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{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex 16808 Submariner}}
{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex Submariner 16808}}
{{#seo:
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex 16808 Submariner — Production, Dial Variants, Serial Ranges | BezelBase
|title=Rolex Submariner 16808 (circa 1979–1987) | Rolexopedia
|description=The 16808 is the full 18k yellow gold Submariner Date — case, bezel, bracelet, crown, and crown tube all in gold — with caliber 3035 and sapphire crystal.…
|description=Collector guide to the gold Rolex Submariner 16808: calibre 3035, dial and marker variants, bezel, bracelets and auction examples.
|keywords=Rolex, 16808, Submariner, specifications, reference guide
|keywords=Rolex, Submariner, 16808, calibre 3035, nipple dial, 92908, 9958
|image=Ref 16808 hero.jpg
|image=Ref 16808 hero.webp
|image_alt=Rolex Submariner Ref. 16808
|image_alt=Yellow gold Rolex Submariner Date reference 16808
|type=article
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|og_type=article
|published_time=2026-04-14T16:13:29Z
|modified_time=2026-04-29T02:48:22Z
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
}}
}}


<small>[[Reference:submariner|Submariner]] -> '''16808'''</small>
<small>[[Reference:submariner|Submariner]] → '''16808'''</small>


The 16808 is the full 18k yellow gold Submariner Date (case, bezel, bracelet, crown, and crown tube all in gold) with caliber 3035 and sapphire crystal. It is the most materially committed member of its generation, the gold apex in a trio that also included the steel 16800 and the two-tone 16803. Among the three, the 16808 is the scarcest, and the Field Manual singles out its gilt nipple dial variant as the most desirable and collectible configuration.
<div class="rp-lead">
[[File:Ref 16808 hero.webp|thumb|center|640px|alt=Yellow gold Rolex Submariner Date reference 16808|Rolex Submariner Date 16808.]]
</div>


The gold Submariner lineage runs from 1969 to the present (1680/8 → [[Reference:16808|16808]] → [[Reference:16618|16618]] → 126618), and the 16808 sits as the bridge between the vintage gold Submariner and the modern one. It carried the same advances that the 16800 brought to the steel line (sapphire crystal, 300m rating, and quick-set date) into the full-gold reference.
The Submariner Date 16808 is the 18k yellow-gold member of the five-digit generation introduced alongside the steel 16800. Its 40mm case uses a sapphire crystal, a 300m depth rating and calibre 3035 with quick-set date. Christie’s and Tom Mulraney date the reference from about 1979 to 1987. The Field Manual gives 1977 in its text but 1979–1987 in its own reference table, so surviving dated examples support a circa-1979 start more clearly than a precise factory launch date.


<span id="launch-date-discrepancy"></span>
==Core facts==


[[File:Ref 16808 hero.jpg|thumb|right|250px|alt=Rolex Submariner Ref. 16808|Rolex Submariner Ref. 16808]]
{| class="wikitable rp-facts"
 
== Launch date discrepancy ==
 
Sources differ on when the 16808 entered production. The Vintage Rolex Field Manual text gives 1977, though the same book's reference table gives 1979 to 1987. Monochrome and Gray & Sons place the run at roughly 1984 to 1988. The 1977 figure is more consistent with internal planning or a small prototype run; 1979 reads as the Field Manual's own retail-availability estimate; the 1984 figure from the secondary sources probably tracks when production reached meaningful market volume. Absent primary documentation from Rolex archives or confirmed serial-band data, the launch date is uncertain and 1979 is the working assumption for retail availability.
 
End of production is generally placed at 1987 to 1988, when the 16618 replaced the reference with caliber 3135.
 
