Reference:1680 - Revision history

Klaudiusz: Deep audit: ground 1680 dial branches, remove market slop, add sources and gallery

2026-09-29T01:55:41Z

Deep audit: ground 1680 dial branches, remove market slop, add sources and gallery

Klaudiusz: Deep correctness, grounding, image and anti-slop audit: qualify 1680 chronology, movement, dial marks, patina, service parts, special branches, auction and market claims.

2026-09-28T16:31:53Z

Deep correctness, grounding, image and anti-slop audit: qualify 1680 chronology, movement, dial marks, patina, service parts, special branches, auction and market claims.

Show changes

Admin: Place orphaned feet-first Red Sub hero image in Red Submariner dials gallery

2026-09-14T04:46:23Z

Place orphaned feet-first Red Sub hero image in Red Submariner dials gallery

← Older revision		Revision as of 04:46, 14 September 2026
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	File:Ref 1680 dial-marks-comparison.webp\|alt=Red Submariner 1680 on period NATO strap\|Red Submariner 1680 on period NATO strap		File:Ref 1680 dial-marks-comparison.webp\|alt=Red Submariner 1680 on period NATO strap\|Red Submariner 1680 on period NATO strap
	File:Ref 1680 dial-variant-red-feet-first.webp\|alt=Red Submariner dial — feet-first depth rating variant\|Red Submariner dial — feet-first depth rating variant		File:Ref 1680 dial-variant-red-feet-first.webp\|alt=Red Submariner dial — feet-first depth rating variant\|Red Submariner dial — feet-first depth rating variant
			File:Ref 1680 hero.webp\|alt=Feet-first Red Submariner 1680 on Oyster bracelet\|Feet-first Red Submariner 1680 on Oyster bracelet
	</gallery>		</gallery>

Admin: Convert 2 legacy image(s) to WebP

2026-09-14T01:19:56Z

Convert 2 legacy image(s) to WebP

← Older revision		Revision as of 01:19, 14 September 2026
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	<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">		<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
	File:~~Ref 1680 dial~~-~~detail 2~~.~~jpg~~\|alt=Matte white-dial 1680 on the wrist\|Matte white-dial 1680 on the wrist		File:Ref_1680_dial-detail_2.webp\|alt=Matte white-dial 1680 on the wrist\|Matte white-dial 1680 on the wrist
	File:Ref 1680 dial-detail-white.webp\|alt=White Submariner dial — all-white text, post-Red era\|White Submariner dial — all-white text, post-Red era		File:Ref 1680 dial-detail-white.webp\|alt=White Submariner dial — all-white text, post-Red era\|White Submariner dial — all-white text, post-Red era
	</gallery>		</gallery>
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	<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">		<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
	File:~~Ref 1680 wrist~~-shot.~~jpg~~\|alt=White Sub 1680 in hand — collector example\|White Sub 1680 in hand — collector example		File:Ref_1680_wrist-shot.webp\|alt=White Sub 1680 in hand — collector example\|White Sub 1680 in hand — collector example
	File:Ref 1680 hero 3.webp\|alt=1680 on the wrist with Oyster bracelet\|1680 on the wrist with Oyster bracelet		File:Ref 1680 hero 3.webp\|alt=1680 on the wrist with Oyster bracelet\|1680 on the wrist with Oyster bracelet
	</gallery>		</gallery>

Admin: Prose review: remove research commentary, inflated claims and repetitive phrasing

2026-09-12T04:28:11Z

Prose review: remove research commentary, inflated claims and repetitive phrasing

Klaudiusz: Text audit: voice, clarity, source links

2026-09-07T04:30:54Z

Text audit: voice, clarity, source links

← Older revision		Revision as of 04:30, 7 September 2026
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	</gallery>		</gallery>

	Two named-signature commissions land on the 1680 dial. Both are scarce, and both ~~are documented in the auction record rather than only in market lore~~.		Two named-signature commissions land on the 1680 dial. Both are scarce, and real auction lots document both examples.

