* [https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/2858-rolex-op-gold-plate-ref-1014?variant=39504957931595 "1962 Rolex Oyster Perpetual ref. 1014", HODINKEE Shop, 2021 listing]
* [https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/vintagerolexforum/fs-1960-classic-rolex-oyster-perpetual-ref-1014-go-t168225.html Maloja54, "Vintage Rolex Forum sale post for a gold-shell ref. 1014", Vintage Rolex Forum, 2014-05-28]
* [https://www.1stdibs.com/jewelry/watches/wrist-watches/mens-rolex-ref-1014-oyster-perpetual-gold-capped-automatic-w-paper-1960s-ra236/id-j_24886722/ "Rolex Oyster Perpetual ref. 1014 gold-capped listing RA236", Vesper & Co. via 1stDibs, Listing date not stated]
* [https://www.vanrijkestatejewellers.com/products/rolex-oyster-perpetual-gold-plated-with-gloss-stella-black-dial-ref-1014-rare "Rolex Oyster Perpetual ref. 1014 black-dial listing", Van Rijk Estate Jewellers, Listing date not stated]
* [https://app.bellmans.co.uk/en/auction/nov-jewellery-2025-20-november-fine-jewellery-watches/1569-a-rolex-oyster-perpetual-chronometer-gold-capped-ref-1014-with-additional-9ct-gold-bracelet?page=12&listView=1 "Rolex Oyster Perpetual ref. 1014, serial 769199, Bellmans 2025 lot 1569", Bellmans, 2025-11-20]
* [https://rolexhaven.com/serial-numbers.html RolexHaven (anonymous specialist), "RolexHaven — Serial Numbers (Pergola + Dowling charts photographed)", rolexhaven.com]

[[Category:Oyster-Perpetual]]

Reference:6098

2026-10-11T12:18:19Z

Klaudiusz: Clarify source attribution for “Super Oyster” terminology

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex 6098 Explorer}}
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Explorer 6098 (1952–1953) — Production & Dial Guide | Rolexopedia
|description=Rolex 6098 Oyster Perpetual from the early 1950s, with the Super Oyster crown, documented 60 m rating, Cal. 1030 or A.296, and honeycomb dial variants.
|keywords=Rolex, 6098, Oyster-Perpetual, specifications, reference guide
|image=Ref 6098 hero.webp
|image_alt=Rolex Explorer 6098 hero
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|published_time=2026-04-17T21:45:20Z
|modified_time=2026-08-04T00:13:26Z
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
}}

<small>[[Reference:explorer|Explorer]] › '''6098'''</small>

<div class="rp-lead">
[[File:Ref 6098 hero.webp|thumb|center|640px|alt=Rolex Explorer 6098|Rolex Explorer 6098]]
</div>

The 6098 is an early-1950s Oyster Perpetual that shares case and movement work with the first Explorer and Submariner references. Its flatter case marks the end of the Bubbleback period. A 1953 letter from Bruno Vailati records the name “Super Oyster” for watches supplied to his Red Sea expedition; Perezcope identifies Vailati’s own watch as ref. 6098.

<span id="core-facts"></span>
==Core facts==
{| class="wikitable rp-facts"
|-
! detail
! value
|-
| reference
| 6098
|-
| family
| Oyster Perpetual (pre-Explorer / pre-Submariner ancestor)
|-
| production
| documented 1952–1953 examples
|-
| case diameter
| 36mm
|-
| case material
| stainless steel; gold examples are documented
|-
| case construction
| two-piece Oyster, flat-ish caseback (end of Bubbleback era)
|-
| bezel
| smooth, polished
|-
| crown
| Super Oyster screw-down
|-
| crystal
| acrylic
|-
| water resistance
| 60 m / 200 ft claim documented in period advertising and expedition material
|-
| movement
| Cal. 1030 (dominant); Cal. A.296 on earlier examples
|-
| dial variants
| honeycomb baton, honeycomb star-marker (“Galaxy”), glossy black gilt, and a small number of 3-6-9 examples
|-
| nicknames
| Super Oyster; pre-Explorer; pre-Submariner; Galaxy (on star-dial variants)
|}

<span id="where-it-sits-in-the-line"></span>
==Where it sits in the line==
The 6098 appeared on the 36 mm Oyster platform shared with the early 6150, 6298, and 6350 references. Early examples are recorded with Cal. A.296; later examples use Cal. 1030. The 6098 remained an Oyster Perpetual reference, so its dials do not consistently carry the Explorer or Submariner name.

The 6204 Submariner and the 6350 Explorer followed in 1953 with different dial, bezel, and certification choices. The 6098 therefore belongs in the shared development story, but calling it a formal prototype for either model goes beyond the surviving records. Documented 6098 examples run through 1953.

[[File:Ref 6098 dial-strap.webp|thumb|right|280px|alt=Rolex 6098 on a strap|Rolex 6098 on a strap]]

<span id="the-super-oyster-name"></span>
==The Super Oyster name==
A September 12, 1953 letter from Bruno Vailati thanks Rolex for ''"sette orologi Rolex Super Oyster"'', translated as “seven Rolex Super Oyster watches,” supplied to his Red Sea expedition. The letter does not identify the watches by reference. Perezcope attributes Vailati’s own watch to ref. 6098, case 912378, and reports an IV.52 stamp inside its caseback.

Monaco Legend’s 2021 catalogue also calls ref. 6029, case 706020, “Super Oyster.” Antiquorum catalogued the same case in 2007 as a 1950 watch with a domed screw-down back. Abell Watchmakers uses “Big Bubble Back” for a separately numbered ref. 6029. These later sale and dealer descriptions show that the label was not limited to the flat-back 6098. They do not establish a separate model line or prove that every 6098 had the same crown.

<span id="the-60m-water-resistance-question"></span>
==The 60m water-resistance question==
The 6098 is associated with a 60 m / 200 ft water-resistance claim. Perezcope reproduces a 1939 Italian Rolex advertisement that gives the automatic Oyster Perpetual the same 200 ft figure. That advertisement covers the wider Oyster Perpetual line, so it should not be read as a production total or a guarantee for every surviving 6098.

Vailati's 1953 letter says the seven watches supplied to the Sesto Continente expedition were worn throughout the trip without water entering the cases. That is evidence about that expedition set, not a laboratory rating for every 6098.

Collectors use “pre-Submariner” for the 6098 because of this timing and the shared crown and case work. The label is a relationship to the later model, not a factory designation.

<span id="cal.-1030-and-the-end-of-the-bubbleback"></span>
==Cal. 1030 and the end of the Bubbleback==
Cal. 1030 is the movement most often documented in surviving 6098s. Rolex introduced it around 1950 as a new automatic architecture with a bidirectional rotor; published technical descriptions also record a 25-jewel count and chronometer adjustment on some versions. Those details vary by movement and should be checked against the watch in hand.

The 6098's near-flat caseback reflects the thinner movement architecture that replaced the domed Bubbleback profile. The change is visible, but a caseback alone does not prove which caliber was originally delivered.

Earlier examples are also documented with Cal. A.296, a shock-protected development of A.295. Both calibers occur in auction and archival records; the page does not establish their exact production split.

[[File:Ref_6098_movement.webp|thumb|right|280px|alt=Rolex caliber 1030 movement|Caliber 1030 movement in 6098]]

<span id="dial-variants"></span>
==Dial variants==
Surviving 6098s show several dial layouts. Honeycomb dials with applied batons are documented in silvered and black finishes, with the coronet at 12 and either “Precision” or chronometer wording above 6. The Chevalley and Vailati examples are useful reference points, but neither establishes the complete production range.

The “Galaxy” or star-marker name is collector shorthand for honeycomb dials with applied star-shaped markers. Le Monde Edmond has counted about eight white examples and three glossy black examples in its published survey. Those counts describe the public record at the time of publication, not the total made.

Gold cases with star-marker dials are documented, including an Antiquorum New York example from 2012. The case, dial, buckle, and movement still need to be checked together when assessing an individual watch.

Glossy black gilt examples carry lacquered black dials with gold-toned text. Le Monde Edmond counts three known examples on the 6098.

3-6-9 Arabic layouts are reported on some 6098-related watches and overlap with early Explorer styling. The surviving documentation is too thin to call them a standard 6098 production variant.

Steel cases with silvered or black honeycomb baton dials are the baseline for the examples documented here. Other layouts should be described from the specific watch or catalog entry rather than treated as a fixed hierarchy.

<span id="hands-crown-and-caseback"></span>
==Hands, crown, and caseback==
Hand sets vary between documented examples. Alpha, pencil, and dauphine hands are reported, while the surviving evidence does not support a single factory hand rule for every dial. A hand set must be assessed with the dial, movement, and case history.

The Super Oyster crown is documented on several 6098 examples. Its size, signing, and tube should be compared with period examples; later service crowns can fit and look different.

The caseback is flat or nearly flat. Some expedition watches received post-delivery engravings. Perezcope documents the engraving on Vailati's watch, and auction material records an engraved caseback on Alfred Gregory's example. Those engravings support provenance only when the watch's other evidence agrees.

<span id="expedition-provenance"></span>
==Expedition provenance==
The 6098 appears in several expedition records, but each watch has to be treated separately.

Sesto Continente, 1952–53: Vailati's letter thanks Rolex for seven “Super Oyster” watches supplied to the Red Sea expedition. Perezcope identifies Vailati's watch as a 6098, case 912378, and records case 926504 for Francesco Baschieri Salvadori's example. The letter documents the supplied group; it does not identify every case number.

1952 Swiss Everest Expedition: Antiquorum's Geneva catalogue identifies Dr. Gabriel Chevalley's watch as a steel ref. 6098. The November 2023 listing gives lot 245, an estimate of EUR 21,100–42,100, and a sale result of CHF 56,250. The catalogue describes the watch and its expedition provenance; it is not evidence for all 6098 dials.

1953 British Everest Expedition: auction and specialist records identify several 6098s supplied to expedition members, including Alfred Gregory's engraved example. Charles Wylie and Charles Evans are also named in the surviving material. The record supports expedition use, but not a complete issue list or a claim that the 6098 was the only reference present.

Gough Island Scientific Survey, 1955–56: Nigel Wace's 6098 “Pre-Explorer Precision” is recorded in the Antiquorum New York April 2008 sale material with expedition documentation.

These records explain the collector labels “pre-Explorer” and “pre-Submariner.” They describe the 6098's position in the chronology, not an official model name.

[[File:Ref 6098 caseback.webp|thumb|right|280px|alt=Caseback of Dr. Gabriel Chevalley's 6098|Caseback of Dr. Gabriel Chevalley's 6098, engraved “Expédition Suisse, Dr Gabriel Chevalley, à l'Everest 1952”]]

<span id="auction-record"></span>
==Auction record==
The table records the cited auction examples. Auction results belong to the individual watch and its provenance; they do not set a price for every 6098.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! venue
! date
! lot
! configuration
! result
|-
| Phillips Geneva Watch Auction XV
| 2022-05
| —
| Circa 1951 steel Galaxy honeycomb (6098 platform)
| CHF 126,000
|-
| Antiquorum Geneva
| 2023-11-04/05
| 245
| Dr. Gabriel Chevalley 1952 Swiss Everest expedition, steel
| CHF 56,250 (estimate EUR 21,100–42,100)
|}

The Phillips and Antiquorum figures belong to the catalogued watches shown above. The Chevalley result includes an expedition history and a service dial, so it should not be used as a clean comparison for an unrestored 6098. No general price band is stated here.

The surviving public record is uneven across auction houses. Catalog entries are useful for variant and provenance research, but a single sale does not establish production frequency.

<span id="authentication-notes"></span>
==Authentication notes==
Start with dial originality. The honeycomb finish can be damaged by refinishing, and Galaxy star markers should be compared with period-correct lume or tritium conversion. Service-dial replacements exist. Baschieri Salvadori's 6098 was fitted with a later tritium service dial at some point after the expedition, which the auction record notes explicitly.

The Super Oyster crown is a period-correct question more than an original-versus-service one. Service crowns from the late 1950s onward fit the 6098 tube but read differently. Period-correct Super Oyster crowns carry specific signing and proportions that match 1952–53 delivery. Catalog photography on the Antiquorum 2018 Hong Kong example is a useful reference.

Caliber match: Cal. 1030 on a 6098 is the norm, and Cal. A.296 on a 6098 is also correct, particularly for earlier examples. A Cal. A.296 6098 should not be treated as incorrect. It should be verified against the case number and production quarter.

Caseback engravings anchor expedition provenance. The post-delivery Rolex engravings on Vailati's and Gregory's casebacks match patterns documented on other 1953 Everest-issue watches. Caseback engraving that does not match the documented pattern requires separate verification, whatever provenance story accompanies it.

Case numbers in the published examples include Vailati 912378 with an IV.52 caseback stamp, Alfred Gregory 726182, the Antiquorum 2012 gold example 947778, and Baschieri Salvadori 926504. These examples do not define a complete 6098 serial range; use the serial-number guide and the caseback evidence together.

<span id="what-the-6098-established"></span>
==What the 6098 established==
Three aspects of the 6098's design recur in later Rolex work.

The Super Oyster crown system: a reinforced screw-down arrangement documented on early 6098 expedition watches. Later Submariner references developed their own crown and sealing details.

The 60 m / 200 ft claim: period advertising and expedition correspondence place that figure in the early Oyster Perpetual story. It should be quoted with its source rather than treated as a measured rating for every surviving case.

Cal. 1030 and the end of the Bubbleback profile: the thinner automatic architecture allowed the near-flat caseback seen on many 6098s. The change marks a transition in case design; it does not date every flat-back Oyster Perpetual to the 6098.

The case platform is related to the early 6150, 6350, and 6204 references. “Pre-Explorer” and “pre-Submariner” are useful chronology labels, while the surviving documents support treating the 6098 as its own production reference.

==Related references==
* [[Reference:6350|Explorer 6350]]: First 'Explorer' Dial (1953–1955)
* [[Reference:1016|Explorer 1016]]: Gilt to Matte (1963–1989)
* [[Reference:14270|Explorer 14270]]: First Sapphire (1989–2001)
* [[Reference:114270|Explorer 114270]]: 2001–2010
* [[Reference:214270|Explorer 214270]]: 2010–2021
* [[Reference:6150|Explorer 6150]]: Early Explorer-Dial Oyster

See also the [[Reference:explorer|Explorer family index]], [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|bracelet & clasp guide]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial numbers by year]].

<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
Ref 6098 hero.webp|6098 hero
Ref 6098 dial-strap.webp|6098 on a strap
Ref 6098 movement.webp|Caliber 1030 movement
Ref 6098 caseback.webp|Chevalley expedition caseback
</gallery>

== Sources ==
* [https://perezcope.com/2023/06/19/pre-submariner-scuba-diving-with-rolex-oyster-watches/ Perezcope, “Pre-Submariner Scuba Diving With Rolex Oyster Watches” (2023)]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-6098-oyster-perpetual-lot-364-245 Antiquorum Geneva, ref. 6098 worn by Gabriel Chevalley, 2023]
* [https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-25/lot-181 Monaco Legend Auctions, ref. 6029 case 706020, 2021]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-177-254 Antiquorum Geneva, ref. 6029 case 706020, 2007]
* [https://www.abellwatchmakers.com/rolexservice.html Abell Watchmakers, ref. 6029 case 685762]
* [https://www.phillips.com/auctions/watches Phillips — galaxy star dials article]
* [https://le-monde-edmond.com/ Le Monde Edmond — star dials]
* ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' — Colin A. White, Morning Tundra
* [https://www.windvintage.com/blog/how-rolex-became-rolex-the-automatic-perpetual-movement-part-2 Wind Vintage — How Rolex Became Rolex: The Automatic Perpetual Movement Part 2] — Charlie Dunne / Wind Vintage, Wind Vintage
* [https://www.everestbands.com/ Everest Bands — src rolexpassionreport everest rolex]

[[Category:Oyster Perpetual]]
[[Category:Explorer]]

Reference:bubbleback

2026-10-11T12:17:53Z

Klaudiusz: Clarify source attribution for “Super Oyster” terminology

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex bubbleback}}
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex bubbleback — Production, Dial Variants, Serial Ranges | Rolexopedia
|description=Every Rolex Bubbleback reference from the 1933 original through the mid-1950s transitional era. Production histories, movement progression, dial variants, and collector context.
|keywords=Rolex Bubbleback, Ovetto, Ovettone, Padellone, Oyster Perpetual, Monoblocco, Submarine Hermetique, 1858, 3131, 3372, 4467, 3666, 6098, 8171, 3525, 3003, 6105, Datejust, Precision, Cal. 520, Cal. 620, Cal. 630, Cal. 1030, vintage Rolex, collector guide
|image=Bubbleback_vintage_poster.webp
|image_alt=Vintage Rolex Bubbleback — the Oyster Perpetual with the domed caseback, produced 1933 through the mid-1950s
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|published_time=2026-04-17T21:11:45Z
|modified_time=2026-07-18T12:59:54Z
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
}}

== Rolex Oyster & Bubbleback ==

<div class="rp-lead">
[[File:Bubbleback_vintage_poster.webp|thumb|center|640px|alt=Vintage Rolex Bubbleback advertisement|Vintage Rolex Bubbleback advertisement]]
</div>

The Bubbleback is Rolex's early Oyster Perpetual family. The automatic rotor was too thick for a flat case, so Rolex domed the caseback over the movement and created the profile collectors now call Bubbleback. Production examples run from 1933 into the mid-1950s; later Cal. 1030 references could use a flatter caseback, so the line gradually moved away from the domed profile. Italian collectors call the standard 32mm case Ovetto and the 36mm cases Ovettone.

== Common entry points ==

<div class="rp-grid">
<div class="rp-card"><div class="rp-card-body"><div class="rp-card-meta">Identifying a first-generation Bubbleback?</div><div class="rp-card-title">[[Reference:1858|1858]]</div><div class="rp-card-text">The first Bubbleback. Cal 520 with the full 360-degree rotor, the Didactic engravings in French on the movement plate, and the four-piece case form.</div></div></div>
<div class="rp-card"><div class="rp-card-body"><div class="rp-card-meta">Cross-checking a two-piece case Bubbleback?</div><div class="rp-card-title">[[Reference:3131|3131]]</div><div class="rp-card-text">First two-piece case Bubbleback. The 1936 case simplification, precious-metal only (9K, 14K, 18K yellow and pink gold), Cal 620 with sub-seconds.</div></div></div>
<div class="rp-card"><div class="rp-card-body"><div class="rp-card-meta">Working from a Luxury Model dial photo?</div><div class="rp-card-title">[[Reference:3372|3372]]</div><div class="rp-card-text">The "Luxury Model" name appears in period advertising; documented examples and manual entries show several bezel and seconds configurations.</div></div></div>
</div>

== Pre-Oyster / Submarine (1922–1926) ==

Before the Oyster was the "Rolex Submarine." Wilsdorf's trademark was registered 31 March 1922, 31 years before the 1953 dive watch. Based on Jean Finger's 1921 Swiss patent for a double-case hermetic design, the inner watch sealed inside an outer protective case with a screw-down bezel. Winding or setting the watch required unscrewing the outer case.

{| class="wikitable" style="width:100%;"
|-
! Reference !! Production !! Movement !! Case !! Key distinction
|-
| [[Reference:3666|3666]] || 1924 and circa-1925 examples; span unknown || manual, 15 jewels in catalogues; caliber unconfirmed || 32–33mm silver hinged-case Hermetique || W&D is a sponsor mark, not proof of case maker; a separate 1940 chronograph was also catalogued as 3666
|}

== Pre-Perpetual Oyster ==

Before the Bubbleback, Rolex produced manual-wind Oysters. Auction catalogues identify several with 10½- or 9¾-ligne Aegler Hunter movements at Prima, Extra Prima or Ultra Prima grades. Ref. [[Reference:1925|1925]] lots also name Prima and Ultra Prima grades, but do not assign a numeric caliber. Glasgow import hallmarks recur on British-market examples; the assay date belongs to the case, not necessarily the watch’s manufacture.

{| class="wikitable" style="width:100%;"
|-
! Reference !! Production !! Movement !! Case !! Key distinction
|-
| [[Reference:1925|1925]] || Christie’s dates examples circa 1925, 1928 and to the 1930s; Antiquorum: 1920s; production span unknown || Prima (9′′′/15j and six-position description) and Ultra Prima (15j); caliber unconfirmed || Cushion, faceted tonneau and octagonal; 28 × 28 to 32 × 31mm; gold, silver, nickel || Lot-specific dials; Vintage & Prestige stock W3770 reproduces a 1930 guarantee recording sale on a Milanese band; 260554 is a British winding-crown patent number, while its role in the Bonhams watch’s catalogue field remains unverified
|-
| [[Reference:2081|2081]] || Auction dates range from the 1920s to 1948; span unproved || 10-ligne/15-jewel Prima and 10½-ligne/17-jewel lots; one 1947 lot names Cal. 700, 10½-ligne/15-jewel Extra-Prima || Cushion, 31–32mm; stainless steel, 9K gold and chrome-plated examples || “Standard Oyster,” “Oyster Imperial” and “Oyster Chronometer” catalogue labels; Antiquorum’s steel-only note conflicts with gold and chrome-plated lots
|-
| [[Reference:1069|1069]] || Antiquorum dates lots to 1920s; Christie's circa 1930; span unproved || Manual; 11-ligne/15j movement reported once; other descriptions differ || Cushion; catalogued 30–32mm, steel and silver-plated examples || Solar Aqua/Anti-Magnetic dial; caseback 21836 has a conflicting 1940s seller date
|-
| [[Reference:1072|1072]] || Auctions date examples to the 1930s, circa 1938, and 1940s; one dealer assigns circa 1927, span unresolved || 10-ligne/18j and 15-jewel Prima descriptions; caliber unconfirmed || Cushion, 31–34mm; stainless-steel and chrome descriptions || Silvered Arabic, gilt-baton, two-tone 24-hour, and one Bucherer-signed dealer dial record
|-
| [[Reference:1073|1073]] || Antiquorum circa 1926; Christie's circa 1930; Bonhams 1930s; dealer 1934; production span unproved || Antiquorum: 10½-ligne Extra Prima, 15j; other auction lots name Prima grades || Cushion, 31–32mm; stainless-steel and chrome descriptions || Enamel Breguet, silvered Arabic, Roman, and one dealer-described California dial
|-
| [[Reference:2136|2136]] || c.1926–1940 || 10½′′′ Hunter, 15j manual || 32–34mm octagonal / cushion || Early manual-wind gold Oyster; Borgel-lineage three-piece construction; same reference reused c.1960 for a Cal. 1400 Precision
|-
| [[Reference:2849|2849]] || Christie’s dates examples circa 1936, 1938 and 1940; Antiquorum dates two cases to 1937; production span unproved || Christie’s describes 18-jewel lever/Hunter movements; Antiquorum attributes 17-jewel Cal. 500 to two 1937 watches, with one lot’s stated caliber dates conflicting || 32–33mm; steel examples and one steel-and-gold catalogue description, disputed against a steel-only note || Broad stepped bezel; period “Oyster De Luxe” wording and later “Lifesaver” nickname
|-
| [[Reference:3003|3003]] · [[Reference:3004|3004]] || 1937 launch || Manual lever movements; two auction lots describe 10-line, 15- and 17-jewel examples || One catalogued 3003 is 27mm steel/pink gold; one 3004 is 30mm steel || First pair listed under Oyster Precision; documented examples differ in case and seconds layout
|-
| [[Reference:1873|1873]] || Most auction dates c.1930–1940; Cambi lists c.1954 || Manual; 15–18j; Extra Prima and Ultra Prima grades || 31–32mm; seven steel entries, one 9K gold; tonneau-form cases catalogued || Eight auction entries; one flat-back title; Cambi describes central seconds
|}

== Other manual-wind Oyster references ==

Manual-wind Oyster references ran alongside the automatic Bubbleback. Auction records describe tonneau or cushion cases and manual movements; the automatic Bubbleback line used rotor movements.

{| class="wikitable" style="width:100%;"
|-
! Reference !! Production !! Movement !! Case !! Key distinction
|-
| [[Reference:1573|1573]] || Auction examples dated circa 1930 through the 1940s; production span unknown || Manual; Antiquorum photo shows 15 jewels; Master of Time assigns Cal. 600 (17 jewels) to one Viceroy example; not confirmed across the reference || Tonneau/tortue; 28–29 × 38–39mm across catalogues; steel, steel/gold-bezel and 9ct gold examples || BEYER-signed black dial and Dobbies attribution documented; Imperial and Viceroy are sale names, not established production variants
|-
| [[Reference:2280|2280]] || Auction examples circa 1935–1943; production span unconfirmed || Manual; 15–17 jewels in catalogues; Watch LIFE News identifies one pictured example as Cal. 710 || Tonneau Oyster, 29–33 mm; steel, including one with a pink-gold bezel || Catalogue titles include Oyster Royal, Royal Observatory, Royalite, Majestic Observatory and Speedking; centre/subsidiary seconds, 12/24-hour and sector dials
|-
| [[Reference:2416|2416]] || Catalogue examples and marks mainly mid-1930s to circa 1940; range unproved || Manual; 15 jewels reported on several lots; one parts table lists 10½ lignes; numbered caliber unconfirmed || Cushion case, 27–28mm in 9ct examples; one 18ct example || Murdock’s Cape Town signature; dealer-described “England Dial” and Speedking inscriptions; Oyster Watch Co. cases with Rolex/Aegler movements reported
|-
| [[Reference:3139|3139]] || c.1940–1942 || 10½′′′ Hunter, manual || 32mm cushion Oyster, 3-piece || Only Rolex with "Army" on the dial; cushion case in the Borgel-derived 1920s family; documented British military and civilian examples
|-
| [[Reference:3359|3359]] || c.1939–1947 || 10½′′′ Hunter, manual || 32mm tonneau Oyster, two-tone SS + pink gold || ''Viceroy''-signed dial; two-tone SS case with pink gold bezel; applied luminous numerals
|-
| [[Reference:3358|3358]] || auction examples dated c.1940 and 1942; range unproved || Cal. 700 directly named on one lot; manual movement on another || Steel three-body Oyster with pink-gold bezel; catalogued diameters 28, 29 and 30mm || Separate ''Viceroy'' and ''Oyster Chronomètre'' dial descriptions; not an automatic Bubbleback
|-
| [[Reference:2765|2765]] || c.1939–1942 catalogue dates; range unproved || 10–10½-ligne manual, 17–18j; caliber unresolved || 31–32mm steel tonneau Oyster; screw-down back and crown || Misclassified as a Bubbleback on collector lists; ten auction appearances represent eight watches
|-
| [[Reference:2784|2784]] || individual catalogue estimates c.1930–1945; range unproved || Manual, 15–17j; FHF 30 is a family-level possibility (Tudor Cal. 59); no original 2784 movement confirms it || Usually 30–31mm barrel Oyster; steel and steel/gold documented || Junior Sport, Lipton, Viceroy, Raleigh, Centregraph and photographed Solar Aqua names
|-
| [[Reference:3009|3009]] || range unproved; Glasgow import mark 1937 and presentation inscription 1947 || Mostly catalogued manual, 17–18j; Cal. 700 family attribution probable; two repeated LSK automatic descriptions unresolved || 30–33mm precious-metal tonneau Oyster || White enamel Scientific dial plus Observatory, 24-hour, California and silvered layouts
|-
| [[Reference:3096|3096]] || Bonhams c.1930; Sotheby’s c.1937; span unproved. Gardiner Houlgate reports 1937 Glasgow import marks on the watch with serial 41066 || Manual winding on Bonhams example; 18-jewel/six-position and jewelled-lever descriptions elsewhere; caliber unconfirmed || 30mm gold cushion case; 9ct/9K in three records; Gardiner Houlgate describes hooded lugs || “Oyster Chronometer” wording; central seconds on one example and subsidiary seconds on three
|-
| [[Reference:4220|4220]] || c.1944–1948 || Cal. 59 manual, 17j || 30mm tonneau Oyster SS || ''Speedking'' line; California dial; a documented 1940s small-Oyster manual-wind configuration
|}

== First Bubbleback (1933–1935) ==

The first production Perpetual. Cal. 520 (Hunter 8¾′′′) with a full 360-degree rotor. Early examples carry the Didactic engravings: step-by-step service instructions in French cut directly into the movement plate.

{| class="wikitable" style="width:100%;"
|-
! Reference !! Production !! Movement !! Case !! Key distinction
|-
| [[Reference:1858|1858]] || 1933–1935 || Cal. 520, 17j || 32mm tonneau, 3/4-piece || First Bubbleback; Didactic movement; 60% Didactic split across 5 confirmed auction lots
|}

== Two-piece case era (1936–1944) ==

Rolex introduced a two-piece Bubbleback case with refs. 3131 and 3132 in 1936. Other references still appear in catalogues as three-body cases, including the 3134. Cal. 620 (subsidiary seconds) and Cal. 630 (sweep seconds) became the dominant automatic calibers, developed by Emile Borer at Aegler.

{| class="wikitable" style="width:100%;"
|-
! Reference !! Production !! Movement !! Case !! Key distinction
|-
| [[Reference:2240|2240]] || 1930s–1940s catalogue dates; range unproved || 9¾-ligne automatic, 19j, centre seconds; caliber unresolved || 32mm steel tonneau; back profile unshown on specialist-catalogued examples || Bubbleback classification probable; a separately attributed watch has a domed back but no published reference engraving
|-
| [[Reference:3131|3131]] || 1936–1948 || Cal. 620, 17j, sub-seconds || 32mm tonneau, 2-piece || First two-piece case Bubbleback; precious-metal only (9K/14K/18K YG & PG)
|-
| [[Reference:3134|3134]] || c.1939–1957 catalogue dates; production span unknown || Automatic; 9½ and 9¾ lignes reported; caliber unresolved; subsidiary and centre seconds documented || 32 mm in most catalogues, with 30, 32.5 and 33 mm outliers; tonneau, three-body descriptions || Steel, a steel/yellow-gold case and two steel/gold listings with alloy unspecified; California-dial originality unconfirmed
|-
| [[Reference:3135|3135]] || 1938–c.1945 catalogue dates || 9¾-ligne automatic family; caliber unresolved; subsidiary and centre seconds documented || 32–33mm steel tonneau; one example catalogued as two-body || Sector, Roman, radium, pink and 24-hour dials documented; manual-wind listing is a probable 3135/3136 catalogue error
|-
| [[Reference:3599|3599]] || 1939–1946 catalogue dates || Early Perpetual family; Cal. 635 documented with subsidiary seconds || 31–34mm catalogued, fitted hood covers || Mainly steel; wide flat bezel; fluted and smooth hoods; centre-seconds auction examples have unresolved caliber and factory status
|-
| [[Reference:3372|3372]] || auction estimates c.1938–c.1959; factory range unconfirmed || Cal. 630 listed by Field Manual and named in one lot; other catalogues give 9¾-ligne / N 1411; centre and subsidiary seconds recorded || tonneau case; 32–33mm in cited lots; case and bezel variants || "Luxury Model" name reported in period advertising; 3372/0 listed with smooth polished bezel; dials need lot-specific originality checks
|}

== Early two-pusher Oyster chronograph (1939–mid-1940s) ==

The 3525 is commonly described as the first two-pusher chronograph in Rolex’s Oyster case; earlier Oyster-cased monopusher chronographs existed. Its one-piece upper case gave rise to the collector term ''Monoblocco''. Some surviving examples have documented wartime orders and deferred payment, including those catalogued for Clive Nutting and Leon Brownlee.

{| class="wikitable" style="width:100%;"
|-
! Reference !! Production !! Movement !! Case !! Key distinction
|-
| [[Reference:3525|3525]] || catalogue examples c.1940–1945; factory span unconfirmed || Cal. 13 / Valjoux 23 family, manual chronograph || ~35mm monobloc Oyster SS/gold || Commonly described as an early two-pusher Oyster chronograph; earlier Oyster monopushers existed. Nutting example offered in 2007 with CHF 130,000–160,000 estimate; result not shown
|}

== First Datejust / Ovettone (1945–1953) ==

The 4467 launched in 1945 to mark Rolex's 40th anniversary. The 4467 article covers the early Datejust, its 36mm case, Jubilee bracelet and documented examples.

{| class="wikitable" style="width:100%;"
|-
! Reference !! Production !! Movement !! Case !! Key distinction
|-
| [[Reference:4467|4467]] || 1945–1949 || Cal. A.295 (= 740/745), 18j || 36mm 18K YG/PG tonneau, 2-piece || Early Datejust; early Jubilee and solid end-link configuration; ''Ovettone''; date wheel evolves all-black → all-red → roulette
|-
| [[Reference:5030|5030]] || circa 1948 || Cal. A.295 / 740 (see reference-specific sources) || 36mm; solid gold examples || Early date-equipped Oyster Perpetual; paired with the 5031 in some collector usage
|-
| [[Reference:5031|5031]] || auction dates range from circa 1948 to the 1960s || Automatic in sale catalogues; caliber unresolved || 34–36mm in catalogues; steel and pink or yellow gold described || Date at 3; movement and case details vary by example
|-
| [[Reference:6031|6031]] || auction dates include circa 1949–1950 and the 1950s || Automatic in catalogues; caliber unresolved || 35–36mm; 18K yellow and pink gold catalogued || Date-equipped Oyster Perpetual; left-hand examples catalogued with crown at 9
|-
| [[Reference:6074|6074]] || Platinum commission dated 1950; gold attributions circa 1950s unresolved || Cal. 630 NA on one gold watch with reworked caseback; 9¾-ligne/17j on platinum lot; no reference-wide assignment || 34–36mm in separate catalogues || Platinum example has smooth bezel; gold examples need attribution checks
| [[Reference:6075|6075]] || Auction dates include 1950–51; one c.1961 estimate conflicts || A.295 and A.296 attributed in separate catalogues || 35–36mm; 18K YG/PG and steel + YG; one 10K YG catalogue description || Gold, pink-gold and two-tone cases; one photographed Datejust dial is graded restored
|-
| [[Reference:6105|6105]] || Early 1950s; catalogue dates vary || A.296 and 745-attributed examples || 36mm; gold and two-tone examples || Early dial-signed Datejust; often credited as first, but factory first use is not settled by the 6075 restored dial
|}

<span id="Triple_calendar_flagship_—_Padellone_(1949–1953)"></span>
== Triple calendar: Padellone (1949–1953) ==

"Padellone" means "big pan" in Italian, an augmentative of ''padella'' ("pan") that follows the same naming logic as Ovetto/Ovettone. Triple calendar (day, month, date) plus moonphase. The Padellone uses a snap caseback rather than the screw-down construction of an Oyster case.

{| class="wikitable" style="width:100%;"
|-
! Reference !! Production !! Movement !! Case !! Key distinction
|-
| [[Reference:8171|8171]] || c.1949–1953 || Cal. A.295 CPL automatic triple calendar moonphase, in-house Aegler || 38mm non-Oyster snap caseback, 18K YG/PG, SS rare || Triple calendar + moonphase; ''Padellone''; published examples include stainless steel and gold cases
|}

== Post-Bubbleback / Super Oyster (1952–1953) ==

Cal. 1030, a bidirectional automatic, allowed Rolex to use a flatter caseback than the Bubbleback profile. A September 1953 letter from Bruno Vailati thanks Rolex for seven “Super Oyster” watches supplied to his Red Sea expedition; the letter does not identify them by reference. Perezcope attributes Vailati’s own watch to ref. 6098. Monaco Legend later used “Super Oyster” for ref. 6029, case 706020. Antiquorum dates that same case to 1950 and describes its domed, screw-down back. Abell Watchmakers calls a separately numbered ref. 6029 “Big Bubble Back.” These are source-specific labels, not evidence of a single model definition. [https://perezcope.com/2023/06/19/pre-submariner-scuba-diving-with-rolex-oyster-watches/ Jose Pereztroika, “Pre-Submariner Scuba Diving With Rolex Oyster Watches” (2023)] [https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-25/lot-181 Monaco Legend Auctions, 2021, lot 181] [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-177-254 Antiquorum, 2007, lot 254] [https://www.abellwatchmakers.com/rolexservice.html Abell Watchmakers, ref. 6029, case 685762]

{| class="wikitable" style="width:100%;"
|-
! Reference !! Production !! Movement !! Case !! Key distinction
|-
| [[Reference:6098|6098]] || 1952–1953 || Cal. 1030 (or A.296), 25j, bi-directional || 36mm Oyster, flat caseback || “Super Oyster” wording in Vailati’s 1953 letter for expedition watches; Perezcope attributes his watch to 6098
|}

== Related references ==

The Bubbleback era connects forward to:
* [[Reference:6098|6098]] (Super Oyster, 60m water resistance in 1952; pre-Explorer and pre-Submariner ancestor)
* [[Reference:6150|6150]] (first Explorer, 1952)
* [[Reference:6204|6204]] (first Submariner, 1953)
* [[Reference:4643|4643]] (square Perpetual; published labels vary. Dorotheum says period Rolex catalogues misprinted it as 4663; the ''Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' lists 4643 and 4663 separately, and the discrepancy remains unresolved.)
* 6305 (first Datejust with Cyclops, 1954)
* 6604 and 6605 (first Datejust with instantaneous date change, Cal. 1065, 1956–57)

== Related families ==

* [[Reference:air-king|Air-King]] — the descendant line. The 1945 4925 / 4365 / 4499 originating Air-Kings sit in the same Bubbleback case architecture and run on the same Aegler hand-wound calibers.
* [[Reference:prince|Prince]] — the parallel 1930s line. The Aegler-supplier relationship that powers the Prince also powers every Bubbleback caliber.
* [[Reference:daytona|Daytona]] — the chronograph ancestor. The pre-Daytona Antimagnetique, Monoblocco, and 4xxx tonneau Oyster chronographs share the same era and case lineage.

== Shared references ==

* [[Reference:Serial-numbers|Serial numbers by year]] — early serial ranges and hallmark dating
* [[Reference:Movements|Movement reference]] — the calibers used across the Bubbleback line
* [[Reference:Bracelets|Bracelet & clasp guide]] — bracelet types, end-links, and clasp date codes

== Sources ==

===Primary and specialist===

* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-3881029 Christie’s, ref. 2416, case 36789]
* [https://www.schulerauktionen.ch/en/items/176-2124-rolex-oyster-1930er-jahre?category=armband-und-taschenuhren Schuler Auktionen, ref. 2416, case 32342]
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/29894/lot/85/rolex-a-9k-gold-manual-wind-wristwatch-oyster-ref-3096-circa-1930/ Bonhams, ref. 3096, case 41164, circa 1930]
* [https://auctions.gardinerhoulgate.co.uk/catalogue/lot/1a42656b28290c8a4b42b67ac9a365ce/63b778f7668dabe928d3800924a99077/watches-clocks-miscellaneous-horology-lot-59/ Gardiner Houlgate, ref. 3096, serial 41066, Glasgow import marks dated 1937]
* [https://www.tooveys.com/lots/323442/a-rolex-oyster-9ct-gold-cushion-shape-cased-gentlemans-wristwatch Toovey’s, ref. 3096, caseback marked 4111/3096]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2020/watches-6 Sotheby’s, Watches 2020, ref. 3096, lot 51, circa 1937]
* [https://everywatch.com/rolex/watch-9190889 EveryWatch transcription of Sotheby’s lot 51]
* [https://www.vintagewatchstraps.com/blogoysterwatchco.php David Boettcher, “Oyster Watch Co.”; FHF 30 and Tudor Cal. 59/59SC]
* [https://www.vintagewatchstraps.com/wilsdorfsotherbrands.php David Boettcher, Rolex 2416 examples in Oyster Watch Co. cases]
* [https://www.vrfm.io/Scans/OYSTER-CROWNS-GUIDE.pdf Scanned Oyster case-and-crown table, ref. 2416 row]
* [https://www.watchnet.co.jp/en/item/view/44 Watchnet Japan, ref. 2416 “England Dial” listing]
* [https://www.sandersonandson.com/51979.shtml Sanderson & Son, ref. 2416 Speedking listing]
* ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' — Colin A. White, Morning Tundra
* [https://www.vintagewatchstraps.com/blogoystercase.php David Boettcher, "The Rolex Oyster Case — Hermetic, Submarine and the Borgel lineage", vintagewatchstraps.com]
* [https://patents.google.com/patent/GB260554A/en British patent GB260554A, “Improvements in keyless watches”]
* [https://patents.google.com/patent/CH114948A/en Swiss patent CH114948A, “Winding watch”]
* [https://www.windvintage.com/blog/2022/9/7/the-oyster-story Owen Lawton, "The Oyster Story (Part 1)", Wind Vintage, 2022]
* [https://www.windvintage.com/blog/how-rolex-became-rolex-the-automatic-perpetual-movement-part-2 Charlie Dunne, "How Rolex Became Rolex: The Automatic Perpetual Movement, Part 2", Wind Vintage, 2023]
* [https://quillandpad.com/2019/04/09/the-golden-age-of-rolex-movements-part-i-sowing-the-seeds-of-greatness/ Tim Mosso, "The Golden Age of Rolex Movements, Part I", Quill & Pad, 2019]
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080220/20 Phillips, "The Geneva Watch Auction XII, lot 20 — ref. 1858, steel, bow-tie dial, c.1935", Phillips, 2020]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-108-229 Antiquorum, "Mondani Collection, lot 229 — ref. 1858 Didactic, Bucherer-signed, 1933", Antiquorum, 2006]
* [https://www.astebolaffi.it/en/lot/261/34/detail Aste Bolaffi, "Torino, lot 34 — Rolex Ovetto ref. 1858 Didactic", Aste Bolaffi, 2020]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-83-146 Antiquorum, "Geneva, lot 146 — ref. 2136, steel cushion Oyster, c.1925", Antiquorum, 1999]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2020/watches-online/rolex-ref-3372-bubbleback-retailed-by-serpico-y Sotheby's, "Watches Online, lot 71 — ref. 3372, salmon dial, retailed by Serpico y Laino, c.1945", Sotheby's, 2020]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-23-436 Antiquorum, New York 2001, lot 436 — ref. 3372, Cal. 630, centre seconds]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-108-79 Antiquorum, Geneva 2006, lot 79 — ref. 3372, steel and 18K gold, three-body case]
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080215/206 Phillips, Geneva 2015, lot 206 — ref. 3372, two-tone case, four-segment dial]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2021/fine-watches-8/reference-3372-oyster-perpetual-bubbleback-a Sotheby's, New York 2021, lot 166 — ref. 3372, steel, silvered dial]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-3372-oyster-perpetual-bubble-back-lot-367-75 Antiquorum, Hong Kong 2024, lot 75 — ref. 3372, steel, circa-1959 estimate]
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080118/222 Phillips, "The Geneva Watch Auction VII, lot 222 — ref. 4467, 18K yellow gold, roulette date, c.1945", Phillips, 2018]
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/30160/lot/116/rolex-a-rare-18k-gold-automatic-calendar-bracelet-watch-pre-datejust-oyster-perpetual-ref-4467-purchased-6th-august-1948/ Bonhams, "Lot 116 — ref. 4467, 18K yellow gold, purchased 6 August 1948, with Bucherer receipt and chronometer certificate", Bonhams]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-4467-datejust-souscription-lot-368-95 Antiquorum, "Hong Kong, lot 95 — ref. 4467, 18K yellow gold, numbered souscription edition", Antiquorum, 2024]
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080119/68 Phillips in association with Bacs & Russo, "The Geneva Watch Auction NINE, 12 May 2019, lot 68 — ref. 8171 ''Padellone'', 18K yellow gold, case 762'159", Phillips, 2019]
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5759044 Christie's, "Important Watches, New York, sale 2753, 17 December 2013, lot 186 — ref. 8171 ''Padellone'', stainless steel with diamond-set numerals, case 902'514", Christie's, 2013]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2020/important-watches-2/rolex-padellone-reference-8171-a-stainless-steel Sotheby's, "Important Watches, Hong Kong, 9 October 2020, lot 2143 — ref. 8171 ''Padellone'', stainless steel, case 686'356", Sotheby's, 2020]
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/24235/lot/115/rolex-a-very-rare-18k-gold-automatic-triple-calendar-wristwatch-with-moon-phase-padellone-ref-8171-circa-1955/ Bonhams, "Fine Watches and Wristwatches, London New Bond Street, 13 December 2017, lot 115 — 18K gold ref. 8171 ''Padellone'', cal. A.295 CPL no. 20696", Bonhams, 2017]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-163-311 Antiquorum, "Ref. 3525 chronograph, Corporal Clive Nutting provenance", Geneva, 2007]
* [https://perezcope.com/2023/06/19/pre-submariner-scuba-diving-with-rolex-oyster-watches/ Jose Pereztroika, "Pre-Submariner Scuba Diving With Rolex Oyster Watches", 2023]
* [https://www.pandolfini.it/ Pandolfini Casa d'Aste, "Catalogue usage — ''Ovetto'' for 32mm Bubblebacks, ''Ovettone'' for 36mm Big Bubblebacks", Pandolfini]

* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-155-397 Antiquorum Geneva, 1990, lot 397 — gold 6074 attribution]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-146-67 Antiquorum Vicenza, 1992, lot 67 — platinum 6074]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-6074-datejust-ovettone-lot-381-223 Antiquorum Geneva, 2025, lot 223 — gold 6074 attribution]

===Editorial and market===
* [https://www.abellwatchmakers.com/rolexservice.html Abell Watchmakers, ref. 6029, case 685762, “Big Bubble Back”]
* [https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-25/lot-181 Monaco Legend Auctions, The Rolex Connoisseur's Collection Part Two, lot 181, ref. 6029, case 706020, 2021]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-177-254 Antiquorum, Geneva, 11 November 2007, lot 254, ref. 6029, case 706020]
* [https://www.vintageandprestige.com/product/rolex-oyster-prima-1925/ Vintage & Prestige, ref. 1925 stock W3770, Milanese bracelet and 1930 guarantee]
* [https://everywatch.com/rolex/2280/watch-9112655 EveryWatch archive of Bonhams 2012 lot 127, ref. 2280 case 79,895]
* [https://www.powerwatch.jp/2022/08/22/royal/ Watch LIFE News / LowBEAT, ref. 2280 and Cal. 710 (Japanese, 2022)]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2026/fine-watches/reference-2280-oyster-royal-a-stainless-steel Sotheby’s New York, ref. 2280, lot 403]
* [https://watchesbysjx.com/2015/05/explained-restoring-a-1950s-rolex-oyster-perpetual-ref-6074.html Henrik Korpela, SJX Watches, 2015 — gold watch, movement and altered caseback]
* [https://www.watchlover.it/2016/09/21/rolex-ovettone-big-bubbleback/ Watchlover, 2016 — illustrated 6074 and smooth bezel]

* [https://robbreport.com/style/watch-collector/lists/rolex-bubbleback-watches-collector-guide-1931-1950s-1235893131/ Robb Report, "A Collector's Guide to Rolex Bubbleback Watches, 1931–1950s", Robb Report]
* [https://watchesbysjx.com/2019/10/rolex-8171-padellone-steel.html SJX, "Rolex Unicorns Part II — Ref. 8171 Triple Calendar ''Padellone'' in Steel", SJX Watches, 2019]
* [https://www.fratellowatches.com/what-makes-the-rolex-padellone-ref-8171-so-special/ Robert-Jan Broer, "What Makes The Rolex Padellone Ref. 8171 So Special?", Fratello Watches, 2024]
* [https://www.hautetime.com/close-up-1-14-million-rolex-reference-8171-padellone/38057/ Adrienne Faurote, "Close Up: $1.14 Million Rolex Reference 8171 ''Padellone''", HauteTime, 2013]
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/rolex-datejust-complete-history/ Monochrome Watches, "The Evergreens: Complete History of the Rolex Datejust", Monochrome]
* [https://le-monde-edmond.com/datejust-a-closer-look-at-a-rolex-icon-2/ Edmond Saran, "Datejust: A Closer Look at a Rolex Icon", Le Monde Edmond]
* [https://www.windvintage.com/rolex-oyster-perpetual-bubbleback-reference-3131 Wind Vintage, "Rolex Oyster Perpetual Bubbleback Reference 3131", Wind Vintage]
* [https://www.windvintage.com/rolex-oyster-perpetual-bubbleback-reference-3372-in-18k Wind Vintage, "Rolex Oyster Perpetual Bubbleback Reference 3372 in 18K", Wind Vintage]
* [https://calibercorner.com/rolex-caliber-620/ Caliber Corner, "Rolex Caliber 620", Caliber Corner]
* [https://www.bobswatches.com/rolex-blog/watch-review/rolex-bubble-back.html Bob's Watches, "Rolex Bubble Back Collector's Guide", Bob's Watches]
* [https://www.everestbands.com/blogs/bezel-barrel/the-rolex-bubbleback-history-facts Everest Bands, "The Rolex Bubbleback: History and Facts", Everest Bands]
* [https://www.rolexforums.com/showthread.php?t=230912 Rolex Forums community, "Bubbleback 3131 Owners Thread", Rolex Forums]
* [https://mastersoftime.com/product/rolex-oyster-viceroy/ Master of Time, Viceroy ref. 1573, dealer-attributed Cal. 600]

* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-24-533 Antiquorum 2001, ref. 6075 steel and gold]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-108-122 Antiquorum 2006, ref. 6075 restored Datejust dial]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-6075-lot-283-107 Antiquorum 2014, ref. 6075 A.295]
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080515/284 Phillips 2015, ref. 6075 A.296]
* [https://www.cambiaste.com/uploads/auctions/807-cambi_orologi_719_2022_05_eb.pdf Cambi Aste 2022, ref. 6075 steel and gold]

[[Category:Reference family]]
[[Category:Bubbleback]]

Reference:Serial-numbers

2026-09-29T12:36:35Z

Klaudiusz: Fix missing row separators in serial-number tables

Reference:2240

2026-09-29T10:28:00Z

Klaudiusz: Deep audit: remove gallery heading and em-dash list slop

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex Oyster Perpetual 2240}}

{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Oyster Perpetual 2240: evidence and open attribution | Rolexopedia
|description=Two 1995 Antiquorum lots identify self-winding 2240 watches. Their casebacks are undocumented; a later domed-back attribution lacks a visible reference number.
|image=Ref 2240 hero.webp
|type=article
}}

<small>[[Reference:bubbleback|Bubbleback]] → '''2240'''</small>

<div class="rp-lead">
[[File:Ref 2240 hero.webp|thumb|center|640px|alt=Mat silver dial with applied gold indexes, Antiquorum Geneva 1995|Mat silver dial with applied gold indexes, Antiquorum Geneva 1995]]
</div>

Antiquorum catalogued two 32 mm steel Oyster Perpetuals as ref. 2240 in 1995. Both have centre seconds and a self-winding, 19-jewel movement. The entries support the reference’s place among early Oyster Perpetual automatics, but they do not show a reference engraving or caseback. The Bubbleback classification remains probable rather than confirmed.

Arthur Johnson & Sons attributed a domed-back Rolex Oyster to ref. 2240 in two March 2026 listings of the same watch. The photographs show the case profile and movement number 31706; they leave the case number and reference engraving out. The dial is signed “Rolex Oyster,” without “Perpetual.” Its case has Bubbleback form, while the reference attribution remains unverified.

== Core facts ==

{| class="wikitable rp-facts"
|-
! detail
! value
|-
| reference
| 2240
|-
| family
| Oyster Perpetual; Bubbleback classification probable, not fully documented
|-
| production
| no documented range; Antiquorum dates individual examples to the 1930s and 1940s
|-
| case diameter
| 32mm
|-
| case shape
| tonneau
|-
| case
| steel tonneau, polished and satin-finished on the two Antiquorum examples; screw-down back and crown
|-
| caseback profile
| not shown on the Antiquorum watches; domed on the Arthur Johnson watch attributed to ref. 2240
|-
| bezel
| smooth, polished
|-
| crystal
| material not stated in the catalogues
|-
| crown
| screw-down
|-
| winding
| self-winding
|-
| seconds
| centre seconds
|-
| movement
| 9¾ lignes, rhodium-plated, 19 jewels, lever escapement, monometallic balance, self-compensating Breguet balance-spring. No caliber number published
|-
| case materials
| stainless steel on all three attributed watches
|-
| dials documented
| two Antiquorum watches wear different mat-silver layouts; the Arthur Johnson attribution has a silvered Roman sector dial; original fitment unproved
|-
| dial designations
| "Oyster Perpetual, Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified"; "Oyster Perpetual Chronomètre"; "Rolex Oyster"
|}

== Where it sits in the line ==

Both Antiquorum entries describe a 9¾-ligne, 19-jewel automatic movement with centre seconds, and list screw-down backs and crowns. The catalogues do not name a caliber or describe the case as two-piece.

The [[Reference:1873|1873]] and [[Reference:2765|2765]] are manual-wind Oysters with flat backs in their cited records. Their tonneau outlines resemble the 2240 examples, but the catalogue descriptions distinguish their movements and casebacks.

== Production outline ==

The auction record consists of two Antiquorum lots in 1995 and two Arthur Johnson listings of one watch in March 2026. Antiquorum dated its Hong Kong example to the 1930s and its Geneva example to the 1940s. The catalogues do not publish case numbers. Arthur Johnson recorded a £800 hammer on 7 March and reoffered the same watch on 14 March, when the hammer was £680; the reason for the reoffer is not stated.

These are catalogue dates for individual watches, not a production range. All three attributed watches are steel. None of the cited lots gives a case number that could test its date against [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial-number guidance]].

== Movement notes ==

Antiquorum describes the 9¾-ligne movement as rhodium-plated, with 19 jewels, lever escapement, monometallic balance, self-compensating Breguet balance-spring and centre seconds. Both entries call it self-winding. The catalogues do not supply a caliber number.

A centre-seconds 600-series Perpetual, such as Cal. 630, is a possible identification, not a confirmed one. Arthur Johnson’s photographs show movement number 31706 but no caliber marking. The watch’s reference engraving is also outside the published views.

== Dial map ==

The three attributed watches have different dials. The auction photographs document each watch as catalogued; they do not establish original delivery configuration.

The Geneva example has a mat-silver dial with applied gold indexes and radium-filled bâton hands. “Oyster Perpetual” appears below the coronet, with “Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified” above six o’clock. The Hong Kong example is also mat silver, with painted Arabic numerals at every hour, an outer minute track with five-minute markers, “Chronomètre” above six, and bâton hands described by Antiquorum as radium-filled.

The Nottingham watch has a silvered dial with a faint sector pattern, applied Roman numerals at even hours and batons at odd hours, a printed outer minute track, gilt leaf hands and centre seconds. Its dial surface is heavily crazed. The signature reads “Rolex Oyster.”

Rolex’s 2021 brochure dates the phrase “Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified” to the late 1950s, when it first appeared on Datejust and Day-Date dials. Antiquorum dates the Geneva watch to the 1940s, so its dial inscription and catalogue date conflict. The available lot images do not resolve whether the dial was replaced or refinished, or whether the watch was misdated.

<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
File:Ref 2240 dial-variant-painted-arabic.webp|alt=Mat-silver Rolex dial with painted Arabic numerals at every hour and outer minute track, Antiquorum Hong Kong lot 29|Hong Kong lot: painted Arabic numerals
File:Ref 2240 dial-variant-roman.webp|alt=Silvered Rolex dial with applied Roman numerals and batons, sector track and gilt leaf hands, Arthur Johnson lot 7287|Arthur Johnson listing: Roman sector dial
</gallery>

== Case, bezel, crystal, and crown ==

Antiquorum describes both watches as 32 mm steel tonneau cases with polished and satin finishes, screwed backs and crowns. Its catalogue calls them waterproof. The listings do not specify the crystal material or internal case construction.

[[File:Ref 2240 caseback.webp|thumb|right|300px|alt=Domed coin-edged screw-down caseback of a Rolex attributed to reference 2240|Domed, coin-edged screw-down back on the Arthur Johnson watch attributed to ref. 2240; no reference engraving was shown]]

The Arthur Johnson photographs show a pronounced domed back in a coin-edged screw ring. The auctioneer reports that its crown does not screw down. The case number and reference engraving are not visible, so these features cannot be assigned securely to ref. 2240.

Christie’s technical catalogue for a ref. 2764 calls it a Bubbleback without describing the back profile. That wording is a useful comparison for auction descriptions; it does not establish the 2240’s case construction or caliber.

== Bracelets, end links, and clasps ==

The cited photographs show all three attributed watches on leather straps. They do not document a factory bracelet or end-link fitment for ref. 2240.

== Auction record ==

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Venue
! Date
! Lot
! Dated by catalogue
! Dial
! Estimate
! Result
|-
| Antiquorum, Geneva (Hôtel des Bergues)
| 1995-04-22
| 304
| 1940s
| Mat silver, applied gold indexes, bâton radium hands
| CHF 2,600–2,800 (USD 2,200–2,400)
| Not published
|-
| Antiquorum, Hong Kong (Hotel Furama Kempinski)
| 1995-06-14
| 29
| 1930s
| Mat silver, painted Arabic numerals, bâton radium hands
| HKD 15,000–18,000 (USD 2,000–2,200)
| Not published
|-
| Arthur Johnson & Sons, Nottingham
| 2026-03-07
| 7353
| Not dated
| Silvered sector, applied Roman numerals, gilt leaf hands
| Not published
| GBP 800 hammer recorded; reoffered one week later
|-
| Arthur Johnson & Sons, Nottingham (The Saturday Auctions)
| 2026-03-14
| 7287
| Not dated
| Silvered sector, applied Roman numerals, gilt leaf hands
| Not published
| GBP 680 hammer
|}

Antiquorum publishes estimates but no realised prices for its two lots. Arthur Johnson’s photographs show the same watch in both March listings: lot 7353 on 7 March and lot 7287 one week later. The reported £800 and £680 hammers belong to successive listings of one object.

The two Antiquorum catalogues identify separate ref. 2240 watches with self-winding, 9¾-ligne, 19-jewel movements and centre seconds. Arthur Johnson’s lot records a domed-back watch attributed to ref. 2240; the published views do not verify that reference.

== Related references ==

* [[Reference:2764|Bubbleback 2764]]: Cal. 620N "Super Precision"
* [[Reference:2940|Bubbleback 2940]]: centre-seconds contemporary
* [[Reference:3131|Bubbleback 3131]]: the 1936 two-piece case transition
* [[Reference:2765|Oyster Chronometer 2765]]: the manual flat-back that shares the list but not the mechanics
* [[Reference:1873|Oyster Royal 1873]]: manual flat-back Oyster

See also the [[Reference:bubbleback|Bubbleback family index]], [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|bracelet & clasp guide]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial numbers by year]].

<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
File:Ref 2240 hero.webp|alt=Rolex Oyster Perpetual with mat-silver dial and applied gold indexes, Antiquorum Geneva lot 304|Geneva lot 304
File:Ref 2240 dial-variant-painted-arabic.webp|alt=Mat-silver Rolex dial with painted Arabic numerals, Antiquorum Hong Kong lot 29|Hong Kong lot 29
File:Ref 2240 dial-variant-roman.webp|alt=Silvered sector-style Rolex dial with applied Roman numerals and batons, Arthur Johnson lot 7287|Arthur Johnson lot 7287
File:Ref 2240 caseback.webp|alt=Domed, coin-edged back on a Rolex attributed to 2240, Arthur Johnson lot 7287|Caseback on the attributed watch
</gallery>

== Sources ==

* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-118-304 "Rolex Oyster Perpetual, Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified, Ref. 2240", Antiquorum, 1995-04-22]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-120-29 "Rolex Oyster Perpetual Chronometre, Ref. 2240", Antiquorum, 1995-06-14]
* [https://www.arthurjohnson.co.uk/catalogue/lot/350817b99cbeedece0cbed6103e2def4/1d509dfe86f02da2d7cbda445ef6ff1f/the-saturday-auctions-7th-march-2026-lot-7353/ "Arthur Johnson & Sons Lot 7353 — Rolex Oyster 'Bubbleback' attributed to ref. 2240", Arthur Johnson & Sons, 2026-03-07]
* [https://www.arthurjohnson.co.uk/catalogue/lot/666399e1d8d806483b36d5f21241ba50/1d509dfe86f02da2d7cbda445ef6ff1f/the-saturday-auctions-14th-march-2026/ "Rolex - an Oyster 'Bubbleback' wristwatch, ref. 2240, stainless steel case, automatic movement", Arthur Johnson & Sons, 2026-03-14]
* [https://newsroom-content.rolex.com/-/media/project/rolex/newsroom/rolex/rolex-newsroom-int/brochures/en/02_rolex_superlative_chronometer_english.pdf Rolex, Superlative Chronometer Certification brochure, 2021]
* [https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-rolex-bubbleback-and-why-it-still-matters "Buying, Selling, & Collecting: The Rolex Bubbleback And Why It Still Matters", Hodinkee]
* [https://robbreport.com/style/watch-collector/lists/rolex-bubbleback-watches-collector-guide-1931-1950s-1235893131/ "A Collector's Guide to Rolex Bubbleback Watches, From 1931 to the 1950s", Robb Report]
* "List of Bubbleback models (user w-v-m)", RolexForums
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5091681 "ROLEX, OYSTER PERPETUAL BUBBLE BACK REF. 2764 CALIFORNIA DIAL, STAINLESS STEEL SELF-WINDING WRISTWATCH WITH SWEEP SECONDS", Christie's]
* [https://www.bobswatches.com/rolex-blog/watch-review/rolex-bubble-back.html "Rolex Bubble Back History: A Comprehensive Collector's Guide", Bob's Watches]

[[Category:Bubbleback]]

Reference:Movements

2026-09-29T10:23:56Z

Klaudiusz: Deep audit: repair movement source-section structure

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex Caliber & Movement Reference}}
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Movements & Calibers — Cross-Family Reference | Rolexopedia
|description=Cross-family caliber catalogue for vintage and discontinued Rolex watches, with selected modern lineages through the 2023 Explorer II and Daytona transitions.
|keywords=Rolex caliber, Rolex movement, cal 4030, cal 4130, cal 727, Valjoux 72, Zenith El Primero, cal 1570, cal 1575, cal 3035, cal 3135, cal 3185, cal 3186, Oysterquartz 5035, Rolex chronograph caliber, vintage Rolex movement
|type=Article
}}

<small>[[Main Page]] › '''Movements'''</small>

Find a caliber by family below, then compare its markings and specifications with the individual watch reference. Several early caliber attributions remain disputed; those entries name the competing descriptions.

== Quick jump ==

<div class="rp-index">
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Prince (shaped)</div><div class="rp-chips">[[#cal-300|300]] [[#cal-300-ts|7½ T.S. 300]] [[#cal-310|310]] [[#cal-360-hw|360 HW]] [[#cal-350-ts|350 T.S.]] [[#cal-1759|1759]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Bubbleback / early automatic</div><div class="rp-chips">[[#cal-520|520]] [[#cal-50|50]] [[#cal-620|620]] [[#cal-630|630]] [[#cal-635|635]] [[#cal-105-hunter|700/710]] [[#cal-600|600]] [[#cal-59|59]] [[#cal-a260|A260]] [[#cal-a296|A296]] [[#cal-a295|A.295]] [[#cal-645|645]] [[#cal-740|740]] [[#cal-745|745]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Calendar / moonphase</div><div class="rp-chips">[[#cal-a295-cpl|A.295 CPL]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Oyster / Oysterdate Precision</div><div class="rp-chips">[[#cal-1210|1210]] [[#cal-1215|1215]] [[#cal-1216|1216]] [[#cal-1220|1220]] [[#cal-1225|1225]] [[#cal-1200|1200]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Vintage sport (1950s–80s)</div><div class="rp-chips">[[#cal-1030|1030]] [[#cal-1035|1035]] [[#cal-1036|1036]] [[#cal-1065|1065]] [[#cal-1066|1066]] [[#cal-1530|1530]] [[#cal-1520|1520]] [[#cal-1535|1535]] [[#cal-1525|1525]] [[#cal-1560|1560]] [[#cal-1565|1565]] [[#cal-1570|1570]] [[#cal-1575|1575]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Modern sport (1988–2023 coverage)</div><div class="rp-chips">[[#cal-3000|3000]] [[#cal-3035|3035]] [[#cal-3075|3075]] [[#cal-3085|3085]] [[#cal-3130|3130]] [[#cal-3132|3132]] [[#cal-3135|3135]] [[#cal-3175|3175]] [[#cal-3185|3185]] [[#cal-3186|3186]] [[#cal-3187|3187]] [[#cal-3230|3230]] [[#cal-3235|3235]] [[#cal-3285|3285]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Milgauss</div><div class="rp-chips">[[#cal-1580|1580]] [[#cal-3131|3131]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Early chronograph</div><div class="rp-chips">[[#cal-13|13]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Daytona chronograph</div><div class="rp-chips">[[#cal-72|72]] [[#cal-72a|72A]] [[#cal-72b|72B]] [[#cal-722|722]] [[#cal-722-1|722-1]] [[#cal-727|727]] [[#cal-4030|4030]] [[#cal-4130|4130]] [[#cal-4131|4131]] [[#cal-4132|4132]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Day-Date</div><div class="rp-chips">[[#cal-1055|1055]] [[#cal-1555|1555]] [[#cal-1556|1556]] [[#cal-1566|1566]] [[#cal-3055|3055]] [[#cal-3155|3155]] [[#cal-3156|3156]] [[#cal-3255|3255]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Oysterquartz</div><div class="rp-chips">[[#cal-5035|5035]] [[#cal-5055|5055]]</div></div>
</div>

== Rolex movements ==

This page covers calibers used by Rolex families in the wiki, including several numbers with no confirmed fitment. Reference pages document individual applications.

A caliber designation identifies a movement type. An individual movement number and the case serial belong to separate numbering systems. Comparing their numerical size does not establish which component was made first. The [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial-number guide]] explains the limits of case dating.

Aegler in Bienne made most of the mechanical movements covered here. The firm supplied Rolex as an independent manufacturer before becoming its subsidiary in 2004.

The caliber entries describe balance materials, hairsprings and shock protection where documented. A technology's introduction at Rolex does not mean that every movement received it in the same year.

<span id="prince-family"></span>
== Early chronograph movement

The early Oyster chronograph references use Valjoux ébauches, with Rolex caliber designations that should be kept distinct from the maker’s base number. Available auction records support a limited Cal. 13 / Valjoux 23-family entry; they do not establish that every early Rolex chronograph used the same execution.

<span id="cal-13"></span>
=== Cal. 13 ===
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Manual chronograph
|-
| base family
| Valjoux 23; auction catalogues variously specify 23 VZ or only Cal. 13
|-
| size / jewels
| 13 lignes and 17 jewels in the Antiquorum Nutting record; Sotheby’s records 17 jewels for case 372822
|-
| fitment documented here
| [[Reference:3525|3525]]; other early reference assignments require their own source check
|}

Antiquorum identifies Cal. 13 and a 13-ligne, 17-jewel movement in the 3525 delivered to Clive Nutting; its Leon Brownlee catalogue also names Cal. 13. Sotheby’s 2020 catalogue for a 3525 gives manual winding and 17 jewels but no caliber number. The recurring Valjoux 23 attribution is supported by specialist references and auction descriptions, but the precise movement marking should be read from the individual watch. Cal. 13 is Rolex’s designation in these records; it is not a claim that Rolex manufactured the Valjoux chronograph base. See the [[Reference:pre-daytona-chronographs|pre-Daytona chronograph guide]].

== Prince (shaped movements) ==

The Prince family uses Aegler shaped movements. Wilsdorf and Aegler patented the layout in 1927 as a "shaped watch movement with a seconds dial." It placed the winding barrel at one end of the rectangular movement and the balance at the other, leaving room for a larger balance wheel and mainspring barrel than rival shaped calibers of the period. The larger balance improved precision, while the larger barrel extended the power reserve.

Aegler remained an independent supplier until Rolex bought the company from the Borer family in April 2004. "Aegler" and "Rebberg" refer to the same firm; Rebberg was the street in Bienne where it stood. Aegler also made movements for Gruen. The architectural sibling of Cal. 300 sold in the United States as the Gruen Techni-Quadron, designated Cal. 877. Gruen-stamped movements sometimes appear in Rolex Prince cases, but Cal. 877 was never a Rolex caliber number.

Prince grades run Prima → Extra Prima → Ultra Prima, with higher jewel counts, more adjustment positions, and stricter chronometer testing. Only Extra Prima and Ultra Prima watches carry "Chronometer" or "Observatory" dial marks. Rolex submitted Prince movements to the National Physical Laboratory at Kew for rate certificates independent of the Swiss Bureaux Officiels Suisse de Contrôle. Its often-cited 1914 Class A Kew certificate belongs to an earlier ladies' wristwatch movement, while Prince testing at Kew-Teddington began in 1928.

<span id="cal-300"></span>
=== Cal. 300 ===
[[File:Cal 300 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 300, Extra Prima grade, rectangular Prince architecture, Bonhams lot photo|alt=Cal. 300, Extra Prima grade, rectangular Prince architecture, Bonhams lot photo]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Manual
|-
| jewels
| 15 (Prima) · 18 (Extra/Ultra Prima)
|-
| frequency
| 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| ~50h
|-
| size
| 7½ × 14½ lignes / 16.9 × 32.7mm
|-
| escapement
| Lateral lever
|-
| shock
| None
|}

Cal. 300 is the original Prince movement, made from 1928 to 1935. Christie's describes all three as the same movement base, with interchangeable parts and the balance bridge identifying the original execution. Prima movements have 15 jewels and six-position adjustment; Extra Prima and Ultra Prima versions have 18 jewels, six-position adjustment, and sometimes a Chronometer marking. David Boettcher identifies the additional jewels as two end-stones on the escape-wheel pivots and a top bearing on the centre wheel. Early movements carry the grade wording on the ratchet wheel, while later examples place it on the main train bridge. The photographed Extra Prima, marked "Observatory 6 Positions," shows the later convention.

Balance metallurgy changed gradually. Examples from 1928 use a bimetallic balance with a plain Breguet spring; by the mid-to-late 1930s, documented movements have both monometallic and bimetallic balances paired with Elinvar-alloy hairsprings. No exact transition year is established. "Patented Superbalance" on later ratchet wheels and bridges refers to Aegler's Swiss patent CH196706, filed in August 1936 and granted in March 1938. A movement carrying the mark postdates the grant. The recessed timing screws are often said to reduce air resistance, but Boettcher reads the patent as a way to maximize the balance's radius of gyration within the available space.

The Cal. 300 examples described here have no identified shock-protection system. Incabloc dates the start of its production to 1933 and the later lyre-spring design to 1938. Those dates alone cannot establish the fittings in a particular Prince.

Several UK auction catalogues treat the three- and four-digit numbers found on movements in refs 1862, 1490, and 1855 as calibers. The documented numbers are 510, 579, 841, 1004, 1130, and 1439, with weaker evidence for 701 and a single record of 1759. They are almost certainly movement serials read from the plate. Continental catalogues identify the same movement class by grade and the T.S. size code instead. Cal. 414 and Cal. 527 have no documented connection to the Rolex Prince. The number 971A is a Prince case reference, not an established caliber designation; Antiquorum catalogued that reference in 1989 with a T.S./300-family movement. Fabsuisse labels the movement in its separate ref. 3937 dealer listing “Cal. 971A,” but the auction records reviewed here do not confirm that designation. Treat it as an unverified dealer attribution unless a readable movement marking supports it.

<span id="cal-300-ts"></span>
=== Cal. 7½′′′ T.S. 300 ===
[[File:Cal 300 TS movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 7½′′′ T.S. 300, marked "Rolex World's Records," "Rolex Chronometer," "18 Rubies, Ultra Prima"|alt=Cal. 7½′′′ T.S. 300, marked "Rolex World's Records," "Rolex Chronometer," "18 Rubies, Ultra Prima"]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Manual
|-
| frequency
| 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| ~50h
|-
| size
| 7½′′′ rectangular
|-
| escapement
| Lateral lever
|-
| balance
| Monometallic
|-
| regulator
| Micrometer
|}

"T.S." is Rolex's size-family code for this 16.9 × 32.7mm architecture, catalogued by Christie's as "cal. T.S. Ref. 300." There is no support for the common expansion "Très Soigné." The six-position Ultra Prima execution ran from 1932 to 1938 with a lateral lever escapement, monometallic balance, micrometer regulator, Breguet overcoil hairspring, and rhodium plating. On the [[Reference:1527|1527 Railway]], Extra Prima movements outnumber Ultra Prima examples, reversing the pattern seen on the 1490. An eight-position Ultra Prima marked "Officially Tested in Eight Ways" is documented on a 1931 bamboo-bracelet example sold by Mondani in 2006.

<span id="cal-310"></span>
=== Cal. 310 ===
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Manual
|-
| jewels
| 18
|-
| size
| 7½′′′ rectangular (19 × 49mm cased)
|-
| escapement
| Lateral lever
|-
| balance
| Superbalance, 6-position
|-
| regulator
| Micrometer
|}

Cal. 310 is the centre-seconds member of the T.S. family, used in the wedge-shaped [[Reference:3361|3361 Aerodynamic]], 3362, and [[Reference:3937|3937]] Prince group. Antiquorum described a 3361 in 2000 as a rhodium-plated 7½-ligne movement with 18 jewels, lateral lever escapement, six-position Superbalance, self-compensating Breguet balance spring, and micrometer regulator, in a 19 × 49mm case. That catalogue does not print the number 310, so the caliber attribution is less secure than the architecture and specifications. Movement production ended in 1938, but Aegler stock remained in Rolex cases through 1952. The difference between a movement number and case number does not independently prove a stockpiling interval.

<span id="cal-360-hw"></span>
=== Cal. 360 HW ===
[[File:Cal 360 HW movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 360 HW, marked "Rolex, 15 Rubies, Swiss Made"|alt=Cal. 360 HW, marked "Rolex, 15 Rubies, Swiss Made"]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Manual
|-
| jewels
| 15–18
|}

The architecture of Cal. 360 is disputed. Christie's describes a 1938 ref. 2835 "Prince Elegant" with a tonneau-shaped 15-jewel movement, and Charles Jarman's ''The Rolex Reference Guide'' (4th edition) calls Cal. 360 a manual, small-seconds, tonneau-shaped movement with a SuperBalance. Watch Doctor’s online chart instead lists a rectangular, 18-jewel movement measuring 18 × 27mm. The page does not identify an underlying Rolex document.

Jarman dates Cal. 360 to 1937. The expansion of the HW designation remains unconfirmed; it should be retained as a designation rather than expanded to Hans Wilsdorf. The differing shape and jewel descriptions need comparison with the movement in the individual watch.

<span id="cal-510"></span>
<span id="cal-579"></span>
<span id="cal-701"></span>
<span id="cal-841"></span>
<span id="cal-1004"></span>
<span id="cal-1130"></span>
<span id="cal-1439"></span>
=== Numbered Prince movements (510, 579, 701, 841, 1004, 1130, 1439) ===

Seven numbers circulate as Prince "calibers": 510, 579, 701, 841, 1004, 1130, and 1439. All are most likely movement serial numbers misread as caliber designations, so they are grouped here.

Photographed Prince plates carry a grade legend, jewel count, "Swiss Made," and a bare number stamped beside the "NN RUBIES" wording, but no caliber designation. Grade legends include Prima, Extra Prima, Ultra Prima, Observatory Quality, Officially Tested in Eight Ways, Timed 6 Positions, and For All Climates. The bare number ranges from four to seven digits. Ultra Prima 18-jewel examples with otherwise matching plates carry 1260, 1439, and 1759 in that position, confirming that the stamp varies within one movement type.

Continental auction catalogues identify these movements by size code and grade, such as "cal. T.S. 300" or "7½′′′ T.S. 300, Observatory Quality." UK lots that print a "Cal." figure also give a separate case or serial number, indicating that the supposed caliber was read from the movement. The specifications also overlap: 1439 and 1759 both describe an 18-jewel Ultra Prima movement adjusted to six positions. A bare mainplate serial has likewise appeared in print as a "1240 calibre movement."

Auction descriptions use these numbers, but the available evidence identifies them as movement serials.

{| class="wikitable" style="font-size:90%;"
! number
! documented on
! catalogue text
! notes
|-
| 510
| Prince Brancard ref. 1855, serial 143**, circa 1930
| "17-jewel Cal.510 manual wind movement tested to 8 positions"
| 8-position adjustment, against the more typical 6
|-
| 579
| stainless steel ref. 1862, circa 1935, case No. 103
| "17-jewel Cal.579 manual wind movement" (Bonhams London)
| single lot; the trailing "T" in some listings is absent from Bonhams' catalogue text
|-
| 701
| one photograph showing "ROLEX PRINCE 701" on a 1930s piece
| none
| no recorded jewel count, adjustment count, or technical description; no auction or catalogue attribution
|-
| 841
| ref. 1862 circa 1930, case No. 10403
| "17-jewel Cal.841 manual wind" (Bonhams London; resold through Tajan in 2019, the same watch catalogued twice)
| a separate listing gives 15 jewels for a "Cal. 841T" on a different 1862; a caliber designation would not change jewel count
|-
| 1004
| ref. 1862, Glasgow import mark for 1936, serial 176**
| "17-jewel Cal.1004 manual wind movement tested to 8 positions" (Bonhams, December 2015)
| white gold bezel, fixed wire lugs, gilt brick-link bracelet
|-
| 1130
| 9K yellow gold ref. 1490, case 30280
| "cal. 1130 manual winding lever movement, 16 jewels"
| lowest jewel count recorded in the group
|-
| 1439
| Prince Chronometre ref. 1490, Glasgow import mark for 1937, serial 307**
| "18-jewel Cal.1439 manual wind movement timed to 6 positions" (Bonhams)
| same 18-jewel, 6-position Ultra Prima specification as Cal. 1759 below
|}

Cal. 1759 is the same phenomenon. It remains separate because the photographed watch preserves matching movement and caseback markings, but the number appears in the serial position on an Ultra Prima plate and is documented in only one regional UK auction.

<span id="cal-1759"></span>
=== Cal. 1759 ===
[[File:Cal 1759 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 1759, "1759, 18 RUBIES, ULTRA PRIMA," with its matching case back|alt=Cal. 1759, "1759, 18 RUBIES, ULTRA PRIMA," with its matching case back]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Manual
|-
| jewels
| 18
|}

This circa 1937 Ultra Prima Chronometer has 18 jewels and six-position adjustment. Gardiner Houlgate catalogued it in a 9ct ref. 1862 with 1937 Glasgow import hallmarks as a "cal. 1759 Ultra Prima Chronometer 18 jewel movement timed 6 positions." The photographed example retains its matching caseback, engraved "1759, 18 Rubies, Ultra Prima" alongside "31 Records Universels" and a retailer stamp. The identification rests on this single regional UK auction lot.

<span id="cal-350-ts"></span>
=== Cal. 350 T.S. ===
[[File:Cal 350 TS movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 350 T.S., Extra Prima grade, 15 rubies, timed to 6 positions, in a ref. 1491 jumping hour|alt=Cal. 350 T.S., Extra Prima grade, 15 rubies, timed to 6 positions, in a ref. 1491 jumping hour]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Manual
|-
| jewels
| 15 or 18 (documented both ways)
|-
| size
| 16.9 × 32.7mm (T.S.)
|-
| escapement
| Lateral lever
|-
| balance
| Monometallic
|}

Cal. 350 is the jump-hour member of the T.S. family, alongside the small-seconds Cal. 300 and centre-seconds Cal. 310. Christie's and Sotheby's catalogue it in the [[Reference:1491|1491 Brancard Jumping Hour]] as an 18-jewel, chronometer-rated movement on the T.S. base. Another 1491 has a 15-jewel Extra Prima movement; Ultra Prima examples have 18 jewels. Jewel count varies with grade. The jump-hour disc works on much the same principle as the later Datejust date disc. Surviving examples carry Glasgow import hallmarks from 1930–31, consistent with the T.S. base's 1928–35 production window.

The 1491 has a deeper case than the 1490 to accommodate its jump-hour mechanism. Case depth is one comparison point; the movement, module and case markings must agree as well.

<span id="bubbleback-family"></span>
== Bubbleback and early automatic ==

Bubbleback and early Oyster Perpetual references use a distinct family of self-winding calibers. They followed the Prince's manual shaped movements and preceded the standardized post-war automatic line. The "bubble" refers to the domed caseback needed to clear the full-rotor automatic mechanism. It was not a bumper system, although many competing automatics still used one.

<span id="cal-520"></span>
=== Cal. 520 ===
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 17 (registry; 19 in some auction descriptions)
|-
| frequency
| 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz)
|-
| escapement
| Straight-line lever
|-
| balance
| Superbalance
|}

Cal. 520 debuted in the original 1933 ref. 1858 with its three-piece Oyster case. Antiquorum describes the 8¾-ligne rhodium-plated movement in a [[Reference:3353|3353]] as automatic, with 19 jewels, 18,000 vph, a straight-line lever escapement, and a Superbalance with Breguet balance spring. Cal. 620 superseded it as the architecture developed through the mid-1930s. No confirmed movement photograph is available; a generic early Bubbleback movement should not be identified as a 520 unless the engraved caliber number is visible.

<span id="cal-50"></span>
=== Cal. 50 (3130 auction attribution) ===

Sotheby's catalogued one stainless-steel [[Reference:3130|ref. 3130]] as a manual-wind Cal. 50 with 17 jewels and subsidiary seconds ([2013 lot 197](https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2013/watches-n09002/lot.197.html)). The lot is the only application of Cal. 50 checked here. Its caliber attribution, jewel count and configuration should remain tied to that catalogue entry until a movement stamp is inspected; this page does not establish a production range or other reference fitment.

<span id="cal-620"></span>
=== Cal. 620 ===
[[File:Cal 620 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 620, EmmyWatch|alt=Cal. 620, EmmyWatch]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 17
|-
| frequency
| 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 35h
|-
| size
| 11½ lignes / 26.4mm × 7.5mm
|-
| escapement
| Straight-line lever
|-
| balance
| Superbalance (monometallic)
|}

Derived from the manual Cal. 600, Cal. 620 became the base for Rolex's early full-rotor automatic family. Antiquorum catalogues individual examples with 17 to 20 jewels, against the table's 17-jewel specification. Earlier 1940s movements have a swan-neck micrometer regulator without shock protection; by the early 1950s, an index regulator and shock absorber appear.

The rotor is a unidirectional "Perpetual" type that turns through 360 degrees without bumpers or buffers. It is engraved "ROLEX PERPETUAL / CHRONOMETER / SWISS MADE / PATENTED / SUPER-BALANCE," while the three-screw, 18mm cover plate reads "VIS TIRETTE / PATENTED / TRIGGER SCREW." Cal. 620 powered early Bubblebacks. Rolex dates the introduction of its Perpetual rotor to 1931, but that historical account does not name the caliber. Cal. 630 and the related 635 and 645 developed from the same architecture.

Reference [[Reference:3134|3134]] has both subsidiary- and centre-seconds examples, but its published catalogues do not name a caliber. Do not assign a 620/635 or 630/645 to a particular watch from its seconds layout alone; confirm the movement marking. See the reference article for the lot-level evidence.

<span id="cal-630"></span>
=== Cal. 630 ===
[[File:Cal 630 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 630, EmmyWatch|alt=Cal. 630, EmmyWatch]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 17
|-
| frequency
| 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz)
|-
| size
| 26.0mm
|-
| escapement
| Straight-line lever
|-
| balance
| Monometallic
|}

Launched in 1937, Cal. 630 was chronometer-certified under the period Swiss testing system, adjusted to seven positions, and fitted with a Breguet hairspring. One secondary source gives 18 jewels rather than the table's 17. The movement developed directly from Cal. 620 and shares its "Vis Tirette *** Patented *** Trigger Screw" cover-plate marking. Its rotor and bridge also carry the same "Rolex Perpetual Chronometer, Swiss Made, Patented, Super-Balance" signature. The caliber number stamped in the small box on the bridge distinguishes the two.

The Field Manual also lists Cal. 630 against the 3372 suffix variants. Antiquorum explicitly names Cal. 630 in a 3372 with centre seconds ([New York lot 436](https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-23-436)). The same manual lists subsidiary seconds for one 3372/3 entry, while Christie's catalogue describes a 3372 with small seconds and a 9¾-ligne, 17-jewel movement but gives no caliber number ([case 474309](https://www.christies.com/lot/rolex-oyster-perpetual-chronometre-bubble-back-ref-5091692/?intObjectID=5091692&lid=1)). Keep those statements tied to their sources; they do not establish a Cal. 630 small-seconds variant.