<span id="core-facts"></span>
== Core facts ==
 
{| class="wikitable"
|-
|-
! detail
! detail
Line 38: Line 27:
|-
|-
| reference
| reference
| 16808
| <code>16808</code>
|-
|-
| family
| family
Line 44: Line 33:
|-
|-
| production
| production
| DISPUTED: c.1977 (FM text), 1979–1987 (FM table), ~1984–1988 (other sources) — see launch date note
| circa 1979–1987 in Tom Mulraney and Christie’s; Field Manual text gives 1977 while its table gives 1979–1987
|-
|-
| movement
| movement
| caliber 3035 (date, quick-set, 28800 bph)
| calibre 3035, quick-set date, 27 jewels, 28,800 vph
|-
|-
| case
| case
| 40mm, full 18k yellow gold
| 18k yellow gold, commonly catalogued at 40mm
|-
|-
| crystal
| crystal
| sapphire with Cyclops
| sapphire with Cyclops date magnifier
|-
|-
| water resistance
| water resistance
| 300m
| 300m / 1,000ft
|-
|-
| bezel
| bezel
| 18k gold with aluminum insert (blue or black)
| rotating gold bezel with blue or black aluminum insert
|-
| dial colors
| blue or black, commonly paired with a matching insert
|-
|-
| lume
| markers and lume
| tritium
| nipple-style gold markers on some dials; flatter luminous markers also documented; tritium on catalogued examples
|-
|-
| bracelet
| bracelet
| Oyster ref.93158 (full gold), hollow end links
| 18k gold Oyster; 9958 bracelet and 92908 clasp stamp appear on documented examples
|-
| predecessor
| Submariner Date 1680/8
|-
|-
| successor
| successor
| 16618
| Submariner Date 16618, introduced around 1988
|}
|}


<span id="where-it-sits-in-the-gold-submariner-lineage"></span>
==Place in the line==
== Where it sits in the gold Submariner lineage ==


The gold Submariner is one of the most continuous threads in the entire Submariner family. It has existed in every generation since 1969:
The 16808 replaced the gold 1680/8 and arrived with sapphire crystal and calibre 3035. It ran alongside the steel 16800; the two-tone Rolesor 16803 followed around 1984. The 16618 carried the full-gold Submariner Date into the 3135 generation around 1988.


* 1680/8 (1969): first gold Submariner, acrylic crystal, caliber 1570/1575
The 16808 shares much of the 16800’s case and movement design. Tom Mulraney notes that the inside caseback is stamped <code>16800</code>; Phillips records the same stamp on one 16808 lot. Treat that as a documented feature of the family, then assess the caseback and its fit on the individual watch.
* '''[[Reference:16808|16808]]''': sapphire crystal, 300m rating, caliber 3035, nipple dial ← this reference
* [[Reference:16618|16618]] (~1988–2009): caliber 3135, Microstella regulation, SEL bracelet transition
* 126618 (2020–present): 41mm case, caliber 3235, ceramic bezel


Each generation brought the gold Submariner forward technically while keeping its fundamental character (a functional diving watch in precious metal) intact. When the 16618 replaced the 16808, the platform modernized with the 3135. When the 126618 replaced that, the case grew to 41mm and the ceramic bezel arrived.
==Production outline==


Within its generation:
Tom Mulraney and Christie’s place the 16808 around 1979–1987. The Field Manual’s table gives the same span, while its running text says “Launched in 1977.” Auction records add dated examples: Christie’s catalogues case 6,412,142 as circa 1979 with a guarantee dated August 1982; Phillips dates case 6,667,544 to circa 1981; and Sotheby’s dates case 9,623,728 to circa 1987. Use these catalogue dates as anchors for the individual watches; they do not date every 16808 by serial.


* [[Reference:16800|16800]]: steel — widest market, most production
The bezel insert came in blue or black aluminum, usually paired with a dial of the same color. Tom Mulraney dates the move to a ratcheting unidirectional bezel on the steel 16800 to around 1981. For the gold 16808, check the bezel on the individual watch; the 16800 evidence places the change around 1981.
* [[Reference:16803|16803]]: Rolesor (two-tone) — gold in visible positions, steel case
* [[Reference:16808|16808]]: full 18k yellow gold — maximum commitment ← this reference


<span id="production-outline"></span>
==Movement notes==
== Production outline ==


Given the launch date uncertainty described above, production is best treated as spanning from about 1979 (retail availability working assumption) to about 1987–1988 (when the 16618 replaced it). That gives a run of roughly eight to nine years, comparable to the steel 16800 running alongside it.
Calibre 3035 is an automatic date movement with quick-set date, 27 jewels and a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour. The current Movement reference lists 48 hours of power reserve. The 16618 replaced it with calibre 3135.