	Sultan Qaboos bin Said al Said commissioned a run of 1680s with his personal signature near six o'clock, ordered through Asprey London for presentation to dignitaries and senior officials. Phillips's "Royal Provenance: Four Exceptional 'Khanjar' Wristwatches" essay frames the broader Sultan-of-Oman commission program; Phillips Geneva FIVE 2017 lot 83, a yellow-gold 1680 with Khanjar dial, anchors the high tier of the branch. Steel signature examples sit a tier below in the auction record. Ross Povey's ''Bourn in Oman: The Rolex Collection'' (Revolution, January 2023) traces the commission cadence through Asprey and Khimji Ramdas.		Sultan Qaboos bin Said al Said commissioned a run of 1680s with his personal signature near six o'clock, ordered through Asprey London for presentation to dignitaries and senior officials. Phillips's "Royal Provenance: Four Exceptional 'Khanjar' Wristwatches" essay frames the broader Sultan-of-Oman commission program; Phillips Geneva FIVE 2017 lot 83, a yellow-gold 1680 with Khanjar dial, anchors the high tier of the branch. Steel signature examples sit a tier below in the auction record. Ross Povey's ''Bourn in Oman: The Rolex Collection'' (Revolution, January 2023) traces the commission cadence through Asprey and Khimji Ramdas.

	The Hafez al-Assad signature dial places the late President of Syria's name in red Arabic script above the depth wording. Sotheby's Dubai 2019 lot 97 sold a c.1988 Explorer II 16550 with the same signature, framing the Assad commission as a small batch spread across reference families; the 1680 examples are even rarer. Quill & Pad's coverage of Khanjar and signature dials works through how collectors weigh watches tied to politically heavy commissioners, which is the frame most buyers end up applying to Assad-signed examples.		The Hafez al-Assad signature dial places the late President of Syria's name in red Arabic script above the depth wording. Sotheby's Dubai 2019 lot 97 sold a c.1988 Explorer II 16550 with the same signature, framing the Assad commission as a small batch spread across reference families; the 1680 examples are even rarer.

	<span id="historical-market-and-auction-record"></span>		<span id="historical-market-and-auction-record"></span>

Admin: Layout: remove duplicate hero-style image floating above Core facts (kept in lead only)

2026-09-07T01:49:26Z

Layout: remove duplicate hero-style image floating above Core facts (kept in lead only)

← Older revision		Revision as of 01:49, 7 September 2026
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	<span id="core-facts"></span>		<span id="core-facts"></span>

	~~[[File:Ref 1680 hero.webp\|thumb\|right\|250px\|alt=Rolex Submariner 1680 — the first Submariner Date\|Rolex Submariner 1680 — the first Submariner Date]]~~

	== Core facts ==		== Core facts ==

Klaudiusz: Galleries: convert 5 in-section image cluster(s) to comparison galleries (same files, same captions)

2026-09-07T00:07:04Z

Galleries: convert 5 in-section image cluster(s) to comparison galleries (same files, same captions)

← Older revision		Revision as of 00:07, 7 September 2026
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	=== Red Submariner dials ===		=== Red Submariner dials ===

	[[File:Ref 1680 dial-marks-comparison.webp~~\|thumb\|right\|250px~~\|alt=Red Submariner 1680 on period NATO strap\|Red Submariner 1680 on period NATO strap]]		<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
	[[File:Ref 1680 dial-variant-red-feet-first.webp~~\|thumb\|right\|220px~~\|alt=Red Submariner dial — feet-first depth rating variant\|Red Submariner dial — feet-first depth rating variant]]		File:Ref 1680 dial-marks-comparison.webp\|alt=Red Submariner 1680 on period NATO strap\|Red Submariner 1680 on period NATO strap
			File:Ref 1680 dial-variant-red-feet-first.webp\|alt=Red Submariner dial — feet-first depth rating variant\|Red Submariner dial — feet-first depth rating variant
			</gallery>

	“Red Sub” is the standard collector term for early 1680 dials where the word “Submariner” appears in red.		“Red Sub” is the standard collector term for early 1680 dials where the word “Submariner” appears in red.
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	=== White Submariner dials ===		=== White Submariner dials ===

	[[File:Ref 1680 dial-detail 2.jpg~~\|thumb\|right\|250px~~\|alt=Matte white-dial 1680 on the wrist\|Matte white-dial 1680 on the wrist]]		<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
	[[File:Ref 1680 dial-detail-white.webp~~\|thumb\|right\|220px~~\|alt=White Submariner dial — all-white text, post-Red era\|White Submariner dial — all-white text, post-Red era]]		File:Ref 1680 dial-detail 2.jpg\|alt=Matte white-dial 1680 on the wrist\|Matte white-dial 1680 on the wrist
			File:Ref 1680 dial-detail-white.webp\|alt=White Submariner dial — all-white text, post-Red era\|White Submariner dial — all-white text, post-Red era
			</gallery>