<span id="cal-635"></span>
=== Cal. 635 ===

Cal. 635 belongs to the early automatic family related to Cal. 620. General movement references describe a subsidiary-seconds layout, 17 jewels and a larger movement than the 9¾-ligne measurements in two 3130 auction entries. Antiquorum catalogued 3130 cases 54932 and 474617 with Cal. 635, 19 jewels, 9¾ lignes and subsidiary seconds ([lot 256](https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-108-256); [lot 169](https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-108-169)). Christie's identified case 443093 as Cal. 635 with 19 jewels but centre seconds ([2007 lot 2858](https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5008631)). The latter catalogue description conflicts with the usual seconds layout. Without a visible caliber stamp, keep the centre-seconds attribution attached to that lot; do not treat it as a confirmed Cal. 635 variant.

<span id="cal-105-hunter"></span>
=== Cal. 10½ Hunter ===
[[File:Cal 700 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 700, the 10½-ligne Hunter, monometallic Superbalance, shown in its Oyster case|alt=Cal. 700, the 10½-ligne Hunter, monometallic Superbalance, shown in its Oyster case]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Manual
|-
| jewels
| 17–18
|-
| frequency
| 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz)
|-
| size
| 10½ lignes
|-
| escapement
| Straight-line lever
|-
| balance
| Superbalance, 6-position
|-
| regulator
| Swan-neck micrometer
|}

This Aegler-supplied 10½-ligne hand-wound family uses the 700/710 architecture. It has a straight-line lever escapement, monometallic Superbalance adjusted to six positions, self-compensating Breguet balance spring, and swan-neck micrometer regulator, with no documented shock protection. The movement powers the original Air-King 4925 and its Air-Lion, Air-Tiger, and Air-Giant siblings, including the sub-seconds 4365, mid-size 4444, and 4647 Hunter Precision. Its architecture links the pre-war Prince and Bubbleback movements with the post-war automatic Cal. 1030. Cal. 700 and 710 are hand-wound movements; Cal. 720 belongs to the automatic branch. White’s *The Vintage Rolex Field Manual* maps [[Reference:5031|ref. 5031]] to Cal. 710 in a reference table, but auction catalogues describe 5031 examples as automatic date watches. Christie’s [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-204100 listing] records movement number 37519 but no caliber; Antiquorum’s [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-120-203 1995], [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-53-191 1999] and [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-222-285 2009] entries do not name a caliber and report differing sizes and jewel counts. Sotheby’s 2020 and 2022 entries say only “automatic.” The available records do not resolve the conflict, so the 5031 is not assigned to Cal. 710, A.295, 740, or 745 here.

White’s reference table also maps [[Reference:6031|ref. 6031]] to Cal. 710, but the auction records describe automatic date watches. [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-17-555 Antiquorum’s 2001 lot] and [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-25-143 2002 lot] list 10½ lignes and 19 jewels without naming a caliber; the latter combines refs. 6031 and 6074. [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/160689 Phillips] records movement G3569, and [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2025/fine-watches-pf2570/oyster-perpetual-reference-6031-montre-bracelet-en?locale=en Sotheby’s] G9307, but neither names a caliber. The assignment remains unresolved.

Auction catalogues describe compatible 10- to 10½-ligne manual movements in [[Reference:2765|2765]], [[Reference:2595|2595]] and [[Reference:3009|3009]], but none of the surfaced records shows a Cal. 700 stamp. All three reference pages therefore treat the assignment as plausible rather than confirmed. The eight catalogue entries for [[Reference:1873|1873]] identify manual movements with 15–18 jewels and Extra Prima or Ultra Prima grades; the entries give no caliber designation.

Two Antiquorum catalogues from 1989 describe ref. [[Reference:3003|3003]] and [[Reference:3004|3004]] movements as 10-line, 15- and 17-jewel examples respectively. Neither entry names a caliber. These lot descriptions do not confirm Cal. 700 or 710 fitment in either reference.

[[Reference:6244|6244]] is the one reference in this group with a confirmed caliber stamp: Bonhams, Antiquorum, Christie's and Phillips all independently name Cal. 710 across watches spanning both of the reference's numeric case-serial bands. One Christie's catalogue instead describes the movement only by size, "Calibre 10¾," without giving the caliber number.

<span id="cal-600"></span>
=== Cal. 600 ===
[[File:Cal 600 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 600, manual, Super Balance — EmmyWatch|alt=Cal. 600, manual, Super Balance — EmmyWatch]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Manual
|-
| jewels
| 17
|-
| frequency
| Not recorded
|-
| power reserve
| Not recorded
|-
| size
| 9¾ lignes (Sotheby’s description)
|-
| escapement
| Not specified in the cited lot
|-
| balance
| Patented Super Balance
|-
| regulator
| Not specified in the cited lot
|-
| shock
| None documented
|}

Cal. 600 sits one size class below the 10½-ligne 700/710/720 family and carries a patented Super Balance. Sotheby's catalogued the movement in the Mercedes Gleitze Oyster in November 2025 as a rhodium-finished Hunter-architecture base upgraded to Cal. 600. The late-1926 27mm case belongs to the watch Gleitze wore during her 21 October 1927 Channel swim attempt and is engraved "Miss M. Gleitze / The Companion 'Oyster.' Vindication Channel Swim. October 21st. 1927."

Sotheby’s describes the Gleitze watch’s movement as a 9¾-ligne Hunter upgraded to Cal. 600, with 17 jewels and a patented Super Balance. The description records an upgrade; it does not date when that work was done.

The case carries Glasgow import marks for 1926/1927. A mid-1970s Rolex service box accompanies the watch, but Sotheby’s presents its association with a particular service as an assumption. Neither the box nor the case hallmark dates the movement upgrade.

The cited Sotheby’s description does not specify the escapement, regulator or shock protection. Those details need examination of the movement.

<span id="cal-59"></span>
=== Cal. 59 ===
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Manual
|-
| jewels
| 15 or 17
|-
| frequency
| Not recorded
|-
| size
| 10½ lignes (Fontainemelon FHF 30 ébauche)
|-
| escapement
| Straight-line lever
|-
| balance
| Monometallic
|-
| regulator
| Not specified in the cited lots
|-
| shock
| None documented
|}

Unlike the Aegler-built 10½-ligne Hunter family above, Cal. 59 is a bought-in movement: David Boettcher's research on Oyster Watch Co. identifies it as a rebadged Fontainemelon FHF 30 ébauche, the same base Rolex carried over to Tudor as its own Cal. 59 after Tudor's 1946 incorporation. Four auction-catalogued [[Reference:3478|3478]] watches, three from Bonhams and one from Antiquorum, name Cal. 59 directly. That is firmer evidence than the Cal. 700/710 assignments below, which remain family-level matches rather than photographed or catalogued stamps.

Jewel count splits 15 and 17 across the four directly-named 3478 watches and does not track cleanly with any other documented variable. [[Reference:2784|2784]] carries the same family attribution, but only at the family level: no auction catalogue names Cal. 59 outright for that reference, and the one movement image tied to a visibly stamped 2784 case has a Tudor-signed bridge that may be a later replacement.

<span id="cal-a260"></span>
=== Cal. A260 ===
[[File:Cal A260 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. A260-era movement, engraved Rolex Self Winder, Jewels, Patented|alt=Cal. A260-era movement, engraved Rolex Self Winder, Jewels, Patented]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 19
|-
| frequency
| 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 36h
|-
| size
| 26.4mm
|-
| escapement
| Straight-line lever
|-
| balance
| Superbalance, blued Breguet spring
|-
| shock
| Present (unnamed brand)
|}

A260 powered the first Submariner references, 6204 and 6205, from 1953 to 1955. "A.260" is Rolex's size-family code for this movement class, comparable to the Prince family's "T.S." code. Its non-butterfly rotor distinguishes it from the butterfly-rotor Cal. 1030. Hodinkee traces A260 to a movement used in earlier Oyster Perpetuals and later Bubblebacks, predating its Submariner fitment. The registry uses 17 jewels; some auction descriptions give 19, so the count should be checked against the individual movement.

<span id="cal-a296"></span>
=== Cal. A296 ===
[[File:Cal A296 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. A296-era rotor component, engraved Rolex Perpetual Chronometer|alt=Cal. A296-era rotor component, engraved Rolex Perpetual Chronometer]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 17 (registry; 18–19 in catalogues, depending on module counting)
|-
| frequency
| 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 36h
|-
| size
| 29.5mm
|-
| escapement
| Straight-line lever
|-
| balance
| Monometallic Superbalance
|-
| regulator
| Index
|-
| shock
| Shock absorber (775-labelled lots only)
|}

Catalogues place A296 in the early 1950s, with the registry using a working window of 1953–1956. It powered the Big Crown 6200, early Explorers 6098, 6150 "Precision," 6298, and 6350, and early Datejusts 6104 and 6105. Phillips also identifies A.296 in one 6075, case 714440; other auction catalogues name A.295 in 6075 cases. That conflict is attached to the reference page rather than treated as a universal movement rule. Its full rotor winds in one direction; it is not a bumper caliber. The 6150 and 6350 use related movements in non-chronometer and chronometer-rated watches. COSC itself was founded later, in 1973. "A.296" is Rolex's size-family code and 775 its commercial number, so listings may use either designation for the same movement. Cal. 1030 replaced it in the mid-1950s with bidirectional winding, a butterfly rotor, and a thinner automatic module. Phillips identifies that reduced thickness as the change that eliminated the domed Bubbleback caseback.

The movement has a straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance, self-compensating Breguet balance spring, and index regulator. Catalogues using the commercial number 775 also specify six-position adjustment and a shock absorber. A.296 is a broader designation than a unique caliber stamp; catalogue usage needs checking against the individual movement.

Christie's describes a 6150 balance as a "patented Super-balance," linking it to Aegler patent CH196706 and the recessed timing screws used on [[#cal-300|Cal. 300]]. Published jewel counts vary because some catalogues separate the going train from the automatic module. Figures of 18 and 19 appear for the base movement, with another two or seven assigned to the rotor module. One 6150 is described as a 19-jewel movement with a two-jewel automatic module. A bare jewel total in a reference table does not reveal which components were counted.

<span id="cal-645"></span>
=== Cal. 645 ===
[[File:Cal 645 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 645 winding bridge, engraved "Rolex Perpetual Chronometer, Super-Balance, Patented" — EmmyWatch|alt=Cal. 645 winding bridge, engraved "Rolex Perpetual Chronometer, Super-Balance, Patented" — EmmyWatch]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 17–20
|-
| frequency
| 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 41h
|-
| size
| 26.4mm
|-
| escapement
| Straight-line lever
|-
| balance
| Superbalance, timed to 6 positions
|-
| regulator
| Index
|-
| shock
| Shock absorber
|}

Cal. 645 belongs to the Cal. 600 family and shares the A.260 size code with Cal. 635. The distinctions are functional: Cal. 630 has sweep seconds without shock protection, Cal. 635 has small seconds with shock protection, and Cal. 645 combines sweep seconds with shock protection. Cal. 645 powered the semi-Bubbleback Oyster Perpetual refs 6084, 6085, and 6284 around 1948–1953. Auction catalogues give 17 to 20 jewels, consistent with both differing counting conventions and market-specific tariff variants found elsewhere in the family.

Catalogue labels for ref. 6085 do not agree. [https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/rolex-oyster-perpetual-reference-6085-with-waffle-dial Hodinkee Shop] and [https://amsterdamvintagewatches.com/shop/rolex-oyster-perpetual-6085/ a second dealer listing] call their examples A260; Christie’s, Phillips, Schmitt-Horan, and Dorotheum identify Cal. 645 in theirs. Since A.260 is a size-family code rather than a unique commercial caliber name, keep each label tied to its listing unless the movement itself can be checked.

The movement uses a straight-line lever escapement, Superbalance adjusted to six positions, shock absorber, self-compensating Breguet balance spring, and index regulator. Some catalogues use "monometallic balance timed to 6 positions" instead of Superbalance. Both terms describe a monometallic balance with recessed timing screws.

Watch Doctor’s chart groups Cal. 635 and 645 under A.260 and assigns both to 1950. That online entry is not an identified factory production record.

Antiquorum catalogued a subsidiary-seconds [[Reference:3599|ref. 3599]] as Cal. 635 with 19 jewels and described the caliber as 9¾ ligne, made from 1940 to 1951. The catalogue’s 1940–1951 span differs from Watch Doctor’s 1950 entry. Christie's also catalogued a visibly centre-seconds 3599 as Cal. 635, which conflicts with the caliber's small-seconds architecture. Without movement photographs, the Christie's caliber entry is best treated as a catalogue error rather than evidence for a centre-seconds Cal. 635.

Jewel counts also vary according to whether a catalogue includes the automatic module. Bonhams describes the related [[#cal-745|Cal. 745]] as "18 jewels plus 7 rotor jewels." Its 20-jewel description of a Cal. 645 in a 6085 should remain attached to that example; it does not establish a universal jewel count.

<span id="cal-740"></span>
=== Cal. 740 ===
[[File:Cal 740 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 740 in a reference 4467 Datejust, case back removed, rotor engraved "Rolex Perpetual Chronometer, Super Balance, Vis Tirette"|alt=Cal. 740 in a reference 4467 Datejust, case back removed, rotor engraved "Rolex Perpetual Chronometer, Super Balance, Vis Tirette"]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 26 in the cited Antiquorum lot
|-
| frequency
| 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| Not recorded
|-
| size
| 10½ lignes in the cited catalogue
|-
| escapement
| Straight-line lever
|-
| balance
| Superbalance, adjusted to 6 positions
|-
| regulator
| Not specified in the cited 740 lot
|-
| shock
| Not named in 740 lot text
|}

Antiquorum catalogues Cal. 740 in a Datejust ref. 4467 with a date display. Its Geneva 2002 lot 486 describes the reference as produced from 1945 to 1949. The catalogue supports the caliber identification in that watch; it does not establish the exact introduction date of every movement fitted during the reference's run.

The 10½-ligne rhodium-plated movement has a straight-line lever escapement, Superbalance adjusted to six positions, and self-compensating Breguet balance spring. Some catalogues substitute "monometallic balance adjusted to 6 positions" for Superbalance, as they do for Cal. 645. No Cal. 740 description names the regulator. Antiquorum describes an index regulator on its A.295-attributed ref. 6075, case 714441 ([2014 lot 107](https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-6075-lot-283-107)); that is a separate catalogue attribution, not evidence that A.295 and Cal. 740 are interchangeable names.

Antiquorum gives 26 jewels for its Cal. 740 example. That count should be kept with the source's description. A different count in a reference table may reflect a counting convention or a different execution; the number alone does not settle which.

Surviving examples can have replacement movements or parts. A reference launch date should not be assigned automatically to the movement now inside a particular case.

The cited Cal. 740 lot does not identify a shock-protection system or regulator. Inspect those components rather than infer them from silence in a catalogue.

<span id="cal-a295"></span>
=== Cal. A.295 in Datejust auction records ===

Antiquorum identifies ref. 6075 case 714441 as A.295, with a 10½-ligne movement, 19 jewels and an index regulator ([2014 lot 107](https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-6075-lot-283-107)). Christie's also calls a circa-1950 ref. 6075 A.295 ([case 699455](https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6042730)). Phillips, however, identifies ref. 6075 case 714440 as A.296 ([2015 lot 284](https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080515/284)). The catalogues do not establish whether this reflects a production change, differing usage or a later movement. Check the actual stamp before assigning a caliber.

Keep this A.295 attribution separate from [[#cal-a295-cpl|A.295 CPL]], the complete calendar and moonphase movement catalogued in ref. 8171.

<span id="cal-745"></span>
=== Cal. 745 ===
[[File:Cal 745 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 745, gilt rotor engraved "Rolex Perpetual Chronometer, Super Balance" — EmmyWatch|alt=Cal. 745, gilt rotor engraved "Rolex Perpetual Chronometer, Super Balance" — EmmyWatch]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 18 + 7 rotor
|-
| frequency
| 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 42h
|-
| size
| 29.5mm
|-
| escapement
| Straight-line lever
|-
| balance
| Superbalance
|-
| regulator
| Index
|-
| shock
| Shock absorber
|}

Cal. 745 is an automatic calendar movement used in early Datejust references. Cal. 740 is also catalogued with a date display, so the calendar alone does not distinguish the two calibers.

Bonhams describes a Cal. 745 in a ref. 6305 as rhodium-plated, with 18 jewels plus seven rotor jewels, a straight-line lever escapement, Superbalance, shock absorber, self-compensating blued-steel Breguet balance spring, and index regulator. Eighteen base-movement jewels plus seven rotor jewels gives 25. That arithmetic does not explain a catalogue count of 26; compare the actual movement before treating the descriptions as equivalent.

Cal. 745 appears in the Datejust "Ovettone" group. Documented examples include a circa 1955 18K yellow-gold ref. 6305, case 97602; a ref. 6105 with 1952 Glasgow import marks and movement H78230; and a circa 1955 ref. 6304 with movement 99698/H46452. Other ref. 6105 examples use A296, placing the reference across the boundary between the A.295 and A.296 groups. The claimed Cal. 745 fitment in ref. 6039 is unverified; no supporting lot description or confirmed Rolex ref. 6039 has been identified.

<span id="precision-family"></span>
<span id="calendar-moonphase"></span>
== Calendar and moonphase ==

<span id="cal-a295-cpl"></span>
=== Cal. A.295 CPL ===

{| class="wikitable"
! Detail !! Value
|-
| Type || Automatic complete calendar with moonphase
|-
| Size || 10½ lignes
|-
| Jewels || 18 in the cited examples
|-
| Seconds || Subsidiary seconds at 6, sharing the moonphase subdial
|-
| Reference || [[Reference:8171|8171 Padellone]]
|}

Auction catalogues call the 8171 movement A.295 CPL, A295 or simply 10½ lignes. Day and month appear in windows; a central pointer reads the outer date scale. Four recessed correctors adjust month (near 2), date (near 4), moonphase (near 8) and weekday (near 10). [https://www.christies.com/lot/lot-5195914 Christie’s, 8171 case 685878]; [https://www.fratellowatches.com/a-few-complicated-rolex-watches-from-the-archives/ Giorgia Mondani, 2020]

The contemporary 6062 uses a different movement. Christie’s catalogues its 6062 case 916321 with caliber 655. Matching calendar displays do not establish interchangeable calibers. [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6185890 Christie’s, 6062 case 916321]

== Oyster and Oysterdate Precision ==

Precision is Rolex's non-chronometer manual line, a 10½-ligne family built alongside the automatic Bubblebacks. The Oysterdate Precision 6694 remained in production through the end of the 1980s, a year beyond the hand-wound Daytona; one surviving lot includes a 1990/1991 Rolex calendar card. Rolex continued making manual-wind watches after the 6694: the Cellini Danaos used Cal. 1602 into 2008, and the chronometer-certified Cellini Prince used Cal. 7040 until about 2015. The small-seconds Cal. 1240 also carried this architecture into the platinum Cellinium 5240 and 5241. Seconds placement, date and beat rate distinguish the seven commercial numbers. Rolex's parts plates identify Cal. 1210 as the base for 1200, 1215, 1220, 1225 and 1240.

<span id="cal-1210"></span>
=== Cal. 1210 ===
[[File:Cal 1210 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 1210 in a 1960 Oysterdate Precision ref. 6466, movement in case|alt=Cal. 1210 in a 1960 Oysterdate Precision ref. 6466, movement in case]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Manual
|-
| jewels
| 18 (factory plate) · 17 (as signed and catalogued)
|-
| frequency
| 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| ~58h
|-
| size
| 10½′′′ / Ø23.80mm × 4.27mm height
|-
| escapement
| Straight-line lever, jewelled pallet fork
|-
| balance
| Glucydur, screwed rim, Breguet overcoil
|-
| regulator
| Index with movable stud support
|-
| shock
| KIF-pattern on documented later examples; earliest examples may lack protection
|}

Rolex's parts plates identify Cal. 1210 as the family's architectural base and file the small-seconds 1200 as a derivative. The parts plates support Horbiter's identification of Cal. 1210 as the base; Fratello names Cal. 1200.

The jewel count remains unclear. Rolex specifies 18 jewels for the two no-date calibers and 17 for the date versions, yet known movements are signed "Seventeen Jewels" and major-house catalogues consistently give 17. Both counts are documented, but their distribution among watches has not been established. Contemporary American import duties taxed jewel count and also account for the "UNADJUSTED" stamps found on some movements.

The balance is Glucydur with a Breguet overcoil, as specified on the sibling Cal. 1200 plate. Regulation uses a conventional index and movable stud, with adjusting washers in five thicknesses. It is not free-sprung; Rolex reserved Microstella for its 12½-ligne chronometers.

The pallet fork runs in jewels, while the escape wheel has shock-mounted settings and cap jewels on both pivots, matching the treatment of the balance. Indirect centre seconds, driven from the fourth wheel through a friction-sprung pinion, can produce seconds-hand flutter even in a healthy movement. The earliest examples may lack shock protection; Antiquorum's 1946 ref. 4560 description names none.

Documented fitments include refs. 3745, 4560, 6420, 6422, 6426/6427, 6466, 6480, 6482, 6494, 9083 and 9659. Bonhams also records a ref. 6694 with a III.60 caseback date on Cal. 1210. Ref. 6082 is disputed: Crott assigns one example to 1210, while Antiquorum and EveryWatch catalogue the reference with Cal. 710.

<span id="cal-1215"></span>
=== Cal. 1215 ===
[[File:Cal 1215 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 1215 in a movement holder, from a 1962 Oyster Date Precision ref. 6694 service|alt=Cal. 1215 in a movement holder, from a 1962 Oyster Date Precision ref. 6694 service]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Manual
|-
| jewels
| 17
|-
| frequency
| 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| ~58h
|-
| size
| 10½′′′ / Ø23.80mm × 5.07mm height
|-
| escapement
| Straight-line lever
|-
| balance
| Glucydur, Breguet overcoil (via base 1210) · flat in one lot
|-
| regulator
| Index with movable stud support
|-
| shock
| KIF-pattern
|-
| date
| Non-quickset, dragging change
|}

Cal. 1215 adds a calendar to the 1210, increasing movement height from 4.27mm to 5.07mm. Its two-page parts sheet covers only the calendar mechanism and defers the rest to Cal. 1210. Date discs came in champagne, silvered, and champagne with red-and-black printing.

The hairspring is disputed. The parts plates imply the 1210's Breguet overcoil because the 1215 sheet specifies no separate balance. Antiquorum describes one ref. 9996 with a flat hairspring and index regulator, but uses Breguet wording elsewhere. No catalogue describes the caliber as free-sprung.

Cal. 1215 uses a gradual date change rather than a direct quickset. The date begins moving before midnight and seats as the mechanism completes its cycle.

Christie's places the ref. 6494 changeover between a circa-1956 example with Cal. 1210 and a circa-1958 example with 1215. Other documented fitments include the Speedking 6430, early 6694 production, and refs. 9996/9919. Refs. 6094 and 6294 used Cal. 740 and 790 respectively, rather than 1215.

<span id="cal-1216"></span>
=== Cal. 1216 ===
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Manual (assumed, by family)
|-
| jewels
| not documented
|-
| status
| Number attested in the parts trade only
|}

Almost nothing is known about Cal. 1216. The common description of it as a 17-jewel Cal. 1215 variant has no traceable support.

Rolex's surviving parts plates cover 1200, 1210, 1215, 1220, 1225 and 1240, but omit 1216. No major-house lot identifies a Rolex Cal. 1216, and Heritage's apparent example is a case reference. Confusion is also possible with Ronda's contemporary 1216 movement.

The parts trade nevertheless records it as a Rolex number. Cas-Ker's genuine-parts catalogue places 1216 between 1215 and 1220 and lists crown-wheel screw 1216.5420, following Rolex's caliber-prefixed numbering convention.

The parts catalogue attests the Cal. 1216 designation. Its jewel count, seconds layout, beat rate and fitments remain unknown. Published specifications derived from the 1215 are unconfirmed.

<span id="cal-1220"></span>
=== Cal. 1220 ===
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Manual
|-
| jewels
| 18 (factory plate) · 17 (as signed)
|-
| frequency
| 21,600 vph (3 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| ~58h
|-
| size
| 10½′′′ / Ø23.80mm × 4.27mm height
|-
| escapement
| Straight-line lever
|-
| balance
| Screwless, inertia blocks, flat hairspring
|-
| regulator
| Index with movable stud support
|-
| shock
| KIF-pattern
|}

Cal. 1220 raises the 1210 platform to 21,600 vph and uses a different oscillator. Both its parts plate and the 1978 third edition of Rolex's ''Technical and Service Information'' give that rate. The sometimes-published 19,800 vph figure is unsupported.

The higher-beat generation replaces the 1210's screwed Glucydur balance and Breguet overcoil with a smooth-rimmed balance and flat hairspring. Gilt and nickel-plated inertia blocks provide about ten seconds per day of fine adjustment across their range; the index handles larger corrections. Separate regulator, stud-support and regulating-stud parts confirm that this is an index-regulated movement, not a free-sprung one.

Cal. 1220 appears mainly in the oversize ref. 8029, but its dates conflict. Phillips gives 1950, Antiquorum dates case 714105 to about 1951, and Sotheby's dates that same case to about 1961 without naming its caliber. The earlier dates sit awkwardly beside the later-1960s siblings and remain unresolved. Claims that 1220 movements were commonly signed 1225, including those in later ref. 6426 production, are unverified.

<span id="cal-1225"></span>
=== Cal. 1225 ===
[[File:Cal 1225 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 1225 in a ref. 6694 Oysterdate Precision, bridges marked "Montres Rolex S.A. Swiss"|alt=Cal. 1225 in a ref. 6694 Oysterdate Precision, bridges marked "Montres Rolex S.A. Swiss"]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Manual
|-
| jewels
| 17
|-
| frequency
| 21,600 vph (3 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| ~58h
|-
| size
| 10½′′′ / Ø23.80mm × 5.07mm height
|-
| escapement
| Straight-line lever
|-
| balance
| Screwless, inertia blocks, flat hairspring
|-
| regulator
| Index with movable stud support
|-
| shock
| KIF
|-
| date
| Non-quickset, dragging change
|}

Cal. 1225 adds a calendar to the 1220 and carried the Oysterdate Precision 6694 through its final years. Rolex's plate specifies a timed flat hairspring with gilt and nickel-plated inertia blocks, consistent with Antiquorum's descriptions of refs. 6426 and 6694. Published claims of a Breguet overcoil conflict with the factory plate and auction record. Bonhams' reference to a "Gyromax balance" is a cataloguing error; Gyromax is Patek Philippe's free-sprung system.

Rolex used "Precision" on uncertified manual and automatic movements, including the Air-King 5500. On Cal. 1225, the "UNADJUSTED" stamp records an import-duty classification.

The caliber does not hack. The 1210 parts plate contains no stop lever or hack spring, and Rolex's 1978 service book covers hacking only for the late 1500 series and the 2030/2035.

For an Oysterdate Precision with Cal. 1225, service requirements depend on the condition of the individual watch. Rolex’s published procedure begins with a watchmaker’s examination and an estimate. It does not promise routine acceptance of every vintage caliber or a particular rate and power reserve after service.

Documented fitments include refs. 6426, 6466 and, most often, 6694 from the late 1960s through at least 1979. Comparison of a 1966 ref. 6694 with Cal. 1215 and a 1973 example with 1225 places the changeover around 1967.

<span id="cal-1200"></span>
=== Cal. 1200 ===
[[File:Cal 1200 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 1200, bridges marked "Montres Rolex S.A. Geneva Swiss, Seventeen 17 Jewels", from a Rolex Precision service|alt=Cal. 1200, bridges marked "Montres Rolex S.A. Geneva Swiss, Seventeen 17 Jewels", from a Rolex Precision service]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Manual
|-
| jewels
| 17
|-
| frequency
| 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| ~58h
|-
| size
| 10½′′′ / Ø23.80mm × 3.65mm height
|-
| escapement
| Straight-line lever, jewelled pallet fork and staff
|-
| balance
| Glucydur, Breguet overcoil
|-
| regulator
| Index with movable stud support
|-
| shock
| "Rolex Shockresisting" device
|}

Cal. 1200 is the family's small-seconds variant and, at 3.65mm, its thinnest member. Moving the seconds from the centre to a subdial requires a separate main plate and train-wheel bridge rather than an added module. The plate, bridge, third and fourth wheels, pallet fork and staff are jewelled.

The bilingual parts plate specifies Rolex's own "Shockresisting" device rather than a trade name. It lists a pivoted Glucydur balance with roller and a regulated Glucydur balance with Breguet hairspring, the 18,000-vph oscillator inherited by the 1210 and 1215.

The caliber number is engraved in the balance-wheel hub sinking rather than on a bridge or the main plate. The same document directs watchmakers to Cal. 1210 for all shared parts, confirming the family's parentage.

No major-house lot names Cal. 1200, so its fitments remain unestablished. The high-beat small-seconds Cal. 1240 is better documented in the platinum Cellinium 5240 and 5241, with a monometallic balance adjusted to four positions and a flat hairspring. That caliber kept the architecture in production for about a decade after the Oysterdate ended.

<span id="sport-vintage"></span>
== Vintage sport calibers (Submariner, GMT-Master, Explorer, Air-King) ==

The A-series and Cal. 1030 preceded the long-running 15xx family. Cal. 1520 became its main uncertified movement, while Cals. 1560 and 1570 supplied chronometer-rated sport references into the 1980s.

<span id="cal-1030"></span>
=== Cal. 1030 ===
[[File:Cal 1030 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 1030, engraved "1030," 25 jewels, butterfly rotor|alt=Cal. 1030, engraved "1030," 25 jewels, butterfly rotor]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 25
|-
| frequency
| 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 42h
|-
| size
| 28.5mm × 5.85mm
|-
| escapement
| Straight-line lever
|-
| balance
| Monometallic, blued Breguet spring
|-
| shock
| KIF
|}

Cal. 1030 is a bidirectionally wound automatic used in 1950s Oyster references. Its 5.85mm profile ended the domed Bubbleback caseback, while the cutaway "butterfly" rotor stamped ROLEX PERPETUAL PATENTED is the usual visual identifier. Finishing includes perlage on the rhodium-plated main plate, brushed bridges, polished screw heads and red anodized-aluminium reversing wheels. A conventional index regulates the movement; the visible regulator arm distinguishes it from the later free-sprung 1560 and 1570. Documented fitments include ref. 6098 from 1952, Submariners 6536, 6536-1 and 6538, Explorer 6610 and Air-King 6552. The same movement appeared in chronometer and non-chronometer watches.

<span id="cal-1035"></span>
=== Cal. 1035 ===
[[File:Cal 1035 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 1035, rotor engraved "Rolex Perpetual Patented" — EmmyWatch|alt=Cal. 1035, rotor engraved "Rolex Perpetual Patented" — EmmyWatch]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 25
|-
| frequency
| 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 42h
|-
| size
| 28.5mm × 6.66mm
|-
| escapement
| Straight-line lever
|-
| balance
| Monometallic, temp + 5 positions
|-
| regulator
| Index (Cal. 1030 base)
|-
| shock
| Shock absorber
|}

Cal. 1035 adds a date to the 1030 and appeared in 1957. It powered Oyster Perpetual Date refs. 6518, 6530 and 6534, plus the Datejust Thunderbird 6609. Rolex describes its non-quickset calendar as "progressive": the date moves gradually through the night, unlike the instant-change 1036 GMT.

The 1035 inherits the 1030's conventional index regulator. Although auction descriptions do not name the regulator, the production dates and shared base support the index arrangement.

Rolex stamped the 1035's self-winding bridge "1030," as it also did on the 1036. This causes auction catalogues to identify the same reference under both numbers. The calendar work and 6.66mm height distinguish the 1035 from the 5.85mm no-date 1030. A correct ref. 6534 contains a 1035 regardless of its bridge engraving.

<span id="cal-1530"></span>
=== Cal. 1530 ===
[[File:Cal 1530 butterfly rotor.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 1530-era butterfly rotor halves, Rolex coronet stamped|alt=Cal. 1530-era butterfly rotor halves, Rolex coronet stamped]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 17 / 25 / 26 (market variants)
|-
| frequency
| 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 42h (registry; 44h in some secondary tables)
|-
| size
| 12½′′′
|-
| escapement
| Swiss lever, club-tooth
|-
| balance
| Screwed Glucydur
|-
| regulator
| Index (coarse) + micro-star fine-adjust screws
|-
| shock
| KIF, form-dependent (Flector or Elastor)
|}

Cal. 1530 ran from 1957 to 1965. Its 17-, 25- and 26-jewel versions are concurrent market variants, not a chronological progression. Seventeen-jewel movements appear in a 1958-era ref. 5508, a 5500 and a 1011 Eaton, and Rolex’s Technical and Service Information, third edition, discusses the 1520 and 1530 families in its servicing instructions.

Cal. 1530 is the base for the 1520, 1560, 1570 and 1580. They share plates and many service parts, including interchangeable automatic-device bridges, so the engraved bridge number may not identify the movement beneath it. Balance-bridge and regulator form are more reliable.

Regulation combines an index for coarse adjustment with two pairs of micro-star fine-adjustment screws on the outer balance rim. Turning a screw clockwise draws it inward and gains rate. The system resembles Microstella, and Horotec lists the same adjustment tool for the 1530 and later Microstella calibers, but Rolex reserved the Micro-Stella name for its free-sprung 12½-ligne chronometer movements. The 1530 retains an index.

The form-1 balance cock uses KIF Flector; forms 3 and 4 use Elastor, with form 2 also assigned to Flector by specialist comparisons. Interchangeable bridges mean an individual movement's shock setting may not match its engraved caliber number.

The hairspring remains disputed. Antiquorum consistently describes a Breguet overcoil and index regulator, while much of the reference literature gives a flat hairspring with stick regulation. Reliable sources support both descriptions.

Chronometer status also varies. Sotheby's describes the 1530 as uncertified, while Phillips and Christie's identify chronometer examples in the 5504 family. Rare 5512 and 5508 watches with four-line chronometer dials and Cal. 1530 have been reported, though no major-house lot confirms them. Certification appears to have been occasional. The Microstella-equipped 1555 and 1560 became the regular chronometer alternatives used in early refs. 1675 and 1016.

The rotor changed from butterfly to half-moon during production. Later movements also gained blued automatic-bridge screws and coloured reversing wheels in place of brass-coloured gears. Rolex describes the red wheel finish as a hardening treatment for aluminium introduced in 1957; collector descriptions often call the wheels purple and Teflon-coated. Rotor and reversing-wheel form help date an example.

The 1530 first entered the Submariner in ref. 5508, followed by 5510; neither was chronometer-rated at launch. It replaced the 10-series in non-chronometer watches, including Precision models, the Air-King, ref. 5504 "Super-Precision" Explorer and the Canadian Explorer-Date with Cal. 1535. Certified models such as the 6542 GMT, 6610 Explorer, Datejust and Day-Date retained 10xx calibers for longer. Strongly documented fitments include refs. 5508, 5510, 5512, 5513, 5500 and 5504. Single-lot support exists for 5501, 5502, 5506, 5516 and 5590/1011 Eaton. Bonhams listings for refs. 1002 and 1003 are internally inconsistent and remain unconfirmed. Bonhams lot 84 lists caliber 1530 in ref. 1003 case 573,835 and notes a chronometer certificate dated 22 December 1960. The catalogue is the evidence for this individual attribution; it does not resolve why common reference tables omit the 1530 for 1003.

Rolex specifies a 0.122–0.125mm mainspring for the 18,000-vph 1530 and 1560, against up to 0.125 or 0.128mm for the higher-beat 1520 and 1570. Early unjewelled barrel-bridge arbor holes can wear; Rolex prescribed closing the hole or reaming it for a jewel, while later production received a bushing. Rotor-axle wear is another known fault. On the 1560, a hard shock could push the hairspring into the regulator. Rolex supplied a safety pin free of charge and later made it standard, so both guarded and unguarded examples are correct.

<span id="cal-1520"></span>
=== Cal. 1520 ===
[[File:Cal 1520 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 1520, engraved "1520," EmmyWatch|alt=Cal. 1520, engraved "1520," EmmyWatch]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 17 / 25 / 26
|-
| frequency
| 19,800 vph (2.8 Hz)
|-
| size
| 12½′′′
|-
| escapement
| Straight-line lever
|-
| balance
| Monometallic, screwless, flat hairspring
|-
| regulator
| Index (coarse) + two inertia blocks
|-
| shock
| KIF
|}

Produced from 1963 to 1990, Cal. 1520 is the non-chronometer, higher-beat derivative of the 1530. Rolex pairs the 18,000-vph 1530 with the 1560, and the 19,800-vph 1520 with its certified counterpart, the 1570.

Rolex describes regulation by an index and two inertia blocks, one gilt and one nickel-plated, on a screwless balance with a flat hairspring. Turning their splits inward slows the movement and outward gains rate, with about ten seconds per day across the adjustment range. The index handles coarse changes. This differs from both the 1530's micro-star screws and the 1570's free-sprung Microstella system.

Certified calibers use free-sprung Microstella regulation; Cal. 1520 uses an index and inertia blocks.

Rolex’s Technical and Service Information, third edition, describes Cal. 1520’s regulator and inertia blocks. Two Bonhams descriptions call the 1520's balance "free-sprung Gyromax," an error that applies Patek Philippe's trademark to an index-regulated Rolex movement.

Auction descriptions consistently give a flat hairspring, apart from one 2013 Antiquorum outlier that says Breguet. Shock protection is KIF in Flector or Elastor form, identified by balance-bridge and regulator shape. That shape is more reliable than the engraved caliber number because bridges interchange across the series.

The 17-, 25- and 26-jewel counts are concurrent market variants. The 17-jewel version uses a different main plate and bridges, altered escape-wheel pivot geometry, and bushings in place of jewels in the automatic module. Jewel count alone does not establish the rate or condition of an individual movement. Dated examples place 17- and 26-jewel movements together from the mid-1960s, with 25-jewel examples running alongside them.

American tariffs rose sharply above 17 jewels, but Rolex did not document this as the reason for the low-jewel version. Seventeen-jewel movements also reached Europe and Asia, so general cost reduction remains another possibility. The American presentation ref. 7002 has a rotor marked "SEVENTEEN JEWELS" and "UN" for unadjusted, both relevant to the tariff schedule, but this does not settle the question.

Documented fitments include the 5513, 5514 COMEX, 5517 military Submariner, 5500 Air-King and 5520. Ref. 1002 uses chronometer calibers 1530 or 1570; apparent 1520 examples are ref. 5500 cases with 1002 stamped inside the caseback. Ref. 5501 remains unconfirmed. Hacking arrived as a running change around 1972 through parts 8073 and 8074. Two lines above six o'clock identify the non-chronometer dial, against four on certified models.

The barrel bridge and arbor hole are known wear points. Rolex prescribed closing a worn hole or reaming it for a 2.30mm jewel; a later beryllium bushing largely solved the problem. Rotor axles and autowinder wheels also wear, and replacement parts are scarce. Gritty manual winding is normal because the reversers run without lubrication.

<span id="cal-1535"></span>
=== Cal. 1535 ===
[[File:Cal 1535 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 1535, EmmyWatch|alt=Cal. 1535, EmmyWatch]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 26
|-
| frequency
| 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 42h
|-
| size
| 28.5mm
|-
| escapement
| Swiss lever
|-
| balance
| Monometallic, screwed
|-
| regulator
| Index, pre-Microstella
|-
| shock
| Shock-absorber
|}

Cal. 1535 is the non-chronometer date version of the 1530, introduced in 1957 for the Air-King-Date 5700/5701. Monochrome likewise assigns both calibers to the 5700, with 1535 first.

Auction houses usually catalogue refs. 5700 and 5701 under the base caliber. Antiquorum assigns a 1963 ref. 5700 to Cal. 1530 and a 1972 example to 1520, though neither base movement has a date. Those entries agree with Rolex's grouping of 1535 components under Cal. 1530 and 1525 components under Cal. 1520, but they do not identify the fitted caliber.

No auction lot identifies a Cal. 1535 directly, so the listed mechanical figures come from its Cal. 1530 base. Evidence for the hairspring conflicts: auction wording gives a flat spring, while Rolex balance assembly 7855 for the 1530 uses a Breguet overcoil. Repeated catalogue boilerplate is more likely than a separate variant. The 1535 predates Microstella and uses an index with a screwed balance, consistent with the 5700's Precision grade.

Although Cal. 1530 was phased out by 1965, its 1535 date derivative remained in the Air-King-Date into the late 1980s.

<span id="cal-1525"></span>
=== Cal. 1525 ===
[[File:Cal 1525 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 1525, EmmyWatch|alt=Cal. 1525, EmmyWatch]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 17 / 25
|-
| frequency
| 19,800 vph (2.8 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 42h
|-
| size
| 28.5mm
|-
| escapement
| Swiss lever
|-
| balance
| Monometallic, flat hairspring
|-
| regulator
| Index
|-
| shock
| Shock-absorber
|}

Cal. 1525 is the higher-beat, non-chronometer date version of the 1520. Introduced in 1965, it carried the Air-King-Date 5700/5701 through later production. Contemporary chronometer-rated Oyster Perpetual Date references used a related 1500-series caliber instead.

Auction catalogues often label the date-equipped Cal. 1525 as Cal. 1520. Antiquorum does so on a 1972 ref. 5700, while describing the expected flat hairspring and index-regulated architecture. The chronometer-grade 1560 and 1570 use a Breguet overcoil and Microstella. The Cal. 1525 uses the index regulation associated with the uncertified 5700.

Jewel counts of 17, 25 and 26 reflect parallel market executions. Rolex balance-assembly numbers confirm a flat hairspring for the 1520 and 1525, against a Breguet spring on the 1530 and Microstella on the 1560. The 1525 remains index-regulated.

<span id="cal-1560"></span>
=== Cal. 1560 ===
[[File:Cal 1560 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 1560, EmmyWatch|alt=Cal. 1560, EmmyWatch]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 26 (25 in some lot descriptions)
|-
| frequency
| 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 42h (secondary sources only)
|-
| escapement
| Straight-line lever
|-
| balance
| Free-sprung monometallic, Microstella screws
|-
| shock
| KIF (pattern not named in lots)
|}

Cal. 1560 arrived in 1959 as the chronometer-grade 15xx movement, with a free-sprung balance adjusted to temperature and five positions. Auction catalogues give both 25 and 26 jewels without establishing a pattern. Antiquorum usually describes a Breguet overcoil; its flat-hairspring description for one ref. 1502/1503 is an outlier.

Cal. 1560 uses free-sprung Microstella regulation; Cal. 1530 uses an index. Watches made from 1959 to 1965 were tested by the Bureaux Officiels de Contrôle de la Marche des Montres, usually under collective certificates and to a standard around −1/+10 seconds per day in five positions. COSC did not exist until September 1973, so describing an early 1560 as COSC-certified is anachronistic.

Factory balance 7980 is used in the 18,000-vph chronometer group: 1555, 1556, 1560 and 1565. Later replacement part 8106 and balance bridge 8102 span both 18,000- and 19,800-vph family members, so a serviced 1560 may carry the later balance. Documented fitments include the four-line 5512, 5504 and Explorer 1016. The GMT-Master 1675 instead used the 1565 to about the 1.4-million serial range and the 1575 thereafter. Family-wide bridge engravings explain 1675 movements marked 1560 or 1570; a base 1560 lacks both calendar and 24-hour works. Although 1570 became the new fitment in 1965, 1560 movements appear in Explorers until about 1967.

<span id="cal-1565"></span>
=== Cal. 1565 ===
[[File:Cal 1565 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 1565, EmmyWatch|alt=Cal. 1565, EmmyWatch]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 25–26 (sources disagree)
|-
| frequency
| 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 42h (registry; 44h in some secondary tables)
|-
| escapement
| Straight-line lever
|-
| balance
| Free-sprung, Microstella
|-
| shock
| KIF
|}

Produced from 1959 to 1965, Cal. 1565 is the early ref. 1675's "caller" GMT movement: its 24-hour hand remains linked to the main hour hand rather than independently adjustable. Rolex kept that layout until Cal. 3085. The 1565 introduced a free-sprung Breguet overcoil with Microstella regulation to this lineage, replacing the index used by earlier sport calibers.

<span id="cal-1570"></span>
=== Cal. 1570 ===
[[File:Cal 1570 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 1570, open caseback|alt=Cal. 1570, open caseback]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 26
|-
| frequency
| 19,800 vph (2.8 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 48h
|-
| size
| 12.5′′′ (28.2mm)
|-
| escapement
| Straight-line lever
|-
| balance
| Free-sprung monometallic, four Microstella screws
|-
| shock
| KIF (Flector or Elastor)
|}

Cal. 1570 is the 19,800-vph revision of the 1560, introduced in 1965. One Artcurial ref. 1005 lot is catalogued with Cal. 1550, despite a chronometer-dial description; other 1005 catalogues list 1560 or 1570. This single lot does not establish a 1005 movement variant or resolve whether the movement is original. It retains the free-sprung Breguet overcoil and Microstella regulation, with adjustment to temperature and five positions. Family-wide bridge engraving causes date movements such as the 1575 in a ref. 1665 to appear marked 1570; the engraving alone does not identify the exact caliber.

The balance has four Microstella screws in two opposing pairs, not two. Rolex required equal adjustment within each pair to preserve poise. The larger pair changes rate by about two seconds per day and the smaller by about one. On this family the screws sit in the balance rim; the later 3135 platform moves its Microstella nuts to the inner rim.

KIF's circa-1972 material catalogue lists Flector and Elastor settings for Rolex; it does not list Ultraflex. Auction catalogues name only a shock absorber, while Rolex part 8065 serves the upper balance setting across the 1520, 1530, 1560 and 1570. The available records support Flector and Elastor.

Hacking appeared gradually around 1971–72, with timing varying by model. Cal. 3035 began replacing the 1570 in new production from 1977, but the Explorer 1016 retained it until 1988–89. The documented diameter is 12.5 lignes, or 28.2mm; the often-published 28.5mm is a rounded conversion. Published heights conflict.

<span id="cal-1575"></span>
=== Cal. 1575 ===
[[File:Cal 1575 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 1575, EmmyWatch|alt=Cal. 1575, EmmyWatch]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 26 (25 per Ashton Tracy)
|-
| frequency
| 19,800 vph (2.8 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 48h
|-
| escapement
| Straight-line lever
|-
| balance
| Free-sprung monometallic, Microstella screws (1570 balance)
|-
| shock
| KIF (Flector or Elastor)
|}

Cal. 1575 adds calendar work to the 1570; the GMT execution also adds a 24-hour train. Antiquorum and Sotheby's give 26 jewels, while watchmaker Ashton Tracy's 2018 ''Quill & Pad'' study gives 25. Tracy records a 48-hour power reserve; the often-published 50-hour figure lacks support.

Rolex engraved the 1575 bridge "1570," so that marking on a ref. 1680 or 1675 identifies the caliber family. Factory parts records distinguish 1565G, 1575, 1575G and 1575GMT. Date and GMT versions are separately catalogued builds, and the GMT parts also circulated as a conversion set for a standard 1560 or 1570.

The 1575 shares factory balance assembly 8106 with the 1570 and related family members. It has shock protection on the escape wheel on both dial and movement sides, as well as on the balance. Documented fitments include the Submariner 1680, GMT-Master 1675 from about the 1.4-million serial range, Explorer II 1655 and Sea-Dweller 1665.

<span id="gmt-branch"></span>
== GMT-Master line ==

Early GMT-Master movements synchronized the hour hands. Published references and auction catalogues name calibres 1030, 1036, 1065 and 1066 for the 6542; the sources do not give a consistent changeover chronology. Cal. 1565, 1575 and 3075 retained the synchronized, or "caller," layout through the 1675 and 16750 generations. Cal. 3085 introduced an independently adjustable local-hour hand. Cal. 3175 kept the synchronized layout in the 16700 until 1999, alongside calibres 3185 and 3186 in the 16710.

<span id="cal-1036"></span>
=== Cal. 1036 ===
[[File:Cal 1036 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 1036, EmmyWatch|alt=Cal. 1036, EmmyWatch]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 25
|-
| frequency
| 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 42h (secondary sources only)
|-
| escapement
| Straight-line lever (inferred, 1030 base)
|-
| balance
| Monometallic (inferred, 1030 base)
|-
| shock
| KIF (inferred)
|}

The Field Manual lists Cal. 1036 for the 6542, and Monochrome describes it as a Cal. 1030 with a 24-hour train. Sotheby's catalogues identify several individual 6542s with Cal. 1030, while other lots name 1065 or 1066. These attributions leave the 1036's place in the reference's production run unresolved. Period chronometer certificates came from the Bureaux Officiels; COSC began in 1973.

Published chronologies differ: a Phillips catalogue essay dates the 6542 release to 1954, while Rolex places the GMT-Master in 1955. The relationship between those dates remains unresolved in the cited sources.

The listed escapement, balance and shock protection are inferred from the Cal. 1030 base; no Cal. 1036 source documents them directly. Auction catalogues seldom identify a 6542 movement as Cal. 1036, so those three specifications remain provisional.

<span id="cal-1065"></span>
=== Cal. 1065 ===
[[File:Cal 1065 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 1065, EmmyWatch|alt=Cal. 1065, EmmyWatch]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 25
|-
| frequency
| 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 42h (secondary sources only)
|-
| escapement
| Straight-line lever (inferred, 1030 base)
|-
| balance
| Monometallic (inferred, 1030 base)
|-
| shock
| KIF (inferred)
|}

Auction catalogues identify Cal. 1065 in individual 6542 examples as an automatic movement with 25 jewels. The Field Manual also lists it for the reference. Those records establish the attribution to examples; they leave its production dates and position relative to calibres 1030, 1036 and 1066 open. Published 42-hour reserve figures come from secondary sources.

The escapement, balance, and shock rows likewise derive from the Cal. 1030 base. Cal. 1066 cataloguing supports that family relationship, but these details have not been documented directly on a Cal. 1065.

<span id="cal-1066"></span>
=== Cal. 1066 ===
[[File:Cal 1066 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 1066, stamped "1066," butterfly rotor engraved "Rolex Perpetual Patented," EmmyWatch|alt=Cal. 1066, stamped "1066," butterfly rotor engraved "Rolex Perpetual Patented," EmmyWatch]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 25
|-
| frequency
| 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 42h
|}

Auction catalogues identify Cal. 1066 in steel and gold 6542 examples, including watches dated circa 1958 and 1959. The Field Manual lists the caliber for the reference as well. Its published specification is 18,000 vph and 25 jewels; Antiquorum describes a straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to temperature and five positions, shock absorber, and self-compensating Breguet hairspring. The available records place Cal. 1066 in late examples, but do not establish it as the final fitment or date a change from Cal. 1065.

The regulator and balance specification remain uncertain. Cal. 1030 descriptions name an index regulator, while Cal. 1066 descriptions omit it; one 6542 is catalogued with a free-sprung Glucydur balance. This may mark a running change or inconsistent cataloguing. A circa-1959 Phillips example directly confirms the Cal. 1066's butterfly rotor.

Published examples dated circa 1958 and 1959 carry different movement labels. A steel watch has a IV.1958 caseback; auction catalogues date two gold watches to 1959. These individual records show more than one caliber in late examples.

<span id="cal-3075"></span>
=== Cal. 3075 ===
[[File:Cal 3075 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 3075, engraved "3075," EmmyWatch|alt=Cal. 3075, engraved "3075," EmmyWatch]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 27
|-
| frequency
| 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 48h
|-
| escapement
| Straight-line lever
|-
| balance
| Free-sprung monometallic, Microstella screws
|-
| balance support
| Balance cock (3035 generation)
|-
| shock
| KIF (inferred; lots record only "shock absorber")
|}

Cal. 3075 carried the synchronized "caller" GMT layout into the 16750 generation. It has 27 jewels, a straight-line lever escapement, a monometallic balance adjusted to temperature and five positions, a free-sprung Breguet hairspring regulated by Microstella screws, hacking, and quickset. The quickset advances only the date wheel.

The balance is monometallic, not Glucydur. Catalogue descriptions identify Microstella screws but do not record their count, material, or position on the rim. They also name a shock absorber without identifying its maker, so the KIF attribution remains inferred from Rolex practice of the period.

The 3075 belongs to the 3035 generation and uses its cantilevered balance cock. Cal. 3175 and 3185 later introduced a balance bridge anchored at both ends. Its start date is disputed: the 16750 did not appear in a Rolex catalogue until 1981, while Antiquorum dates production of the 16758 to 1979. Known fitments are the steel 16750, steel-and-gold 16753, and gold 16758. The 3075 also moved the GMT hand above the hour hand, reversing the Cal. 1575 stack; later GMT calibers retained that arrangement.

<span id="cal-3085"></span>
=== Cal. 3085 ===
[[File:Cal 3085 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 3085, EmmyWatch|alt=Cal. 3085, EmmyWatch]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 27
|-
| frequency
| 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 48h
|-
| size
| 28.5mm × 6.3–7.2mm (sources disagree)
|-
| escapement
| Swiss lever
|-
| balance
| Free-sprung, Microstella
|-
| shock
| KIF (per published specs, unconfirmed)
|}

Cal. 3085 ran from 1983 to 1989 on the Cal. 3035 platform, with 27 jewels, a 28,800 vph frequency, 48 hours of reserve, hacking, and chronometer certification. It was the first Rolex caliber to separate the local-hour hand from the 24-hour hand. The crown jumps the local hour forward or backward in one-hour steps without disturbing the minutes, seconds, or home-time hand. The date advances only by cycling the local-hour hand, so the movement has no direct quickset date.

Published thickness figures conflict. Grail Watch Reference gives 6.3mm, while Caliber Corner gives 7.2mm against the Cal. 3185's 6.45mm. The 16760's thick movement and case produced the "Fat Lady" and "Sophia Loren" nicknames. Cal. 3085 appeared only in the 16760 GMT-Master II and 16550 Explorer II. Published specifications agree on a Breguet hairspring and Microstella regulation, but KIF shock protection has not been confirmed by an auction description or Rolex document.

<span id="cal-3175"></span>
=== Cal. 3175 ===
[[File:Cal 3175 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 3175, EmmyWatch|alt=Cal. 3175, EmmyWatch]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 31
|-
| frequency
| 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 48h
|-
| escapement
| Swiss lever
|-
| balance
| Free-sprung Glucydur, Microstella
|-
| balance support
| Balance bridge (3135 generation)
|-
| shock
| KIF Elastor (3100-family text, not lot-confirmed)
|}

Cal. 3175 ran from 1988 to 1999 with 31 jewels, a 28,800 vph frequency, 48 hours of reserve, hacking, quickset, and chronometer certification. Auction descriptions confirm the jewel count and adjustment to temperature and five positions. Published 3100-family specifications support a free-sprung Glucydur balance, Microstella regulation, Breguet hairspring and KIF Elastor setting. No examined Cal. 3175 lot confirms KIF Elastor.

Architecturally, Cal. 3175 is a Cal. 3135 with a fixed 24-hour hand. It uses the 3135's balance bridge, anchored at both ends, where Cal. 3075 used a cantilevered cock. The 24-hour hand remains linked to the local hour hand, so a second time zone is read from the rotating bezel. The 16700 kept this synchronized layout while the rest of the line moved to the jumping-hour Cal. 3185.

Cal. 3175 appeared only in the 16700 and was Rolex's last fixed GMT movement. Reports of factory Cal. 3185 fitment in late 16700s rest on a contradictory parts listing and a rebuilt watch; documented Cal. 3185 fitment belongs to the 16710. Sotheby's has incorrectly described Cal. 3175 as having an independent GMT hand. The accepted 16700 production span is 1988–1999, although Fratello gives 2001 in one account. The 1997 change from tritium to Super-LumiNova affected the dial, not the movement.

<span id="cal-3185"></span>
=== Cal. 3185 ===
[[File:Cal 3185 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 3185, engraved "3185"|alt=Cal. 3185, engraved "3185"]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 31
|-
| frequency
| 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 48h
|-
| size
| 6.45mm
|-
| balance
| Free-sprung Glucydur, four Microstella nuts
|}

Cal. 3185 ran from 1989 to about 2007. Derived from Cal. 3135 with added 24-hour work, it has 31 jewels, a 28,800 vph frequency, 48 hours of reserve, hacking, an independently adjustable local-hour hand, chronometer certification, and KIF Elastor shock protection. It powered the 16710, 16713, 16718, and 16570, replacing Cal. 3085 in the GMT-Master II and Explorer II.

The balance carries four Microstella nuts arranged as two opposing pairs of different sizes. Rolex's Microstella wrench instructions require equal adjustment of both nuts in a pair to preserve the balance-wheel poise. Adjusting one without its opposite puts the wheel out of poise.

Published Cal. 3085 thickness figures span 6.3 to 7.2mm. Cal. 3185 is 6.45mm, so it is thinner than the thicker 16760 specification but not every published 3085 measurement. That helped the 16710 sit flatter than the "Fat Lady" 16760. During setting, the 24-hour hand may twitch as the local hour jumps; this is a screening clue, not proof of caliber identity.

The date is corrected by moving the local-hour hand through midnight; there is no separate direct quickset for the date disc.

<span id="cal-3186"></span>
=== Cal. 3186 ===
[[File:Cal 3186 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 3186, engraved "3186"|alt=Cal. 3186, engraved "3186"]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 31
|-
| frequency
| 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 50h
|-
| size
| 28.5mm × 6.45mm
|-
| escapement
| Swiss lever
|-
| balance
| Monometallic, free-sprung
|-
| regulator
| Microstella screws, no index
|-
| shock
| Shock-absorber, pre-Paraflex
|}

Cal. 3186 predates the steel GMT-Master II transition of 2007; the gold example discussed below was sold in 2006. It added a Parachrom hairspring to the Cal. 3185 base while retaining 31 jewels, a 28,800 vph frequency, hacking, an independently adjustable local-hour hand, and chronometer certification; reserve increased to 50 hours. It powered late 16710 production and the ceramic-bezel 116710LN, 116710BLNR, and 116719BLRO.

The movement has a straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to temperature and five positions, shock protection, a free-sprung Breguet-form hairspring, Microstella regulation, and hacking. One Antiquorum description calls the hairspring blued steel, but Cal. 3186 uses Parachrom, a niobium-zirconium alloy coloured by an oxide layer rather than tempering.

Cal. 3186 retains the Cal. 3135 architecture used by the 3185: 28.5mm diameter, 6.45mm height, 28,800 vph, and 31 jewels. It also keeps the plain-bearing oscillating-weight axle, part 568, shared with Cal. 3130, 3135, 3155, and 3175. Axle condition must be assessed during service.

Rolex introduced Cal. 3186 as a running change, leaving its start date unsettled. Steel 16710 examples begin among late Z- and M-series cases; the lowest documented example is Z 5786xx, but higher Z-series watches can still contain Cal. 3185. Gold references changed earlier. A D-series 116718 catalogued with Cal. 3186 was sold in August 2006, placing the movement in production before the commonly cited 2007 steel transition.

Both Cal. 3185 and 3186 index the local-hour hand with a jumping-hour click. Cal. 3186 reworked the parts and reduced slack between the drive-train wheels. On Cal. 3185, the 24-hour hand twitches when the local hour jumps; on Cal. 3186, it remains still. Treat this as a screening clue and confirm the caliber by inspecting the movement.

Failure of the local-hour hand to index in one-hour steps calls for examination of the setting mechanism. The symptom alone does not identify which part needs replacement.

The date is corrected by moving the local-hour hand through midnight; there is no separate direct quickset for the date disc.

<span id="cal-3187"></span>
=== Cal. 3187 ===
[[File:Cal 3187 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 3187, official Rolex photo, engraved "3187," blue Parachrom hairspring, free-sprung Microstella balance|alt=Cal. 3187, official Rolex photo, engraved "3187," blue Parachrom hairspring, free-sprung Microstella balance]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 31
|-
| frequency
| 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 48–50h (sources disagree)
|-
| size
| 30.97mm (contested; 28.5mm also published)
|-
| escapement
| Swiss lever
|-
| balance
| Monometallic, free-sprung
|-
| regulator
| Microstella screws, no index
|-
| shock
| Paraflex
|}

Cal. 3187 is an enlarged Cal. 3186, widened to move the date window outward in the 42mm Explorer II case. It powered only the 216570 from 2011 to 2021, before Cal. 3285 replaced it in the 226570. The Parachrom hairspring, Breguet overcoil, and independently adjustable local-hour hand carry over from the GMT lineage. Paraflex is new here, replacing the KIF Elastor used by Cal. 3185. Within the GMT and Explorer II lineage covered on this page, Cal. 3187 is the first entry listed with Paraflex.

Cal. 3187 uses a larger baseplate and reworked surrounding parts but retains the Cal. 3186 regulating organ: a straight-line lever escapement, free-sprung monometallic balance under a full bridge, and Microstella regulation without an index. Auction catalogues confirm 31 jewels but do not itemize those inherited components.

Rolex launched the 216570 and Cal. 3187 together in March 2011 for the Explorer II's fortieth anniversary. The 42mm case required the larger movement, while the orange 24-hour hand recalled the 1655. Both remained in production until 2021, and no other reference used the caliber.

Two documented unit commissions use Cal. 3187. A 2012 white-dial 216570 made for members of the British Special Air Service carries "Who Dares Wins," the winged-dagger badge, and its owner's identifiers. A circa-2015 example numbered 40/48 was made for the UK Attack Helicopter Force. These were unit commissions rather than ministry-issued watches and should not be classified with the 5513 MilSub.

The local-hour hand should index in one-hour steps during setting. Irregular movement requires inspection of the mechanism.

The −2/+2 rating applies only after Rolex redefined Superlative Chronometer in 2015. Earlier watches carried the COSC −4/+6 seconds-per-day standard for the uncased movement; later examples were tested again by Rolex as complete watches. The underlying caliber did not change beyond regulation.

<span id="sport-modern"></span>
<span id="Modern_sport_calibers_(1988–2020)"></span>
== Modern sport calibers (1988–2023 coverage) ==

Cal. 3000 introduced a 28,800-vph no-date movement, followed by Cals. 3130 and 3132. Cal. 3135 powered three decades of Submariner Date production.

<span id="cal-3000"></span>
=== Cal. 3000 ===
[[File:Cal 3000 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 3000|alt=Cal. 3000]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 27
|-
| frequency
| 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 42h (48h in some sources)
|-
| size
| 28.5mm × 5.8mm
|-
| balance
| Adjustable-mass, flat hairspring
|}

Cal. 3000 is the no-date member of the 3000 family, used from about 1990 to 2001 in the Air-King 14000 and 14010, Submariner 14060, and Explorer 14270. The often-quoted 1988 start belongs to Cal. 3135. The Air-King changed to reference 14000M in 2000, while the Explorer became the 114270 and the Submariner adopted Cal. 3130 in 2001. Published power-reserve figures conflict at 42 and 48 hours; no Rolex figure settles the difference.

Cal. 3000 uses a flat hairspring, a useful distinction from the Breguet overcoil in Cal. 3130. Microstella adjustment sets the rate without an index, the hairspring is glued to the balance stud, and shock protection is KIF. COSC certification used the standard −4/+6 seconds-per-day tolerance.

<span id="cal-3035"></span>
=== Cal. 3035 ===
[[File:Cal 3035 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 3035, engraved "3035," EmmyWatch|alt=Cal. 3035, engraved "3035," EmmyWatch]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 27
|-
| frequency
| 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 48h
|-
| balance
| Free-sprung, four Microstella screws
|-
| shock
| KIF Elastor
|}

Cal. 3035 ran from 1977 to 1988 in the 16800, 168000, 16808, and 16803. It was the first quickset Submariner caliber, with 27 jewels, a 28,800 vph frequency, 48 hours of reserve, hacking, and chronometer certification. Compared with the Cal. 1570 generation, it increased frequency from 19,800 vph and added a crown position that advances the date wheel directly. Its free-sprung Nivarox Breguet overcoil is regulated by four Microstella screws and protected by KIF Elastor.

Two construction details separate it from Cal. 3135. Its balance sits on a cantilevered cock, and its hairspring is glued to the stud. Cal. 3135 uses a bridge anchored at both ends and a laser-welded hairspring stud.

<span id="cal-3130"></span>
=== Cal. 3130 ===
[[File:Cal 3130 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 3130, engraved "3130," EmmyWatch|alt=Cal. 3130, engraved "3130," EmmyWatch]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 31
|-
| frequency
| 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 48h
|-
| size
| 28.5mm × 5.85mm
|-
| escapement
| Swiss lever
|-
| balance
| Monometallic Glucydur, free-sprung
|-
| regulator
| Microstella screws, no index
|-
| shock
| KIF Elastor
|}

Cal. 3130 is the time-only successor to Cal. 3000, used in the 14060M, 114060, 114270, and 114200. It brought a full balance bridge, a larger balance wheel, and a Breguet overcoil hairspring. Rolex's parts sheet identifies Cal. 3135 as the base and gives 28.5mm diameter, 5.85mm height, 28,800 vph, and 31 jewels. Published introduction dates range from 1999 to 2001; the precise year remains unsettled.

Cal. 3000 supports its balance from a cock anchored on one side; the 3130 uses a bridge secured at both ends, which stabilizes endshake under lateral shock. Its Glucydur balance is free-sprung, with Microstella nuts setting the rate without an index. KIF Elastor shock protection distinguishes it from the Paraflex-equipped Cal. 3132. At 5.85mm it is 0.15mm thinner than Cal. 3135 because it omits the date mechanism. The main plate is the dedicated part 3130-100, although some smaller components retain 3135 part numbers.

The 14060M initially used Cal. 3130 without COSC certification and carried a two-line dial. Certification arrived in late 2007, adding the two-line "Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified" inscription. The movement itself did not change.

The oscillating-weight axle uses a plain bearing. A service assessment should check the rotor and its bearing for wear and contact with surrounding parts.

Cal. 3131, announced in 2007, adapts the 3130 for magnetic resistance with a blue Parachrom hairspring, a paramagnetic nickel-phosphorus escapement, and a two-part soft-iron shield around the movement. It powered the Milgauss 116400 and 116400GV, then the Air-King 116900.

<span id="cal-3132"></span>
=== Cal. 3132 ===
[[File:Cal 3132 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 3132|alt=Cal. 3132]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 31
|-
| frequency
| 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 48h
|-
| size
| 30.97mm (contested; 28.5mm also published)
|-
| escapement
| Swiss lever
|-
| balance
| Monometallic Glucydur, free-sprung
|-
| regulator
| Microstella screws, no index
|-
| shock
| Paraflex
|}

Cal. 3132 powered the 39mm Explorer 214270 from 2010 until the 36mm successor arrived in 2021. It is a Cal. 3130 with a Parachrom hairspring and Paraflex shock protection, retaining 31 jewels, a 28,800 vph frequency, 48 hours of reserve, hacking, and chronometer certification.

The base architecture remains a straight-line lever escapement with a free-sprung Glucydur balance under a full bridge, Microstella regulation, and no index. Paraflex replaced the 3130's KIF Elastor settings; Rolex's published material claims up to 50 per cent greater shock resistance than KIF. That comparison is a manufacturer claim, not an independent test. The blue Parachrom hairspring replaced Nivarox with a paramagnetic niobium-zirconium alloy whose colour comes from a patented oxide treatment.

Cal. 3132 brought Parachrom and Paraflex to the time-only professional line. Parachrom had appeared in Cal. 4130 in 2000, but the Submariner did not receive both features until Cal. 3230 in 2020.

Both dial generations of the 214270 use Cal. 3132. The 2016 revision lengthened the hands and added luminous filling to the 3, 6, and 9 numerals, without changing the movement. Cal. 3132 also retains the 3130’s plain-bearing oscillating-weight axle.

Rolex’s product sheet lists Cal. 3132 for the Oyster Perpetual 39 ref. 114300. Phillips catalogues a white-dial 114300, case P470X511, as Cal. 3230 in its [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/189941 2023 Geneva lot 21] and [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/HK080125/8048 2025 Hong Kong lot 8048]; the matching case number and June 2020 guarantee suggest the records concern one watch. It also catalogues a circa-2015 blue-dial 114300, case 908YN729, as Cal. 3230 in [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/225422 2025 Hong Kong lot 924]. The catalogue descriptions conflict with Rolex’s [https://content.rolex.com/dam/media/brochures/oyster-perpetual/m114300-0004.pdf 114300 product sheet] and do not establish factory fitment; replacement or catalogue error remains unresolved. See [[Reference:114300]].

Rolex redefined Superlative Chronometer in 2015, changing the guaranteed rate from COSC's −4/+6 seconds per day on the uncased movement to −2/+2 on the cased watch after additional in-house testing. The movement did not change, so early and late 214270 examples carry different rate guarantees.

<span id="cal-3135"></span>
=== Cal. 3135 ===
[[File:Cal 3135 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 3135, official Rolex photo, engraved "3135," 31 jewels|alt=Cal. 3135, official Rolex photo, engraved "3135," 31 jewels]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 31
|-
| frequency
| 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 48h
|-
| size
| 28.5mm
|-
| escapement
| Swiss lever
|-
| balance
| Free-sprung Glucydur, four Microstella nuts
|-
| regulator
| Free-sprung, no index
|-
| shock
| KIF (never Paraflex)
|}

Cal. 3135 ran from 1988 to 2021 with 31 jewels, a 28,800 vph frequency, 48 hours of reserve, hacking, quickset, and chronometer certification. It powered the 16610, 16613, and 16618 through the 116610 generation. The Submariner changed to Cal. 3235 with the 126610 on 1 September 2020, but the Oyster Perpetual Date 34 references 115200 and 115234 kept Cal. 3135 in production into 2021. Later end dates conflate it with Cal. 3131. The movement has rhodium plating, bevelled and polished screws, and a two-piece axle-style bidirectional rotor.

The conventional Swiss lever escapement is paired with a free-sprung Glucydur balance. With no index or curb pins, four Microstella nuts on the inside of the rim set the rate by changing the wheel's inertia. Older 1530-family balances place their adjustment screws on the outside. Cal. 3135 uses a Breguet overcoil and laser-welds the hairspring to its stud, replacing the glued joint used by Cal. 3035.

The main architectural change from Cal. 3035 is the balance bridge. Part 3135-120 is secured at both ends and carries height-adjusting nuts, keeping the pivots aligned under load and allowing endshake adjustment without shims. It also prevents the hairspring from fouling a cantilevered balance cock, a known Cal. 3035 problem. Cal. 3135 increased the jewel count from 27 to 31 and uses a larger balance wheel.

Cal. 3135 used KIF shock protection throughout its run and never received Paraflex. Rolex assigned new caliber numbers to Paraflex versions: 3130 became 3132, 3155 became 3156, and 3186 became 3187. The larger Paraflex date movement for the Datejust II was Cal. 3136. A 16610 or 116610 described as having Paraflex is misidentified.

Parachrom arrived during the Cal. 3135 run, but the transition date is unsettled. The niobium-zirconium alloy receives a uniform anodised oxide layer about 50 nanometres thick, which gives the hairspring its blue colour and stabilizes its restoring torque. Published dates for its adoption in Cal. 3135 range from about 2005 to 2009, with transitional examples reported on both sides. The ceramic-bezel 116610 uses it consistently from 2010. The spring's colour provides only a rough dating marker.

The reversing wheels transmit winding power when the rotor turns in either direction. Rolex dates their patent to 1952 and the introduction of their red surface treatment to 1957. Their colour identifies the component type, not Cal. 3135 by itself.

Earlier movements carried COSC's −4/+6 seconds-per-day standard. From 2015, Rolex applied its −2/+2 Superlative Chronometer test to the complete watch without changing the caliber. Derivatives include Cal. 3155, 3175, 3185, 3186, 3187, and the no-date 3130, 3131, and 3132.

<span id="milgauss-family"></span>
== Milgauss ==

Rolex introduced the documented Milgauss calibers about fifty years apart. Rolex adapted its contemporary sport movements for the Milgauss: Cal. 1580 derives from the 1530 platform, and Cal. 3131 from Cal. 3130.

<span id="cal-1580"></span>
=== Cal. 1580 ===
[[File:Cal 1580 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 1580, marked "26 Jewels, Adjusted Six 6 Positions" — EmmyWatch|alt=Cal. 1580, marked "26 Jewels, Adjusted Six 6 Positions" — EmmyWatch]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 26
|-
| frequency
| 19,800 vph (2.8 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 48h
|-
| size
| 28.5mm × 5.75mm
|-
| escapement
| Straight-line lever
|-
| balance
| Free-sprung monometallic, Microstella screws
|-
| regulator
| None — free-sprung
|-
| shock
| Shock absorber
|}

Cal. 1580 is associated exclusively with the [[Reference:1019|Milgauss 1019]] during its 1960–1988 run, subject to the early-production dating conflict below. It shares the 1530-derived platform with Cal. 1570 and 1575, and gained hacking around 1972. A soft-iron inner shield around the movement provides the magnetic protection, making the 1019 thicker than contemporary Submariner and GMT-Master cases using the same movement family. Parts interchange broadly across the 1520/1525/1530/1535/1555/1556/1560/1565/1570/1575/1580 group.

Cal. 1580 has 26 jewels, a straight-line lever escapement, a monometallic balance adjusted to temperature and five positions, shock protection, and a Breguet hairspring. Antiquorum describes the hairspring as free-sprung white metal with Microstella regulation. That matches Cal. 1560 and 1570 on the same platform, although no second auction house specifies the regulation system.

The case provides the magnetic shielding. A gilt-metal anti-magnetic cap and the surrounding inner case absorb the field. Cal. 1580 uses the standard 1530-family balance and hairspring inside the shielded case. Rolex added hacking in 1972 with the corresponding sport-caliber revision.

Watch Doctor’s chart assigns Cal. 1580 to 1963, later than the usual dating of the first 1019s to around 1960. That discrepancy does not establish that early 1019s contained a different caliber. A proposed alternative needs a documented watch or a Rolex record.

<span id="cal-3131"></span>
=== Cal. 3131 ===
[[File:Cal 3131 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 3131 from a Milgauss 116400GV, auto bridge and gold reversing wheels|alt=Cal. 3131 from a Milgauss 116400GV, auto bridge and gold reversing wheels]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 31
|-
| frequency
| 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 48h
|-
| size
| 28.5mm
|-
| escapement
| Nickel-phosphorus escape wheel & pallet fork
|-
| balance
| Free-sprung monometallic, Microstella
|-
| shock
| KIF
|}

Cal. 3131 is a no-date Cal. 3130 derivative announced at Baselworld 2007 for the [[Reference:116400|Milgauss 116400]] and 116400GV "Glace Verte." From 2016 it also powered the Air-King 40 reference 116900. Magnetic protection has three parts. A two-piece ferromagnetic shield encloses the movement, with one half secured on the dial side and the other beneath the outer caseback; the inner back carries a capital "B" and arrow, the symbol for magnetic flux density. The movement also uses a paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring and an amorphous nickel-phosphorus escape wheel and pallet fork.

Cal. 3131 remained COSC-certified throughout its run, with KIF shock protection and a conventional Swiss lever escapement. It never received Chronergy or Paraflex. Rolex applied the tighter −2/+2 seconds-per-day Superlative Chronometer standard from 2015, so later 116900 and 116400GV examples carry the revised rating without a corresponding movement change. The Air-King remained in production to 2022 and the Milgauss to 2023.

<span id="daytona-manual"></span>
== Daytona chronograph (manual-wind) ==

The manual-wind Daytona used Valjoux 72 architecture from 1963 through 1988. Across five caliber numbers, Rolex progressively refinished and re-rated the Valjoux 72 ébauche.

Valjoux joined the Ebauches SA group in 1944 and was later folded into ETA, though the Valjoux name remained in use through the end of Cal. 72 production in 1974. At least 62,000 Valjoux 72/23 movements are recorded in Rolex cases across more than 40 references, about 7 per cent of total output. Heuer, Universal Genève and Longines also used the base. Rolex examples differ in their finishing and adjustment.

<span id="cal-72"></span>
=== Cal. 72 ===
[[File:Cal 72 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Valjoux 72 ébauche, caliber "72" stamped at 6 o'clock beside the Valjoux logo, plate marked "Seventeen 17 Jewels Unadjusted," stock index regulator with F/A–S/R scale — the untouched configuration Rolex fitted as Cal. 72. This example's chronograph bridge is signed Heuer-Leonidas SA|alt=Valjoux 72 ébauche, caliber "72" stamped at 6 o'clock beside the Valjoux logo, plate marked "Seventeen 17 Jewels Unadjusted," stock index regulator with F/A–S/R scale — the untouched configuration Rolex fitted as Cal. 72. This example's chronograph bridge is signed Heuer-Leonidas SA]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Manual
|-
| complication
| Chronograph
|-
| jewels
| 17
|-
| frequency
| 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 48h
|-
| escapement
| Swiss lever
|-
| shock
| Incabloc
|}

Used in the pre-Daytona ref. 6234 from about 1955 to 1961, Cal. 72 remained close to the Valjoux ébauche. Rolex retained its index regulator, flat hairspring and Incabloc protection. Auction records document the bare Cal. 72 designation on examples from 1957 and around 1960; published production dates for the 6234 end in either 1960 or about 1961.

<span id="cal-72a"></span>
=== Cal. 72A ===
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Manual
|-
| complication
| Chronograph
|-
| jewels
| 17
|-
| frequency
| 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 48h
|-
| escapement
| Swiss lever
|-
| shock
| Incabloc
|}

Cal. 72A appears in late ref. 6234s from the late 1950s to about 1961. It retains the index regulator and flat hairspring that Cal. 72B would replace, making it a Rolex-finished but otherwise conventional Valjoux 72 execution. The meaning of the ROW stamp remains uncertain: Sotheby's associates it with US importation, while Grail Watch Reference reads it as Rolex Werke. Neither interpretation is supported by a known Rolex document.

<span id="cal-72b"></span>
=== Cal. 72B ===
[[File:Cal 72B movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Rolex-signed Valjoux 72-family movement, seventeen jewels — caliber sub-variant not distinguishable from the engraving alone|alt=Rolex-signed Valjoux 72-family movement, seventeen jewels — caliber sub-variant not distinguishable from the engraving alone]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Manual
|-
| complication
| Chronograph
|-
| jewels
| 17
|-
| frequency
| 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 48h
|-
| escapement
| Swiss lever
|-
| balance
| Microstella, adjustable inertia
|-
| shock
| KIF (often Flector)
|}

Used in the ref. 6238 and the last 6234s, Cal. 72B marks Rolex's first substantial reworking of the Valjoux base. The index regulator gave way to a Microstella adjustable-inertia balance, the flat hairspring to a Breguet overcoil, and Incabloc protection to KIF, often in its clover-shaped Flector form. The caliber also has the earlier screwed setting lever, later replaced by a pusher type.

The transition date is disputed. Dody Giussani's text for ''Ultimate Rolex Daytona'' dates the complete replacement of Cal. 72A to 1966, while auction records identify Cal. 72B in ref. 6234 examples from around 1961. Giussani finds no substantial mechanical difference between the 72B and 722 and notes that Rolex used both names in its technical documents. The regulating organ changed before Rolex consistently adopted the later caliber name.

<span id="cal-722"></span>
=== Cal. 722 ===
[[File:Cal 722 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Rolex-signed Valjoux 72-family movement, seventeen jewels — caliber sub-variant not distinguishable from the engraving alone|alt=Rolex-signed Valjoux 72-family movement, seventeen jewels — caliber sub-variant not distinguishable from the engraving alone]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Manual
|-
| complication
| Chronograph
|-
| jewels
| 17
|-
| frequency
| 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 48h
|-
| escapement
| Swiss lever
|-
| balance
| Microstella, adjustable inertia
|-
| shock
| KIF (often Flector)
|}

Cal. 722 powered the refs. 6239, 6240 and 6241, including examples with "Paul Newman" dials. Its column wheel controls a horizontal clutch through a coupling yoke. Engagement can make the chronograph hand jump slightly forward or back at the start, a trait later removed by the vertical clutch in Cal. 4130.

The position of the "Rolex Genève" inscription on the dial-side plate distinguishes Cal. 722 from the 722-1 that followed. The designations otherwise overlap: Christie's records Cal. 72B, 722 and 722-1 across ref. 6241 production. The engraving on the movement is more reliable than a date-based attribution.

<span id="cal-722-1"></span>
=== Cal. 722-1 ===
[[File:Cal 722-1 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Rolex-signed Valjoux 72-family movement, seventeen jewels — caliber sub-variant not distinguishable from the engraving alone|alt=Rolex-signed Valjoux 72-family movement, seventeen jewels — caliber sub-variant not distinguishable from the engraving alone]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Manual
|-
| complication
| Chronograph
|-
| jewels
| 17
|-
| frequency
| 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 48h
|-
| balance
| Microstella (inherited from 722)
|-
| shock
| KIF
|}

Introduced in 1967, Cal. 722-1 was the last 18,000 vph Daytona caliber before Cal. 727 raised the frequency. Rolex described it as a Valjoux 72A-based mechanism with the same dimensions as its predecessor; the changes were internal.

The hour-recorder conveyor gained an eccentric pivot and wing-shaped spring, allowing more precise engagement with the hour wheel. A guard spring above the balance was intended to keep the hairspring on its stud support under shock. Giussani records that the guard had already appeared inconsistently on Cal. 722 and caused problems of its own, so many surviving examples of both calibers lack it.

<span id="cal-727"></span>
=== Cal. 727 ===
[[File:Cal 727 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 727 (right, engraved 727, Daytona ref 6265), specialist comparison photo via Perezcope|alt=Cal. 727 (right, engraved 727, Daytona ref 6265), specialist comparison photo via Perezcope]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Manual
|-
| complication
| Chronograph
|-
| jewels
| 17
|-
| frequency
| 21,600 vph (3 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 48h
|-
| escapement
| Swiss lever
|-
| balance
| Microstella, adjustable inertia
|-
| shock
| KIF
|}

Cal. 727 raised the Valjoux 72 frequency from 18,000 to 21,600 vph and powered the refs. 6262, 6263, 6264 and 6265 from 1970 until 1988. A genuine example has a Breguet overcoil and a bevelled inner edge on the KIF shock-spring retaining ring. These details, together with the engraved caliber number, help distinguish an original movement from a substituted or counterfeit one.

<span id="daytona-auto"></span>
== Daytona chronograph (automatic) ==

<span id="cal-4030"></span>
=== Cal. 4030 ===
[[File:Cal 4030 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 4030, engraved 4030, thirty-one jewels|alt=Cal. 4030, engraved 4030, thirty-one jewels]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| complication
| Chronograph
|-
| jewels
| 31
|-
| frequency
| 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 52–54h (sources disagree)
|-
| balance
| Free-sprung Breguet
|-
| escapement
| Swiss lever
|}

Launched with the ref. 16520 in 1988, Cal. 4030 was a heavily reworked Zenith El Primero 400 and the last externally designed movement used by Rolex. Rolex removed the date, reduced the frequency from 36,000 to 28,800 vph and changed more than half of the components. A Breguet overcoil replaced the flat hairspring, while a free-sprung Glucydur balance with Microstella regulation and KIF protection replaced the Zenith oscillator. The chronograph retained a column wheel and horizontal clutch.

Published power-reserve figures split between 52 and 54 hours, with no known Rolex document settling the difference. The photographed movement is signed "MONTRES ROLEX S.A. GENEVA SWISS, ADJ. 5 POSITIONS TEMPERATURE, THIRTY-ONE JEWELS" and stamped "4030."

<span id="cal-4130"></span>
=== Cal. 4130 ===
[[File:Cal 4130 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 4130 movement detail, bridge marked "4130"|alt=Cal. 4130 movement detail, bridge marked "4130"]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| complication
| Chronograph
|-
| jewels
| 44
|-
| frequency
| 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 72h
|-
| escapement
| Swiss lever, 52° lift angle
|-
| balance
| Free-sprung, four gold Microstella nuts
|-
| shock
| KIF
|}

Cal. 4130 was developed and manufactured by Rolex for the ref. 116520 in 2000. [https://www.rolex.com/en-us/about-rolex/history/2000-2013 Rolex history, 2000–2013] Its column wheel and vertical clutch avoid the hand jump reported for Cal. 4030 when the chronograph starts. The movement uses 201 components, about 20 per cent fewer than its predecessor, and twelve types of screw rather than more than forty.

