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{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex 16800 Submariner}}
{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex 16800 Submariner}}
{{#seo:
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Submariner 16800 (1979–1988) — Production & Dial Guide | Rolexopedia
|title=Rolex Submariner 16800 (1979–1988) : Production & Dial Guide | Rolexopedia
|description=The 16800 is the transitional Submariner Date — the watch that carried the line from its vintage roots into the modern era. Introduced around 1979 as…
|description=The 16800 is the transitional Submariner Date : the watch that carried the line from its vintage roots into the modern era. Introduced around 1979 as…
|keywords=Rolex, 16800, Submariner, specifications, reference guide
|keywords=Rolex, 16800, Submariner, specifications, reference guide
|image=Ref 16800 hero.jpg
|image=Ref 16800 hero.jpg
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<small>[[Reference:submariner|Submariner]] › '''16800'''</small>
<small>[[Reference:submariner|Submariner]] › '''16800'''</small>
<div class="rp-lead">
[[File:Ref_16800_hero_2.webp|thumb|center|640px|alt=Rolex 16800 Submariner|Rolex 16800 Submariner]]
</div>


The 16800 is the transitional Submariner Date. Introduced around 1979 as the successor to the [[Reference:1680|1680]], it arrived with three changes that would define the modern Submariner: a sapphire crystal (the first ever fitted to a Submariner), a 300m depth rating up from 200m, and a quick-set date via caliber 3035. Production ran until about 1988, when the [[Reference:16610|16610]] took over for the next 23 years, with the brief 168000 “Triple Zero” slotted in between.
The 16800 is the transitional Submariner Date. Introduced around 1979 as the successor to the [[Reference:1680|1680]], it arrived with three changes that would define the modern Submariner: a sapphire crystal (the first ever fitted to a Submariner), a 300m depth rating up from 200m, and a quick-set date via caliber 3035. Production ran until about 1988, when the [[Reference:16610|16610]] took over for the next 23 years, with the brief 168000 “Triple Zero” slotted in between.


The sapphire crystal is the change that matters most. Every prior Submariner wore acrylic, the [[Reference:1680|1680]], [[Reference:5513|5513]] and [[Reference:6538|6538]] included. The 16800 broke that continuity, and every Submariner since has used sapphire.
The sapphire crystal is the clearest visible break from the earlier Submariner references. The 1680, 5513, and 6538 used acrylic; later Submariner generations adopted sapphire.


<span id="core-facts"></span>
<span id="core-facts"></span>
[[File:Ref 16800 hero.jpg|thumb|right|250px|alt=Rolex Submariner Ref. 16800|Rolex Submariner Ref. 16800]]


== Core facts ==
== Core facts ==
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|-
|-
| crystal
| crystal
| sapphire — first on any Submariner (landmark specification change)
| sapphire : first on any Submariner (landmark specification change)
|-
|-
| water resistance
| water resistance
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|-
|-
| movement
| movement
| caliber 3035 with quick-set date and hacking (main production; some early examples carry 1575)
| caliber 3035, quick-set date and hacking
|-
|-
| bracelet
| bracelet
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|-
|-
| bezel action
| bezel action
| unidirectional ratcheting — first Submariner with this feature; all previous Submariners used bidirectional friction-fitted bezels
| unidirectional ratcheting in documented 16800 descriptions; earlier references generally used friction bezels
|}
|}


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== Where it sits in the line ==
== Where it sits in the line ==


The 16800 sits between the vintage and the modern Submariner. With it, the Submariner Date became a modern diving watch in its technical specification, even though the external design barely shifted.
The 16800 bridges the earlier acrylic-crystal Submariners and the later 16610 generation. Its sapphire crystal, 300m rating, and caliber 3035 changed the technical specification while the case remained recognizably familiar.


The lineage through this period:
The lineage through this period:
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== Production outline ==
== Production outline ==


The 16800 ran for roughly eight to nine years, from 1979 to 1988. The main internal split is the movement caliber.
The 16800 ran from roughly 1979 to 1988. The useful production divisions are the matte-to-gloss dial change and the short overlap with the 168000; auction catalogues describe the 16800 with caliber 3035.
 