	After the red-text era, the word “Submariner” switched to white. White-text 1680 dials appear from about serial 4.0M onward: matte black with white text throughout and a feet-first depth line. The visual language starts converging with the successor 16800 from here.		After the red-text era, the word “Submariner” switched to white. White-text 1680 dials appear from about serial 4.0M onward: matte black with white text throughout and a feet-first depth line. The visual language starts converging with the successor 16800 from here.
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	== Special branches ==		== Special branches ==

	[[File:Ref 1680 wrist-shot.jpg~~\|thumb\|right\|250px~~\|alt=White Sub 1680 in hand — collector example\|White Sub 1680 in hand — collector example]]		<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
	[[File:Ref 1680 hero 3.webp~~\|thumb\|right\|250px~~\|alt=1680 on the wrist with Oyster bracelet\|1680 on the wrist with Oyster bracelet]]		File:Ref 1680 wrist-shot.jpg\|alt=White Sub 1680 in hand — collector example\|White Sub 1680 in hand — collector example
			File:Ref 1680 hero 3.webp\|alt=1680 on the wrist with Oyster bracelet\|1680 on the wrist with Oyster bracelet
			</gallery>

	<span id="gold-submariner-16808"></span>		<span id="gold-submariner-16808"></span>
	=== Gold Submariner (1680/8) ===		=== Gold Submariner (1680/8) ===

	[[File:Ref 1680 dial-detail-gold.webp~~\|thumb\|right\|220px~~\|alt=18k gold 1680/8 Nipple dial\|18k gold 1680/8 Nipple dial]]		<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
	[[File:Ref 1680 dial-detail-gold 2.webp~~\|thumb\|right\|220px~~\|alt=18k gold 1680/8 blue dial\|18k gold 1680/8 blue dial]]		File:Ref 1680 dial-detail-gold.webp\|alt=18k gold 1680/8 Nipple dial\|18k gold 1680/8 Nipple dial
			File:Ref 1680 dial-detail-gold 2.webp\|alt=18k gold 1680/8 blue dial\|18k gold 1680/8 blue dial
			</gallery>

	The 1680/8 is the first solid yellow gold Submariner. It entered production in the same year as the steel 1680. The gold version came first with a black dial, later with a blue dial and matching blue bezel. Some examples carry a “nipple dial” with applied gold markers that have raised dots at center.		The 1680/8 is the first solid yellow gold Submariner. It entered production in the same year as the steel 1680. The gold version came first with a black dial, later with a blue dial and matching blue bezel. Some examples carry a “nipple dial” with applied gold markers that have raised dots at center.
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	=== Government and signature commission dials ===		=== Government and signature commission dials ===

	[[File:Ref 1680 government-oman-qaboos-signature.webp~~\|thumb\|right\|220px~~\|alt=1680 with Sultan Qaboos bin Said signature dial\|1680 with Sultan Qaboos bin Said signature dial]]		<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
	[[File:Ref 1680 government-syria-assad-signature.webp~~\|thumb\|right\|220px~~\|alt=1680 with Hafez al-Assad signature in red Arabic above 6 o'clock\|1680 with Hafez al-Assad signature in red Arabic above 6 o'clock]]		File:Ref 1680 government-oman-qaboos-signature.webp\|alt=1680 with Sultan Qaboos bin Said signature dial\|1680 with Sultan Qaboos bin Said signature dial
			File:Ref 1680 government-syria-assad-signature.webp\|alt=1680 with Hafez al-Assad signature in red Arabic above 6 o'clock\|1680 with Hafez al-Assad signature in red Arabic above 6 o'clock
			</gallery>

	Two named-signature commissions land on the 1680 dial. Both are scarce, and both are documented in the auction record rather than only in market lore.		Two named-signature commissions land on the 1680 dial. Both are scarce, and both are documented in the auction record rather than only in market lore.