The rotor runs on a ball bearing; the Cal. 3135 generation uses a jewelled sleeve. Claims that the bearing is ceramic lack support from Rolex or specialist documentation. The free-sprung balance sits under a transversal bridge and uses KIF protection. Chronergy, Paraflex, an optimised rotor bearing and Côtes de Genève arrived with Cal. 4131 in 2023. The display back also belongs to that successor and was limited to platinum; every Cal. 4130 Daytona has a solid caseback.

Parachrom was fitted from launch, but the blue version is variously dated between about 2005 and 2007 without a supporting Rolex document. Later examples were rated to Rolex's −2/+2 seconds-per-day standard after its introduction in 2015. Cal. 4130 continued through the ref. 116500LN until Cal. 4131 replaced it in March 2023.

<span id="cal-3230"></span>
=== Cal. 3230 ===
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic, no date
|-
| frequency
| 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| Approximately 70 hours
|-
| escapement
| Chronergy
|-
| hairspring / shock
| Blue Parachrom / Paraflex
|-
| documented fitment here
| 124060, 124270, 126000, 126900; catalogue conflicts for some 114300 lots are recorded above
|}

Rolex introduced Cal. 3230 in 2020 as the no-date member of its newer movement generation. Rolex describes the movement with a Chronergy escapement, blue Parachrom hairspring, Paraflex shock absorbers and approximately 70 hours of reserve. The individual reference page remains the authority for a specific watch; catalogue attributions that conflict with Rolex product documentation are recorded as conflicts rather than silently normalized. [https://newsroom-content.rolex.com/-/media/project/rolex/newsroom/rolex/rolex-newsroom-int/about-rolex/history-of-rolex/02_rolex_history_english_2021.pdf Rolex, History of Rolex, 2021]

<span id="cal-3235"></span>
=== Cal. 3235 ===
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic, date
|-
| frequency
| 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| Approximately 70 hours
|-
| escapement
| Chronergy
|-
| hairspring / shock
| Blue Parachrom / Paraflex
|-
| documented fitment here
| Datejust, Sea-Dweller and Submariner Date families
|}

Rolex introduced Cal. 3235 in 2015. It is the date-bearing member of the same generation as Cal. 3230, with a Chronergy escapement, blue Parachrom hairspring, Paraflex protection and approximately 70 hours of reserve. Rolex's brochures describe the date as instantaneous and the watch as COSC-certified and retested after casing to Rolex's tighter standard. [https://content.rolex.com/dam/media/brochures/datejust/m126333-0010.pdf Rolex, Datejust 41 brochure]

<span id="cal-3255"></span>
=== Cal. 3255 ===
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic, day and date
|-
| frequency
| 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| Approximately 70 hours
|-
| escapement
| Chronergy
|-
| hairspring / shock
| Blue Parachrom / Paraflex
|-
| documented fitment here
| Day-Date 40 and Day-Date 36
|}

Rolex introduced Cal. 3255 in 2015 for the Day-Date 40 and later Day-Date 36. The movement provides rapid-setting day and date displays, a Chronergy escapement, blue Parachrom hairspring, Paraflex shock absorbers and approximately 70 hours of reserve. It replaced Cal. 3156 in the Day-Date II successor generation; the 36mm Cal. 3155 remained a separate earlier movement. [https://newsroom-content.rolex.com/-/media/project/rolex/newsroom/rolex/rolex-newsroom-int/about-rolex/history-of-rolex/02_rolex_history_english_2021.pdf Rolex, History of Rolex, 2021] [https://newsroom-content.rolex.com/-/media/project/rolex/newsroom/rolex/rolex-newsroom-int/brochures/en/2022_information_sheet_day-date_en.pdf Rolex, Day-Date information sheet, 2022]

<span id="cal-3285"></span>
=== Cal. 3285 ===
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic GMT
|-
| frequency
| 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| Approximately 70 hours
|-
| functions
| Independent rapid-setting local hour, 24-hour display, instantaneous date
|-
| escapement
| Chronergy
|-
| hairspring / shock
| Blue Parachrom / Paraflex
|-
| documented fitment here
| GMT-Master II 126710, 126711, 126715, 126720 and related current references
|}

Rolex introduced Cal. 3285 in 2018 for the GMT-Master II. Its GMT hand remains independent of the local hour, the date changes instantaneously, and the movement combines Chronergy, a blue Parachrom hairspring, Paraflex protection and approximately 70 hours of reserve. [https://content.rolex.com/dam/media/brochures/gmt-master-ii/m126715chnr-0001.pdf Rolex, GMT-Master II brochure]

<span id="cal-4131"></span>
=== Cal. 4131 ===
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic chronograph
|-
| introduction
| 2023
|-
| power reserve
| Approximately 72 hours
|-
| chronograph
| Column wheel and vertical clutch
|-
| escapement / shock
| Chronergy / Paraflex
|-
| documented fitment here
| Daytona 126500 and 2023-onward gold and platinum Daytona references
|}

Rolex introduced Cal. 4131 in 2023 as the successor to Cal. 4130. The movement keeps the column wheel and vertical clutch and adds the Chronergy escapement, Paraflex shock absorbers, a blue Parachrom hairspring and Rolex Côtes de Genève decoration. Rolex gives an approximately 72-hour reserve. [https://newsroom.rolex.com/watches/new-watches-2024/cosmograph-daytona Rolex Newsroom, Cosmograph Daytona]

<span id="cal-4132"></span>
=== Cal. 4132 ===
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic chronograph
|-
| introduction
| 2023
|-
| special function
| 24-hour elapsed-time counter
|-
| documented fitment here
| Daytona 126529LN, the Le Mans anniversary model
|}

Cal. 4132 is the 4131 derivative used in the Le Mans anniversary Daytona. Rolex describes it as allowing the chronograph to count elapsed hours over 24 rather than the usual 12. The official history page does not publish a separate technical specification table, so the 4131 family specifications should not be copied into 4132 without a movement-specific source. [https://www.rolex.com/en-us/watches/cosmograph-daytona/beyond-the-racetrack Rolex, Cosmograph Daytona history]

<span id="day-date-family"></span>
== Day-Date ==

Day-Date calibers form their own family. Four-digit references set both calendar displays through the hands; five-digit references introduced quickset.

<span id="cal-1055"></span>
=== Cal. 1055 ===
[[File:Cal 1055 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 1055, period parts-catalogue illustration, front and back|alt=Cal. 1055, period parts-catalogue illustration, front and back]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 25
|-
| frequency
| 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 42h
|-
| escapement
| Straight-line lever
|-
| balance
| Monometallic
|-
| shock
| KIF
|}

Cal. 1055 is documented in the first four-digit Day-Date references, from 1956 to 1959: refs. 6510, 6511, 6611, 6612 and 6613. Its rhodium-plated bridges carry oeil-de-perdrix ("partridge-eye") circular graining rather than Côtes de Genève. Documented examples were adjusted to temperature and five positions.

Reference histories commonly date the 6611 to 1957 and associate it with the second, chronometer-certified 1055 generation. Phillips lists caliber 1055 on its 1956 gold 6611 and 1055B on its 1958 white-gold 6611B; catalogues do not use the suffix consistently. The dial wording changes to “Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified.”

6612 catalogues such as [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080115/43 Phillips lot 43], [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/20747/lot/353/ Bonhams lot 353], and [https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-38/lot-67 Monaco Legend lot 67] show the same naming problem: Phillips (1958 platinum case 403,680), Bonhams (circa-1959 gold 6612/8), and Monaco Legend (1958 6612B examples) list Cal. 1055, while [https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/watches-online-dubai-edit/rolex-day-date-ref-6612b-extremely-rare-attractive-platinum-diamond-65/195872 Christie’s Dubai lot 65] uses B1055 and other catalogues use 1055B. Keep the calibre label attached to the specific watch and source; those descriptions do not establish that every 6612 retained its original movement.

For examples catalogued as 6612B, Monaco Legend lists Cal. 1055 on yellow-gold case 384,933, white-gold case 394,866 and platinum case 403,679. Phillips lists B1055 on platinum case 446,052; Christie's Dubai uses B1055 while listing the case as 446,062. Treat these as lot-specific catalogue labels. The Dubai case number conflicts with Phillips and Sotheby's, which both give 446,052. [https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-38/lot-182 Monaco Legend, lot 182]; [https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/index.php/auction/exclusive-timepieces-36/lot-26 Monaco Legend, lot 26]; [https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-38/lot-67 Monaco Legend, lot 67]; [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/151223 Phillips, lot 155]; [https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/watches-online-dubai-edit/rolex-day-date-ref-6612b-extremely-rare-attractive-platinum-diamond-65/195872 Christie's Dubai, lot 65].

The arrival of the free-sprung Microstella balance is disputed. The usual account places it with the 66xx revision, but an auction description identifies a first-generation 6511 as free-sprung. Neither generation has quickset or hacking.

Steel school-watch records create a separate problem: Antiquorum lists 1556 for a 2002 lot and 1066 for a 2013 lot, while Phillips describes later steel Day-Date prototypes with 1555-series movements. These are catalogue descriptions of disputed school/prototype watches, not confirmed 6611 production fitments. See [[Reference:6611|the 6611 record]] for the lot-level distinctions.

Auction catalogues also disagree on the movement fitted to ref. 6511. Phillips lists Cal. 1555 for case 111,654; Phillips lot 41, Antiquorum lot 81, Bonhams lot 156, and Monaco Legend lots 22 and 220 list Cal. 1055. The lot descriptions do not establish whether the 1555 label is a mistake or a later movement. Keep the attribution attached to the individual lot.

<span id="cal-1555"></span>
=== Cal. 1555 ===
[[File:Cal 1555 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 1555, rotor bridge detail|alt=Cal. 1555, rotor bridge detail]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 25
|-
| frequency
| 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 42h
|-
| size
| 7.03mm
|-
| escapement
| Swiss lever (Cal. 1530 train)
|-
| balance
| Free-sprung beryllium-bronze, Microstella screws
|-
| shock
| KIF Flector
|}

Cal. 1555 powered early four-digit Day-Dates, including the refs. 1803, 1804, 1806, 1807 and 1811, from 1959 to about 1967. It combines the day-and-date architecture of Cal. 1055 with the plate and most running components of Cal. 1530. Its distinct parts are concentrated in the motion and calendar work, some shared with the contemporary Datejust Cal. 1575.

The Swiss lever escapement comes from Cal. 1530 and uses KIF Flector protection. The free-sprung balance uses a Nivarox Breguet overcoil and screw-shaped Microstella adjusters. Rolex did not adopt the later nut-shaped Microstella components until 1983.

Cal. 1555 does not hack; unlike the 1972 revision of Cal. 1556, its parts list has no balance-stop spring. Wear in the mainspring-barrel bearing is a known fault. As the plate and bridge bores wear out of round, the barrel can tilt and reduce amplitude; Rolex supplied a replacement upper barrel bush for the repair.

Five stainless-steel Day-Dates are publicly known, none with a listed reference or case serial. Christie's records movement numbers 0004547, 0005073, DD411420, DD14749 and DD081221. Their casebacks are signed Rolex and stamped "Stainless Steel"; the known examples have French day discs, black hands and silvered dials, with provenance linked to former Rolex watchmakers. Christie's identifies them as workshop test pieces. Movement DD411420 is engraved 1555 but runs at the Cal. 1556 frequency of 19,800 vph, placing it between the two generations.

The prototype's jewel count is disputed. Antiquorum gives 25, matching the bridge signature, while Phillips gives 26, the figure for Cal. 1556. At 7.03mm, Cal. 1555 is the thickest member of the 1500 series. The stepped "pie-pan" dial remained in use until about 1970, outlasting the caliber.

<span id="cal-1556"></span>
=== Cal. 1556 ===
[[File:Cal 1556 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 1556|alt=Cal. 1556]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 26
|-
| frequency
| 19,800 vph (2.8 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 42h
|-
| escapement
| Swiss lever, 52° lift angle
|-
| shock
| KIF Flector, both balance pivots
|}

Cal. 1556 succeeded the 1555 around 1965 and powered the mid- and late four-digit Day-Date until 1977 or 1978. A revised gear train raised the frequency, while a jewel at the top of the centre wheel brought the count to 26. Its rhodium-plated movement has perlage finishing, a full balance bridge and a screwed balance with two gold, star-shaped Microstella regulating screws. Hacking was added during production in 1972 without a new caliber designation; earlier examples do not hack.

<span id="cal-1566"></span>
=== Cal. 1566 ===
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 26
|-
| escapement
| Straight-line lever
|-
| balance
| Monometallic, free-sprung Breguet spring
|}

Cal. 1566 was built for one case, the platinum [[Reference:1831|Day-Date 1831]] commissioned for the Shah of Iran and delivered from 1977. The rhodium-plated movement has a free-sprung Breguet hairspring, Microstella regulation and hacking. Sources record either eight or nine examples. One concordance assigns the ref. 1831 to Cal. 1556, while auction houses that examined the watches identify Cal. 1566.

<span id="cal-3055"></span>
=== Cal. 3055 ===
[[File:Cal 3055 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 3055, period parts-catalogue illustration with day-disc|alt=Cal. 3055, period parts-catalogue illustration with day-disc]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 27
|-
| frequency
| 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 48h
|-
| escapement
| Swiss lever
|-
| balance
| Free-sprung Glucydur, Microstella
|-
| shock
| KIF
|}

Cal. 3055 powered refs. 18038, 18039, 18048, 18049, 18078, 18079 and early 18238 in the 1977–1988 generation. It introduced quickset for the date, while the day still advanced through the motion of the hands. The balance cock provides the usual visual distinction from Cal. 3155, which uses a full transversal bridge. Common references give a height of 6.3mm, but Rolex's parts diagram specifies 7.11mm.

<span id="cal-3155"></span>
=== Cal. 3155 ===
[[File:Cal 3155 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 3155, engraved "3155," EmmyWatch|alt=Cal. 3155, engraved "3155," EmmyWatch]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 31
|-
| frequency
| 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 48h
|-
| balance
| Free-sprung Glucydur, Microstella
|-
| shock
| KIF Elastor
|}

Cal. 3155 replaced the 3055 in 1988 and remained in production through 2019. It added independent correction of the day, giving the Day-Date a double quickset for both calendar displays.

The added quickset works raised the jewel count from 27 to 31. Published height figures vary between 6.00 and 6.45mm, with no known Rolex document settling the discrepancy. As elsewhere in the 31xx family, a full bridge and larger balance wheel replaced the older balance cock.

The hairspring stud is laser-welded rather than glued as on Cals. 3035 and 3055. Parachrom arrived between 2008 and 2010 according to Grail Watch Reference, or by 2013 according to Watch Wiki. Cal. 3155 retained KIF Elastor throughout and never received Paraflex, which Rolex fitted to the Day-Date II's Cal. 3156.

<span id="cal-3156"></span>
=== Cal. 3156 ===
[[File:Cal 3156 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 3156, engraved "3156," Day-Date II official brochure image|alt=Cal. 3156, engraved "3156," Day-Date II official brochure image]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Automatic
|-
| jewels
| 31
|-
| frequency
| 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
|-
| power reserve
| 48h
|-
| size
| 30.97mm
|-
| escapement
| Swiss lever, 31xx family (pre-Chronergy)
|-
| balance
| Parachrom hairspring (3155 base)
|-
| regulator
| Free-sprung, gold Microstella nuts, traversing bridge
|-
| shock
| Paraflex
|}

Cal. 3156 is a widened Cal. 3155 derivative built for the 41mm Day-Date II from 2008 to 2015. It adds a Parachrom hairspring and Paraflex protection and powers the refs. 218238, 218239, 218206 and 218235. Its 30.97mm main plate carries the enlarged calendar wheels needed to move the date window outward. The same wider format appears on Cals. 3132, 3136 and 3187. Published specifications often give the standard 28.5mm width, but Rolex's promotional photography shows the additional flange recorded by Stephen Foskett's Grail Watch Reference.

Only the plate-and-bridge layer is oversized. The running train, escapement, keyless works and date mechanism use standard 31xx-family components, while structural parts such as the barrel bridge are shared with the wider Cals. 3132, 3136 and 3187 rather than the 3155.

The oscillator comes from Cal. 3155: a large free-sprung balance with gold Microstella nuts, a Breguet overcoil and a height-adjustable transversal bridge. Below it is the conventional Swiss lever escapement used across the 31xx family. Its 2015 successor, Cal. 3255, introduced the paramagnetic nickel-phosphorus Chronergy escapement. Rolex credits that design with a 15 per cent efficiency gain and about half of the increase from 48 to 70 hours of power reserve.

Cal. 3156 uses Paraflex shock protection; Cal. 3155 retains KIF Elastor. Rolex filed the design in 2005, and the European patent was granted in 2008. Its spring connects to the bearing body through four arms arranged around a central support, replacing the two-arm layout common to earlier systems. Rolex claims up to 50 per cent greater shock absorption than KIF; that is a manufacturer claim, not an independent test. [https://patents.google.com/patent/US7234859B2/en Rolex patent US7234859B2]

Cal. 3156 was confined to the 41mm Day-Date II. Rolex retired both in 2015, replacing them with the 40mm Day-Date and Cal. 3255, while the 36mm Cal. 3155 remained in production until 2019. Most Cal. 3156 watches carried the COSC −4/+6 seconds-per-day standard. Rolex adopted its −2/+2 rating in the caliber's final year, 2015.

<span id="oysterquartz-family"></span>
== Oysterquartz ==

Secondary collector references place total Oysterquartz production just under 25,000 watches, but no factory production total is cited here. The line followed the Beta 21-powered ref. 5100 of 1970, developed through the Centre Electronique Horloger consortium. The Beta 21 would not fit an Oyster case. Rolex left the consortium in 1972 and spent five years developing Cals. 5035 and 5055 in-house.

<span id="cal-5035"></span>
=== Cal. 5035 ===
[[File:Cal 5035 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 5035, engraved "5035," "11 ELEVEN JEWELS," "1.55V," EmmyWatch|alt=Cal. 5035, engraved "5035," "11 ELEVEN JEWELS," "1.55V," EmmyWatch]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Quartz
|-
| jewels
| 11
|-
| frequency
| 32,768 Hz crystal
|-
| drive
| Mobile-frame step-by-step motor, pallet fork, 1 beat/s
|-
| circuit
| C-MOS module: oscillator, binary divider, impulse amplifier
|-
| rate adjustment
| Trimmer, about 2 s/d total range
|-
| battery
| 1.55V silver-oxide, 24+ months
|-
| size
| 29.75mm diameter (29.00mm case-fitting), 6.35mm high
|}

Cal. 5035 powered Oysterquartz Datejust and Oyster Perpetual references, including the 17000, 17013 and 17014, from 1977 to 2001. Its date mechanism follows the same principle as the mechanical Cal. 3035 introduced in the same year.

Rolex calls the drive a mobile-frame step-by-step motor. Unlike a conventional quartz stepper, its coil moves while the magnets remain fixed. A polarised pulse swings the coil frame once per second, and a finger on the frame drives a pallet fork connected directly to the seconds wheel. The pallet locks the wheel between pulses. Its audible tick comes from that engagement and sounds closer to a mechanical escapement than a conventional quartz motor.

The C-MOS module contains the oscillator, a binary divider that reduces 32,768 Hz to one pulse per second, and the motor's impulse amplifier. A trimmer provides a total adjustment range of about two seconds per day. Rolex specified regulation to ±0.05 seconds per day at about 28°C.

Temperature compensation remains uncertain. Secondary accounts describe a thermocompensated oscillator with a thermistor, but Rolex's technical document mentions neither. It instead shows a parabolic rate curve with an inversion point at 26 ±2°C and specifies adjustment near the 28°C temperature of a worn watch. The document may predate a later revision, but it does not support the usual thermistor claim.

Rolex specified accuracy within one minute per year under normal wear and battery life beyond 24 months. The movement draws no more than 9 microamps, of which the electronics use at most 3. There is no battery end-of-life indication; erratic running is the warning. Hacking cuts current to the motor, and the seconds hand restarts one second after the crown returns to its running position.

The electronic module and motor are sensitive to contamination, and the mobile-frame pivots run dry. Rolex supplied the motor only as a complete unit rather than as separate components.

<span id="cal-5055"></span>
=== Cal. 5055 ===
[[File:Cal 5055 movement.webp|thumb|right|220px|Cal. 5055, engraved "5055," "11 ELEVEN JEWELS," EmmyWatch|alt=Cal. 5055, engraved "5055," "11 ELEVEN JEWELS," EmmyWatch]]
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;"
! detail
! value
|-
| type
| Quartz
|-
| jewels
| 11
|-
| frequency
| 32,768 Hz crystal
|-
| drive
| Mobile-frame step-by-step motor, pallet fork, 1 beat/s
|-
| circuit
| C-MOS module: oscillator, binary divider, impulse amplifier
|-
| rate adjustment
| Trimmer, about 2 s/d total range
|-
| battery
| 1.55V silver-oxide, 24+ months
|-
| size
| 29.75mm diameter (29.00mm case-fitting), 7.11mm high
|}

Cal. 5055 is the Day-Date counterpart to Cal. 5035. The two share their motor and electronic module, while the 5055's calendar follows the principle of the mechanical Cal. 3055. Its day-disc stack increases the height from 6.35 to 7.11mm.

Catalogue descriptions treat Cal. 5055 as COSC-certified from early production. The exact certification and crystal changeover dates for Cal. 5055 and Cal. 5035 are not settled in the sources reviewed, so early Oysterquartz dial text should be checked against the individual watch.

Cal. 5055 adds the day mechanism and its stricter tolerances. Rolex specified hour-wheel endshake below 0.03mm and calendar change within two minutes of midnight. The day disc is a separate replaceable part, allowing the display language to be changed without altering the movement.

Cal. 5055 powers the yellow-gold [[Reference:19018|ref. 19018]], white-gold [[Reference:19019|ref. 19019]] and pyramid-bezel [[Reference:19028|ref. 19028]]. Claims about cancelled successor calibers are omitted because the cited factory material does not document them.

<span id="prince-appendix"></span>
== Related but not Rolex ==

Gruen Cal. 877 and the Bubbleback-era "9¾ ligne" description are often misidentified as Rolex calibers. Gruen's Cal. 877, used in the Techni-Quadron, is an Aegler-built architectural sibling of Cal. 300 sold under Gruen's name in the United States. It was never a Rolex commercial number. A Bubbleback-era "9¾ ligne" description records only the movement's size class, not a distinct caliber designation. The three circa-1940 Christie’s ref. 3064 catalogues reviewed for this audit use the same size-class wording and do not name a caliber; keep the 3064 movement attribution tied to those lot descriptions.

== Sources ==

* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080115/40 Phillips, 2015, ref. 6511 case 111,654, movement listed as 1555]
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080115/41 Phillips, 2015, ref. 6511 case 134,692, movement listed as 1055]
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080115/50 Phillips, 2015, 6611 case 214,124, caliber 1055]
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080515/154 Phillips, 2015, 6611B case 401,546, caliber 1055B]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-31-37 Antiquorum, 2002, steel school watch catalogued as 6611, caliber 1556]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-6611-lot-278-573 Antiquorum, 2013, steel school watch catalogued as 6611, caliber 1066]
* [https://www.phillips.com/article/86237716/four-prototype-watches-from-the-geneva-watch-auction-xiv Phillips, 2021, steel Day-Date prototype account]

* [https://www.christies.com/lot/lot-5195914 Christie’s, lot 52: 8171 case 685878, A.295 CPL]
* [https://www.fratellowatches.com/a-few-complicated-rolex-watches-from-the-archives/ Giorgia Mondani, Fratello, 2020: case construction and calendar correctors]
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6185890 Christie’s: 6062 case 916321, caliber 655]

* [https://watchdoctor.biz/movements-and-calibers/ Watch Doctor: movements and calibers chart. Secondary compilation; no underlying Rolex document identified.]
* [https://www.incabloc.ch/en/history/ Incabloc: company history, production in 1933 and lyre-spring development in 1938.]
* [https://www.vrfm.io/Scans/TECHNICAL-SERVICE-INFO-3RD-EDITION-1978.pdf Rolex: Technical and Service Information, third edition, pp. 3 and 7; scan hosted by the Vintage Rolex Field Manual.]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2025/important-watches-part-i-ge2504/the-companion-oyster-mercedes-gleitze-rolex-oyster Sotheby’s Geneva 2025, lot 134: Gleitze Oyster and its upgraded movement.]
* [https://www.cosc.swiss/terms-conditions COSC: organization established in 1973.]
* [https://www.rolex.com/en-us/watch-care-and-service/the-rolex-servicing-procedure Rolex: examination and estimate before servicing.]

* [https://www.rolex.com/watchmaking/features/movements/perpetual-rotor Rolex: Perpetual rotor], mechanism introduced in 1931; caliber not specified.
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-32-486 Antiquorum Geneva, 16 November 2002, lot 486], ref. 4467 catalogued with Cal. 740 and a date display.
* [https://newsroom.rolex.com/watches/oyster-collection/explorer Rolex: Explorer history], return to 36mm in 2021.
* [https://media.rolex.com/rolexcom/media/user-guides/gmt-master-ii/rolex_gmt-master-ii_en-us Rolex GMT-Master II user guide], date linked to the independently adjustable local-hour hand.
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2023/important-watches-part-i/gmt-master-captain-warren-reference-6542-an-advert Sotheby's, circa-1958 6542, calibre 1030]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/fine-watches-4/reference-6542-gmt-master-a-stainless-steel Sotheby's, circa-1959 6542, case 451'698, calibre 1066]
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5841779 Christie's, circa-1959 gold 6542, case 486'469, calibre 1065]

* [https://revolutionwatch.com/a-movement-in-history-the-zenith-driven-rolex-daytona/ Revolution — A Movement in History: The Zenith-driven Rolex Daytona] (Ross Povey, 2018)
* [https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-vintage-watch-nerds-critical-dissection-of-the-rolex-daytona-past-to-present-part-1-3 Hodinkee — A Vintage Watch Nerd's Critical Dissection of the Rolex Daytona, Part 1] (Paul Boutros, 2012)
* [https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-vintage-watch-nerds-critical-dissection-of-the-rolex-daytona-past-to-present-pt-23 Hodinkee — A Vintage Watch Nerd's Critical Dissection of the Rolex Daytona, Part 2] (Paul Boutros, 2013)
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/history-rolex-daytona-chronograph-1963-in-depth-review/ Monochrome — In-Depth: The History of the Rolex Daytona] (Erik Slaven, 2024)
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/rolex-submariner-history-part-1-the-early-references/ Monochrome — History of the Rolex Submariner, Part 1] (Tom Mulraney, 2020)
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/rolex-submariner-history-part-2-the-55xx-1680references/ Monochrome — History of the Rolex Submariner, Part 2] (Tom Mulraney, 2020)
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/history-rolex-gmt-master-and-gmt-master-ii-1955-2024-iconic-traveller-watch-in-depth-review/ Monochrome — In-Depth: The History of the Rolex GMT-Master and GMT-Master II]
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/history-rolex-explorer-from-1953-36mm-1016-14270-114270-214270-124270-in-depth-review/ Monochrome — The History of the Rolex Explorer] (Frank Geelen, 2024)
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/history-rolex-explorer-ii-adventure-watch-gmt-1655-16550-16570-216570-226570-in-depth/ Monochrome — In-Depth: The History of the Rolex Explorer II]
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/rolex-explorer-14270-perfect-youngtimer-watch-vintage-corner/ Monochrome — Youngtimer Case Study, the Rolex Explorer 14270] (Frank Geelen, 2020)
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/rolex-explorer-214270-vs-previous-214270-review-history-rolex-explorer/ Monochrome — Rolex Explorer 214270 In-Depth Review] (Brice Goulard, 2016)
* [https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-explorer-reference-points Hodinkee — A Comprehensive Collector's Guide To The Rolex Explorer I] (Jon Bues, 2022)
* [https://www.watchtime.com/brands/watches/tracking-the-rolex-daytona-a-53-year-history WatchTime — Tracking the Rolex Daytona: A 55-Year History]
* [https://revolutionwatch.com/rolex-john-player-special-paul-newman-daytona-ref-6241/ Revolution — The Rolex "John Player Special" Paul Newman Daytona Ref. 6241] (Bob Ridley, 2017)
* [https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/rolex-pre-daytona-forgotten-classic A Collected Man — Is the Rolex Pre-Daytona a Forgotten Classic?] (Russell Sheldrake, 2020)
* [https://www.fratellowatches.com/why-i-bought-the-rolex-cosmograph-daytona-reference-116520/ Fratello — Why I Bought The Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Reference 116520] (Ben Hodges, 2021)
* [https://www.fratellowatches.com/rolex-submariner-14060m/ Fratello — Rolex Submariner 14060M Review]
* [https://www.fratellowatches.com/rolex-submariner-114060-review/ Fratello — Rolex Submariner 114060 Review] (2019)
* [https://www.fratellowatches.com/ceramic-bezel-close-up-of-the-rolex-gmt-master-ii-ref-116710ln/ Fratello — Ceramic Bezel close-up of the Rolex GMT-Master II ref. 116710LN]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2018/important-watches-n09952/lot.252.html Sotheby's — Submariner Ref 6536/1, Stainless Steel Automatic With Bracelet, Circa 1957]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/buy/25e5416b-f436-484a-834e-1ba10a9dfc69/lots/9a553d3f-0450-465f-b767-7f1946a7bfc0 Sotheby's — Submariner Ref. 6538, Stainless Steel With 4-Line Tropical Dial, Circa 1958]
* [https://calibercorner.com Caliber Corner — per-caliber technical database]
* [https://wiki.grail-watch.com/index.php/Rolex_630 Grail Watch Wiki — Rolex 630]
* [https://www.emmywatch.com EmmyWatch — vintage restoration movement photography]
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/complete-history-of-the-rolex-milgauss/ Monochrome — Complete History of the Rolex Milgauss]
* [https://www.robbreport.com/style/watch-collector/most-expensive-rolex-watches-ever-sold-at-auction/ Robb Report — The Most Expensive Rolex Watches Ever Sold at Auction] (Sotheby's Mercedes Gleitze Oyster, November 2025)
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss Antiquorum — auction lot catalogue]
* [https://www.christies.com Christie's — auction lot catalogue]
* [https://www.sothebys.com Sotheby's — auction lot catalogue]
* [https://www.watch-wiki.net Watch Wiki — reference concordance]
* [http://www.vrfm.io/Scans/CALIBER-5035-5055-TECHNICAL-INFORMATION.pdf Montres Rolex SA — ''Technical Information No. 13: Calibre 5035 / Calibre 5055''] (factory service documentation, scan hosted by ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'')
* [https://www.oysterquartz.net/the_5035_movement.htm Oysterquartz.net — the 5035/5055 movement]
* [https://www.rolex.com/watchmaking/features/movements/reversing-wheels Rolex — Reversing Wheels, Watchmaking Features] (red anodised-aluminium finish, introduced 1957)
* [https://newsroom-content.rolex.com/-/media/project/rolex/newsroom/rolex/rolex-newsroom-int/2024/brochures/features/en/02_rolex_superlative_english_2024.pdf Rolex — ''Superlative Chronometer Certification: Redefining Performance''] (brochure, 2024; certification redefined 2015)
* [https://patents.google.com/patent/US6503341B2/en Patent US6503341B2 — Self-compensating spiral for a spiral balance-wheel] (Montres Rolex SA; Jacques Baur and Patrick Sol; priority 1999, granted 2003 — the Parachrom hairspring)
* [https://patents.google.com/patent/US7234859B2/en Patent US7234859B2 / EP1705537 — Shock-absorbing bearing for a timepiece] (Montres Rolex SA; Mitchell Colle and Roman Voirol; priority 2005 — Paraflex)
* [https://watchesbysjx.com/2021/08/rolex-parachrom-hairspring-explained.html SJX Watches — Explained: The Rolex Parachrom Hairspring] (Nb-Zr alloy, anodised oxide layer, frequency shift)
* [https://reference.grail-watch.com/movement/rolex-3136/ Grail Watch Reference — Rolex Cal. 3136] (Stephen Foskett; Paraflex fitted to the 3136 and not to the base 3135)
* [https://calibercorner.com/rolex-caliber-3131/ Caliber Corner — Rolex Caliber 3131] (Kif on the 3131, Paraflex on the 3132)
* [http://www.superlativetime.com/identification-of-rolex-calibres Superlative Time — Identification of Rolex Calibres 1520–1580] (balance-bridge forms 1–4; Kif Flector and Kif Elastor assignment)
* [https://mb.nawcc.org/threads/regulate-rolex-1520.160574/ NAWCC message board — Regulate Rolex 1520] (watchmakers on the inertia-block system and the free-sprung misreading)
* [https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/vintagerolexforum/history-of-1530-movement-t23616.html Vintage Rolex Forum — History of the 1530 movement] (introduction c.1957, butterfly rotor, chronometer status)
* [https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/28412-rolex-3135-510-drive-wheel-for-ratchet-appears-to-be-worn-not-winding-watch-enough/ Watch Repair Talk — Rolex 3135-510 ratchet drive wheel wear]
* ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' — Colin A. White, Morning Tundra

* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-6075-lot-283-107 Antiquorum Geneva, 2014, ref. 6075 case 714441]: catalogued as A.295, with a 10½-ligne description.
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080515/284 Phillips Geneva, 2015, ref. 6075 case 714440]: catalogued as A.296, 18 jewels.
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6042730 Christie’s, ref. 6075 case 699455]: catalogued as A.295.

Reference:unicorn-daytona

2026-09-29T10:22:42Z

Klaudiusz: Deep audit: remove gallery heading and promotional wording

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex "Unicorn" Daytona 6265}}
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex unicorn-daytona — Production, Dial Variants, Serial Ranges | Rolexopedia
|description=The Rolex Cosmograph Daytona 6265 known as the Unicorn: an 18k white-gold case, case 2877587, and a disputed 2018 auction configuration. Phillips described it as a one-off delivered in 1971; Perezcope's 2022 dossier questions the coherence of the later assembly.
|keywords=Unicorn Daytona, Unicorn 6265, white gold 6265, Rolex Unicorn, Phillips Daytona Ultimatum, Perezcope Unicorn Frankenstein, Goldberger Unicorn, CHF 5,937,500
|image=Ref 6265 unicorn-hero.webp
|image_alt=The Unicorn 6265 — 18k white-gold manual-wind Daytona presented at Phillips Daytona Ultimatum 2018
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|published_time=2026-04-19T14:53:15Z
|modified_time=2026-07-18T14:18:46Z
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
}}

<small>[[Reference:daytona|Daytona]] -> [[Reference:6265|6265]] -> '''Unicorn'''</small>

<div class="rp-lead">[[File:Ref 6265 unicorn-hero.webp|thumb|center|640px|alt=Rolex 6265 presented as the Unicorn at Phillips Daytona Ultimatum 2018|Rolex 6265 presented as the Unicorn at Phillips Daytona Ultimatum 2018.]]</div>

== The Unicorn (Daytona 6265 in 18k white gold) ==
Phillips catalogued the Unicorn as a one-off 18k white-gold [[Reference:6265|6265]], case 2877587, circa 1970, and described it as the only known vintage white-gold Daytona at the 2018 sale. Its catalogue account says it was delivered to a German retailer in 1971. Perezcope's 2022 article disputes the coherence of the watch as sold, arguing that the dial, bezel, pushers, and movement should be treated as a later assembly of mixed parts. The page records both accounts without presenting the “only known” description as a production census.

== What the Unicorn is ==

The catalogue record identifies four features of the offered watch: an 18k white-gold case, case number 2877587, a stated 1970 manufacture date with 1971 delivery, and a black Sigma dial. The case and delivery details come from Phillips's account. The dial's fitment is disputed because Perezcope dates the relevant Sigma printing to later serial ranges.

== The Phillips sale (12 May 2018) ==

Phillips Daytona Ultimatum was a 32-watch thematic sale curated by Pucci Papaleo with Aurel Bacs at the rostrum. The Unicorn was Lot 8. Phillips's lot essay framed the watch as the authentic sole white gold 6265; the catalogue and condition report disclosed the bracelet swap and said nothing about the dial, pushers, or bezel. The watch hammered at CHF 4,750,000, and the 25 percent buyer's premium Phillips applied in Geneva brought the all-in price to CHF 5,937,500 — about USD 5.9M at prevailing exchange.

[[File:Ref 6265 unicorn-white-gold-phillips.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=White-gold Rolex 6265 Unicorn as presented by Phillips in 2018|The white-gold 6265 configuration presented at Phillips in 2018.]]

Phillips reported the result as the second-highest price for a Rolex wristwatch at that sale, behind Paul Newman's 6239 ([[Reference:paul-newman-daytona|USD 17,752,500 at Phillips Winning Icons, October 2017]]). That ranking is historical auction context, not evidence of originality or a market-wide value for white-gold 6265 watches.

== Ownership history ==

The following sequence is the account given in Phillips's lot material and John Goldberger's interview; independent ownership records are not published for every step:

* Manufactured 1970, Rolex Geneva
* Delivered 1971 to a German retailer, sold to a first retail buyer
* Surfaced in collector circulation in the 2000s
* Acquired by John Goldberger (Auro Montanari, Italian collector and author of ''100 Superlative Rolex Watches'')
* Held by Goldberger through the 2010s; service work documented in period including the Sigma dial swap cited in Phillips's essay
* Consigned to Phillips, May 2018
* Sold to a private buyer at the 2018 sale; ownership since has not been publicly re-surfaced

== The Perezcope dispute (December 2022) ==

Jose Pereztroika's December 2022 dossier for Perezcope, "Rolex Daytona 6265 The Unicorn Frankenstein plot", disputes the Unicorn's authenticity as presented at Phillips. It rests on four lines of evidence.

=== 2010 Newoldschlock Instagram photographs ===

An anonymous Instagram account, "newoldschlock", posted 2010 photographs of case 2877587, the same white gold 6265 case the Unicorn carries, wearing a different dial, different pushers, and a different bezel from what appeared at Phillips in 2018. In the 2010 images the case has a steel tachymetre bezel, steel screw-down pushers, and a black dial without Sigma markings. The 2018 configuration carries a white gold bezel, millerighe-knurled white gold pushers, and a Sigma dial. It differs on all three points.

Perezcope reads the photographs as evidence that the 2018 configuration differed from the one photographed in 2010. The account was posted on 11 May 2018, one day before the sale.

[[File:Ref 6265 unicorn-perezcope-counter.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=Comparison image used in the Perezcope Unicorn analysis|Comparison image used in Perezcope's analysis; it illustrates the parts and configuration differences he describes.]] Phillips then published a Goldberger interview in which he described the dial, pushers, and bezel as incorrect replacements that he had sourced to restore the watch. The timing and meaning of that disclosure are part of Perezcope's critique; the page does not infer intent beyond the published record.

=== Millerighe pusher forensics ===

Perezcope argues that the 2018 white-gold millerighe pushers differ in shape, chamfer, knurling, and finishing from the comparison parts he treats as original. He interprets those differences as evidence of later fabrication. No Rolex service record or independent metallurgical examination establishing that conclusion is published with the auction lot.

=== Sigma dial chronology ===

Perezcope's database places the first Sigma Daytona dials he has documented around case number 3.0 million and the later Mark 2 form around 3.5 million. On that chronology, the dial fitted at the Phillips sale post-dates case 2877587. That is Perezcope's serial-and-dial argument; the auction record does not include a Rolex factory document fixing a universal Sigma introduction point.

=== Cal 727 movement stamp ===

Perezcope also points to the movement's hyphenated “7-2-7” stamp and compares it with nearby 727 movements carrying a different stamp style. He treats that mismatch as evidence of mixed parts. The comparison is an argument about the photographed movement, not a published Rolex service finding.

== Phillips's position and Goldberger's framing ==

The dial, pushers, and bezel never appeared in Phillips's catalogue or condition report, which disclosed the bracelet swap alone. They surfaced in the Goldberger interview Phillips published on 11 May 2018, an account that positioned the Unicorn as an authentic Rolex carrying replacements Goldberger had sourced during his ownership.

Goldberger's published account treats the case as an authentic 18k white-gold Rolex and the dial, bezel, and pushers as replacement parts sourced for restoration. Phillips presented the watch as the only known vintage white-gold Daytona. Those statements establish how the seller and auction house framed the lot; they do not settle whether every fitted component is period-correct.

Perezcope's counter is that an authentic case does not establish a coherent original watch. He treats the pushers, Sigma dial, and movement stamp as mismatched. “Frankenstein” is his characterization of the 2018 assembly, not a settled classification by Rolex or an independent authentication body.

== Why the dispute matters ==

The Phillips result remains a record of what that lot sold for. It does not establish a price guide for other white-gold 6265 claims, and the authenticity dispute remains separate from the sale result. Similar forensic disputes sit on two other high-value Daytona variants, the [[Reference:albino-daytona|Albino 6263]] and the [[Reference:6240|Neanderthal 6240]], with Perezcope as the consistent second voice raising post-sale forensic questions.

== Relation to other 6265 variants ==

The Unicorn is one of several rare precious-metal 6265 configurations:

* 18k white gold (the Unicorn): the single example presented by Phillips in 2018.
* 18k yellow gold and 14k yellow gold: separate precious-metal executions documented in auction and reference records.
* Platinum and Lemon-dial claims: assess each watch from its own case, dial, movement, and provenance record.

== Related references ==
* [[Reference:daytona|Daytona family index]]
* [[Reference:6265|Daytona 6265]]: host reference with Paul Newman variants, the Sultan of Oman Khanjar, Lemon dials, and retailer-signed examples.
* [[Reference:paul-newman-daytona|Paul Newman Daytona]]: the adjacent exotic-dial category.
* [[Reference:albino-daytona|Albino Daytona]]: a separate disputed manual-wind variant.
* [[Reference:daytona-glossary|Daytona glossary]]: definitions for named variants.

<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
Ref 6265 unicorn-hero.webp|The Unicorn 6265 as presented at Phillips
Ref 6265 unicorn-white-gold-phillips.webp|White-gold 6265 auction configuration
Ref 6265 unicorn-perezcope-counter.webp|Perezcope comparison image
</gallery>

== Sources ==
* [https://www.phillips.com/article/42015509/made-for-racing-rolex-and-the-daytona Made for Racing: Rolex and the Daytona] — Phillips, 2018
* [https://perezcope.com/2022/12/31/rolex-daytona-6265-the-unicorn-frankenstein-plot/ Rolex Daytona 6265 The Unicorn Frankenstein Plot] — Jose Pereztroika, Perezcope, December 2022
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080318/8 Phillips Geneva, Daytona Ultimatum, lot 8 catalogue essay and result], 12 May 2018
* [https://watchesbysjx.com Preview: Phillips Daytona Ultimatum picks] — SJX, 2018
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/articles/vintage-rolex-daytona-the-gold-standard Vintage Rolex Daytona: The Gold Standard] — Karyn Orrico, Sotheby's, 2024
* [https://www.phillips.com/auction/CH080318/overview Phillips, Daytona Ultimatum overview, 12 May 2018]

[[Category:Daytona]]
[[Category:Daytona Manual-Wind]]
[[Category:Disputed variant]]

Reference:216570

2026-09-29T10:21:58Z

Klaudiusz: Deep audit: remove repeated SAS dating passage

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex 216570 Explorer II}}
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Explorer II 216570 — 42mm Calibre 3187 Reference Guide | Rolexopedia
|description=Rolex Explorer II 216570 (2011–2021): 42mm Oystersteel case, calibre 3187, black and Polar dials, orange 24-hour hand, documented SAS and UK Attack Helicopter Force commissions.
|keywords=Rolex, Explorer II, 216570, calibre 3187, Polar dial, 42mm, Oystersteel
|image=Ref 216570 hero.webp
|image_alt=Rolex Explorer II 216570 with white Polar dial
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|published_time=2026-04-30T03:29:11Z
|modified_time=2026-09-24T04:43:00Z
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
}}

<small>[[Reference:explorer-ii|Explorer II]] → '''216570'''</small>

<div class="rp-lead">
[[File:Ref 216570 hero.webp|thumb|center|640px|alt=Rolex Explorer II 216570 white Polar dial, with half-orange 24-hour hand|Rolex Explorer II reference 216570, white Polar dial.]]
</div>

Rolex introduced the Explorer II reference 216570 at Baselworld in 2011 for the line’s 40th anniversary. Its 42mm Oystersteel case and calibre 3187 replaced the 40mm reference 16570. Rolex offered black and white dials; the model returned an orange 24-hour hand, with a black-painted base, after the red hand used on the 16550 and 16570. The 226570 replaced it in 2021.

==Core facts==

{| class="wikitable rp-facts"
|-
! detail
! specification
|-
| production
| 2011–2021
|-
| case
| 42mm Oystersteel (904L steel family)
|-
| movement
| calibre 3187, automatic, 31 jewels, 28,800 vph
|-
| power reserve
| approximately 48 hours in Rolex’s reference brochure
|-
| functions
| local hour hand with independent one-hour setting, 24-hour hand, date, stop-seconds
|-
| bezel
| fixed steel, graduated for 24 hours
|-
| crystal
| scratch-resistant sapphire with Cyclops over the date
|-
| water resistance
| 100m / 330ft
|-
| dial
| black or white; Chromalight display
|-
| bracelet
| Oystersteel Oyster bracelet, Oysterlock clasp, Easylink 5mm extension
|}

==Where it sits in the line==

The 216570 increased the Explorer II case diameter from 40mm on the 16570 to 42mm. It kept the fixed steel 24-hour bezel and independent local-hour setting. The orange hand returned in a two-tone form: its black-painted base creates the “phantom” effect described by James Robinson in his 2020 review. Rolex’s reference brochure says the 24-hour display distinguishes day from night; with the local hour hand set independently, the watch can also show a second time zone.

The 226570 kept the 42mm case and changed the movement to calibre 3285, with a 70-hour reserve. Its bracelet is 22mm wide at the lugs, compared with 21mm on the 216570. The 2021 successor also added an anti-reflective coating to the crystal and Cyclops. The white-dial model changed from black-lacquered hands and markers to white-gold matte PVD; the black-dial model received fully polished hands. These are the clearest documented differences between the two generations.

==Production outline==

Rolex’s history dates the 216570 to 2011 and its successor to 2021. The reference ran with the calibre 3187 throughout. Published catalogues show black- and white-dial examples, but the records reviewed here do not establish detailed dial-production boundaries or a mid-run technical change.

Some auction catalogues give 216570 watches a circa-2010 date. That estimate predates the documented 2011 launch. Sotheby’s 2021 SAS lot is especially clear about the disagreement: its heading dates the watch circa 2010, while the catalogue note says Rolex issued the special-order series in 2012. Auction catalogues report estimates rather than serial-based production dates.

==Movement notes==

Calibre 3187 is an automatic movement used in the 216570 from launch through its replacement. Rolex’s reference brochure lists a blue Parachrom hairspring, Paraflex shock absorbers, independent rapid-setting of the local hour hand, stop-seconds, and a power reserve of approximately 48 hours. It gives a post-casing precision of −2/+2 seconds per day and identifies the watch as a Superlative Chronometer. Auction catalogues confirm 31 jewels; published movement references list 28,800 vph. Rolex’s brochure is the source for the 48-hour figure; the Movements page records other publications that round it to 50 hours.

Turning the crown in the setting position moves the local hour hand in one-hour steps without stopping the 24-hour hand. The date changes as the local hour passes midnight. This is the second-time-zone function introduced to the Explorer II line with the 16550 and calibre 3085.

==Dial map==

The 216570 was offered with black or white dials. Collectors commonly call the white version “Polar.” Both use enlarged applied hour markers and Mercedes hands, a date at three under a Cyclops, and blue-glowing Chromalight. The white dial has black surrounds around its luminous plots; the black dial uses white-gold markers. The 24-hour hand is orange with a black-painted base. The available catalogues show both dial colours but do not establish separate production runs or a change in dial specification during the decade.

<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
File:Ref 216570 dial-black.webp|Black dial, half-orange 24-hour hand and enlarged markers
File:Ref 216570 dial-polar-detail.webp|Polar dial detail, black-lacquered hands and black marker surrounds
File:Ref 216570 dial-polar-front.webp|Polar dial, front view with Oyster bracelet
</gallery>

==Case, bezel, crystal, and crown==

The Oystersteel case measures 42mm across. Rolex describes the alloy as part of the 904L steel family. The caseback and Twinlock crown screw down; Rolex rates the watch to 100 metres. The steel bezel is fixed and marked for 24 hours. A flat sapphire crystal covers the dial, with a Cyclops lens over the date. The 216570 does not have the anti-reflective coating that Rolex added to the 226570 in 2021.

The case profile and closed caseback are shown below. Engraving on a particular caseback identifies that watch’s commission or owner; it is not a standard production mark.

<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
File:Ref 216570 case-side.webp|42mm Oyster case, Twinlock crown and graduated bezel
File:Ref 216570 caseback.webp|Closed Oyster caseback
</gallery>

==Bracelet and clasp==

The bracelet is Oystersteel with an Oysterlock folding clasp and Easylink comfort extension, which adds about 5mm. Rolex’s 216570 brochure specifies flat three-piece links and Easylink. A Christie’s 2018 catalogue records one bracelet stamped 77210 with end links marked 455. The catalogue documents this configuration for one watch. The later 226570 uses a 22mm bracelet at the lugs; the 216570 is 21mm.

==Special commissions==

===UK Attack Helicopter Force===

Sotheby’s records a 48-watch UK Attack Helicopter Force commission, ordered in 2014. Its 2019 lot is No. 2/48, a white-dial example with an Apache and Union Jack engraved on the caseback. The catalogue says No. 2 was offered to the force’s longest-serving member, then its Senior Flying Instructor. The watch came with a guarantee card dated December 2015. Those details describe the auctioned example and the commission; they do not establish a general issue date for every 216570.

[[File:Ref 216570 uk-apache.webp|thumb|right|280px|alt=216570 UK Attack Helicopter Force No. 2 of 48|The No. 2/48 example catalogued by Sotheby’s, with its unit engraving.]]

===Special Air Service===

Christie’s documents a 216570 specially commissioned for the SAS in 2012. Its white-dial example has a 2012 guarantee and the “Who Dares Wins” engraving. Sotheby’s also describes a 2012 SAS order and catalogs a black-dial example with a winged-dagger badge and owner identifiers. The Sotheby’s title dates that watch circa 2010, while its catalogue note records a 2012 issue; Christie’s records a matching 2012 guarantee. The circa-2010 figure is an outlier among these catalogue dates.

[[File:Ref 216570 sas-issued.webp|thumb|right|280px|alt=216570 SAS special-order example|SAS special-order example, with the unit badge and owner identifiers on the caseback.]]

==Related references==

* [[Reference:16570|Explorer II 16570]] — 1989–2011
* [[Reference:16550|Explorer II 16550]] — 1985–1989
* [[Reference:1655|Explorer II 1655]] — 1971–1984

==Auction record==

These selected catalogues document standard black- and white-dial examples and two unit commissions. The table lists auction-house estimates; catalogued “circa” dates are estimates rather than manufacture records. One Sotheby’s catalogue date predates the documented launch year.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Auction catalogue
! Watch/date
! Estimate
! Notes
|-
| [https://www.christies.com.cn/en/lot/rolex-a-stainless-steel-automatic-dual-time-6166950 Christie’s, Rare Watches, 2018, lot 86]
| White dial; circa 2011
| Not listed here
| Catalogue records calibre 3187, 42mm case, and guarantee card dated 10 October 2011; bracelet marked 77210 / 455
|-
| [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2019/watches-online-8/rolex-explorer-ii-uk-attack-helicopter-force Sotheby’s, Watches Online, December 2019, lot 2]
| White dial; circa 2015
| £12,000–18,000
| UK Attack Helicopter Force, No. 2/48; guarantee card dated December 2015
|-
| [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2020/watches-online/rolex-ref-216570-explorer-ii-a-stainless-steel Sotheby’s, Watches Online, 2020, lot 138]
| Black dial; circa 2010
| $7,000–9,000
| Catalogue names calibre 3187 and 31 jewels; circa date predates the documented launch
|-
| [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2021/fine-watches-including-masterworks-of-time-collectors-watches/sas-explorer-ii-ref-216570-stainless-steel Sotheby’s, Fine Watches, November 2021, lot 2]
| Black dial; circa 2010; catalogue says SAS issue in 2012
| £17,000–28,000
| Sotheby’s also cites a £35,000 hammer for another SAS example; this lot’s result is not shown.
|-
| [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2023/fine-watches-2/reference-216570-explorer-ii-a-stainless-steel Sotheby’s, Fine Watches, June 2023, lot 246]
| White dial; circa 2015
| $8,000–12,000
| Calibre 3187, 31 jewels, 42mm case
|-
| [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2026/fine-watches/reference-216570-explorer-ii-a-stainless-steel Sotheby’s, Fine Watches, June 2026, lot 394]
| White dial; circa 2020
| $6,000–9,000
| The page shows the estimate; viewing the result requires sign-in.
|}

<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
File:Ref 216570 hero.webp|Full view of the white-dial Explorer II 216570
File:Ref 216570 dial-polar-front.webp|White dial and Oyster bracelet
File:Ref 216570 dial-black.webp|Black-dial version
File:Ref 216570 case-side.webp|Case profile, Twinlock crown and fixed bezel
File:Ref 216570 caseback.webp|Closed caseback
File:Ref 216570 uk-apache.webp|UK Attack Helicopter Force No. 2/48 commission
File:Ref 216570 sas-issued.webp|SAS special-order example
</gallery>

== Sources ==

* [https://content.rolex.com/dam/media/brochures/explorer/m216570-0001.pdf Rolex, "Explorer II, reference 216570 — official brochure", Rolex]
* [https://www.rolex.com/watches/explorer/real-world-laboratory Rolex, "Explorer and Explorer II: a real-world laboratory", Rolex]
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/history-rolex-explorer-ii-adventure-watch-gmt-1655-16550-16570-216570-226570-in-depth/ Erik Slaven, "In-Depth: The History of the Rolex Explorer II, The Ultimate Adventure Watch", Monochrome, 2024-12-17]
* [https://timeandtidewatches.com/rolex-explorer-ii-review-reference-216570-42mm/ James Robinson, "In-Depth: The Rolex Explorer II Ref. 216570 Review", Time+Tide, 2020-05-01]
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/2021-rolex-explorer-ii-226570-first-look-hands-on-price/ Brice Goulard, "First Impressions: The 2021 Rolex Explorer II 226570", Monochrome, 2021-04-07]
* [https://www.fratellowatches.com/rolex-explorer-ii-the-40-year-evolution-of-an-understatement/ "Rolex Explorer II — The 40-Year Evolution Of An Understatement", Fratello, 2021-04-29]
* [https://www.christies.com.cn/en/lot/rolex-a-stainless-steel-automatic-dual-time-6166950/?intObjectID=6166950&lid=1 "Rolex Explorer II ref. 216570, case no. G440889, circa 2011", Christie's, 2018-11-12]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2019/watches-online-8/rolex-explorer-ii-uk-attack-helicopter-force "Explorer II UK Attack Helicopter Force, Reference 216570 No. 2/48 Military Stainless Steel Dual-Time, circa 2015", Sotheby's, 2019-12-05]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2020/watches-online/rolex-ref-216570-explorer-ii-a-stainless-steel "Ref. 216570 Explorer II, Stainless Steel Automatic with 24-Hour Indication, Date and Bracelet, circa 2010", Sotheby's, 2020-04-01]
* [https://www.christies.com/lot/lot-6558346 "Rolex Explorer II 216570 made for the British Special Air Service, circa 2012", Christie's]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2021/fine-watches-including-masterworks-of-time-collectors-watches/sas-explorer-ii-ref-216570-stainless-steel "'SAS' Explorer II, Ref. 216570 Stainless Steel Dual-Time, circa 2010", Sotheby's, 2021-11-01]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2023/fine-watches-2/reference-216570-explorer-ii-a-stainless-steel "Reference 216570 Explorer II, Stainless Steel Automatic Dual Time with Date and Bracelet, circa 2015", Sotheby's, 2023-06-15]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2026/fine-watches/reference-216570-explorer-ii-a-stainless-steel "Reference 216570 Explorer II, stainless steel automatic, circa 2020", Sotheby's, 2026-06-17]

[[Category:Explorer II]]

Reference:6580

2026-09-29T10:19:12Z

Klaudiusz: Deep audit: fix gallery and source layout

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex Oyster Perpetual 6580}}
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Oyster Perpetual 6580 — Honeycomb Dial, Circa 1954 | Rolexopedia
|description=The Rolex Oyster Perpetual 6580, circa 1954 — a steel cal 1030 automatic with an off-white honeycomb dial and 3-6-9 numerals, smooth bezel.
|keywords=Rolex, Oyster Perpetual, 6580, honeycomb dial, cal 1030, vintage Rolex, 1954
|image=Ref 6580 hero.webp
|image_alt=Rolex Oyster Perpetual 6580 honeycomb dial
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
}}

<small>[[Reference:oyster-perpetual|Oyster Perpetual]] → '''6580'''</small>

<div class="rp-lead">
[[File:Ref 6580 hero.webp|thumb|center|640px|alt=Rolex Oyster Perpetual reference 6580 with honeycomb dial|Rolex Oyster Perpetual reference 6580 with honeycomb dial and 3-6-9 numerals, circa 1954.]]
</div>

Reference 6580 is a mid-1950s Oyster Perpetual recorded in stainless steel with caliber 1030. The best-documented example has an off-white honeycomb dial with 3-6-9 numerals and a smooth bezel, but dealer and auction records also show other dial and bracelet configurations. The page treats those as individual examples rather than a complete factory specification.

== Core facts ==

{| class="wikitable rp-facts"
|-
! detail
! value
|-
| reference
| 6580
|-
| family
| Oyster Perpetual
|-
| documented period
| circa 1954; dates belong to individual examples
|-
| case
| stainless-steel Oyster case; catalogued examples measure about 34mm
|-
| crystal
| Plexiglass is reported on dealer examples; confirm on the individual watch
|-
| movement
| caliber 1030 automatic; 25 jewels reported by dealer and auction records
|-
| dial
| published examples include honeycomb or white dials, with 3-6-9, baton, and chronometer layouts
|-
| bezel
| Smooth
|}

== Where it sits in the line ==

The 6580 belongs to the same broad caliber 1030 Oyster Perpetual period as [[Reference:6098|6098]], [[Reference:6085|6085]], and [[Reference:6564|6564]]. That shared movement period does not establish identical cases or dials. The related references are useful comparisons, not substitutes for a 6580 caseback and movement check.

== Production outline ==

A dealer example is dated circa 1954 and is identified with case number 39801. Other listings also use circa 1954, but no Rolex-published production window or total for 6580 was located. These dates should remain attached to the examples that carry them.

== Movement notes ==

Caliber 1030 is identified in the published 6580 records. Dealer and auction descriptions report 25 jewels, but the movement details should be checked against the individual watch rather than inferred from the reference number alone.

== Dial map ==

The clearest documented configuration is an off-white honeycomb dial with printed 3-6-9 Arabic numerals. Other records describe a white OCC dial, silver or white dials, and examples with different marker layouts. Those records establish variation among surviving watches; they do not provide a complete period sequence or prove that every dial was factory-original.

== Case, bezel, crystal, and crown ==

The documented cases are stainless steel and about 34mm across. Plexiglass, a smooth bezel, and an 11mm thickness are reported for the pictured example, but the reviewed auction records do not provide a full case, bezel, crown, and crystal specification for every 6580.

== Bracelets, clasps, and packaging ==

Bracelet fitments vary in the available examples. Dealer records show leather and riveted Oyster bracelets, and one 2026 auction record identifies an Oyster bracelet with a clasp and end-link marking. Those component stamps date the bracelet or clasp, not the watch head, and do not prove original delivery.

== Auction record ==

{| class="wikitable sortable"
|-
! Source !! Date described !! Configuration !! Reported result or estimate
|-
| Bearnes Hampton & Littlewood || IV.54 case date, sold 2026 || stainless steel, OCC dial, 34mm, Oyster bracelet || hammer GBP 1,700
|-
| EveryWatch archive example || circa 1954 || yellow-gold and steel, silver dial || reported result EUR 2,000
|-
| Hodinkee Shop || 1954 || stainless steel, honeycomb dial, caliber 1030 || dealer listing; no auction result
|}

These records describe individual watches and should not be read as a reference-wide price range or production count.

== Related references ==

* [[Reference:6098|6098]] and [[Reference:6085|6085]], Oyster Perpetual references from the same broad caliber 1030 period.
* [[Reference:6564|6564]], a separate Oyster Perpetual reference with documented gold and steel examples.
* [[Reference:oyster-perpetual|Oyster Perpetual family index]]

== Shared references ==

* [[Reference:Serial-numbers|Serial numbers by year]]
* [[Reference:Movements|Movement reference]]
* [[Reference:Bracelets|Bracelet & clasp guide]]

== Sources ==

* [https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/1950s-rolex-oyster-perpetual 1954 Rolex Oyster Perpetual reference 6580] (Hodinkee Shop)
* [https://www.easyliveauction.com/catalogue/lot/a9c403c5893dee2f3f33afcbf5d27064/0af8d24542e81eb9357e7ef448a6646f/silver-watches-jewellery-auction-lot-464/ Bearnes Hampton & Littlewood, Oyster Perpetual 6580, lot 464]
* [https://everywatch.com/rolex/6580/watch-3227730 Rolex Oyster 6580 archive example] (EveryWatch)
* ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' — Colin A. White, Morning Tundra

[[Category:Oyster Perpetual]]
[[Category:References]]

Reference:6564

2026-09-29T10:19:12Z

Klaudiusz: Deep audit: fix gallery and source layout

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex Oyster Perpetual 6564}}
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Oyster Perpetual 6564 — 18k Gold, Circa 1955 | Rolexopedia
|description=The Rolex Oyster Perpetual 6564, circa 1955 — an 18k yellow gold cal 1030 automatic from the flat-caseback generation, with early "Brevet" patent markings on case, crown and movement.
|keywords=Rolex, Oyster Perpetual, 6564, cal 1030, vintage Rolex, 1955, Brevet
|image=Ref 6564 hero.webp
|image_alt=Rolex Oyster Perpetual 6564 in 18k yellow gold
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
}}

<small>[[Reference:oyster-perpetual|Oyster Perpetual]] → '''6564'''</small>

<div class="rp-lead">
[[File:Ref 6564 hero.webp|thumb|center|640px|alt=Rolex Oyster Perpetual reference 6564 in yellow gold|Rolex Oyster Perpetual reference 6564 in yellow gold, circa 1955.]]
</div>

Reference 6564 is a mid-1950s Oyster Perpetual built around caliber 1030. Published examples include stainless steel, 9k gold, and 18k gold cases, along with Oyster Perpetual Chronometer versions. A single yellow-gold example cannot stand for the whole reference. The available records describe individual watches and do not establish one universal dial, crown, or bracelet specification.

== Core facts ==

{| class="wikitable rp-facts"
|-
! detail
! value
|-
| reference
| 6564
|-
| family
| Oyster Perpetual
|-
| documented period
| circa 1955–1960; individual lot dates vary
|-
| case
| round Oyster case; catalogued examples measure about 33–34mm
|-
| crystal
| Plexiglass (acrylic)
|-
| movement
| caliber 1030 automatic; auction catalogues describe 25 jewels in several examples
|-
| materials and dials
| steel, 9k gold, and 18k gold; published dials include textured, silvered, matte white, champagne, and black honeycomb examples
|}

== Where it sits in the line ==

The 6564 belongs to the postwar Oyster Perpetual group that used caliber 1030. It is recorded in both ordinary Oyster Perpetual and Oyster Perpetual Chronometer forms. The related 6567 is a separate reference and should not be used to fill gaps in a 6564 specification. Shared caliber history with the 6085, 6098, and 6580 does not make their cases or dials interchangeable.

== Production outline ==

The sources reviewed place examples from about 1955 to about 1960. Bonhams catalogued an 18k-gold example as circa 1955 with case 109892 and movement 565888. Christie's catalogued a steel-and-gilt chronometer as circa 1956, a 9k-gold example as from the 1950s, and another gold example as circa 1960. These dates belong to individual watches; no Rolex production table separating 6564 by material or chronometer status was located.

== Movement notes ==

Caliber 1030 is repeatedly identified in the available 6564 records. Christie's describes a 25-jewel movement in its circa-1956 steel-and-gilt chronometer and in its 9k-gold example. Bonhams identifies a 25-jewel caliber 1030 adjusted to five positions and temperature in its circa-1955 18k-gold watch. These details belong to those lots and do not prove that every 6564 had the same adjustment or jewel count.

== Dial map ==

Published examples show textured dials with gilt Arabic and dagger markers, matte white and champagne dials, a silvered dial with gilt dart markers, and a black honeycomb dial carrying the word "Deepsea." The evidence supports a varied dial set, but not a complete chronological dial sequence. “Deepsea” is a lot-specific marking unless a case, movement, and provenance record supports more.

== Case, bezel, crystal, and crown ==

The catalogued cases are round Oyster cases with screw backs and screw-down crowns. Reported diameters range from 33mm to 34mm. Christie's gives 34mm for its circa-1956 steel-and-gilt chronometer and 33mm for a circa-1960 9k-gold example; Bonhams gives 33mm for its circa-1955 18k-gold example. The existing yellow-gold photograph represents one material and configuration, not a universal case specification. The reviewed records do not establish one bezel, crown marking, or crystal type for every 6564.

== Bracelets, clasps, and packaging ==

Bracelet details vary by lot. Christie's describes a bracelet on its circa-1956 steel “Deepsea” example, while the Bonhams 18k-gold catalogue entry is shown on a strap. The Hodinkee 18k-gold example is presented with a gold bracelet, but that listing does not by itself prove original delivery. Bracelet and clasp stamps date those components; they do not date the watch head or prove that the components were sold with it.

== Auction record ==

{| class="wikitable sortable"
|-
! Source !! Date described !! Material and configuration !! Reported result or estimate
|-
| Bonhams, London catalogue || circa 1955 || 18k gold, caliber 1030, silvered dial || estimate GBP 2,000–3,000
|-
| Christie's || circa 1956 || steel and gilt Oyster Perpetual Chronometer, 25 jewels, 34mm || result not shown in the reviewed page
|-
| Christie's || circa 1956 || steel, black honeycomb “Deepsea” dial, caliber 1030 || result not shown in the reviewed page
|-
| Christie's || circa 1960 || 9k gold, champagne dial, 33mm || result not shown in the reviewed page
|}

These entries are catalogue records for individual watches. They are not a price guide or a production census.

== Related references ==

* [[Reference:6098|6098]] and [[Reference:6580|6580]], steel references from the same broad caliber 1030 period.
* [[Reference:6085|6085]], another mid-century Oyster Perpetual reference.
* [[Reference:oyster-perpetual|Oyster Perpetual family index]]

== Shared references ==

* [[Reference:Serial-numbers|Serial numbers by year]]
* [[Reference:Movements|Movement reference]]
* [[Reference:Bracelets|Bracelet & clasp guide]]

== Sources ==

* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-1445405 Rolex Oyster Perpetual Chronometer reference 6564, circa 1956] (Christie's)
* [https://www.christies.com/lot/lot-306479 Rolex Oyster Perpetual Chronometer reference 6564, 1956] (Christie's)
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-874670 Rolex 6564, 9k gold, 1950s] (Christie's)
* [https://www.christies.com.cn/en/lot/lot-5731547 Rolex Oyster Perpetual Deepsea reference 6564, circa 1956] (Christie's)
* [https://www.onthedash.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/Bonhams_2019May_London_Catalog.pdf Bonhams London catalogue, 18k-gold reference 6564, circa 1955]
* [https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/1958-rolex-oyster-perpetual-in-18k-yellow-gold-with-14k-oyster-yellow-gold-bracelet 1958 Rolex Oyster Perpetual reference 6564] (Hodinkee Shop)
* ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' — Colin A. White, Morning Tundra

[[Category:Oyster Perpetual]]
[[Category:References]]

Reference:6084

2026-09-29T10:19:12Z

Klaudiusz: Deep audit: fix gallery and source layout

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex Oyster Perpetual 6084}}
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Oyster Perpetual 6084 — "Big Bubble Back", 1952 | Rolexopedia
|description=The Rolex Oyster Perpetual 6084, "Big Bubble Back" or "Semi-Bubbleback", 1952 — the transitional case profile between the curved Bubbleback and the flat-caseback Oyster Perpetual generation that followed it.
|keywords=Rolex, Oyster Perpetual, 6084, Big Bubble Back, Semi-Bubbleback, vintage Rolex, 1952
|image=Ref 6084 hero.webp
|image_alt=Rolex Oyster Perpetual 6084 Big Bubble Back
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
}}

<small>[[Reference:oyster-perpetual|Oyster Perpetual]] -> '''6084'''</small>

<div class="rp-lead">
[[File:Ref 6084 hero.webp|thumb|center|640px|alt=Rolex Oyster Perpetual 6084 Big Bubbleback|Rolex Oyster Perpetual 6084, a 34 mm Big Bubbleback.]]
</div>

The 6084 names the case profile in transition: collectors call it the "Big Bubble Back" or "Semi-Bubbleback", the point where Rolex's curved Bubbleback case began flattening toward the caseback shape that would define the rest of the 1950s Oyster Perpetual line. Documented examples date to 1952, on a 34mm stainless steel case with a chapter-ring dial, and the reference sits directly ahead of the flat-caseback generation that [[Reference:6098|6098]] and [[Reference:6085|6085]] belong to.

== Core facts ==

{| class="wikitable rp-facts"
|-
! detail
! value
|-
| reference
| 6084
|-
| family
| Oyster Perpetual
|-
| common name
| "Big Bubble Back" / "Semi-Bubbleback"
|-
| production
| 1952 (documented examples)
|-
| case
| 34mm, stainless steel
|-
| crystal
| not specified in located sources
|-
| movement
| Cal. A.260 is catalogued by Phillips; cal. 620 by Antiquorum; the Christie’s example is not assigned a caliber
|-
| dial
| Chapter-ring dial signed "Swiss Made", aging to a warm patina
|-
| bezel
| Thin, smooth stainless steel
|-
| crown
| "Rolex Super Oyster" screw-down
|}

== Where it sits in the line ==

The 6084 marks the case-profile handoff between the curved Bubbleback and the flat-caseback Oyster Perpetual generation. Dealer descriptions of documented examples still call the caseback a "bubble case back," but the case middle and lugs read closer to the flat-caseback references that follow — full, symmetrical lugs rather than the rounded Bubbleback silhouette. That transitional read is exactly why collectors reach for "Semi-Bubbleback" as the descriptive name rather than treating it as a standard Bubbleback reference.

== Production outline ==

Phillips, Christie’s and Antiquorum all catalogue 1952 examples. Phillips records white-gold case 899724; Christie’s records a steel-and-gold watch with a chronometer certificate dated 22 October 1952; Antiquorum records steel case 796962. These lots establish a documented 1952 presence, not an exact production run or serial cutoff.

== Movement notes ==

Movement evidence is specimen-specific. Phillips lot 229 lists automatic cal. A.260; Antiquorum lot 45 lists cal. 620; Christie’s describes an automatic nickel movement without printing a caliber. A single caliber should not be assigned to every 6084.

== Dial map ==

The documented example carries a cream chapter-ring dial signed "Swiss Made," aged to a warm patina with brown spotting, leaf-style hands (professionally re-lumed with tritium on the example examined), and radium lume plots on the hour markers showing consistent dark-patina degradation. No other dial configuration has been independently confirmed for this reference.

== Case, bezel, crystal, and crown ==

[[File:Ref 6084 crown detail.webp|thumb|right|250px|Case profile and "Super Oyster" signed crown.|alt=Case profile and "Super Oyster" signed crown.]]

The case carries full, symmetrical lugs — a documented example shows lug holes only on the left side, a detail specific to that watch's service history rather than a factory standard. The bezel is thin, smooth, and steel. The crown is signed "Rolex Super Oyster," a screw-down design consistent with the era's water-resistance claims. The caseback is still described by dealers as a "bubble" caseback despite the transitional case-middle profile, which is the detail that gives the "Semi-Bubbleback" name its logic.

== Auction record ==

{| class="wikitable"
! source !! example !! result
|-
| [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/95907 Phillips, lot 229] || 1952, 18K white gold, case 899724, cal. A.260, 34 mm || CHF 70,000
|-
| [https://www.christies.com/lot/lot-4511211 Christie’s] || 1952, steel and gold, 34 mm, chronometer certificate dated 22 October 1952 || result not shown
|-
| [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-240-45 Antiquorum, lot 45] || 1952, steel, case 796962, cal. 620, 34 mm || USD 875
|-
| [https://jewelry.ha.com/itm/timepieces/wristwatch/rolex-ref-6084-steel-oyster-perpetual-chronometer-circa-1952/a/5309-54148.s Heritage Auctions] || circa 1952, steel, case 875538, 34 mm || USD 5,500
|}

== Related references ==

* [[Reference:6098|6098]] and [[Reference:6085|6085]] — the flat-caseback generation this transitional case profile leads into.
* [[Reference:oyster-perpetual|Oyster Perpetual family index]]

== Shared references ==

* [[Reference:Serial-numbers|Serial numbers by year]]
* [[Reference:Movements|Movement reference]]
* [[Reference:Bracelets|Bracelet & clasp guide]]

<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
Ref 6084 hero.webp|Reference 6084, full watch
Ref 6084 crown detail.webp|Super Oyster crown detail
</gallery>

== Sources ==

* [https://www.craftandtailored.com/products/1952-rolex-oyster-perpetual-ref-6084-big-bubble-back Craft and Tailored — "1952 Rolex Oyster-Perpetual (Ref. 6084) 'Big Bubble Back'"]
* [https://www.wearingtime.com/products/rolex-bubble-back-6084-bubbleback-oyster-perpetual WearingTime — "Rolex Bubble Back 6084 Bubbleback Oyster Perpetual"]
* ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' — Colin A. White, Morning Tundra
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/95907 Phillips, ref. 6084, lot 229]
* [https://www.christies.com/lot/lot-4511211 Christie’s, ref. 6084, movement no. 754684]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-240-45 Antiquorum, ref. 6084, lot 45]

[[Category:Oyster Perpetual]]
[[Category:References]]

Reference:oyster-perpetual

2026-09-29T10:11:13Z

Klaudiusz: Grounding and prose audit: qualify evidence and fix table structure

Reference:16519

2026-09-29T10:11:13Z

Klaudiusz: Grounding and prose audit: qualify evidence and fix table structure

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex 16519 Daytona}}
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Daytona 16519 — White Gold Zenith, 1989–2000 | Rolexopedia
|description=Reference guide to the white-gold Zenith Daytona 16519, produced from 1989 to 2000 with caliber 4030, an alligator strap and documented mother-of-pearl, meteorite and hardstone dials.
|image=Ref 16519 hero.webp
|image_alt=Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Ref. 16519 — 18k white gold
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|published_time=2026-04-19T13:52:10Z
|modified_time=2026-08-04T00:09:01Z
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
}}

<small>[[Reference:daytona|Daytona]] › '''16519'''</small>

<div class="rp-lead">
[[File:Ref 16519 hero.webp|thumb|center|640px|alt=Rolex Cosmograph Daytona 16519 in 18k white gold|Rolex Cosmograph Daytona 16519 in 18k white gold]]
</div>

The 16519 is the white-gold Zenith Daytona, generally placed in the late-1980s to 2000 period on the 40mm case and caliber 4030. The surviving catalogue record does not establish the exact first-delivery year. Documented dial options include mother-of-pearl, meteorite and hardstone.

<span id="core-facts"></span>
== Core facts ==

{| class="wikitable rp-facts"
|-
! detail
! value
|-
| reference
| 16519
|-
| family
| Daytona (Cosmograph, automatic)
|-
| production
| late 1980s–2000
|-
| case
| 40mm, 18k white gold
|-
| crystal
| sapphire (flat)
|-
| bezel
| engraved white gold tachymetre
|-
| crown
| Triplock, screw-down (white gold)
|-
| water resistance
| 100m / 330ft
|-
| movement
| Rolex cal 4030 (Zenith El Primero 400 base)
|-
| frequency
| 28,800 vph
|-
| jewels
| 31
|-
| power reserve
| Published figures range from 52 to 54 hours, depending on the source
|-
| chronometer
| COSC certified
|-
| strap
| alligator leather (original equipment)
|-
| buckle
| 18k white gold deployant
|-
| successor
| 116519 (2000, in-house cal 4130)
|}

<span id="where-it-sits-in-the-line"></span>
== Where it sits in the line ==

The 16519 is usually dated to 1989, one year behind the steel 16520 and yellow gold 16528, and ran in parallel with the 16518 (yellow gold leather), 16523 (Rolesor bracelet), and 16528 (yellow gold bracelet) until cal 4130 arrived in 2000. All five share cal 4030 and the same broad dial-mark progression. They diverge on case material, bracelet or strap fitment, and the dial branches each material attracted.

White gold resembles steel at a glance. The case hallmarks establish the metal; the strap and white-gold deployant distinguish its factory configuration from the steel bracelet reference.

Published original-equipment records show the 16519 on alligator leather with an 18k white-gold deployant. A 16519 on a white-gold Oyster bracelet needs individual fitment and service-history evidence. See [[Reference:Bracelets]] for the cross-family bracelet matrix and the cases where a white-gold Oyster ships as original equipment on other references.

<span id="production-outline"></span>
== Production outline ==

The 16519 ran for eleven years. Its serial-prefix chronology broadly follows the 16520 with a one-year lag at the start.

L-prefix is the introduction batch in 1989, and the rest of the run broadly follows the same Zenith-era dial chronology seen on the 16520. The useful collector split is early floating dial, mid tritium, and late luminova.

The documented 16519 run uses an alligator strap and an 18k white-gold deployant; individual strap replacements should be recorded separately from original delivery.

<span id="movement-notes"></span>
== Movement notes ==

The 16519 uses the same COSC-certified, 28,800 vph cal 4030 as the 16520, 16518, 16523 and 16528, with nothing white-gold-specific about it. The full movement write-up, including the El Primero base, Rolex's modification set and the disputed 52 versus 54 hour power-reserve figure, lives at [[Reference:Movements#cal-4030]]. What separates these five references sits on the case, strap and dial side.

<span id="dial-map"></span>
== Dial map ==

=== Serial / year / dial / lume / bracelet ===

{| class="wikitable"
! Serial !! Year !! Dial !! Lume !! Bracelet !! End links !! Notes
|-
| L || 1989 (catalogue chronology) || Floating, 4 lines || tritium || leather (alligator) || 18k white gold deployant buckle || Often treated as the introduction window. The cited lots do not establish the exact first-delivery date.
|-
| E || 1990 || Inverted 6 || tritium || leather (alligator) || 18k white gold deployant buckle || Per 16520 E-serial pattern.
|-
| N || 1991 || Inverted 6, MOP, sodalite (Beach) || tritium || leather (alligator) || 18k white gold deployant buckle || Beach Daytona stone dials (MOP / sodalite / lapis / salmon) primarily appear on this ref. Per Sotheby's Zenith guide; not dated lot by lot in the published literature.
|-
| X || 1991-1992 || Inverted 6 || tritium || leather (alligator) || 18k white gold deployant buckle || Per 16520 X-serial pattern.
|-
| C || 1992 || Inverted 6 || tritium || leather (alligator) || 18k white gold deployant buckle || Per 16520 C-serial pattern.
|-
| S || 1993 || Inverted 6, MOP variants || tritium || leather (alligator) || 18k white gold deployant buckle || Per 16520 S-serial pattern. Patrizzi-eligible era starts here.
|-
| T || 1996 || MK6, Beach variants || tritium || leather (alligator) || 18k white gold deployant buckle || Per 16520 T-serial pattern.
|-
| U || 1997-1998 || MK6, MK7, MOP / salmon variants || tritium, luminova || leather (alligator) || 18k white gold deployant buckle || Per 16520 U-serial pattern. Tritium → Luminova transition.
|-
| A || 1998-1999 || MK7 || luminova || leather (alligator) || 18k white gold deployant buckle || Per 16520 A-serial pattern.
|-
| P || 2000 || MK7 || luminova || leather (alligator) || 18k white gold deployant buckle || Final Zenith year. Per 16520 P-serial pattern.
|}

The 16519 follows the 16520 mark progression for the standard white dial: MK1 floating Cosmograph, MK2 4-Liner, MK3 inverted 6, MK4 corrected 6 (Patrizzi-eligible), MK5 post-Patrizzi tritium, MK6 late tritium and transitional, MK7 Luminova SWISS MADE. The lag against the steel reference is one year at the launch end. The divergence is in the white-gold-specific dial variants, the configurations Rolex offered only on the precious-metal cases.

The standard 16519 dial is white with applied white-gold hour markers and a printed white-gold tachymetre scale on the bezel. A small subset of standard 16519 dials carries Arabic numerals at the principal hour positions instead of stick markers, paired with a slightly different bezel font from the standard scale.

Mother-of-pearl is a recurring white-gold-specific dial variant. White MOP has an iridescent surface under the markers; black MOP is also documented. Diamond hour markers occur on many of the published examples. Karyn Orrico's ''Rolex Daytona Zenith: The Essential Guide'' for Sotheby's places several MOP dials in the N and S serial windows, 1991–1995, without dating every lot.

The Beach Daytona stone dials form a separate 16519 branch, covered below. Meteorite appears late in production, using Gibeon slices with the Widmanstätten pattern visible beneath white-gold markers; the material later returned on the 116519. Diamond-marker dials, replacing the usual stick or Arabic indices, appear on a small subset across the run, sometimes with diamond-set bezels. Those bezel-set watches need individual catalogue or provenance evidence. Sapphire-set markers are also documented.

The Patrizzi dial appears on the 16519, with browned sub-dial rings on the white-gold case.

A tropical 16519, meaning full-dial brown fade, is separate from the Patrizzi reaction. Examples have surfaced in dealer photography, but no auction-house specialist piece has enumerated them.

<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
File:Ref 16519 dial-arabic-numerals.webp|alt=16519 with white Arabic-numeral dial|16519 with white Arabic-numeral dial
File:Ref 16519 mop-dial-pink-strap.webp|alt=16519 mother-of-pearl dial on pink alligator strap|Mother-of-pearl dial on pink alligator strap, Sotheby's c.1997
</gallery>

<span id="case-bezel-crystal-and-crown"></span>
== Case, bezel, crystal, and crown ==

The 16519 case is 40mm in 18k white gold, with the same dimensions as the steel 16520, the same lug profile, and the same crown-guard integration. The white-gold case is heavier than the steel equivalent. The case sides and lug tops are polished, the lug flanks brushed. Hallmarks for 18k white gold sit between the lugs alongside the reference and serial.

The bezel is engraved white gold with a tachymetre scale, the same engraving treatment as the steel bezel executed in the case metal. Font and scale follow the same chronology as the 16520: carry-over 50–200 scale on the earliest examples, transition to the 60–400 scale with "UNITS PER HOUR" at 1 o'clock from late 1989 onward, then the standard 200/240 markings on the 1990-onward variant. A service-replacement bezel should be checked against the reference, period engraving and watch-specific records.

The crystal is flat sapphire, identical to the 16520 specification. The Triplock crown at 3 o'clock is white gold, the same screw-down architecture as the steel 700-series Triplock executed in the case metal. Water resistance is rated to 100m / 330ft. The chronograph pushers are screw-down, locked to prevent accidental actuation, and machined from white gold to match the case.

[[File:Ref 16519 caseback.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=16519 18K white gold caseback|18K white gold caseback, Sotheby's]]

<span id="bracelets-end-links-clasps"></span>
== Bracelets, end links, clasps ==

The 16519 ships on alligator leather with an 18k white gold deployant buckle as original equipment. Black, brown and burgundy alligator straps appear on documented original-equipment examples; the strap on an individual watch should be checked against its papers and service history. The deployant buckle carries the Rolex coronet and is the documented metal fitting on the strap side of the watch.