Forum research highlights 1981–1982 as a transitional period within the 16808's production, during which specification details (including dial finishing and bracelet components) may have shifted. This aligns with the broader transitional activity across the Submariner line in the early 1980s, as Rolex was simultaneously updating specifications on the steel 16800. Collectors tracking early versus late 16808 examples should pay attention to this window.
[[File:Ref 16808 movement.webp|thumb|right|240px|alt=Rolex calibre 3035 movement from a Submariner 16808|Calibre 3035, removed for service.]]


Production numbers are believed to be very low. Full gold sport Rolex watches have always been a small fraction of total output. No confirmed serial-band data exists. The reference does not split into meaningful sub-families beyond dial color and the nipple dial distinction.
==Dial map==


<span id="movement-notes"></span>
===Blue and black dials===
== Movement notes ==


The 16808 uses caliber 3035, the same date movement with quick-set date that powered the 16800 and 16803, running at 28,800 vph. When the 16618 replaced the 16808, the movement upgraded to caliber 3135 with Microstella regulation.
The 16808 is documented with blue or black dials and matching blue or black bezel inserts. The markers are applied gold. Early examples use nipple-style markers, with a raised gold center around a luminous plot; flatter luminous markers also appear in the reference’s documented run. Tom Mulraney describes that marker change, while Sotheby’s catalogued a circa-1987 nipple-dial example. Published examples place both styles in the run; their serial order remains unestablished.


<span id="dial-map"></span>
Auction catalogues identify tritium on these dials. The reviewed examples carry tritium markings. Check the lume on each dial, especially where service parts may have been fitted.
== Dial map ==


<span id="gilt-nipple-dial-the-collector-configuration"></span>
===Color-change dials===
=== Gilt nipple dial — the collector configuration ===


The Field Manual singles out the gilt nipple dial version as the most desirable and collectible 16808 configuration. Nipple dials have small raised dots (bosses) at the center of each applied gold hour marker, giving them a distinctive three-dimensional texture. The gilt finish and nipple markers together define the most collected variant.
Auction catalogues describe blue dials that aged to brown. Sotheby’s calls the circa-1987 case 9,623,728 a tropical blue dial and says it turned brown; Monaco Legend describes similar brown change on its 1982 example. Sellers sometimes call purple-looking examples violet or purple. Those color names describe appearance; the auction records trace the examples to blue dials that changed with age.


The nipple marker appears across the gold-involved Submariners of the 1980s (the 1680/8, the 16803, and the 16808). On the 16808 it sits at the strongest expression of the format: full gold case, full gold bracelet, gilt nipple dial.
[[File:Ref 16808 dial-detail.webp|thumb|right|240px|alt=Blue Rolex Submariner 16808 nipple dial with raised gold hour markers|Blue nipple dial.]]


<span id="blue-dial"></span>
==Case, bezel, crystal and crown==
=== Blue dial ===


The blue dial is a sunburst finish with gold applied markers, gold hands, and gold printed text. It is the more commonly encountered standard configuration and carries tritium lume throughout.
The 18k yellow-gold Oyster case measures about 40mm in most catalogues. Antiquorum recorded a circa-1981 example at 39mm, so catalogue measurements vary by a millimeter. The watch has crown guards, a screw-down Triplock crown, a sapphire crystal and a rotating bezel with an aluminum insert. The dial states 1,000ft=300m on documented examples.


<span id="black-dial"></span>
The inside caseback stamp <code>16800</code> appears on a Phillips-catalogued 16808 and is also noted by Tom Mulraney. Some watch components may have been replaced during service; assess the case, caseback, movement and papers as separate evidence.
=== Black dial ===


The black dial carries the same gold applied markers against a black base and turns up less often than the blue. Whether that reflects lower production or lower survival is not documented.
[[File:Ref 16808 case-crown.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=18k yellow gold Submariner 16808 case flank with Triplock crown and guards|Gold case, Triplock crown and guards.]]