<span id="early-caliber-1575"></span>
=== Early: caliber 1575 ===
 
The earliest 16800 examples carried over the caliber 1575 from the 1680. These watches wear the new sapphire crystal and 300m rating but lack the quick-set date; the date advances only by running the hands past midnight. An early 16800 looks modern on the outside and operates like a vintage Submariner inside, which gives these transitional pieces their own collecting identity.


<span id="later-caliber-3035"></span>
<span id="caliber-3035"></span>
=== Later: caliber 3035 ===
=== Caliber 3035 ===


Later examples switched to caliber 3035, which brought quick-set date (advancing the date independently by pulling the crown to the first position) and hacking seconds. This is the most practical difference between early and late examples, and the 3035 is the movement most buyers will encounter. The exact serial range of the changeover is not firmly established.
Auction catalogues and the specialist references checked for this page identify the 16800 with caliber 3035, which brought the quick-set date and hacking seconds to the Submariner Date. A watch described as a factory 16800 with caliber 1575 needs movement, case, and delivery evidence; the reference number alone does not establish that configuration.


<span id="end-of-run-transition-to-168000-and-16610"></span>
<span id="end-of-run-transition-to-168000-and-16610"></span>
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Around 1986–1987, production of the brief 168000 “Triple Zero” overlapped with the late 16800. The 168000 ran for about seven to nine months and is distinguished by its switch to 904L stainless steel (vs. 316L on the 16800) and its 501B end links (vs. 593 on the 16800). Some sources treat the 168000 as a late 16800 variant; others document it as a distinct reference. Either way, its production preceded the [[Reference:16610|16610]].
Around 1986–1987, production of the brief 168000 “Triple Zero” overlapped with the late 16800. The 168000 ran for about seven to nine months and is distinguished by its switch to 904L stainless steel (vs. 316L on the 16800) and its 501B end links (vs. 593 on the 16800). Some sources treat the 168000 as a late 16800 variant; others document it as a distinct reference. Either way, its production preceded the [[Reference:16610|16610]].


Most sources cite the 168000 production window as 1986–1987. Vintage Rolex Forum research narrows this further, placing production specifically in 1987, a run of about seven months within a single calendar year. The difference matters for dating: if that account is correct, any 168000 should correspond to a 1987 serial band.
Sources generally place the 168000 in 1986–1987; one collector study narrows it to a roughly seven-month 1987 run. Rolex has not published a serial-linked production calendar, so the year remains an approximate dating aid.


<span id="the-168000-triple-zero-a-collectible-sub-variant"></span>
<span id="the-168000-triple-zero-a-collectible-sub-variant"></span>
== The 168000 “Triple Zero”: a collectible sub-variant ==
== The 168000 “Triple Zero” transition ==


The name comes from the three consecutive zeros in the reference number. What collectors are actually buying is the run length, about seven to nine months, one of the most compressed windows in Submariner history, and the 904L case that came with it. Mechanically the watch is a late 16800, caliber 3035 and all; the [[Reference:16610|16610]] that followed upgraded to caliber 3135.
The name comes from the three consecutive zeros in the reference number. The transition is generally described as a short run of about seven to nine months and introduced 904L steel to the Submariner case. Mechanically the watch is a late 16800, caliber 3035 and all; the [[Reference:16610|16610]] that followed upgraded to caliber 3135.


<span id="movement-notes"></span>
<span id="movement-notes"></span>
== Movement notes ==
== Movement notes ==


Caliber 1575 carried over from the [[Reference:1680|1680]] with no quick-set and no hacking, running at 19,800 vph; those early pieces are the rarer configuration. Caliber 3035 was the new movement for this era, beating at 28,800 vph (4 Hz) with quick-set date and hacking seconds, and a 42-hour power reserve.
Caliber 3035 is the movement identified for the 16800 in the auction and specialist material reviewed here. It beats at 28,800 vph (4 Hz), has a quick-set date and hacking seconds, and is generally described with an approximately 42-hour power reserve. The movement number and service history should be checked on the individual watch.


The 3035 also appears in the Datejust 16000 series and other Rolex date references of the period. It was a workhorse Rolex date caliber, running in the 16800, [[Reference:16803|16803]], and [[Reference:16808|16808]] before the 3135 replaced it in the next generation.
The 3035 also appears in the Datejust 16000 series and other Rolex date references of the period, including the 16803 and 16808. The reference number does not establish interchangeability of cases or parts.