Published original-equipment records reviewed here show the reference on an alligator strap. A 16519 on a white-gold Oyster bracelet should be treated as a conversion unless the individual watch has records showing original delivery; the originality assessment should record the swap.

<span id="special-branches"></span>
== Special branches ==

<span id="the-patrizzi-16519"></span>
=== The Patrizzi 16519 ===

A Patrizzi 16519 has asymmetric chestnut tone in the sub-dial rings. Orrico puts the eligibility window at 1993–1997. The test is whether the discoloration runs asymmetrically across the sub-dials or reads as evenly painted; the dial and case need to be assessed together.

<span id="beach-daytona-stone-dials-on-16519"></span>
=== Beach Daytona stone dials on 16519 ===

Stone-dial Daytonas are documented on the 16519. The known group includes sodalite, lapis lazuli, mother-of-pearl, salmon and chrysoprase. Auction appearances include N, X, C and S serial watches from the early 1990s, with later T-serial examples in MOP and meteorite. Per-stone production numbers are not published.

Bonhams has catalogued two distinct sodalite examples, both circa 1999 with diamond-set indexes and the blue sodalite stone dial, confirmed as separate watches by their case numbers. A mother-of-pearl diamond-dial 16519, case no. U412683, purchased new on 1 July 1999, is also documented twice at Bonhams London. The lot details and results are listed in the Auction record section.

<span id="diamond-and-stone-set-configurations"></span>
=== Diamond and stone-set configurations ===

A small subset of 16519 production carries diamond hour markers, and a smaller subset adds a diamond-set bezel. The diamond-bezel configuration sits at the special-order or customised end of the catalogue, with documented examples appearing through the 1990s alongside the standard tachymetre bezel. Sapphire-set markers are also documented. Evidence varies by individual piece.

<span id="double-signed-dials"></span>
=== Double-signed dials ===

Double-signed 16519 examples (Tiffany & Co., Cartier and occasional Vacheron retailer co-signing) appear at auction. Karyn Orrico's "Vintage Rolex Daytona: The Gold Standard" piece for Sotheby's catalogues several double-signed gold Daytonas across the 16518 / 16528 generation; the 16519 examples have not been formally enumerated. Each documented example needs a per-lot provenance check.

<span id="historical-market-and-auction-record"></span><span id="Historical_market_and_auction_record"></span>
== Auction record ==

The lots below document individual 16519 examples. Results are tied to the case, dial, accessories and sale context; they are not a price guide for the reference.

{| class="wikitable"
! date !! house / lot !! configuration !! result
|-
| 15 Jun 2022 || Bonhams London, lot 4 || Case U412683, mother-of-pearl diamond dial, purchased 1 July 1999 || GBP 31,800 including premium; estimate GBP 20,000–30,000
|-
| 1 Dec 2022 || Bonhams Hong Kong, lot 946 || Case A795572, sodalite dial with diamond indexes, box, certificate and manual || Passed; estimate HK$320,000–550,000
|-
| 19 Jun 2024 || Bonhams London, lot 54 || Case U412683, mother-of-pearl diamond dial, later brown Rolex alligator and folding clasp || GBP 25,600; estimate GBP 20,000–30,000
|-
| 25 Nov 2025 || Bonhams Hong Kong, lot 879 || Case A786515, sodalite dial with diamond indexes and presentation box || HK$384,000 including premium; estimate HK$300,000–600,000
|}

Orrico's Zenith guide discusses the reference but does not give production totals for each stone dial or a complete serial-range map for white-gold examples.

== Related references ==

* [[Reference:16518|Daytona 16518]], Yellow Gold Zenith (1988–2000)
* [[Reference:16520|Daytona 16520]], "Zenith", First Automatic (1988–2000)
* [[Reference:16523|Daytona 16523]], 1988–2000
* [[Reference:16528|Daytona 16528]], 1988–2000
* [[Reference:116518|Daytona 116518]], 2000–2015
* [[Reference:116520|Daytona 116520]], Steel, Cal 4130 (2000–2016)

See also the [[Reference:daytona|Daytona family index]], [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|bracelet & clasp guide]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial numbers by year]].

<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
File:Ref 16519 hero.webp|Rolex Cosmograph Daytona 16519, 18k white gold.
File:Ref 16519 dial-arabic-numerals.webp|16519 with white Arabic-numeral dial.
File:Ref 16519 mop-dial-pink-strap.webp|Mother-of-pearl dial on pink alligator strap.
File:Ref 16519 caseback.webp|18k white-gold caseback, Sotheby's.
</gallery>

== Sources ==
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/articles/the-rolex-daytona-zenith-a-sothebys-guide Rolex Daytona Zenith: The Essential Guide] — Karyn Orrico, Sotheby's
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/articles/vintage-rolex-daytona-the-gold-standard Vintage Rolex Daytona: The Gold Standard] — Karyn Orrico, Sotheby's
* [https://revolutionwatch.com/a-movement-in-history-the-zenith-driven-rolex-daytona/ A Movement in History: The Zenith-driven Rolex Daytona] — Ross Povey, Revolution Watch
* [https://bulangandsons.com/blogs/watch-talks/rolex-zenith-daytona In Depth: The Rolex Zenith Daytona Cosmograph] — Bulang and Sons
* [https://www.rolex.com/en-us/watches/cosmograph-daytona/beyond-the-racetrack Cosmograph Daytona history]; Rolex, caliber 4030 and Daytona chronology
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/history-rolex-daytona-chronograph-1963-in-depth-review/ In-Depth: The History of the Rolex Daytona, The Emblematic Racing Chronograph] — Erik Slaven, Monochrome
* [https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-vintage-watch-nerds-critical-dissection-of-the-rolex-daytona-past-to-present-pt-23 In-Depth: A Vintage Watch Nerd's Critical Dissection of the Rolex Daytona, Past to Present (Part 2/3)] — Paul Boutros, Hodinkee
* [https://goldammer.me/blogs/articles/reference-guide-rolex-daytona A Beginner's Guide to the Early Rolex Daytona (1963-88)] — Marcus Siems, Goldammer
* [https://www.grayandsons.com/blog/the-history-and-evolution-of-the-automatic-rolex-daytona/ The History and Evolution of the Automatic Rolex Daytona] — Gray & Sons
* [https://www.vintagewatchstraps.com/ Vintage Watch Straps — Rolex bracelet and clasp reference] — David Boettcher, vintagewatchstraps.com
* ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' — Colin A. White, Morning Tundra
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/27662/lot/4/rolex-a-fine-18k-white-gold-automatic-chronograph-wristwatch-with-diamond-set-mother-of-pearl-dial-daytona-ref-16519-purchased-1st-july-1999/ Rolex Daytona Ref. 16519, mother-of-pearl dial, case no. U412683, Bonhams London, 2022-06-15]
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/29152/lot/54/rolex-a-fine-18k-white-gold-automatic-chronograph-wristwatch-with-diamond-set-mother-of-pearl-dial-daytona-ref-16519-purchased-1st-july-1999/ Rolex Daytona Ref. 16519, mother-of-pearl dial, case no. U412683, Bonhams London, 2024-06-19]
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/27738/lot/946/rolex-or-cosmograph-daytona-zenith-ref16519-a-rare-white-gold-chronograph-wristwatch-with-sodalite-dial-and-diamond-set-indexes-circa-1999/ Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Zenith Ref. 16519, sodalite dial, case no. A795572, Bonhams Hong Kong, 2022-12-01]
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/31167/lot/879/rolex-or-cosmograph-daytona-zenith-ref16519-a-fine-white-gold-chronograph-wristwatch-with-sodalite-dial-and-diamond-set-indexes-circa-1999/ Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Zenith Ref. 16519, sodalite dial, case no. A786515, Bonhams Hong Kong, 2025-11-25]

[[Category:Daytona Zenith]]
[[Category:Daytona]]

Reference:3134

2026-09-29T10:05:38Z

Klaudiusz: Deep audit: clean 3134 auction and related-reference prose

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex 3134 Bubbleback}}
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex 3134 Bubbleback Reference Guide | Rolexopedia
|description=Rolex reference 3134 Oyster Perpetual Bubbleback: documented cases, subsidiary and centre-seconds movements, dial variants, case construction and auction records.
|image=Ref 3134 hero.webp
|type=article
}}

<small>[[Reference:bubbleback|Bubbleback]] → '''3134'''</small>

<div class="rp-lead">
[[File:Ref 3134 hero.webp|thumb|center|640px|alt=Steel 3134 with a pink California-style dial|Steel 3134 with a pink California-style dial]]
</div>

The 3134 is a 32 mm tonneau Oyster Perpetual with a 9¾-ligne Rolex automatic. Auction catalogues document it with subsidiary and centre seconds. Three of the four auctioned examples cited here are steel; the fourth combines steel with yellow gold. The records date individual watches from the 1940s through 1957, but do not establish the reference’s production span.

==Core facts==

{| class="wikitable rp-facts"
|-
! detail
! value
|-
| reference
| 3134
|-
| family
| Bubbleback (collector name; never official Rolex usage)
|-
| documented examples
| four auction catalogues date individual watches from the 1940s to 1957; not a production span
|-
| case diameter
| 32 mm
|-
| case thickness
| 14 mm on Antiquorum’s 2013 example; not a reference-wide figure
|-
| case shape
| tonneau
|-
| case construction
| three-body / three-part in two catalogues
|-
| bezel
| inclined, smooth
|-
| crystal
| acrylic
|-
| crown
| screw-down
|-
| movement
| 9¾-ligne Rolex automatic; documented descriptions vary by example
|-
| escapement
| lever; described as straight-line in the 2013 catalogue
|-
| balance
| monometallic with a self-compensating Breguet balance spring in 1992; Superbalance in 2013
|-
| seconds
| subsidiary and centre sweep both documented
|-
| case materials
| stainless steel; stainless steel with yellow gold
|}

==Where it sits in the line==

The 3134 belongs to the two-digit-suffixed Oyster Perpetual references 3130 through 3135. The group includes different seconds layouts and case metals. Antiquorum's 1992 and 2013 examples have subsidiary seconds. Exclusive Timepieces lot 227 and the Luxe Auctioneers example have centre seconds.

The documented 3134 cases are predominantly steel. The four auction lots comprise three steel watches and one steel-and-yellow-gold watch. No solid-gold 3134 appears in the cited records.

==Production outline==

Auction catalogues date individual 3134 examples to the 1940s, circa 1945, the 1950s and 1957. The catalogues do not state a production start or end for the reference.

Treat the dates as estimates for the individual watches; they do not define a production window. Exclusive Timepieces dates case 168751 to 1957, while Anthony Traina's 2024 Hodinkee Bubbleback guide places the end of production in the mid-1950s. The sources do not resolve that difference.

==Movement notes==

Antiquorum Geneva's 1992 lot 181 describes a self-winding 9¾-ligne movement with 17 jewels, lever escapement, monometallic balance and a self-compensating Breguet balance spring. Exclusive Timepieces lot 227 also gives a 9¾-ligne automatic. Antiquorum's 2013 lot 143 records rhodium plating, a straight-line lever escapement and a Superbalance, but does not state the winding type or jewel count.

The lot descriptions identify automatic movements but leave the caliber number unstated. The subsidiary-seconds examples may fit Cal. 620 or the shock-protected Cal. 635; the centre-seconds examples may fit Cal. 630 or 645. These remain candidates until a movement marking or catalogue record confirms an individual watch. See [[Reference:Movements#cal-620|Cal. 620]], [[Reference:Movements#cal-630|Cal. 630]], [[Reference:Movements#cal-635|Cal. 635]], and [[Reference:Movements#cal-645|Cal. 645]].

==Dial map==

The four auctioned examples show four dial configurations.

The matte silver dial with applied luminous Arabic numerals and subsidiary seconds appears on Antiquorum's 2013 example, case 104396. Case 168751 has a pink dial with luminous Arabic and squared numerals, an outer minutes track and centre seconds. A black subsidiary-seconds dial appears on the 1992 steel-and-yellow-gold example.

Luxe Auctioneers catalogued one 3134 with a half-Roman, half-Arabic California-style dial, dated circa 1945. Its catalogue notes toning and spotting but does not establish that the dial is original. The lead image shows the same layout; its date is not established here. Anthony Traina notes that refinished California dials are common on Bubblebacks. Rolex filed Swiss patent CH221643 for the dial design in May 1941; the patent was issued in June 1942.

<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
File:Ref 3134 dial-matte-silver.webp|alt=3134 matte silver dial with luminous Arabic numerals|Matte silver dial, applied luminous Arabic numerals and subsidiary seconds, case 104396
File:Ref 3134 dial-california.webp|alt=3134 pink California dial|California-style dial in pink, half Roman and half Arabic
File:Ref 3134 dial-california-chronometer.webp|alt=3134 California dial marked Chronometer with centre seconds|The second California example, marked Chronometer and running centre sweep seconds, circa 1945
</gallery>

==Case, bezel, crystal, and crown==

Documented cases measure 32 mm across. Antiquorum's 2013 lot 143 is 14 mm thick; no second source gives thickness. The tonneau case has an inclined smooth bezel, acrylic crystal and screw-down crown.

Antiquorum's 2013 lot 143 calls the case "three body," and Exclusive Timepieces describes case 168751 as "composed of three parts." Both catalogue descriptions identify a three-part case.

Antiquorum's 1992 catalogue describes its steel-and-yellow-gold example as having "hooded fluted lugs," while case 168751 has curved lugs. No photograph of the 1992 watch has been located, so the hooded-lug description remains catalogue evidence rather than a visually confirmed sub-variant.

The side-profile photograph shows the domed caseback; the cited auction descriptions do not name that shape. The 1992 Antiquorum and Exclusive Timepieces catalogues describe automatic movements. Exclusive Timepieces and Luxe Auctioneers use “Bubbleback” in their lot titles.

<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
File:Ref 3134 case-profile.webp|alt=3134 case profile showing the domed caseback|Case profile: curved lugs, inclined bezel, screw-down crown and the domed back the family is named for
File:Ref 3134 caseback.webp|alt=3134 screw-down caseback|Screw-down caseback with milled edge
</gallery>

==Bracelets, end links, and clasps==

Only one documented example carries a bracelet: case 168751, fitted with a riveted steel Oyster. The catalogue does not establish when the bracelet was fitted. The Luxe example has an associated leather strap and a Rolex steel tang buckle; the catalogue does not claim either as original delivery.

==Case-metal suffixes==

Rolex used slash suffixes on Bubbleback references to distinguish case metals. Colin A. White's ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' documents the system and gives 1578/7 and 1578/8 as examples.

Colin A. White’s field manual gives 1578/7 and 1578/8 as examples of Bubbleback case-material suffixes. The sources reviewed here do not show how the same scheme applied to 3134. The directly documented 3134 cases are steel and steel with yellow gold.

==Auction record==

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Venue
! Date
! Lot
! Case no.
! Material
! Dial
! Estimate
! Result
|-
| Antiquorum Geneva #140
| 1992-10-17
| 181
| n/a
| Steel and yellow gold
| Black
| n/a
| Unsold
|-
| Antiquorum Geneva #272
| 2013-05-12
| 143
| 104396
| Steel
| Matte silver, applied luminous Arabics
| CHF 4,000-6,000
| Unsold
|-
| Exclusive Timepieces
| —
| 227
| 168751
| Steel
| Pink with patina
| EUR 6,000–12,000
| EUR 13,650
|-
| Luxe Auctioneers
| 2026-01-15
| 118
| —
| Steel
| California
| n/a
| USD 3,250 hammer; USD 4,063 total reported by EveryWatch
|}

Case 168751 sold for EUR 13,650 against a EUR 6,000–12,000 estimate. Luxe Auctioneers reported a USD 3,250 hammer for its California-dial example; EveryWatch reports USD 4,063 including fees. The Luxe catalogue notes dial toning and minor spotting and describes the leather strap as associated.

Both indexed Antiquorum lots were unsold. These four lots, spread across thirty-four years, are too few to establish a market level for the reference.

== Related references ==

* [[Reference:3131|Bubbleback 3131]], 1936-c.1948
* [[Reference:3132|Bubbleback 3132]]
* [[Reference:3372|Bubbleback 3372]]
* [[Reference:3065|Bubbleback 3065]], 1937-1950
* [[Reference:3595|Bubbleback 3595]], 1941-1949
* [[Reference:2940|Bubbleback 2940]], 1940-1949

See also the [[Reference:bubbleback|Bubbleback family index]], [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|bracelet & clasp guide]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial numbers by year]].

<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
File:Ref 3134 hero.webp|alt=Steel Rolex 3134 with pink California-style dial|Steel 3134 with California-style dial
File:Ref 3134 dial-matte-silver.webp|alt=3134 matte silver dial with luminous Arabic numerals|Matte silver dial and subsidiary seconds
File:Ref 3134 dial-california.webp|alt=3134 pink California dial|Pink California-style dial
File:Ref 3134 dial-california-chronometer.webp|alt=3134 California dial marked Chronometer with centre seconds|California-style dial with centre seconds
File:Ref 3134 case-profile.webp|alt=3134 case profile showing the domed caseback|Case profile
File:Ref 3134 caseback.webp|alt=3134 screw-down caseback|Caseback
</gallery>

== Sources ==

* [https://www.collectorsquare.com/en/watches/rolex/oyster-perpetual/ref-rolex-3134/lpi Collectors Square index, reproducing the description of Antiquorum Geneva 1992 lot 181 and indexing two 3134 results]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-3134-lot-272-143 Antiquorum, "Antiquorum Geneva #272 Lot 143 — Rolex ref 3134 steel, matte silver dial, case 104396", Antiquorum, 2013-05-12]
* [https://everywatch.com/rolex/oyster-perpetual/watch-9107818 EveryWatch, "Exclusive Timepieces Lot 227 — Rolex ref 3134 Bubbleback steel, pink dial, case 168751", EveryWatch]
* [https://www.lot-art.com/auction-lots/ROLEX-REF-3134-STEEL-BUBBLE-BACK-WITH-CALIFORNIA-DIAL-CIRCA-1945/118-rolex_3134_steel_3134-15.1.26-luxe Luxe Auctioneers, "Luxe Auctioneers — Rolex ref 3134 steel Bubble Back with California dial, circa 1945", Luxe Auctioneers, 2026-01-15]
* [https://robbreport.com/style/watch-collector/lists/rolex-bubbleback-watches-collector-guide-1931-1950s-1235893131/ Robb Report, "Robb Report — A Collector's Guide to Rolex Bubbleback Watches 1931-1950s", Robb Report, current]
* [https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-rolex-bubbleback-and-why-it-still-matters Anthony Traina, "The Rolex Bubbleback And Why It Still Matters", Hodinkee, 2024-10-07]
* ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' — Colin A. White, Morning Tundra
* [https://calibercorner.com/rolex-caliber-620/ Caliber Corner, "Caliber Corner — Rolex Caliber 620", Caliber Corner, current]
* [https://www.matthewbaininc.com/product-page/rolex-stainless-steel-bubbleback-ref-3134 Matthew Bain Inc, "Matthew Bain Inc — Rolex stainless steel Bubbleback ref 3134 with California dial, circa 1941", Matthew Bain Inc]
* [https://perezcope.com/dials/ Jose Pereztroika, "Dials — California dial patent chronology", Perezcope]

[[Category:Bubbleback]]

Reference:3134

2026-09-29T10:05:24Z

Klaudiusz: Deep audit: clean 3134 auction and related-reference prose

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex 3134 Bubbleback}}
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex 3134 Bubbleback Reference Guide | Rolexopedia
|description=Rolex reference 3134 Oyster Perpetual Bubbleback: documented cases, subsidiary and centre-seconds movements, dial variants, case construction and auction records.
|image=Ref 3134 hero.webp
|type=article
}}

<small>[[Reference:bubbleback|Bubbleback]] → '''3134'''</small>

<div class="rp-lead">
[[File:Ref 3134 hero.webp|thumb|center|640px|alt=Steel 3134 with a pink California-style dial|Steel 3134 with a pink California-style dial]]
</div>

The 3134 is a 32 mm tonneau Oyster Perpetual with a 9¾-ligne Rolex automatic. Auction catalogues document it with subsidiary and centre seconds. Three of the four auctioned examples cited here are steel; the fourth combines steel with yellow gold. The records date individual watches from the 1940s through 1957, but do not establish the reference’s production span.

==Core facts==

{| class="wikitable rp-facts"
|-
! detail
! value
|-
| reference
| 3134
|-
| family
| Bubbleback (collector name; never official Rolex usage)
|-
| documented examples
| four auction catalogues date individual watches from the 1940s to 1957; not a production span
|-
| case diameter
| 32 mm
|-
| case thickness
| 14 mm on Antiquorum’s 2013 example; not a reference-wide figure
|-
| case shape
| tonneau
|-
| case construction
| three-body / three-part in two catalogues
|-
| bezel
| inclined, smooth
|-
| crystal
| acrylic
|-
| crown
| screw-down
|-
| movement
| 9¾-ligne Rolex automatic; documented descriptions vary by example
|-
| escapement
| lever; described as straight-line in the 2013 catalogue
|-
| balance
| monometallic with a self-compensating Breguet balance spring in 1992; Superbalance in 2013
|-
| seconds
| subsidiary and centre sweep both documented
|-
| case materials
| stainless steel; stainless steel with yellow gold
|}

==Where it sits in the line==

The 3134 belongs to the two-digit-suffixed Oyster Perpetual references 3130 through 3135. The group includes different seconds layouts and case metals. Antiquorum's 1992 and 2013 examples have subsidiary seconds. Exclusive Timepieces lot 227 and the Luxe Auctioneers example have centre seconds.

The documented 3134 cases are predominantly steel. The four auction lots comprise three steel watches and one steel-and-yellow-gold watch. No solid-gold 3134 appears in the cited records.

==Production outline==

Auction catalogues date individual 3134 examples to the 1940s, circa 1945, the 1950s and 1957. The catalogues do not state a production start or end for the reference.

Treat the dates as estimates for the individual watches; they do not define a production window. Exclusive Timepieces dates case 168751 to 1957, while Anthony Traina's 2024 Hodinkee Bubbleback guide places the end of production in the mid-1950s. The sources do not resolve that difference.

==Movement notes==

Antiquorum Geneva's 1992 lot 181 describes a self-winding 9¾-ligne movement with 17 jewels, lever escapement, monometallic balance and a self-compensating Breguet balance spring. Exclusive Timepieces lot 227 also gives a 9¾-ligne automatic. Antiquorum's 2013 lot 143 records rhodium plating, a straight-line lever escapement and a Superbalance, but does not state the winding type or jewel count.

The lot descriptions identify automatic movements but leave the caliber number unstated. The subsidiary-seconds examples may fit Cal. 620 or the shock-protected Cal. 635; the centre-seconds examples may fit Cal. 630 or 645. These remain candidates until a movement marking or catalogue record confirms an individual watch. See [[Reference:Movements#cal-620|Cal. 620]], [[Reference:Movements#cal-630|Cal. 630]], [[Reference:Movements#cal-635|Cal. 635]], and [[Reference:Movements#cal-645|Cal. 645]].

==Dial map==

The four auctioned examples show four dial configurations.

The matte silver dial with applied luminous Arabic numerals and subsidiary seconds appears on Antiquorum's 2013 example, case 104396. Case 168751 has a pink dial with luminous Arabic and squared numerals, an outer minutes track and centre seconds. A black subsidiary-seconds dial appears on the 1992 steel-and-yellow-gold example.

Luxe Auctioneers catalogued one 3134 with a half-Roman, half-Arabic California-style dial, dated circa 1945. Its catalogue notes toning and spotting but does not establish that the dial is original. The lead image shows the same layout; its date is not established here. Anthony Traina notes that refinished California dials are common on Bubblebacks. Rolex filed Swiss patent CH221643 for the dial design in May 1941; the patent was issued in June 1942.

<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
File:Ref 3134 dial-matte-silver.webp|alt=3134 matte silver dial with luminous Arabic numerals|Matte silver dial, applied luminous Arabic numerals and subsidiary seconds, case 104396
File:Ref 3134 dial-california.webp|alt=3134 pink California dial|California-style dial in pink, half Roman and half Arabic
File:Ref 3134 dial-california-chronometer.webp|alt=3134 California dial marked Chronometer with centre seconds|The second California example, marked Chronometer and running centre sweep seconds, circa 1945
</gallery>

==Case, bezel, crystal, and crown==

Documented cases measure 32 mm across. Antiquorum's 2013 lot 143 is 14 mm thick; no second source gives thickness. The tonneau case has an inclined smooth bezel, acrylic crystal and screw-down crown.

Antiquorum's 2013 lot 143 calls the case "three body," and Exclusive Timepieces describes case 168751 as "composed of three parts." Both catalogue descriptions identify a three-part case.

Antiquorum's 1992 catalogue describes its steel-and-yellow-gold example as having "hooded fluted lugs," while case 168751 has curved lugs. No photograph of the 1992 watch has been located, so the hooded-lug description remains catalogue evidence rather than a visually confirmed sub-variant.

The side-profile photograph shows the domed caseback; the cited auction descriptions do not name that shape. The 1992 Antiquorum and Exclusive Timepieces catalogues describe automatic movements. Exclusive Timepieces and Luxe Auctioneers use “Bubbleback” in their lot titles.

<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
File:Ref 3134 case-profile.webp|alt=3134 case profile showing the domed caseback|Case profile: curved lugs, inclined bezel, screw-down crown and the domed back the family is named for
File:Ref 3134 caseback.webp|alt=3134 screw-down caseback|Screw-down caseback with milled edge
</gallery>

==Bracelets, end links, and clasps==

Only one documented example carries a bracelet: case 168751, fitted with a riveted steel Oyster. The catalogue does not establish when the bracelet was fitted. The Luxe example has an associated leather strap and a Rolex steel tang buckle; the catalogue does not claim either as original delivery.

==Case-metal suffixes==

Rolex used slash suffixes on Bubbleback references to distinguish case metals. Colin A. White's ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' documents the system and gives 1578/7 and 1578/8 as examples.

Colin A. White’s field manual gives 1578/7 and 1578/8 as examples of Bubbleback case-material suffixes. The sources reviewed here do not show how the same scheme applied to 3134. The directly documented 3134 cases are steel and steel with yellow gold.

==Auction record==

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Venue
! Date
! Lot
! Case no.
! Material
! Dial
! Estimate
! Result
|-
| Antiquorum Geneva #140
| 1992-10-17
| 181
| n/a
| Steel and yellow gold
| Black
| n/a
| Unsold
|-
| Antiquorum Geneva #272
| 2013-05-12
| 143
| 104396
| Steel
| Matte silver, applied luminous Arabics
| CHF 4,000-6,000
| Unsold
|-
| Exclusive Timepieces
| —
| 227
| 168751
| Steel
| Pink with patina
| EUR 6,000–12,000
| EUR 13,650
|-
| Luxe Auctioneers
| 2026-01-15
| 118
| —
| Steel
| California
| n/a
| USD 3,250 hammer; USD 4,063 total reported by EveryWatch
|}

Case 168751 sold for EUR 13,650 against a EUR 6,000–12,000 estimate. Luxe Auctioneers reported a USD 3,250 hammer for its California-dial example; EveryWatch reports USD 4,063 including fees. The Luxe catalogue notes dial toning and minor spotting and describes the leather strap as associated.

Both indexed Antiquorum lots were unsold. These four lots, spread across thirty-four years, are too few to establish a market level for the reference.

== Related references ==

* [[Reference:3131|Bubbleback 3131]] — 1936–c.1948
* [[Reference:3132|Bubbleback 3132]]
* [[Reference:3372|Bubbleback 3372]]
* [[Reference:3065|Bubbleback 3065]] — 1937–1950
* [[Reference:3595|Bubbleback 3595]] — 1941–1949
* [[Reference:2940|Bubbleback 2940]] — 1940–1949

See also the [[Reference:bubbleback|Bubbleback family index]], [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|bracelet & clasp guide]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial numbers by year]].

<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
File:Ref 3134 hero.webp|alt=Steel Rolex 3134 with pink California-style dial|Steel 3134 with California-style dial
File:Ref 3134 dial-matte-silver.webp|alt=3134 matte silver dial with luminous Arabic numerals|Matte silver dial and subsidiary seconds
File:Ref 3134 dial-california.webp|alt=3134 pink California dial|Pink California-style dial
File:Ref 3134 dial-california-chronometer.webp|alt=3134 California dial marked Chronometer with centre seconds|California-style dial with centre seconds
File:Ref 3134 case-profile.webp|alt=3134 case profile showing the domed caseback|Case profile
File:Ref 3134 caseback.webp|alt=3134 screw-down caseback|Caseback
</gallery>

== Sources ==

* [https://www.collectorsquare.com/en/watches/rolex/oyster-perpetual/ref-rolex-3134/lpi Collectors Square index, reproducing the description of Antiquorum Geneva 1992 lot 181 and indexing two 3134 results]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-3134-lot-272-143 Antiquorum, "Antiquorum Geneva #272 Lot 143 — Rolex ref 3134 steel, matte silver dial, case 104396", Antiquorum, 2013-05-12]
* [https://everywatch.com/rolex/oyster-perpetual/watch-9107818 EveryWatch, "Exclusive Timepieces Lot 227 — Rolex ref 3134 Bubbleback steel, pink dial, case 168751", EveryWatch]
* [https://www.lot-art.com/auction-lots/ROLEX-REF-3134-STEEL-BUBBLE-BACK-WITH-CALIFORNIA-DIAL-CIRCA-1945/118-rolex_3134_steel_3134-15.1.26-luxe Luxe Auctioneers, "Luxe Auctioneers — Rolex ref 3134 steel Bubble Back with California dial, circa 1945", Luxe Auctioneers, 2026-01-15]
* [https://robbreport.com/style/watch-collector/lists/rolex-bubbleback-watches-collector-guide-1931-1950s-1235893131/ Robb Report, "Robb Report — A Collector's Guide to Rolex Bubbleback Watches 1931-1950s", Robb Report, current]
* [https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-rolex-bubbleback-and-why-it-still-matters Anthony Traina, "The Rolex Bubbleback And Why It Still Matters", Hodinkee, 2024-10-07]
* ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' — Colin A. White, Morning Tundra
* [https://calibercorner.com/rolex-caliber-620/ Caliber Corner, "Caliber Corner — Rolex Caliber 620", Caliber Corner, current]
* [https://www.matthewbaininc.com/product-page/rolex-stainless-steel-bubbleback-ref-3134 Matthew Bain Inc, "Matthew Bain Inc — Rolex stainless steel Bubbleback ref 3134 with California dial, circa 1941", Matthew Bain Inc]
* [https://perezcope.com/dials/ Jose Pereztroika, "Dials — California dial patent chronology", Perezcope]

[[Category:Bubbleback]]

Reference:176200

2026-09-29T10:03:52Z

Klaudiusz: Deep audit: correct 176200 hero, sourcing and production wording

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex 176200 Oyster Perpetual 26}}
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Oyster Perpetual 26 (176200) — 2007–2020, Cal 2231 | Rolexopedia
|description=The 176200 was the Oyster Perpetual 26 — the smallest steel Rolex of its generation, 2007 to 2020, Cal 2231, silver and red grape dials documented. Discontinued in 2020 when Rolex dropped the 26mm size entirely and moved the entry-tier line to 28mm.
|keywords=Rolex, 176200, Oyster Perpetual 26, Oyster Perpetual, specifications, reference guide
|image=Ref_176200_hero.webp
|image_alt=Rolex Oyster Perpetual 26 176200 on Oyster bracelet
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
}}

<small>[[Reference:oyster-perpetual|Oyster Perpetual]] -> '''176200'''</small>

<div class="rp-lead">
[[File:Ref_176200_hero.webp|thumb|center|640px|alt=Rolex Oyster Perpetual 26 reference 176200 on Oyster bracelet|Rolex Oyster Perpetual 26 reference 176200]]
</div>

The 176200 is the 26mm steel Oyster Perpetual from the late-2000s generation. Rolex listed the reference in archived catalogues through 2020; the records cited here do not establish the exact last assembly or delivery date. Its similar reference number is sometimes confused with the 177200, which is the 31mm model. Both use caliber 2231, but they are separate case sizes.

<span id="core-facts"></span>

== Core facts ==

{| class="wikitable rp-facts"
|-
! detail
! value
|-
| reference
| 176200
|-
| family
| Oyster Perpetual
|-
| common name
| "Oyster Perpetual 26," "OP26"
|-
| production
| 2007–2020
|-
| case
| 26mm steel Oyster, monobloc middle case, domed bezel
|-
| crystal
| scratch-resistant sapphire
|-
| crown
| Twinlock screw-down
|-
| water resistance
| 100m / 330 feet
|-
| movement
| caliber 2231, self-winding, ~48h reserve, COSC certified
|-
| dial (documented)
| silver, red grape
|-
| bracelet
| Oyster, flat three-piece links, Oysterclasp
|-
| successor
| none directly — Rolex discontinued the 26mm size in 2020; the entry-tier line's smallest size became the 28mm 276200
|}

<span id="where-it-sits-in-the-line"></span>
== Where it sits in the line ==

The 176200 shares its launch period and caliber family with the 177200 (31mm), 116000 (36mm), and Air-King 114200 (34mm). The 26mm and 31mm models use caliber 2231; the larger references use different 31xx-family movements. Rolex removed the 26mm size in the 2020 catalogue refresh and began the new range at 28mm.

The available sources are mainly archived Rolex specifications and individual auction or certified-pre-owned records. They identify the reference and its 26mm case, but do not provide a complete catalogue of dials or a full production record.

<span id="production-outline"></span>
== Production outline ==

The 176200 appears in archived Rolex specifications from the 2007 generation and was still listed in an August 2020 catalogue. The September 2020 range began at 28mm with reference 276200. These records bracket the catalogue change but do not establish the last watch assembled or delivered.

<span id="movement-notes"></span>
== Movement notes ==

Caliber 2231 is the smaller-diameter movement family Rolex fitted to the 26mm and 31mm Oyster Perpetual sizes, distinct from the caliber 3130/3132 family used on the 34mm, 36mm and 39mm references of the same generation. It shares the self-winding architecture, bidirectional Perpetual rotor winding, and COSC chronometer certification standard across the line, scaled down for the smaller case.

<span id="dial-map"></span>
== Dial map ==

The cited records show silver and red-grape dials, along with a white dial with black Arabic numerals and a silvered dial with luminous rectangular indexes. These are documented watches, not a complete factory dial list.

<span id="case-bezel-crystal-and-crown-notes"></span>
== Case, bezel, crystal, and crown ==

26mm monobloc-middle Oyster case in Oystersteel, domed smooth bezel, sapphire crystal without a Cyclops lens, Twinlock screw-down crown, 100m water resistance — the same construction language as the rest of the 2007-generation entry-tier line, scaled to the smallest case in it.

<span id="bracelets-and-clasps"></span>
== Bracelets, end links, and clasps ==

Oyster bracelet, flat three-piece links, folding Oysterclasp — consistent with the 176200's siblings across the 2007 generation.

== Related references ==

* [[Reference:177200|Oyster Perpetual 31 (177200)]] — same generation, same caliber family, one size up
* [[Reference:116000|Oyster Perpetual 36 (116000)]]
* [[Reference:114200|Air-King 114200]] — same 2007 launch year

See also the [[Reference:oyster-perpetual|Oyster Perpetual family index]], [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|bracelet & clasp guide]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial numbers by year]].

== Sources ==

* [https://web.archive.org/web/20131210191936/http://www.rolexforums.com/showthread.php?t=24967 "new mid-size oyster perpetual 177200", Rolex Forums thread, October 2007 — period launch lead]

* [https://web.archive.org/web/20190714075712/https://www.rolex.com/watches/oyster-perpetual/m176200-0016.html Rolex Oyster Perpetual 26, ref. 176200 — official specifications, archived] (rolex.com via Wayback Machine, 2019)
* [https://web.archive.org/web/20181111064644/https://www.rolex.com/watches/oyster-perpetual/m176200-0015.html Rolex Oyster Perpetual 26, ref. 176200, silver dial — official specifications, archived] (rolex.com via Wayback Machine, 2019)
* [https://www.watchguys.com/pages/rolex-oyster-perpetual-guide Robertino Altieri, "Rolex Oyster Perpetual Buyer's Guide: History & Prices", WatchGuys]

[[Category:Oyster Perpetual]]

Reference:116619LB

2026-09-29T10:01:54Z

Klaudiusz: Deep audit: qualify 116619LB hallmark and white-gold wording

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex 116619LB Submariner}}
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Submariner 116619LB, white-gold Cerachrom Submariner Date | Rolexopedia
|description=The Rolex 116619LB is the white-gold Submariner Date with a blue lacquer dial, blue Cerachrom bezel, caliber 3135, and 40mm Super Case, produced approximately from 2008 to 2020.
|keywords=Rolex, 116619LB, Submariner, specifications, reference guide
|image=Ref 116619LB hero 2.jpg
|image_alt=Rolex Submariner Ref. 116619LB
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|published_time=2026-04-14T16:13:08Z
|modified_time=2026-08-04T00:07:40Z
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
}}

<small>[[Reference:submariner|Submariner]] › '''116619LB'''</small>

<div class="rp-lead">
[[File:Ref_116619LB_hero.webp|thumb|center|640px|alt=Rolex 116619LB Submariner|Rolex 116619LB Submariner]]
</div>

The 116619LB is the white-gold Submariner Date with a blue dial and blue Cerachrom bezel. Rolex introduced it at Baselworld 2008 alongside the yellow-gold 116618, before ceramic bezels reached the steel Submariner in 2010. “Smurf” is a collector nickname for the blue-on-white-gold combination. The 40mm case uses caliber 3135 and a Glidelock-equipped white-gold Oyster bracelet.

The cited 116619LB records show a blue lacquer dial with a matching blue bezel throughout the reference. Diamond-marker examples and service replacements should be checked against the individual watch; the cited factory record does not establish a black-dial 116619LB.

<span id="core-facts"></span>

== Core facts ==

{| class="wikitable rp-facts"
|-
! detail
! value
|-
| reference
| 116619LB
|-
| family
| Submariner Date
|-
| production
| about 2008 to 2020
|-
| movement
| caliber 3135 (date, quick-set, 28800 bph, ~48hr power reserve)
|-
| case
| 40mm, full 18k white gold, Super Case
|-
| crystal
| sapphire with Cyclops
|-
| water resistance
| 300m
|-
| bezel
| 18k white gold with blue Cerachrom ceramic insert, platinum-filled numerals
|-
| lume
| Chromalight (blue glow)
|-
| bracelet
| 18k white gold Oyster ref.97209 with Glidelock
|-
| dial
| blue lacquer, maxi format, white gold markers
|-
| rehaut
| engraved ROLEX ROLEX
|-
| nickname
| Smurf
|-
| predecessor
| none (first white gold Submariner)
|-
| successor
| 126619LB
|}

<span id="where-it-sits-in-the-line"></span>
== Where it sits in the line ==

The 116619LB is the white-gold member of the ceramic-era Submariner generation. It launched in 2008 alongside the full yellow-gold [[Reference:116618|116618]], the two precious-metal models carrying ceramic into the Submariner line before steel got it; Tom Mulraney's Submariner history for Monochrome (2020) puts the Rolesor [[Reference:116613|116613]] at 2009 and the steel 116610 at 2010. Cerachrom had reached Rolex three years earlier, on the 2005 GMT-Master II 116718LN, per the same Monochrome history.

Yellow-gold Submariners date back to the 1680/8 era, and Rolesor arrived with the 16613. White gold was new territory. Its white-gold case can look similar to steel in photographs, but the metal, hallmarks and weight must be checked on the watch.

<span id="production-outline"></span>
== Production outline ==

The 116619LB ran from 2008 to 2020, and the Basel introduction and the start of production fall in the same year: Christie's sold a V-serial example it dates to first-year 2008 manufacture (''Watches Online: The Collector's Edition'', 2020, lot 47), and Phillips describes the reference as Rolex's first serially produced white-gold Submariner (''Game Changers'', New York 2019, lot 33). The cited sources do not establish a complete mid-run change table or a Rolex production total.

<span id="movement-notes"></span>
== Movement notes ==

Caliber 3135 throughout, the same movement used in the 116610, the 116613, and the 116618. Quick-set date, 28,800 vph, Microstella regulation, Parachrom blue hairspring. The steel, Rolesor, yellow-gold, and white-gold references use the same caliber family; the case, bezel, dial, and bracelet materials differ. The 126619LB successor moved to caliber 3235 with a 70-hour power reserve.

<span id="dial-map"></span>
== Dial map ==

<span id="blue-lacquer-the-only-dial"></span>
=== Blue lacquer dial ===

Blue lacquer dial with Maxi-format luminous markers, the oversized plots of the ceramic era, and Chromalight lume. The lacquer reads differently from the sunburst blues on the 116618LB and 116613LB. It is generally described as a deeper, more uniform blue than the sunburst dials used on some yellow-gold and Rolesor examples; photographs and lighting can change its appearance.

[[File:Ref_116619LB_hero_2.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=Rolex Submariner Ref. 116619LB|Rolex Submariner Ref. 116619LB]]

White-gold markers and hands distinguish it from the yellow-gold 116618LB, whose blue dial uses gold surrounds in the cited examples.

<span id="case-bezel-crystal-and-crown-notes"></span>
== Case, bezel, crystal, and crown ==

<span id="case"></span>
=== Case ===

40mm 18k white gold in Super Case proportions, with broader lugs than the five-digit era, full crown guards, and a Triplock crown sealing to 300m. The case back is solid 18k white gold. White gold can resemble steel in photographs, so weight, hallmarks and the individual watch record help distinguish the metals.

<span id="bezel"></span>
=== Bezel ===

Blue Cerachrom ceramic insert matched to the dial. Numerals and graduation marks are platinum-filled, where the 116618 uses gold filling to match its yellow-gold case; the platinum gives a silver-grey tone that sits with white gold. Cerachrom is more resistant to fading and scratching than aluminium, but ceramic can still chip or be damaged.

<span id="crystal"></span>
=== Crystal ===

Sapphire with Cyclops at 3 o'clock and anti-reflective coating on the inner surface.

<span id="hallmarks"></span>
=== Hallmarks ===

Hallmarks follow the standard Swiss precious-metal system. A 750 stamp indicates 18k, or 750 parts per thousand gold content. The St. Bernard "Barry" mark is the Swiss precious-metals stamp used post-1995, replacing the older Helvetia bust mark. Hallmark placement varies by case and bracelet component, so the watch should be checked directly.

<span id="bracelets-end-links-clasps-and-packaging-notes"></span>
== Bracelets, end links, clasps, and packaging notes ==

<span id="bracelet"></span>
=== Bracelet ===

Full 18k white-gold Oyster ref.97209 with a Glidelock extension giving roughly 20mm of micro-adjustment. Finishing is brushed throughout, with a brushed finish documented on the cited examples. The bracelet and clasp should be checked on the individual watch because service parts can change them. The cited examples use this bracelet configuration; service parts and later changes should be recorded from the individual watch.

<span id="special-branches"></span>
== Special branches ==

The cited sources document one regular blue-dial configuration and no separate special branch. Dial finish and colour should still be checked against the individual watch and service history. The 116613LB and 116618LB both moved from flat to sunburst mid-production; the 116619LB's lacquer stayed constant.

<span id="historical-market-and-auction-record"></span>
== Historical market and auction record ==

The 116619LB appears mainly in dealer and auction listings. Results vary with condition, bracelet size, papers, service history, and sale venue. The Bonhams and Antiquorum results listed below are individual data points; they do not establish a fixed premium over the yellow-gold 116618 or a universal market ranking.

== Related references ==

* [[Reference:116618|Submariner 116618]]: Yellow Gold (2008–2020)
* [[Reference:116613|Submariner 116613]]: 2009–2020
* [[Reference:116610LV|Submariner 116610LV]]: "Hulk", Green Dial (2010–2020)
* [[Reference:116610LN|Submariner 116610LN]]: 2010–2020
* [[Reference:114060|Submariner 114060]]: 2012–2020
* [[Reference:16610LV|Submariner 16610LV]]: "Kermit", Green Bezel (2003–2010)

See also the [[Reference:submariner|Submariner family index]], [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|bracelet & clasp guide]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial numbers by year]].

<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
File:Ref_116619LB_hero_2.webp|White-gold 116619LB with blue dial and bezel
File:Ref_116619LB_detail.webp|Case and bezel detail
</gallery>

== Sources ==
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/rolex-submariner-history-part-2-the-55xx-1680references/ History of the Rolex Submariner - Part 2, The 55XX References and 1680 Date]; Tom Mulraney, Monochrome
* [https://www.the1916company.com/blog/rolex-smurf-guide.html The 1916 Company Smurf guide]; The 1916 Company, The 1916 Company
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/articles/how-to-start-collecting-the-rolex-submariner The Rolex Submariner: A Complete Collector's Guide]; Stephen Pulvirent, Sotheby's
* [https://www.bobswatches.com/rolex-blog/rolex-info/rolex-two-tone-submariner.html Bob's Watches two-tone Submariner history]; Bob's Watches editorial staff, Bob's Watches
* [https://www.grayandsons.com/blog/rolex-submariner-date-history/ Gray & Sons Submariner Date history]; Gray & Sons editorial, Gray & Sons
* [https://professionalwatches.com/rolex-submariner-reference-guide/ Rolex Submariner Reference Guide]; Professional Watches editorial, Professional Watches
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/26250/lot/911/rolex-a-white-gold-blue-submariner-bracelet-watch-ref-116619lb-no-v762980-with-box-certificate-original-receipt-3-spare-links/ Rolex Ref. 116619LB, case V762980]; Bonhams, "Evolutionary Time," Hong Kong, 2020-07-22, Lot 911
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/29988/lot/1155/rolex-or-submariner-ref116619lb-smurf-a-white-gold-bracelet-watch-with-date-circa-2010/ Rolex Ref. 116619LB "Smurf," case V528909]; Bonhams, Hong Kong online sale, 2024-04-05, Lot 1155
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-116619lb-submariner-lot-361-127 Rolex Ref. 116619LB, case V712568]; Antiquorum, Hong Kong, 2023-06-13, Lot 127
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-116619lb-submariner-smurf-white-gold-lot-388-154 Rolex Ref. 116619LB "Smurf," case V479064]; Antiquorum, Monaco, 2026-06-28, Lot 154

[[Category:Submariner]]

Reference:116618

2026-09-29T10:00:59Z

Klaudiusz: Deep audit: qualify 116618 gold, hallmark and bracelet claims

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex 116618 Submariner}}
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Submariner 116618, yellow-gold Cerachrom Submariner Date | Rolexopedia
|description=The Rolex 116618 is the full 18k yellow-gold Submariner Date from the Cerachrom and caliber 3135 generation, produced approximately from 2008 to 2020.
|keywords=Rolex, 116618, Submariner, specifications, reference guide
|image=Ref_116618_hero.webp
|image_alt=Yellow-gold Submariner, Cerachrom
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|published_time=2026-04-14T16:13:04Z
|modified_time=2026-08-04T00:07:37Z
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
}}

<small>[[Reference:submariner|Submariner]] › '''116618'''</small>

<div class="rp-lead">
[[File:Ref_116618_hero.webp|thumb|center|640px|alt=Rolex 116618 Submariner|Rolex 116618 Submariner]]
</div>

The 116618 is the full 18k yellow-gold Submariner Date of the Cerachrom era, in production from roughly 2008 to 2020 on caliber 3135. Rolex has offered a full yellow-gold Submariner Date since the 1680/8 appeared in 1969. The 116618 is the ceramic-bezel generation of that line.

The yellow-gold case distinguishes it from the steel 116610LN and the white-gold 116619LB.

<span id="core-facts"></span>

== Core facts ==

{| class="wikitable rp-facts"
|-
! detail
! value
|-
| reference
| 116618 (LN = black, LB = blue)
|-
| family
| Submariner Date
|-
| production
| about 2008 to 2020
|-
| movement
| caliber 3135 (date, quick-set, 28800 bph, ~48hr power reserve)
|-
| case
| 40mm Super Case, full 18k yellow gold
|-
| crystal
| sapphire with Cyclops
|-
| water resistance
| 300m
|-
| bezel
| Cerachrom ceramic (blue or black), gold-filled numerals
|-
| lume
| Chromalight (blue glow)
|-
| bracelet
| full gold Oyster ref.97208 with Glidelock, polished center links
|-
| rehaut
| engraved ROLEX ROLEX
|-
| predecessor
| 16618
|-
| successor
| 126618LB / 126618LN
|}

<span id="gold-submariner-lineage"></span>
== Gold Submariner lineage ==

Rolex has offered a full yellow-gold Submariner Date across every major generation since 1969.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! reference
! years
! notes
|-
| 1680/8
| 1969–~1977
| First gold Submariner; nipple hour markers; early blue dials prone to tropical aging
|-
| 16808
| ~1977–1988
| Transition reference; same basic construction
|-
| 16618
| 1988–2008
| Last aluminum-bezel gold Sub; predecessor to 116618
|-
| 116618
| ~2008–2020
| First ceramic-bezel gold Sub; Super Case; Glidelock
|-
| 126618LB / LN
| 2020–present
| 41mm; caliber 3235; thinner lugs; 21mm bracelet
|}

<span id="where-it-sits-in-the-generation"></span>
== Where it sits in the generation ==

The 116618 is the full-gold member of the ceramic-era Submariner generation, alongside the steel 116610, the Rolesor [[Reference:116613|116613]], and the full white-gold [[Reference:116619LB|116619LB]]. The two precious-metal models launched together around 2008 and carried the first Cerachrom ceramic bezels in the Submariner family. The steel 116610LN and two-tone 116613 only followed in 2009–2010.

<span id="what-changed-from-the-16618"></span>
== What changed from the 16618 ==

The gold Submariner took the same generational package the 116610LN brought to steel. Cerachrom ceramic replaced the aluminum insert, the Glidelock clasp replaced the Fliplock, the case widened into the broader-lugged Super Case, Chromalight replaced SuperLuminova, and the rehaut picked up engraving. The 16618 used an aluminium insert that can fade and scratch; the Cerachrom insert is more resistant to those forms of wear, though ceramic can still chip or be damaged.

<span id="production-outline"></span>
== Production outline ==

Both LB (blue) and LN (black) variants are documented across the production period. The cited sources do not establish a complete mid-run change table for every dial and market.

The case, bezel body, crown, crown guards, bracelet, and case back are 18k yellow gold. Total weight varies with bracelet sizing and links, so a forum-reported weight is not a specification.

<span id="movement-notes"></span>
== Movement notes ==

Caliber 3135 throughout, the same movement that runs the 116610, the 116613, and the 116619LB. Quick-set date, 28,800 vph, Microstella regulation, and a Parachrom blue hairspring in Rolex's paramagnetic niobium-zirconium alloy, more resistant to magnetic interference than the older hairspring alloys. The same caliber family appears in the steel, two-tone, yellow-gold, and white-gold Submariners of this generation. The 116618 differs from the 116610LN in case, bracelet, bezel, and dial materials; the movement specification remains caliber 3135.

The successor 126618 moved to caliber 3235, which brought a 70-hour power reserve, the Chronergy escapement, and updated regulation. That is the functional gap between the 116618 and the current gold Submariner.

<span id="dial-map"></span>
== Dial map ==

<span id="blue-dial-lb"></span>
=== Blue dial (LB) ===

[[File:Ref 116618 detail 2.webp|thumb|right|280px|alt=Yellow-gold Submariner 116618LB, sunburst blue dial and Cerachrom bezel|Yellow-gold 116618LB; sunburst blue dial, Cerachrom bezel]]

Like the two-tone 116613LB, the blue-dial 116618LB went through a dial-finish transition during production. Earlier examples carried a flatter blue; later production moved to the more pronounced sunburst blue that became the standard across the gold Submariner line. The exact timing on the 116618LB is less well-documented than on the two-tone reference.

The blue dial can appear darker or lighter as the sunburst catches different light. It has gold Maxi markers, large luminous plots, and gold hands, paired with the blue Cerachrom bezel.

<span id="black-dial-ln"></span>
=== Black dial (LN) ===

The LN pairs a black dial with gold Maxi markers and a black Cerachrom bezel.

<span id="case-bezel-crystal-and-crown-notes"></span>
== Case, bezel, crystal, and crown ==

<span id="case"></span>
=== Case ===

The entire case is 18k yellow gold: body, bezel, crown, crown tube, crown guards, and case back. Lugs and crown guards are heavier than the 16618's, the geometry collectors call the Super Case or Maxi Case. Triplock crown, sealed to 300m.

The 116618 uses a 40mm case on a 20mm bracelet. The successor 126618 went to 41mm with thinner, more tapered lugs and a 21mm bracelet; Fratello's review of the 126618LB describes the new lugs as more tapered than the earlier Maxi Case.

<span id="bezel"></span>
=== Bezel ===

Cerachrom ceramic, the change that defines the generation. It is more resistant to fading and surface scratches than the 16618's aluminum insert, although ceramic can chip under a hard impact. Numerals and graduations are filled with gold to match the case; the steel and white-gold models use different filling materials.

<span id="crystal"></span>
=== Crystal ===

Sapphire with Cyclops over the date window. The inner rehaut is engraved with repeating ROLEX ROLEX text and the serial number at 6 o'clock.

<span id="hallmarks"></span>
=== Hallmarks ===

Hallmarks follow the standard Swiss precious-metal system. A 750 stamp denotes 18k gold, or 750 parts per thousand fine gold. Swiss precious-metal hallmarks and the St. Bernard "Barry" mark should be checked on the individual case and bracelet components; their placement varies by component and production detail.

<span id="bracelets-end-links-clasps-and-packaging-notes"></span>
== Bracelets, end links, clasps, and packaging notes ==

<span id="bracelet"></span>
=== Bracelet ===

The 97208 is a full 18k yellow-gold Oyster with a Glidelock extension giving roughly 20mm of micro-adjustment. Polished center links sit against brushed outer links, so the bracelet shifts finish as it moves; Colin A. White's ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' treats that contrast as a distinguishing quality of the gold Submariner bracelets. The steel 116610LN Oyster is brushed throughout.

The full-gold bracelet is substantially heavier than the steel bracelet used on the 116610. Published examples use the Glidelock-equipped 97208. Service or replacement bracelets can occur, so the bracelet should be checked on the individual watch.

<span id="market-and-collector-context"></span>
== Market and collector context ==

The 116618 appears less often at auction than vintage gold Submariners and is more commonly seen in dealer and certified-pre-owned listings. Results vary with dial, case condition, bracelet, papers, service history, and whether the watch is LB or LN. One Bonhams 2020 blue-dial lot is cited below. It is a single documented sale, not a price guide.

== Related references ==

* [[Reference:116619LB|Submariner 116619LB]]: "Smurf", White Gold (2008–2020)
* [[Reference:116613|Submariner 116613]]: 2009–2020
* [[Reference:116610LV|Submariner 116610LV]]: "Hulk", Green Dial (2010–2020)
* [[Reference:116610LN|Submariner 116610LN]]: 2010–2020
* [[Reference:114060|Submariner 114060]]: 2012–2020
* [[Reference:16610LV|Submariner 16610LV]]: "Kermit", Green Bezel (2003–2010)

See also the [[Reference:submariner|Submariner family index]], [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|bracelet & clasp guide]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial numbers by year]].

<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
File:Ref_116618_hero.webp|Full-gold 116618LB
File:Ref 116618 detail 2.webp|Blue dial and Cerachrom bezel detail
</gallery>

== Sources ==
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/rolex-submariner-history-part-2-the-55xx-1680references/ History of the Rolex Submariner - Part 2, The 55XX References and 1680 Date]; Tom Mulraney, Monochrome
* [https://www.bobswatches.com/rolex-blog/rolex-info/rolex-two-tone-submariner.html Bob's Watches two-tone Submariner history]; Bob's Watches editorial staff, Bob's Watches
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/articles/how-to-start-collecting-the-rolex-submariner The Rolex Submariner: A Complete Collector's Guide]; Stephen Pulvirent, Sotheby's
* [https://www.grayandsons.com/blog/rolex-submariner-date-history/ Gray & Sons Submariner Date history]; Gray & Sons editorial, Gray & Sons
* [https://professionalwatches.com/rolex-submariner-reference-guide/ Rolex Submariner Reference Guide]; Professional Watches editorial, Professional Watches
* ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual''; Colin A. White, Morning Tundra
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/25959/lot/6/rolex-an-18k-gold-automatic-calendar-bracelet-watch-oyster-perpetual-submariner-ref-116618-purchased-27th-july-2016/ Rolex ref. 116618 Submariner, sunburst blue dial, lot 6]; Bonhams, London, 24 November 2020
* [https://newsroom.rolex.com/watches/oyster-collection/submariner The Rolex Submariner]; Rolex, Submariner history and technical overview
* [https://content.rolex.com/dam/media/brochures/submariner/m116613lb-0005.pdf Submariner Date brochure]; Rolex, caliber 3135 and Cerachrom technical specifications

[[Category:Submariner]]

Reference:116600

2026-09-29T09:59:56Z

Klaudiusz: Deep audit: remove leaked importer artifact from 116600

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex 116600 Sea-Dweller}}
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Sea-Dweller 116600 — 40 mm, Cerachrom, 2014–2017 | Rolexopedia
|description=Rolex introduced the 40 mm Sea-Dweller 4000 in 2014. Reference 116600 pairs a Cerachrom bezel and calibre 3135 with the line’s 1,220 m depth rating.
|keywords=Rolex, Sea-Dweller, 116600, 4000, Cerachrom, calibre 3135
|image=Ref 116600 hero.webp
|image_alt=Rolex Sea-Dweller 4000 reference 116600
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|published_time=2026-05-16T03:32:39Z
|modified_time=2026-09-23T15:25:33Z
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
}}

<small>[[Reference:sea-dweller|Sea-Dweller]] › '''116600'''</small>

<div class="rp-lead">
[[File:Ref 116600 hero.webp|thumb|center|640px|alt=Rolex Sea-Dweller 4000 reference 116600|Sea-Dweller 4000, reference 116600]]
</div>

Rolex introduced the Sea-Dweller 4000, reference 116600, at Baselworld in March 2014. It brought the line back to a 40 mm case after the 44 mm Deepsea 116660, while retaining the Sea-Dweller’s 1,220 m depth rating and helium escape valve. The ceramic bezel, Chromalight display and calibre 3135 with a blue Parachrom hairspring were among its main updates. Rolex replaced it with the 43 mm reference 126600 in 2017.

==Core facts==

{| class="wikitable rp-facts"
|-
! detail
! value
|-
| reference
| 116600
|-
| model name
| Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller 4000
|-
| production
| 2014–2017
|-
| case
| 40 mm Oystersteel, screw-down caseback and Triplock crown
|-
| depth rating
| 1,220 m / 4,000 ft
|-
| movement
| calibre 3135, automatic, date, COSC-certified
|-
| crystal
| sapphire, with an unmagnified date
|-
| bezel
| Unidirectional Cerachrom insert; platinum-coated graduations
|-
| dial
| Black, with Chromalight-filled hands and hour markers
|-
| bracelet
| Oyster, reference 97200, with Glidelock and Fliplock extensions
|}

==Place in the line==

The 116600 followed the 40 mm Sea-Dweller 16600, discontinued in 2008, and the larger 116660 Deepsea. It kept the earlier Sea-Dweller’s case diameter and depth rating, while adding a ceramic bezel and the Glidelock clasp adjustment. Rolex’s 2017 successor, the 126600, grew to 43 mm and added a Cyclops magnifier over the date. Its red dial lettering recalled the early red-text Sea-Dwellers.

“Sea-Dweller 4000” was the model name. The depth rating also appears as “4000 ft = 1220 m” on the dial. The informal name “SD4K” is used by collectors and sellers.

==Production and dial==

Rolex’s March 2014 launch material describes a black dial with large Chromalight hour markers and hands. The white-gold marker surrounds and enlarged plots give it the broad-index look collectors call a “Maxi” dial. The date sits at 3 o’clock beneath the flat sapphire crystal. The dial has white “SEA-DWELLER” lettering and the printed depth rating.

The published record documents this standard black-dial configuration. Production totals and proposed factory dial generations remain unverified. A specific watch may have received service parts, so condition and originality need to be assessed on the individual example.

[[File:Ref 116600 dial.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=Black Sea-Dweller 116600 dial with Chromalight hour markers and date|Black dial with Chromalight markers and date]]

==Movement==

The 116600 uses calibre 3135, an automatic movement with date, 31 jewels, a frequency of 28,800 beats per hour and an approximately 48-hour power reserve. Rolex’s launch specification identifies a blue Parachrom hairspring and COSC chronometer certification. Rolex says the alloy resists magnetic fields and temperature variation; its launch material also describes improved shock resistance.

Rolex introduced the Parachrom hairspring in 2005; its 2014 launch specification identifies the blue Parachrom spring in the 116600. Published accounts differ on when it reached late 16600 production, so an inspection of the movement is stronger evidence than a date inferred from the watch’s serial alone.

==Case and bezel==

The 40 mm Oyster case is made from Rolex’s 904L steel, now marketed as Oystersteel. It has a screw-down Triplock crown, a helium escape valve and a fluted screw-down caseback. Rolex rated the watch to 1,220 m (4,000 ft).

[[File:Ref 116600 ceramic-detail.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=Black Cerachrom bezel insert with platinum-coated graduations on a Sea-Dweller 116600|Cerachrom bezel insert and platinum-coated graduations]]

The black Cerachrom insert has a unidirectional 60-minute scale. Rolex’s 2014 specification says its engraved numerals and graduations receive a thin platinum coating by physical vapour deposition. The full minute scale is marked around the bezel. A sapphire crystal covers the date, which is shown without magnification.

The helium escape valve belongs to the Sea-Dweller’s saturation-diving design. During decompression, it releases helium that has entered the case while preserving the watch’s water resistance. The valve’s history and patent are covered on the [[Reference:sea-dweller#Helium escape valve|Sea-Dweller family page]].

==Bracelet and clasp==

The 116600 was supplied on an Oyster bracelet with an Oysterlock safety clasp. Rolex’s launch specification identifies the bracelet as solid three-piece links in 904L steel and lists both extension systems: Glidelock adjusts the fit in 2 mm steps across approximately 20 mm, while the Fliplock link adds 26 mm. Both systems adjust by hand.

==Successor==

In 2017 Rolex replaced the 116600 with the 43 mm 126600. The newer watch retained the 1,220 m rating and Cerachrom bezel, and introduced calibre 3235, a red “SEA-DWELLER” line and a Cyclops over the date. Rolex presented it as the Sea-Dweller’s 50th-anniversary model. The 116600 remains the 40 mm ceramic-bezel Sea-Dweller in this part of the line.

==Related references==

* [[Reference:16600|Sea-Dweller 16600]] — 40 mm predecessor with an aluminium bezel insert.
* Sea-Dweller Deepsea 116660 — the 44 mm model that preceded the 116600.
* Sea-Dweller 126600 — 43 mm successor introduced in 2017.
* [[Reference:sea-dweller|Sea-Dweller family guide]]

<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
File:Ref 116600 main monochrome.webp|Full watch, shown at its 2014 introduction
File:Ref 116600 dial.webp|Black dial and date
File:Ref 116600 ceramic-detail.webp|Cerachrom bezel detail
</gallery>

== Sources ==

* [https://watch-wiki.org/index.php?title=A_new_generation_Oyster_Perpetual_Sea-Dweller_4000 Rolex, "A new generation Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller 4000", Rolex; archived transcription at Watch-Wiki, 2014-03-26]
* [https://www.rolex.com/en-us/about-rolex/history/1971-1992 Rolex, "Rolex History — 1971–1992", Rolex]
* [https://www.rolex.com/en-gb/watchmaking/features/movements/parachrom-hairspring Rolex, "Parachrom hairspring", Rolex]
* [https://rolexpassionreport.com/14294/basel-world-2014-rolex-news-gmt-pepsi-white-gold-ref-116719-sea-dweller-ref-116600-cellini-moonphase/ Rolex Passion Report editorial, "Basel World 2014 Rolex News: Sea-Dweller Ref. 116600", Rolex Passion Report, 2014-03-20]
* [https://watchesbysjx.com/2014/06/up-close-with-the-rolex-sea-dweller-4000-ref-116600-with-live-photos-and-price.html SJX, "Up Close With the Rolex Sea-Dweller 4000 Ref. 116600", SJX Watches, 2014-06-23]
* [https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/reference-points-rolex-sea-dweller Hodinkee editorial, "Reference Points: Understanding the Rolex Sea-Dweller", Hodinkee, 2018]

[[Category:Sea-Dweller]]

Reference:116400

2026-09-29T09:58:55Z

Klaudiusz: Deep audit: remove duplicate Milgauss category tag

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex Milgauss 116400}}
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Milgauss 116400 and 116400GV Reference Guide | Rolexopedia
|description=Reference guide to the Rolex Milgauss 116400 series, produced from 2007 to 2023. Covers the four dial and crystal variants, caliber 3131, and production changes.
|keywords=Rolex 116400, 116400GV, Milgauss, Glace Verte, Z-Blue, caliber 3131
|image=Ref 116400 hero.webp
|image_alt=Rolex Milgauss 116400GV Z-Blue with green Glace Verte crystal and orange lightning-bolt seconds hand.
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|published_time=2026-05-17T05:54:13Z
|modified_time=2026-09-23T00:00:00Z
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
}}

<small>[[Reference:milgauss|Milgauss]] → '''116400'''</small>

<div class="rp-lead">
[[File:Ref 116400 hero.webp|thumb|center|640px|alt=Rolex Milgauss 116400GV Z-Blue with green Glace Verte crystal and orange lightning-bolt seconds hand.|Rolex Milgauss 116400GV Z-Blue.]]
</div>

Rolex brought the Milgauss back in 2007 as reference 116400, after the 1019 left the catalogue in 1988. The 40 mm case kept the smooth bezel and internal magnetic shield, while the orange lightning-bolt seconds hand recalled the 6541. The range included clear-crystal black- and white-dial watches and the green-crystal 116400GV. Rolex added the blue-dial GV in 2014. The Milgauss line ended in 2023.

==Core facts==

{| class="wikitable rp-facts"
|-
! detail
! value
|-
| reference
| 116400 / 116400GV
|-
| production
| 2007–2023
|-
| movement
| Rolex caliber 3131; automatic, time-only, COSC-certified
|-
| case
| 40 mm Oystersteel; internal magnetic shield
|-
| magnetic resistance
| Up to 1,000 gauss
|-
| water resistance
| 100 m / 330 ft
|-
| crystal
| Clear sapphire (116400); green sapphire (116400GV)
|-
| bezel
| Smooth, fixed
|-
| crown
| Twinlock screw-down
|-
| bracelet
| Oyster bracelet with Oysterclasp and Easylink extension
|}

==Where it sits in the line==

The 116400 followed the 1019 after a gap of about nineteen years. Its larger case and more conspicuous dial details updated the Milgauss, while the magnetic shield preserved the line’s defining construction. Rolex discontinued the 116400 series in 2023; the 2023 releases included no replacement.

==Production outline==

===Launch in 2007===

Rolex introduced three versions at Baselworld in 2007: a white dial with clear sapphire, a black dial with clear sapphire, and the black-dial 116400GV with green sapphire. Rolex associated the GV with the Milgauss’s 50th anniversary. Its later brochure describes the green sapphire as “a first in watchmaking,” but does not give production totals.

===Dial and crystal changes===

The 116400-0001 paired a black dial with clear sapphire; the 116400-0002 used a white dial and clear sapphire. Both had the orange lightning-bolt seconds hand. The GV added green-tinted sapphire over a black dial. Collectors commonly call this version “Z-Black,” though Rolex’s product material uses 116400GV.

[[File:Ref 116400 zblue dial.webp|thumb|right|240px|alt=Blue dial of the Rolex Milgauss 116400GV Z-Blue beneath its green sapphire crystal.|The Z-Blue dial beneath the green crystal.]]

Rolex introduced the 116400GV-0002, known as Z-Blue, in 2014. Its blue dial is viewed through the same green crystal. Published accounts place the end of the clear-crystal black version around 2013–2014; Phillips dates the end of both non-GV versions to 2016. Those accounts do not establish the exact last-production year of the black dial. The white-dial version was gone by 2016. Both GV dials remained until the line’s 2023 discontinuation.

The image gallery below shows the Z-Blue dial and a second GV dial view. Dial colors can look different under the green crystal and changing light; color descriptions alone do not identify a service or replacement dial.

<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
File:Ref 116400 zblue dial.webp|Z-Blue dial beneath green sapphire
File:Ref 116400 gv_dial.webp|116400GV dial and Glace Verte crystal
File:Ref 116400 z-blue.webp|116400GV Z-Blue
</gallery>

===Movement===

Caliber 3131 is an automatic, time-only movement with a date-free dial. Rolex’s brochure lists a Parachrom hairspring, bidirectional winding, stop-seconds, about 48 hours of power reserve, and a Superlative Chronometer specification of −2/+2 seconds per day after casing. It also describes the movement as protected by an internal magnetic shield. Monochrome reports 31 jewels and a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour.

==Case and bracelet==

The Oyster case measures 40 mm and is made from Rolex Oystersteel, an alloy in the 904L family. The green-crystal GV and clear-crystal versions share the same case dimensions, smooth bezel, Twinlock crown, and 100 m water-resistance rating. Rolex describes the shield as ferromagnetic alloys surrounding the movement; the shield carries a “B” with an arrow, the symbol for magnetic flux density.

Rolex specifies an Oyster bracelet with flat three-piece links, an Oysterclasp, and a 5 mm Easylink comfort extension. Contemporary parts references identify bracelet 72400 for the 116400. Bracelet parts can be replaced during service, so a bracelet number alone does not establish original delivery on an individual watch.

==Dating notes==

The reference was sold during Rolex’s transition from letter-prefix serial numbers to random serials. A serial can help place a watch within a broad period, but the 116400’s full catalogue span is sixteen years and serial ranges overlap production and delivery dates. Use the [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial-number guide]] for the limits of serial dating; a serial alone does not establish the year a watch was made or first sold.

==Related references==

* [[Reference:6541|Milgauss 6541]]
* [[Reference:1019|Milgauss 1019]]
* [[Reference:Movements|Movement reference guide]]
* [[Reference:Serial-numbers|Serial-number guide]]

<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
File:Ref 116400 hero.webp|116400GV Z-Blue, full watch
File:Ref 116400 z-blue.webp|116400GV Z-Blue
File:Ref 116400 zblue dial.webp|Z-Blue dial detail
File:Ref 116400 gv_dial.webp|GV dial detail
</gallery>

== Sources ==

* [https://content.rolex.com/dam/media/brochures/milgauss/m116400gv-0002.pdf Rolex, Milgauss brochure for reference 116400GV-0002] — case, crystal, crown, movement, accuracy, magnetic shield, and bracelet specifications.
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/history-rolex-milgauss-collection-in-depth-review/ Monochrome Watches, “The Complete History of the Rolex Milgauss”] — reference chronology, dial variants, and movement specifications.
* [https://www.phillips.com/article/122097700/rolex-milgauss-vintage-1019-6541-discontinued Phillips, “What’s the Legacy of the Rolex Milgauss?”] — 116400 launch variants, Z-Blue introduction, and discontinuation chronology.
* [https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-rolex-milgauss-is-now-discontinued Hodinkee, “The Rolex Milgauss Is Now Discontinued”] — 2023 discontinuation.
* [https://www.minus4plus6.com/RolexPricelist/2011/2011_usa_price_list.pdf Rolex USA price list, 2011] — reference 116400 and bracelet 72400.

[[Category:Milgauss]]

Reference:116509

2026-09-29T09:56:02Z

Klaudiusz: Deep audit: clean 116509 gallery and related-reference prose

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex 116509 Daytona}}
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Daytona 116509 — White Gold on Oyster Bracelet | Rolexopedia
|description=Reference guide to the Rolex Daytona 116509: its 2004 introduction, Calibre 4130, white-gold bracelet, documented dial examples and auction record.
|keywords=Rolex 116509, Daytona 116509, white gold Daytona, cal 4130, meteorite dial, chrysoprase dial, turquoise dial, sodalite APH dial, 78499 bracelet
|image=Ref 116509 hero.webp
|image_alt=Rolex Cosmograph Daytona 116509 in 18k white gold with black dial and white gold Oyster bracelet
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|published_time=2026-08-10T07:14:47Z
|modified_time=2026-09-25T08:54:19Z
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
}}

<small>[[Reference:daytona|Daytona]] › '''116509'''</small>

<div class="rp-lead">
[[File:Ref 116509 hero.webp|thumb|center|640px|alt=Rolex Daytona reference 116509 in white gold with a black dial and matching Oyster bracelet|Rolex Daytona reference 116509 in white gold with a black dial and matching Oyster bracelet]]
</div>

The 116509 is a 40 mm Daytona in 18 ct white gold, with a matching Oyster bracelet and an engraved white-gold tachymetric bezel. It uses Calibre 4130. Christie's dates its introduction to 2004. Rolex introduced the successor 126509 with Calibre 4131 in 2023. Auction catalogues document several dial configurations, but they do not provide a complete factory dial list.

== Core facts ==

{| class="wikitable rp-facts"
! detail !! value
|-
| reference || 116509
|-
| family || Cosmograph Daytona
|-
| production || introduced 2004; succeeded in 2023
|-
| case || 40 mm, 18 ct white gold
|-
| crystal || sapphire; no date magnifier
|-
| bezel || fixed, engraved tachymetric scale in 18 ct white gold
|-
| crown || screw-down Triplock
|-
| movement || automatic Calibre 4130, chronometer-certified
|-
| frequency || 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
|-
| power reserve || approximately 72 hours
|-
| jewels || 44
|-
| water resistance || 100 m / 330 ft
|-
| bracelet || 18 ct white-gold Oyster; references 78499 and 78599 are documented
|-
| clasp || Oysterlock; Easylink depends on bracelet version
|-
| serials || letter prefixes followed by randomized alphanumeric serials around 2010; see [[Reference:Serial-numbers]]
|-
| predecessor || 16519, white gold on leather with Calibre 4030
|-
| successor || 126509, Calibre 4131
|-
| related references || 116520 steel; 116523 Rolesor; 116519 white gold on leather
|}

== Where it sits in the line ==

Rolex introduced the first automatic Daytona with its own Calibre 4130 in 2000. The launch line included steel and gold versions; the white-gold 116519 used a leather strap. Christie's dates the 116509 to 2004 and identifies it as the first Daytona offered with a white-gold Oyster bracelet. Its earlier white-gold predecessor, the 16519, used Zenith-derived Calibre 4030 and a leather strap. The 116509 therefore belongs to the in-house 4130 generation, not the earlier Zenith run.

The later 116519LN added a Cerachrom bezel and Oysterflex bracelet to the white-gold Daytona line in 2017. The 116509 retained its engraved gold bezel and metal bracelet. In 2023, Rolex replaced the 4130 generation with Calibre 4131; the current white-gold bracelet model is reference 126509.

== Production outline ==

Auction records place the 116509 in production from 2004. Rolex introduced the 126509 and Calibre 4131 in 2023, which gives a reasonable endpoint for the 116509 run. The sources here do not establish exact serial cutoffs for either year. Rolex's randomized serials began around 2010, during the final letter-prefix period; after that change, a case serial does not provide a public production-year chart. A dated guarantee can anchor an individual watch more closely.

The APH spacing error in “COSMOGRAPH” is documented on some 116520 dials by Phillips. Bonhams catalogued one 116509 with the same spacing: a sodalite dial with diamond-set indexes, circa 2011. That lot extends the documented examples to white gold; it does not establish an APH production range for the 116509.

== Movement notes ==

Calibre 4130 is a self-winding chronograph with a column wheel and vertical clutch. Rolex's technical account says the movement reduced the chronograph mechanism's component count by 60 per cent compared with its predecessor. It also combined the hour and minute counter mechanisms in one module on one side of the movement, leaving room for a larger mainspring and a power reserve of about 72 hours. Auction catalogues identify Calibre 4130 with 44 jewels; the movement reference page records a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour.

Rolex introduced a Parachrom hairspring with Calibre 4130 in 2000. The alloy was not blue at first: Rolex says it began applying the blue surface treatment in 2005. That distinction matters when comparing early 4130 examples with later movements. The 4130 remained in the Daytona line until Rolex introduced Calibre 4131 in 2023. See [[Reference:Movements#cal-4130|Calibre 4130]] for the broader technical comparison.

== Dial map ==

The examples below are identified in auction catalogues. Their guarantee dates and catalogue descriptions document individual watches; they do not establish the start or end of a dial option. The auction houses also differ in how they describe dial colors and materials. For example, Christie's suggested that the yellow mother-of-pearl dial on one circa-2004 watch may have been mounted at an owner's request.

<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
File:Ref 116509 dial-blue.webp|alt=Blue dial on a Rolex Daytona 116509|Blue dial, circa 2005 example, Antiquorum, Hong Kong, 2019
File:Ref 116509 dial-chrysoprase.webp|alt=Green chrysoprase dial on a Rolex Daytona 116509|Green chrysoprase dial, Christie's, New York, 2022
File:Ref 116509 dial-turquoise.webp|alt=Turquoise dial with Roman numerals on a Rolex Daytona 116509|Turquoise dial with Roman numerals, Christie's, Dubai, 2023
File:Ref 116509 dial-sodalite-aph.webp|alt=Sodalite dial with diamond-set indexes and APH spacing on a Rolex Daytona 116509|Sodalite dial with diamond-set indexes and APH spacing, Bonhams, Hong Kong, 2026
</gallery>

{| class="wikitable"
! documented dial !! catalogue evidence and limits
|-
| Black || Christie's catalogued a black dial on a 2006-manufactured example in 2011 and another circa-2007 example in 2022. The examples have applied Arabic numerals and red details; the catalogues do not establish a single black-dial layout for the full run.
|-
| Blue || Antiquorum catalogued a circa-2005 example with its certificate of origin. Christie's later recorded a blue dial with a 2021 guarantee. These are dated examples, not a complete introduction-to-discontinuation range.
|-
| Meteorite || An Antiquorum lot had a warranty recording a July 2006 retail date. Bonhams also catalogued a meteorite-dial example purchased in 2013. The 2006 warranty establishes an early example, not the start of production.
|-
| Chrysoprase || Christie's catalogued one example with a 2006 guarantee and another with a 2016 guarantee. In the latter lot essay, Christie's said the dial may have been mounted at the owner's request; that example alone does not establish factory fitment.
|-
| Turquoise || Christie's catalogued a circa-2005 example with applied Roman numerals in 2023.
|-
| Sodalite || Bonhams catalogued a circa-2011 sodalite dial with diamond-set indexes and APH spacing in 2026. This is one documented example.
|-
| Silver racing || Bonhams catalogued a silver “race” dial on a circa-2006 example in 2023. The auction record establishes the described watch, not a production range.
|-
| Mother-of-pearl || Phillips catalogued a 2021 example with a Tahitian mother-of-pearl dial and diamond indexes. Christie's also catalogued a circa-2004 yellow mother-of-pearl dial and noted that it might have been owner-requested. Those records do not establish how many mother-of-pearl versions were factory options.
|}

=== Meteorite examples ===

The two images show catalogued meteorite dials, not a complete visual record of the variant. The 2006 warranty date is the earliest delivery evidence among the cited lots.

<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
File:Ref 116509 dial-meteorite.webp|alt=Meteorite dial on a Rolex Daytona 116509|Meteorite dial — Bonhams, London, 2020
File:Ref 116509 dial-meteorite-detail.webp|alt=Close view of the meteorite pattern on a Rolex Daytona 116509|Meteorite dial detail — Antiquorum, Geneva, 2022
</gallery>

== Case, bezel, crystal, and crown ==

Christie's catalogues the case at 40 mm. It is made from 18 ct white gold, with a fixed bezel engraved with a tachymetric scale. The crystal is sapphire, and the date-free dial has no Cyclops magnifier. The screw-down Triplock crown and pushers are part of the case's 100 m water-resistance system. Unscrew the pushers before using the chronograph and screw them down again afterward.

== Bracelets, end links, and clasps ==

The reference was sold with a matching white-gold Oyster bracelet. Auction catalogues identify 78499 on several examples. A June 2012 Rolex price list specifies 78599 for the 116509 and also lists 78499 as a white-gold Oysterlock bracelet available for replacement; it describes 78599 as an Oysterlock with Easylink. The list documents both part numbers but does not give the original-production changeover. Check the bracelet and clasp on the individual watch rather than assigning a bracelet number from its case serial.

Rolex describes Easylink as a folding extension that adds about 5 mm. The clasp date code dates the bracelet, not the watch head. The clasp-code chart and its limits are covered in [[Reference:Bracelets]].
[[File:Ref 116509 bracelet-detail.webp|thumb|right|240px|alt=White-gold Oyster bracelet and engraved bezel on a Rolex Daytona 116509|White-gold Oyster bracelet and engraved bezel]]

== Auction record ==

These sales document individual watches and their reported results. They are not a price guide or a comparable market series. Christie's and Bonhams publish prices including buyer's premium; the Antiquorum figures below are the results published by the house.

{| class="wikitable"
! auction !! lot !! sale date !! catalogue description !! result
|-
| Christie's, Important Watches, Hong Kong || 2017 || 30 May 2011 || Black dial; case Z821685, manufactured 2006 || HKD 187,500
|-
| Antiquorum, Hong Kong || 261 || 27 Oct 2019 || Blue dial; case D944961, circa 2005; bracelet recorded as 78499 || HKD 193,750
|-
| Bonhams, Fine Watches, New Bond Street || 20 || 11 Dec 2020 || Meteorite dial; purchased in 2013 || GBP 31,500
|-
| Antiquorum, Geneva || 313 || 6 Nov 2022 || Brown meteorite dial; warranty records July 2006 retail || CHF 60,000
|-
| Christie's, Watches Online: The Dubai Edit || 138 || 26 Oct 2022 || Chrysoprase dial; 2016 guarantee || USD 126,000
|-
| Christie's, Important Watches, New York || 59 || 8 Dec 2022 || Chrysoprase dial; 2006 guarantee || USD 52,920
|-
| Bonhams, Luxury Online, Hong Kong || 1066 || Aug 2023 || Silver racing dial; circa 2006 || HKD 243,200
|-
| Christie's, Watches Online: The Dubai Edit || 95 || 19 Oct 2023 || Turquoise dial with Roman numerals; circa 2005 || USD 107,100
|-
| Christie's, Watches Online: The New York Edit || 204 || 14 Jun 2024 || Blue dial; 2021 guarantee || USD 47,880
|-
| Bonhams, Luxury Online, Hong Kong || 1034 || Feb 2026 || Sodalite dial, diamond indexes and APH spacing; circa 2011 || HKD 537,400
|}

== Related references ==

* [[Reference:116520|Daytona 116520]], steel, Calibre 4130
* [[Reference:116523|Daytona 116523]], Rolesor, Calibre 4130
* [[Reference:116528|Daytona 116528]], yellow gold, Calibre 4130
* [[Reference:116518|Daytona 116518]], yellow gold on leather
* [[Reference:16519|Daytona 16519]], white gold, Zenith-derived Calibre 4030, leather strap
* [[Reference:116519LN|Daytona 116519LN]], white gold, Cerachrom bezel, Oysterflex
* [[Reference:116506|Daytona 116506]], platinum, 50th-anniversary model

See also the [[Reference:daytona|Daytona family index]], [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|bracelet and clasp guide]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial-number guide]].