All dials carry tritium for the full run. No lume transition applies to this reference.
==Bracelet and clasp==


<span id="violet-dial-variant"></span>
Gold Oyster bracelets appear on the catalogued watches. An archived circa-1980 listing records a 9958 bracelet with 46 end links. Phillips records a circa-1981 example with clasp stamp 92908 and end links marked 46. Tom Mulraney describes hollow end links on this generation before the later solid-end-link Submariners. These lots document two fittings; identify each bracelet from its hardware and the watch’s records.
=== Violet dial variant ===


Forum collectors identify a distinct violet dial variant on the 16808, separate from the standard blue and black options. The violet dial presents as a deep purple-blue, distinguishable from both the standard blue sunburst and from blue dials that have merely shifted color with age. Whether this represents a factory-intentional color or an early-stage aging phenomenon is debated, but collectors treat it as a recognized variant.
Inspect each bracelet for play and wear. A clasp code dates the clasp or bracelet, not the watch head. Boxes, guarantees and booklets in auction descriptions belong to those lots and should be checked against the watch’s own serial and provenance.


<span id="nipple-dial-color-change-phenomenon"></span>
==Auction record==
=== Nipple dial color change phenomenon ===


An aging pattern specific to nipple dials has been documented by forum collectors. The raised gold markers on nipple dials can change color over time. The gold bosses may develop a warmer or darker tone relative to the surrounding dial and applied markers, creating a two-tone effect within the markers themselves. This color change is a natural oxidation process and is considered a mark of authenticity on well-aged examples; it cannot be easily replicated on refinished dials.
Each auction description dates and characterizes its own lot; together, the entries show examples across the run rather than a complete production ledger.


<span id="case-bezel-crystal-and-crown-notes"></span>
{| class="wikitable"
== Case, bezel, crystal, and crown ==
|-
[[File:Ref 16808 detail.jpg|thumb|right|250px|alt=Detail view|Detail view]]
! catalogue
! example
! recorded details
|-
| Christie’s, case 6,412,142
| circa 1979
| black nipple dial, 40mm case, gold Oyster bracelet; guarantee dated 10 August 1982
|-
| Christie’s, case 7,066,758
| circa 1981
| blue dial and bezel, calibre 3035 with 27 jewels, 40mm, gold Oyster bracelet
|-
| Phillips, case 6,667,544
| circa 1981
| calibre 3035/27 jewels, 40mm, bracelet clasp 92908, end links 46; inside caseback stamped 16800
|-
| Monaco Legend, case 7,538,212
| 1982
| blue nipple dial described as tropical brown, calibre 3035, 40mm, box and papers listed
|-
| Sotheby’s, case 9,623,728
| circa 1987
| tropical blue nipple dial described as turned brown, calibre 3035/27 jewels, 40mm
|-
| Antiquorum, case 6,516,672
| circa 1981
| colour-change dial, calibre 3035/27 jewels, 39mm; non-original box
|}


The case is 18k yellow gold throughout: body, bezel, crown, and crown tube. Crown guards follow the standard Submariner shape. The Triplock crown seals the watch to 300m, and the Vintage Rolex Field Manual notes that the gold case is heavy and prone to scratching.
==Related references==


The crystal is sapphire with Cyclops over the date window. The bezel insert is aluminum in blue or black, set into the gold bezel surround. Aluminum inserts fade and scratch over time.
* [[Reference:1680|Submariner Date 1680/8]]
* [[Reference:16800|Submariner Date 16800]]
* [[Reference:16803|Submariner Date 16803]]
* [[Reference:16618|Submariner Date 16618]]


The rehaut is plain. Hallmarks on solid 18k gold Rolex cases include the Helvetia bust with G (Geneva assay) on the mid-case underside of lugs; after 1995, the St. Bernard dog Barry mark was used for all precious metals.
See also [[Reference:submariner|Submariner family guide]], [[Reference:Movements|Movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|Bracelet and clasp guide]] and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|Serial numbers]].