Admin: Layout: 3 image(s) moved into subsections

2026-09-06T23:03:36Z

Layout: 3 image(s) moved into subsections

← Older revision		Revision as of 23:03, 6 September 2026
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	<span id="dial-map"></span>		<span id="dial-map"></span>
	== Dial map ==		== Dial map ==

	~~[[File:Ref 1680 dial-marks-comparison.webp\|thumb\|right\|250px\|alt=Red Submariner 1680 on period NATO strap\|Red Submariner 1680 on period NATO strap]]~~

	<span id="red-submariner-dials"></span>		<span id="red-submariner-dials"></span>
	~~[[File:Ref 1680 dial-detail 2.jpg\|thumb\|right\|250px\|alt=Matte white-dial 1680 on the wrist\|Matte white-dial 1680 on the wrist]]~~

	=== Red Submariner dials ===		=== Red Submariner dials ===

			[[File:Ref 1680 dial-marks-comparison.webp\|thumb\|right\|250px\|alt=Red Submariner 1680 on period NATO strap\|Red Submariner 1680 on period NATO strap]]
	[[File:Ref 1680 dial-variant-red-feet-first.webp\|thumb\|right\|220px\|alt=Red Submariner dial — feet-first depth rating variant\|Red Submariner dial — feet-first depth rating variant]]		[[File:Ref 1680 dial-variant-red-feet-first.webp\|thumb\|right\|220px\|alt=Red Submariner dial — feet-first depth rating variant\|Red Submariner dial — feet-first depth rating variant]]

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	=== White Submariner dials ===		=== White Submariner dials ===

			[[File:Ref 1680 dial-detail 2.jpg\|thumb\|right\|250px\|alt=Matte white-dial 1680 on the wrist\|Matte white-dial 1680 on the wrist]]
	[[File:Ref 1680 dial-detail-white.webp\|thumb\|right\|220px\|alt=White Submariner dial — all-white text, post-Red era\|White Submariner dial — all-white text, post-Red era]]		[[File:Ref 1680 dial-detail-white.webp\|thumb\|right\|220px\|alt=White Submariner dial — all-white text, post-Red era\|White Submariner dial — all-white text, post-Red era]]

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	<span id="case-bezel-crystal-and-crown"></span>		<span id="case-bezel-crystal-and-crown"></span>
	== Case, bezel, crystal, and crown ==		== Case, bezel, crystal, and crown ==

	~~[[File:Ref 1680 caseback.webp\|thumb\|right\|250px\|alt=Smooth screw-down caseback\|Smooth screw-down caseback]]~~

	<span id="crown-types"></span>		<span id="crown-types"></span>
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	=== Caseback date codes ===		=== Caseback date codes ===

			[[File:Ref 1680 caseback.webp\|thumb\|right\|250px\|alt=Smooth screw-down caseback\|Smooth screw-down caseback]]
	From about serial 2M through 3.4M, casebacks were stamped with a production date code on the inside surface. These codes record the quarter and year, beginning at “II 69” (second quarter 1969) and ending at “II 72” (second quarter 1972). Around serial 3M, the practice stopped. All watches from 1973 onward carry no caseback date code.		From about serial 2M through 3.4M, casebacks were stamped with a production date code on the inside surface. These codes record the quarter and year, beginning at “II 69” (second quarter 1969) and ending at “II 72” (second quarter 1972). Around serial 3M, the practice stopped. All watches from 1973 onward carry no caseback date code.

Admin: Layout: hero inserted

2026-09-06T22:24:39Z

Layout: hero inserted

← Older revision		Revision as of 22:24, 6 September 2026
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	<small>[[Reference:submariner\|Submariner]] › '''1680'''</small>		<small>[[Reference:submariner\|Submariner]] › '''1680'''</small>

			<div class="rp-lead">
			[[File:Ref 1680 hero 2.webp\|thumb\|center\|640px\|alt=Rolex Submariner 1680\|Rolex Submariner 1680]]
			</div>

	The 1680 is the first Submariner with a date window. It entered production around 1969 and ran until somewhere between 1979 and 1981, depending on the source. Inside sits caliber 1575, the same date movement Rolex was already running in the Datejust and GMT-Master. The case is the familiar 40mm Oyster with crown guards, now with a date aperture at 3 o’clock and an acrylic crystal carrying a Cyclops magnifier.		The 1680 is the first Submariner with a date window. It entered production around 1969 and ran until somewhere between 1979 and 1981, depending on the source. Inside sits caliber 1575, the same date movement Rolex was already running in the Datejust and GMT-Master. The case is the familiar 40mm Oyster with crown guards, now with a date aperture at 3 o’clock and an acrylic crystal carrying a Cyclops magnifier.