<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
File:Ref 116509 hero.webp|alt=Rolex Daytona reference 116509 in white gold with black dial and Oyster bracelet|116509, black dial
File:Ref 116509 dial-blue.webp|alt=Blue dial on a Rolex Daytona 116509|Blue dial, circa 2005 example
File:Ref 116509 dial-chrysoprase.webp|alt=Green chrysoprase dial on a Rolex Daytona 116509|Green chrysoprase dial
File:Ref 116509 dial-turquoise.webp|alt=Turquoise dial with Roman numerals on a Rolex Daytona 116509|Turquoise dial with Roman numerals
File:Ref 116509 dial-sodalite-aph.webp|alt=Sodalite dial with diamond indexes and APH spacing on a Rolex Daytona 116509|Sodalite dial, diamond indexes and APH spacing
File:Ref 116509 dial-meteorite.webp|alt=Meteorite dial on a Rolex Daytona 116509|Meteorite dial
File:Ref 116509 dial-meteorite-detail.webp|alt=Close view of the meteorite pattern on a Rolex Daytona 116509|Meteorite dial detail
File:Ref 116509 bracelet-detail.webp|alt=White-gold Oyster bracelet and engraved bezel on a Rolex Daytona 116509|White-gold Oyster bracelet and engraved bezel
</gallery>

== Sources ==

* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5448619 Rolex Cosmograph Daytona ref. 116509, black dial — Important Watches, Hong Kong, lot 2017, 2011]
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6407894 Rolex Cosmograph Daytona ref. 116509, black dial, circa 2007 — Christie's]
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6407946 Rolex Cosmograph Daytona ref. 116509, chrysoprase dial — Important Watches, New York, lot 59, 2022]
* [https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/watches-online-dubai-edit/rolex-daytona-ref-116509-rare-gold-chronograph-stunning-chrysoprase-138/165632 Rolex Cosmograph Daytona ref. 116509, chrysoprase dial — Dubai Edit, lot 138, 2022]
* [https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/watches-online-dubai-edit/rolex-daytona-ref-116509-rare-attractive-18k-white-gold-chronograph-95/196013 Rolex Cosmograph Daytona ref. 116509, turquoise dial — Dubai Edit, lot 95, 2023]
* [https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/watches-online-new-york-edit/rolex-white-gold-daytona-ref-116509-204/224604 Rolex Cosmograph Daytona ref. 116509, blue dial — New York Edit, lot 204, 2024]
* [https://www.christies.com/lot/lot-6450317 Rolex Daytona ref. 116509, yellow mother-of-pearl dial — Christie's, circa 2004]
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/25959/lot/20/rolex-an-unusual-18k-white-gold-automatic-chronograph-bracelet-watch-with-meteorite-dial-cosmograph-daytona-ref-116509-purchased-30th-january-2013/ Rolex Cosmograph Daytona ref. 116509, meteorite dial — Fine Watches, London, lot 20, 2020]
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/28693/lot/1066/rolex-or-cosmograph-daytona-ref116509-a-white-gold-chronograph-bracelet-watch-with-race-dial-circa-2006/ Rolex Cosmograph Daytona ref. 116509, silver racing dial — Hong Kong, lot 1066, 2023]
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/32047/lot/1034/rolex-or-cosmograph-daytona-ref116509-a-rare-and-exclusive-white-gold-chronograph-bracelet-watch-with-aph-sodalite-dial-and-diamond-set-indexes-circa-2011/ Rolex Cosmograph Daytona ref. 116509, sodalite dial with APH spacing — Hong Kong, lot 1034, 2026]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-116509-cosmograph-daytona-lot-355-313 Rolex Cosmograph Daytona ref. 116509, brown meteorite dial — Geneva, lot 313, 2022]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-116509-daytona-lot-323-261 Rolex Cosmograph Daytona ref. 116509, blue dial — Hong Kong, lot 261, 2019]
* [https://www.phillips.com/zh/detail/rolex/207670 Rolex Cosmograph Daytona ref. 116509, Tahitian mother-of-pearl dial with diamond indexes — Geneva Sessions, lot 63, 2024]
* [https://www.phillips.com/article/127946519/rolex-daytona-aph-dial-116520 Logan Baker, “How a Kerning Mistake Created a More Desirable Daytona” — Phillips, 2023]
* [https://www.phillips.com/article/76489537/the-rolex-daytonas-stone-age The Rolex Daytona’s Stone Age — Phillips]
* [https://newsroom.rolex.com/-/media/project/rolex/newsroom/rolex/rolex-newsroom-int/watches/thematic-presskit/cosmograph-daytona-brochure/02_brochure_cosmograph_daytona_english.pdf A Chronograph Born to Race — Rolex technical press kit, Calibre 4130]
* [https://newsroom-content.rolex.com/-/media/project/rolex/newsroom/rolex/rolex-newsroom-int/brochures/en/02_rolex_parachrom_hairspring_english_2021.pdf The Parachrom Hairspring — Rolex, 2021]
* [https://www.rolex.com/en-us/watchmaking/features/movements/parachrom-hairspring Parachrom hairspring — Rolex]
* [https://newsroom.rolex.com/watches/new-watches-2024/cosmograph-daytona The new Cosmograph Daytona — Rolex Newsroom; Calibre 4131 introduced in 2023]
* [https://www.rolex.com/watches/cosmograph-daytona/m126509-0001 Cosmograph Daytona ref. 126509 technical specifications — Rolex]
* [https://newsroom-content.rolex.com/-/media/project/rolex/newsroom/rolex/rolex-newsroom-int/brochures/en/02_rolex_bracelet_extension_systems_english_2021.pdf Rolex bracelet extension systems — Rolex, 2021]
* [https://www.minus4plus6.com/pdf/Rolex_Price_List_June-1-2012.pdf Rolex price list, June 2012 — reproduced scan, bracelet references 78499 and 78599]
* [https://revolutionwatch.com/a-movement-in-history-the-zenith-driven-rolex-daytona/ Ross Povey, “A Movement in History: The Zenith-driven Rolex Daytona” — Revolution, 2018]
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/history-rolex-daytona-chronograph-1963-in-depth-review/ Erik Slaven, “The History of the Rolex Daytona” — Monochrome, 2024]

[[Category:Daytona]]
[[Category:Daytona In-House Gen 1]]

Reference:114200

2026-09-29T09:54:56Z

Klaudiusz: Deep audit: correct 114200 bezel, bracelet and transition wording

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex 114200 Air-King}}
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Air-King 114200, 34mm COSC reference, 2007–2014 | Rolexopedia
|description=The Rolex 114200 is a 34mm steel Air-King made as an Air-King from 2007 to 2014, with caliber 3130, COSC dial text, an engraved rehaut, and several concentric and numeral dials. A 2013 Domino's Pizza presentation watch is documented at Christie's.
|keywords=Rolex, 114200, Air-King, COSC chronometer, Cal 3130, concentric wave dial, engraved rehaut
|image=Ref 114200 hero.webp
|image_alt=Rolex 114200 Air-King silver concentric dial
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|published_time=2026-05-02T02:33:36Z
|modified_time=2026-08-04T00:06:50Z
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
}}

<small>[[Reference:air-king|Air-King]] › '''114200'''</small>

<div class="rp-lead">
[[File:Ref 114200 hero.webp|thumb|center|640px|alt=Rolex Air-King 114200, silver concentric "wave" dial, c.2010|Rolex Air-King 114200, silver concentric "wave" dial, c.2010]]
</div>

The 114200 is the 34mm steel Air-King sold from 2007 to 2014. It uses caliber 3130, an engraved rehaut, and the "Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified" dial line. Earlier Air-King references used non-chronometer movements, so the 114200 is the first Air-King reference in the published line with COSC wording. Rolex returned the Air-King name in 2016 on the 40mm 116900, a different case and dial design.

The reference was offered with several dial layouts: concentric or wave surfaces in multiple colours, Explorer-style 3-6-9 numerals, Roman numerals, and full Arabic numerals. The exact catalogue mix changed by market and year; the surviving examples do not establish a complete option list. Christie's records a 2013 Domino's Pizza presentation watch with a 114200 case, caliber 3130, original guarantee, and a logo on the caseback and bracelet plaque.

<span id="core-facts"></span>

==Core facts==

{| class="wikitable rp-facts"
|-
! detail
! value
|-
| reference
| 114200 (engine-turned bezel sister: 114210; white-gold-bezel sibling: 114234)
|-
| family
| Air-King
|-
| production
| 2007–2014 as an Air-King; later Oyster Perpetual 34 watches also used the bare number 114200
|-
| case
| 34mm × ~11.6mm × 41.7mm L2L stainless steel Oyster, smooth bezel, 19mm non-drilled lugs
|-
| crystal
| sapphire
|-
| crown
| Twinlock screw-down
|-
| movement
| caliber 3130, automatic, 28,800 vph, about 48-hour reserve, hacking seconds, Parachrom hairspring; catalogues report 27 or 31 jewels
|-
| chronometer
| yes, first COSC-certified Air-King; dial reads "SUPERLATIVE CHRONOMETER OFFICIALLY CERTIFIED"
|-
| rehaut
| engraved with repeating "ROLEX ROLEX ROLEX" + serial number, post-2005 Rolex convention; present on 114200 from launch
|-
| water resistance
| 100m
|-
| bracelet
| 78350 19mm Oyster with 557B solid end-links, 904L steel
|-
| caseback
| screw-down threaded Oyster, smooth exterior
|-
| predecessor
| 14000M (2000–2006, Cal 3130 without engraved rehaut, non-COSC)
|-
| successor
| 116900 (2016, 40mm redesign)
|}

<span id="where-it-sits-in-the-line"></span>
== Where it sits in the line ==

The 114200 follows the 14000M in the 34mm Air-King line. The earlier references use non-chronometer movements and vary between Air-King and Oyster Perpetual dial text; the 114200 adds caliber 3130 with chronometer dial wording. The 116900 returns in 2016 as a 40mm redesign.

The no-date Cal. 3130 architecture is shared with the 14060M Submariner, which picked up COSC dial text in later production, and with the [[Reference:114270|114270 Explorer]]. The earlier 14270 Explorer belongs to the Cal. 3000 generation, and the Yacht-Master date references use a different movement family. Cal. 3130 runs across several Rolex time-only references introduced from 1999 onward; later 32xx calibers replace it in newer generations. The 114200 shares the 3130, engraved rehaut, and COSC period with those siblings.

The 114210 uses an engine-turned bezel and the 114234 a fluted white-gold bezel in the same case family. Both were offered alongside the smooth-bezel 114200 during the same period and use caliber 3130, but they remain separate reference numbers.

The Air-King name disappears from the catalogue after 2014 and returns in 2016 on the 40mm 116900. That is a new design rather than a 34mm continuation.

<span id="production-outline"></span>
== Production outline ==

Marcus Siems' Air-King family history (September 2025), Erik Slaven at Monochrome (January 2025), Robb Report's Air-King guide (Allen Farmelo and Gareth Munden, September 2024) and Watch-Wiki all give 2007 as the introduction year. The 114200 ships at Baselworld 2007 alongside the 114210 engine-turned-bezel sister and the 114234 white-gold-bezel sibling, and the three trade in parallel through to 2014.

The Air-King is absent from the catalogue after 2014. Robin Nooy's 2016 Monochrome review describes the 116900 as a return after the line was dropped from the collection.

Some secondary sources extend the date to 2016 by counting the return of the name on the 116900. The Air-King reference histories cited here use 2007–2014 for the 114200 itself.

Rolex catalogues also used the bare number 114200 for Oyster Perpetual 34 watches after the Air-King left the line. Those watches carry Oyster Perpetual dial text, so a 2007–2020 date range can combine two different uses of the reference number. This page covers the Air-King version through 2014.

Most surviving examples are documented through dealer and regional auction listings. Christie's records a full-set Domino's Pizza 114200 from 2013, case 96A51575. A 2025 Heritage lot records a standard 34mm 114200 with caliber 3130 and 31 jewels; a current Ineichen listing gives the Air-King production span as 2007–2014.

<span id="movement-notes"></span>
== Movement notes ==

The 114200 runs Cal. 3130, the same movement fitted to the contemporary 14060M Submariner and the [[Reference:114270|114270 Explorer]] and used across the Rolex time-only catalogue from 1999 / 2000 through 2018: 28,800 vph (4 Hz), roughly 48 hours of reserve, hacking seconds, bidirectional self-winding, and the blue paramagnetic Parachrom hairspring Rolex rolled out from c.2005, present on the 114200 from launch.

Published catalogues give both 27 and 31 jewels for the 114200-era caliber 3130. Current auction records from Christie's and Heritage list 31; the Air-King family history cited on the page lists 27. The discrepancy is unresolved and is not a reliable way to identify a watch.

The 114200's COSC wording distinguishes it from the earlier 14000M. The 14000M also uses caliber 3130, but its published dials read Precision and its movements were not certified as chronometers in the cited references.

The 14000M and 114200 share caliber 3130. The 114200 movements were certified as chronometers, while the 14000M examples cited here were not.

<span id="case-and-construction"></span>
== Case and construction ==

34mm across, approximately 11.6mm thick, 41.7mm lug to lug, a three-piece stainless steel Oyster of case middle, threaded caseback and threaded crown. Nominal dimensions match the 14000M, though the 114200 wears heavier than its predecessor. Lugs are 19mm with non-drilled spring-bar holes, following the 14000-era convention. The bezel on the 114200 is fixed, smooth steel; the engine-turned version lives on the 114210.

The crystal is sapphire and the crown a Twinlock screw-down. Water resistance stays at 100m, unchanged from the 14000 era.

Every 114200 is steel. No precious-metal example surfaces in the auction record, and the gold-trimmed Air-Kings of the 2007–2014 window carry their own reference numbers, the 114234 white-gold-bezel sibling, and the gem-set sub-variants that sit outside this reference entirely.

<span id="engraved-rehaut"></span>
== Engraved rehaut ==

The 114200 has the engraved rehaut from launch in 2007. The inner ring around the dial carries repeating "ROLEX ROLEX ROLEX" text plus the watch's serial number, matched to the serial engraved between the lugs. The convention was in use across Rolex by the mid-2000s. Late 14000M examples may show an engraved rehaut, while the cited 114200 records show it as standard.

The rehaut text is engraved rather than printed. The serial should be compared with the case and paperwork, but rehaut appearance alone is not an authenticity test.

<span id="dial-map"></span>
== Dial map ==

The 114200 record includes concentric or wave dials in silver, black, blue, green, salmon, white, and champagne, along with applied sticks, Explorer-style 3-6-9 numerals, Roman numerals, and full Arabic numerals. These are documented configurations, not a complete global catalogue. Surface descriptions include sunburst, brushed, and matte finishes.

"Tutti Frutti" is a Yacht-Master nickname for gem-set multicolour bezels. It should not be used for the 114200's coloured concentric dials.

<span id="silver-concentric"></span>
=== Silver concentric (wave) ===

Silver examples use a sunburst outer ring and concentric circles to the chapter ring, with applied sticks or batons and the chronometer wording above six.

<span id="black-concentric"></span>
=== Black concentric (wave) ===

Black examples use the same concentric pattern on a darker ground. Published listings describe both matte and more reflective surfaces.

<span id="blue-concentric-orange-arabic"></span>
=== Blue concentric with orange Arabic numerals ===

Blue concentric examples are documented with applied orange Arabic numerals at every hour and, in some descriptions, no luminous fill. Listings call them blue concentric or blue 114200 dials; market pricing varies by condition and configuration.

<span id="pink-salmon-concentric"></span>
=== Pink salmon concentric ===

Salmon ground with the concentric pattern, applied stick or Roman numeral indices. The 14000-era salmon palette carries over to the 114200 and picks up the concentric finish.

<span id="green-concentric"></span>
=== Green concentric ===

Sunburst green outer with a concentric inner section, usually applied stick markers. Green is listed among the catalogue colours in the Air-King histories cited here.

<span id="3-6-9-explorer"></span>
=== 3-6-9 Explorer dial ===

The Explorer layout the 5500 made famous and the 14000 carried over continues here: Arabic numerals at three, six and nine with batons or sticks elsewhere, on a black or silvered ground that may be concentric or flat. Erik Slaven at Monochrome calls it "a standard arrangement" on the 114200, a catalogue option rather than a rarity.

<span id="roman-numeral"></span>
=== Roman numeral dial ===

Roman numerals at every hour or at the cardinal positions, on silvered, black or salmon grounds. Roman-numeral examples use the same case and movement with a more Datejust-like dial layout.

<span id="arabic-numeral"></span>
=== Applied Arabic numeral dial ===

A full set of applied Arabic numerals at every hour rather than the 3-6-9 Explorer subset, on silvered or black grounds.

<span id="silver-369-pink-lume"></span>
=== Silver 3-6-9 with pink lume markers ===

A separate branch, documented on full-set 2012 examples. The ground stays silver; the color sits in the pink luminous blocks of a 3-6-9 layout. It is not the salmon concentric dial under another name, and it is a dial execution worth recording rather than a nickname category of its own.

<span id="bracelets"></span>
== Bracelets ==

The 114200 uses a 19mm Oyster bracelet in the same stainless-steel family as the case. Published examples commonly show bracelet 78350 with 557B end-links and an Oysterclasp with a 5mm Easylink comfort extension. Bracelet and clasp fitment should be checked on the individual watch.

The bracelet and clasp details distinguish documented 114200 examples from earlier 14000M listings, but the cited sources do not establish a single change point for every component.

Some surviving listings show a Jubilee bracelet, but the cited material does not establish it as a standard factory option for every dial variant. Bracelet originality needs watch-specific documentation.

<span id="special-branches"></span>
== Special branches ==

<span id="dominos-pizza-114200"></span>
=== Domino's Pizza 114200 ===

The Domino's Pizza incentive program carried on from the 5500 and 14000 era to the 114200. Christie's "Jewels and Watches Online: La Dolce Vita" sale 21040, lot 136 documents one: c.2013, case 96A51575, Cal. 3130, full set with original box and papers. The dial is a silvered Explorer 3-6-9 with Arabic numerals at three, six and nine, the Domino's logo sits on a center bracelet link rather than on the dial itself, and the awardee's commemorative engraving is on the caseback.

[[File:Ref 114200 dominos detail.webp|thumb|right|260px|alt=Rolex 114200 Dominos detail|Rolex Air-King 114200 Dominos Pizza, dial logo + caseback commemorative engraving]]

Christie's condition report gives the dial as clean and original with only light case wear, and the lot kept its original guarantee and sales tag. The original guarantee and sales tag tie the watch to a 2013 delivery and support the caseback and bracelet presentation described in the lot.

This is one documented Domino's Air-King example. The guarantee and presentation packaging tie it to a 2013 delivery; they do not establish how many such watches were made.

<span id="114210-engine-turned-bezel"></span>
=== 114210 engine-turned-bezel sibling ===

The 114210 is the engine-turned-bezel sibling of the 114200. The 114234 uses a fluted white-gold bezel. All three references belong to the same 34mm Air-King generation and use caliber 3130.

<span id="114234-white-gold-bezel"></span>
=== 114234 white-gold-bezel sibling ===

A steel case with a fluted white-gold bezel set into the case middle, otherwise a 114200: same case middle, same Cal. 3130, same dial palette. It is the precious-metal-trim sibling of the steel 114200; prices depend on the bezel, dial, condition, and papers.

<span id="signed-and-commemorative"></span>
=== Signed and commemorative dials ===

The sources reviewed through 2025 do not document Tiffany & Co.-signed, Cartier-signed, or government-crest 114200 dials. That absence is not proof that none exist.

<span id="historical-market-and-auction-record"></span>
== Historical market and auction record ==

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Sale !! Lot !! Year !! Reference details !! Result
|-
| Christie's Jewels and Watches Online "La Dolce Vita" || 136 || 2013 manufacture || 114200 Domino's Pizza, case 96A51575, Cal. 3130, full set || result not shown on current lot page
|-
| Heritage Contemporary Classics || 12043 || 2025 || 114200, 34mm, silver concentric, Cal. 3130, 31 jewels || USD 8,750
|}

The table is a small set of public records, not a census. Christie's supplies the detailed Domino's provenance; Heritage supplies a current standard-watch result. Regional listings add examples but do not establish production totals or a fixed market value.

Prices vary with dial, bracelet, condition, and paperwork. The public records above are better read as dated examples than as a valuation range.

<span id="the-114200-to-116900-redesign"></span>
== The 114200-to-116900 redesign ==

The Air-King 34mm references leave the catalogue by 2014. Rolex returned to the name at Baselworld 2016 with the 40mm 116900, a separate case and dial design. Robin Nooy's Monochrome review describes it as a return after the line had been dropped.

The 116900 changes to a 40mm case, stylized Arabic numerals, a green seconds hand, a heavier AIR-KING wordmark, and a soft-iron inner case. Its design is separate from the 34mm 114200.

The 114200 is the final 34mm Air-King reference before the 2016 40mm redesign. The 116900 and 2022 126900 use a different case and dial language.

<span id="authentication"></span>
== Authentication ==

Verify a 114200 by checking the rehaut, case, movement, dial, bracelet, and paperwork together. The rehaut serial should agree with the case serial and the guarantee when those records are original; a mismatch requires investigation rather than a single automatic conclusion.

The case stamp inside the caseback should read 114200. Early examples can be checked against late letter-prefix serial ranges, but Rolex moved to randomized alphanumeric serials around 2010; on later 114200s the serial alone will not assign a production year, and the warranty card or sale record becomes the stronger date anchor.

The movement should be Cal. 3130. A Cal. 3000 in a 114200 is a swap out of the 14000 generation and wrong for the reference; a Cal. 3132 or any 32XX is equally wrong here, though those are genuine Rolex movements from elsewhere in the catalogue rather than invented calibers. The movement should carry the 3130 architecture and its service history should be checked; the hairspring is not a substitute for a full movement inspection.

Inspect the concentric finish under magnification, but do not treat texture alone as an authenticity test. A replacement or refinished dial can retain the correct pattern while differing in printing, lume, or surface finish.

Published 114200 examples commonly use a 78350 Oyster with 557B end-links, but bracelets and clasps are replaceable. End-link, clasp, and bracelet dates should be compared with the watch's delivery records rather than treated as automatic proof of replacement.

The reference is recent, but service and replacement parts still occur. A clean example needs the same case, dial, movement, bracelet, and paperwork checks as any other watch.

== Related references ==

* [[Reference:4365|Air-King 4365]]
* [[Reference:4499|Air-King 4499]]
* [[Reference:4925|Air-King 4925]]
* [[Reference:5500|Air-King 5500]], 34mm Oyster (1957–1989)
* [[Reference:5501|Air-King 5501]]
* [[Reference:5502|Air-King 5502]]

See also the [[Reference:air-king|Air-King family index]], [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|bracelet & clasp guide]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial numbers by year]].

<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
File:Ref 114200 hero.webp|Air-King 114200 silver concentric dial
File:Ref 114200 dominos detail.webp|Domino's example, dial logo and commemorative caseback engraving
</gallery>

== Sources ==
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5841951 Rolex Air-King 114200 Domino's Pizza, case 96A51575] (Christie's, 2013)
* [https://jewelry.ha.com/itm/timepieces/wristwatch/rolex-air-king-reference-114200-stainless-steel-wristwatch-with-box/a/21175-12043.s?ic16=ViewItem-Auction-Open-ActionBar-PreviousLot-090315 Rolex Air-King 114200, lot 12043] (Heritage Auctions, 2025)
* [https://ineichen.com/auctions/timed-44/69/ Rolex Oyster Perpetual Air-King 114200] (Ineichen, current listing)

* ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'', Colin A. White, Morning Tundra
* [https://www.rescapement.com/blog/rolex-air-king-history Tony Traina, "Rolex Air-King History: The Forgotten King", Rescapement]
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/history-of-the-rolex-air-king-the-underrated-pilots-watch/ Erik Slaven, "History of the Rolex Air-King, the underrated pilots watch", Monochrome Watches, 2025]
* [https://goldammer.me/blogs/articles/rolex-airking-origin-history-and-design-evolution Marcus Siems, "Rolex Air-King Origin History and Design Evolution", Goldammer]
* [https://robbreport.com/style/watch-collector/lists/complete-guide-to-the-rolex-air-king-1945-to-present-1235881849/ "The Complete Guide to Rolex Air-King Watches From 1945 to Present", Robb Report]
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/hands-on-review-rolex-oyster-perpetual-air-king-ref-116900-40mm-baselworld-2016-live-pics-price/ Robin Nooy, "Hands-On Review Rolex Oyster Perpetual Air-King ref 116900 40mm Baselworld 2016", Monochrome Watches, 2016]
* [https://onlineonly.christies.com.cn/s/jewels-watches-online-la-dolce-vita/rolex-oyster-perpetual-air-king-dominos-pizza-ref-114200-136/144839 "Rolex Oyster Perpetual Air King Per Dominos Pizza Ref 114200", Christie's]
* [https://www.watch-wiki.net/doku.php?id=rolex_air-king "Rolex Air-King", Watch-Wiki]
* [https://www.windvintage.com/rolex-air-king-reference-114200-pink-hour-markers-unpolished-full-set Eric Wind, "Rolex Air-King Reference 114200 Pink Hour Markers Unpolished Full Set Wind Vintage", Wind Vintage]
* [https://revolutionwatch.com/the-king-is-dead-long-live-the-king/ Ross Povey, "The King is Dead Long Live The King, Air-King transition 14000-116900 Ross Povey Revolution", Revolution Watch, 2020]
* [https://therake.com/default/stories/the-king-is-dead-long-live-the-king Ross Povey, "The King is Dead Long Live The King The Rake Povey syndicated", The Rake, 2020]

[[Category:Air-King]]

Reference:114060

2026-09-29T09:53:20Z

Klaudiusz: Deep audit: ground 114060 sources and remove unsupported collector framing

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex 114060 Submariner}}
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Submariner 114060 (2012–2020), Production & Dial Guide | Rolexopedia
|description=The 114060 is a 40mm no-date Submariner from 2012–2020, with caliber 3130, a Cerachrom bezel, Maxi case and Glidelock bracelet.
|keywords=Rolex, 114060, Submariner, specifications, reference guide
|image=Ref 114060 hero.webp
|image_alt=Rolex Submariner Ref. 114060
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|published_time=2026-04-14T16:12:46Z
|modified_time=2026-09-28T00:00:00Z
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
}}

<small>[[Reference:submariner|Submariner]] › '''114060'''</small>

<div class="rp-lead">
[[File:Ref_114060_hero_3.webp|thumb|center|640px|alt=Rolex Submariner Ref. 114060|Rolex Submariner Ref. 114060]]
</div>

The 114060 is a 40mm no-date Submariner introduced in 2012 and replaced around 2020 by the 41mm 124060 with caliber 3230. It combines caliber 3130, a Cerachrom bezel, the Maxi case and an Oyster bracelet with Glidelock. The late 14060M also used caliber 3130, so the movement is a continuation within a revised case and bracelet package.

The case measures about 40mm across and is commonly described as roughly 12.5mm thick with a 48mm lug-to-lug span. Its broad lugs and crown guards give it a different wrist profile from the five-digit 14060M. Published sources do not document a complete mid-run parts census, so small service or production changes should be checked on individual watches.

<span id="core-facts"></span>

== Core facts ==

{| class="wikitable rp-facts"
|-
! detail
! value
|-
| reference
| 114060
|-
| family
| Submariner (no date)
|-
| production
| 2012 to about 2020
|-
| movement
| caliber 3130, COSC, 28,800 vph, 48hr power reserve
|-
| case
| 40mm, 904L steel, Maxi case, no lug holes, ~12.5mm thick, ~48mm lug-to-lug
|-
| crystal
| sapphire, flat, no Cyclops
|-
| water resistance
| 300m / 1000ft
|-
| crown
| Triplock screw-down
|-
| bezel
| Cerachrom ceramic, unidirectional, platinum PVD numerals, scratch-resistant
|-
| bracelet
| Oyster ref.97200, solid links, Oysterlock with Glidelock (20mm micro-adjust)
|-
| dial
| four printed lines, glossy black, white-gold Maxi markers
|-
| lume
| Chromalight blue
|-
| rehaut
| engraved "ROLEX" repeating + serial at 6
|-
| case back
| solid steel, screw-down
|-
| successor
| 124060
|}

<span id="where-it-sits-in-the-line"></span>
== Where it sits in the line ==

The 114060 shares its generation with the date-equipped 116610LN and 116610LV, but uses caliber 3130 instead of 3135. It replaced the 14060M and was succeeded by the 124060, which introduced caliber 3230 and a 41mm case. The engraved rehaut was already present on late 14060M examples, so it is not unique to the 114060.

<span id="production-outline"></span>
== Production outline ==

Rolex introduced the 114060 with the ceramic bezel, Maxi case, Glidelock bracelet, Chromalight lume and engraved rehaut associated with this generation. Serial formats changed across the modern period, and service parts or small production revisions may not be visible from catalogue descriptions. The published record does not prove that every 2013 and 2019 example is identical in every component.

<span id="movement-notes"></span>
== Movement notes ==

Caliber 3130 is an automatic no-date movement with COSC chronometer certification, running at 28,800 vph and storing about 48 hours of power reserve. The same caliber powered the late 14060M, so the movement is carryover rather than new. Regulation is handled by a Parachrom blue hairspring, Rolex's paramagnetic alloy spring, more resistant to magnetic fields, temperature change, and shock than a traditional spring, together with Microstella regulating nuts on the balance.

The 114060 was the last no-date Submariner to use caliber 3130. Its successor, the 124060, uses caliber 3230 with a stated 70-hour reserve and the Chronergy escapement.

<span id="dial-map"></span>
== Dial map ==

The dial is glossy black with applied white-gold Maxi markers and larger Mercedes hands. "Maxi" in this context refers to marker and hand proportions, bigger lume plots and wider hands than the five-digit 14060 and 14060M carried, sized to match the wider Maxi Case.

<span id="dial-text"></span>
=== Dial text ===

The 114060 dial has four printed lines below the hands: “SUBMARINER,” the depth rating, and “SUPERLATIVE CHRONOMETER OFFICIALLY CERTIFIED.” It has no date window or Cyclops, but it is not a two-line dial. The four-line arrangement continues the chronometer wording used on the 14060M while keeping the symmetrical no-date layout.

[[File:Ref 114060 dial.webp|thumb|right|250px|Four-line no-date dial with Maxi markers and Mercedes hands|alt=Four-line no-date dial with Maxi markers and Mercedes hands]]

All markers and hands use Chromalight, Rolex's long-emission lume, which glows blue where the older Super-LumiNova glowed green. Forum reports give a wide range of afterglow depending on prior light exposure, so lume duration is not a fixed specification. The "SWISS MADE" text sits at 6 o'clock.

<span id="case-bezel-crystal-and-crown-notes"></span>
== Case, bezel, crystal, and crown ==

<span id="maxi-case"></span>
=== Maxi case ===

The case is 40mm 904L stainless steel in the Maxi format, wider lugs and more pronounced crown guards than the slim five-digit case used on the 14060 and 14060M, about 12.5mm thick with a 48mm lug-to-lug span, and no drilled lug holes.

Finishing follows the modern Professional pattern, with brushed top surfaces and polished flanks.

The 114060 has broader lugs and a heavier visual profile than the 14060M despite the same nominal diameter. It is the last no-date Submariner with this 40mm Maxi case before the line moved to 41mm.

<span id="cerachrom-bezel"></span>
=== Cerachrom bezel ===

The bezel is unidirectional with a black Cerachrom insert. Rolex describes the ceramic as resistant to scratching and UV fading; the condition of an individual insert still has to be checked. The numerals and graduations are filled with platinum by PVD. Compared with the aluminum insert on the 14060M, the material has different wear and aging characteristics.

[[File:Ref 114060 bezel.webp|thumb|right|250px|Cerachrom bezel and engraved rehaut, angled view|alt=Cerachrom bezel and engraved rehaut, angled view]]

<span id="crystal-and-crown"></span>
=== Crystal and crown ===

Flat sapphire crystal, no Cyclops, the defining visual difference between the no-date 114060 and the date-equipped 116610LN. The flat crystal gives the 114060 a symmetrical face with no magnifier bump at 3 o'clock. The crown is the Triplock screw-down, carried over from the 14060M and rated to 300m.

[[File:Ref 114060 crown.webp|thumb|right|250px|Triplock crown and case flank|alt=Triplock crown and case flank]]

<span id="rehaut"></span>
=== Rehaut ===

The inner rehaut is engraved with repeating “ROLEX” text and the serial number at 6 o'clock on documented 114060 examples, matching the engraved rehaut introduced on the four-line 14060M from 2007.

The case back is solid steel, screw-down, with no display window.

<span id="bracelets-end-links-clasps-and-packaging-notes"></span>
== Bracelets, end links, clasps, and packaging notes ==

<span id="bracelet"></span>
=== Bracelet ===

The 114060 is paired with Oyster bracelet ref. 97200, solid links and an Oysterlock clasp with Glidelock adjustment. Glidelock uses a notched slider for tool-free length changes; the exact range and clasp parts should be checked on the bracelet. The 97200 differs from the 93150/93250 assemblies associated with earlier five-digit Submariners. A clasp or bracelet service replacement does not date the watch head.

<span id="clasp-date-codes"></span>
=== Clasp date codes ===

The clasp date codes tabulated in the Field Manual stop at RS = 2010, which leaves every 114060 clasp past the end of the published chart. Whether the coding system carried on unchanged after that point is not recorded. An “S” stamp is commonly used for a service clasp; confirm the code against the clasp and service history.

<span id="packaging"></span>
=== Packaging ===

Documented period sets include the green Rolex box with a white or green outer sleeve, warranty card, booklets, and hang tags. Rolex changed the warranty card format somewhere inside this window, and the precise sequence of packaging variations across 2012 to 2020 has not been mapped.

<span id="special-branches"></span>
== Special branches ==

No factory military or retailer branch is identified in the cited sources. Service parts, warranty-card formats and bracelet changes can still occur, so apparent differences should be checked against the individual watch and its documentation.

<span id="collector-perspective-the-last-small-sub"></span>
== Collector perspective: "the last small Sub" ==

Collectors sometimes call the 114060 the “last small Sub” because the 124060 moved to a 41mm case. That is a size comparison, not an official designation. The reference combines a 40mm case, ceramic bezel, four-line no-date dial, and caliber 3130; comparisons with the 124060 usually focus on case size, movement, and condition.

<span id="production-volume-estimates"></span>
== Production volume ==

Rolex does not publish a 114060 production total. Dealer estimates are not a substitute for a factory record, so no reference-wide volume is stated here.

<span id="historical-market-and-auction-record"></span>
== Historical market and auction record ==

Auction and secondary-market prices vary by condition, completeness, venue and date. The cited sources do not support a reference-wide price ranking against the 14060M or 124060. The 124060 comparison is technical: caliber 3230 has a longer stated power reserve than caliber 3130, and the case is 41mm rather than 40mm.

== Related references ==

* [[Reference:116610LV|Submariner 116610LV]] ("Hulk", green dial, 2010–2020)
* [[Reference:116610LN|Submariner 116610LN]] (2010–2020)
* [[Reference:116613|Submariner 116613]] (2009–2020)
* [[Reference:116618|Submariner 116618]] (yellow gold, 2008–2020)
* [[Reference:116619LB|Submariner 116619LB]] ("Smurf", white gold, 2008–2020)
* [[Reference:16610LV|Submariner 16610LV]] ("Kermit", green bezel, 2003–2010)

See also the [[Reference:submariner|Submariner family index]], [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|bracelet & clasp guide]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial numbers by year]].

<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
File:Ref_114060_hero_3.webp|114060 Submariner
File:Ref 114060 dial.webp|Four-line no-date dial
File:Ref 114060 bezel.webp|Cerachrom bezel and rehaut
File:Ref 114060 crown.webp|Triplock crown and case flank
</gallery>

== Sources ==
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/rolex-submariner-history-part-2-the-55xx-1680references/ History of the Rolex Submariner - Part 2, The 55XX References and 1680 Date], Tom Mulraney, Monochrome
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/articles/how-to-start-collecting-the-rolex-submariner The Rolex Submariner: A Complete Collector's Guide], Stephen Pulvirent, Sotheby's
* [https://timeandtidewatches.com/rolex-submariner-114060-review/ Rolex Submariner 114060 Review], Andrew McUtchen, Time and Tide Watches
* [https://www.ablogtowatch.com/rolex-submariner-114060-review/ Rolex Submariner 114060 Review], Ariel Adams, aBlogtoWatch
* [https://professionalwatches.com/rolex-submariner-reference-guide/ Rolex Submariner Reference Guide], Professional Watches editorial, Professional Watches
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2025/fine-watches-3/reference-114060-submariner-a-stainless-steel Sotheby's, Reference 114060 Submariner, Fine Watches 2025, Lot 498], launch date, 40mm case, caliber 3130, and 97200 bracelet

[[Category:Submariner]]

Reference:6062

2026-09-29T09:48:57Z

Klaudiusz: Deep audit: ground Reference 6062 prose, evidence limits, and image layout

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex 6062 Stelline}}
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex 6062 'Stelline' — Triple-Calendar Moonphase Oyster, 1950-1953 | Rolexopedia
|description=The 6062 is the Oyster-cased half of Rolex's only triple-calendar moonphase pair. Waterproof, chronometer-certified, and the source of two of the highest prices ever paid for a Rolex at auction.
|keywords=Rolex, 6062, Stelline, Padellone, 8171, moonphase, triple calendar, Bao Dai, specifications, reference guide
|image=Ref 6062 hero.webp
|image_alt=Rolex 6062 Stelline, triple-calendar moonphase in an Oyster case
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
}}

<small>[[Reference:padellone|Padellone]] › '''6062'''</small>

<div class="rp-lead">
[[File:Ref 6062 hero.webp|thumb|center|640px|alt=Rolex 6062 Stelline, yellow gold, triple-calendar moonphase in an Oyster case|Rolex 6062 Stelline, yellow gold, triple-calendar moonphase in an Oyster case]]
</div>

The 6062 is the Oyster-cased member of Rolex's triple-calendar moonphase pair. Rolex introduced it at the 1950 Basel Fair alongside the non-Oyster 8171. The 36mm case shows the day, date, month, and moonphase, with a screw-down caseback and crown. Published sources place production from 1950 to about 1953. Collectors call the reference "Stelline," Italian for "little stars," after its star-marker dial.

The 6062 is catalogued with caliber 655, an automatic movement associated with the model. The 8171 is catalogued with caliber A.295 CPL; the two references share the same complication layout and period. Black-dial diamond-marker 6062s have twice held the auction record for a Rolex, including a second example sold in October 2025.

<span id="core-facts"></span>
== Core facts ==

{| class="wikitable rp-facts"
|-
! detail
! value
|-
| reference
| 6062
|-
| nickname
| ''Stelline'' (Italian: "little stars"), after the star-marker dial
|-
| family
| Padellone / triple calendar moonphase
|-
| production
| Basel Fair 1950 - c. 1953 (editorial consensus; a Christie's catalogue essay gives "approximately 10 years", see Production outline)
|-
| total production
| under 1,000 across all metals (collector estimates vary; see Production outline)
|-
| case diameter
| 36mm
|-
| case construction
| two-piece Oyster, screw-down caseback and crown
|-
| water resistance
| waterproof Oyster case
|-
| case materials
| 18K yellow gold (most common); stainless steel and 18K pink gold (both scarcer, roughly comparable in surviving numbers)
|-
| movement
| Cal. 655 "Super-Balance" (automatic, in-house, 9¾ lignes)
|-
| complications
| day, month (twin apertures at 12); date (peripheral pointer); moonphase (blue champlevé enamel disc at 6)
|-
| crystal
| acrylic, domed
|-
| dial signature
| "Rolex Oyster Perpetual"; "Swiss" (precious metal) or "Swiss Made" (steel, and precious-metal Explorer dials) beneath the moonphase
|-
| crown
| screw-down; Super-Oyster (most common) or Twin-Lock
|}

<span id="what-the-6062-is"></span>
== What the 6062 is ==

In the late 1940s Rolex had the main Oyster Perpetual elements in place: a waterproof case, automatic winding, chronometer certification, and a date display. The 6062 and 8171 combined those elements with a full calendar and moonphase. The 6062 is the Oyster version, with a screw-down caseback and crown; the 8171 uses a snap-on dress-watch caseback.

The Oyster case is the main distinction between the two references. Phillips describes the 8171 as a conventional dress watch and the 6062 as a complication in an everyday-style case. Published reference guides describe the 6062 as the first self-winding triple-calendar wristwatch in a waterproof case, and as Rolex's only complicated self-winding Oyster of this period.

<span id="stelline-and-the-other-dials"></span>
== "Stelline" and the other dials ==

''Stelline'' is Italian for "little stars," the diminutive plural of ''stella''. It names the reference's most recognized dial: applied five-pointed star hour markers, more common in the surviving population than any of the 6062's other dial types. Two generations exist. The earlier version, catalogued by dial-maker Stern as Type 755, sets a separate lume plot beside each star; the later Type 453 centers the lume inside the star itself. Type 755 turns up across every documented case-serial batch; Type 453 is confined to the earliest batches, serials 690,xxx and 788,xxx.

Stelline is one of six original dial configurations. The others are dagger markers, an "Explorer" dial with applied Arabic numerals at 3 and 9 (typically stainless steel, though a handful of gold examples exist, including three pink gold examples among the rarest 6062s known), a pyramid or "Egyptian" marker style confined to the last case batches and the scarcest of the silvered dial types, spade markers, and, rarest of all, a solid black lacquer dial. Seven black dials are documented; three of those carry baguette-cut diamond indices in place of markers, the configuration behind the reference's most valuable results.

Except for the black dials, every 6062 dial is silvered and clearly two-tone: a matte ''grainé'' center and a smoother, slightly darker outer date track, a distinction that age and patina have generally sharpened rather than erased. A dial that reads as a single flat tone today may indicate a refinish or service replacement; other evidence is needed to establish originality. The signature beneath the moonphase is the other tell, steel dials read "Swiss Made," precious-metal dials read "Swiss" alone except on Explorer-dial examples, which read "Swiss Made" regardless of case metal. A dial signed "T Swiss T" is a service dial: tritium is a lume material Rolex adopted well after the 6062 left production.

The moonphase uses a blue champlevé enamel disc. Christie's identifies Beyeler as the maker of record and Stern Frères as the firm responsible for delivery and mounting. The disc carries a painted face.

<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
File:Ref 6062 dial-stelline.webp|alt=Rolex 6062 "Dark Star", yellow gold Stelline dial with star hour markers|The "Dark Star" 6062, yellow gold Stelline dial with star hour markers, oxidized case patina
File:Ref 6062 dial-detail.webp|alt=Rolex 6062 moonphase detail, blue champlevé enamel disc|Moonphase detail, blue champlevé enamel disc with man-in-the-moon face
</gallery>

<span id="the-oyster-case"></span>
== The Oyster case ==
[[File:Ref 6062 case-flank.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=Rolex 6062 in stainless steel, screw-down crown and Oyster case, Explorer dial|Stainless steel 6062, "The New Standard", screw-down crown and Oyster case construction, Explorer dial]]

At 36mm, the 6062's case is close in size to a contemporary Datejust or Explorer, not the oversized 38mm dress case Rolex built for the 8171. The construction is a genuine two-piece waterproof Oyster: screw-down caseback, screw-down crown, in either the more common Super-Oyster pattern or, on some examples, a Twin-Lock crown. A sealed case can trap dust and haze inside the crystal over time, and servicing it requires opening the screw-down case rather than removing a snap-on back.

Precious-metal cases came from Genex, the Geneva casemaker that began as the case-making arm of bracelet-maker Gay Frères before Rolex brought it in-house; a number 12 struck inside a key, punched on the interior of the caseback, is Genex's mark. Stainless steel cases came from Spillman, the firm that had built Rolex's original Oyster case in the 1920s. One case-numbering detail is specific to the pink gold run: some examples were first stamped with a different reference, 6063, before Rolex struck that number through with engraved lines and re-stamped 6062 beneath it, evidence that the pink gold case was, at least briefly, treated as its own catalog entry before being folded into the 6062 line.

<span id="movement-caliber-655"></span>
== Movement: caliber 655 ==

The 6062 runs caliber 655, an automatic movement built specifically for the model and sometimes called the "Super-Balance 9¾" after its 9¾-ligne dimension. The base movement carries 17 or 18 jewels, 17-jewel examples turn up disproportionately on watches sold into the US market, which taxed higher jewel counts more heavily, rising to 25 or 26 jewels once the calendar module is counted. The cited references describe the movements as chronometer-certified. The automatic winding module was adapted for the calendar and moonphase correctors while retaining the Oyster case's water resistance.

That caliber number is a genuine point of disagreement in the record. Phillips' own 2024 collectors' guide to the 6062 describes the movement as "carried over from the 8171" and calls it "the same self-winding caliber inside" both references. Auction-house lot cataloguing says otherwise: two separate Christie's lot descriptions and a Sotheby's lot description for individual 6062 examples all name caliber 655 specifically, and Hodinkee's dedicated in-depth piece on the reference does the same. Four independent, specific citations naming 655 outweigh one general editorial line describing a shared caliber, and 655 is the reading used throughout this article. The two movements are close relatives from the same in-house programme and the same era, but they are not, on the weight of the evidence, the identical caliber.

<span id="the-8171-and-the-complication-pair"></span>
== The 8171 and the complication pair ==

The 6062's sibling is the 8171, the non-Oyster dress version of the same complication set, produced concurrently in the same three case metals. Same complication layout, day and month at 12, moonphase at 6, date on a peripheral pointer track, same era, same eventual discontinuation by 1953. The differences are the case and the movement: the 8171 is 38mm with a snap-on caseback and caliber A.295 CPL; the 6062 is 36mm, waterproof, and runs caliber 655.

Rolex used the name "Cosmograph" for the 6062 in early-1950s print advertising; the name later became associated with the Daytona. Rolex replaced the 6062 and 8171 with the Day-Date in 1956, dropping the month display and moonphase. The brand returned to a production moonphase with the Cellini Moonphase in 2017.

<span id="auction-record"></span>
== Auction record ==
[[File:Ref 6062 historical-baodai.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=The "Bao Dai" Rolex 6062, black dial with baguette-diamond indices|The "Bao Dai", black dial, baguette-diamond indices, twice the record holder for the most expensive Rolex sold at auction]]

The 6062's auction history is dominated by the black-diamond-dial "Bao Dai," which has twice held the record for the most expensive Rolex ever sold, and by a small group of named, individually tracked examples that have traded repeatedly over the past two decades.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Venue
! Date
! Lot / watch
! Material
! Configuration
! Result
|-
| Phillips de Pury, Geneva
| 2002
| "Bao Dai"
| 18K yellow gold, black dial
| baguette-diamond indices (5 diamonds, at 12, 2, 4, 8, 10)
| CHF 370,000 (a record for the most expensive Rolex sold at auction at the time)
|-
| Phillips, Geneva Watch Auction
| May 2017
| "Bao Dai," resold
| 18K yellow gold, black dial
| same watch as above
| CHF 5,066,000 (again the most expensive Rolex sold at auction, until surpassed months later by the "Paul Newman" Daytona)
|-
| Christie's, New York
| 2012
| ex-Gordon Bethune, single-owner sale
| 18K pink gold, Stelline
| n/a
| USD 590,500
|-
| Christie's, Geneva
| May 2019
| separate pink gold Stelline, re-lumed with period radium
| 18K pink gold, Stelline
| n/a
| CHF 800,000 hammer (CHF 975,000 with premium)
|-
| Phillips, Geneva Watch Auction
| November 2019
| ex-Gordon Bethune, resold
| 18K pink gold, Stelline
| n/a
| CHF 1,940,000
|-
| Phillips, Geneva Watch Auction
| November 2023
| "The New Standard," fresh to market
| stainless steel, Explorer dial
| unpolished, non-lume dial
| CHF 2,117,000
|-
| Monaco Legend Group, Exclusive Timepieces, Monte Carlo
| 18-19 October 2025
| Lot 111, case no. 942,536
| 18K yellow gold, black dial
| baguette-diamond indices (6 diamonds, at 1, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11)
| USD 6,200,000 (a new record for the reference)
|}

The same "Bao Dai" watch has twice held the auction record for a Rolex. Bao Dai, the last Emperor of Vietnam, visited Rolex in Geneva during 1954 peace talks and reportedly asked to see the company's most expensive watch; Rolex produced this black-dial 6062 with baguette-diamond indices. Consigned by a young Aurel Bacs to Phillips de Pury in 2002, it sold for CHF 370,000 against a CHF 200,000 reserve, then reappeared at Phillips Geneva in May 2017 and sold for CHF 5,066,000, reclaiming the title until that year's record-breaking "Paul Newman" Daytona took it a few months later.

In October 2025, a second black-diamond-dial 6062 set a new auction record for the reference. Case number 942,536 carries six diamonds at 1, 3, 5, 7, 9, and 11, while the Bao Dai has five. Monaco Legend Group sold it in Monte Carlo for USD 6.2 million. Forbes ranked that result third among Rolex auction prices at the time of publication. The lot had previously sold at Antiquorum in 2006 as part of The Mondani Collection for USD 391,000. Hodinkee's preview described the watch and its rarity before the sale.

Outside the headline results, condition and dial originality are recurring factors in 6062 auction descriptions. Christie's watch-department head Remi Guillemin, quoted in Hodinkee's survey of more than 100 documented 6062 sales, put it directly: "It's about condition more than any specific configuration." Refinished or service-dial examples have sold for a small fraction of original-dial results in comparable case condition, figures as low as USD 64,000-257,000 against seven-figure results for original dials from the same auction seasons.

<span id="collecting-considerations"></span>
== Collecting considerations ==

Condition and dial originality decide 6062 value far more than case metal or dial pattern. A two-tone silvered dial that reads as a single flat shade today has likely been refinished or replaced; the "Swiss" or "Swiss Made" signature beneath the moonphase, and its match to the case metal and dial type, is the fastest originality check. Service dials are commonly marked "T Swiss T," a tritium reference that postdates the 6062's own production.

The documented auction record places black-dial diamond examples at the top of the market, followed by other black dials and the less common pyramid and Explorer configurations. Steel and pink-gold examples also appear in higher-value results than many yellow-gold examples, but the surviving sample is too small for a fixed ranking. Because the case is a sealed, screw-down Oyster rather than a snap-on dress back, service history matters more here than on the 8171: a caseback that has never been opened, with sharp, unpolished case lines and crisp numbering between the lugs, is the strongest originality signal a 6062 can offer.

== Related references ==

The 8171 is the 6062's non-Oyster sibling, same complication set, same era, different case and a different in-house movement (caliber A.295 CPL rather than the 6062's caliber 655). See [[Reference:8171|Reference:8171]] and the [[Reference:padellone|Padellone]] family hub for the pair together.

The Rolex Datocompax chronographs (4767, 5036, 6036, 6236) are calendar chronographs from the same broad period, built on a Valjoux 72C ébauche rather than an in-house automatic caliber. They belong to a separate movement family from the 6062.

The Day-Date, introduced in 1956, replaced both the 6062 and the 8171 in Rolex's catalog, keeping the date complication the market wanted while dropping the month display and moonphase the market apparently did not.

In September 2026 Rolex introduced the Perpetual Padellone (refs. 53505/53506), a modern annual-calendar moonphase watch that uses the "Padellone" name and cites the 8171 and 6062 in its product history. It is current production and outside this wiki's pre-2020 vintage scope; see [[Reference:padellone|Padellone]].

<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
File:Ref 6062 hero.webp|6062 Stelline, front view
File:Ref 6062 dial-stelline.webp|Stelline star-marker dial
File:Ref 6062 dial-detail.webp|Moonphase detail
File:Ref 6062 case-flank.webp|Stainless-steel Explorer-dial case
File:Ref 6062 historical-baodai.webp|Bao Dai black diamond dial
</gallery>

== Sources ==

* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6446730 "Christie's — ref. 6062 'Stelline' 18K pink gold, case no. 788'629, circa 1952 (ex-Gordon Bethune)", Christie's]
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6185890 "Christie's — ref. 6062, case no. 916'321, circa 1952, movement Cal. 655", Christie's]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/buy/6bf22b7c-9701-4b3d-a526-3a79045e2240/lots/9019b86c-e01d-487d-ac08-3625b0116674 "Sotheby's — ref. 6062, 18K yellow gold, silvered dial, case no. 942'X08, movement no. 10'272", Sotheby's]
* [https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-rolex-6062-triple-calendar-moonphase-and-why-it-remains-the-biggest-star-in-all-of-vintage-rolex "In-Depth: The Rolex 6062 Triple Calendar Moonphase, And Why It Remains The Biggest Star In All Of Vintage Rolex", Hodinkee, 2023-10-27]
* [https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/christies-geneva-may-2019-restored-rolex-6062-stelline "What The Upcoming Sale Of A Restored Rolex 6062 'Pink Stelline' At Christie's Could Mean For The Vintage Watch Market", Hodinkee, 2019-05-09]
* [https://phillips.com/article/132514269/rolex-6062-guide-triple-calendar-moonphase-stelline-black-steel Logan Baker, "The Fine Print: A Complete History Of The Legendary Rolex Triple Calendar Moonphase Ref. 6062", Phillips, 2024-05-01]
* [https://www.forbes.com/sites/thomaswojtowicz/2025/10/20/super-rare-rolex-6062-sells-for-record-7-figure-price/ Thomas Wójtowicz, "Rare Rolex 6062 Sells For Record $6.2 Million", Forbes, 2025-10-20]
* [https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/auctions-mlg-fall-2025 "Auctions: A Live Preview Of This Weekend's Fall 2025 Monaco Legend Auction", Hodinkee, 2025-10-16]
* [https://le-monde-edmond.com/rolex-6062-the-stelline-that-went-unnoticed/ Edmond Saran, "Rolex 6062: The stelline that went unnoticed", Le Monde Edmond]
* [https://watchesbysjx.com/2019/10/rolex-6062-stelline-gordon-bethune.html "Rolex Unicorns, Part III: Ref. 6062 Triple Calendar 'Stelline Gordon Bethune'", SJX Watches, 2019-10-01]
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/2026-rolex-perpetual-padellone-annual-calendar-moonphase-dynapulse-53505-53506-review-video-price/ Brice Goulard, "The new Rolex Perpetual Padellone, The Return of an Icon now with Annual Calendar and Dynapulse", Monochrome Watches, 2026-09-15]

[[Category:Padellone]]

--- 18684 chars, 0 images ---

Reference:5100

2026-09-29T09:46:41Z

Klaudiusz: Deep audit: correct Reference 5100 prose, hero placement, and gallery

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex 5100 Beta 21}}

{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Beta 21 5100 — First Quartz Watch | Rolexopedia
|description=Rolex reference 5100: the Beta 21 quartz movement, the CEH consortium, production dates, case materials, and the documented auction record.
|image=Ref 5100 hero.webp
|type=article
}}

<small>Beta 21 → '''5100'''</small>

<div class="rp-lead">
[[File:Ref 5100 hero.webp|thumb|center|640px|alt=Rolex Beta 21 ref. 5100 in white gold, front view, on its integrated bracelet|Rolex Beta 21 ref. 5100 in 18K white gold, Phillips Hong Kong.]]
</div>

Rolex launched Ref. 5100 on 5 June 1970 as its first quartz wristwatch. The watch used the 13-jewel, 8kHz Beta 21 module developed by the Centre Electronique Horloger (CEH), a consortium of about twenty Swiss watch houses that included Omega, Patek Philippe, and Piaget. Rolex designed the 5100's case, dial, and integrated bracelet around that shared movement; the movement itself was a consortium design.

Rolex discontinued the 5100 in 1972 and left the CEH that year. It then developed the proprietary calibers 5035 and 5055 for the Oysterquartz line, introduced in 1977. Auction catalogues also call the 5100 "Texano" or "The Texan"; those names are used in dealer and auction-house catalogues rather than in the Rolex references cited here.

== Core facts ==

{| class="wikitable"
! detail
! value
|-
| reference
| 5100
|-
| model names
| Beta 21; also catalogued as "Texano" or "The Texan"
|-
| production
| 1970-1972
|-
| case materials
| 18K yellow gold, 18K white gold
|-
| case diameter
| approximately 39mm across the width (tonneau case; see Case, bezel, crystal, and crown)
|-
| case shape
| tonneau, angular
|-
| crystal
| sapphire, Rolex's first
|-
| movement
| Beta 21 quartz module, cal. RE10, Beta 21; 8kHz, 13 jewels (one lot records 15, see Movement notes)
|-
| dial
| silvered (white gold cases) or gilt/gold-coloured (yellow gold cases); text reads "water resistant," not "waterproof"
|-
| bracelet
| integrated, same metal as the case, concealed deployant clasp
|}

== Where it sits in the line ==

The 5100 was Rolex's contribution to the CEH quartz project. Rolex joined about twenty other Swiss manufacturers instead of developing a movement alone. The resulting Beta 21 powered watches such as Patek Philippe ref. 3587 and the IWC Da Vinci, while each manufacturer designed its own case and dial.

The 5100 differs from Rolex's other watches of the period. It uses a non-Oyster, non-waterproof tonneau case with a screw crown because the Beta 21's dimensions required a different case design. In this model, the movement set the case constraints.

After leaving the CEH in 1972, Rolex developed the proprietary calibers 5035 and 5055 for the [[Reference:19018|Oysterquartz]], launched in 1977. The Beta 21 was a shared consortium movement; the Oysterquartz calibers were Rolex designs made for a conventional Oyster case. The 5100 therefore belongs to the Beta 21 project rather than to the later Oysterquartz family.

== Production outline ==

Documented case numbers include 104, 184, 192 (twice), 644, 773, and 794, together with dealer references to numbers above 1,000. Individual watches carry an engraved edition number rather than a conventional Rolex serial. The published sources reviewed here do not establish a confirmed total production figure.

Christie's calls a 1,000-piece run, 900 in yellow gold, 100 in white gold, "believed" rather than confirmed. Hodinkee lays out three separate, mutually exclusive collector theories: something close to 700 yellow gold and 300 white gold; something closer to 900 and 100; or two separate batches of 900 yellow and 100 white apiece, for roughly 2,000 total. None of the three theories is sourced to a Rolex production document, and the published examples include numbers above 1,000. The supported conclusion is narrower: production ran from 1970 to 1972 in yellow and white gold, while the total quantity remains undocumented in the sources reviewed here.

One case number turns up twice in the Phillips record. Case No. 192 sold at The Geneva Watch Auction: NINE in May 2019 for CHF62,500 against a CHF15,000-25,000 estimate, then reappeared at The Geneva Watch Auction: XX in 2024, selling for CHF48,260 against a CHF30,000-60,000 estimate. The matching number and repeated auction description are consistent with one watch being re-consigned, but the records do not prove that.

== Movement notes ==

The Beta 21 was not a Rolex design. The CEH developed it collaboratively, first showing a prototype in 1967. In 1968 the consortium's roughly twenty member houses agreed to produce about 6,000 of the movements, and a few hundred Beta 21 watches appeared at Baselworld in 1969, a year before Rolex's own 5100 reached the market. One source puts the consortium at 21 watchmakers rather than 20; neither figure is resolved against the other here, and both are given with attribution rather than picking a winner. Rolex could make only limited modifications to the shared movement, which is the reason the case exists in the unusual form it does: the electronics came first, and the case had to be built around them.

Rolex and the auction houses catalogue the movement as cal. RE10, Beta 21, 8kHz, 13 jewels, in the descriptions given by Sotheby's, Christie's and Antiquorum. One Phillips lot (The Hong Kong Watch Auction: EIGHT) instead gives 15 jewels for the same designation. Nothing in the sourced record explains the gap, and no second lot corroborates it, so it reads as a catalogue transcription slip rather than a documented second variant.

The Beta 21 uses a sweep centre-seconds hand driven through a pallet wheel. Christie's describes this as a feature of the early Beta 21 generation; later quartz movements commonly used a stepper motor with a one-second jump.

Rolex's own successor movements, cal. 5035 and 5055, share none of this architecture. They are proprietary designs built five years later specifically to fit a standard Oyster case, a different engineering answer to a problem the Beta 21 had already tried to solve.

== Dial map ==

Two documented dial colours track the two case metals: silvered dials on white gold cases, gilt or gold-coloured dials on yellow gold cases. Both carry "ROLEX" and "QUARTZ" printed on the dial, a date aperture at 3 o'clock, and, on at least one yellow gold example catalogued by Antiquorum, a Cyclops lens over the date. The dial text itself carries one detail worth noting for what it does not say: it reads "water resistant," not the "waterproof" language Rolex used across its Oyster-cased catalogue of the same years, a small wording difference that tracks the case's non-Oyster construction rather than a lesser build standard.

== Case, bezel, crystal, and crown ==

[[File:Ref 5100 caseback.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=Caseback of a Rolex 5100 engraved with the limited-edition number 104|Caseback of case No. 104, engraved with its limited-edition number, Antiquorum Hong Kong.]]

The case is tonneau-shaped and integrated with the bracelet. Phillips describes its lines as angular and calls the design the first major departure from the Oyster case; the 5100 itself is not an Oyster case. It has a snap-on back and a fluted bezel.

Case diameter is given as approximately 39mm across the width on the majority of sourced lots, four separate Phillips lots and one Antiquorum lot agree on this figure. One Christie's lot gives 40mm, and Antiquorum records one example at 45 x 39mm, measuring both axes of the tonneau shape rather than a single diameter. Taken together, these read as measurement-convention differences on a non-round case rather than evidence of more than one case size.

Every documented case is 18K gold, yellow or white, with no steel examples surfacing across the sourced auction record. White gold examples are consistently described as the scarcer of the two: Phillips catalogue language calls white gold "exceedingly rarer" and states that "no more than a handful" of white gold examples have ever come to auction, while Christie's puts a number on it directly, fewer than 15 differently numbered white gold examples sold at auction in the twenty years before its 2022 lot.

The crystal is synthetic sapphire. Rolex and auction catalogues describe the 5100 as the brand's first watch to use sapphire; sapphire became more common in later Rolex production.

== Bracelets, end links, and clasps ==

[[File:Ref 5100 bracelet.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=Angled view of a white gold Rolex 5100 showing the faceted integrated bracelet|Integrated faceted-link bracelet on a white gold example, Phillips Hong Kong.]]

The bracelet is integrated with the case rather than a separate fitment, built in the same 18K gold as the case, with a concealed deployant clasp. One Antiquorum-catalogued yellow gold example names its bracelet maker directly: Jean-Pierre Ecoffey of Geneva, a detail not repeated on any of the other sourced lots and not established here as the standard supplier for the line as a whole. Bracelet lengths recorded across the sourced lots run from about 170mm to 200mm, consistent with an adjustable integrated design rather than a fixed single length.

== Special branches: the CEH consortium and the Beta 21 ==

The 5100 uses the Beta 21 movement shared by the CEH consortium. The Centre Electronique Horloger began work on a quartz wristwatch caliber in the early 1960s. Sources cited for the project describe a Beta 1 prototype in 1960 and the Beta 21 entering series production in 1969, with a stated accuracy of about five seconds per month.

CEH members used the shared Beta 21 under their own references and case designs. Patek Philippe ref. 3587 and the IWC Da Vinci are documented examples. Rolex's contribution was the angular tonneau case used for the 5100.

By 1972, Rolex had discontinued the 5100 and left the CEH. It then spent five years developing the proprietary Oysterquartz calibers 5035 and 5055, designed to fit a standard Oyster case.

== Auction record ==

{| class="wikitable"
! Sale
! Date
! Metal
! Case No.
! Result
|-
| Christie's, Geneva
| May 2017
| white gold, new-old-stock
| 794
| estimate CHF100,000-150,000
|-
| Christie's, Geneva
| May 2017
| yellow gold
| n/a
| estimate CHF15,000-25,000
|-
| Sotheby's
| 2014
| white gold, full set
| n/a
| sold CHF125,000 (estimate CHF30,000-50,000)
|-
| Sotheby's
| 2013
| white gold
| n/a
| sold CHF32,500 (estimate CHF15,000-25,000)
|-
| Phillips, The Geneva Watch Auction: NINE
| 12 May 2019
| white gold
| 192
| sold CHF62,500 (estimate CHF15,000-25,000)
|-
| Phillips, The Geneva Watch Auction: XX
| 2024
| white gold
| 192
| sold CHF48,260 (estimate CHF30,000-60,000)
|-
| Phillips, The Hong Kong Watch Auction: FIVE
| n/a
| white gold
| 184
| estimate HK$350,000-550,000
|-
| Phillips, The Hong Kong Watch Auction: EIGHT
| n/a
| yellow gold ("Texano")
| 644
| estimate HK$160,000-250,000
|-
| Sotheby's, Important Watches: Part II
| n/a
| white gold ("The Texan")
| 225/87
| estimate CHF30,000-50,000
|-
| Sotheby's, Watches Weekly, Geneva
| n/a
| yellow gold ("The Texan")
| 315/249
| estimate CHF12,000-18,000
|-
| Antiquorum, Hong Kong
| 23 July 2020
| yellow gold
| 104
| estimate HKD135,000-230,000
|-
| Christie's, New York, Kairos Collection Part III
| 2022
| white gold
| 773
| lot 104
|}

The auction sample is too small and spans several currencies and years to support a price trend. It also mixes full sets with watch-only lots and contains more white-gold records than yellow-gold records. Christie's, Phillips, Sotheby's, and Antiquorum each catalogue the 5100 in the records listed here.

<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
File:Ref 5100 hero.webp|Rolex 5100 Beta 21, front view
File:Ref 5100 caseback.webp|Caseback with engraved edition number
File:Ref 5100 bracelet.webp|Integrated gold bracelet
</gallery>

== Sources ==

* src-christies-2022-5100-wg-773
* src-phillips-hk5-5100-wg-902
* src-phillips-genevaxx-5100-wg-182
* src-phillips-genevaix-5100-wg-126470
* src-phillips-hk8-5100-yg-texano-1116
* src-sothebys-5100-wg-importantwatchespart2
* src-sothebys-5100-yg-watchesweekly
* src-antiquorum-2020-5100-yg-lot325
* src-hodinkee-2017-barrett-5100-christies
* src-oysterquartz-net-5100-quartzdate
* [https://www.the1916company.com/blog/rolex-quartz-movement.html The 1916 Company editorial, "Rolex Quartz Movement History: Beta 21, Oysterquartz & Rare Models", The 1916 Company]

[[Category:Beta-21]]

--- 12460 chars, 0 images ---

Reference:5100

2026-09-29T09:46:06Z

Klaudiusz: Deep audit: correct Reference 5100 prose, hero placement, and gallery

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex 5100 Beta 21}}

{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Beta 21 5100 — First Quartz Watch | Rolexopedia
|description=Rolex reference 5100: the Beta 21 quartz movement, the CEH consortium, production dates, case materials, and the documented auction record.
|image=Ref 5100 hero.webp
|type=article
}}

<small>[[Reference:beta-21|Beta 21]] → '''5100'''</small>

<div class="rp-lead">
[[File:Ref 5100 hero.webp|thumb|center|640px|alt=Rolex Beta 21 ref. 5100 in white gold, front view, on its integrated bracelet|Rolex Beta 21 ref. 5100 in 18K white gold, Phillips Hong Kong.]]
</div>

Rolex launched Ref. 5100 on 5 June 1970 as its first quartz wristwatch. The watch used the 13-jewel, 8kHz Beta 21 module developed by the Centre Electronique Horloger (CEH), a consortium of about twenty Swiss watch houses that included Omega, Patek Philippe, and Piaget. Rolex designed the 5100's case, dial, and integrated bracelet around that shared movement; the movement itself was a consortium design.

Rolex discontinued the 5100 in 1972 and left the CEH that year. It then developed the proprietary calibers 5035 and 5055 for the Oysterquartz line, introduced in 1977. Auction catalogues also call the 5100 "Texano" or "The Texan"; those names are used in dealer and auction-house catalogues rather than in the Rolex references cited here.

== Core facts ==

{| class="wikitable"
! detail
! value
|-
| reference
| 5100
|-
| model names
| Beta 21; also catalogued as "Texano" or "The Texan"
|-
| production
| 1970-1972
|-
| case materials
| 18K yellow gold, 18K white gold
|-
| case diameter
| approximately 39mm across the width (tonneau case; see Case, bezel, crystal, and crown)
|-
| case shape
| tonneau, angular
|-
| crystal
| sapphire, Rolex's first
|-
| movement
| Beta 21 quartz module, cal. RE10, Beta 21; 8kHz, 13 jewels (one lot records 15, see Movement notes)
|-
| dial
| silvered (white gold cases) or gilt/gold-coloured (yellow gold cases); text reads "water resistant," not "waterproof"
|-
| bracelet
| integrated, same metal as the case, concealed deployant clasp
|}

== Where it sits in the line ==

The 5100 was Rolex's contribution to the CEH quartz project. Rolex joined about twenty other Swiss manufacturers instead of developing a movement alone. The resulting Beta 21 powered watches such as Patek Philippe ref. 3587 and the IWC Da Vinci, while each manufacturer designed its own case and dial.

The 5100 differs from Rolex's other watches of the period. It uses a non-Oyster, non-waterproof tonneau case with a screw crown because the Beta 21's dimensions required a different case design. In this model, the movement set the case constraints.

After leaving the CEH in 1972, Rolex developed the proprietary calibers 5035 and 5055 for the [[Reference:19018|Oysterquartz]], launched in 1977. The Beta 21 was a shared consortium movement; the Oysterquartz calibers were Rolex designs made for a conventional Oyster case. The 5100 therefore belongs to the Beta 21 project rather than to the later Oysterquartz family.

== Production outline ==

Documented case numbers include 104, 184, 192 (twice), 644, 773, and 794, together with dealer references to numbers above 1,000. Individual watches carry an engraved edition number rather than a conventional Rolex serial. The published sources reviewed here do not establish a confirmed total production figure.

Christie's calls a 1,000-piece run, 900 in yellow gold, 100 in white gold, "believed" rather than confirmed. Hodinkee lays out three separate, mutually exclusive collector theories: something close to 700 yellow gold and 300 white gold; something closer to 900 and 100; or two separate batches of 900 yellow and 100 white apiece, for roughly 2,000 total. None of the three theories is sourced to a Rolex production document, and the published examples include numbers above 1,000. The supported conclusion is narrower: production ran from 1970 to 1972 in yellow and white gold, while the total quantity remains undocumented in the sources reviewed here.

One case number turns up twice in the Phillips record. Case No. 192 sold at The Geneva Watch Auction: NINE in May 2019 for CHF62,500 against a CHF15,000-25,000 estimate, then reappeared at The Geneva Watch Auction: XX in 2024, selling for CHF48,260 against a CHF30,000-60,000 estimate. The matching number and repeated auction description are consistent with one watch being re-consigned, but the records do not prove that.

== Movement notes ==

The Beta 21 was not a Rolex design. The CEH developed it collaboratively, first showing a prototype in 1967. In 1968 the consortium's roughly twenty member houses agreed to produce about 6,000 of the movements, and a few hundred Beta 21 watches appeared at Baselworld in 1969, a year before Rolex's own 5100 reached the market. One source puts the consortium at 21 watchmakers rather than 20; neither figure is resolved against the other here, and both are given with attribution rather than picking a winner. Rolex could make only limited modifications to the shared movement, which is the reason the case exists in the unusual form it does: the electronics came first, and the case had to be built around them.

Rolex and the auction houses catalogue the movement as cal. RE10, Beta 21, 8kHz, 13 jewels, in the descriptions given by Sotheby's, Christie's and Antiquorum. One Phillips lot (The Hong Kong Watch Auction: EIGHT) instead gives 15 jewels for the same designation. Nothing in the sourced record explains the gap, and no second lot corroborates it, so it reads as a catalogue transcription slip rather than a documented second variant.

The Beta 21 uses a sweep centre-seconds hand driven through a pallet wheel. Christie's describes this as a feature of the early Beta 21 generation; later quartz movements commonly used a stepper motor with a one-second jump.

Rolex's own successor movements, cal. 5035 and 5055, share none of this architecture. They are proprietary designs built five years later specifically to fit a standard Oyster case, a different engineering answer to a problem the Beta 21 had already tried to solve.

== Dial map ==

Two documented dial colours track the two case metals: silvered dials on white gold cases, gilt or gold-coloured dials on yellow gold cases. Both carry "ROLEX" and "QUARTZ" printed on the dial, a date aperture at 3 o'clock, and, on at least one yellow gold example catalogued by Antiquorum, a Cyclops lens over the date. The dial text itself carries one detail worth noting for what it does not say: it reads "water resistant," not the "waterproof" language Rolex used across its Oyster-cased catalogue of the same years, a small wording difference that tracks the case's non-Oyster construction rather than a lesser build standard.

== Case, bezel, crystal, and crown ==

[[File:Ref 5100 caseback.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=Caseback of a Rolex 5100 engraved with the limited-edition number 104|Caseback of case No. 104, engraved with its limited-edition number, Antiquorum Hong Kong.]]

The case is tonneau-shaped and integrated with the bracelet. Phillips describes its lines as angular and calls the design the first major departure from the Oyster case; the 5100 itself is not an Oyster case. It has a snap-on back and a fluted bezel.

Case diameter is given as approximately 39mm across the width on the majority of sourced lots, four separate Phillips lots and one Antiquorum lot agree on this figure. One Christie's lot gives 40mm, and Antiquorum records one example at 45 x 39mm, measuring both axes of the tonneau shape rather than a single diameter. Taken together, these read as measurement-convention differences on a non-round case rather than evidence of more than one case size.

Every documented case is 18K gold, yellow or white, with no steel examples surfacing across the sourced auction record. White gold examples are consistently described as the scarcer of the two: Phillips catalogue language calls white gold "exceedingly rarer" and states that "no more than a handful" of white gold examples have ever come to auction, while Christie's puts a number on it directly, fewer than 15 differently numbered white gold examples sold at auction in the twenty years before its 2022 lot.

The crystal is synthetic sapphire. Rolex and auction catalogues describe the 5100 as the brand's first watch to use sapphire; sapphire became more common in later Rolex production.

== Bracelets, end links, and clasps ==

[[File:Ref 5100 bracelet.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=Angled view of a white gold Rolex 5100 showing the faceted integrated bracelet|Integrated faceted-link bracelet on a white gold example, Phillips Hong Kong.]]

The bracelet is integrated with the case rather than a separate fitment, built in the same 18K gold as the case, with a concealed deployant clasp. One Antiquorum-catalogued yellow gold example names its bracelet maker directly: Jean-Pierre Ecoffey of Geneva, a detail not repeated on any of the other sourced lots and not established here as the standard supplier for the line as a whole. Bracelet lengths recorded across the sourced lots run from about 170mm to 200mm, consistent with an adjustable integrated design rather than a fixed single length.

== Special branches: the CEH consortium and the Beta 21 ==

The 5100 uses the Beta 21 movement shared by the CEH consortium. The Centre Electronique Horloger began work on a quartz wristwatch caliber in the early 1960s. Sources cited for the project describe a Beta 1 prototype in 1960 and the Beta 21 entering series production in 1969, with a stated accuracy of about five seconds per month.

CEH members used the shared Beta 21 under their own references and case designs. Patek Philippe ref. 3587 and the IWC Da Vinci are documented examples. Rolex's contribution was the angular tonneau case used for the 5100.

By 1972, Rolex had discontinued the 5100 and left the CEH. It then spent five years developing the proprietary Oysterquartz calibers 5035 and 5055, designed to fit a standard Oyster case.

== Auction record ==

{| class="wikitable"
! Sale
! Date
! Metal
! Case No.
! Result
|-
| Christie's, Geneva
| May 2017
| white gold, new-old-stock
| 794
| estimate CHF100,000-150,000
|-
| Christie's, Geneva
| May 2017
| yellow gold
| n/a
| estimate CHF15,000-25,000
|-
| Sotheby's
| 2014
| white gold, full set
| n/a
| sold CHF125,000 (estimate CHF30,000-50,000)
|-
| Sotheby's
| 2013
| white gold
| n/a
| sold CHF32,500 (estimate CHF15,000-25,000)
|-
| Phillips, The Geneva Watch Auction: NINE
| 12 May 2019
| white gold
| 192
| sold CHF62,500 (estimate CHF15,000-25,000)
|-
| Phillips, The Geneva Watch Auction: XX
| 2024
| white gold
| 192
| sold CHF48,260 (estimate CHF30,000-60,000)
|-
| Phillips, The Hong Kong Watch Auction: FIVE
| n/a
| white gold
| 184
| estimate HK$350,000-550,000
|-
| Phillips, The Hong Kong Watch Auction: EIGHT
| n/a
| yellow gold ("Texano")
| 644
| estimate HK$160,000-250,000
|-
| Sotheby's, Important Watches: Part II
| n/a
| white gold ("The Texan")
| 225/87
| estimate CHF30,000-50,000
|-
| Sotheby's, Watches Weekly, Geneva
| n/a
| yellow gold ("The Texan")
| 315/249
| estimate CHF12,000-18,000
|-
| Antiquorum, Hong Kong
| 23 July 2020
| yellow gold
| 104
| estimate HKD135,000-230,000
|-
| Christie's, New York, Kairos Collection Part III
| 2022
| white gold
| 773
| lot 104
|}

The auction sample is too small and spans several currencies and years to support a price trend. It also mixes full sets with watch-only lots and contains more white-gold records than yellow-gold records. Christie's, Phillips, Sotheby's, and Antiquorum each catalogue the 5100 in the records listed here.

<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
File:Ref 5100 hero.webp|Rolex 5100 Beta 21, front view
File:Ref 5100 caseback.webp|Caseback with engraved edition number
File:Ref 5100 bracelet.webp|Integrated gold bracelet
</gallery>

== Sources ==

* src-christies-2022-5100-wg-773
* src-phillips-hk5-5100-wg-902
* src-phillips-genevaxx-5100-wg-182
* src-phillips-genevaix-5100-wg-126470
* src-phillips-hk8-5100-yg-texano-1116
* src-sothebys-5100-wg-importantwatchespart2
* src-sothebys-5100-yg-watchesweekly
* src-antiquorum-2020-5100-yg-lot325
* src-hodinkee-2017-barrett-5100-christies
* src-oysterquartz-net-5100-quartzdate
* [https://www.the1916company.com/blog/rolex-quartz-movement.html The 1916 Company editorial, "Rolex Quartz Movement History: Beta 21, Oysterquartz & Rare Models", The 1916 Company]

[[Category:Beta-21]]

--- 12482 chars, 0 images ---

Reference:4453

2026-09-29T09:41:49Z

Klaudiusz: Bound 4453 auction and dial claims; remove promotional framing

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex 4453 Oyster Royal}}
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Oyster Royal 4453 — Charlie Chaplin Provenance | Rolexopedia
|description=Rolex reference 4453: a manual-wind Oyster Royal documented in two watches, one catalogued by Antiquorum as having belonged to Charlie Chaplin.
|image=Ref 4453 hero.webp
|type=article
}}

<small>Oyster → '''4453'''</small>

<div class="rp-lead">
[[File:Ref 4453 hero.webp|thumb|center|640px|alt=Rolex Oyster Royal 4453 retailed by Asprey, photographed with accompanying family photographs and a service-return letter, Antiquorum 2013|Rolex Oyster Royal 4453 retailed by Asprey, photographed with accompanying family photographs and a service-return letter, Antiquorum 2013]]
</div>

The 4453 is a manual-wind Oyster Royal represented in two auction records reviewed here. Antiquorum catalogued one white-enamel, Asprey-retailed example as having belonged to Charlie Chaplin. Bonhams recorded a second steel example with a printed silvered dial; it appeared in two listings before selling in December 2023. The lots differ in provenance, condition, and dial, so their results cannot be used to isolate a reference-wide price effect.

==Core facts==

{| class="wikitable rp-facts"
|-
! detail
! value
|-
| reference
| 4453
|-
| family
| Oyster (manual-wind)
|-
| documented examples
| circa 1945 (Antiquorum); c.1958 (Bonhams)
|-
| case shape
| round Oyster case with straight lugs, per photography of both examples
|-
| case diameter
| 31mm (Antiquorum); 32mm (Bonhams)
|-
| crown
| screw-down
|-
| winding
| manual
|-
| seconds
| centre, on both documented examples
|-
| movement
| 17-jewel Cal. 10½-ligne (Antiquorum example); 15-jewel, No. 68224 (Bonhams example) — no shared caliber number stated
|-
| case material
| stainless steel (both documented examples)
|-
| notable provenance
| Antiquorum catalogued its example as having belonged to Charlie Chaplin
|}

==Where it sits in the line==

Rolex sold manual-wind Oyster Royal watches alongside the automatic Perpetual Bubbleback line through the 1930s to 1950s, aimed at buyers who wanted the waterproof Oyster case without the automatic movement's added cost. The 4453 belongs to that manual branch. Its numerical neighbor, ref. 1873, is another Oyster Royal documented on this wiki from a small auction corpus. Neither page establishes a production run from those records.

==Production outline==

Antiquorum dates its example "circa 1945." Bonhams dates its example "c.1958." Thirteen years apart, these are two data points on two individual watches, not a production window for the reference.

==Movement notes==

The two documented examples carry different jewel counts. Antiquorum's watch has a 17-jewel Cal. 10½-ligne movement, rhodium-plated, with a straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance, flat balance spring, and index regulator. Bonhams' watch has a 15-jewel manual-wind movement numbered 68224. Neither catalogue names a shared caliber, and the jewel-count difference is documented without explanation in either source.

==Dial map==

<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
File:Ref 4453 dial-detail.webp|alt=Rolex Oyster Royal 4453 silvered dial with SHOCK-RESISTING text|Bonhams example: silvered dial printed "ROLEX OYSTER ROYAL" and "SHOCK-RESISTING," gilt Arabic numerals at 12, 3, 6 and 9
</gallery>

The two documented examples show two very different dials. Antiquorum's watch has a white enamel dial with painted radial Arabic numerals, an outer 1/5th-seconds track with five-second Arabic markers, blued steel spade hands, and a retailer signature reading "Asprey." Bonhams' watch has a two-tone silvered dial printed "ROLEX OYSTER ROYAL" and "SHOCK-RESISTING," gilt baton markers with luminous dots, gilt Arabic numerals at 12, 3, 6 and 9, luminous-filled hands and a blued centre-seconds hand.

These two lots document the dial treatments described here. They are not a complete factory or surviving-watch dial survey.

==Case, bezel, crystal, and crown==

[[File:Ref 4453 on-wrist.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=Rolex Oyster Royal 4453 on wrist, round case|Bonhams example on the wrist, showing the round case and straight lugs]]

Both documented cases are round Oyster cases with straight lugs and a screw-down back and crown, confirmed by photography of both examples. Antiquorum's watch measures 31mm with concave lugs; Bonhams' measures 32mm.

Bonhams' own catalogue text calls its example's case "brushed and polished tonneau form" — but the lot's own photography, both the dial shot and the on-wrist shot, shows a round case, not a tonneau shape. That is a catalogue-description discrepancy rather than a documented tonneau variant; the photograph is the more reliable evidence, and the mismatch is reported here rather than silently corrected.

==Auction record==

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Venue
! Date
! Lot
! Case/movement no.
! Dial
! Estimate
! Result
|-
| Antiquorum, "Important Modern and Vintage Timepieces," New York
| 2013-04-10
| 300
| Case 340362
| White enamel, Asprey signature
| USD 8,000–12,000
| USD 51,250
|-
| Bonhams, "Watches Online"
| 2023-12-05
| 37
| Movement No. 68224
| Silvered, "SHOCK-RESISTING"
| —
| USD 1,280 inc. premium
|}

The Bonhams watch was first offered, unsold, as lot 28 of "Watches: A Private Canadian Collection" in June 2023 (estimate USD 1,500–2,500), then re-consigned and sold five months later — the same physical watch across two listings, not two examples.

The two results differ substantially, but the catalogues also describe different provenance, condition, and dial configurations. Two lots are insufficient to establish a price pattern for the reference as a whole.

==Notable provenance==

Antiquorum's 2013 catalogue attributes the lot to Charlie Chaplin, noting it is "accompanied by 4 photos and various authenticating correspondence." The lot photograph shows the watch alongside family photographs and a typed letter from "C.R. Frost & Son" of Hatton Garden, London, returning "Mr Chaplin's Rolex watch" after service. The watch's dial is signed by Asprey, the retailer named in Antiquorum's lot title; the Frost & Son letter documents a repair, not the original sale, so the two names describe different commercial roles rather than a contradiction. Antiquorum's lot title also describes the watch as a left-handed configuration.

This is Antiquorum's own documentation and attribution. This project has not independently traced the chain of ownership beyond what the auction house published, and presents the Chaplin association as a catalogued claim rather than an independently confirmed fact.

== Related references ==

* [[Reference:1873|Oyster Royal 1873]] — sibling Oyster Royal reference, also a thin two-lot corpus
* [[Reference:2765|Oyster Chronometer 2765]]
* [[Reference:3009|Oyster Chronometre Scientific 3009]]

See also the [[Reference:bubbleback|Bubbleback family index]], [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial numbers by year]].