<span id="bracelets-end-links-clasps-and-packaging-notes"></span>
<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
== Bracelets, end links, clasps, and packaging notes ==
File:Ref 16808 hero.webp|Submariner Date 16808, yellow gold
File:Ref 16808 dial-detail.webp|Blue nipple dial and applied markers
File:Ref 16808 case-crown.webp|Gold case and Triplock crown
File:Ref 16808 movement.webp|Calibre 3035
</gallery>


The standard bracelet is the 93158, a full 18k yellow gold Oyster bracelet with Fliplock clasp. Forum collectors also reference bracelet number 92908 for the 16808. Whether 92908 represents an alternate production bracelet, an earlier-production variant, or a misidentification has not been resolved; both references are recorded here pending further documentation.
== Sources ==
* [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rolex_Submariner Wikipedia: Rolex Submariner] — family chronology
* [https://www.rolex.com/watches/submariner Rolex Submariner technical material] — current terminology for the family


End links are hollow. The gold bracelet stretches over time; gold is softer than steel, and the combination of a heavy gold case and daily wear leaves the links with visible play on almost every well-worn example. Stretching is one of the most important condition factors when evaluating a 16808. The weight difference from the steel 16800 is immediately obvious on the wrist.
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/rolex-submariner-history-part-3-the-5-digit-references/ Tom Mulraney, "History of the Rolex Submariner – Part 3, The 5-Digit References", 2020-08-20]
 
The 93158 stayed on the 16808 for its full run. No solid-end-link transition occurred during this reference's production; that upgrade came with the 16618's transition to the 93258.
 
Clasp date codes for this era follow the standard Rolex scheme, running A for 1976 through M for 1988. The clasp code dates the bracelet, not the watch head.
 
<span id="special-branches"></span>
== Special branches ==
 
No known special branches beyond the gilt nipple dial variant, which the Field Manual treats as the most collectible configuration.
 
<span id="historical-market-and-auction-record"></span>
== Historical market and auction record ==
 
The 16808 is scarce at auction. Low production and a short run mean few examples circulate. When they appear, the full gold construction places them at the top of the 3035-era Submariner range, above the two-tone 16803 and steel 16800.
 
No specific hammer prices have been captured. Full gold Submariners from this era attract steady collector interest, and the 16808 sits in a historically specific gap: too modern for the vintage gold 1680/8 premium, too old for the 16618's sustained production story. The gilt nipple dial, when genuine and in strong condition, commands the most from the reference.
 
== Sources ==
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/rolex-submariner-history-part-2-the-55xx-1680references/ History of the Rolex Submariner - Part 2, The 55XX References and 1680 Date] — Tom Mulraney, Monochrome
* [https://www.bobswatches.com/rolex-blog/rolex-info/rolex-two-tone-submariner.html Bob's Watches two-tone Submariner history] — Bob's Watches editorial staff, Bob's Watches
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/articles/how-to-start-collecting-the-rolex-submariner The Rolex Submariner: A Complete Collector's Guide] — Stephen Pulvirent, Sotheby's
* [https://www.grayandsons.com/blog/rolex-submariner-date-history/ Gray & Sons Submariner Date history] — Gray & Sons editorial, Gray & Sons
* [https://professionalwatches.com/rolex-submariner-reference-guide/ Rolex Submariner Reference Guide] — Professional Watches editorial, Professional Watches
* ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' — Colin A. White, Morning Tundra
* ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' — Colin A. White, Morning Tundra
* RolexForums 16808 thread bundle — RolexForums community, RolexForums
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6539583 "Submariner ref. 16808, case 6,412,142, circa 1979", Christie’s]
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/158613 "Submariner ref. 16808, case 6,667,544, circa 1981", Phillips]
* [https://www.christies.com/lot/lot-5644086 "Submariner ref. 16808, case 7,066,758, circa 1981", Christie’s]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2021/important-watches-6/nipple-dial-submariner-ref-16808-yellow-gold "Submariner ref. 16808, tropical nipple dial, circa 1987", Sotheby’s, 2021]
* [https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-33/lot-220 "Submariner ref. 16808, blue tropical nipple dial, case 7,538,212", Monaco Legend Auctions]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-16808-submariner-lot-386-590 "Submariner ref. 16808, colour-change dial, case 6,516,672", Antiquorum, 2026-05-10]
* [https://lunaroyster.com/product/sold-1980-rolex-submariner-16808-solid-18kt-gold-black-nipple-dial/ "Submariner ref. 16808, black nipple dial, circa 1980", Lunar Oyster]


[[Category:Submariner]]
[[Category:Submariner]]
[[Category:Working Draft]]