← Older revision		Revision as of 04:28, 12 September 2026
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	== Production outline ==		== Production outline ==

	The 1680 splits into two halves. The Red Sub era runs roughly 1969 to 1975, with the word Submariner printed in red. Collector shorthand divides these dials into six Marks based on text differences. The White Sub era runs from about 1975 to 1979 or 1981, with Submariner printed in white to match the rest of the dial text. ~~The white branch carries less of~~ the ~~romance~~, ~~but it is the reference in its most~~ standardized ~~form~~.		The 1680 splits into two halves. The Red Sub era runs roughly 1969 to 1975, with the word Submariner printed in red. Collector shorthand divides these dials into six Marks based on text differences. The White Sub era runs from about 1975 to 1979 or 1981, with Submariner printed in white to match the rest of the dial text. White-text watches represent the later, more standardized production.

	The production end date is not settled. Tom Mulraney’s Monochrome history of the Submariner gives 1979; Colin A. White’s ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' gives about 1981. The gap probably comes down to whether the count ends at the last serial band or the last retail delivery.		The production end date is not settled. Tom Mulraney’s Monochrome history of the Submariner gives 1979; Colin A. White’s ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' gives about 1981. The gap probably comes down to whether the count ends at the last serial band or the last retail delivery.
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	Mark II (about 2.2M–2.45M, simultaneous with Mark III). Meters first. Red lettering is printed on a white background layer, the same method as Mark I. The “6” is open. The font is thinner than Mark III and the “F” is longer. Dials appear in black and brown (tropical). The key to separating Mark II from Mark III is the printing method. A visible white underlayer beneath the red lettering means Mark II.		Mark II (about 2.2M–2.45M, simultaneous with Mark III). Meters first. Red lettering is printed on a white background layer, the same method as Mark I. The “6” is open. The font is thinner than Mark III and the “F” is longer. Dials appear in black and brown (tropical). The key to separating Mark II from Mark III is the printing method. A visible white underlayer beneath the red lettering means Mark II.

	Mark III (about 2.2M–2.45M, simultaneous with Mark II). Still meters first. The red text is printed directly on the dial, without the white underlayer seen on Mark II. The “6” is open, the font is generally heavier, and the “F” is shorter. Black and tropical brown examples are both documented. ~~The important point is~~ overlap~~: serial alone will not split~~ Mark II from Mark III~~. The print stack does~~. White beneath the red points to Mark II; red on the dial surface points to Mark III.		Mark III (about 2.2M–2.45M, simultaneous with Mark II). Still meters first. The red text is printed directly on the dial, without the white underlayer seen on Mark II. The “6” is open, the font is generally heavier, and the “F” is shorter. Black and tropical brown examples are both documented. Because their serial ranges overlap, the printing distinguishes Mark II from Mark III. White beneath the red points to Mark II; red on the dial surface points to Mark III.

	Mark IV (about 2.45M–3.xM serials, produced 1972–1973). The earliest feet-first dial. Red “Submariner” text is printed on a white underlayer, and the white base is visible at the edges under magnification. The “6” in “660” is widely open. The first “E” in “Chronometer” aligns vertically with the “D” in “Certified.” The “F” in “Ft” has an angular design. The Rolex crown oval opening is pointed with low branch bases. Bright red color intensity.		Mark IV (about 2.45M–3.xM serials, produced 1972–1973). The earliest feet-first dial. Red “Submariner” text is printed on a white underlayer, and the white base is visible at the edges under magnification. The “6” in “660” is widely open. The first “E” in “Chronometer” aligns vertically with the “D” in “Certified.” The “F” in “Ft” has an angular design. The Rolex crown oval opening is pointed with low branch bases. Bright red color intensity.
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	Mark VI (about 3.xM–4.0M serials, produced 1972–1975). Feet first. Red lettering printed directly on black dial surface. The “6” in “660” is closed, the only feet-first dial with closed sixes, making it immediately identifiable. The “S” in “Submariner” has a distinctly rounded appearance. Red is bright with thicker paint application than Mark V. The first “E” in “Superlative” aligns vertically with the “O” in “Officially.” The Rolex crown oval opening is rounded with low branch bases. This is the last production red-text Mark and the least rare of the feet-first variants (rarity rated at 1 out of 5).		Mark VI (about 3.xM–4.0M serials, produced 1972–1975). Feet first. Red lettering printed directly on black dial surface. The “6” in “660” is closed, the only feet-first dial with closed sixes, making it immediately identifiable. The “S” in “Submariner” has a distinctly rounded appearance. Red is bright with thicker paint application than Mark V. The first “E” in “Superlative” aligns vertically with the “O” in “Officially.” The Rolex crown oval opening is rounded with low branch bases. This is the last production red-text Mark and the least rare of the feet-first variants (rarity rated at 1 out of 5).