== Sources ==

* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-271-300 "Charlie Chaplin's left handed Rolex wristwatch, steel & enamel — Rolex Oyster, retailed by Asprey, London, case No. 340362, ref. 4453", Antiquorum, 2013-04-10]
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/28335/lot/37/rolex-a-stainless-steel-manual-wind-wristwatch-oyster-royal-ref-4453-c-1958/ "Rolex. A stainless steel manual wind wristwatch, Oyster Royal, Ref: 4453, c.1958", Bonhams, 2023-12-05]

[[Category:Oyster]]

Reference:4444

2026-09-29T09:40:32Z

Klaudiusz: Remove promotional and overbroad 4444 wording; bound auction scope

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex 4444 Oyster Royal}}
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Oyster Royal 4444 — Eight Documented Examples | Rolexopedia
|description=Rolex reference 4444: a manual-wind Oyster Royal documented across eight individual watches at Antiquorum and Bonhams, with a dial signature that shifts between "Oyster Royal," "Oyster," and no Oyster wording at all.
|image=Ref 4444 hero.webp
|type=article
}}

<small>Oyster → '''4444'''</small>

<div class="rp-lead">
[[File:Ref 4444 hero.webp|thumb|center|640px|alt=Rolex Oyster Royal 4444, stainless steel, cream dial, leather strap, Bonhams 2025|Rolex Oyster Royal 4444, stainless steel, cream dial, leather strap, Bonhams 2025]]
</div>

The 4444 is a manual-wind Oyster documented in auction records from 2000 through 2025. The eight Antiquorum and Bonhams records reviewed here cover 30–32 mm cases, mostly signed “ROLEX OYSTER ROYAL.” One dial is catalogued as “ROLEX OYSTER,” and one steel-and-gold example is described without Oyster-line wording. Those records are examples rather than a complete surviving-watch census.

==Core facts==

{| class="wikitable rp-facts"
|-
! detail
! value
|-
| reference
| 4444
|-
| family
| Oyster (manual-wind)
|-
| documented examples
| eight, Antiquorum (2000) and Bonhams (2011, 2018, 2020 x2, 2023 x2, 2025)
|-
| case shape
| tonneau form on most examples; one described as round
|-
| case diameter
| 30-32mm across the documented population
|-
| crown
| screw-down
|-
| winding
| manual
|-
| seconds
| centre, on all eight documented examples
|-
| movement
| 15-jewel manual wind; 10 3/4-ligne per Antiquorum's lot; no caliber number given in any source
|-
| case material
| stainless steel (seven of eight examples); steel with an engraved gold bezel (one example)
|-
| dial signature
| varies: "ROLEX OYSTER ROYAL" (most), "ROLEX OYSTER" (one), no Oyster wording (one)
|}

==Where it sits in the line==

The 4444 belongs to the same manual-wind Oyster Royal branch Rolex sold through the late 1940s and 1950s alongside the automatic Perpetual Bubbleback line, aimed at buyers who wanted the Oyster case's water resistance without the added cost of an automatic movement. It belongs to the manual-wind Oyster group that includes references 1873, 2765, and 4453. The reviewed lots provide configuration and auction evidence for this reference; they do not establish its production volume or precedence within that group.

==Production outline==

No factory production window is documented for the 4444. Eight individual watches carry auction-house circa-dates spanning 1948 to 1960: a Bonhams 2025 lot dates its example "circa 1948" (case no. 664303), while five later Bonhams lots date their examples "circa 1957" through "circa 1960" against case numbers in the 357,000-505,000 range. The case-number and catalogue-date pairings do not produce a usable chronology. The discrepancy is retained as a source-level dating conflict; it does not establish a production sequence. Antiquorum's own 2000 lot carries no date beyond "1950's."

==Movement notes==

Every documented example runs a 15-jewel manual-wind movement. Antiquorum's lot gives the fullest technical account: 10 3/4 lignes, rhodium-plated, lever escapement, monometallic Superbalance balance, self-compensating Breguet balance-spring. No source among the eight names a specific Rolex caliber number, and none is asserted here.

==Dial map==

<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
File:Ref 4444 dial-variant-black-numerals.webp|alt=Rolex Oyster Royal 4444 white dial with black Arabic numerals and cubist hands|Bonhams 2023: white dial, black Arabic numerals, "cubist style" hands
File:Ref 4444 dial-variant-gilt-bracelet.webp|alt=Rolex Oyster Royal 4444 silvered dial with gilt Arabic numerals on an Oyster-link bracelet|Bonhams 2020: silvered dial with applied gilt Arabic numerals, gilt pointed baton hands, Oyster-link bracelet
</gallery>

Dial text varies across the eight documented examples and is not limited to a two-way split. Most read "ROLEX" over "OYSTER ROYAL," with "SHOCK RESISTING" (or "SHOCK-RESISTING," with a hyphen on at least one example) printed beneath the centre. One 2018 Bonhams lot reads "ROLEX OYSTER" only, dropping "Royal." One 2011 Bonhams lot — the steel case with the engraved gold bezel — carries no Oyster-line wording in its documented description at all. Hour markers vary with the dial: applied gilt or luminous Arabic numerals are most common, one example uses black cubist-style Arabic numerals with matching black hands, and the gold-bezel example uses dagger markers with tapered luminous gilt hands rather than numerals. Hands are correspondingly varied: gilt dauphine-style, black cubist, blued steel baton with luminous inserts, and gilt pointed baton all appear across the population.

These eight records document the configurations listed here. They do not form a complete factory or surviving-watch dial survey.

==Case, bezel, crystal, and crown==

[[File:Ref 4444 bracelet.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=Rolex Oyster Royal 4444 on an Oyster rivet-link bracelet, tropical dial|Bonhams 2018: fitted to an Oyster rivet-link bracelet, tropical-toned dial]]

Case construction is described by Antiquorum as "two-body," with a screw-down caseback and crown confirmed on every documented example's catalogue text. Most lots describe a tonneau-form case; one (the 2025 Bonhams lot, case no. 664303) is instead described as "brushed and polished round." Case sizes run 30mm on the steel-and-gold example up to 32mm on most of the solid-steel examples, with one at 31mm.

Seven of the eight documented cases are solid stainless steel. The eighth, sold at Bonhams in 2011, pairs a stainless steel case with an engraved gold bezel carrying applied hour markers — a genuine documented material variant, not evidence on its own of a distinct solid-gold or two-tone production run.

Two of the eight examples are fitted to Oyster-pattern metal bracelets rather than leather straps: a rivet-link bracelet (2018, accompanied by a spare bracelet and further spare parts) and a plain Oyster-link bracelet (2023). The 2018 bracelet's folding clasp is stamped "1 61," a clasp date code reading January 1961 under this project's published clasp-code convention — which dates the bracelet, not the circa-1957 watch head it is currently fitted to, consistent with a later-fitted or service-replaced bracelet rather than a contradiction of the head's own dating.

==Auction record==

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Venue
! Date
! Lot
! Case no.
! Material
! Result
|-
| Antiquorum, Geneva
| 2000-10-15
| 52
| —
| Steel, pink gold indexes/hands
| est. CHF 1,200-1,400 (result not recorded)
|-
| Bonhams
| 2011-06-16
| 111
| 589974
| Steel, engraved gold bezel
| USD 700 hammer (USD 854 with premium)
|-
| Bonhams
| 2018-09-11
| 49
| 358***
| Steel, Oyster rivet bracelet
| GBP 750 hammer (GBP 937.50 with premium)
|-
| Bonhams
| 2020-02-18
| 92
| 357***
| Steel, "recently serviced"
| GBP 850 hammer (GBP 1,083.75 with premium)
|-
| Bonhams
| 2020-02-18
| 94
| 505***
| Steel, Oyster-link bracelet
| GBP 650 hammer (GBP 828.75 with premium)
|-
| Bonhams
| 2023-09-13
| 40
| 358076
| Steel, personal caseback engraving
| GBP 800 hammer (GBP 1,024 with premium)
|-
| Bonhams
| 2023-11-22
| 58
| 505890
| Steel, Oyster-link bracelet
| GBP 750 hammer (GBP 960 with premium)
|-
| Bonhams
| 2025-12-03
| 66
| 664303
| Steel, leather strap
| GBP 950 hammer (GBP 1,216 with premium)
|}

The results use different currencies, estimates, dates, and condition descriptions. They are listed as lot-level market records; this sample is too small and mixed to establish a price trend.

== Related references ==

* [[Reference:1873|Oyster Royal 1873]] — sibling Oyster Royal reference
* [[Reference:4453|Oyster Royal 4453]] — sibling Oyster Royal reference, published the same week
* [[Reference:2765|Oyster Chronometer 2765]]
* [[Reference:3009|Oyster Chronometre Scientific 3009]]

See also the [[Reference:bubbleback|Bubbleback family index]], [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial numbers by year]].

== Sources ==

* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-63-52 "Rolex Oyster, 'Shock-Resisting', Ref. 4444, 1950's", Antiquorum, Geneva, 15 October 2000, Lot 52]
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/19216/lot/111/rolex-a-stainless-steel-and-gold-center-seconds-wristwatchref-4444-case-no-589974/ "Rolex. A stainless steel and gold center seconds wristwatch, Ref: 4444, Case no. 589974", Bonhams, 16 June 2011]
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/24629/lot/49/rolex-a-stainless-steel-manual-wind-bracelet-watch-oyster-ref-4444-circa-1957/ "Rolex. A stainless steel manual wind bracelet watch Oyster, Ref: 4444, Circa 1957", Bonhams, 11 September 2018]
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/25954/lot/92/rolex-a-recently-serviced-stainless-steel-manual-wind-wristwatch-oyster-royal-ref-4444-circa-1958/ "Rolex. A recently serviced stainless steel manual wind wristwatch Oyster Royal, Ref: 4444, Circa 1958", Bonhams, 18 February 2020]
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/25954/lot/94/rolex-a-stainless-steel-manual-wind-bracelet-watch-oyster-royal-ref-4444-circa-1960/ "Rolex. A stainless steel manual wind bracelet watch Oyster Royal, Ref: 4444, Circa 1960", Bonhams, 18 February 2020]
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/28034/lot/40/rolex-a-stainless-steel-manual-wind-wristwatch-oyster-royal-ref-4444-circa-1958/ "Rolex. A stainless steel manual wind wristwatch Oyster Royal, Ref: 4444, Circa 1958", Bonhams, 13 September 2023]
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/28035/lot/58/rolex-a-stainless-steel-manual-wind-bracelet-watch-oyster-royal-ref-4444-circa-1959/ "Rolex. A stainless steel manual wind bracelet watch Oyster Royal, Ref: 4444, Circa 1959", Bonhams, 22 November 2023]
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/30664/lot/66/rolex-a-stainless-steel-manual-wind-wristwatch-oyster-royal-ref-4444-circa-1948/ "Rolex. A stainless steel manual wind wristwatch Oyster Royal, Ref: 4444, Circa 1948", Bonhams, 3 December 2025]

[[Category:Oyster]]

Reference:2736

2026-09-29T09:39:18Z

Klaudiusz: Bound 2736 dial scope and remove promotional wording

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex 2736 Prince}}
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Prince 2736 — Steel and 9K Gold Auction Record | Rolexopedia
|description=Rolex reference 2736: a 1930s rectangular Prince documented in stainless steel and 9K gold across two Bonhams auction lots, with two distinct dial treatments.
|image=Ref 2736 hero.webp
|type=article
}}

<small>[[Reference:prince|Prince]] → '''2736'''</small>

<div class="rp-lead">
[[File:Ref 2736 hero.webp|thumb|center|640px|alt=Rolex Prince 2736 in stainless steel, case 025541, Bonhams 2024|Rolex Prince 2736 in stainless steel, case 025541, Bonhams 2024]]
</div>

The 2736 is a rectangular Rolex Prince documented in two case materials: stainless steel and 9K gold. Two Bonhams lots, five years apart, catalogue it under Bonhams' own structured "Reference: 2736" field, distinct from either watch's case number. Neither lot carries a Railway, Dauphin, Brancard, or Imperial-style nickname — the reference reads as a plain Prince, without a distinguishing case-shape name attached to it in the auction record.

==Core facts==

{| class="wikitable rp-facts"
|-
! detail
! value
|-
| reference
| 2736
|-
| family
| Prince (manual-wind, rectangular)
|-
| documented examples
| circa 1930 (steel); Glasgow import mark for 1938 (9K gold)
|-
| case shape
| rectangular, stepped/faceted profile
|-
| case size
| 22mm x 31mm (steel); 22mm x 30mm (gold)
|-
| crown
| plain pull-out, not screw-down
|-
| movement
| 15-jewel manual wind; caliber not published in either catalogue
|-
| case materials
| stainless steel (case 025541); 9K gold (case 46251)
|-
| dial
| two treatments documented — see Dial map
|}

==Where it sits in the line==

Rolex's Prince line ran through the 1920s and 1930s as the company's rectangular Art Deco dress watch, built around the Aegler 10½-ligne movement family and sold under a scatter of case-shape names — Railway, Dauphin, Brancard, Imperial, and others — each tied to a specific stepped or faceted case profile. The 2736 does not carry one of those names in either documented sale. Both Bonhams catalogues describe it simply as "Prince," which places it among the reference's plainer, unnamed rectangular case variants rather than one of the line's named Art Deco shapes.

The two documented 2736 examples share a case size close enough (22mm x 31mm and 22mm x 30mm) to read as the same case design in two metals, not two different models sharing a reference number by coincidence.

==Production outline==

Bonhams dates the steel example "circa 1930" by catalogue estimate. The gold example carries a Glasgow import hallmark for 1938 — an assay-office mark that dates when the watch entered the UK market, not necessarily when Rolex made it, so 1938 is a floor for that specific watch rather than a fixed manufacture year. Two data points eight years apart do not establish a production window; both are documented examples, not boundaries on a range.

Case numbers are known for both: 025541 (steel) and 46251 (gold). Two numbers do not support any reading of serial sequence for the reference.

==Movement notes==

Both documented examples carry a 15-jewel manual-wind movement. Neither Bonhams catalogue names a caliber number, and no other source consulted supplies one. On the wrist, both watches wind through a plain pull-out crown — the Prince line never adopted the Oyster's screw-down waterproofing system — and run a small seconds register at 6, standard for the Prince duo-dial architecture even where, as here, the register sits alone rather than beside a matching hours-and-minutes sub-dial.

==Dial map==

<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
File:Ref 2736 dial-steel.webp|alt=Rolex 2736 steel dial with baton markers|Steel example: plain "ROLEX" wordmark, no coronet, applied baton and dagger hour markers
File:Ref 2736 dial-gold.webp|alt=Rolex 2736 gold dial with Arabic numerals and coronet|Gold example: "ROLEX" below a coronet, applied gilt Arabic numerals, "SWISS MADE" at the dial foot
</gallery>

The two documented examples show two distinct dial treatments. The steel watch carries a silvered dial with a plain "ROLEX" wordmark and no coronet, applied baton and dagger hour markers, and a plain subsidiary-seconds register at 6. The gold watch carries a silvered dial with "ROLEX" printed below a coronet, applied gilt Arabic numerals at every hour, a railroad-style track ringing the subsidiary-seconds register, and "SWISS MADE" printed at the foot of the dial.

With only two Bonhams examples in the reviewed record, whether this split tracks case material, sale era, retailer preference, or watch-to-watch variation is not established. They are recorded as documented variants, not as a complete factory or surviving-watch dial survey.

==Case, bezel, crystal, and crown==

[[File:Ref 2736 case-profile.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=Rolex 2736 case profile showing the stepped rectangular form and plain crown|Case profile: stepped rectangular form and a plain, non-screw-down winding crown]]

Both documented cases are rectangular with a stepped, faceted profile characteristic of 1930s Prince construction. The steel example measures 22mm x 31mm; the gold example 22mm x 30mm — a 1mm difference in line with normal case-to-case tolerance rather than a documented size variant. Neither catalogue records crystal material. The crown on both is a plain pull-out type, not the screw-down Oyster system Rolex reserved for its waterproof sports and tool watches.

The steel case shows a snap or press-fit back carrying case number 025541 and a personal inscription; the gold case has a snap-on back carrying case number 46251 and a separate personal engraving. Neither engraving is transcribed here — both are private individual markings with no independent documentation tying them to a named collector or original owner.

==Bracelets, end links, and clasps==

Neither documented example is on a period-original strap. The steel watch carries an "associated" black leather strap with a steel buckle; the gold watch carries a brown leather strap with a gold-plated buckle. Bonhams does not claim either as original to the watch.

==Auction record==

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Venue
! Date
! Lot
! Case no.
! Material
! Dial
! Estimate
! Result
|-
| Bonhams, "Watches and Wristwatches," London Knightsbridge
| 2019-05-21
| 67
| 46251
| 9K gold
| Silvered, gilt Arabic numerals, coronet
| GBP 700–900
| GBP 892.50 inc. premium
|-
| Bonhams, "Weekly: Watches London" (online)
| 2024-05-08
| 107
| 025541
| Steel
| Silvered, baton/dagger markers, plain wordmark
| GBP 800–1,200
| GBP 1,088 inc. premium
|}

Two results, five years apart and in different case materials, are on record. Both sold within or close to estimate. Two results are not enough to establish a price pattern for the reference by material or dial variant.

== Related references ==

* [[Reference:1527|Prince 1527 "Railway"]] — stepped bi-color Prince with a documented case-shape nickname
* [[Reference:1490|Prince 1490]]
* [[Reference:1491|Prince 1491 Jump Hour]]
* [[Reference:1862|Prince 1862]]
* [[Reference:3361|Prince 3361]]
* [[Reference:3937|Prince 3937]]

See also the [[Reference:prince|Prince family index]], [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial numbers by year]].

== Sources ==

* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/29888/lot/107/rolex-a-stainless-steel-manual-wind-wristwatch-prince-ref-2736-circa-1930/ "Rolex. A stainless steel manual wind wristwatch, Prince, Ref: 2736, Circa 1930", Bonhams, 2024-05-08]
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/25395/lot/67/rolex-a-9k-gold-manual-wind-rectangular-wristwatch-prince-ref-2736-glasgow-import-mark-for-1938/ "Rolex. A 9K gold manual wind rectangular wristwatch, Prince, Ref: 2736, Glasgow Import mark for 1938", Bonhams, 2019-05-21]

[[Category:Prince]]

Reference:2595

2026-09-29T09:38:19Z

Klaudiusz: Use commas in related-reference list

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex 2595 Oyster Imperial}}

{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Oyster Imperial 2595 — Dial Names, Centre Seconds & Auction Record | Rolexopedia
|description=Rolex reference 2595: a manual-wind Oyster tonneau catalogued under five names, with centre seconds and seven documented auction watches from 1998 to 2026.
|image=Ref 2595 hero.webp
|type=article
}}

<small>Oyster → '''2595'''</small>

<div class="rp-lead">
[[File:Ref 2595 hero.webp|thumb|center|640px|alt=Rolex Oyster Royal 2595 in stainless steel, case 81442, engraved to a named RAF serviceman|Rolex Oyster Royal 2595, case 81442, engraved "C.McKENZIE 1250453 R.A.F.", Bonhams London Watches, February 2026]]
</div>

The 2595 is a manual-wind Oyster tonneau documented across seven auctioned watches in steel, 9ct
gold, 14K pink gold and 18K yellow gold, made from the second half of the 1930s into the mid-1940s.
Every catalogued example that specifies its seconds treatment carries a sweeping centre-seconds
hand. Small seconds registers, more common on hand-wound Oysters of the period, do not appear
anywhere in this record.

Auction houses have catalogued the reference under five names: Oyster Royal, an unqualified
Oyster, Oyster Chronometer or Chronomètre, Oyster Imperial, and the combined Oyster Impérial
Chronomètre, once alongside the Italian collector nickname "Ovetto" at a 1998 Christie's sale.
None of the seven documented watches shows a self-winding rotor in its catalogue description, so
despite surfacing on some Bubbleback candidate lists, the 2595 sits with the manual branch Rolex
kept building alongside the Perpetual line.

==Core facts==

{| class="wikitable rp-facts"
|-
! detail
! value
|-
| reference
| 2595
|-
| family
| Oyster (manual-wind)
|-
| production
| no confirmed range; documented examples run from a case Bonhams dates to 1935 through a Christie's-catalogued watch dated 1945, with three Antiquorum watches and one Bonhams watch clustering around circa 1938-1939
|-
| case diameter
| 29mm across four Antiquorum examples; 30mm and 34mm on two Bonhams examples
|-
| case shape
| tonneau, two-piece construction
|-
| caseback
| screw-down; one Antiquorum example explicitly described as flat and small
|-
| bezel
| graduated per Antiquorum's four watches; rounded per Bonhams's 9ct gold watch; fluted ("lunetta godronata") per Christie's on the 18K "Ovetto" watch
|-
| crystal
| material not established by the cited catalogues
|-
| crown
| screw-down
|-
| winding
| manual
|-
| seconds
| centre seconds on every watch whose catalogue specifies seconds treatment
|-
| movement
| 10-ligne manual, straight-line lever escapement, self-compensating Breguet balance-spring, 17 or 18 jewels; catalogued as "Superbalance" balance (Antiquorum) or an outright Ultra Prima grade (Bonhams, Christie's); no caliber number published
|-
| case materials
| stainless steel; 9ct gold; 14K pink gold; 18K yellow gold
|-
| dial designations
| Oyster Royal; Oyster (unqualified); Oyster Chronometer/Chronomètre; Oyster Imperial; Oyster Impérial Chronomètre ("Ovetto")
|-
| documented case numbers
| 81442; 71015; 43243
|}

==Where it sits in the line==

Rolex kept building hand-wound Oysters after the Perpetual rotor arrived in 1931. Hodinkee's
Bubbleback collecting guide calls these parallel manual-wind watches "flatbacks." All seven
documented 2595 watches carry manual movements, and none of the seven catalogues describes a
rotor, so despite the era overlap with the Bubbleback boom it belongs with the manual branch.

The five catalogue names split unevenly across the seven watches. Imperial branding, alone or
combined with Chronomètre, covers three watches: a Bonhams Oxford example, an Antiquorum steel
watch offered twice in Geneva in 2003, and the Christie's Milan gold watch. Chronometer or
Chronomètre without further qualification covers two more, in 18K yellow gold and 14K pink gold.
One steel watch is catalogued as Oyster Royal, and one 9ct gold watch as an unqualified Oyster.
Christie's also paired its Imperial watch with the Italian collector nickname "Ovetto" in the
lot title, layered on top of the Imperial branding, not a sixth catalogue name in its own right.

==Production outline==

The earliest and latest documented dates sit nine years apart. Bonhams titled its 9ct gold watch
by a case marking to 1935, though the cited listing does not detail which hallmark supports that
date. Christie's catalogued its 18K gold "Ovetto" watch to 1945. Between those two, Antiquorum
dated three watches and Bonhams one to "circa 1938" or "circa 1939." No source states a start or
end year for the reference as a whole, and the case numbers on record, 81442, 71015 and 43243, do
not span a wide enough or well-anchored enough range to define one.

Antiquorum's two Geneva appearances for a steel, Beyer-retailed watch, in June and October 2003,
share an identical case, dial and movement description and identical condition grading on both
lot pages. That reads as one watch failing to sell in June at an estimate of CHF 1,200-1,600 and
returning four months later at a reduced CHF 800-1,500, again without finding a buyer, not two
different watches.

Counting that repeat appearance once, the documented population runs to three steel watches, one
9ct gold, one 14K pink gold and two 18K yellow gold, one of them the "Ovetto." No two-tone
example has surfaced, and no source publishes a production total.

==Movement notes==

Antiquorum's four catalogue entries give the fullest technical picture: a 10-ligne movement,
rhodium-plated, with a straight-line lever escapement and a self-compensating Breguet
balance-spring, on watches dated 1998, 2002 and twice in 2003 (the same steel watch). Antiquorum
names the balance itself "Superbalance" on all four and reports 17 jewels with seven adjustment
positions on the 1998 pink gold watch, and 18 jewels with six positions on the 2002 yellow gold
watch and the 2003 steel watch.

Bonhams and Christie's instead grade two other watches' movements as an outright Ultra Prima,
without using the Superbalance term. Bonhams calls its 9ct gold watch's movement a 17-jewel Ultra
Prima timed to six positions; Christie's calls its 18K gold "Ovetto" watch's movement an Ultra
Prima with 18 jewels and a monometallic balance regulated in six positions. David Boettcher's
blog post "Prima, Extra Prima and Ultra Prima," published on vintagewatchstraps.com, traces the
grade hierarchy: Rolex used "Prima" from 1923, and Hans Wilsdorf registered "Ultra Prima" in his
own name on 9 December 1930. Boettcher's account covers the grade name; it says nothing about
Superbalance, which appears here only as Antiquorum's term for the balance component itself.
Bonhams gives no jewel count or grade for the steel RAF-engraved watch beyond "jewelled manual
wind," and the Oxford steel watch's catalogue gives no movement detail at all.

None of the seven catalogues stamps or names a caliber number. The specification that does
survive across all of them, a roughly 10-ligne manual movement with a straight-line lever,
Superbalance balance and self-compensating Breguet spring, matches the Cal. 10½ Hunter (700/710)
family on [[Reference:Movements|Movements]], already treated there as a plausible, not confirmed,
home for the manual movements on siblings [[Reference:2765|2765]] and [[Reference:3009|3009]]. No
stamped example has surfaced for the 2595 either, so the assignment stays open here too.

==Dial map==

Seven watches carry seven different dial treatments.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Catalogue name
! Case material
! Dial
! Source
|-
| Oyster Royal
| Stainless steel
| Silvered, luminous Arabic numeral hour markers, black outer minute track with Arabic 5-minute markers, blued steel pointed baton hands
| Bonhams, 2026
|-
| Oyster (unqualified)
| 9ct gold
| Arabic gilt dial with outside minute track, blued hands
| Bonhams, 2003
|-
| Oyster Imperial
| Stainless steel
| Cream-coloured, gilt Arabic numerals, outer minute scale 0-60
| Bonhams, 2012
|-
| Oyster Chronomètre
| 18K yellow gold
| Yellow, radium-coated Arabic and Roman numerals and bâton indexes, "Skeleton" radium-coated hands
| Antiquorum, 2002
|-
| Oyster Impérial Chronomètre
| Stainless steel
| Black enamel, inlaid yellow gold bâton indexes, "Feuille" yellow gold hands
| Antiquorum, 2003
|-
| Oyster Chronometer
| 14K pink gold
| Two-tone pink, radiumed Arabic numerals and indexes, "Skeleton" radiumed hands
| Antiquorum, 1998
|-
| Oyster Imperial "Ovetto"
| 18K yellow gold
| Black, raised indices and numbers
| Christie's, 1998
|}

Christie's is the only house to attach a nickname to a 2595 dial, and it appears only in the lot
title. The catalogue's own dial description reads no further than "black dial with raised indices
and numbers." "Ovetto" is Italian for a small egg, presumably describing the tonneau case. The
cited listing gives no indication that Rolex itself ever used the term, on this dial or otherwise.

Radium and radium-coated markings appear on both gold examples from the earliest years of the
record, 1998 and 2002; the two steel watches and the two remaining gold watches do not mention
radium in their catalogue text. Centre seconds is the one constant every catalogue that addresses
seconds treatment agrees on.

==Case, bezel, crystal, and crown==

All seven documented watches have tonneau, two-piece cases. Antiquorum's four catalogues measure
their watches at a consistent 29mm; Bonhams measures its steel RAF-engraved watch at 30mm and its
9ct gold watch at 34mm. The cited catalogues do not reconcile that spread, so it stands here as
documented, not settled into one figure.

Bezel description varies by house. Antiquorum's four catalogues all call it a graduated bezel.
Bonhams describes its 9ct gold watch's bezel as rounded, a different term from Antiquorum's, and
gives no bezel description at all for its other two watches. Christie's Italian-language
catalogue calls the 18K gold "Ovetto" watch's bezel "godronata," fluted or reeded. Whether that
spread reflects genuine execution differences across the seven cases or simply different
cataloguing conventions between three houses is not established by the sources at hand.

Crystal material is not given in any of the seven catalogues. All seven watches have a
screw-down crown, and Antiquorum's 1998 pink gold watch is the only one explicitly described as
"flat and small," the same flat-back framing already documented on sibling
[[Reference:1873|1873]]. Whether every 2595 shares that back profile is not established.

==Bracelets, end links, and clasps==

Bracelet and strap evidence is thin and inconsistent across the record. The steel RAF-engraved
watch carries a brushed riveted expandable Oyster-link bracelet with a signed folding clasp. The
9ct gold watch carries an integral bark-finish bracelet, also with a folding clasp. The Antiquorum
steel watch offered twice in 2003 carries a stainless steel link bracelet of roughly 150mm overall.
The Bonhams Oxford steel watch came to auction on a later, unassociated strap. The two 18K gold
watches and the 14K pink gold watch carry no bracelet or strap description at all in the cited
catalogues. No end-link or clasp reference number is documented for the 2595 anywhere in the
published record.

==Auction record==

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Venue
! Date
! Lot
! Case No
! Material / dial
! Movement
! Result
|-
| Antiquorum, Geneva (Hôtel Des Bergues)
| 1998-04-18
| 371
| n/a
| 14K pink gold, two-tone pink dial
| 17j, Superbalance, 7 positions
| CHF 5,980 (est. CHF 4,000-5,000)
|-
| Christie's, Milan
| 1998-05-20
| 248
| 43243
| 18K gold "Ovetto," black dial
| Ultra Prima, 18j, 6 positions
| ITL 9,200,000 (est. ITL 5,000,000-6,000,000)
|-
| Antiquorum, Hong Kong
| 2002-06-08
| 297
| n/a
| 18K yellow gold, yellow radium dial
| 18j, Superbalance, 6 positions
| HKD 20,700 (est. HKD 16,500-20,000)
|-
| Bonhams, London Knightsbridge
| 2003-06-03
| 179
| n/a
| 9ct gold, Arabic gilt dial
| 17j, Ultra Prima, 6 positions
| GBP 528.75 incl. premium (est. GBP 300-400)
|-
| Antiquorum, Geneva
| 2003-06-15
| 467
| n/a
| Stainless steel, black enamel dial, retailed by Beyer Zurich
| 18j, Superbalance, 6 positions
| Est. CHF 1,200-1,600; unsold
|-
| Antiquorum, Geneva
| 2003-10-13
| 635
| n/a
| Same watch as lot 467, re-offered
| 18j, Superbalance, 6 positions
| Est. CHF 800-1,500; unsold
|-
| Bonhams, Oxford
| 2012-05-17
| 268
| 71015
| Stainless steel, cream dial
| Not specified
| GBP 312.50 incl. premium (est. GBP 400-500)
|-
| Bonhams, London Knightsbridge
| 2026-02-25
| 20
| 81442
| Stainless steel, silvered dial, RAF-engraved
| Jewelled manual wind
| GBP 1,920 incl. premium (est. GBP 500-700)
|}

Eight auction appearances document seven distinct watches across three houses, from April 1998
to February 2026. Currencies, estimates and condition vary too widely across that span, Italian
lira in 1998, Hong Kong dollars in 2002, Swiss francs and pounds sterling elsewhere, to read as a
price series. The steel watch sold in February 2026 is engraved on its screw-down back "C.McKENZIE
1250453 R.A.F.," a named owner's service number and branch. The cited listing does not identify
the watch as part of a numbered military contract or issue mark.

== Related references ==

* [[Reference:1873|Oyster Royal 1873]], manual-wind contemporary catalogued under the Oyster Royal name
* [[Reference:2765|Oyster Chronometer 2765]], manual-wind contemporary catalogued under several model names
* [[Reference:2784|Oyster Junior Sport 2784]], manual-wind contemporary with its own catalogue-name spread
* [[Reference:3009|Oyster Chronometre Scientific 3009]], manual-wind contemporary, also documented with centre seconds

See also the [[Reference:bubbleback|Bubbleback family index]], [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|bracelet & clasp guide]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial numbers by year]].

== Sources ==

* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/31977/lot/20/rolex-a-stainless-steel-manual-wind-bracelet-watch-oyster-royal-ref-2595-circa-1939/ "Rolex. A stainless steel manual wind bracelet watch, Oyster Royal, Ref: 2595, Circa 1939", Bonhams, 2026-02-25]
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/10223/lot/179/rolex-a-9ct-gold-centre-seconds-wristwatch-oyster-ref-2595-case-marked-for-1935-34mm/ "Rolex. A 9ct gold centre seconds wristwatch, Oyster, Ref: 2595, case marked for 1935, 34mm", Bonhams, 2003-06-03]
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/19836/lot/268/rolex-a-gentlemans-oyster-imperial-wristwatch/ "Rolex: A gentleman's Oyster Imperial wristwatch", Bonhams, 2012-05-17]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-29-297 "Rolex Oyster Chronomètre, Ref. 2595", Antiquorum, 2002-06-08]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-41-467 "Rolex Oyster 'Impérial Chronomètre', Ref. 2595, retailed by Beyer Zurich", Antiquorum, 2003-06-15]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-45-635 "Rolex Oyster 'Imperial Chronometre', Ref. 2595, retailed by Beyer Zurich", Antiquorum, 2003-10-13]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-90-371 "Rolex Oyster Chronometer, Ref. 2595", Antiquorum, 1998-04-18]
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-861579 "Rolex Oyster Imperial 'Ovetto', Ref. 2595", Christie's, Milan, 1998-05-20]
* [https://www.vintagewatchstraps.com/blogprima.php David Boettcher, "Prima, Extra Prima and Ultra Prima", vintagewatchstraps.com]
* [https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-rolex-bubbleback-and-why-it-still-matters "Buying, Selling, & Collecting: The Rolex Bubbleback And Why It Still Matters", Hodinkee]

[[Category:Oyster]]

Reference:2595

2026-09-29T09:38:03Z

Klaudiusz: Remove table dash placeholders and related-list em dashes

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex 2595 Oyster Imperial}}

{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Oyster Imperial 2595 — Dial Names, Centre Seconds & Auction Record | Rolexopedia
|description=Rolex reference 2595: a manual-wind Oyster tonneau catalogued under five names, with centre seconds and seven documented auction watches from 1998 to 2026.
|image=Ref 2595 hero.webp
|type=article
}}

<small>Oyster → '''2595'''</small>

<div class="rp-lead">
[[File:Ref 2595 hero.webp|thumb|center|640px|alt=Rolex Oyster Royal 2595 in stainless steel, case 81442, engraved to a named RAF serviceman|Rolex Oyster Royal 2595, case 81442, engraved "C.McKENZIE 1250453 R.A.F.", Bonhams London Watches, February 2026]]
</div>

The 2595 is a manual-wind Oyster tonneau documented across seven auctioned watches in steel, 9ct
gold, 14K pink gold and 18K yellow gold, made from the second half of the 1930s into the mid-1940s.
Every catalogued example that specifies its seconds treatment carries a sweeping centre-seconds
hand. Small seconds registers, more common on hand-wound Oysters of the period, do not appear
anywhere in this record.

Auction houses have catalogued the reference under five names: Oyster Royal, an unqualified
Oyster, Oyster Chronometer or Chronomètre, Oyster Imperial, and the combined Oyster Impérial
Chronomètre, once alongside the Italian collector nickname "Ovetto" at a 1998 Christie's sale.
None of the seven documented watches shows a self-winding rotor in its catalogue description, so
despite surfacing on some Bubbleback candidate lists, the 2595 sits with the manual branch Rolex
kept building alongside the Perpetual line.

==Core facts==

{| class="wikitable rp-facts"
|-
! detail
! value
|-
| reference
| 2595
|-
| family
| Oyster (manual-wind)
|-
| production
| no confirmed range; documented examples run from a case Bonhams dates to 1935 through a Christie's-catalogued watch dated 1945, with three Antiquorum watches and one Bonhams watch clustering around circa 1938-1939
|-
| case diameter
| 29mm across four Antiquorum examples; 30mm and 34mm on two Bonhams examples
|-
| case shape
| tonneau, two-piece construction
|-
| caseback
| screw-down; one Antiquorum example explicitly described as flat and small
|-
| bezel
| graduated per Antiquorum's four watches; rounded per Bonhams's 9ct gold watch; fluted ("lunetta godronata") per Christie's on the 18K "Ovetto" watch
|-
| crystal
| material not established by the cited catalogues
|-
| crown
| screw-down
|-
| winding
| manual
|-
| seconds
| centre seconds on every watch whose catalogue specifies seconds treatment
|-
| movement
| 10-ligne manual, straight-line lever escapement, self-compensating Breguet balance-spring, 17 or 18 jewels; catalogued as "Superbalance" balance (Antiquorum) or an outright Ultra Prima grade (Bonhams, Christie's); no caliber number published
|-
| case materials
| stainless steel; 9ct gold; 14K pink gold; 18K yellow gold
|-
| dial designations
| Oyster Royal; Oyster (unqualified); Oyster Chronometer/Chronomètre; Oyster Imperial; Oyster Impérial Chronomètre ("Ovetto")
|-
| documented case numbers
| 81442; 71015; 43243
|}

==Where it sits in the line==

Rolex kept building hand-wound Oysters after the Perpetual rotor arrived in 1931. Hodinkee's
Bubbleback collecting guide calls these parallel manual-wind watches "flatbacks." All seven
documented 2595 watches carry manual movements, and none of the seven catalogues describes a
rotor, so despite the era overlap with the Bubbleback boom it belongs with the manual branch.

The five catalogue names split unevenly across the seven watches. Imperial branding, alone or
combined with Chronomètre, covers three watches: a Bonhams Oxford example, an Antiquorum steel
watch offered twice in Geneva in 2003, and the Christie's Milan gold watch. Chronometer or
Chronomètre without further qualification covers two more, in 18K yellow gold and 14K pink gold.
One steel watch is catalogued as Oyster Royal, and one 9ct gold watch as an unqualified Oyster.
Christie's also paired its Imperial watch with the Italian collector nickname "Ovetto" in the
lot title, layered on top of the Imperial branding, not a sixth catalogue name in its own right.

==Production outline==

The earliest and latest documented dates sit nine years apart. Bonhams titled its 9ct gold watch
by a case marking to 1935, though the cited listing does not detail which hallmark supports that
date. Christie's catalogued its 18K gold "Ovetto" watch to 1945. Between those two, Antiquorum
dated three watches and Bonhams one to "circa 1938" or "circa 1939." No source states a start or
end year for the reference as a whole, and the case numbers on record, 81442, 71015 and 43243, do
not span a wide enough or well-anchored enough range to define one.

Antiquorum's two Geneva appearances for a steel, Beyer-retailed watch, in June and October 2003,
share an identical case, dial and movement description and identical condition grading on both
lot pages. That reads as one watch failing to sell in June at an estimate of CHF 1,200-1,600 and
returning four months later at a reduced CHF 800-1,500, again without finding a buyer, not two
different watches.

Counting that repeat appearance once, the documented population runs to three steel watches, one
9ct gold, one 14K pink gold and two 18K yellow gold, one of them the "Ovetto." No two-tone
example has surfaced, and no source publishes a production total.

==Movement notes==

Antiquorum's four catalogue entries give the fullest technical picture: a 10-ligne movement,
rhodium-plated, with a straight-line lever escapement and a self-compensating Breguet
balance-spring, on watches dated 1998, 2002 and twice in 2003 (the same steel watch). Antiquorum
names the balance itself "Superbalance" on all four and reports 17 jewels with seven adjustment
positions on the 1998 pink gold watch, and 18 jewels with six positions on the 2002 yellow gold
watch and the 2003 steel watch.

Bonhams and Christie's instead grade two other watches' movements as an outright Ultra Prima,
without using the Superbalance term. Bonhams calls its 9ct gold watch's movement a 17-jewel Ultra
Prima timed to six positions; Christie's calls its 18K gold "Ovetto" watch's movement an Ultra
Prima with 18 jewels and a monometallic balance regulated in six positions. David Boettcher's
blog post "Prima, Extra Prima and Ultra Prima," published on vintagewatchstraps.com, traces the
grade hierarchy: Rolex used "Prima" from 1923, and Hans Wilsdorf registered "Ultra Prima" in his
own name on 9 December 1930. Boettcher's account covers the grade name; it says nothing about
Superbalance, which appears here only as Antiquorum's term for the balance component itself.
Bonhams gives no jewel count or grade for the steel RAF-engraved watch beyond "jewelled manual
wind," and the Oxford steel watch's catalogue gives no movement detail at all.

None of the seven catalogues stamps or names a caliber number. The specification that does
survive across all of them, a roughly 10-ligne manual movement with a straight-line lever,
Superbalance balance and self-compensating Breguet spring, matches the Cal. 10½ Hunter (700/710)
family on [[Reference:Movements|Movements]], already treated there as a plausible, not confirmed,
home for the manual movements on siblings [[Reference:2765|2765]] and [[Reference:3009|3009]]. No
stamped example has surfaced for the 2595 either, so the assignment stays open here too.

==Dial map==

Seven watches carry seven different dial treatments.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Catalogue name
! Case material
! Dial
! Source
|-
| Oyster Royal
| Stainless steel
| Silvered, luminous Arabic numeral hour markers, black outer minute track with Arabic 5-minute markers, blued steel pointed baton hands
| Bonhams, 2026
|-
| Oyster (unqualified)
| 9ct gold
| Arabic gilt dial with outside minute track, blued hands
| Bonhams, 2003
|-
| Oyster Imperial
| Stainless steel
| Cream-coloured, gilt Arabic numerals, outer minute scale 0-60
| Bonhams, 2012
|-
| Oyster Chronomètre
| 18K yellow gold
| Yellow, radium-coated Arabic and Roman numerals and bâton indexes, "Skeleton" radium-coated hands
| Antiquorum, 2002
|-
| Oyster Impérial Chronomètre
| Stainless steel
| Black enamel, inlaid yellow gold bâton indexes, "Feuille" yellow gold hands
| Antiquorum, 2003
|-
| Oyster Chronometer
| 14K pink gold
| Two-tone pink, radiumed Arabic numerals and indexes, "Skeleton" radiumed hands
| Antiquorum, 1998
|-
| Oyster Imperial "Ovetto"
| 18K yellow gold
| Black, raised indices and numbers
| Christie's, 1998
|}

Christie's is the only house to attach a nickname to a 2595 dial, and it appears only in the lot
title. The catalogue's own dial description reads no further than "black dial with raised indices
and numbers." "Ovetto" is Italian for a small egg, presumably describing the tonneau case. The
cited listing gives no indication that Rolex itself ever used the term, on this dial or otherwise.

Radium and radium-coated markings appear on both gold examples from the earliest years of the
record, 1998 and 2002; the two steel watches and the two remaining gold watches do not mention
radium in their catalogue text. Centre seconds is the one constant every catalogue that addresses
seconds treatment agrees on.

==Case, bezel, crystal, and crown==

All seven documented watches have tonneau, two-piece cases. Antiquorum's four catalogues measure
their watches at a consistent 29mm; Bonhams measures its steel RAF-engraved watch at 30mm and its
9ct gold watch at 34mm. The cited catalogues do not reconcile that spread, so it stands here as
documented, not settled into one figure.

Bezel description varies by house. Antiquorum's four catalogues all call it a graduated bezel.
Bonhams describes its 9ct gold watch's bezel as rounded, a different term from Antiquorum's, and
gives no bezel description at all for its other two watches. Christie's Italian-language
catalogue calls the 18K gold "Ovetto" watch's bezel "godronata," fluted or reeded. Whether that
spread reflects genuine execution differences across the seven cases or simply different
cataloguing conventions between three houses is not established by the sources at hand.

Crystal material is not given in any of the seven catalogues. All seven watches have a
screw-down crown, and Antiquorum's 1998 pink gold watch is the only one explicitly described as
"flat and small," the same flat-back framing already documented on sibling
[[Reference:1873|1873]]. Whether every 2595 shares that back profile is not established.

==Bracelets, end links, and clasps==

Bracelet and strap evidence is thin and inconsistent across the record. The steel RAF-engraved
watch carries a brushed riveted expandable Oyster-link bracelet with a signed folding clasp. The
9ct gold watch carries an integral bark-finish bracelet, also with a folding clasp. The Antiquorum
steel watch offered twice in 2003 carries a stainless steel link bracelet of roughly 150mm overall.
The Bonhams Oxford steel watch came to auction on a later, unassociated strap. The two 18K gold
watches and the 14K pink gold watch carry no bracelet or strap description at all in the cited
catalogues. No end-link or clasp reference number is documented for the 2595 anywhere in the
published record.

==Auction record==

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Venue
! Date
! Lot
! Case No
! Material / dial
! Movement
! Result
|-
| Antiquorum, Geneva (Hôtel Des Bergues)
| 1998-04-18
| 371
| n/a
| 14K pink gold, two-tone pink dial
| 17j, Superbalance, 7 positions
| CHF 5,980 (est. CHF 4,000-5,000)
|-
| Christie's, Milan
| 1998-05-20
| 248
| 43243
| 18K gold "Ovetto," black dial
| Ultra Prima, 18j, 6 positions
| ITL 9,200,000 (est. ITL 5,000,000-6,000,000)
|-
| Antiquorum, Hong Kong
| 2002-06-08
| 297
| n/a
| 18K yellow gold, yellow radium dial
| 18j, Superbalance, 6 positions
| HKD 20,700 (est. HKD 16,500-20,000)
|-
| Bonhams, London Knightsbridge
| 2003-06-03
| 179
| n/a
| 9ct gold, Arabic gilt dial
| 17j, Ultra Prima, 6 positions
| GBP 528.75 incl. premium (est. GBP 300-400)
|-
| Antiquorum, Geneva
| 2003-06-15
| 467
| n/a
| Stainless steel, black enamel dial, retailed by Beyer Zurich
| 18j, Superbalance, 6 positions
| Est. CHF 1,200-1,600; unsold
|-
| Antiquorum, Geneva
| 2003-10-13
| 635
| n/a
| Same watch as lot 467, re-offered
| 18j, Superbalance, 6 positions
| Est. CHF 800-1,500; unsold
|-
| Bonhams, Oxford
| 2012-05-17
| 268
| 71015
| Stainless steel, cream dial
| Not specified
| GBP 312.50 incl. premium (est. GBP 400-500)
|-
| Bonhams, London Knightsbridge
| 2026-02-25
| 20
| 81442
| Stainless steel, silvered dial, RAF-engraved
| Jewelled manual wind
| GBP 1,920 incl. premium (est. GBP 500-700)
|}

Eight auction appearances document seven distinct watches across three houses, from April 1998
to February 2026. Currencies, estimates and condition vary too widely across that span, Italian
lira in 1998, Hong Kong dollars in 2002, Swiss francs and pounds sterling elsewhere, to read as a
price series. The steel watch sold in February 2026 is engraved on its screw-down back "C.McKENZIE
1250453 R.A.F.," a named owner's service number and branch. The cited listing does not identify
the watch as part of a numbered military contract or issue mark.

== Related references ==

* [[Reference:1873|Oyster Royal 1873]] — manual-wind contemporary catalogued under the Oyster Royal name
* [[Reference:2765|Oyster Chronometer 2765]] — manual-wind contemporary catalogued under several model names
* [[Reference:2784|Oyster Junior Sport 2784]] — manual-wind contemporary with its own catalogue-name spread
* [[Reference:3009|Oyster Chronometre Scientific 3009]] — manual-wind contemporary, also documented with centre seconds

See also the [[Reference:bubbleback|Bubbleback family index]], [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|bracelet & clasp guide]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial numbers by year]].

== Sources ==

* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/31977/lot/20/rolex-a-stainless-steel-manual-wind-bracelet-watch-oyster-royal-ref-2595-circa-1939/ "Rolex. A stainless steel manual wind bracelet watch, Oyster Royal, Ref: 2595, Circa 1939", Bonhams, 2026-02-25]
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/10223/lot/179/rolex-a-9ct-gold-centre-seconds-wristwatch-oyster-ref-2595-case-marked-for-1935-34mm/ "Rolex. A 9ct gold centre seconds wristwatch, Oyster, Ref: 2595, case marked for 1935, 34mm", Bonhams, 2003-06-03]
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/19836/lot/268/rolex-a-gentlemans-oyster-imperial-wristwatch/ "Rolex: A gentleman's Oyster Imperial wristwatch", Bonhams, 2012-05-17]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-29-297 "Rolex Oyster Chronomètre, Ref. 2595", Antiquorum, 2002-06-08]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-41-467 "Rolex Oyster 'Impérial Chronomètre', Ref. 2595, retailed by Beyer Zurich", Antiquorum, 2003-06-15]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-45-635 "Rolex Oyster 'Imperial Chronometre', Ref. 2595, retailed by Beyer Zurich", Antiquorum, 2003-10-13]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-90-371 "Rolex Oyster Chronometer, Ref. 2595", Antiquorum, 1998-04-18]
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-861579 "Rolex Oyster Imperial 'Ovetto', Ref. 2595", Christie's, Milan, 1998-05-20]
* [https://www.vintagewatchstraps.com/blogprima.php David Boettcher, "Prima, Extra Prima and Ultra Prima", vintagewatchstraps.com]
* [https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-rolex-bubbleback-and-why-it-still-matters "Buying, Selling, & Collecting: The Rolex Bubbleback And Why It Still Matters", Hodinkee]

[[Category:Oyster]]

Reference:2356

2026-09-29T08:57:44Z

Klaudiusz: Bound 2356 dial and naming claims to reviewed auction records

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex 2356 Prince}}
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Prince 2356 — 9ct Gold Auction Record | Rolexopedia
|description=Rolex reference 2356: a 1930s rectangular Prince in 9ct gold, documented across two Bonhams auction lots with fixed wire lugs and no case-shape nickname.
|type=article
}}

<small>[[Reference:prince|Prince]] → '''2356'''</small>

The 2356 is a rectangular Rolex Prince documented in 9ct gold across two Bonhams lots, catalogued four and a half years apart. Both use Bonhams' structured "Reference: 2356" field, distinct from either watch's case number. Like sibling reference 2736 from the same era, the 2356 carries no Railway, Dauphin, Brancard, or Imperial-style nickname in the auction record — a plain Prince rather than one of the line's named Art Deco shapes.

==Core facts==

{| class="wikitable rp-facts"
|-
! detail
! value
|-
| reference
| 2356
|-
| family
| Prince (manual-wind, rectangular)
|-
| documented examples
| circa 1936 and circa 1938
|-
| case shape
| rectangular
|-
| case size
| 20mm x 30mm (both documented examples)
|-
| lugs
| fixed wire
|-
| crown
| plain pull-out, not screw-down
|-
| movement
| 15-jewel manual wind; caliber not published in either catalogue
|-
| case material
| 9ct gold (both documented examples; no other material documented)
|}

==Where it sits in the line==

Like ref. 2736, the 2356 is a plain, un-nicknamed rectangular Prince in the two Bonhams records reviewed here; no case-shape name attaches to those lots. The two references differ in construction: 2736's documented cases carry an integrated stepped, faceted profile, where both documented 2356 cases use fixed wire lugs, a simpler and more common rectangular-watch attachment of the period. Both documented 2356 examples are 9ct gold; unlike 2736, no steel example has surfaced for this reference.

==Production outline==

Bonhams dates one example "circa 1938" (case 474**, the last two digits masked in the catalogue) and the other "circa 1936" (case 15182). The 1936 date has some independent support: Bonhams' own catalogue transcribes a caseback engraving on that watch reading "N.L.D. 11-6-36," a period-consistent detail rather than a manufacture date proven by the reference itself. Two data points two years apart do not establish a production window.

==Movement notes==

Both documented examples carry a 15-jewel manual-wind movement. Neither Bonhams catalogue names a caliber number, and no other source consulted supplies one. Both watches wind through a plain pull-out crown and run a small seconds register at 6.

==Dial map==

The two documented examples carry different dial layouts, though neither is confirmed by photography at a resolution this project can publish (see Case, bezel, crystal, and crown below). Case 474** (1938) has a silvered dial with applied gilt Arabic numerals, a black outer minute track with five-minute markers, and blued steel dagger hands. Case 15182 (1936) has a silvered dial with black baton hour markers and Arabic quarters at the quarter-hours, the same style of outer minute track, and blued steel spade hands.

The two Bonhams examples are recorded here as documented dial variants. Catalogue text is the only description available for either dial, so this is not a complete factory or surviving-watch survey.

==Case, bezel, crystal, and crown==

Both documented cases are rectangular, 20mm x 30mm, with a polished finish, a snap-on back, and fixed wire lugs. Neither catalogue records crystal material. The crown on both is a plain pull-out type, consistent with the rest of the Prince line's non-waterproof construction.

Bonhams' own auction photography exists for both lots but at 650x650px and 616-724px native resolution — below this project's 1200px minimum source width for a publishable image. No image accompanies this article as a result; a higher-resolution source would need to surface before one could be added.

==Bracelets, end links, and clasps==

Case 474** is fitted with a brown leather strap and plated buckle, not claimed as original by the catalogue. Case 15182 was catalogued as a "watch head" — no strap, buckle, or bracelet at all.

==Auction record==

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Venue
! Date
! Lot
! Case no.
! Dial
! Estimate
! Result
|-
| Bonhams, "Watches and Wristwatches," London Knightsbridge
| 2014-09-16
| 78
| 474**
| Silvered, gilt Arabic numerals, dagger hands
| GBP 600–800
| GBP 687.50 inc. premium
|-
| Bonhams, "Watches and Wristwatches," London Knightsbridge
| 2015-02-24
| 79
| 15182
| Silvered, baton and Arabic markers, spade hands
| GBP 500–700
| Not published; read as unsold
|}

One result is on record. The second lot's live listing shows an estimate with no "Sold for" line, consistent with an unsold or bought-in outcome rather than a withheld result.

== Related references ==

* [[Reference:2736|Prince 2736]] — plain Prince from the same discovery pass, in steel and gold with a stepped case
* [[Reference:1527|Prince 1527 "Railway"]] — stepped bi-color Prince with a documented case-shape nickname
* [[Reference:1490|Prince 1490]]
* [[Reference:1491|Prince 1491 Jump Hour]]
* [[Reference:1862|Prince 1862]]

See also the [[Reference:prince|Prince family index]], [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial numbers by year]].

== Sources ==

* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/21664/lot/78/rolex-a-9ct-gold-manual-wind-wristwatch-prince-ref2356-case-no474-circa-1938/ "Rolex. A 9ct gold manual wind wristwatch, Prince, Ref:2356, Case No.474**, Circa 1938", Bonhams, 2014-09-16]
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/22784/lot/79/rolex-a-9ct-gold-manual-wind-watch-head-prince-ref2356-case-no15182-circa-1936/ "Rolex. A 9ct gold manual wind watch head, Prince, Ref:2356, Case No.15182, Circa 1936", Bonhams, 2015-02-24]

[[Category:Prince]]

Reference:18049

2026-09-29T08:54:39Z

Klaudiusz: Place 18049 footer gallery before Sources

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex Day-Date 18049}}
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Day-Date 18049 — White-Gold Diamond-Bezel Day-Date | Rolexopedia
|description=White-gold Day-Date 18049 with a diamond-set bezel, caliber 3055 and auction-documented dial variations.
|keywords=Rolex 18049, Day-Date 18049, white gold, diamond bezel, caliber 3055, Stella dial, Khanjar
|image=Ref 18049 khanjar.webp
|image_alt=White-gold Day-Date 18049 with diamond-set bezel and Khanjar dial, photographed beside a diamond ring
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|published_time=2026-09-26T00:00:00Z
|modified_time=2026-09-26T00:00:00Z
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
|titlemode=replace
}}
<small>[[Reference:day-date|Day-Date]] → '''18049'''</small>

<div class="rp-lead">[[File:Ref 18049 khanjar.webp|thumb|center|640px|alt=White-gold Day-Date 18049 with diamond-set bezel and Khanjar dial, photographed beside a diamond ring|Circa-1981 18049 with the Khanjar emblem on its silvered dial. The Christie’s lot also included the ring shown beside it.]]</div>

The 18049 is the white-gold Day-Date with a diamond-set bezel in the five-digit, caliber-3055 generation. Its yellow-gold counterpart is the 18048. Auction catalogues date individual examples from circa 1978 through circa 1988. Those lot dates do not establish the reference’s production boundaries or a complete factory dial list.

==Core facts==
{| class="wikitable rp-facts"
|-
! detail
! value
|-
| reference
| 18049
|-
| family
| Day-Date
|-
| production
| Five-digit caliber-3055 generation, generally dated 1977–1988; exact 18049 start and end dates are not established
|-
| movement
| caliber 3055, 27 jewels, 28,800 vph; date quickset, day advances with the hands
|-
| case
| 18k white gold; auction records usually give 36 mm
|-
| bezel
| diamond-set; Antiquorum counts 44 stones on one example
|-
| crystal
| sapphire with Cyclops
|-
| bracelet
| white-gold President; Antiquorum identifies bracelet 8385 on one example
|-
| crown
| screw-down
|-
| related references
| 18048 (yellow-gold diamond bezel), 18039 (white-gold fluted bezel), 18079 (white-gold bark finish), and 1804 (earlier gem-set Day-Date)
|-
| successor
| 18348 in yellow gold and 18349 in white gold, from the caliber-3155 generation
|}

==Where it sits in the line==
The 18049 belongs to the Day-Date generation that replaced the four-digit models in the late 1970s. Reference 1804 is the earlier gem-set model. The five-digit siblings split by metal and finish: 18048 has a yellow-gold diamond bezel, 18039 a white-gold fluted bezel, and 18079 a white-gold bark finish. The caliber-3155 generation followed in 1988; its diamond-bezel references include 18348 in yellow gold and 18349 in white gold.

==Production outline==
Auction catalogues date individual 18049 examples from circa 1978 through circa 1988, within the broader five-digit group usually dated 1977–1988. These lot dates do not establish the 18049’s exact first or last production year.

==Movement notes==
The 18049 uses caliber 3055, with 27 jewels and a frequency of 28,800 vph. Its quickset corrects the date; the day advances when the hands pass midnight. The movement also has hacking seconds. A 2002 Antiquorum catalogue describes a 3055 with 30 jewels, unlike the 27-jewel specification in the Movement reference and later lot records. That older listing is an outlier, not a basis for changing the caliber specification.

==Dial map==
Auction records show several dial treatments. The table identifies individual watches, not a complete Rolex offering.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! catalogue date
! dial and markers
! record
|-
| late 1970s
| Grey dial with eight round and two baguette diamond indexes
| Antiquorum, 2002, lot 398
|-
| circa 1978
| Burgundy dial with round and baguette diamond markers
| Christie’s, lot 4404032
|-
| circa 1978
| Salmon dial with diamond-set indexes
| Sotheby’s, 2023, lot 88
|-
| circa 1980
| Silvered dial with baguette sapphire numerals on a diamond-set chapter ring
| Christie’s, lot 4814219
|-
| circa 1981
| Silvered diamond-index dial with the Khanjar emblem
| Christie’s, Dubai, lot 89
|-
| circa 1983
| Blue dégradé lacquer dial
| Sotheby’s, 2023, lot 723
|-
| circa 1984
| Salmon/caramel dial with diamond indexes
| Antiquorum, 2023, lot 98
|-
| circa 1988
| Baby-green lacquer dial with eight round diamond indexes and baguettes at six and nine
| Christie’s, lot 6558374
|-
| 1979
| Red Stella lacquer dial with brilliant- and baguette-cut diamond indexes; Khanjar engraved on the caseback
| Monaco Legend, 2022, lot 270
|}

These catalogues document examples with sapphire numerals, lacquer, and the Khanjar on either the dial or caseback. They do not provide a full factory dial list or production totals.

[[File:Ref 18049 detail.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=Angled view of a salmon-caramel dial and diamond-set bezel on a Day-Date 18049|Salmon/caramel dial and diamond-set bezel on Antiquorum’s circa-1984 example.]]

==Case, bezel, crystal, and crown==
The case is 18k white gold with a screw-down back and crown. The crystal is sapphire with a Cyclops date magnifier. Most cited auction descriptions give a 36 mm diameter; Christie’s measured one circa-1978 example at 35 mm. Keep that figure attached to its lot rather than treating it as a settled reference specification.

The diamond bezel defines the reference. Antiquorum described 44 diamonds on its late-1970s example; other catalogues describe the bezel as diamond-set without giving a count. A stone count from one watch does not establish every bezel’s setting.

==Bracelet and clasp==
Auctioned examples use white-gold President bracelets. Antiquorum identifies an 8385 bracelet on its circa-1984 example; other catalogues describe a concealed or folding clasp. Loupe This also photographed an 18049 head on a bark-finish President bracelet and called the bracelet factory-finished. That listing documents the pairing, but it does not establish original delivery of that bracelet with the watch head. A clasp code dates the bracelet, not the case.

==Khanjar examples==
Two auction records show different placements of the Omani Khanjar emblem. Christie’s describes it on the dial of its circa-1981 18049. Monaco Legend’s 1979 red-Stella example is catalogued with the emblem engraved on the caseback. Neither catalogue establishes a direct commission from Sultan Qaboos or the watch’s original recipient.

Christie’s listed a service card dated 28 November 2022 from Khimji Ramdas in Muscat, an Asprey presentation box, and a diamond ring with its Khanjar-dial watch. Those items document what accompanied the lot at auction. The catalogue does not say that the card or box proves the watch’s original delivery or commission.

==Auction record==
These four sales cover different dials, dates, and accessories. Their prices are in different currencies and do not define a market range.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! sale date
! house and lot
! configuration
! result
|-
| Sep 2002
| Antiquorum New York, lot 398
| Late-1970s grey dial with diamond indexes; 44-stone bezel
| USD 11,500
|-
| Apr 2022
| Monaco Legend, lot 270
| 1979 red Stella dial with diamond indexes; Khanjar engraved on caseback
| EUR 262,500, including premium
|-
| 2023
| Christie’s Dubai, lot 89
| Circa-1981 silvered diamond-index dial with Khanjar emblem
| USD 52,920
|-
| Jun 2023
| Antiquorum Hong Kong, lot 98
| Circa-1984 salmon/caramel dial with diamond indexes
| HKD 143,750
|}

==Related references==
* [[Reference:18048|Day-Date 18048]], yellow-gold diamond bezel
* [[Reference:18039|Day-Date 18039]], white-gold fluted bezel
* [[Reference:18079|Day-Date 18079]], white-gold bark finish
* [[Reference:1804|Day-Date 1804]], earlier gem-set Day-Date
* [[Reference:18038|Day-Date 18038]], yellow-gold fluted model with caliber 3055
* [[Reference:18348|Day-Date 18348]], caliber-3155 generation, yellow-gold diamond bezel

See also the [[Reference:day-date|Day-Date family index]], [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|bracelet and clasp guide]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial-number guide]].

<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
File:Ref 18049 khanjar.webp|Circa-1981 white-gold 18049 with Khanjar dial; Christie’s also catalogued the diamond ring shown in the photograph
File:Ref 18049 hero.webp|Circa-1984 white-gold 18049 with salmon/caramel dial and diamond-set bezel
File:Ref 18049 detail.webp|Angled view of Antiquorum’s circa-1984 salmon/caramel dial and bezel
</gallery>

== Sources ==
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-18049-day-date-lot-361-98 Antiquorum, "Rolex Ref. 18049 Day-Date, 18k white gold with diamond bezel and salmon diamond dial — Antiquorum Hong Kong, lot 98", Antiquorum, 2023-06-13]
* [https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/watches-online-dubai-edit/rolex-day-date-ref-18049-gold-diamond-set-automatic-wristwatch-khanjar-89/181697 Christie's, "Rolex Day-Date Ref. 18049, white gold and diamond-set with Omani Khanjar dial — Christie's Watches Online: The Dubai Edit, lot 89", Christie's, 2023]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-30-398 Antiquorum, "Rolex Day-Date 18049, late-1970s grey diamond dial — Antiquorum New York lot 398", Antiquorum, 2002-09-25]
* [https://www.christies.com/lot/lot-4404032 Christie’s, "Rolex ref. 18049 with burgundy diamond dial — Christie’s lot 4404032", Christie’s, 2004-12-15]
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-4814219 Christie’s, "Rolex ref. 18049 with sapphire numerals — Christie’s lot 4814219", Christie’s]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2023/important-watches/reference-18049-day-date-a-white-gold-and-diamond Sotheby’s, "Rolex ref. 18049 with salmon diamond-index dial — Sotheby’s Important Watches 2023, lot 88", Sotheby’s, 2023]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/buy/ad86e74c-7057-4843-848c-3fbcabe7ff96/lots/30281a3f-52a9-45aa-9d06-c9a6baf6ddee Sotheby’s, "Rolex ref. 18049 blue dégradé dial — Sotheby’s Fine Watches 2023, lot 723", Sotheby’s, 2023]
* [https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-28/lot-270 Monaco Legend Auctions, "Rolex ref. 18049 red Stella and Khanjar caseback — Monaco Legend, lot 270", Monaco Legend Auctions, 2022-04-23]
* [https://loupethis.com/auctions/rolex-day-date-18049-diamond-dial-and-bezel-bark-bracelet-18k-wg Loupe This, "Rolex Day-Date 18049, white gold with diamond dial and bezel on a bark-finish bracelet — Loupe This, lot 2928", Loupe This]
* ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' — Colin A. White, Morning Tundra
* [https://www.bobswatches.com/rolex-blog/resources/quickset-vintage-day-date-models.html Bob's Watches editorial, "Quickset Vintage Day-Date Models", Bob's Watches]
* [https://www.christies.com/lot/lot-6558374 Christie’s, "Rolex Day-Date 18049 baby-green Stella dial — Christie’s lot 6558374", Christie’s]

[[Category:Day-Date]]

Reference:18039

2026-09-29T08:52:27Z

Klaudiusz: Place 18039 footer gallery before Sources

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex Day-Date 18039}}
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Day-Date 18039 — White-Gold Day-Date, Caliber 3055 | Rolexopedia
|description=The 36 mm white-gold Rolex Day-Date 18039 uses caliber 3055. Auction records document its dial variants and the differently dated Tridor 18039B.
|keywords=Rolex 18039, Day-Date 18039, white gold, caliber 3055, Tridor, 18039B
|image=Ref 18039 hero.webp
|image_alt=Rolex Day-Date 18039 in 18k white gold with fluted bezel and diamond-index dial
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|published_time=2026-09-25T00:00:00Z
|modified_time=2026-09-25T00:00:00Z
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
|titlemode=replace
}}
<small>[[Reference:day-date|Day-Date]] → '''18039'''</small>

<div class="rp-lead">[[File:Ref 18039 hero.webp|thumb|center|640px|alt=Rolex Day-Date 18039 in 18k white gold with fluted bezel and diamond-index dial|Day-Date 18039 in 18k white gold, with a fluted bezel and diamond-index dial.]]</div>

The 18039 is a 36 mm white-gold Day-Date with a fluted bezel and caliber 3055. It appeared alongside the yellow-gold 18038. Antiquorum dates its introduction to 1977; caliber 3155 replaced the 3055 in 1988. The related 18039B pairs a white-gold case with a yellow-gold bezel and a three-colour Tridor bracelet.

==Core facts==
{| class="wikitable rp-facts"
|-
! detail
! value
|-
| reference
| 18039
|-
| family
| Day-Date
|-
| production
| generally dated 1977–1988; examples are catalogued from circa 1977 through 1986
|-
| movement
| caliber 3055, 27 jewels, 28,800 vph; quickset date, day advances with the hands
|-
| case
| 36 mm, 18k white gold
|-
| bezel
| Fluted white gold
|-
| crystal
| Sapphire with Cyclops date magnifier
|-
| bracelet
| White-gold President with concealed deployant clasp on documented examples
|-
| related variant
| 18039B, catalogued with white-gold case, yellow-gold bezel, and Tridor bracelet
|}

==Where it sits in the line==
The 18039 is the white-gold counterpart to yellow-gold reference [[Reference:18038|18038]]. Other five-digit Day-Dates used smooth or diamond-set bezels, or a bark finish: [[Reference:18028|18028]], [[Reference:18048|18048]], and [[Reference:18078|18078]] in yellow gold, and [[Reference:18049|18049]] and [[Reference:18079|18079]] in white gold. Reference [[Reference:1803|1803]] came before it; [[Reference:18238|18238]] followed with caliber 3155. The 18039B is the Tridor variant.

==Production outline==
Antiquorum’s 2015 catalogue dates the 18039’s introduction to 1977 and describes it as the 1803’s successor. Auction records date individual examples from circa 1977, circa 1978, 1981, and 1983, with Tridor examples identified as 1985 and 1986. They do not establish exact production boundaries.

Antiquorum’s dates for the 18039B conflict. A 2013 note gives 1985–1988; later listings date two examples circa 1984. The 2022 catalogue then says its circa-1984 watch was manufactured in 1987. The records do not establish a reliable production window.

==Movement notes==
Caliber 3055 has 27 jewels and runs at 28,800 beats per hour. Its quickset changes the date; the day advances with the hands. Caliber 3155 added independent day correction in 1988. See the [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]] for the caliber details.

==Dial map==
Auction records show 18039 examples with charcoal-grey baton, copper-coloured, green dégradé with diamond indexes, wood with a German day disc, and red Stella lacquer with diamond indexes. Antiquorum labels one red Stella example “Oman-market”; the catalogue does not establish its original destination.

<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
File:Ref 18039 stella.webp|Red Stella lacquer dial with diamond indexes, catalogued on a 1983 example
File:Ref 18039 wood dial.webp|Wood dial and German day disc on a circa-1978 example
</gallery>

Catalogued 18039B examples add champagne Roman, midnight-blue diamond-index, Silver Jubilee diamond-index, black onyx, and gem-set dials.

==Case, bezel, crystal, and crown==
Auction descriptions give a 36 mm 18k white-gold Oyster case, fluted bezel, sapphire crystal with Cyclops, and screw-down caseback and crown. Published thickness and weight figures refer to individual watches.

The Tridor 18039B is described with a white-gold case and yellow-gold bezel. One 2015 catalogue records a sapphire crystal with Cyclops and gives that watch’s thickness as 13 mm; the 2013 Tridor lot gives 12.5 mm. Those measurements belong to their respective lots.

==Bracelet and clasp==
Auction catalogues show 18039 examples on white-gold President bracelets with concealed deployant clasps. Tridor examples have President bracelets with white-, yellow-, and pink-gold centre links. One 2013 18039B lot is fitted with a gold-plated buckle; its catalogue does not explain the watch’s earlier bracelet history.

A clasp or bracelet date applies to that component, not automatically to the watch head. The [[Reference:Bracelets|bracelet guide]] covers bracelet construction and dating.

==Special branch: Tridor 18039B==
Antiquorum uses 18039B for the variant and calls 18000 its “base reference” in a 2013 lot. The catalogue describes a white-gold case, yellow-gold bezel, and President bracelet with white-, yellow-, and pink-gold centre links.

The onyx-dial lot records a Gobbi Milan sale in December 1986 and includes a box and guarantee. Another catalogue describes sapphire, ruby, and emerald indexes.

[[File:Ref 18039 tridor.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=Day-Date Tridor 18039B with black onyx dial, white-gold case, yellow-gold bezel and three-colour bracelet|18039B with a black onyx dial and three-colour Tridor President bracelet.]]

==Auction record==
These auction results identify individual watches and reported prices. The 2013 18039B lot was catalogued on a gold-plated buckle; the other Tridor examples listed here have Tridor President bracelets.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! sale date
! house and lot
! configuration
! result
|-
| Dec 2025
| Antiquorum Monaco, lot 147
| Red Stella diamond-index dial, 1983, case 7,522,088
| EUR 55,104
|-
| Dec 2021
| Antiquorum Hong Kong, lot 271
| Green dégradé diamond-index dial, circa 1978, case 5,257,859
| HKD 300,000
|-
| Jun 2015
| Antiquorum Hong Kong, lot 663
| 18039B, midnight-blue dial with 10 diamond indexes, 1986
| HKD 175,000
|-
| Oct 2024
| Antiquorum Hong Kong, lot 197
| Diamond-index dial, circa 1981, case 6,724,084
| HKD 118,750
|-
| Nov 2018
| Antiquorum Geneva, lot 197
| Red Stella diamond-index dial, circa 1977, case 5,425,270; catalogued as Oman-market
| CHF 35,000
|-
| Jun 2021
| Antiquorum Forte dei Marmi, lot 158
| Wood dial, German day disc, circa 1978, case 5,507,421
| EUR 31,250
|-
| May 2015
| Antiquorum Geneva, lot 482
| 18039B, black onyx dial, sold by Gobbi in 1986
| CHF 25,000
|-
| Mar 2015
| Antiquorum Geneva, lot 292
| Charcoal-grey baton dial, 1981, case 6,739,240
| CHF 20,000
|-
| Dec 2015
| Antiquorum New York, lot 101
| 18039B, Silver Jubilee diamond-index dial, 1986
| USD 13,750
|-
| Nov 2020
| Antiquorum Geneva, lot 131
| 18039B, circa-1984 catalogue date, case 8,799,117
| CHF 12,500
|-
| Nov 2019
| Antiquorum Geneva, lot 171
| Copper-coloured dial, circa 1977, case 5,302,014
| CHF 10,625
|-
| May 2013
| Antiquorum Geneva, lot 253
| 18039B, champagne Roman dial, gold-plated buckle
| CHF 5,500
|}

==Related references==
* [[Reference:18038|Day-Date 18038]], yellow gold, fluted bezel
* [[Reference:18028|Day-Date 18028]], yellow gold, smooth bezel
* [[Reference:18048|Day-Date 18048]], yellow gold, diamond-set bezel
* [[Reference:18049|Day-Date 18049]], white gold, diamond-set bezel
* [[Reference:18078|Day-Date 18078]], yellow gold, bark finish
* [[Reference:18079|Day-Date 18079]], white gold, bark finish
* [[Reference:1803|Day-Date 1803]], preceding four-digit generation
* [[Reference:18238|Day-Date 18238]], caliber-3155 generation

See also the [[Reference:day-date|Day-Date family index]], [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|bracelet guide]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial-number guide]].

<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
File:Ref 18039 stella.webp|Red Stella dial with diamond indexes
File:Ref 18039 wood dial.webp|Wood dial and German day disc
File:Ref 18039 tridor.webp|Tridor 18039B with black onyx dial
</gallery>

== Sources ==
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-18039-day-date-stella-dial-white-gold-lot-383-147 Antiquorum, "Rolex Ref. 18039 Day-Date, 18k white gold with red Stella diamond dial — Antiquorum Monaco, lot 147", Antiquorum, 2025-12-12]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-18039-day-date-lot-345-271 Antiquorum, "Rolex Ref. 18039 Day-Date, 18k white gold with green dégradé diamond dial — Antiquorum Hong Kong, lot 271", Antiquorum, 2021-12-05]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-18039-day-date-lot-340-158 Antiquorum, "Rolex Ref. 18039 Day-Date with wood dial and German day disc, 18k white gold — Antiquorum Forte dei Marmi, lot 158", Antiquorum, 2021-06-26]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-18039-day-date-lot-317-197 Antiquorum, "Rolex Ref. 18039 Day-Date, 18k white gold with red Stella dial and diamond indexes — Antiquorum Geneva, lot 197", Antiquorum, 2018-11-11]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-18039-18038-lot-289-292 Antiquorum, "Rolex Ref. 18039/18038 Day-Date, 18k white gold with charcoal-grey baton dial — Antiquorum Geneva, lot 292", Antiquorum, 2015-03-15]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-18039-day-date-lot-324-171 Antiquorum, "Rolex Ref. 18039 Day-Date, 18k white gold with copper-coloured dial — Antiquorum Geneva, lot 171", Antiquorum, 2019-11-10]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-18039-day-date-lot-373-197 Antiquorum, "Rolex Ref. 18039 Day-Date, 18k white gold — Antiquorum Hong Kong, lot 197", Antiquorum, 2024-10-26]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-18039b-18000-lot-272-253 Antiquorum, "Rolex Ref. 18039B/18000 Day-Date "Tridor", 18k white and yellow gold with champagne Roman dial — Antiquorum Geneva, lot 253", Antiquorum, 2013-05-12]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-18039b-lot-291-482 Antiquorum, "Rolex Ref. 18039B Day-Date "Tridor" with black onyx dial, box and guarantee — Antiquorum Geneva, lot 482", Antiquorum, 2015-05-10]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-18039-b-18000-lot-292-663 Antiquorum, "Rolex Ref. 18039B/18000 Day-Date "Tridor" with midnight-blue diamond dial — Antiquorum Hong Kong, lot 663", Antiquorum, 2015-06-27]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-18039-b-18000-lot-296-101 Antiquorum, "Rolex Ref. 18039B/18000 Day-Date "Tridor" with Silver Jubilee diamond dial — Antiquorum New York, lot 101", Antiquorum, 2015-12-15]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-18039b-18039b-18239b-day-date-tridor-lot-323-340 Antiquorum, "Rolex set of three Day-Date "Tridor", refs 18039B and 18239B with gem-set indexes — Antiquorum Hong Kong, lot 340", Antiquorum, 2019-10-27]
* [https://www.bobswatches.com/rolex-blog/resources/quickset-vintage-day-date-models.html Bob's Watches editorial, "Quickset Vintage Day-Date Models", Bob's Watches]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-18039b-day-date-lot-333-131 Antiquorum, "Rolex Day-Date Tridor 18039B, circa 1984 — Antiquorum Geneva lot 131", Antiquorum, 2020-11-08]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-18039b-day-date-lot-352-146 Antiquorum, "Rolex Day-Date Tridor 18039B — Antiquorum Forte dei Marmi lot 146", Antiquorum, 2022-06-24]

[[Category:Day-Date]]

Reference:1802

2026-09-29T08:51:29Z

Klaudiusz: Tighten 1802 dial and caseback wording

{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Day-Date 1802 — Smooth-bezel Day-Date | Rolexopedia
|description=The Rolex 1802 is the smooth-bezel 4-digit Day-Date, using calibers 1555 and 1556 in a 36mm case. This guide covers its dials, Omani commissions, case details and auction records.
|image=Ref 1802 hero.webp
|image_alt=Rolex Day-Date reference 1802 in yellow gold with a smooth polished bezel and silvered dial
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|published_time=2026-08-10T00:34:51Z
|modified_time=2026-08-10T00:42:55Z
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
}}

<small>[[Reference:day-date|Day-Date]] › '''1802'''</small>

<div class="rp-lead">
[[File:Ref 1802 hero.webp|thumb|center|640px|alt=Yellow-gold Rolex Day-Date 1802 with a smooth polished bezel and silvered dial|Yellow-gold Rolex Day-Date 1802 with a smooth polished bezel and silvered dial]]
</div>

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex Day-Date 1802}}

The 1802 is the smooth-bezel member of the four-digit Day-Date family. It shares the 36mm case, calibers 1555 and 1556, non-quickset calendar and bracelet options with the fluted [[Reference:1803|1803]]; the reference difference is the plain, gently domed bezel. Rolex made it in yellow, white and pink gold and platinum. Surviving examples include early pie-pan dials, lacquered Stella dials, tropical black dials and watches made for the Sultanate of Oman.

==Core facts==
{| class="wikitable rp-facts"
|-
! detail
! value
|-
| reference
| 1802
|-
| family
| Day-Date
|-
| production
| alongside the 1803 from around 1960 to the 1977–78 changeover to the 5-digit references
|-
| movement
| caliber 1555, then caliber 1556 from around 1965; hacking from 1972; no quickset
|-
| case
| 36mm President in 18k yellow, white or pink gold, or platinum
|-
| crystal
| acrylic with Cyclops
|-
| bezel
| smooth, polished and gently domed — no fluting, gem-setting or texture
|-
| bracelet
| President; Jubilee on documented examples
|-
| dial
| pie-pan, doorstep, tropical black, Stella lacquer, diamond-set, English / French / Italian / Spanish / Eastern-Arabic calendar discs, Omani Qaboos and Khanjar
|-
| crown
| Twinlock screw-down
|-
| sibling references
| 1803 (fluted), 1804 (gem-set), 1806 (Florentine), 1807 (bark), 1811 (Morellis)
|-
| predecessor
| earlier Day-Date references 6510 / 6511 / 6611 / 6612
|-
| successor
| 5-digit 18028 (yellow gold), 18029 (white gold), 18026 (platinum), all smooth-bezel
|}

==Where it sits in the line==
The four-digit Day-Date references are distinguished largely by bezel treatment. The 1802 has a smooth bezel; the [[Reference:1803|1803]] is fluted; the [[Reference:1804|1804]] is gem-set; the [[Reference:1806|1806]] has a Florentine finish; the [[Reference:1807|1807]] has a bark finish; and the [[Reference:1811|1811]] has a Morellis finish. The last digit is a useful guide, but the number between the lugs remains the reference check.

The smooth bezel gives the watch a different profile from the fluted 1803. Published production totals for the two references are not available, so claims about relative scarcity should be treated as unverified. The same bezel choice continued with the five-digit [[Reference:18028|18028]].

A note on the number 1800 itself, since it turns up in searches and in older catalogues. Rolex used 1800 as the root of the series rather than as a bezel variant of its own, in the same way that 18000, 18200 and 118000 later stood for whole generations. A small number of watches were catalogued as "ref. 1800" by the auction houses in the early 2000s, among them a 1965 yellow-gold example at Christie's in London in 2004 and a 1973 blue-dial example at Christie's in Hong Kong in 2006. Those attributions have not been repeated since, no editorial source describes a distinct 1800 bezel, and the number does not appear in the marketplace reference indexes that carry 1802, 1803 and 1811. Treat a watch offered as a 1800 as a 180x-series Day-Date whose specific reference needs checking between the lugs.

==Production outline==
The 1802 runs with the rest of the 4-digit group from around 1960 to the 1977–78 changeover, and it shares the family case-serial stream rather than carrying a sequence of its own. Documented examples span most of that range: case numbers around 497,000 and 1,014,000 on early watches, 1,183,000 and 1,634,000 through the middle 1960s, 2,612,000 by the end of that decade, and 3,781,000 and 3,795,000 on the Omani watches of about 1974, reaching roughly 4,176,000 on late examples. When the 5-digit references took over, the smooth bezel split by metal into the [[Reference:18028|18028]] in yellow gold, the 18029 in white gold and the 18026 in platinum. No Rolex production figure has been published for the 1802, and the available records do not establish its production relative to the 1803.

==Movement notes==
The 1802 uses the standard 4-digit Day-Date movement. Caliber 1555 from the start, replaced by caliber 1556 around 1965 with the 19,800 vph rate, the additional jewel and the free-sprung Microstella balance. Hacking seconds arrived across the 1500 family in 1972. No 4-digit Day-Date has a quickset, so both day and date advance only by running the hands through midnight, which distinguishes it from the later five-digit quickset references. There is no 1802-specific caliber; the bezel changes the look of the watch, not the mechanism. The [[Reference:Movements]] page holds the caliber lineage, and the [[Reference:1803|1803]] entry covers the 1555-to-1556 transition in detail.

==Dial map==
The dial range includes early pie-pan profiles, usually silvered or champagne with applied baton markers. The term “doorstep” is used for dials with elongated rectangular markers at six and nine that step in from the outer edge. The label is collector terminology rather than a separate reference.

Lacquered dials are another documented branch. Phillips sold a 1970 yellow-gold example with a black lacquered Stella dial, still accompanied by its punched Attestation de Chronomètre Officiel, and the Stella colours reach the 1802 as they do the other 4-digit references, burgundy and oxblood among the documented examples. Christie's catalogued a platinum 1802 with a turquoise lacquer dial and diamond markers. Age then does its own work: Antiquorum and Phillips both catalogued the same yellow-gold watch with a tropical black "spider" dial, the lacquer crazed into a fine web, and tropical browns turn up across the reference as they do on any black-lacquered Rolex dial of the period. Diamond-set indices appear on gold and platinum examples throughout.

Calendar discs are a separate variation axis. Documented 1802 examples carry several language options. Beyond English, documented examples carry French, Italian, Spanish and Eastern-Arabic day discs, and the Arabic-calendar watches overlap with the Gulf commissions below. The deeper dial taxonomy that spans the whole President line sits on the [[Reference:1803|1803]] entry.

[[File:Ref 1802 stella.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=Yellow-gold Rolex Day-Date 1802 with a black lacquered Stella dial on a Jubilee bracelet|A 1970 yellow-gold 1802 with a black lacquered Stella dial and French day disc, on its Jubilee reference 6311, shown with the chronometer attestation that came with it.]]

==Case, bezel, crystal, and crown==
The case is the 36mm gold or platinum Oyster shared across the 4-digit Day-Date, with a Twinlock screw-down crown, a screw-down caseback and an acrylic crystal with Cyclops. The bezel is the reference: a plain polished ring, gently domed, with none of the worked surface of its siblings. On a polished-out case that smoothness can be hard to read, which is part of why the reference gets miscatalogued.

That miscataloguing matters because the caseback can mislead. Phillips catalogued one yellow-gold 1802 as "Ref. 1802, stamped 1803 inside the case back" and, three lots later in the same sale, a platinum one as "Ref. 1802, stamped 1804 in the caseback". Two watches, two different sibling references stamped inside, both genuine 1802s. Antiquorum hedges the same problem from the other direction, listing several watches as "Ref. 1802/1803" rather than committing.

The explanation is mundane. The 4-digit Day-Dates share a case, a caseback and a movement, Rolex stamped casebacks in lots that did not track the bezel fitted, and a replacement bezel can change the appearance, so a watch may carry a different bezel from the one fitted at delivery. Attribution rests on the number engraved between the lugs, read against the bezel actually fitted. The caseback stamp dates the caseback lot and nothing more.

==Bracelets, end links, and clasps==
The 1802 wears the President, with end links stamped 53 and the concealed deployant clasp on documented examples. The Jubilee is not a substitution to be suspicious of on this reference: Phillips catalogued a 1970 yellow-gold 1802 on a Rolex Jubilee reference 6311 with end links stamped 53 and a folding deployant clasp stamped 4.69, all of it signed and consistent with the watch. Rolex supplied the Day-Date on the Jubilee from the originals era onward, and the 1802 is one of the references where that fitment is documented rather than assumed.

The usual caution still applies. A clasp date code dates the bracelet rather than the watch head, and decades of service can leave a later bracelet on an earlier case; the 2004 Christie's sale of a 180x-series example carried a saleroom notice flagging exactly that, an unsigned clasp casting doubt on the bracelet as a whole. The cross-family detail sits on [[Reference:Bracelets]].

==Special branches==
===The Omani Day-Dates===
Omani commissions form a documented branch of the reference. Two emblems recur. The first is the signature of Sultan Qaboos bin Said, applied in green on silvered dials; Christie's catalogued a white-gold example with the Qaboos signature, case number 3,795,515, dated to about 1974, and further Qaboos examples in yellow and pink gold. The second is the red Khanjar, the crossed-daggers emblem of the Sultanate.

A well-documented Khanjar example is the one Phillips sold in 2015: a 1975 platinum example, case number 3,856,081 repeated inside the caseback, with a blue dial carrying the red printed Khanjar at six o'clock and round-cut and baguette diamond markers, on a platinum President. Its case is signed Asprey. Phillips describes Asprey as the London retailer through which the Sultan’s early Rolex watches were supplied; that catalog text supports the retailer link, but does not establish that Asprey applied every emblem. Khimji Ramdas is also named on period Gulf Day-Date records. The lot sold for CHF 131,000 in 2015, the highest result in the cited list.

The same commission practice appears on the [[Reference:1803|1803]], [[Reference:1804|1804]] and platinum [[Reference:1831|1831]]. The records cited here show that the 1802 was used for both Qaboos and Khanjar dials; they do not establish how its volume compares with other Day-Date references.

==Auction record==
The listed results show a wide spread by configuration. Plain yellow-gold examples sold for USD 8,925 at Bonhams in April 2023, CHF 9,375 at Antiquorum in November 2019 and CHF 12,500 at Antiquorum in May 2019. These individual results do not establish a general price guide for the smooth bezel.

Omani examples in the listed records reached higher results: the platinum, diamond-set Khanjar sold by Phillips in 2015 brought CHF 131,000, while a second platinum Khanjar at Christie’s in 2023 brought CHF 113,400. Qaboos-signature examples brought USD 44,100 in Dubai in 2022 and CHF 43,750 in Geneva in 2021. These results reflect the documented dial, commission and provenance details of each lot.

Phillips sold a 1970 yellow-gold black-lacquered example on its Jubilee, with the original chronometer attestation, for CHF 43,750 against a CHF 15,000–30,000 estimate. A comparison with a silvered-dial watch is not made here because the records are not matched pairs.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! date
! house
! configuration
! result
|-
| May 2015
| Phillips Geneva, Glamorous Day-Date, lot 10
| platinum, diamond-set, blue dial with red Khanjar, Asprey-signed case, 1975
| CHF 131,000
|-
| Oct 2023
| Christie's Geneva, Passion for Time, lot 2206
| platinum, diamond-set, pie-pan dial with red Khanjar
| CHF 113,400
|-
| Nov 2021
| Christie's Hong Kong, An Exceptional Season of Watches, lot 2315
| yellow gold, Spanish calendar disc
| HKD 125,000
|-
| Mar 2022
| Christie's Dubai, Watches Online: The Dubai Edit, lot 43
| gold, diamond-set, made for Sultan Qaboos
| USD 44,100
|-
| May 2015
| Phillips Geneva, Glamorous Day-Date, lot 7
| yellow gold, black lacquered Stella dial, Jubilee, 1970
| CHF 43,750
|-
| Nov 2021
| Christie's Geneva, Rare Watches, lot 38
| gold, diamond-set, Arabic calendar disc
| CHF 43,750
|-
| May 2019
| Antiquorum Geneva, lot 323
| yellow gold
| CHF 12,500
|-
| Nov 2019
| Antiquorum Geneva, lot 162
| yellow gold
| CHF 9,375
|-
| Apr 2023
| Bonhams, lot 59
| 18k gold, white dial
| USD 8,925
|-
| Nov 2023
| Christie's Geneva, Rare Watches, lot 71
| white gold, Qaboos signature in green, case 3,795,515, c.1974
| not sold (est. CHF 30,000–50,000)
|-
| Oct 2023
| Christie's Dubai, lot 26
| yellow gold, Qaboos signature
| not sold (est. 35,000–55,000)
|}

Phillips ran two further 1802 lots in the same 2015 Glamorous Day-Date sale, in white and yellow gold, and Antiquorum offered two in the 2006 sale of the Mondani collection. Results for those four are not recorded here, and they matter mainly as evidence of how broadly the reference was made across metals.

<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
File:Ref 1802 hero.webp|Yellow-gold 1802 with smooth bezel and silvered dial
File:Ref 1802 khanjar.webp|Platinum 1802 with red Khanjar dial, Phillips 2015 lot 10
File:Ref 1802 stella.webp|Yellow-gold 1802 with black lacquered Stella dial, Phillips 2015 lot 7
</gallery>

==Related references==
* [[Reference:1803|Day-Date 1803]] (fluted President, 1960–1977)
* [[Reference:1804|Day-Date 1804]]
* [[Reference:1806|Day-Date 1806]]
* [[Reference:1807|Day-Date 1807]]
* [[Reference:1811|Day-Date 1811]]
* [[Reference:1831|Day-Date 1831]]
* [[Reference:18028|Day-Date 18028]] (1977–1988 smooth-bezel successor)
* [[Reference:6510|Day-Date 6510]] (1956–1957)

See also the [[Reference:day-date|Day-Date family index]], [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|bracelet & clasp guide]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial numbers by year]].

== Sources ==
* ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' — Colin A. White, Morning Tundra
* [https://www.puccipapaleo.com/bookstore/day-date ''Day-Date — The Presidential Rolex'' — Pucci Papaleo, Pucci Papaleo Editore, 2015]
* [https://www.mondanibooks.com/rolex-day-date-history ''Rolex Day-Date'' — Giorgia Mondani and Guido Mondani, Guido Mondani Editore]
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080115/10 Phillips, "Rolex Ref. 1802, stamped 1804 in the caseback, Day-Date — a very rare and important platinum and diamond-set calendar wristwatch made for the Sultanate of Oman and retailed by Asprey, Phillips Geneva, Glamorous Day-Date, lot 10", Phillips, 2015]
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080115/7 Phillips, "Rolex Ref. 1802, stamped 1803 inside the case back, Day-Date — a rare yellow gold calendar wristwatch with black lacquered "Stella" dial and Attestation de Chronometre Officiel, Phillips Geneva, Glamorous Day-Date, lot 7", Phillips, 2015]
* Christie's, "Rolex, very rare platinum and diamond-set Day-Date, ref. 1802, with pie-pan dial and red Khanjar symbol — Christie's Geneva, Passion for Time, lot 2206", Christie's, 2023
* Christie's, "Rolex, a very rare 18K white gold Day-Date made for the Sultanate of Oman, ref. 1802 — Christie's Geneva, Rare Watches, lot 71", Christie's, 2023
* Christie's, "Rolex, Day-Date ref. 1802, a rare gold and diamond-set automatic wristwatch made for Sultan Qaboos of Oman — Christie's Dubai, Watches Online: The Dubai Edit, lot 43", Christie's, 2022
* Christie's, "Rolex, a rare 18K gold and diamond-set automatic wristwatch with sweep centre seconds, Arabic calendar and bracelet, ref. 1802 — Christie's Geneva, Rare Watches, lot 38", Christie's, 2021
* Christie's, "Rolex, an 18K gold automatic wristwatch with sweep centre seconds, day, date and bracelet, ref. 1802 — Christie's Hong Kong, An Exceptional Season of Watches, lot 2315", Christie's, 2021
* Antiquorum, "Rolex, ref. 1802, Day-Date, yellow gold — Antiquorum Geneva, Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces, lot 162", Antiquorum, 2019
* Bonhams, "Rolex, an 18K gold automatic calendar bracelet watch, ref. 1802 — Bonhams, lot 59", Bonhams, 2023
* [https://www.collectorsquare.com/en/watches/rolex/day-date/ref-rolex-1802/lpi Collector Square, "Rolex Day-Date ref. 1802 — Collector Square LuxPrice-Index auction record", Collector Square]
* [https://www.vintagewatchesmilano.com/?p=8025 Vintage Watches Milano, "Early Rolex Day-Date ref. 1802 with Doorstep dial", Vintage Watches Milano]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/articles/the-rolex-day-date-a-complete-collectors-guide Sotheby's editorial, "The Rolex Day-Date: A Complete Collector's Guide", Sotheby's]
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/history-rolex-day-date-1956-present-president-watch-in-depth-review/ Monochrome editorial, "In-Depth: The History of the Rolex Day-Date, The Presidential Watch", Monochrome Watches]
* [https://italianwatchspotter.com/the-history-of-the-rolex-day-date/?lang=en Italian Watch Spotter editorial, "The History of the Rolex Day-Date", Italian Watch Spotter]
* [https://watchbase.com/blog/2015/02/21/rolex-day-date-history WatchBase editorial, "Rolex Day-Date History", WatchBase, 2015-02-21]
* [https://ottuhr.com/index/rolex/day-date-president/rolex-day-date-1803/ Ottuhr editorial, "Rolex Day-Date 1803 Reference Report", Ottuhr]

[[Category:Day-Date]]
[[Category:References]]

Reference:19018

2026-09-29T08:50:23Z

Klaudiusz: Tighten 19018 production and Oysterquartz prose

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex 19018 Oysterquartz Day-Date}}
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Day-Date 19018 — Oysterquartz President, 1977–2001 | Rolexopedia
|description=The 19018 is the yellow-gold Oysterquartz Day-Date, using Rolex caliber 5055 in an angular integrated-bracelet case. The page covers its 1977–2001 production context, movement, dials, case and documented auction examples.
|keywords=Rolex 19018, Oysterquartz, Day-Date, caliber 5055, quartz, 19019, 19028, integrated bracelet, President
|image=Ref 19018 hero.webp
|image_alt=Rolex Oysterquartz Day-Date 19018 in yellow gold with fluted bezel and angular integrated bracelet
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|published_time=2026-06-08T00:41:50Z
|modified_time=2026-08-04T00:11:13Z
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
}}

<small>[[Reference:day-date|Day-Date]] › '''19018'''</small>

<div class="rp-lead">
[[File:Ref 19018 hero.webp|thumb|center|640px|alt=Rolex Oysterquartz Day-Date 19018 in yellow gold, side profile showing the fluted bezel and integrated bracelet. Sotheby's, case 9,723,331|Rolex Oysterquartz Day-Date 19018 in yellow gold, side profile showing the fluted bezel and integrated bracelet. Sotheby's, case 9,723,331]]
</div>

The 19018 is the yellow-gold quartz Day-Date in Rolex’s Oysterquartz line. In 1977, after several years of in-house development, Rolex introduced its own thermocompensated quartz movement and an angular case with an integrated bracelet. The 19018 uses caliber 5055, a round fluted bezel and a 36mm case; the Day-Date version was produced in yellow gold.

==Core facts==
{| class="wikitable rp-facts"
|-
! detail
! value
|-
| reference
| 19018
|-
| family
| Day-Date (Oysterquartz)
|-
| production
| 1977 to about 2001 (COSC certification ended 2001; the wider Oysterquartz line ran to about 2003)
|-
| movement
| caliber 5055 quartz — thermocompensated, 11 jewels, 32 kHz, about ±0.7 sec/day, COSC; day and date quickset
|-
| case
| 36mm 18k yellow gold, angular integrated Oysterquartz case
|-
| crystal
| sapphire
|-
| bezel
| fluted
|-
| bracelet
| integrated Oysterquartz bracelet (not a removable President)
|-
| crown
| Twinlock screw-down
|-
| sibling references
| 19019 (white gold), 19028 (pyramid bezel, the rare one), 19038 / 19048 (diamond bezel), pavé 191xx; Datejust Oysterquartz 17000 / 17013 / 17014 on the date-only caliber 5035
|-
| predecessor
| none; a new case that replaced nothing directly
|-
| successor
| none; no quartz Day-Date followed
|}

==Where it sits in the line==
The 19018 uses a different platform from the mechanical Presidents. It combines a quartz movement with an angular case and an integrated bracelet, while the mechanical references use a round case and separate President bracelet. It shares only the Day-Date complication and the fluted bezel with its mechanical cousins. Within the [[Reference:day-date|Day-Date line]] it is the quartz outlier.

The Day-Date Oysterquartz came in two metals, the yellow-gold 19018 and the white-gold 19019, and those two are the pair that turns up. The pyramid-bezel 19028, diamond-bezel 19038 and 19048, and pavé variants are separate configurations; the cited auction record includes a diamond-set 19038. The steel and two-tone Oysterquartz watches are Datejusts (17000, 17013, 17014), not Day-Dates; the Day-Date Oysterquartz was gold only.

==Production outline==
Rolex launched the Oysterquartz in 1977. Sources give different totals for cased watches and for movements produced, so those figures should not be treated as directly comparable. Catalogue histories place COSC certification through 2001 and the last Oysterquartz watches around 2003. The 19018’s core specification remained stable across the run.

==Movement notes==
The caliber 5055 powers the 19018. It is a thermocompensated quartz movement with 11 jewels and a 32 kHz oscillator, accurate to about ±0.7 seconds a day when Rolex's mechanical chronometers of the period ran at roughly +6/-4. Rolex developed it after the consortium Beta 21 project and used it across the Oysterquartz line. The 5055 drives both the day and the date and quicksets both from the crown. Rolex certified the movement as a chronometer during the production period; the cited material does not establish a universal certification boundary for every 19018. The date-only sibling, the caliber 5035, powers the Datejust Oysterquartz. The [[Reference:Movements]] page holds the caliber lineage.

==Dial map==
<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
File:Ref 19018 detail.webp|alt=Rolex 19018 dial close-up reading Oysterquartz Day-Date|The dial signature reads "Oysterquartz Day-Date"; fluted bezel and "T SWISS MADE T" tritium, Italian day disc. Photo: Watch Collecting Lifestyle
File:Ref 19018 dial-detail-full.webp|alt=Rolex Oysterquartz Day-Date 19018 in yellow gold, full dial and case view|The full dial and case view, fluted bezel and champagne dial signed "Oysterquartz Day-Date." Photo: Grand Caliber
</gallery>

The 19018 carried the standard Day-Date dial range adapted to the quartz movement. Champagne and silver dials with applied gold markers are documented, along with Roman-numeral, diamond-hour-marker and occasional special-order dials. The day disc follows Day-Date practice and was supplied in a range of languages to order, so the spelled-out day at twelve varies with the market an example was sold into. The cited examples show champagne, silver, Roman-numeral and diamond-marker dials, along with occasional special orders. This list is not a complete factory dial register. The [[Reference:1803|1803]] entry carries the deep President dial taxonomy.

==Case, bezel, crystal, and crown==
The Oysterquartz case is the 19018's signature. Where the President is round and soft-edged, the Oysterquartz is angular and beveled, with flat brushed surfaces and sharp facets in the integrated-bracelet idiom of late-1970s design. Rolex kept the round fluted bezel and 36mm proportions while using angular case surfaces and an integrated bracelet. The crystal is sapphire and the crown the Twinlock screw-down. Its angular case distinguishes it from the round mechanical Day-Date case.

==Bracelets, end links, and clasps==
The Oysterquartz bracelet is integrated into the case in three-piece links, semi-circular centre links echoing the President but sitting flat and angular to match the case. It is not interchangeable with a standard President bracelet; the integrated case and bracelet form a separate Oysterquartz platform. Bracelet and clasp detail across the family sits on [[Reference:Bracelets]].

==Auction record==
The cited auction record includes a diamond-set yellow-gold 19038, nicknamed the “Egyptian,” sold by Phillips at the Geneva Watch Auction: FIVE in May 2017 for CHF 26,250 against a CHF 10,000–20,000 estimate. Other 19018 lots in the cited record use standard champagne or silver configurations. Sotheby's offered one in Hong Kong in July 2020, case 9,723,331 from about 1986 with its guarantee, manual and box, at HKD 90,000–140,000, and the same watch came back in a Fine Watches sale in February 2022 at GBP 10,000–15,000. Neither Sotheby's result has been published.

One cited result carries celebrity provenance. Bonhams sold a champagne-dial 19018/19000 from Sir Michael Caine's own collection at its March 2022 "Sir Michael Caine: The Personal Collection" sale in London — lot 111, catalogued as the watch Caine bought new shortly after the Oysterquartz launched in the late 1970s, his third Rolex, and wore as Lawrence Jamieson in ''Dirty Rotten Scoundrels'' (1988); a 1982 Steve Schapiro photograph documents him wearing it at his Los Angeles home. Against an estimate of GBP 8,000–12,000 it hammered at GBP 125,250, a result that should be read in the context of its provenance rather than as a baseline for ordinary 19018 examples.

The lots show why bracelet condition and completeness need to be recorded separately: the integrated bracelet cannot be replaced with a standard President bracelet. The cited results do not establish a general price premium for any one condition grade.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! date
! house
! configuration
! result
|-
| March 2022
| Bonhams, Sir Michael Caine: The Personal Collection, lot 111
| 19018/19000, champagne dial, ex-Michael Caine, worn in ''Dirty Rotten Scoundrels'' (1988)
| GBP 125,250 (est. GBP 8,000–12,000)
|-
| May 2017
| Phillips, The Geneva Watch Auction: FIVE, lot 136
| 19038 "Egyptian", yellow gold, diamond-set
| CHF 26,250 (est. CHF 10,000–20,000)
|-
| July 2020
| Sotheby's Hong Kong, Important Watches, lot 2118
| 19018, champagne dial, case 9,723,331, c.1986, full set
| est. HKD 90,000–140,000; result not published
|-
| February 2022
| Sotheby's, Fine Watches, lot 12
| the same 19018, case 9,723,331, re-offered
| est. GBP 10,000–15,000; result not published
|}

==Related references==
* [[Reference:18208|Day-Date 18208]], 1988–2000
* [[Reference:18238|Day-Date 18238]], 1988–2000
* [[Reference:18248|Day-Date 18248]], 1988–2000
* [[Reference:18348|Day-Date 18348]], 1988–2000
* [[Reference:18028|Day-Date 18028]], 1977–1988
* [[Reference:18038|Day-Date 18038]], caliber 3055 President (1977–1988)

See also the [[Reference:day-date|Day-Date family index]], [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|bracelet & clasp guide]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial numbers by year]].

== Sources ==
* ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' — Colin A. White, Morning Tundra
* [http://www.oysterquartz.net/faq.htm Oysterquartz.net, "Oysterquartz.net — reference and movement archive", Oysterquartz.net]
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/27705/lot/111/sir-michael-caines-rolex-an-18k-gold-quartz-calendar-bracelet-watch-oysterquartz-day-date-ref-1901819000-circa-1979/ Bonhams, "Sir Michael Caine's Rolex — Oysterquartz Day-Date Ref. 19018/19000 — Sir Michael Caine: The Personal Collection, lot 111", Bonhams, 2022-03-02]
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080117/136 Phillips, "Rolex Ref. 19038 Day-Date Oysterquartz 'Egyptian' — The Geneva Watch Auction: FIVE, lot 136", Phillips, 2017-05-12]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2020/important-watches/rolex-oyster-quartz-day-date-reference-19018-a Sotheby's, "Rolex Oyster Quartz Day-Date, Reference 19018 — Important Watches, Hong Kong, lot 2118", Sotheby's, 2020-07-11]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2022/fine-watches-6/oysterquartz-day-date-ref-19018-yellow-gold Sotheby's, "Oysterquartz Day-Date, Ref 19018 — Fine Watches, lot 12", Sotheby's, 2022-02]
* [https://www.the1916company.com/blog/rolex-quartz-movement.html The 1916 Company editorial, "Rolex Quartz Movement History: Beta 21, Oysterquartz & Rare Models", The 1916 Company]
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/history-rolex-day-date-1956-present-president-watch-in-depth-review/ Monochrome editorial, "In-Depth: The History of the Rolex Day-Date, The Presidential Watch", Monochrome Watches]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/ Sotheby's editorial, "The Rolex Day-Date: A Complete Collector's Guide", Sotheby's]
* [https://www.fratellowatches.com/rolex-day-date-historical-overview-of-rolexs-flagship/ Fratello editorial, "Rolex Day-Date — Historical Overview Of Rolex's Flagship", Fratello Watches]
* [https://watchbase.com/blog/2015/02/21/rolex-day-date-history WatchBase editorial, "Rolex Day-Date History", WatchBase, 2015-02-21]
* [https://www.swisswatchexpo.com/thewatchclub/2023/02/02/rolex-oysterquartz-ultimate-guide/ SwissWatchExpo editorial, "Rolex Oysterquartz Ultimate Guide", SwissWatchExpo, 2023-02-02]
* [https://beckertime.com/history-of-rolex-oysterquartz/ BeckerTime editorial, "History of the Rolex Oysterquartz", BeckerTime]

[[Category:Day-Date]]
[[Category:References]]

Reference:218206

2026-09-29T08:49:09Z

Klaudiusz: Tighten 218206 prose and fix related-reference structure

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex Day-Date II 218206}}
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Day-Date II 218206 — Platinum Day-Date II with caliber 3156
|description=The Rolex 218206 is the platinum 41mm Day-Date II (caliber 3156, 2008-2015) with a smooth bezel and documented ice-blue, Arabic, Roman and diamond-set dials.
|keywords=Rolex 218206, Day-Date II 218206, platinum Day-Date, ice-blue dial, glacier blue, caliber 3156, President's President, Royal Khanjar
|image=Ref 218206 hero.webp
|image_alt=Platinum Rolex Day-Date II 218206 ice-blue dial
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|published_time=2026-06-22T01:40:47Z
|modified_time=2026-08-04T00:11:24Z
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
|titlemode=replace
}}
<small>[[Reference:day-date|Day-Date]] › '''218206'''</small>

<div class="rp-lead">
[[File:Ref 218206 hero.webp|thumb|center|640px|alt=Rolex Day-Date II 218206 in platinum — the ice-blue dial Rolex reserves for platinum, on the 41mm case and platinum President bracelet.|Rolex Day-Date II 218206 in platinum — the ice-blue dial Rolex reserves for platinum, on the 41mm case and platinum President bracelet.]]
</div>

The 218206 is the platinum Day-Date II, a 41mm model produced from 2008 to 2015. Rolex paired the platinum case with a smooth bezel, a platinum President bracelet and caliber 3156. The reference was followed by the 40mm 228206 in 2015.

==Core facts==
{| class="wikitable rp-facts"
|-
! detail
! value
|-
| reference
| 218206
|-
| family
| Day-Date (Day-Date II, 41mm)
|-
| production
| 2008 to 2015
|-
| movement
| caliber 3156, 31 jewels, 28,800 vph, ~48h, double quickset, Parachrom hairspring, Paraflex, COSC
|-
| case
| 41mm 950 platinum
|-
| crystal
| sapphire
|-
| bezel
| smooth (domed) — the platinum Day-Date was not offered fluted in this generation
|-
| bracelet
| platinum President with concealed Crownclasp
|-
| dial
| ice-blue (glacier blue, platinum-only) in Roman, Arabic-numeral and diamond layouts; also rhodium, black, white
|-
| crown
| Twinlock screw-down
|-
| predecessor
| 18206 / 118206 (36mm platinum)
|-
| successor
| 228206 (Day-Date 40, caliber 3255, from 2015)
|-
| siblings
| 218238 (yellow gold), 218239 (white gold), 218235 (Everose), 218348 / 218349 (diamond)
|}

==Where it sits in the line==
The 218206 is the platinum member of the Day-Date II, the generation that scaled the President to 41mm from 2008 to 2015. It stands in a platinum lineage of its own, running from the 36mm 18206 of the 5-digit [[Reference:18208|18208]] era through the 36mm 118206 to this 41mm reference, and on to the 40mm 228206 that replaced it. The yellow-gold Day-Date II is the [[Reference:218238|218238]], with white gold the 218239, Everose the 218235, and factory diamond bezels on the gold 218348 and 218349. The cited 218206 records use a smooth bezel; Rolex introduced a fluted platinum Day-Date later, in 2023.

==Production outline==
The 218206 ran for the Day-Date II's full 2008–2015 life. The 41mm case defined the Day-Date II generation, which ended when the 40mm Day-Date 40 replaced it in 2015. The ice-blue dial appears in later examples, often dated around 2013, but Rolex has not published a serial boundary for the change. No production figure for the 218206 has surfaced.

==Movement notes==
The 218206 runs the caliber 3156, the 41mm derivative of the caliber 3155: 31 jewels, 28,800 vph, a roughly 48-hour reserve, double quickset for day and date, and COSC certification, with the Parachrom hairspring and Paraflex shock protection of the period. It is the same movement as the gold [[Reference:218238|218238]], so what separates the two is the case metal and the dial. The [[Reference:Movements]] page holds the caliber lineage, and the [[Reference:218238|218238]] entry covers the 3156 in detail.

==Dial map==
[[File:Ref 218206 roman.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=Platinum Rolex 218206 ice-blue concentric Roman dial|The ice-blue concentric-guilloché Roman dial, one documented 218206 layout.]]

Rolex uses an ice-blue or glacier-blue dial on its platinum Day-Date models. The cited 218206 examples include concentric Roman, Arabic-numeral and diamond-set layouts. Auction catalogues also record rhodium, grey, black and white dials; these are individual configurations rather than a complete factory dial register. The deep dial taxonomy that spans the President line sits on the [[Reference:1803|1803]] entry.

==Case, bezel, crystal, and crown==
The case is 41mm in 950 platinum, with a sapphire crystal and a Twinlock screw-down crown. The bezel is the smooth, gently domed platinum bezel; the fluting that the gold and Everose Day-Date II references carried was not offered on the platinum in this generation, and the platinum fluted bezel did not arrive until 2023. The 41mm case is larger than the 36mm President cases that preceded it.

==Bracelets, end links, and clasps==
The 218206 wears the platinum President bracelet, the three-piece semi-circular-link bracelet with the concealed Crownclasp, scaled to the 41mm case. The bracelet is solid platinum and contributes substantially to the watch's weight. As with any President, a clasp date code dates the bracelet, which may be older or newer than the head, and the cross-family detail sits on [[Reference:Bracelets]].

==Special branches==
===The Royal Khanjar===
[[File:Ref 218206 khanjar.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=Platinum Rolex Day-Date II 218206 Royal Khanjar with ice-blue diamond-set dial|The diamond-set “Royal Khanjar” 218206, an Oman commission with the Khanjar engraved on the caseback.]]

A platinum, diamond-set 218206 with an ice-blue dial was catalogued as delivered to the Diwan of the Royal Court in Oman around 2012. Sotheby's catalogued it with the royal Khanjar emblem engraved on the caseback, placing the 218206 at the modern end of the Gulf-commission tradition that runs back through the platinum [[Reference:1831|1831]] and the 6612B "Lone Star."

==Auction record==
The cited auction record includes a 2025 Royal Khanjar lot whose result was not published, a standard ice-blue example sold by Antiquorum for CHF 45,000, and an ice-blue Arabic example sold by Bonhams for £32,000. These watches differ in dial, provenance and completeness, so the results should not be treated as a current price range or a general premium for any one configuration.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! date
! house
! configuration
! result
|-
| 2025
| Sotheby's
| platinum "Royal Khanjar", diamond-set, ice-blue, Oman, c.2012
| result not published
|-
| 2025
| Antiquorum Geneva, lot 768
| platinum, ice-blue dial, c.2008, full set
| CHF 45,000
|-
| 2025
| Bonhams London, lot 8
| platinum, ice-blue Arabic dial, c.2010
| £32,000
|}

==Related references==
* [[Reference:218238|Day-Date 218238]], 2008–2015
* [[Reference:118235|Day-Date 118235]], 2005–2019
* [[Reference:118208|Day-Date 118208]], 2000–2019
* [[Reference:118239|Day-Date 118239]], 2000–2019
* [[Reference:118138|Day-Date 118138]], 2013–2019
* [[Reference:18208|Day-Date 18208]], 1988–2000

See also the [[Reference:day-date|Day-Date family index]], [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|bracelet & clasp guide]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial numbers by year]].

== Sources ==
* ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' — Colin A. White, Morning Tundra
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/30667/lot/8/rolex-a-fine-platinum-automatic-calendar-bracelet-watch-day-date-ii-ref-218206-circa-2010/ Bonhams Watches Department, "Bonhams 218206 Platinum c.2010 production-spec", Bonhams]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/auctions/geneva_auction_may_10th_11th_2025/lots Antiquorum, "Rolex Ref. 218206 Day-Date II, platinum with ice-blue dial — Antiquorum Geneva, lot 768", Antiquorum, 2025]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2025/origins/day-date-ii-royal-khanjar-reference-218206-a Sotheby's Watches Department, "Sotheby's Origins 2025 — Day-Date II Royal Khanjar 218206 Sultan of Oman commission", Sotheby's, 2025]
* [https://watchbase.com/rolex/caliber/3156 Watchbase editorial, "Rolex Caliber 3156 — Watchbase Reference Entry", Watchbase]
* [https://millenarywatches.com/rolex-caliber-3156/ Millenary Watches editorial, "Rolex Caliber 3156 — Millenary Watches", Millenary Watches]
* [https://www.ablogtowatch.com/rolex-datejust-ii-watch-review/ aBlogtoWatch editorial, "Rolex Datejust II + Day-Date II Review", aBlogtoWatch]
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/history-rolex-day-date-1956-present-president-watch-in-depth-review/ Monochrome editorial, "In-Depth: The History of the Rolex Day-Date, The Presidential Watch", Monochrome Watches]
* [https://watchbase.com/rolex/day-date-ii Watchbase editorial, "Rolex Day-Date II — Watchbase Reference List", Watchbase]
* [https://www.swisswatchexpo.com/thewatchclub/2023/01/05/rolex-day-date-platinum-fluted-bezel/ SwissWatchExpo editorial, "Rolex Day-Date: the platinum fluted bezel", SwissWatchExpo, 2023]
* [https://davidsw.com/shop/watch/rolex/rolex-218206-day-date-ii-platinum-with-ice-blue-concentric-roman-dial-3/ David SW, "Rolex 218206 Day-Date II Platinum with Ice Blue Concentric Roman Dial", David SW]
* [https://italianwatchspotter.com/the-history-of-the-rolex-day-date/?lang=en Italian Watch Spotter editorial, "The History of the Rolex Day-Date", Italian Watch Spotter]

[[Category:Day-Date]]

Reference:18078

2026-09-29T08:47:37Z

Klaudiusz: Tighten 18078 dial and auction wording

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex Day-Date 18078}}
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Day-Date 18078 — The Bark-Finish President
|description=The Rolex 18078 is a yellow-gold bark-finish (écorce) 5-digit Day-Date President with caliber 3055 and sapphire crystal. The page covers its relationship to the 4-digit 1807 and documented wood, stone, Stella and Khanjar dial examples.
|keywords=Rolex 18078, Day-Date 18078, bark finish Day-Date, écorce, yellow gold President, caliber 3055, wood dial Day-Date, 5-digit Day-Date
|image=Ref 18078 hero.webp
|image_alt=Yellow gold Rolex Day-Date 18078 bark finish wood dial
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|published_time=2026-06-16T02:50:28Z
|modified_time=2026-08-04T00:10:47Z
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
|titlemode=replace
}}
<small>[[Reference:day-date|Day-Date]] › '''18078'''</small>

<div class="rp-lead">
[[File:Ref 18078 hero.webp|thumb|center|640px|alt=Rolex Day-Date 18078 in yellow gold — the coarse bark (écorce) texture on the bezel and bracelet centre links, here with a burl-wood dial.|Rolex Day-Date 18078 in yellow gold — the coarse bark (écorce) texture on the bezel and bracelet centre links, here with a burl-wood dial.]]
</div>

The 18078 is the bark-finish Day-Date of the sapphire-crystal era and the 5-digit successor to the 4-digit bark [[Reference:1807|1807]]. It is a yellow-gold President whose bezel and bracelet centre links carry the coarse vertical “bark” texture, called écorce in French, while the case flanks stay polished. It uses caliber 3055 and a sapphire crystal; catalogued examples date from the late 1970s through the 1980s. Surviving examples have champagne and silvered dials as well as wood, hardstone, lacquered Stella and Omani Khanjar configurations.

==Core facts==
{| class="wikitable rp-facts"
|-
! detail
! value
|-
| reference
| 18078
|-
| family
| Day-Date
|-
| production
| circa 1977/78 to 1988
|-
| movement
| caliber 3055, 27 jewels, 28,800 vph, single quickset (date); sapphire era
|-
| case
| 36mm 18k yellow gold President
|-
| crystal
| sapphire
|-
| bezel
| bark (écorce) finish
|-
| bracelet
| President 8385 with bark-finished centre links, hidden Crownclasp, solid links
|-
| dial
| Documented examples include champagne and silver stick, wood/burl, hardstone, Stella, Roman, diamond-index and Khanjar dials
|-
| crown
| Twinlock screw-down
|-
| siblings
| 18038 (fluted), 18048 (diamond), 18079 (white-gold bark), 18039 / 18049 (white-gold fluted / diamond)
|-
| predecessor
| 1807 (4-digit bark)
|-
| successor
| 18248 (bark, caliber 3155, double quickset)
|}

==Where it sits in the line==
The 18078 is the bark member of the first 5-digit Day-Date generation, the sapphire-crystal continuation of the bark line that runs from the 4-digit [[Reference:1807|1807]]. The 5-digit references split by metal and finish: the [[Reference:18038|18038]] is the yellow-gold fluted reference, the [[Reference:18048|18048]] carries the diamond bezel, and the bark appears in yellow gold as the 18078 and in white gold as the 18079. The bark is a coarse vertical texture, distinct from the finer cross-hatched Florentine of the 1806 and the watered moiré Morellis of the 1811.

The 18078 shares the 5-digit Day-Date platform with the 18038, including caliber 3055, sapphire crystal and the President bracelet family. The bark finish and individual dial configuration distinguish the surviving examples.

==Production outline==
The 18078 ran from the late 1970s, when the 5-digit references took over with sapphire crystals and the caliber 3055, until 1988, when the caliber 3155 arrived. Bark-finished Day-Dates continued into the caliber-3155 era, so the 18078 should be kept separate from the later 18248. No Rolex production figure has surfaced. The surviving auction record shows variation in dial material, markers and special-order markings.

==Movement notes==
The 18078 runs the caliber 3055, the first quickset Day-Date movement: 27 jewels, 28,800 vph, with a date quickset from the crown. The day still has to be advanced by running the hands through midnight, since the day quickset did not arrive until the caliber 3155 in 1988. The movement is the shared sapphire-era Day-Date caliber, COSC-certified like the examples in the fluted 18038 and diamond 18048. The bark treatment is a case and bracelet finish. The [[Reference:Movements]] page holds the caliber lineage, and the [[Reference:18038|18038]] entry covers the 3055 in detail.

==Dial map==
[[File:Ref 18078 tigereye.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=Bark Rolex 18078 with tiger-eye dial|A bark 18078 with a tiger-eye hardstone dial.]]

Documented baseline configurations use champagne or silvered stick dials. Other cited examples carry wood and burl dials, including birch, mahogany, walnut and burlwood; the record also includes hardstone, Stella, Roman-numeral and diamond-index dials. Hardstone dials in onyx, tiger-eye and lapis appear from the early-1980s exotic-dial window, lacquered Stella colours such as burgundy and blue turn up with diamond markers, and Roman-numeral and diamond-index dials round out the range. A champagne 18078 carrying the Omani Khanjar emblem and an Arabic day disc documents the reference's reach into the Gulf special orders. The dial taxonomy that spans the whole President line sits on the [[Reference:1803|1803]] entry.

==Case, bezel, crystal, and crown==
The case is the 36mm yellow-gold Oyster shared across the 5-digit Day-Date, with a sapphire crystal and Cyclops, a Twinlock screw-down crown and a screw-down caseback. The defining feature is the bark finish, a coarse vertical woodgrain worked into the bezel. The case flanks and lugs stay polished, so the texture reads as a deliberate band around the dial rather than an all-over treatment.

==Bracelets, end links, and clasps==
The 18078 wears the President bracelet, reference 8385, with the concealed Crownclasp and the solid links of the 5-digit era. The bark carries onto the bracelet's centre links, so the texture runs unbroken from the bezel down the length of the bracelet. That continuity is a useful inspection point. A bracelet with plain replacement centre links should be recorded as such, since clasp and bracelet dates apply to the bracelet rather than automatically to the watch head. As with any President, a clasp date code dates the bracelet, which may be older or newer than the head, and the cross-family detail sits on [[Reference:Bracelets]].

==Special branches==
===Bark with an exotic dial===
Auction catalogues show the bark case paired with several dial types. Wood and burl dials recur in the cited records, while other lots document hardstone, Stella and special-order dials. These lots establish configurations of individual watches, not a complete factory option list.

===The Omani Khanjar===
[[File:Ref 18078 khanjar.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=Bark Rolex 18078 with Omani Khanjar emblem|A bark 18078 carrying the green Omani Khanjar emblem and an Arabic day disc.]]

Phillips catalogued a bark 18078 at the Geneva Watch Auction XVIII in 2023 with a green Omani Khanjar emblem and an Arabic day disc. The lot documents that individual configuration; it does not establish how many such watches were made.

==Auction record==
The cited auction record includes tiger-eye, onyx, Stella, birch and Khanjar configurations. Antiquorum sold a tiger-eye example in Hong Kong in 2015 for HKD 237,500 and an onyx example with a bark-and-diamond bezel in Geneva in 2016 for CHF 18,750. Sotheby’s catalogued a burgundy Stella diamond example in 2018 as unsold and a birch wood-dial example in 2023. The cited Sotheby’s sources disagree on the 2024 blue Stella lot’s sale status; the table records both descriptions.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! date
! house
! configuration
! result
|-
| 2015
| Antiquorum Hong Kong, lot 661
| tiger-eye dial
| HKD 237,500
|-
| 2016
| Antiquorum Geneva, lot 467
| onyx dial, bark-and-diamond bezel
| CHF 18,750
|-
| 2018
| Sotheby's Geneva, lot 223
| burgundy Stella diamond dial
| unsold
|-
| 2023
| Sotheby's Fine Watches, lot 205
| "Birch" wood dial
| not sold (est. USD 20,000–40,000)
|-
| 2024
| Sotheby's Hong Kong, lot 2106
| blue Stella diamond dial
| HKD 336,000 per Sotheby's editorial; lot page reads unsold
|}

==Related references==
* [[Reference:18028|Day-Date 18028]], 1977–1988
* [[Reference:18038|Day-Date 18038]], caliber 3055 President (1977–1988)
* [[Reference:18048|Day-Date 18048]], 1977–1988
* [[Reference:19018|Day-Date 19018]], Oysterquartz President (1977–2001)
* [[Reference:18208|Day-Date 18208]], 1988–2000
* [[Reference:18238|Day-Date 18238]], 1988–2000

See also the [[Reference:day-date|Day-Date family index]], [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|bracelet & clasp guide]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial numbers by year]].

== Sources ==
* ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' — Colin A. White, Morning Tundra
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080223/96 Phillips, "Rolex Ref. 18078 Day-Date, 18k yellow gold bark with Omani Khanjar emblem and Arabic day disc — Phillips Geneva Watch Auction XVIII, lot 96", Phillips, 2023]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-18078-18000-lot-292-661 Antiquorum, "Rolex Ref. 18078 Day-Date, 18k yellow gold bark with tiger-eye dial — Antiquorum Hong Kong, lot 661", Antiquorum, 2015]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-18078-18200-lot-299-467 Antiquorum, "Rolex Ref. 18078 Day-Date, 18k yellow gold bark-and-diamond bezel with onyx dial — Antiquorum Geneva, lot 467", Antiquorum, 2016]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2023/fine-watches-4/reference-18078-day-date-bark-a-yellow-gold Sotheby's, "Rolex Ref. 18078 Day-Date "Birch", 18k yellow gold bark with birch wood dial — Sotheby's Fine Watches, lot 205", Sotheby's, 2023]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2020/watches-online/rolex-ref-18078-18000-day-date-a-yellow-gold Sotheby's, "Rolex Ref. 18078/18000 Day-Date, 18k yellow gold bark with burl-wood dial — Sotheby's Watches Online, lot 118", Sotheby's, 2020]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/important-watches-i-2/day-date-stella-reference-18078-a-yellow-gold-and Sotheby's, "Rolex Ref. 18078 Day-Date "Stella", 18k yellow gold bark with blue Stella diamond dial — Sotheby's Important Watches I, Hong Kong, lot 2106", Sotheby's, 2024]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/ Sotheby's editorial, "The Rolex Day-Date: A Complete Collector's Guide", Sotheby's]
* [https://italianwatchspotter.com/the-history-of-the-rolex-day-date/?lang=en Italian Watch Spotter editorial, "The History of the Rolex Day-Date", Italian Watch Spotter]
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/history-rolex-day-date-1956-present-president-watch-in-depth-review/ Monochrome editorial, "In-Depth: The History of the Rolex Day-Date, The Presidential Watch", Monochrome Watches]
* [https://watchbase.com/blog/2015/02/21/rolex-day-date-history WatchBase editorial, "Rolex Day-Date History", WatchBase, 2015-02-21]
* [https://www.beckertime.com/blog/review-the-rolex-day-date-ref-18078/ BeckerTime editorial, "Review: the Rolex Day-Date Ref. 18078", BeckerTime]

[[Category:Day-Date]]

Reference:1807

2026-09-29T08:46:30Z

Klaudiusz: Tighten 1807 production and variant wording

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex 1807 Day-Date}}
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex 1807 Day-Date — Bark-Finish President | Rolexopedia
|description=The 1807 is the bark-finish (écorce) 4-digit Day-Date: a coarse vertical texture on the bezel and on the President bracelet's center links, sibling to the fluted 1803 and Florentine 1806. 36mm 18k gold, caliber 1555/1556, 1960s into the 1970s.
|keywords=Rolex 1807, Day-Date, bark finish, écorce, President, 1803, 1806, 1811, caliber 1556, 18078
|image=Ref 1807 hero.webp
|image_alt=Rolex Day-Date 1807 in yellow gold with bark-finish bezel and bracelet
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|published_time=2026-06-07T16:23:38Z
|modified_time=2026-08-04T00:10:44Z
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
}}

<small>[[Reference:day-date|Day-Date]] › '''1807'''</small>

<div class="rp-lead">
[[File:Ref 1807 hero.webp|thumb|center|640px|alt=The 1807 in yellow gold: bark finish on the bezel and the President bracelet's center links, champagne stick dial.|The 1807 in yellow gold: bark finish on the bezel and the President bracelet's center links, champagne stick dial.]]
</div>

The 1807 is the bark-finish Day-Date. It shares the 4-digit President's case, movement and dial catalogue with the fluted [[Reference:1803|1803]] and differs in one thing: the gold carries a coarse vertical "bark" texture, écorce in French, across the bezel and the bracelet's center links. Rolex sold it through the 1960s and into the 1970s as one of a small group of decorated 4-digit references, next to the Florentine 1806 and the Morellis-finish 1811. The cited sources describe the bark finish as a period-specific alternative to fluting.

==Core facts==
{| class="wikitable rp-facts"
|-
! detail
! value
|-
| reference
| 1807
|-
| family
| Day-Date
|-
| production
| 1960s into the 1970s (4-digit era)
|-
| movement
| caliber 1555 (to c. 1965), then caliber 1556 to the end of the run; hacking from 1972; no quickset
|-
| case
| 36mm 18k gold President — yellow, white, pink/rose gold
|-
| crystal
| acrylic
|-
| bezel
| bark (écorce) finish
|-
| bracelet
| President with bark-finished center links
|-
| dial
| the 4-digit Day-Date catalogue (champagne and silver stick the volume choice; the same special dials offered on the 1803)
|-
| crown
| Twinlock screw-down
|-
| sibling references
| 1803 (fluted), 1804 (gem-set), 1806 (Florentine), 1811 (Morellis moiré)
|-
| predecessor
| originals-era 6610 / 6611 / 6612 cluster
|-
| successor
| 5-digit 18078, which carries the bark finish forward
|}

==Where it sits in the line==
The 4-digit Day-Date split by finish on a shared case and movement. The 1803 took the fluted bezel, the 1804 a gem-set one, the 1806 the fine Florentine hand-engraving, the 1811 the Morellis moiré, and the 1807 the coarser bark. Florentine and bark can be confused. On the 1807, the bark texture continues across the bezel and the bracelet's center links.

The remaining specifications are shared with the 1803: the 36mm gold case, President bracelet, caliber 1555/1556 movements, and broad dial catalogue. The bark finish is the defining distinction. The [[Reference:1803|1803]] entry carries the full dial taxonomy, the movement transition, and the President bracelet history for the whole 4-digit group.

==Production outline==
The bark finish ran through the 1960s and into the 1970s alongside the plain 1803. No Rolex production figure has surfaced. The auction record contains fewer bark and Florentine examples than fluted 1803 examples, but that sample does not establish factory output. Documented examples cover the span, from silver- and champagne-dialled yellow-gold pieces in the mid-1960s on the caliber 1555 to later ones into the early 1970s on the hacking caliber 1556.

==Movement notes==
The 1807 uses the same movement as the rest of the 4-digit Day-Date, caliber 1555 from the start of the run and caliber 1556 from around 1965. The 1556 raised the beat to 19,800 vph through a gear-train change, carrying over the free-sprung Microstella balance of the 1555; hacking seconds were added to the caliber mid-production in 1972. No 4-digit Day-Date has quickset, so the date and day advance only by running the hands through midnight. The [[Reference:Movements]] page holds the caliber lineage, and the [[Reference:1803|1803]] entry covers the 1555-to-1556 transition in detail.

==Dial map==
The 1807 came with the standard 4-digit Day-Date dials, champagne and silver with applied gold stick markers documented, and as a catalogue sibling of the 1803 it could be ordered with the same special dials. Documented bark examples include linen-textured Sigma dials and darker grey and Havana-brown dials set against the gold bark. The bark is what defines the reference; dial choice is shared across the group, and the [[Reference:1803|1803]] entry carries the variant taxonomy.

Export-market dials turn up in the record too: Antiquorum catalogued a circa-1968 example (case No. 2550819) with the day spelled out in Spanish at 12 o'clock, and a circa-1973 example (case No. 3384335) with ten baguette indexes on a dial signed for retailer Tiffany & Co.

==Case, bezel, crystal, and crown==
[[File:Ref 1807 bark detail.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=Bark écorce texture on a Rolex 1807 bezel and bracelet|The bark texture up close on a grey-dial 1807, running across the bezel and the bracelet center links.]]

The case is the 36mm three-piece gold Oyster shared across the 4-digit Day-Date, with a Twinlock screw-down crown, screw-down caseback and acrylic crystal. The defining feature is the bezel. In place of the 1803's fluting the 1807 carries a bark finish, a coarse vertical texture deeper and more irregular than the engine-turning on a Datejust and meant to resemble tree bark. It was made in yellow, white and pink gold to match the case.

==Bracelets, end links, and clasps==
The 1807 wears the President with the bark carried onto the bracelet's center links, so the texture runs from the bezel all the way down the bracelet. That full-length bark is what separates an 1807 from a watch that simply has a textured bezel. As with any vintage President, a clasp date code dates the bracelet, which may be older or newer than the head, and the [[Reference:Bracelets]] page holds the cross-family bracelet detail.

==Special branches==
===The bark family===
The 1807 belongs to a small group of textured 4-digit Day-Dates: the Florentine 1806, the bark 1807, and the Morellis 1811. These textured finishes were a 1960s fashion. The cited records contain fewer examples than the fluted 1803 records. The bark itself outlasted the 4-digit era and returned on the 5-digit [[Reference:18078|18078]].

===A white gold, blue-dial example===
[[File:Ref 1807 white gold blue dial.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=White gold bark-finish 1807 with a blue dial|A white gold bark-finish example with a blue dial, Christie's lot photography]]

Christie's Dubai, sale 21097 (2022), lot 222, catalogued a white gold bark-finish 1807 with a blue dial. The other examples cited here are yellow gold with champagne, silver, grey, or Havana-brown dials. The Christie’s lot documents the white-gold and blue-dial combination, but does not establish how often Rolex made it.

===Oman market examples===
Rolex fitted the Sultanate of Oman's Khanjar dagger emblem near 6 o'clock on watches sold into that market, a branch already documented on the 5-digit [[Reference:18078|18078]] and traceable back to this 4-digit reference. Antiquorum sold a yellow-gold Khanjar-marked 1807 (case No. 3351000, movement No. DD417164, circa 1972) at its Hong Kong sale in December 2021 for HKD 425,000, well above its HKD 290,000–390,000 estimate; the same watch, identified by matching case and movement numbers, returned to the block at Antiquorum Hong Kong in May 2022 and did not sell that time. A separate white-gold bark example (case No. 3657048, circa 1974) carries a dial signed for Sultan Qaboos bin Said Al Said, Oman's ruler from 1970 to 2020 — a personal presentation piece rather than the retailer-applied Khanjar mark, and one white-gold bark 1807 in the cited record; it went unsold against a CHF 30,000–50,000 estimate at Antiquorum's Geneva sale in May 2023.

==Auction record==
The cited auction record includes multiple bark 1807 examples from Antiquorum and other houses. Antiquorum alone has catalogued at least seven since 2019, across Geneva, Hong Kong, Monaco, and Milan. Prices for plain yellow-gold examples run from EUR 8,820 (Milan, April 2025, case No. 1325193, caliber 1555) to EUR 9,100 for a circa-1968 piece with the Spanish day disc described above (Monaco, July 2019, case No. 2550819). The retailer-signed Tiffany & Co. dial with baguette indexes made CHF 35,000 at Antiquorum's Geneva sale in May 2021 (case No. 3384335) — well above its CHF 18,000–28,000 estimate — though Antiquorum's own catalogue entry flags that watch's caseback as stamped 1803 rather than 1807, a documented instance of the case/reference mismatch this cluster of 4-digit references is prone to; the dial signature and sale still tie it to the 1807 line, but the case swap means it should not be read as a stock example of the reference's own case construction. The Oman-market pieces sit well above the general run, at HKD 425,000 (see above). Bracelet condition should be recorded separately: service work can replace bark centre links with plain links, and the cited lots differ in completeness and condition.

==Related references==
* [[Reference:1803|Day-Date 1803]], fluted President (1960–1977)
* [[Reference:1804|Day-Date 1804]]
* [[Reference:1806|Day-Date 1806]]
* [[Reference:1811|Day-Date 1811]]
* [[Reference:1831|Day-Date 1831]]
* [[Reference:6510|Day-Date 6510]], 1956–1957

See also the [[Reference:day-date|Day-Date family index]], [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|bracelet & clasp guide]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial numbers by year]].

== Sources ==
* ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' — Colin A. White, Morning Tundra
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/history-rolex-day-date-1956-present-president-watch-in-depth-review/ Monochrome editorial, "In-Depth: The History of the Rolex Day-Date, The Presidential Watch", Monochrome Watches]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/ Sotheby's editorial, "The Rolex Day-Date: A Complete Collector's Guide", Sotheby's]
* [https://www.fratellowatches.com/rolex-day-date-historical-overview-of-rolexs-flagship/ Fratello editorial, "Rolex Day-Date — Historical Overview Of Rolex's Flagship", Fratello Watches]
* [https://watchbase.com/blog/2015/02/21/rolex-day-date-history WatchBase editorial, "Rolex Day-Date History", WatchBase, 2015-02-21]
* [https://italianwatchspotter.com/the-history-of-the-rolex-day-date/?lang=en Italian Watch Spotter editorial, "The History of the Rolex Day-Date", Italian Watch Spotter]
* [https://www.thebeautifulwatch.com/blogs/news/a-brief-history-of-the-rolex-day-date The Beautiful Watch editorial, "A Brief History of the Rolex Day-Date", The Beautiful Watch]
* [https://www.rolexmagazine.com/2010/09/1956-very-first-rolex-day-date.html Jake Ehrlich, "1956 — The Very First Rolex Day-Date", Rolex Magazine (Jake's Rolex World), 2010-09]
* [https://ottuhr.com/index/rolex/day-date-president/rolex-day-date-1803/ Ottuhr editorial, "Rolex Day-Date 1803 Reference Report", Ottuhr]
* [https://www.rolexforums.com/showthread.php?t=679606 Rolex Forums community, "Rolex Forums — 1803 Presidential Unusual Finishes", Rolex Forums]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-1807-day-date-bark-finish-yellow-gold-lot-375-124 Rolex ref. 1807 Day-Date, bark finish, lot 124] — Antiquorum, Milan (online), 17 April 2025
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-1807-day-date-lot-322-256 Rolex ref. 1807 Day-Date, Spanish day disc, lot 256] — Antiquorum, Monaco, 16 July 2019
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-1807-day-date-lot-345-125 Rolex ref. 1807 Day-Date, Oman Khanjar emblem, lot 125] — Antiquorum, Hong Kong, 5 December 2021
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-1807-day-date-lot-360-403 Rolex ref. 1807 Day-Date, Sultan Qaboos bin Said Al Said signature, white gold, lot 403] — Antiquorum, Geneva, 15 May 2023
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-1807-stamped-1803-inside-the-caseback-day-date-lot-339-485 Rolex ref. 1807 bark-finish Day-Date, Tiffany & Co. dial, lot 485] — Antiquorum, Geneva, 9 May 2021

[[Category:Day-Date]]
[[Category:References]]

Reference:116500LN

2026-09-29T08:45:24Z

Klaudiusz: Move 116500LN price data and tighten comparison wording

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex 116500LN Daytona}}
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Daytona 116500LN, ceramic bezel, 2016–2023 | Rolexopedia
|description=The Rolex Cosmograph Daytona 116500LN is the 40mm steel Daytona made from 2016 until the 126500LN replaced it in 2023. It uses caliber 4130, a black Cerachrom tachymeter bezel, and white or black contrasting-subdial dials.
|keywords=Rolex, 116500LN, Daytona, Cosmograph, Panda, ceramic bezel, caliber 4130, reference guide
|image=Ref 116500LN hero.webp
|image_alt=116500LN Panda hero
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|published_time=2026-04-19T23:41:31Z
|modified_time=2026-08-04T00:06:59Z
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
}}

<small>[[Reference:daytona|Daytona]] › '''116500LN'''</small>

<div class="rp-lead">
[[File:Ref 116500LN hero.webp|thumb|center|640px|alt=Rolex Cosmograph Daytona 116500LN, black dial|Rolex Cosmograph Daytona 116500LN, black dial]]
</div>

The 116500LN is the 40mm steel Daytona made from 2016 until the 126500LN replaced it in 2023. It uses caliber 4130, a black Cerachrom tachymeter bezel, and contrasting white or black dials. The case and movement remain close to the preceding 116520; the bezel and dial treatment are the visible changes.

==Core facts==
{| class="wikitable rp-facts"
|-
! detail
! value
|-
| reference
| 116500LN
|-
| family
| Daytona
|-
| production
| 2016 to 2023; succeeded by 126500LN in March 2023
|-
| movement
| caliber 4130
|-
| case
| 40mm 904L Oystersteel, about 12.2mm thick, screw-down pushers
|-
| crystal
| sapphire, flat, no Cyclops
|-
| water resistance
| 100m
|-
| bezel
| Cerachrom monobloc ceramic, black tachymeter with platinum PVD numerals
|-
| bracelet
| Oyster with Oysterlock and Easylink 5mm toolless extension
|-
| lume
| Chromalight
|-
| dials
| white with black subdials ("Panda", 116500LN-0001) or black with grey-silver subdials (116500LN-0002)
|-
| predecessor
| 116520
|-
| successor
| 126500LN (40mm, caliber 4131)
|}

==Where it sits in the line==
[[File:Ref 116500LN generation-compare.webp|thumb|right|280px|alt=116500LN and 126500LN side by side|116500LN and 126500LN Panda side by side]]

The 116500LN replaced the 116520 after its sixteen-year run. Both use the 40mm steel case family and caliber 4130; the 116500LN changes to a black Cerachrom bezel and contrasting subdial layouts. The reference specification is separate from allocation and resale conditions.

At Baselworld 2016 Rolex presented the ceramic-bezel 116500LN alongside the existing steel-bezel model. The 116520 was then discontinued as the new reference reached the market; published histories do not give a long production overlap.

The 126500LN took over in March 2023 with the same ceramic bezel, a slightly thinner 11.9mm case, a reworked Oysterlock clasp, and the new caliber 4131. Rolex reshaped the bezel geometry around the platinum PVD numerals and thinned the subdial rings, but the reference stayed a 40mm steel ceramic Daytona. That leaves the 116500LN holding the older case proportions and the caliber 4130 Rolex had been refining since 2000, a combination now closed off by the end of production.

The 116500LN retains the earlier steel-case profile and unframed monobloc ceramic bezel. The 126500LN revised the lug and bezel geometry and added a metal bezel surround while remaining a 40mm steel Daytona.

The precious-metal siblings on the same case generation are the two-tone Rolesor 116503, the yellow gold 116508, and the white gold 116509, all three keeping engraved gold bezels while the parallel LN references carried Cerachrom. The 116500LN is the steel member of that generation and the first steel Daytona reference with a Cerachrom bezel.

==What changed from the 116520==
{| class="wikitable"
|-
! feature
! 116520
! 116500LN
|-
| bezel
| aluminum tachymeter, engraved and painted
| Cerachrom ceramic monobloc, platinum PVD numerals
|-
| tachymeter numerals
| straight-line geometry around the bezel
| shifted to a curved-axis layout for ceramic fitment
|-
| lume
| Super-LumiNova (green glow)
| Chromalight (blue glow)
|-
| dial
| white or black with colour-matched subdials on late production, and contrasting subdials on the 2000 launch
| white with black subdials, or black with grey-silver subdials, both contrasting throughout the run
|-
| case finishing
| brushed/polished contrast retained
| same, with Oystersteel 904L unchanged
|-
| movement
| caliber 4130
| caliber 4130, unchanged
|}

The 116500LN retains the 116520 case, caliber 4130, and bracelet architecture. The principal documented changes are the Cerachrom bezel, Chromalight, and contrasting subdial treatment.

==Production outline==
Published sources treat the 116500LN as one production generation. The two dial layouts, caliber 4130, Cerachrom bezel, and Oyster bracelet remain consistent; minor printing differences in collector photographs are not an established factory variant system.

Rolex introduced the 126500LN at Watches & Wonders Geneva in March 2023. Auction catalogues and reference histories therefore use 2023 as the end of the 116500LN production run; later retail deliveries do not establish later assembly.

==Movement notes==
[[File:Ref 116500LN movement.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=Caliber 4130 rotor side with Daytona engraving|Caliber 4130, rotor side]]

Rolex introduced caliber 4130 in 2000 on the 116520. It powered the steel Daytona through the 116500LN run, with a 72-hour reserve and the same core architecture.

The architecture uses a column wheel and vertical clutch with a stated 72-hour power reserve. The 116500LN uses the same caliber as the 116520 without a reference-specific movement change.

The 4130 replaced the Zenith-based caliber 4030 with a longer reserve, a full balance bridge, a free-sprung Microstella balance, and a Parachrom hairspring. Hodinkee also records construction details such as a hairspring protection block and playless chronograph-train gears. These are caliber features shared with the 116520, not 116500LN variant markers.

The 4131 succeeded it on the 126500LN, keeping the column wheel and vertical clutch and adding the Chronergy escapement Rolex had rolled across the three-hand sport lines through the late 2010s and early 2020s. The 4131 keeps the column wheel and vertical clutch and remains rated at roughly 72 hours; its escapement and other details differ from the 4130.

==Dial map==
===Panda (white dial)===
[[File:Ref 116500LN hero panda.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=116500LN Panda catalog press shot|The 116500LN-0001 Panda, catalog press shot]]

The 116500LN-0001 is the white-dial option. It has black snailed subdials at 3, 6, and 9, applied white-gold hour markers with Chromalight, and a red DAYTONA signature above six. There is no date display.

Panda is collector shorthand for a white face against contrasting dark subdials; Rolex does not use the term in its catalogues.

===Black dial===
The 116500LN-0002 is the black-dial option. Layout matches the Panda: three subdials at 6, 9, and 3, applied white-gold indices, no date. The subdials are finished in a silver-grey snailed treatment that reads as a softer contrast against the black base than the crisp black-on-white of the Panda. The DAYTONA signature stays red, and the minute track sits in white printing.

<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
File:Ref 116500LN hero black.webp|alt=116500LN black dial|Black-dial 116500LN
File:Ref 116500LN dial.webp|alt=Black-dial 116500LN macro|Black dial macro: lacquer base, silver-grey snailed subdials, red DAYTONA
</gallery>

The two dials are distinct catalogue options. Auction comparisons vary with condition, papers, and sale date.

===Dial printing drift===
Forum threads track small printing differences across the run on both dials. Slightly thinner font weight on some mid-run bottom-line text, minor spacing shifts in the lower half, and subtle subdial-texture variation all show up under macro lighting. None of it has hardened into a named variant, and no collector taxonomy for the 116500LN has formed. These observations remain descriptive; no named dial variant has been established for the run.

==Case, bezel, crystal, and crown notes==
===Case===
The case is 40mm in 904L Oystersteel, about 12.2mm thick, with brushed top surfaces and polished flanks. Lug-to-lug runs at roughly 47mm, unchanged from the 116520. The case dimensions and bracelet architecture remain close to the 116520, while the bezel material changes to Cerachrom.

===Bezel===
[[File:Ref 116500LN bezel.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=Panda 116500LN bezel macro|Monobloc Cerachrom: platinum PVD graduations on fired ceramic]]

The Cerachrom bezel is a monobloc ceramic ring with a moulded tachymeter scale. Platinum deposited by PVD forms the numerals and graduations. It replaces the aluminum insert used on the 116520.

Cerachrom reached the Daytona before this reference did. The Everose 116515LN carried a ceramic bezel from 2011 and the platinum 116506 from 2013. The 116500LN brought that bezel material to the steel Daytona for the first time.

The numeral geometry moved with the material. Aluminum-insert tachymeter scales sat on a flat radial layout; the 116500LN numerals follow a subtly curved axis matched to the ceramic's surface tension and firing tolerances. The difference is easiest to see when the two bezels are compared directly.

Ceramic resists ordinary scratching and colour change, but it can chip or crack under impact. Inspect the bezel for chips, cracks, and damaged numerals rather than assuming it is indestructible.

===Crystal===
Flat sapphire, and no Cyclops, because the Daytona carries no date. Thickness and radius match the 116520 exactly. Rolex's published documentation specifies no anti-reflective coating.

===Crown===
[[File:Ref 116500LN crown.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=Crown side of the 116500LN showing Triplock crown, guards and screw-down pushers|Crown side: Triplock crown, guards, screw-down pushers]]

Triplock screw-down with crown guards, rated with the case to 100m. The crown is dimensionally identical to the 116520's, carrying the Rolex coronet and the three dots that mark Triplock sealing.

===Pushers===
[[File:Ref 116500LN pushers.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=Panda 116500LN pusher-side macro|Screw-down pushers and the Triplock crown flank]]

The chronograph pushers are screw-down, as on the 116520 and earlier screw-down Daytona references. Their operation and travel are part of the watch-specific inspection.

==Bracelets, end links, clasps, and packaging notes==
===Bracelet===
Oyster, 20mm at the lugs, solid links throughout, with solid end links coded into the case. Measurement and construction are identical to the 116520 bracelet.

===Clasp===
The clasp is Oysterlock with Easylink. Oysterlock is the locking safety flap Rolex uses across the modern Professional line; Easylink is the toolless extension, a flip-out internal tab that adds five millimetres in a single step. The Glidelock on the ceramic Submariner adjusts continuously across a wider range. Easylink gives one fixed increment, less travel but faster to deploy on the wrist.

The cited bracelet specification remains the same between the 116520 and the 116500LN. The 126500LN reworked the clasp architecture, which leaves the 116500LN as the last Daytona on the older Oysterlock.

===Packaging===
Standard Rolex green box of the 2010s-2020s era with warranty card, Superlative Chronometer tag, booklets, and hang tags. Warranty format during the 116500LN run was the credit-card-style card rather than the earlier paper card. Full-set records may include the card, tag, and both booklets; 2016 examples can show transitional hang-tag formatting.

==Special editions==
[[File:Ref 116500LN asprey-red.webp|thumb|right|280px|alt=Asprey red-dial 116500LN|Asprey red-dial 116500LN limited edition]]

Antiquorum catalogued an Asprey-customised red-dial 116500LN in 2025 as part of a stated 25-piece series, with a customised dial and caseback. The lot is evidence of a retailer-linked presentation branch, not a Rolex catalogue variant. Other customised or double-signed examples need the same lot-specific documentation.

Other 116500LN watches surface with engraved casebacks for institutional customers or double-signed dials for retailer anniversaries. Those are personalisation on a standard watch, not distinct reference variants.

==Market and collector context==
Auction results and asking prices vary by date, condition, papers, and venue. They do not establish a fixed value for every 116500LN.

{| class="wikitable sortable"
|-
! Sale !! Lot !! Year !! Configuration !! Result / estimate
|-
| Phillips Geneva Sessions || 80 || 2026 || 2018 black dial, box and papers || CHF 24,130
|-
| Sotheby's New York || 535 || 2025 || circa-2016 black dial, box and papers || est. USD 15,000–25,000
|-
| Antiquorum Geneva || 788 || 2025 || Asprey red dial, stated 25-piece series || est. CHF 150,000–250,000
|}

[[File:Ref 116500LN wrist.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=Panda 116500LN on the wrist|The Panda on the wrist]]

Prices softened after the 2022 peak, with later records varying by dial, condition, and papers. The 116500LN is the last steel Daytona on caliber 4130 and the first steel Daytona with a Cerachrom bezel; those are reference facts, separate from market cycles.

The 126500LN replaced it in 2023 with caliber 4131 and revised case details. Auction comparisons should keep the two references separate.

==Related references==
* [[Reference:116508|Daytona 116508]], Yellow Gold, Cal 4130 (2016–2023)
* [[Reference:116505|Daytona 116505]], Everose Gold (2008–2023)
* [[Reference:116520|Daytona 116520]], Steel, Cal 4130 (2000–2016)
* [[Reference:116528|Daytona 116528]], 2000–2016
* [[Reference:116518|Daytona 116518]], 2000–2015
* [[Reference:16519|Daytona 16519]], White Gold Zenith (1989–2000)

See also the [[Reference:daytona|Daytona family index]], [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|bracelet & clasp guide]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial numbers by year]].

== Sources ==
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/225449 Reference 116500LN, Geneva Sessions Spring 2026 lot 80] (Phillips, 2026)
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2025/fine-watches-3/reference-116500ln-daytona-a-stainless-steel Reference 116500LN, lot 535] (Sotheby's, 2025)
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-116500-ln-cosmograph-daytona-lot-377-788 Asprey-customised 116500LN, lot 788] (Antiquorum, 2025)

* ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'', Colin A. White, Morning Tundra
* [https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-daytona-ref-116500ln-review Jack Forster, "A Week On The Wrist: The Rolex Daytona Ref. 116500LN", Hodinkee, 2020-01-01]
* [https://watchesbysjx.com/2016/03/introducing-the-rolex-daytona-in-steel-and-ceramic.html Richard Lee, "Introducing the Rolex Daytona in Steel with a Black Ceramic Bezel Ref. 116500LN", SJX Watches, 2016-03-16]
* [https://watchesbysjx.com/2016/06/prudent-meditations-on-the-rolex-daytona-ceramic.html Richard Lee, "Prudent Meditations on the Rolex Daytona Ceramic", SJX Watches, 2016-06-21]
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/rolex-daytona-116500ln-steel-cerachrom-black-bezel-live-photos-price/ Frank Geelen, "Rolex Daytona 116500LN in steel with Cerachrom black bezel Hands-On", Monochrome, 2016-03-17]
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/market-analysis-continous-insane-rise-in-price-of-the-rolex-daytona-116500ln/ Brice Goulard, "Market Analysis: Continuous Rise in Price of the Rolex Daytona 116500LN", Monochrome, 2021-03-05]
* [https://timeandtidewatches.com/rolex-daytona-ref-116500ln-review/ "Rolex Daytona ref. 116500LN review", Time+Tide, 2019-04-30]
* [https://www.fratellowatches.com/an-owners-review-of-the-rolex-daytona-116500ln-the-good-the-bad-and-the-ugly/ "An Owner Review Of The Rolex Daytona 116500LN", Fratello]
* [https://www.fratellowatches.com/new-rolex-daytona-2016-what-changed/ "New Rolex Daytona 2016 - What Changed", Fratello, 2016-01-01]
* [https://deployant.com/review-rolex-cosmograph-daytona-116500ln/ Nick Gould, "Review: Rolex Cosmograph Daytona 116500LN", Deployant, 2016-04-12]
* [https://www.ablogtowatch.com/the-definitive-guide-to-the-2023-steel-rolex-daytona-watch-vs-previous-116500ln-version/ "The Definitive Guide To The 2023 Steel Rolex Daytona Watch Vs Previous 116500LN Version", aBlogtoWatch, 2023-01-01]
* [https://oracleoftime.com/price-performance-the-rolex-daytona-cosmograph-ref-116500ln-in-2021/ "The Price Performance of the Rolex Daytona Cosmograph Ref. 116500LN in 2021", Oracle Time, 2021-12-11]
* [https://oracleoftime.com/unusual-purple-rolex-daytona-up-for-sale-at-sothebys-fine-watches-online-auction/ "Unusual Purple Rolex Daytona up for Sale at Sothebys", Oracle Time, 2023-12-04]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-116500-ln-cosmograph-daytona-lot-377-788 "Rolex Ref. 116500LN Cosmograph Daytona made by Asprey, red dial, limited edition of 25", Antiquorum Geneva, 2025-05-01]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-116500-ln-cosmograph-daytona-lot-377-790 "Rolex Ref. 116500LN Cosmograph Daytona unique piece made by Asprey, purple dial", Antiquorum Geneva, 2025-05-01]
* [https://www.lot-art.com/auction-lots/Asprey-Reference-116500LN-Daytona-Retailed-by-Asprey-A-unique/339-asprey_116500ln_116500ln-13.12.24-sotheby "Asprey Reference 116500LN Daytona, yellow dial, unique piece, case 1/1", Sotheby's, 2024-12-13]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2019/the-rolex-daytona-capsule-collection/rolex-daytona-ref-116500ln-a-stainless-steel-2 "Rolex Daytona 116500LN A Stainless Steel Capsule Collection 2019 Lot 2", Sotheby's, 2019-01-01]
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/26687/lot/72/ "Rolex 116500LN Black Dial December 2021 Lot 72", Bonhams, 2021-12-01]
* [https://www.watchcollectinglifestyle.com/home/insider-rolex-cosmograph-daytona-cerachrom-bezel-ref-116500ln-hands-on-with-the-hottest-watch-of-the-summer-of-2016-already-selling-above-retail "Insider: Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Cerachrom Bezel ref. 116500LN", Watch Collecting Lifestyle, 2016-01-01]
* [https://www.bobswatches.com/rolex-blog/watch-review/rolex-daytona-116500-watch-review-guide.html "Rolex Daytona 116500LN Ultimate Collectors Guide", Bob's Watches]
* [https://www.watchguys.com/pages/rolex-daytona-panda-116500-vs-126500 "116500 vs 126500 Comparison", WatchGuys]
* [https://wristaficionado.com/blogs/news/the-ultimate-rolex-panda-daytona-buyer-s-guide-in-2025 Ripley Sellers, "The Ultimate Rolex Panda Daytona Buyer Guide in 2025", Wrist Aficionado, 2024-05-13]
* [https://rolexforums.com/showthread.php?t=917431 "My few words on the 116500LN", RolexForums]
* [https://www.rolexforums.com/showthread.php?t=551788 "116500LN White or Black?", RolexForums]
* [https://www.rolexforums.com/showthread.php?t=560860 "116500LN Supply and Availability", RolexForums]

[[Category:Daytona]]

Reference:2574

2026-09-29T08:44:17Z

Klaudiusz: Remove 2574 price clutter and tighten originality wording

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex 2574 Oyster Perpetual}}
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Oyster Perpetual 2574 — Production, Dials & Serial Ranges | Rolexopedia
|description=The 2574 is a pre-war manual-wind Oyster documented from 1936 into the early 1940s in 29–30 mm steel and gold cases, with small Aegler movements and Royal, Royalite, Observatory and Imperial dial signatures.
|keywords=Rolex, 2574, Oyster, specifications, reference guide
|image=Ref 2574 hero.webp
|image_alt=Rolex Oyster Royalite 2574 1943
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|published_time=2026-04-17T22:14:01Z
|modified_time=2026-09-14T14:06:01Z
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
}}

<small>Oyster → '''2574'''</small>

<div class="rp-lead">
[[File:Ref 2574 hero.webp|thumb|center|640px|alt=Royalite Observatory 24-hour dial, c.1943|Royalite Observatory 24-hour dial, c.1943]]
</div>

The 2574 is a pre-war manual-wind Oyster produced from at least 1936 through the early 1940s in a 29–30 mm case. This is a "boy's size" watch in the period vocabulary. Two details set it apart from the broader pre-war Oyster population: a 9¾-ligne movement running 17 or 18 jewels depending on the example, and the reference number engraved on the ''outside'' of the caseback. The dial is signed "Rolex Oyster Royal," "Rolex Oyster Royalite," "Rolex Oyster Observatory," or "Rolex Oyster Imperial," all drawn from Rolex's late-1930s sub-brand vocabulary, and surfaced examples carry both center-seconds (sweep) and sub-seconds dial layouts. Documented cases run in both stainless steel and 9ct/9K gold, and at least one example carries the retail signature of P. Orr & Sons, the Madras and Rangoon jeweler that sold Rolex across colonial India and Burma.

<span id="core-facts"></span>
==Core facts==
{| class="wikitable rp-facts"
|-
! detail
! value
|-
| reference
| 2574
|-
| family
| Oyster (pre-war manual-wind)
|-
| production
| at least 1936 into the early 1940s (Christie's earliest documented example carries 1936 Glasgow import hallmarks; exact endpoints undocumented)
|-
| case material
| stainless steel and 9ct/9K gold, both documented at auction
|-
| case diameter
| 29–30 mm ("boy's size")
|-
| case construction
| three-body Oyster, polished, screw-down crown
|-
| lug style
| soldered lugs, era-typical
|-
| bezel
| smooth, polished
|-
| caseback signature
| reference engraved on the OUTER caseback (unusual for the era)
|-
| movement
| Cal. 9¾′′′ manual-wind, 17 or 18 jewels depending on example, sweep or sub-seconds
|-
| escapement
| straight-line lever, Rolex Patent Superbalance, self-compensating Breguet hairspring
|-
| dial signature
| "Rolex Oyster Royal" or "Rolex Oyster Observatory"
|-
| hand variants
| leaf or baton, both era-typical
|}

<span id="where-it-sits-in-the-line"></span>
==Where it sits in the line==
[[File:Ref 2574 alt-hero.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=1936 Imperial Chronometer 9k gold|1936 Imperial Chronometer 9k gold variant]]
The 2574 belongs to the small pre-war Oyster group that sits between the earliest 1920s and 1930s Oysters and the wartime platform watches. Its closest sibling is the 2595. Both show what Rolex treated as the smaller end of the men's catalog in the late 1930s. Period material does use the "boy's size" language, but that still meant a legitimate men's watch in its own time.

Rolex sold the 2574 through its usual network of overseas retailers as well as directly. Sotheby's has catalogued an example signed by P. Orr & Sons of Madras and Rangoon, a jeweler that retailed Rolex across colonial India and Burma. This lot documents one overseas retail channel.

By the time 2574 production ended, the Oyster catalog had moved on. The rotor-driven Oyster Perpetual, launched in 1931 on the Bubbleback references, had become Rolex’s main self-winding platform, while wartime platform references carried more of the production. Manual-wind Oysters continued into the late 1940s and early 1950s (the Speedking 4220 runs from 1941 through the early 1950s), but the pre-war Royal/Observatory configuration did not survive the war intact. The surviving records place the 2574 within a short-lived pre-war manual-wind Oyster category.

<span id="what-distinguishes-it"></span>
==What distinguishes it==
Two details set the 2574 apart. First, some examples carry the reference engraving on the outside of the caseback instead of inside, which is unusual enough to help with authentication. Second, the watch uses a smaller 9¾-ligne Aegler movement running 17 or 18 jewels depending on the example — the Christie's gold example's movement is signed "Rolex Ultra Prima," the top grade in Rolex's mid-1930s Prima naming family — and that caliber appears on the 2574 in two distinct dial layouts.

The 2574 exists in two dial layouts. A center-seconds dial (also called sweep seconds, centre-seconds, or seconde au centre) carries a single long seconds hand pivoting from the center of the dial, alongside the hour and minute hands. A sub-seconds dial (also called small seconds, petite seconde, or sub-dial seconds) carries a separate small register, usually at six o'clock, with its own short seconds hand running on its own pinion. The two layouts require different gear-train configurations downstream of the fourth wheel and are not interchangeable on a finished movement.

On the 2574 both configurations appear among documented examples. The 1943 Royalite Observatory shown above is a center-seconds layout; the 1936 Imperial Chronometer is a sub-seconds layout. Whether early production ran sub-seconds and later production switched to center-seconds, or whether both were offered concurrently, the surfaced sample is too thin to settle. What the dial layout does establish is a quick authentication check: a 9¾-ligne caliber paired with the wrong dial layout for that movement variant points either to a service replacement or to a misidentified reference.

Neither feature is unique to the 2574 in absolute terms. External case engravings appear on other obscure references, and the 9¾ caliber shows up elsewhere in Rolex's late-1930s small-case catalog. Their combination in a 29.5 mm boy's-size steel Oyster is what makes the 2574 specific.

<span id="the-royal-observatory-dial-question"></span>
==The Royal / Observatory dial question==
Two dial signatures are documented on the 2574, both period-correct and both Rolex-applied rather than retailer double-signatures. "Royal" is the more common of the two, part of a late-1930s Rolex dial vocabulary (alongside "Viceroy," "Imperial," and similar names) that ran across the 2280 (1939–1946), 2595 (1938–1941), 3116 (1940–1944), and others. On a 2574, "Royal" is the baseline.

'Observatory' on the 2574 is period marketing language. The watch carries identical hardware whether the dial reads Royal or Observatory; no certification stands behind the word "Observatory."

<span id="case-and-construction"></span>
==Case and construction==
[[File:Ref 2574 caseback.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=Royalite caseback|Royalite caseback]]
The 2574 is a three-piece Oyster with a case of about 29.5mm, at the small end of the period men's range.

Lugs are soldered to the case rather than integral-cast or spring-bar-drilled. This is the default late-1930s Oyster construction and is consistent across the 2574 population in the surfaced record. The lugs on a 2574 are narrower than on a 32–34 mm men's Oyster of the same period, proportional to the smaller case. Period strap fit is 14–15 mm at the lugs.

The bezel is smooth and polished, matching the case finish. No engine-turned or decorative bezel variants are documented on the 2574. The decorated-bezel treatments Rolex used on the 3359 Viceroy and similar late-1930s references are not part of the 2574 catalog.

Case material runs in both stainless steel and gold. Christie's catalogued a 9K gold example (Hong Kong, 2003) signed "Rolex Oyster Imperial Chronometre" with import hallmarks for Glasgow 1936, and Gardiner Houlgate catalogued a separate 9ct gold example in 2023. Steel examples are documented at Sotheby's (case no. 126'820, retailed by P. Orr & Sons) and Clevedon Salerooms (case no. 116765). The reference was not a steel-only production; a buyer chose steel or gold the way they would on most of Rolex's late-1930s Oyster catalog. Any gold-cased watch offered as a 2574 on the modern dealer market still warrants verification against the movement specification and the caseback engraving, the same as any other pre-war Rolex.

<span id="the-movement"></span>
==The movement==
The 2574 uses a small pre-Perpetual Aegler movement with Superbalance finishing, running 17 or 18 jewels depending on the specific example, in two variants distinguished by their seconds-train configuration. The center-seconds variant carries an extended fourth-wheel pinion and an indirect-drive sweep seconds hand on the centre. The sub-seconds variant uses the standard fourth-wheel-at-six configuration and reads through a small register at six o'clock. Both run at 18,000 vph, both carry the same Superbalance with self-compensating Breguet overcoil hairspring, and both are rhodium-plated.

The period naming is messy. Rolex catalog and service material from the 1930s and 1940s does not use a single consistent term for either layout, and dealer descriptions still alternate between "centre seconds," "sweep seconds," and "centre-seconds" for the first layout and "small seconds," "sub-seconds," and "petite seconde" for the second. The synonyms refer to the same two architectures.

The 2574 predates later Incabloc and KIF shock-protection systems. Its Superbalance addresses rate stability rather than shock protection. The watch should be handled as a pre-shock-protection movement.

<span id="dial-and-hand-variants"></span>
==Dial and hand variants==
[[File:Ref 2574 dial-detail.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=Imperial Chronometer dial sub-seconds register|Imperial Chronometer dial: sub-seconds register, applied numerals]]
Documented dial signatures on the 2574 include "Royal," "Royalite," "Observatory," and "Imperial," paired with both center-seconds and sub-seconds layouts on a silvered base. The center-seconds dials carry a single long seconds hand from the dial centre. The sub-seconds dials carry a small register at six o'clock with its own short seconds hand. The Imperial Chronometer dial-detail shown above is the sub-seconds layout; the Royalite Observatory hero is the center-seconds layout.

A documented configuration is a silvered dial with applied baton hour markers, “Rolex Oyster Royal” text and sweep seconds. It is consistent with the late-1930s dress-Oyster format. A less common variant substitutes printed Arabic numerals, on both Royal and Observatory dials, still with sweep seconds. Luminous radium dials with Arabic numerals and matching luminous hands appear on Royal-signed examples; radium-filled configurations on the 2574 tend to show heavy age-darkening, and cleanly white radium plots on a 2574 are a sign of restoration.

Documented hand configurations include leaf, baton and, on radium-dial examples, luminous-filled pencil or spade hands. Blued steel leaf hands appear on the cited original-dial Royal examples. Matched patina between dial printing, lume, and hands supports a period-original set; mismatched aging is one sign of a possible service replacement.