	Luminova service dial (Mark VII in some frameworks, sometimes called Mark VIII). Not a production dial. The text at the bottom reads only “SWISS,” with no depth rating. The lume glows brightly with Luminova rather than dimly with aged tritium. A ~~Red Sub wearing this~~ dial ~~has had its collecting identity erased by a service replacement;~~ the text ~~on the~~ dial ~~is what collectors pay for, and the Luminova replacement removes it~~.		Luminova service dial (Mark VII in some frameworks, sometimes called Mark VIII). Not a production dial. The text at the bottom reads only “SWISS,” with no depth rating. The lume glows brightly with Luminova rather than dimly with aged tritium. A service dial reduces the premium attached to an original red-text dial.

	<span id="brown-and-chocolate-dials"></span>		<span id="brown-and-chocolate-dials"></span>
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	Aftermarket and outright fakes are the worst case and the simplest to handle. Fake dials usually travel with other fake parts, so one fake signals a broader problem. Walk away rather than try to buy around the dial.		Aftermarket and outright fakes are the worst case and the simplest to handle. Fake dials usually travel with other fake parts, so one fake signals a broader problem. Walk away rather than try to buy around the dial.

	Refinished dials keep the original Rolex substrate but have had the printed and lumed material stripped and redone, usually poorly. Sellers who describe these as original Rolex dials are accurate only about the metal backing. ~~Everything collectors pay for on~~ a Red ~~Sub lives~~ in ~~the~~ original printing and lume, so ~~a refinished dial is worthless for collecting purposes~~. They are not always obvious; font detail and lume depth are where the inspection goes.		Refinished dials keep the original Rolex substrate but have had the printed and lumed material stripped and redone, usually poorly. Sellers who describe these as original Rolex dials are accurate only about the metal backing. Collectors place much of a Red Sub’s value in its original printing and lume, so refinishing substantially reduces its value. They are not always obvious; font detail and lume depth are where the inspection goes.

	Relumed dials keep original printing but carry replaced lume in the plots. They take a steep discount and read as less attractive than factory tritium regardless of the replacement material. The giveaway is lume that looks fresh, sits too high or too uniformly, or glows too brightly for a watch of this age.		Relumed dials keep original printing but carry replaced lume in the plots. They take a steep discount and read as less attractive than factory tritium regardless of the replacement material. The giveaway is lume that looks fresh, sits too high or too uniformly, or glows too brightly for a watch of this age.

	Luminova service dials went on at Rolex when the original was damaged. They read only SWISS at the bottom, with no depth rating, and the lume glows bright Luminova rather than dim aged tritium. ~~The part~~ is an authorized Rolex ~~part~~, but the ~~watch’s identity as a Red Sub goes with the~~ original dial~~, and no Red Sub premium is owed on one~~.		Luminova service dials went on at Rolex when the original was damaged. They read only SWISS at the bottom, with no depth rating, and the lume glows bright Luminova rather than dim aged tritium. It is an authorized Rolex replacement, but does not carry the premium of an original red-text dial.

	Red-to-white service replacement matters more than any other dial swap on the 1680. During service, Rolex often replaced red-text dials with white-text service dials. That means a white-dial 1680 in the right serial and caseback range may have started life as a Red Sub. It helps explain why original red dials are scarcer than production totals suggest, and why untouched Red Subs command such strong premiums.		Red-to-white service replacement matters more than any other dial swap on the 1680. During service, Rolex often replaced red-text dials with white-text service dials. That means a white-dial 1680 in the right serial and caseback range may have started life as a Red Sub. It helps explain why original red dials are scarcer than production totals suggest, and why untouched Red Subs command such strong premiums.
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	The 7206 with 80 end pieces is the earliest fitment, found on early Red Subs. Riveted construction.		The 7206 with 80 end pieces is the earliest fitment, found on early Red Subs. Riveted construction.