<span id="auction-and-dealer-record"></span>
==Auction and dealer record==
The cited auction record is small but includes a Sotheby’s lot and a Christie’s lot. Sotheby's sold a steel example retailed by P. Orr & Sons of Madras and Rangoon at its 2023 Fine Watches sale (estimate USD 3,000–5,000, cream dial, 17-jewel caliber, no box or papers). Christie's sold a 9K gold example at its Hong Kong Important Watches sale in 2003 for HKD 20,315 against a HKD 7,000–10,000 estimate — the movement signed "Rolex Ultra Prima," 18 jewels, with Glasgow import hallmarks dating the piece to 1936. Two smaller UK salerooms round out the record: Gardiner Houlgate sold a 9ct gold example for GBP 750 in 2023, and Clevedon Salerooms sold a steel example for GBP 550 in 2025, the latter fitted with a later replacement bracelet.

The cited record includes Royal-signed steel examples with baton or Arabic dials; Observatory-signed examples are fewer in the sources reviewed. The cited results span GBP 550 to a USD 5,000 estimate. They cover different materials, conditions and venues, and do not establish a current price range.

<span id="collecting-considerations"></span>
==Collecting considerations==
The outer-caseback reference engraving is one useful authentication check. It should be legible without looking newly cut; decades of wear can soften it, while unworn examples may retain crisper text. Extremely sharp or machine-perfect engraving is a warning sign, either a recent re-engraving on a worn caseback or a replacement caseback with modern work. Extremely soft or shallow engraving is compatible with heavy wear but should be cross-checked against the interior caseback for consistent period signatures.

The movement specification is the clearest cross-check when the engraving is ambiguous. A 2574 should carry a 9¾-ligne Aegler movement with Superbalance and Breguet overcoil, running 17 or 18 jewels, in either the center-seconds or sub-seconds variant. A 10½′′′ caliber, a 15-jewel specification, or a dial layout that does not match the gear-train configuration of the movement variant present points either to a service replacement (possible on any 80-year-old watch) or to a misidentified reference. Because both layouts exist on documented 2574 examples, the dial layout alone cannot disqualify a candidate; the layout has to match what the movement underneath was built to drive.

The cited sources do not establish how many surviving 2574 dials were refinished. Originality should be assessed from printing, lume or radium ageing, hand matching and movement fitment, ideally with specialist comparison.

The auction table records GBP 550 and GBP 750 at the two UK salerooms, a USD 3,000–5,000 estimate at Sotheby’s and HKD 20,315 at Christie’s. These are individual results, not a valuation guide.

A 29.5 mm case is small by modern wrist-sizing conventions. The period “boy’s size” label describes the catalogue category; the case dimensions and strap fit are the practical points for an individual watch.

==Related references==
* [[Reference:2136|Oyster Perpetual 2136]]
* [[Reference:3139|Oyster Perpetual 3139]], 1938–1947
* [[Reference:3359|Oyster Perpetual 3359]], 1934–1946
* [[Reference:4220|Oyster Perpetual 4220]]
* [[Reference:5701|Oyster Perpetual 5701]], 1959–1988

See also the [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|bracelet & clasp guide]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial numbers by year]].

== Sources ==
* ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' — Colin A. White, Morning Tundra
* [https://rolexopedia.net/wiki/Research:Early_Oyster_References Rolexopedia early Oyster reference index]
* [https://www.vintagewatchstraps.com/blogoystercase.php VintageWatchStraps (David Boettcher) — Rolex Oyster Case, Hermetic, Submarine research] — David Boettcher, vintagewatchstraps.com
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2023/fine-watches-2/rolex-reference-2574-oyster-retailed-by-p-orr-sons Sotheby's — Reference 2574 Oyster retailed by P. Orr & Sons, Fine Watches 2023]
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-4085720 Christie's — 9K gold Rolex Oyster Imperial Chronometre ref. 2574, Hong Kong 2003]
* [https://auctions.gardinerhoulgate.co.uk/catalogue/lot/6d6146ddd9378b1b89355b91ebc790eb/63b778f7668dabe928d3800924a99077/watches-jewellery-for-christmas-lot-27/ Gardiner Houlgate — Rolex Oyster Chronometre ref. 2574, 2023]
* [https://www.clevedonsalerooms.com/auction/lot/lot-50---rolex---boys-oyster-stainless-steel-bracelet-watch-ref-2574/?lot=53678&sd=1 Clevedon Salerooms — Rolex Boy's Oyster ref. 2574, 2025]

[[Category:Oyster]]

Reference:5504

2026-09-29T08:41:42Z

Klaudiusz: Tighten 5504 evidence and authentication wording

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex 5504 Air-King}}
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex 5504 Air-King — 36mm Explorer-Case Super Precision | Rolexopedia
|description=The 5504 is the 36mm Explorer-case Air-King — 1957/58 to 1963/64, Cal 1530, "Super Precision" dial, the connective tissue between the 5500 (34mm) and the 1016 Explorer (36mm). 3-6-9 Explorer dial with AIR-KING text. Tropical, honeycomb, and underline-transitional sub-variants documented at major auction.
|keywords=Rolex, 5504, Air-King, Super Precision, Cal 1530, 1016 Explorer sister, 3-6-9 dial
|image=Ref 5504 hero.webp
|image_alt=Rolex 5504 Air-King 36mm
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|published_time=2026-05-02T03:26:37Z
|modified_time=2026-08-04T00:12:48Z
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
}}

<small>[[Reference:air-king|Air-King]] › '''5504'''</small>

<div class="rp-lead">
[[File:Ref 5504 hero.webp|thumb|center|640px|alt=Rolex Air-King 5504, 36mm, cream waffle-textured dial with Arabic 3/6/9 numerals and arrowhead indices, "Air-King" / "Super Precision" text, Oyster bracelet|Rolex Air-King 5504, 36mm, cream waffle-textured dial with Arabic 3/6/9 numerals and arrowhead indices, "Air-King" / "Super Precision" text, Oyster bracelet]]
</div>

The 5504 is the 36mm version of the Air-King. It launches in 1957 alongside the 34mm 5500 and runs roughly through 1963/64 — about seven years of parallel production where Rolex offered the Air-King in two case sizes side by side. The 5504 wears the same case architecture as the 1016 Explorer and the 6610 that precedes it: 36mm steel Oyster, smooth bezel, acrylic crystal, Cal 1530. What separates the 5504 from its 1016 sister is dial text and chronometer status. The 1016 says EXPLORER on the dial and runs a chronometer-rated Cal 1560/1570; the 5504 says AIR-KING and runs a non-chronometer Cal 1530. Robb Report's framing is exact: "the 36mm Air-King 5504 was basically an Explorer I with a different dial and hands."

The larger case and Cal 1530 connect it to both the 5500 Air-King and the contemporary Explorer. Originality needs particular care on examples with 3-6-9 dials. One specialist dealer asserts that gilt 3-6-9 Explorer-dial 5504s were produced only in 1958 — implying that later-cased 3-6-9 5504s started life as standard AIR-KING dials and got Explorer-dial swaps during service. Other dealers don't corroborate the strict 1958 cutoff. The strict 1958 cutoff remains unconfirmed.

<span id="core-facts"></span>

==Core facts==
{| class="wikitable rp-facts"
|-
! detail
! value
|-
| reference
| 5504
|-
| family
| Air-King
|-
| common descriptions
| “36mm Air-King,” “Explorer-case Air-King,” and “Super Precision 5504” appear in secondary sources
|-
| production
| 1957 or 1958 launch, with documented examples through the early 1960s; sources differ on the exact start and end year
|-
| case
| 36mm × ~43mm L2L stainless steel Oyster, smooth bezel (Watch-Wiki and one specialist-dealer source instead give 35mm)
|-
| crystal
| acrylic plexiglass, domed
|-
| crown
| Twinlock screw-down
|-
| movement
| Cal 1530, automatic, 25 → 26 jewels (running update), 18,000 vph, ~44h reserve, butterfly rotor, Breguet overcoil
|-
| chronometer
| no; "SUPER PRECISION" dial text (rare "PRECISION" examples on lower-grade-adjusted movements)
|-
| dial text
| “AIR-KING” with “SUPER PRECISION” in cited examples; some later examples use “OYSTER PERPETUAL AIR-KING” and “PRECISION”
|-
| bracelet
| 19mm Oyster; period-correct 7205 rivet (early) → 7206 rivet (mid-1960s) with 58 or 80 end-links; later service 78360
|-
| caseback
| screw-down threaded Oyster
|-
| sister
| 5500 (34mm same Cal 1530; the long-run classic Air-King) and 1016 Explorer (36mm same case envelope, EXPLORER text, chronometer-rated Cal 1560 then 1570)
|-
| predecessor
| 6610 Explorer (1955–59, Cal 1030, same 36mm case architecture)
|-
| successor
| line absorbed into 5500 + 1016 by 1964; no direct 5504 successor
|}

<span id="where-it-sits-in-the-line"></span>
==Where it sits in the line==
The 5504 can be compared with the Air-King, Explorer and other steel-sport references because it shares parts of their case and movement history. From the Air-King line: the 5504 is the 36mm counterpart to the 5500, running in parallel from 1957/58 through 1963/64. From the Explorer line: the 5504 wears the 1016 Explorer's case envelope, the 6610's 36mm Cal 1030 architecture brought up to Cal 1530, and the dial-language conventions that define the Explorer family — except for the AIR-KING text. From the steel-sport line: the 5504 shares its Cal 1530 architecture with the early 5512/5513 Submariner, the mid-1960s 5500 production, and the early 1016.

Rolex's late-1950s catalogue offered the AIR-KING name at two case sizes and the EXPLORER name at one. The 34mm 5500 and 36mm 5504 used non-chronometer Air-King movements, while the 1016 Explorer used a chronometer-rated caliber. The 1016 Explorer ran in parallel at the same 36mm case size with chronometer certification and the EXPLORER name, addressing buyers who wanted the technical specification rather than the catalogue tier. Marcus Siems' regional reading suggests the 5504 was dual-marketed: black-dial Explorer-style examples to the UK market, brighter-dial Air-King-style examples to Canada — same reference, different positioning per geography.

The architectural relationship to the 1016 is close enough that some collectors treat the 5504 as a dial-swap candidate by default. A 5504 with a 3-6-9 Explorer dial and Mercedes hands is mechanically indistinguishable from a 1016 except for the dial text and the movement caliber — and even the caliber distinction (Cal 1530 vs Cal 1560/1570) requires opening the caseback. Authentication on a 3-6-9 5504 has to lean hard on the dial-side originality verification rather than on case or bracelet evidence.

The 5504 retires by 1963/64 as the Cal 1530 phases out across the broader Rolex line. The 5500 absorbs the Air-King name forward; the 1016 carries the 36mm Explorer line forward. The 5504 has no direct successor — Rolex's catalogue moved past the dual-case-size Air-King strategy and consolidated on the 5500 alone for the 34mm Air-King through 1989.

<span id="production-outline"></span>
==Production outline==
The launch year is contested. Rescapement and Marcus Siems' secondary attribution read 1957; Marcus Siems' primary attribution and Robb Report read 1958. The earliest documented 5504 examples cluster at 1957/58 serials — Sotheby's 2020 lot 364 (case 372,245) is dated c.1958, and Eric Wind's documented 5504 examples sit in the 371,xxx case range with 1958 attribution. 1957/58 is the launch window rather than a single year. The reference launches alongside the 5500 in the broader 1957 Air-King catalogue refresh.

The retirement is firmer at 1963/64. Documented examples cluster at serial 949,xxx (mid-1963), and Marcus Siems cites case numbers in the 950,xxx range as late-production. No 5504 dated post-1964 has surfaced in the auction record. The retirement is driven by the Cal 1530 phase-out across the Rolex catalogue — Aggregator coverage of the Cal 1530 transition dates the changeover beginning 1963, and the 5504 rolls off in the same window. The 5500 absorbs the Air-King line forward.

No factory production total is published. The auction and dealer record reviewed here contains fewer 5504 examples than the long-running 5500, but that observation does not establish a production ratio.

<span id="movement-notes"></span>
==Movement notes==
The 5504 runs Cal 1530 — the same caliber that powers the early 5500 production, the early 1016 Explorer, the early 5512/5513 Submariner, and the broader steel-sport line through the early 1960s. 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz), approximately 44 hour power reserve, butterfly rotor, Breguet overcoil hairspring. Jewel count is 25 in the early production and 26 in later examples (running update across the line, consistent with the Cal 1530 generation as a whole). The full caliber breakdown lives at [[Reference:5500#movement-notes|the 5500 movement notes]].

Dial text on most 5504s reads "SUPER PRECISION" — the Cal-1530-era marketing tier that sits below the chronometer-rated OYSTER PERPETUAL OFFICIALLY CERTIFIED CHRONOMETER text the 1016 Explorer carried. Some 5504s carry the simpler "PRECISION" designation, typically on movements adjusted to a lower grade. The 5504's "Super Precision" line is the most-cited example of the Air-King-era marketing distinction: the same Cal 1530 movement, adjusted to the same Bienne or Geneva Observatory standard, gets either chronometer paperwork (1016 → "OFFICIALLY CERTIFIED CHRONOMETER" dial) or sub-chronometer paperwork (5504 → "SUPER PRECISION" dial). The mechanical hardware is the same; the catalogue tier is different.

A small number of late-production 5504 examples are catalogued with Cal 1560 in dealer copy, which notes both Cal 1530 and Cal 1560 across the run. This may reflect service-replacement movements rather than factory-original Cal 1560 5504s — the Cal 1560 is the chronometer-rated 1016 Explorer caliber, and a 5504 with an original Cal 1560 movement would be unusual. A documented Cal-1560 5504 is suspect for service-replacement until factory documentation surfaces.

The 5504 was never COSC chronometer rated. Even the Super Precision examples carry the "Super Precision" line rather than the chronometer text, and no 5504 is documented in the auction record with the Officially Certified Chronometer designation.

<span id="case-and-construction"></span>
==Case and construction==
[[File:Ref 5504 case profile.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=Rolex Air-King 5504 case profile showing lug shape, crown, and domed acrylic crystal|Case profile: lug shape, Twinlock crown, domed acrylic crystal]]
36mm × approximately 43mm L2L stainless steel three-piece Oyster — case middle, threaded caseback, threaded crown. Watch-Wiki's Air-King history reads the case smaller, describing the 5504 as a "larger 35 mm Air-King for export markets" rather than 36mm; one specialist-dealer listing gives the same 35mm figure. The 1016 Explorer case-architecture match and the documented 19mm-lug bracelet fitments support the 36mm reading, although published measurements differ. The case envelope is shared with the 1016 Explorer and the preceding 6610 Explorer; the 5504's distinctness from those references is dial-side and movement-side rather than case-side. Lug width is 19mm, consistent with the 1016 Explorer / 5500 / 6610 architecture and with the documented period-correct bracelet fitments (7205, 7206, later 78360). Some sources read the 5504's lugs as 20mm — Robb Report and one specialist-dealer listing both note 20mm — but the bracelet-evidence (7206 rivet with 58 end-links is a 19mm fitment, documented on Eric Wind's documented 5504) reads firmly at 19mm. The cited 20mm measurement conflicts with the documented 19mm bracelet fitment and should be treated as an unresolved measurement discrepancy.

The case is steel-only across the production. No precious-metal, gold-capped, or two-tone 5504 surfaces in the auction record. The bezel is fixed and steel and smooth across all surfaced examples — no coin-edge or fluted bezel variant is documented. The crystal is acrylic plexiglass, domed; sapphire-crystal arrives on the Air-King line only with the 14000 in 1989, well after the 5504's retirement.

The crown is Twinlock screw-down — the two-gasket sealed crown patent Rolex introduced in 1953 and standardized across the steel-sport line through the late 1950s. Drilled lugs are present on early 5504 production, consistent with the broader 19mm-lug Rolex sport convention through the 1980s.

<span id="dial-map"></span>
==Dial map==
Six dial configurations are documented in auction catalogues and dealer listings. The 3-6-9 Explorer-style dials attract particular collector interest.

<span id="silvered-superprecision"></span>
===Silvered AIR-KING SUPER PRECISION===
[[File:Ref 5504 dial.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=Rolex Air-King 5504 silvered dial, applied baton indices, "AIR-KING" and "SUPER PRECISION" text|Silvered AIR-KING SUPER PRECISION dial, applied baton indices]]

Documented silvered satin or sunburst dials use applied baton markers, alpha hands and “AIR-KING” with “SUPER PRECISION” text. This is one recurring configuration in the cited records.

<span id="black-gilt-airking"></span>
===Black gilt AIR-KING SUPER PRECISION===
Glossy black lacquer ground with gilt printing, applied silvered indices, gilt minuterie chapter ring, "Swiss" only at six (no "T" tritium designation — period-correct for radium-era examples). A black gilt Air-King dial is documented in specialist-dealer records, including a circa-1963 example. The cited sources do not establish a general price premium.

<span id="3-6-9-explorer-airking"></span>
===3-6-9 Explorer dial with AIR-KING text===
The Explorer-style 5504 configuration. Black or gilt ground with 3-6-9 Arabic numerals at three / six / nine, baton or dagger indices at the other hours, Mercedes-style hour and minute hands. AIR-KING text on the dial rather than EXPLORER. It shares the 1016's 3-6-9 visual layout, but the AIR-KING text and caliber 1530 distinguish it from a 1016.

One specialist source asserts that gilt 3-6-9 Explorer-dial 5504s were produced only in 1958 and proposes that later-cased examples may have received Explorer-style dials during service. Other dealers do not corroborate the strict 1958 cutoff. Both readings are on the public record. This is a documented special configuration, but the production-window dispute remains unresolved. Provenance papers and case-and-dial-period checks are useful when assessing an individual example.

<span id="honeycomb-gilt"></span>
===Honeycomb / clous-de-Paris gilt===
Eric Wind documents a 1958-cased 5504 with a honeycomb (clous-de-Paris) finely-textured gilt dial, paired with a 1966 7206 rivet bracelet on 58 end-links. The honeycomb 5504 sits in the same dial-finish family as the contemporary 6305 Datejust, the 6202 Turn-O-Graph, and the 6298 Bubbleback honeycomb examples. The source also warns that honeycomb dials may be service replacements.

<span id="tropical-chocolate"></span>
===Tropical chocolate-gilt===
Dealer records describe gilt black dials with brown ageing. Dial condition, printing and applied markers need to be checked on each example; the cited sources do not establish a general market ranking.

<span id="underline-transitional"></span>
===Underline transitional dial===
A short-window radium-to-tritium changeover variant from approximately 1962 to 1964. A small horizontal line printed under the model text indicates the luminous material changed from radium to tritium. A documented 1963 5504 carries an underline + tropical chocolate gilt + chapter ring + Swiss-only configuration — the convergence of three rare features on a single example. The cited sources do not establish a separate price rule for underline examples.

<span id="bracelets-end-links-and-clasps"></span>
==Bracelets, end-links, and clasps==
19mm Oyster across the production. Period-correct delivery configurations: 7205 rivet with end-link 57 or 58 on early 5504s through the early 1960s; 7206 rivet with end-link 58 or 80 on mid-1960s production. Eric Wind's documented 5504 carries a 7206 rivet bracelet dated to 1966 (clasp date code) — service-era period-correct fitment paired with a 1958-cased head, common across the 5504-era Air-Kings. A documented May-1962 5504 carries a later 78360 Oyster, illustrating the service-era replacement pattern.

The 5504 uses the same 19mm Oyster bracelet family seen on the 5500 and 1016; there is no separate 36mm-specific bracelet reference. Authentication on the bracelet rests on the case-and-clasp date verification rather than on the bracelet reference number alone; most surviving 5504s wear bracelets that post-date the 5504's own production window by a decade or more.

<span id="special-branches"></span>
==Special branches==
<span id="3-6-9-explorer-airking-branch"></span>
===3-6-9 Explorer-dial Air-King===
A documented special configuration. Documented across the specialist-dealer market. The dating contradiction (one specialist reading: gilt-Explorer 5504s only made in 1958; other dealers: 3-6-9 5504s across the production window with later examples being dial-swap candidates) defines the variant's market. Provenance papers and case-and-dial period consistency are useful checks.

<span id="dual-market-air-king-vs-explorer"></span>
===Dual-market Air-King vs Explorer regional split===
Marcus Siems' regional reading — repeated in collector discussions — frames the 5504 as dual-marketed by Rolex with bright-dial AIR-KING examples directed to Canadian and broader Commonwealth markets, and black-dial EXPLORER-style examples directed to UK markets. The mechanism appears to be regional dealer ordering rather than separate factory configurations: the same 5504 reference, the same case and movement, with AIR-KING-text or EXPLORER-style dials specified per market at order. The pattern surfaces in surviving 5504s' geographic provenance and in the regional preference for one dial configuration over the other in catalogue evidence.

<span id="naafi-distribution"></span>
===NAAFI distribution===
The 5504 surfaces in references to Navy, Army and Air Force Institutes (NAAFI) distribution — the British forces commissary that supplied watches to UK military personnel through the 1960s. No documented engraved-caseback NAAFI 5504 surfaces in the auction record, but the distribution channel is referenced in collector literature. The NAAFI connection concerns distribution; military issue and crest dials are not documented.

The Domino's Pizza, Tiffany retailer-signed, government-crest (Saudi / UAE / Bahrain / Kuwait), and Joyería Riviera retailer-signed 5504 configurations are not documented. The Domino's program (1977 onward) post-dates the 5504's retirement entirely; the Tiffany-signed dial program existed across the period but no 5504-specific Tiffany lot has surfaced; the government-crest commissions are 5500-era. Their absence is consistent with the 5504's short production window and modest contemporary market position.

<span id="historical-market-and-auction-record"></span>
==Historical market and auction record==
{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Sale !! Lot !! Year !! Reference details !! Result
|-
| Sotheby's London Important Watches || 364 || 2020 || 5504 c.1958, case 372,245, movement 41,321, black gloss radium dial || Est. GBP 10,000–18,000, hammered in 12,600–15,120 band
|-
| Bonhams London || — || 2018 || 5504 c.1959 || Sold GBP 13,750
|-
| Bonhams London || — || 2022 || 5504 || GBP 4,000–5,000 band
|-
| Hong Kong sale || — || 2019 || 5504 || HKD 68,750 (≈ USD 8,848)
|}

The table records individual auction results and estimates in different currencies. They differ by dial, condition, provenance and venue, so they do not establish a current price band.

The Phillips archive also contains 5504 lots in broader Rolex sales. The Sotheby's and Bonhams entries listed above provide the clearest named auction records in the cited material.

<span id="authentication"></span>
==Authentication==
The 5504 is 60+ years old and most surviving examples have been serviced multiple times. The dial restoration window of the 1980s–2000s caught many 5504s; original dials with even minor period patina (silvering loss, applied-marker shadowing, gilt-print degradation) are the originality positive, while perfectly clean dials should be examined as potential restorations.

Dial text is one check on originality. The 5504 dial reads either "AIR-KING SUPER PRECISION" (canonical) or "AIR-KING PRECISION" (lower-grade-adjusted variant). A 5504 with “SUPERLATIVE CHRONOMETER OFFICIALLY CERTIFIED” text would require an individual fitment and service-history check; the cited record does not establish it as an original 5504 configuration. A 5504 with an EXPLORER dial text is a dial swap and is not the same watch as a 1016.

The 3-6-9 Explorer-dial 5504 needs particularly careful authentication. The "produced only in 1958" specialist reading, if accurate, narrows the period-original 3-6-9 5504 examples to a single year of production. Later cased examples with 3-6-9 dials are dial-swap candidates. Provenance documentation tying the dial to the original sale, period photographs of the same example, and movement-dial-and-case period consistency are all essential at this sub-variant tier. Without that documentation, original fitment remains uncertain.

The case stamp inside the caseback should read 5504. Roman-quarter date codes (II.58, IV.62, etc.) inside the caseback should be period-consistent with the 1957-1964 production window. The case-number band runs roughly 350,000–950,000 across the documented production. A case number outside that band, particularly above 1,000,000, warrants a separate case, movement, and provenance review rather than an automatic attribution.

The movement should be Cal 1530. A 5504 with Cal 1520 (5500-era variant) or Cal 1560 (1016 Explorer caliber) is service-replacement and not original-delivery. The Cal 1530's butterfly rotor and Breguet overcoil are visible inside the case and provide cleaner architectural-anchor verification than the dial-text reading alone.

Bracelets are supplementary evidence because many surviving 5504s wear bands that post-date the watch head. Authentication should start with the dial, case stamp, movement, and provenance.

==Related references==
* [[Reference:4365|Air-King 4365]]
* [[Reference:4499|Air-King 4499]]
* [[Reference:4925|Air-King 4925]]
* [[Reference:5500|Air-King 5500]], 34mm Oyster (1957–1989)
* [[Reference:5501|Air-King 5501]]
* [[Reference:5502|Air-King 5502]]

See also the [[Reference:air-king|Air-King family index]], the [[Reference:explorer|Explorer family index]], [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|bracelet & clasp guide]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial numbers by year]].

== Sources ==
* ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' — Colin A. White, Morning Tundra
* [https://www.rescapement.com/blog/rolex-air-king-history Tony Traina, "Rolex Air-King History: The Forgotten King", Rescapement]
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/history-of-the-rolex-air-king-the-underrated-pilots-watch/ Erik Slaven, "History of the Rolex Air-King, the underrated pilots watch", Monochrome Watches, 2025]
* [https://goldammer.me/blogs/articles/rolex-airking-origin-history-and-design-evolution Marcus Siems, "Rolex Air-King Origin History and Design Evolution", Goldammer]
* [https://robbreport.com/style/watch-collector/lists/complete-guide-to-the-rolex-air-king-1945-to-present-1235881849/ "The Complete Guide to Rolex Air-King Watches From 1945 to Present", Robb Report]
* [https://revolutionwatch.com/kens-klassics-rolex-air-king/ Ken Kessler, "Kens Klassics Rolex Air-King 5500 and 5504", Revolution Watch, 2020]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2020/important-watches-3/rolex-air-king-super-precision-ref-5504 "Rolex Air-King Super Precision Ref 5504 c.1958 Sothebys London Important Watches Lot 364", Sotheby's, 2020]
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auctions/london-watches-2018/ "Rolex Air-King Ref 5504 c.1959 Bonhams London", Bonhams, 2018]
* [https://www.windvintage.com/rolex-air-king-reference-5504 Eric Wind, "Rolex Air-King Reference 5504 36mm Honeycomb Dial", Wind Vintage]
* [https://bulangandsons.com/products/rolex-air-king-5504 "Rolex Air-King Super Precision Ref 5504 Tropical Underline Dial w3509", Bulang and Sons]
* [https://www.craftandtailored.com/products/rolex-air-king-5504 "Rolex Air-King Ref 5504 Explorer Gilt 3-6-9 Dial 1958", Craft and Tailored]
* [https://beckertime.com/blog/rolex-caliber-15201530/ "Rolex Caliber 1520 and 1530", Beckertime]

[[Category:Air-King]]
[[Category:Explorer]]

Reference:2136

2026-09-29T08:39:30Z

Klaudiusz: Tighten 2136 evidence and provenance wording

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex 2136 Oyster Perpetual}}
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Oyster Perpetual 2136 — Production, Dials & Serial Ranges | Rolexopedia
|description=The 2136 is an early manual-wind Oyster documented in small octagonal and cushion cases, with 9ct, 18ct and steel examples, fixed wire lugs and a small Aegler movement.
|image=Ref 2136 hero.jpg
|image_alt=Rolex 2136 Oyster Perpetual
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|published_time=2026-04-17T21:04:10Z
|modified_time=2026-08-04T00:11:15Z
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
}}

<small>Oyster → '''2136'''</small>

<div class="rp-lead">
[[File:Ref_2136_hero.webp|thumb|center|640px|alt=Rolex 2136 Oyster Perpetual|Rolex 2136 Oyster Perpetual]]
</div>

The 2136 is an early manual-wind Oyster documented in octagonal and cushion cases. The surviving record includes gold and steel examples, fixed wire lugs and small Aegler movements.

<span id="core-facts"></span>
==Core facts==
{| class="wikitable rp-facts"
|-
! detail
! value
|-
| reference
| 2136
|-
| family
| Oyster (early manual-wind)
|-
| production
| about 1926–1940 (low confidence; see below)
|-
| case shape
| octagonal (primary); cushion (c.1925 example)
|-
| case diameter
| 32×34 mm / 33 mm / 37×31 mm reported across sources
|-
| case materials
| 9ct yellow gold, 9K rose gold, 18K rose gold, stainless steel, nickel silver
|-
| lug style
| fixed wire lugs (soldered, not spring bars)
|-
| bezel
| smooth polished, integral with case form
|-
| crystal
| mineral glass or early acrylic
|-
| movement
| 15-jewel manual, Hunter-type Cal. 10 (10½ lignes), rhodium-plated
|-
| balance
| Rolex "Superbalance," Breguet overcoil, timed in 6 positions
|-
| caseback signatures
| "R.W.C. LTD." and "Oyster Watch Co., Great Britain and U.S.A. Patents"
|}

A second, distinct watch also carries the reference 2136: a c.1960 Precision with Cal. 1400. It is addressed at the end of this article. Everything above this paragraph refers to the early manual-wind Oyster.

<span id="where-it-sits-in-the-line"></span>
==Where it sits in the line==
The 2136 is a product of Rolex's earliest Oyster catalog. When Hans Wilsdorf assembled the Perregaux/Perret screw-down crown, the Spillmann three-piece case, and the Aegler movement into the thing he trademarked "Oyster" in 1926, there was no reference-number system. Rolex described the initial Oyster range by case shape and size: octagonal or cushion, 28 mm ladies or 32 mm men's, in 9ct, 18ct, or 21K gold, silver, or chromium-plated base metal. Reference numbers arrived later, and when they did, they were applied retroactively to variants already in production.

The 2136 appears in the later reference system applied to early Oyster variants. The reference covers the men's octagonal Oyster through roughly the end of the 1930s, spanning the transition from the earliest Oyster construction into the beginning of the Bubbleback era. By the time 2136 production wound down, the first Perpetual references (1858, 3131, 3372) had already established the rotor-driven Oyster as Rolex's future. The 2136 is manual-wind throughout. It belongs to the manual-wind Oyster group that preceded the wider Perpetual range.

The closest siblings to the 2136 are the other early-reference manual Oysters of the 1930s: 1069, 1147, 1237, 1573, 1880, 2005, and the rest of the cushion-and-octagonal family catalogued in ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual''. None of these references is well documented individually. Production data is sparse, auction appearances are thin, and dealer descriptions blur together. The cited record includes several 9ct British-hallmarked examples, alongside less frequent steel and rose-gold listings.

<span id="what-changed-across-the-run"></span>
==What changed across the run==
Within the 2136's span, the most visible change is material. Early examples, including the unusual c.1925 Antiquorum piece, appear in stainless steel. By the mid-1930s, when Glasgow and Edinburgh hallmarks start showing up on surviving examples, the cited examples include small 9ct yellow-gold octagonal cases with British hallmarks, silvered dials and blued leaf hands. Rose gold examples (both 9K and 18K) exist in parallel, and stainless steel surfaces occasionally. A nickel silver variant is documented in dealer listings but is rarely offered at auction.

The movement stays constant across the run. A 10½-ligne Hunter-style manual-wind caliber, fifteen jewels standard, rhodium-plated, with a straight-line lever escapement, a Rolex-patented Superbalance, and a self-compensating Breguet overcoil, timed in six positions for all climates. This is the same movement architecture Rolex used across its early 1930s manual Oysters. The six-position adjustment and Superbalance wording appear in the cited movement descriptions and period material.

What does not change is the lug configuration. Fixed wire lugs (thin, curved, soldered to the case rather than drilled for spring bars) are a defining visual feature of the early Oyster form. They are present on the cited 2136 examples. A candidate with spring-bar lugs needs case-level verification.

The 1926–1940 band used here has soft edges at both ends. The earliest indexed example is the Antiquorum cushion dated c.1925, which pre-dates the Oyster patent grant; the late-1930s Glasgow and Edinburgh hallmarks establish production into at least 1938. Whether the reference ran on into the early 1940s or was superseded by one of the newer Oyster references of that period is not documented. Neither is a production total: no figure has ever been published, and with the 2136 one variant among dozens of early Oyster references sharing small-batch runs, the available case-number record is not systematic enough to derive a production total.

<span id="case-and-construction"></span>
==Case and construction==
<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
File:Ref2136_9ct_octagonal.webp|alt=9ct gold octagonal 2136, early 1930s.|9ct gold octagonal 2136, early 1930s.
File:Ref2136_18ct_octagonal.webp|alt=Rolex Oyster 2136 in 18ct gold, octagonal case, an early-Oyster form.|Rolex Oyster 2136 in 18ct gold, octagonal case, an early-Oyster form.
File:Ref2136_9ct_cushion.webp|alt=9ct gold cushion-case 2136 — the alternate shape.|9ct gold cushion-case 2136 — the alternate shape.
File:Ref 2136 caseback.webp|alt=Caseback engraved "R.W.C. LTD." and "Oyster Watch Co., Great Britain and U.S.A. Patents".|Caseback engraved "R.W.C. LTD." and the Oyster Watch Co. patent text
</gallery>

The 2136 appears in two case shapes, octagonal first and cushion alongside it. The octagonal form is the better-documented shape in the cited record and is visually distinct from the cushion examples.

The cushion 2136 sold at Antiquorum in April 1999, dated c.1925, is the lone documented example of that shape in the indexed public record. If the dating is accurate, it pre-dates the Oyster patent grant and suggests either a pre-production piece, a misdated lot, or the reference being applied retroactively to a case from the earliest Oyster experiments. The Antiquorum catalog noted the case was fitted with a dust-protecting cap over the crown, an early-Oyster detail consistent with the pre-1930 period.

Case construction is three-piece: bezel, mid-case, caseback, threaded together. The caseback interior carries the reference number and the period signatures. Two inscriptions appear consistently across surviving examples: "R.W.C. LTD.," short for Rolex Watch Company Limited, and "Oyster Watch Co., Great Britain and U.S.A. Patents." The second is standard Oyster-era caseback text citing the patents used on early Oyster cases. The markings help compare a 2136 with related Wilsdorf alternate-brand Oysters such as Rolco, Aqua, and standalone Oyster Watch Co. cases.

The three-piece construction itself descends directly from François Borgel's 1903 Swiss patent for a hermetic screw case, ''"la lunette, le fond et la carrure se vissant toutes trois sur le garde-poussière"'': bezel, caseback, and middle case all screw onto the movement retaining ring. The 1926 Oyster case is a refinement of this architecture, adding the screw-down crown that Borgel's version lacked. Rolex's own pre-Oyster watches from about 1919–1920 used Borgel-made three-piece cases of this type (Boettcher, ''vintagewatchstraps.com''). The 2136 caseback is structurally a Borgel-lineage case with Rolex's patented crown system added.

<span id="dimensions"></span>
===Dimensions===
Reported dimensions vary across surviving examples: 32×34 mm, 33 mm excluding crown, and 37×31 mm have all been documented. The variance reflects real production variation across years and materials plus different measurement conventions on a shaped case: width across flats versus width across points, lug-to-lug versus case-only, inclusive or exclusive of the crown. The practical position for collectors: expect a 2136 to wear as a small watch by modern standards, somewhere in the 32–34 mm range on the short axis, with the octagonal form affecting how the dimensions read on the wrist.

<span id="the-15-jewel-movement"></span>
==The 15-jewel movement==
The 2136 uses the usual early Hunter-type Oyster movement architecture. The naming is messy across sources, but the useful spec is stable enough: 15 jewels, Superbalance, and the early Rolex manual-wind format rather than anything later or more standardized.

The cited descriptions give six-position adjustment and Superbalance. Those details describe the movement’s regulation; they do not by themselves establish official chronometer certification. Movement plates on surviving 2136s are signed with the Rolex wordmark and the Superbalance designation; a few examples carry additional chronometer markings, though the 2136 was not submitted to official observatory certification as a matter of course.

These movements predate later shock-protection systems such as Incabloc and KIF. The Rolex-patented Superbalance is a regulation design, not a shock-protection system. The A.296 caliber of the late 1940s is identified in the cited material as an early Rolex shock-protected movement, more than a decade after the 2136's 10½ Hunter base.

<span id="dial-variants"></span>
==Dial variants==
Surviving 2136 dials span a wider range than the small auction corpus would suggest. Confirmed configurations include:

Silver or white dials with black Arabic numerals and subsidiary seconds at six o’clock appear on the cited 9ct British-hallmarked examples.

Two-tone silver-and-black dials carry a silver minute track around a black central zone or vice versa, a restrained Art Deco treatment consistent with period-dress-watch aesthetics.

Matted silver dials with painted Breguet numerals and auxiliary seconds turn up on mid-run examples, particularly rose gold cases from the mid-1930s. Breguet numerals are the distinctive curved, serif-heavy Arabic form.

Radium luminous dials with original luminous Arabic numerals and matching luminous hands are less common on the 2136 than on its sportier Oyster contemporaries, but they are documented. Radium dials on gold 2136 cases tend to show heavy patina, with the radium ageing to orange or brown against the silvered base.

California dials carry half Roman numerals on the upper half and half Arabic on the lower, with radium plots. The California configuration on the 2136 is unusual and probably represents late production (the California patent dates to 1941) or a service-era dial. Rolex's own term for this layout was Error-Proof or High Visibility; the California name came from 1970s–80s refinishers and stuck.

White restored dials are what the name suggests: refinished dials on original cases. Dealer listings include restored dials; originality and value require examination of the individual watch.

Blued steel leaf hands are the most common handset on gold 2136s. The Antiquorum c.1925 cushion example carried blued "Cathédrale" hands, the cathedral-window openwork design typical of very early Oyster production. Black pointed baton hands and blued hands with radium plots are also documented. Matching patina between dial and hands supports a period-original set, while mismatched aging is one sign of a possible service replacement.

<span id="auction-and-dealer-record"></span>
==Auction and dealer record==
The cited auction record is concentrated in Antiquorum, Bonhams and smaller specialist houses. Antiquorum gives the earliest documented public example, Bonhams and several dealers fill out the British-hallmarked gold side, and dealer listings add examples with different materials, conditions, and asking prices, but they are not a controlled market series.

The cited sales and dealer listings cover different materials, conditions and dates. They do not establish a current price range.

<span id="the-gleitze-question"></span>
==The Gleitze question==
Because the 2136 is an early 9ct gold octagonal Oyster, and because Mercedes Gleitze wore an early 9ct gold octagonal Oyster during her 1927 Channel swims, the two are frequently conflated in casual references. The cited records identify the watches separately.

Gleitze's watch was reference 34075, not 2136. Sotheby's Geneva confirmed that in ''Important Watches Part I'' (9 November 2025, Lot 134), cataloguing it as a pre-production Oyster prototype in 9ct gold with an octagonal case, wire lugs, Glasgow 1926/1927 import marks, and the engraved caseback naming Mercedes Gleitze and the Vindication Channel Swim of 21 October 1927. The dial carries the "7 World's Records / Patent Applied for 114948 / Oyster Patent winding crown" text. Inside is a 9¾′′′ Hunter movement later service-updated to Cal. 600. The watch sold for CHF 1,392,000.

The overlap is real, but the watches are not the same. Both are early 9ct gold octagonal Oysters with wire lugs and R.W.C. LTD. caseback stamps because both belong to Rolex's first Oyster architecture. The 34075 predates the reference system and was issued to Gleitze as a pre-production watch. The 2136 is the later catalog reference for related production pieces. Best current reading: the 2136 is a production cousin of the Gleitze watch, not the Gleitze watch itself.

Some dealer listings conflate the two. The cited Sotheby’s record identifies the Gleitze watch as reference 34075, separate from the 2136.

<span id="the-second-2136-c.1960-cal.-1400-precision"></span>
==The second 2136: c.1960 Cal. 1400 Precision==
A distinct watch also carries the reference 2136. It surfaces in dealer listings as a c.1960 Rolex Precision with a Cal. 1400 movement (18 jewels, manual-wind) sharing no architectural DNA with the pre-1940 Hunter-type caliber of the early Oyster 2136. The case is typically a round Precision form in the 30–32 mm range, not octagonal or cushion. The Cal. 1400 places the watch in the late 1950s to mid-1960s Rolex manual-Precision production, a parallel universe from the early Oyster.

The later 2136 is thinly documented, and the cleanest reading is that Rolex reused the number. The movement separates the two records: a 10½ Hunter points to the early Oyster watch, while caliber 1400 belongs to the later Precision-era watch. These are different watches that happen to share a reference number.

<span id="collecting-considerations"></span>
==Collecting considerations==
British-hallmarked 9ct gold cases are the most common 2136 configuration, dating through the 1930s with Glasgow, Edinburgh, and Chester marks all appearing regularly. Hallmark dating is a useful date anchor for this period. Rolex serials in the 1920s–30s ran separate gold and silver series, according to Boettcher's research, so a serial estimate should be checked against the hallmark and case evidence.

The cited sources do not establish how many surviving 2136 dials were refinished. Check printing, lume or radium ageing, hand matching and movement fitment against documented period examples.

Fixed wire lugs are a defining structural feature. The lugs are soldered integrally to the case; replacing them with spring-bar lugs would require substantial case modification, so a 2136 with spring-bar lugs is not period-correct. Straps are fitted with loops over or around the wire lugs rather than clipped between them, which is normal for the early Oyster form and not evidence of tampering.

Period movements are signed with the Rolex wordmark and typically the Superbalance designation, with six-position adjustment text visible on the plate. An unsigned movement, or one with different caliber architecture, is either a service replacement or a sign that the watch is not what it claims to be.

The cited auction and dealer records are individual examples, not a valuation guide.

==Related references==
* [[Reference:2574|Oyster Perpetual 2574]]
* [[Reference:3139|Oyster Perpetual 3139]], 1938–1947
* [[Reference:3359|Oyster Perpetual 3359]], 1934–1946
* [[Reference:4220|Oyster Perpetual 4220]]
* [[Reference:5701|Oyster Perpetual 5701]], 1959–1988

See also the [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|bracelet & clasp guide]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial numbers by year]].

== Sources ==
* ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' — Colin A. White, Morning Tundra
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-83-146 Antiquorum Geneva — Rolex ref 2136 SS cushion c.1925] — Antiquorum
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/29892/lot/89/rolex-a-9k-gold-manual-wind-wristwatch-ref-2136-glasgow-import-mark-for-1937/ Bonhams Lot 89 — Rolex ref 2136 9K gold Glasgow 1937] — Bonhams
* [https://timerediscovered.com/products/rolex-9k-gold-ref-2136-circa-1938 Time Rediscovered — Rolex ref 2136 9K gold c.1938] — Time Rediscovered
* [https://jptimepieces.com/product/ref-2136-18k-rose-gold-octagonal-wristwatch-circa-1930/ JP Timepieces — Rolex ref 2136 18K rose gold octagonal c.1930] — JP Timepieces
* [https://www.bachmann-scher.de/en/sold-watches/rolex-vintage-early-oyster-mercedes-gleitze-ref-2136-9k-rose-gold-bj-1938-7831.html Bachmann & Scher — Rolex ref 2136 9K rose gold 1938 Mercedes Gleitze attribution] — Bachmann & Scher
* [https://www.vintage-wristwatches.co.uk/watches-catalogue/archived-watches/rolex-watches-archive/ Olde Timers / Vintage Wristwatches UK — multiple Rolex ref 2136 octagonal/cushion listings] — Olde Timers, vintage-wristwatches.co.uk
* [https://www.collectorsquare.com/en/watches/rolex/oyster/ref-rolex-2136/lpi Collectors Square — Rolex Oyster Ref 2136 Price Index] — Collectors Square
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2025/important-watches-part-i-ge2504/the-companion-oyster-mercedes-gleitze-rolex-oyster Sotheby's Geneva Important Watches Part I GE2504 Lot 134 — Mercedes Gleitze 'The Companion' Rolex Oyster ref 34075] — Sotheby's
* [https://www.windvintage.com/blog/2022/9/7/the-oyster-story Wind Vintage — The Oyster Story (Part 1)] — Owen Lawton / Wind Vintage, Wind Vintage
* [https://www.vintagewatchstraps.com/blogoystercase.php VintageWatchStraps (David Boettcher) — Rolex Oyster Case, Hermetic, Submarine research] — David Boettcher, vintagewatchstraps.com

[[Category:Oyster]]

Reference:18048

2026-09-29T08:37:44Z

Klaudiusz: Tighten 18048 bezel and auction wording

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex Day-Date 18048}}
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Day-Date 18048 — The Yellow-Gold Diamond-Bezel President
|description=The Rolex 18048 is the yellow-gold factory-diamond-bezel 5-digit Day-Date President — caliber 3055, sapphire crystal, 44-diamond bezel, circa 1977-1988. The 5-digit successor to the gem-set 1804; documented branches include diamond-set “Octopus” bracelets.
|keywords=Rolex 18048, Day-Date 18048, diamond bezel Day-Date, yellow gold President, caliber 3055, Octopus bracelet, 5-digit Day-Date
|image=Ref 18048 hero.webp
|image_alt=Yellow gold Rolex Day-Date 18048 diamond bezel champagne dial
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|published_time=2026-06-16T02:10:45Z
|modified_time=2026-08-04T00:10:38Z
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
|titlemode=replace
}}
<small>[[Reference:day-date|Day-Date]] › '''18048'''</small>

<div class="rp-lead">
[[File:Ref 18048 stella.webp|thumb|center|640px|alt=Rolex Day-Date 18048|Rolex Day-Date 18048]]
</div>

The 18048 is the diamond-bezel Day-Date of the sapphire-crystal era, the 5-digit successor to the 4-digit gem-set [[Reference:1804|1804]]. It is a yellow-gold President with a factory diamond-set bezel of 44 round brilliants, caliber 3055 and a sapphire crystal, and it ran from the late 1970s to 1988. The cited catalogues show the factory diamond bezel with several dial and bracelet configurations, including diamond-set “Octopus” bracelets.

==Core facts==
{| class="wikitable rp-facts"
|-
! detail
! value
|-
| reference
| 18048
|-
| family
| Day-Date
|-
| production
| circa 1977/78 to 1988
|-
| movement
| caliber 3055, 27 jewels, 28,800 vph, single quickset (date); sapphire era
|-
| case
| 36mm 18k yellow gold President
|-
| crystal
| sapphire
|-
| bezel
| factory diamond-set, 44 round brilliants
|-
| bracelet
| President 8385 with hidden Crownclasp, solid links
|-
| dial
| diamond-index champagne and silver, mother-of-pearl, stone, Stella, Roman, pavé
|-
| crown
| Twinlock screw-down
|-
| siblings
| 18038 (fluted), 18039 (white-gold fluted), 18049 (white-gold diamond), 18046 (platinum diamond), 18078 / 18079 (bark)
|-
| predecessor
| 1804 (4-digit gem-set)
|-
| successor
| 18348 (caliber 3155, double quickset)
|}

==Where it sits in the line==
The 18048 is the diamond-bezel member of the first 5-digit Day-Date generation, the sapphire-crystal continuation of the diamond thread that runs from the 4-digit [[Reference:1804|1804]] through the 18048 to the caliber-3155 18348. The 5-digit references split by metal and bezel. The [[Reference:18038|18038]] is the yellow-gold fluted volume reference, the 18039 its white-gold version, and the diamond-bezel cases follow the same logic, 18048 in yellow gold, 18049 in white gold and 18046 in platinum. The 18048 shares the 36mm case, caliber 3055, sapphire crystal and President-bracelet family with the 18038. Its factory diamond bezel is the principal distinction from the fluted 18038; the [[Reference:18038|18038]] entry covers the shared specifications.

==Production outline==
The 18048 ran from the late 1970s, when the 5-digit references took over from the 4-digit line with sapphire crystals and the caliber 3055, until 1988, when the caliber 3155 and its double quickset arrived and the diamond-bezel reference became the 18348. The diamond bezel appears in the cited 5-digit Day-Date catalogues. No Rolex production figure has surfaced, and dealer estimates for the diamond and bark references are not factory data. Dial and bracelet configurations vary among surviving examples.

==Movement notes==
The 18048 runs the caliber 3055, the first quickset Day-Date movement, at 27 jewels and 28,800 vph with a date quickset from the crown. The day still has to be advanced by running the hands through midnight, since the day quickset did not arrive until the caliber 3155 in 1988. That single-versus-double quickset distinction is exactly what separates the 18048 from its successor the 18348. The movement is otherwise the shared sapphire-era Day-Date caliber, COSC-certified and carried across the whole first 5-digit generation. The [[Reference:Movements]] page holds the caliber lineage, and the [[Reference:18038|18038]] entry covers the 3055 in detail.

==Dial map==
The diamond bezel is the constant on the 18048, and the dial is where the variety lives. Cited examples include champagne and silvered dials with diamond markers, mother-of-pearl, onyx, lapis, Roman-numeral, diamond-pavé, blue dégradé and Stella dials. This is an example list, not a complete factory register. A green-Stella 18048 with the red Omani Khanjar emblem, sold at Phillips in 2015, documents the reference's reach into the Gulf special orders. The deep dial taxonomy that spans the President line sits on the [[Reference:1803|1803]] entry.

==Case, bezel, crystal, and crown==
The case is the 36mm yellow-gold Oyster shared across the 5-digit Day-Date, with a sapphire crystal and Cyclops, a Twinlock screw-down crown and a screw-down caseback. The defining feature is the factory diamond-set bezel, a single row of 44 round brilliants. Aftermarket diamond bezels and dials appear on watches described as 18048s, so factory origin is a central authenticity question for an individual example. The 44-stone specification should be checked against the setting and any available Rolex documentation. Count, stone matching and mount details can help distinguish a replacement, but no single visual feature proves factory origin.

==Bracelets, end links, and clasps==
[[File:Ref 18048 octopus.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=Rolex 18048 Octopus diamond-set President bracelet|The diamond-set “Octopus” President bracelet, documented on individual auction examples.]]

The 18048 wears the President bracelet, reference 8385, with the concealed Crownclasp and the solid links of the 5-digit era, heavier and more rigid than the hollow-link 4-digit bracelets. A diamond-set President bracelet is nicknamed the “Octopus” in collector and auction usage. Its fitment and originality should be checked on the individual watch. As with any President, a clasp date code dates the bracelet, which may be older or newer than the head, and the cross-family bracelet detail sits on [[Reference:Bracelets]].

==Special branches==
===Special dials===
Blue dégradé, black-lacquer, Stella and Gulf special-order dials are documented on individual 18048 examples. Each should be described by its own catalogue and provenance.

===The "Octopus"===
The fully diamond-set President bracelet, called the “Octopus” in the cited catalogues, is documented on several auction examples. Results vary with dial, condition, provenance and completeness.

==Auction record==
The auction table records several configurations, including diamond-set bracelets and special dials. Antiquorum sold a champagne-dial "Octopus", with the diamond-set President bracelet, in Monaco in 2022 for EUR 96,200, and Sotheby's catalogued a black-lacquer "Octopus" the following year. A champagne diamond-index 18048 sold at Monaco Legend in 2022 for EUR 22,100. The result applies to that configuration and venue. These results differ by dial, bracelet, provenance and condition; they do not establish a current price range.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! date
! house
! configuration
! result
|-
| 2022
| Antiquorum Monaco, lot 81
| champagne diamond dial, diamond-set "Octopus" bracelet, c.1981
| EUR 96,200
|-
| 2023
| Sotheby's Important Watches Part I, lot 51
| black-lacquer diamond dial, "Octopus" bracelet, c.1981
| not sold (est. CHF 40,000–60,000)
|-
| 2022
| Monaco Legend, Exclusive Timepieces 28, lot 243
| champagne diamond-index dial, President bracelet, 1985
| EUR 22,100
|-
| 2019
| Sotheby's Important Watches, lot 1063
| blue dégradé diamond dial, 44-diamond bezel, c.1980
| published lot reference
|}

==Related references==
* [[Reference:18028|Day-Date 18028]], 1977–1988
* [[Reference:18038|Day-Date 18038]], caliber 3055 President (1977–1988)
* [[Reference:18078|Day-Date 18078]], 1977–1988
* [[Reference:19018|Day-Date 19018]], Oysterquartz President (1977–2001)
* [[Reference:18208|Day-Date 18208]], 1988–2000
* [[Reference:18238|Day-Date 18238]], 1988–2000

See also the [[Reference:day-date|Day-Date family index]], [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|bracelet & clasp guide]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial numbers by year]].

== Sources ==
* ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' — Colin A. White, Morning Tundra
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-18048-day-date-lot-347-81 Antiquorum, "Rolex Ref. 18048 Day-Date "Octopus", 18k yellow gold with diamond bezel and diamond-set President bracelet — Antiquorum Monaco, lot 81", Antiquorum, 2022]
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080115/11 Phillips, "Rolex Ref. 18048 Day-Date, 18k yellow gold with green Stella dial and Omani Khanjar emblem — Phillips Glamorous Day-Date, Geneva, lot 11", Phillips, 2015]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2019/important-watches/rolex-ref-18048-18000-day-date-a-yellow-gold-and Sotheby's, "Rolex Ref. 18048/18000 Day-Date, 18k yellow gold with 44-diamond bezel and blue dégradé dial — Sotheby's Important Watches, lot 1063", Sotheby's, 2019]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2023/important-watches-part-i-2/day-date-octopus-reference-18048-a-yellow-gold-and Sotheby's, "Rolex Ref. 18048 Day-Date "Octopus", 18k yellow gold with black lacquer diamond dial and diamond-set bracelet — Sotheby's Important Watches Part I, lot 51", Sotheby's, 2023]
* [https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-28/lot-243 Monaco Legend Group, "Rolex Ref. 18048 Day-Date, 18k yellow gold with diamond bezel and champagne diamond-index dial — Monaco Legend Group, Exclusive Timepieces 28, lot 243", Monaco Legend Group, 2022]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/ Sotheby's editorial, "The Rolex Day-Date: A Complete Collector's Guide", Sotheby's]
* [https://italianwatchspotter.com/the-history-of-the-rolex-day-date/?lang=en Italian Watch Spotter editorial, "The History of the Rolex Day-Date", Italian Watch Spotter]
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/history-rolex-day-date-1956-present-president-watch-in-depth-review/ Monochrome editorial, "In-Depth: The History of the Rolex Day-Date, The Presidential Watch", Monochrome Watches]
* [https://watchbase.com/rolex/caliber/3155 WatchBase, "Rolex caliber 3155 (registry page)", WatchBase]
* [https://www.bobswatches.com/rolex-blog/resources/quickset-vintage-day-date-models.html Bob's Watches editorial, "Quickset Vintage Day-Date Models", Bob's Watches]
* [https://watchbase.com/blog/2015/02/21/rolex-day-date-history WatchBase editorial, "Rolex Day-Date History", WatchBase, 2015-02-21]

[[Category:Day-Date]]

Reference:2940

2026-09-29T08:36:38Z

Klaudiusz: Tighten 2940 production and authentication wording

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex 2940 Bubbleback}}
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Bubbleback 2940 (1940–1949) — Production & Dial Guide | Rolexopedia
|description=Reference guide to the Rolex Bubbleback 2940, a 31–32mm two-piece Oyster with center seconds, documented steel and gold-top cases, and 1940s dial variants.
|image=Ref 2940 hero.webp
|image_alt=Rolex 2940 Bubbleback steel 1942
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|published_time=2026-04-17T22:14:06Z
|modified_time=2026-08-04T00:11:36Z
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
}}

<small>[[Reference:bubbleback|Bubbleback]] › '''2940'''</small>

<div class="rp-lead">
[[File:Ref 2940 hero.webp|thumb|center|640px|alt=1942 steel Bubbleback|1942 steel Bubbleback]]
</div>

The 2940 is a 31–32mm two-piece Bubbleback with center seconds. Published examples include stainless-steel, gold-top and 9K cases, with dial variants documented across 1940s auction and specialist records.

<span id="core-facts"></span>
==Core facts==
{| class="wikitable rp-facts"
|-
! detail
! value
|-
| reference
| 2940
|-
| family
| Bubbleback (collector name; never official Rolex usage)
|-
| production
| c.1940–1949; many cited examples date to 1942–1947
|-
| case diameter
| 31–32mm
|-
| case shape
| round
|-
| case construction
| two-piece (caseback screws directly into case middle)
|-
| lug-to-lug
| ~38–38.5mm
|-
| lug width
| 16–17mm
|-
| lugs
| squared-off inner profile (hooded examples debated)
|-
| bezel
| smooth, polished, domed
|-
| crystal
| acrylic
|-
| seconds
| center sweep (not sub-seconds)
|-
| movement
| Cal. 9¾′′′, 17 jewels (some 18j); some examples Cal. 630
|-
| case materials
| stainless steel, 14K gold-top/steel, 9K solid gold
|-
| serial range
| ~200,000 (c.1942) to ~690,000 (c.1949)
|}

<span id="where-it-sits-in-the-line"></span>
==Where it sits in the line==
The 2940 is a center-seconds Bubbleback that followed the two-piece case introduced by the 3131 and 3132. Its center-mounted seconds hand runs from the 9¾′′′ movement family rather than a subsidiary register at 6. Published records place production roughly from 1940 through 1949, with many cited examples dated 1942–1947.

[[File:Ref 2940 full.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=2940 rose-numeral dial Phillips lot|Phillips Geneva 2015 lot, rose-numeral dial]]
Within the Bubbleback range, the 2940 sits beside the sub-seconds 2764, the more mixed-metal 3065, and the engine-turned 3372. Steel, gold-top over steel, and 9K solid-gold cases are documented; the cited records do not establish production proportions. The documented serial range runs from the low 200,000s to the high 600,000s, which fits roughly 1942 to 1949. Unlike later sports references, the 2940 does not break into neat generations. The variation is in dials, hands, and case metal.

<span id="the-wartime-commercial-position"></span>
===The wartime commercial position===
The early 1940s records show the 2940 in more than one market. Dial and case combinations vary across the surviving examples, but the cited sources do not establish how Rolex allocated production by market.

<span id="the-two-piece-case"></span>
==The two-piece case==
The 2940 uses the two-piece case architecture the 3131 introduced in 1936: a round mid-case with the bezel integral to the case middle, closed at the back by a screw-down caseback that threads directly into the case. The case has no separate bezel ring or discrete movement-holder. It measures 31–32mm in diameter with a lug-to-lug of roughly 38–38.5mm and a lug width between 16 and 17mm. The bezel is smooth and domed, polished, unmarked, set slightly proud of the crystal aperture.

The inner lug profile is squared-off. This is the standard 2940 lug configuration, and it is the reference point for checking a hooded-lug claim.

[[File:Ref 2940 profile.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=2940 Bubbleback profile bulge|1946 example, profile shows Bubbleback caseback bulge]]
<span id="the-hooded-lug-debate"></span>
===The hooded-lug debate===
Published Bubbleback references associate the hooded-lug case form with the 3065 rather than the 2940. A 2940 offered with hooded lugs therefore needs close comparison of caseback stamping, lug geometry and provenance before the reference is accepted.

A hooded-lug 2940 claim needs positive evidence. The cited collector record does not establish a confirmed original 2940 with that case form.

<span id="serial-and-reference-engraving"></span>
===Serial and reference engraving===
2940 cases carry the reference number engraved between the upper lugs and the serial number engraved between the lower lugs, consistent with the 1920s–1940s Oyster convention. Caseback interiors carry the Oyster Watch Co. signature along with period-correct patent and hallmark markings. The reference is also repeated on the caseback interior. This double-engraving of the reference makes 2940 authentication relatively straightforward where the lugs have not been altered; forged-hood examples can be detected by comparing the between-lug engraving (still typically legible as 2940) against the lug profile (incorrectly modified to a hooded form).

<span id="the-movement"></span>
==The movement==
The 2940 runs on Rolex's 9 3/4 ligne automatic family, usually 17 jewels and sometimes 18 in better-grade or later-service examples. The practical point is simple: this is a Bubbleback-era automatic with center sweep seconds, not a special one-off movement.

The cited 2940 movements do not have a documented hacking feature. Pulling the crown stops the hands while the seconds continue to run, so exact synchronization requires a small setting correction.

Cal. 630 is cited on some 2940 examples as the numbered designation for the 9¾′′′ sweep-seconds configuration. Other catalogues give only the ligne measurement. The movement and its markings should be inspected on each watch rather than inferred from the reference alone.

<span id="dial-variants"></span>
==Dial variants==
The 2940 has a broad documented dial range. Some of this breadth reflects Rolex's pre-war practice of configuring dials to retailer specification; some of it reflects the reference's long production run across multiple export markets; some of it reflects refinishing activity over the subsequent eight decades.

[[File:Ref 2940 dial-detail.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=2940 dial close-up rose numerals sub-seconds|Applied rose numerals + sub-seconds register]]
The sector dial, multi-tone silver with dot and Arabic indices divided into concentric or radial zones, appears less often in the cited 2940 record. The sector layout appears on some 2940 cases; the cited auction record does not establish a general price premium.

The California dial, Roman numerals on the upper half and Arabic numerals on the lower half with a square marker at 6, appears on the 2940 both as original Rolex production and as later refinishing. Phillips Geneva Watch Auction TWO 2015 lot 277 is a documented original-production California 2940 example: stainless steel case, pink California dial, dated c.1941, estimated CHF 8,000–12,000 and sold at CHF 10,000 on the low estimate. Originality is difficult to establish because refinished California dials also circulate; the lot record should be checked against the individual dial.

Arabic-radium dials are documented on silvered and black bases, with hour markers filled with radium luminous compound. Original radium fill has aged to a warm orange-brown patina on surviving examples; white or cream lume on a 2940 dial needs inspection for refinishing or later replacement.

Two-tone contrasting-zone dials divide the dial into inner and outer zones with contrasting finishes, typically a silver outer zone with a darker inner track or vice versa. The two-tone layout traveled across several contemporaneous references and appears on the 2940 in examples dated to 1942 and the surrounding years.

Heritage Auctions catalogued a c.1942 two-tone salmon 2940. That lot documents the configuration; it does not establish production frequency or a general market premium.

Silvered and champagne-finish dials with applied hour markers and a minute track are also documented. Dealer listings are not a controlled measure of their share of production.

Black lacquer or matte black dials run against the dominant dial language of the era. Black-dial 2940s appear in the record, alongside refinished examples. Dial originality requires watch-specific inspection.

A 24-hour dial with markers from 1 through 24 is reported on a small number of 2940 cases. The cited material does not establish its procurement history or a general price premium.

Dealer-signed dials are documented on 2940 examples. The Erbe Basel signature is one recorded case; the cited sources do not establish how common retailer commissions were across the reference. The "Erbe Basel" signature, for the Erbe jewelry retailer in Basel, Switzerland, is one of the documented dealer signatures on 2940 dials.

<span id="hand-variants"></span>
===Hand variants===
Four hand styles are documented on surviving 2940s: Mercedes, sword, pencil, and dauphine. The hand set should be assessed with the dial, case, and movement.

Mismatched lume aging between dial markers and hands is one warning sign of a possible hand replacement. On a 2940 whose dial lume has aged to orange-brown, hands with cleaner or differently patinated lume need comparison with the dial, case history, and service record.

<span id="case-materials"></span>
==Case materials==
Three case materials appear in the 2940 corpus.

Stainless-steel examples are documented in the Phillips lot and dealer records. Those listings do not establish the material proportions of the original production run.

14K gold-top over steel is the mid-tier configuration. A gold-top case carries a solid gold bezel and top-side of the mid-case with a steel caseback and internal structure. The gold appears on the visible surfaces without the cost of a fully solid gold case. 14K gold-top/steel examples are documented in dealer and auction records; the cited material does not establish a production share or universal price difference.

9K solid-gold examples are documented with British assay marks in the cited material. The available records do not establish their production share or a universal price relationship with steel or gold-top cases.

No 18K gold 2940 appears in the indexed auction record. That absence is not conclusive, and the available records do not define a complete material catalogue.

<span id="the-zell-bros-turtle-variant"></span>
==The Zell Bros Turtle variant==
The Zell Bros “Turtle Perpetual Timer” is a documented retailer-signed 2940 branch. The watch remains a 2940, with the name and dial signature recorded as part of the individual configuration.

The Turtle fits the broader record of retailer-signed Rolex dials in the mid-century US market. The cited sources do not establish how many such 2940s were made.

<span id="auction-and-market-record"></span>
==Auction and market record==
The public auction record cited on this page contains a Phillips California-dial lot and a Heritage salmon-dial lot.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Venue
! Date
! Lot
! Material
! Dial
! Notes
! Result
|-
| Phillips Geneva Watch Auction TWO
| 2015-05-09
| 277
| SS
| Pink California
| c.1941
| '''CHF 10,000''' (est CHF 8,000–12,000)
|-
| Heritage Auctions
| n/a
| n/a
| n/a
| Two-tone salmon
| c.1942
| n/a
|}

Phillips lot 277 was a steel 2940 with a pink California dial. It sold for CHF 10,000 against an estimate of CHF 8,000–12,000. The result belongs to that lot and configuration. Heritage’s salmon-dial lot documents that configuration at auction; its available record is less complete than the Phillips lot.

Dealer listings are not a controlled market series. They should be kept separate from the two cited auction lots when assessing an individual watch.

The cited examples differ in case, movement and dial configuration. Auction results remain tied to each watch's condition, originality, metal and provenance.

<span id="serial-range-observations"></span>
===Serial range observations===
The documented 2940 serial range runs roughly from the low 200,000s into the high 600,000s, which is enough to place examples into a wartime or late-run band even if it does not give exact factory dating.

<span id="collecting-considerations"></span>
==Collecting considerations==
Dial configuration is a major part of assessing a 2940, but the cited lots do not support a general price range. Check the dial, lume, hands, case material and provenance together.

Original-dial diligence on the 2940 is hard. Refinished dials are common, so radium matching, print quality, correct fonts, and any surviving provenance matter a lot more here than they do on easier later references.

A 2940 offered with hooded lugs needs clear between-lug 2940 stamping, case geometry and specialist authentication before its configuration is accepted. The documented standard configuration has squared-off inner lugs.

Case material verification matters at the high end of the market. 14K gold-top/steel and 9K solid gold examples carry substantially different value positions from steel 2940s, and hallmark photography is necessary when assessing a precious-metal listing. Cases that have been replated, regilded, or otherwise worked should be identified as such, and any value comparison should follow verification of the case material.

The cited record is concentrated in specialist and auction listings. Results from different venues are not directly comparable, so each lot should be read with its condition and provenance details.

==Related references==
* [[Reference:3595|Bubbleback 3595]] (1941–1949)
* [[Reference:3065|Bubbleback 3065]] (1937–1950)
* [[Reference:2764|Bubbleback 2764]] (1937–1948)
* [[Reference:3131|Bubbleback 3131]] (1936–1948)
* [[Reference:4467|Bubbleback 4467]] (1945–1949)
* [[Reference:3458|Bubbleback 3458]] (1934–1948)

See also the [[Reference:bubbleback|Bubbleback family index]], [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|bracelet & clasp guide]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial numbers by year]].

<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
File:Ref 2940 hero.webp|1942 stainless-steel 2940
File:Ref 2940 full.webp|Rose-numeral dial example
File:Ref 2940 profile.webp|Bubbleback case profile
File:Ref 2940 dial-detail.webp|Center-seconds dial detail
</gallery>

== Sources ==
* ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' — Colin A. White, Morning Tundra
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/90975 Phillips Geneva Watch Auction TWO, lot 277, Rolex 2940 California dial] — Phillips
* [https://jewelry.ha.com/itm/timepieces/rolex-beautiful-two-tone-salmon-dial-bubbleback-ref-2940-stainless-steel-circa-1942/a/5422-54176.s Heritage Auctions, two-tone salmon dial Bubbleback ref. 2940, lot 54176]
* [https://www.bobswatches.com/rolex-blog/watch-review/rolex-bubble-back.html Bob's Watches — Rolex Bubble Back Collector's Guide] — Bob's Watches
* ''swisswatchexpo bubbleback''
* WatchUSeek — 2940 discussion threads used as collector leads
* [https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/vintagerolexforum/ Vintage Rolex Forum — 2940 hooded debate]
* [https://www.1stdibs.com/ 1stDibs — 2940 listings]
* [https://www.rolexforums.com/~trfcom/showthread.php?t=372044 Rolex Forums, “Another Bubbleback question” — reference 2940 engraving discussion]
* [https://www.rolex.com/oyster-story/visionary-undertaking/at-one-with-movement Rolex Oyster Story: “At one with the movement”]; Rolex, 1931 Perpetual rotor history
* [https://calibercorner.com/ Caliber Corner — 630]

[[Category:Bubbleback]]

Reference:116518

2026-09-29T08:35:32Z

Klaudiusz: Tighten 116518 dial and strap evidence wording

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex Cosmograph Daytona 116518}}
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Daytona 116518 (2000–2015) — Production & Dial Guide | Rolexopedia
|description=Rolex Daytona 116518: yellow gold leather-strap Daytona, 2000–c.2015. 40mm 18k yellow gold case, engraved gold tachymeter bezel, caliber 4130, alligator on deployant clasp, dial branches across champagne, black, MOP, racing, and diamond variants.
|keywords=Rolex 116518, Daytona yellow gold, Cosmograph Daytona, caliber 4130, alligator strap, deployant clasp, MOP dial, racing dial
|image=Ref 116518 hero.webp
|image_alt=Reference 116518 yellow gold Daytona on leather strap with white dial
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|published_time=2026-04-30T03:27:00Z
|modified_time=2026-08-04T00:07:13Z
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
}}

<small>[[Reference:daytona|Daytona]] › '''116518'''</small>

<div class="rp-lead">
[[File:Ref 116518 hero.webp|thumb|center|640px|alt=Rolex Daytona 116518 in 18k yellow gold with white dial and alligator strap|Rolex Daytona 116518 in 18k yellow gold with white dial and alligator strap]]
</div>

The 116518 is the yellow gold, leather-strap Daytona of the in-house cal 4130 generation, the strap-and-deployant counterpart to the bracelet-mounted [[Reference:116528|116528]] and the successor to the Zenith-era [[Reference:16518|16518]]. Produced from 2000 to roughly 2015, it shares the 40mm 18k yellow gold case, engraved gold tachymetre bezel and caliber 4130 movement that run through the rest of the in-house first-generation Daytona line. Its documented factory configuration is a gold case on alligator leather with a yellow-gold deployant clasp; the reference was not sold with the Oyster bracelet used on the 116528.

The 116518 is often compared with its post-2017 successor. Rolex replaced the engraved-gold-bezel leather-strap Daytona with the 116518LN in 2017, using a Cerachrom bezel and Oysterflex strap. This article covers the engraved-gold-bezel leather-strap reference.

==Core facts==
{| class="wikitable rp-facts"
|-
! detail
! value
|-
| reference
| 116518
|-
| family
| Daytona (Cosmograph, automatic)
|-
| production
| 2000 to c. 2015
|-
| case
| 40mm, 18k yellow gold
|-
| crystal
| sapphire (flat)
|-
| bezel
| engraved 18k yellow gold tachymetre
|-
| crown
| Triplock, screw-down, gold
|-
| water resistance
| 100m / 330ft
|-
| movement
| Rolex cal 4130 (first in-house chronograph)
|-
| frequency
| 28,800 vph
|-
| jewels
| 44
|-
| power reserve
| 72 hours
|-
| chronometer
| COSC certified
|-
| strap
| alligator leather (factory original); 18k yellow gold deployant buckle
|-
| siblings
| 116520 (steel), 116523 (Rolesor), 116528 (yellow gold bracelet), 116519 (white gold leather)
|-
| predecessor
| 16518 (Zenith cal 4030, 1988–2000)
|-
| successor
| 116518LN (Cerachrom + Oysterflex, 2017)
|}

==Where it sits in the line==
The 116518 occupies the leather-strap full-gold slot in the cal 4130 launch lineup. Rolex announced five configurations at Baselworld 2000, split by case material and by bracelet-or-strap: the steel 116520 on Oyster, the Rolesor 116523 on Oyster, the yellow gold 116528 on Oyster, the yellow gold 116518 on leather, and the white gold 116519 on leather. The 116518 is the gold-case watch sold on alligator from the factory, with no standard Oyster bracelet option.

The predecessor is the [[Reference:16518|16518]], the Zenith-based cal 4030 yellow gold Daytona on leather that ran from 1988 to 2000. The 2000 transition brought the in-house movement, the 72-hour power reserve and a modernised dial-printing programme, while the case profile, the gold engraved bezel and the leather-strap-with-deployant configuration carried over untouched. The catalogue successor is the 116518LN, which arrived in 2017 with a Cerachrom monobloc black ceramic bezel and an Oysterflex strap. That leaves the 116518 as the last engraved-gold-bezel yellow gold Daytona Rolex delivered on leather.

==Production outline==
The 116518 ran for roughly fifteen years across the same case-serial chronology as the rest of the cal 4130 family. Pre-2010 production used the Rolex letter-prefix system shared across the catalogue; from mid-2010 onward case serials switched to the random eight-character alphanumeric format that has no public year mapping. See [[Reference:Serial-numbers]] for the full key.

The 116518 follows the 116528 chronology, with Luminova at launch, later Super-LumiNova, and Chromalight on later examples. Published sources place the end of production around 2015, before the 116518LN announcement in 2017.

The 116518 does not carry the APH-error dial found on part of 116520 black and white dial production around 2009 to 2010. Phillips's Logan Baker frames the APH misprint as specific to the steel reference's dial-printing batch, and the 116518 catalogue does not record it.

==Movement notes==
Cal 4130 sits inside every 116518, the same movement that powers the 116520, 116523, 116519 and 116528. It runs at 28,800 vph on 44 jewels with a 72-hour reserve and COSC certification, switches through a column wheel, couples the chronograph with a vertical clutch, and carries a blue Parachrom hairspring on later production. Hour and minute counters share a single side of the movement, and the mainspring can be replaced without uncasing.

Caliber 4130 is Rolex's first wholly in-house Daytona chronograph movement. Earlier Daytonas used outside bases: the Valjoux 72 family from 1963 and the Zenith El Primero base in caliber 4030 from 1988. Rolex introduced the 4130 in 2000 across the five-configuration Daytona family, including the leather-strap 116518.

The vertical clutch couples the chronograph with less start-up disturbance than a lateral-clutch design. Dial layout and register positions follow the 4130 architecture, while the 16518 uses the Zenith-based 4030.

For the full caliber lineage and the 4030-to-4130 architecture comparison, see [[Reference:Movements#cal-4130]].

==Dial map==
The 116518 dial catalogue runs broader than the steel 116520's, with the gold case carrying decorative finishes the steel reference never offered.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Dial
! Period
! Distinguishing features
|-
| Champagne with gold markers
| 2000–2015
| Documented standard layout; gold-tone sub-dial rings; applied gold five-minute markers
|-
| Black with red Daytona script
| 2000–2015
| Black base with red "Daytona" above the 6 o'clock sub-register; applied gold markers
|-
| White "Panda" with gold markers
| 2000–2015
| White base, three sub-dials in contrasting tone, applied gold markers
|-
| Mother-of-pearl, white
| mid-to-late production
| White iridescent MOP base with applied gold or Roman markers
|-
| Mother-of-pearl, black
| mid-to-late production
| Dark iridescent MOP base with applied gold or Roman markers
|-
| Mother-of-pearl, Tahitian
| mid-to-late production
| Dark Tahitian MOP base with diamond hour markers on most documented examples
|-
| MOP with diamond markers
| mid-to-late production
| White, black, or Tahitian MOP base with applied factory diamond hour markers
|-
| Champagne with diamond markers
| mid-to-late production
| Champagne base with applied factory diamond hour markers; sub-registers gold-tone
|-
| Black with diamond markers
| mid-to-late production
| Black base with applied factory diamond hour markers
|-
| Roman numeral indices
| sub-variant
| Applied gold Roman numerals at hour positions; available on MOP and standard layouts
|-
| Pavé and pavé-with-coloured-stones
| late production
| Factory pavé with ruby or sapphire accents — case-by-case authentication required
|}

Karyn Orrico's "Vintage Rolex Daytona: The Gold Standard" (Sotheby's, 2024) catalogues white Panda and diamond-set hour-marker examples on the caliber-4030 16518. Similar dial treatments are documented on 116518 examples, but the cited material does not establish a complete carry-over list or production sequence. Mother-of-pearl dials with Roman numerals appear in forum and auction records. Gem-set layouts require separate checks because the records do not always distinguish factory setting from later work.

==Case, bezel, crystal, and crown==
The 116518 case is 40mm in 18k yellow gold, the same nominal dimension as the steel 116520. Lugs and case flanks carry the cal 4130 family profile, with crown guards integrated into the case and the 700-series Triplock screw-down crown at 3 o'clock. Water resistance is 100m / 330ft, identical to the steel reference. Case thickness on documented examples runs to roughly 12.4mm, marginally thicker than the steel 116520's measured profile, which is put down to the gold-forging tolerances Rolex used through the cal 4130 run.

The bezel is engraved 18k yellow gold with the tachymetre scale, and it stays that way through the full production. Cerachrom did not reach the yellow gold leather Daytona until the 116518LN in 2017. The bezel font matches the wider cal 4130 family, with the tachymetre numerals running from 60 to 400 around the ring.

The crystal is flat sapphire with no Cyclops, and the running-seconds sub-dial sits at 6 o'clock. The Triplock crown handles the 100m water rating. Screw-down chronograph pushers flank the crown and must be unscrewed before the chronograph starts. Finishing is mixed, with polished bezel and case flanks and brushed lug tops. Heavy polishing should be recorded when assessing an individual case.

==Bracelets, end links, and clasps==
The 116518 is a leather-strap reference. Every documented original-equipment example shipped on alligator leather with an 18k yellow gold deployant buckle. The 116518 was sold on leather; the factory Oyster-bracelet configuration is the [[Reference:116528|116528]]. Gold Oyster conversions appear on individual watches and require separate fitment and service-history evidence.

The preceding 16518 used fixed gold end pieces between case and strap, a precious-metal Daytona detail the steel references never carried. The 116518 inherits the same originality burden. A correct watch head can sit on a replaced strap, end-link or deployant, so each component has to be verified on its own.

The deployant buckle is 18k yellow gold throughout the run, in the standard Rolex deployant geometry of the period. Strap material was always alligator from Rolex, with black, brown and burgundy as standard colours and other tones available through the catalogue. Leather straps are consumable components and are often replaced. A Rolex-stamped strap with the original deployant supports period-correct fitment; a later replacement strap can still sit on an original deployant, while a complete strap-and-deployant set requires component-level verification.

Third-party rubber straps appear on some surviving watches and do not by themselves change the watch-head reference. Auction descriptions differ on whether the original deployant is present, so the strap and clasp should be recorded separately.

For the wider Daytona bracelet and clasp reference chronology, see [[Reference:Bracelets]]. The 116518's leather-and-deployant configuration is documented inside David Boettcher's broader Daytona bracelet reference at vintagewatchstraps.com.

==Special branches==
===Tiffany & Co. and other double-signed dials===
Published evidence for double-signed 116518 dials is sparse. A six-digit signature should be supported by original-sale documentation or a major-house catalogue. Tiffany, Cartier and Vacheron signatures are better documented on earlier Daytona references; no 116518-specific lot in the cited sources provides a comparable anchor.

===Beach dial sub-branches===
The pastel mother-of-pearl "beach dial" family that runs on the cal 4030 16518 — pink MOP, salmon MOP, pale blue MOP — carries forward into early 116518 production according to some dealer and auction catalogue copy, though the cal 4130 layouts read as a narrower set than the Zenith-era variants. Per-dial volume on the 116518 beach-dial branch is not documented in the major-house literature, so individual examples have to be authenticated against period documentation.

===Diamond, pavé, and gem-set layouts===
Diamond hour markers are documented on champagne, black and MOP 116518 dials. Pavé and pavé-with-coloured-stone layouts are also reported, but the cited material does not consistently distinguish factory setting from later work. Any pavé example needs case-by-case authentication against a named lot or original-sale record.

==Auction record==
The cited auction record contains four Antiquorum lots. A mother-of-pearl dial (case P594357, circa 2001) sold for EUR 16,250 against a EUR 14,000–18,000 estimate in July 2019. A black dial with diamond indexes (case 963L4944) brought HK$225,000 against an HK$180,000–280,000 estimate in June 2023. A white “Panda” dial (case M227027, 2011) made EUR 24,700 against a EUR 15,000–25,000 estimate in July 2023. A black dial (case Y942608, 2003, with a 2022 Rolex service warranty) sold for CHF 23,750 against an CHF 18,000–24,000 estimate in May 2024. Each lot is recorded with the factory leather-and-yellow-gold-deployant configuration.

The 116518LN arrived in 2017. The four cited 116518 results span 2019–2024 and are not enough to infer a relationship between the two references or a general premium for any dial branch.

==Related references==
* [[Reference:116520|Daytona 116520]] (Steel, Cal. 4130, 2000–2016)
* [[Reference:116528|Daytona 116528]] (2000–2016)
* [[Reference:116505|Daytona 116505]] (Everose Gold, 2008–2023)
* [[Reference:116500LN|Daytona 116500LN]] (Ceramic bezel, 2016–2023)
* [[Reference:116508|Daytona 116508]] (Yellow gold, Cal. 4130, 2016–2023)
* [[Reference:16519|Daytona 16519]] (White gold Zenith, 1989–2000)

See also the [[Reference:daytona|Daytona family index]], [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|bracelet & clasp guide]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial numbers by year]].

== Sources ==
* ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' — Colin A. White, Morning Tundra
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/articles/vintage-rolex-daytona-the-gold-standard Karyn Orrico, "Vintage Rolex Daytona: The Gold Standard", Sotheby's, 2024-12-17]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/articles/the-rolex-daytona-zenith-a-sothebys-guide Karyn Orrico, "Rolex Daytona Zenith: The Essential Guide", Sotheby's, 2025-11-03]
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/history-rolex-daytona-chronograph-1963-in-depth-review/ Erik Slaven, "In-Depth: The History of the Rolex Daytona, The Emblematic Racing Chronograph", Monochrome, 2024-12-20]
* [https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-vintage-watch-nerds-critical-dissection-of-the-rolex-daytona-past-to-present-part-33 Paul Boutros, "In-Depth: A Vintage Watch Nerd's Critical Dissection of the Rolex Daytona, Past to Present (Part 3/3)", Hodinkee, 2013-03]
* [https://revolutionwatch.com/a-movement-in-history-the-zenith-driven-rolex-daytona/ Ross Povey, "A Movement in History: The Zenith-driven Rolex Daytona", Revolution Watch, 2018-09-03]
* [https://www.fratellowatches.com/new-rolex-daytona-2016-what-changed/ "New Rolex Daytona 2016 - What Changed", Fratello, 2016-01-01]
* [https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-daytona-ref-116500ln-review Jack Forster, "A Week On The Wrist: The Rolex Daytona Ref. 116500LN", Hodinkee, 2020-01-01]
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/rolex-daytona-116500ln-steel-cerachrom-black-bezel-live-photos-price/ Frank Geelen, "Rolex Daytona 116500LN in steel with Cerachrom black bezel Hands-On", Monochrome, 2016-03-17]
* [https://revolutionwatch.com/hard-to-thrill/ Revolution editorial, "Hard to Thrill", Revolution, 2017-06-20]
* [https://www.vintagewatchstraps.com/ David Boettcher, "Vintage Watch Straps — Rolex bracelet and clasp reference", vintagewatchstraps.com, 2026-04-18]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-116518-daytona-lot-322-261?browse_all=1 Rolex Ref. 116518 Daytona, MOP dial, lot 261, Antiquorum Monaco, 2019-07-16]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-116518-daytona-lot-361-116?browse_all=1 Rolex Ref. 116518 Daytona, black dial diamond indexes, lot 116, Antiquorum Hong Kong, 2023-06-13]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-116518-daytona-lot-362-194?browse_all=1 Rolex Ref. 116518 Daytona "Panda" dial, lot 194, Antiquorum Monaco, 2023-07-25]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-116518-cosmograph-daytona-lot-368-115?browse_all=1 Rolex Ref. 116518 Cosmograph Daytona, black dial, lot 115, Antiquorum Geneva, 2024-05-11]
* [https://www.rolex.com/en-us/watches/cosmograph-daytona/beyond-the-racetrack Cosmograph Daytona history]; Rolex, caliber 4130 and 2017 Oysterflex chronology

[[Category:Daytona]]