	The 9315 folded link bracelet with 280 or 380 end pieces is ~~the one serious collectors consider correct for the~~ Red Sub. The 9315 was manufactured until the late 1970s. 9315 is stamped on the links just before the end piece; end pieces carry 280 or 380 stamps; clasp date stamps range from 67 to 72, and an unstamped clasp is post-1973. The rarest version is the Patent Pending variant produced about 1967–1970: when the diver extension is unfolded, Pat Pend is stamped inside. Patent Pending 9315 bracelets are actively sought and command premiums over standard examples.		The 9315 folded link bracelet with 280 or 380 end pieces is a documented Red Sub fitment. The 9315 was manufactured until the late 1970s. 9315 is stamped on the links just before the end piece; end pieces carry 280 or 380 stamps; clasp date stamps range from 67 to 72, and an unstamped clasp is post-1973. The rarest version is the Patent Pending variant produced about 1967–1970: when the diver extension is unfolded, Pat Pend is stamped inside. Patent Pending 9315 bracelets are actively sought and command premiums over standard examples.

	USA Made Riveted bracelets turn up on some original-owner watches. No model number stamped on the bracelet, no diver extension, no flip lock. End pieces are not separately stamped. The clasp carries date stamps. These were made in the United States rather than Switzerland.		USA Made Riveted bracelets turn up on some original-owner watches. No model number stamped on the bracelet, no diver extension, no flip lock. End pieces are not separately stamped. The clasp carries date stamps. These were made in the United States rather than Switzerland.
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	</gallery>		</gallery>

	Two named-signature commissions land on the 1680 dial. Both are scarce~~, and real auction lots document both examples~~.		Two named-signature commissions land on the 1680 dial. Both are scarce.

	Sultan Qaboos bin Said al Said commissioned a run of 1680s with his personal signature near six o'clock, ordered through Asprey London for presentation to dignitaries and senior officials. Phillips's "Royal Provenance: Four Exceptional 'Khanjar' Wristwatches" essay frames the broader Sultan-of-Oman commission program; Phillips Geneva FIVE 2017 lot 83, a yellow-gold 1680 with Khanjar dial, anchors the high tier of the branch. Steel signature examples sit a tier below in the auction record. Ross Povey's ''Bourn in Oman: The Rolex Collection'' (Revolution, January 2023) traces the commission cadence through Asprey and Khimji Ramdas.		Sultan Qaboos bin Said al Said commissioned a run of 1680s with his personal signature near six o'clock, ordered through Asprey London for presentation to dignitaries and senior officials. Phillips's "Royal Provenance: Four Exceptional 'Khanjar' Wristwatches" essay frames the broader Sultan-of-Oman commission program; Phillips Geneva FIVE 2017 lot 83, a yellow-gold 1680 with Khanjar dial, anchors the high tier of the branch. Steel signature examples sit a tier below in the auction record. Ross Povey's ''Bourn in Oman: The Rolex Collection'' (Revolution, January 2023) traces the commission cadence through Asprey and Khimji Ramdas.
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	[[File:Ref 1680 historical-example.webp\|thumb\|right\|250px\|alt=Collector-grade 1680 example\|Collector-grade 1680 example]]		[[File:Ref 1680 historical-example.webp\|thumb\|right\|250px\|alt=Collector-grade 1680 example\|Collector-grade 1680 example]]

	The 1680 sits alongside the 5512 and 5513 as one of the three most popular vintage Submariner references. ~~Within the 1680, the~~ Red ~~Sub is~~ the collector ~~magnet~~.		The 1680 sits alongside the 5512 and 5513 as one of the three most popular vintage Submariner references. Red-text dials attract much of the collector interest.

	Within the reference, the market hierarchy runs from early Red Subs with meters-first dials (Mark I, II, III), especially chocolate or tropical examples, down through later feet-first Red Subs (Mark IV, V, VI), then the COMEX 1680 (extremely rare and a separate collecting tier), the gold 1680/8 (its own luxury category), and finally the white-text 1680, which is the accessible entry point into vintage Submariner Date collecting.		Within the reference, the market hierarchy runs from early Red Subs with meters-first dials (Mark I, II, III), especially chocolate or tropical examples, down through later feet-first Red Subs (Mark IV, V, VI), then the COMEX 1680 (extremely rare and a separate collecting tier), the gold 1680/8 (its own luxury category), and finally the white-text 1680, which is the accessible entry point into vintage Submariner Date collecting.