The white-gold hands on the 16800 tend to take on a slightly more yellow cast than on modern Submariners, a characteristic of the alloy and of aging from this era.
The white-gold hands on the 16800 tend to take on a slightly more yellow cast than on modern Submariners, a characteristic of the alloy and of aging from this era.
Line 123: Line 120:
=== Cal. 3035 known maintenance issue ===
=== Cal. 3035 known maintenance issue ===


Vintage Rolex Forum threads return repeatedly to one weak point on the 3035. The automatic winding weight axle and its top jewel need careful lubrication, and when the lubricant dries or degrades, which is common on long-unserviced examples, the rotor develops excessive play or starts to bind. Watchmakers who know the caliber check it at every service. On an unserviced 16800, expect the auto weight assembly to need attention.
Watchmaker discussions identify the automatic winding axle and its upper jewel as service points on caliber 3035. Dried lubricant or wear can produce rotor play or binding, but the condition of an individual movement must be checked rather than assumed from age alone.


<span id="dial-map"></span>
<span id="dial-map"></span>
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[[File:Ref 16800 gloss-dial-example.webp|thumb|right|220px|alt=Gloss dial with white gold surrounds|Gloss dial with white gold surrounds]]
[[File:Ref 16800 gloss-dial-example.webp|thumb|right|220px|alt=Gloss dial with white gold surrounds|Gloss dial with white gold surrounds]]


Matte first, gloss later. Early matte watches carry the transitional appeal that draws collectors to the reference at all; the later glossy dials already look like the [[Reference:16610|16610]] that followed.
Matte dials are associated with earlier production and gloss dials with later examples. Both are documented under the 16800 reference; service replacements can change the dial on an individual watch.


The matte-to-gloss transition happened during the 16800 run. Vintage Rolex Forum collectors place the changeover zone at about serial 8.4M to 8.6M, where both matte and gloss dials appear. Watches below 8.4M are predominantly matte, and watches above 8.6M are predominantly gloss. These boundaries are collector-derived approximations, not factory records.
The matte-to-gloss transition happened during the 16800 run. Vintage Rolex Forum collectors place the changeover zone at about serial 8.4M to 8.6M, where both matte and gloss dials appear. Watches below 8.4M are predominantly matte, and watches above 8.6M are predominantly gloss. These boundaries are collector-derived approximations, not factory records.


A VRF matte dial comparison chart documents visible variations across the matte production run at serials 6.4M, 7.1M, 7.2M (also appearing at 8.3M), and 8.2M, with subtle differences in font weight, text spacing, and coronet proportions. One VRF member confirmed a matte dial still present at serial 8.275M and another at the end of the 8.3M range, which puts matte dials in use through the whole 8.3M band. Gloss dials with serial numbers below 8.0M, 7.3M and 7.5M among them, are almost certainly Rolex Service Center (RSC) replacements.
A VRF matte dial comparison chart documents visible variations across the matte production run at serials 6.4M, 7.1M, 7.2M (also appearing at 8.3M), and 8.2M, with subtle differences in font weight, text spacing, and coronet proportions. One VRF member confirmed a matte dial still present at serial 8.275M and another at the end of the 8.3M range, which puts matte dials in use through the whole 8.3M band. Gloss dials on very early serial examples may be service replacements, but serial range alone cannot prove the replacement history.


The period-correct date wheel is silver with open 6s and 9s. RSC service replacements from about 1998 onward use a white date wheel with closed 6s and 9s. A closed-6/9 date wheel on a 16800 is a service indicator.
The period-correct date wheel is silver with open 6s and 9s. RSC service replacements from about 1998 onward use a white date wheel with closed 6s and 9s. A closed-6/9 date wheel on a 16800 is a service indicator.


VRF threads also flag a specific RSC pattern: the service centers have been swapping matte dials for gloss for about two decades. A 16800 wearing a gloss dial in the matte serial range (below about 8.4M) may have had its original matte dial replaced during an authorised Rolex service. The matte dial is the more collectible configuration, and its replacement with gloss materially reduces the watch’s collector value. When evaluating an early-serial 16800, verify dial type against serial number and look for other signs of RSC service history.
VRF threads also document service replacements in which matte dials were exchanged for gloss dials. A 16800 wearing a gloss dial in the earlier matte serial range may therefore have a later service dial. When evaluating an early-serial 16800, compare the dial type with serial context and documented service history. Originality and condition affect any market assessment.


<span id="spider-dials"></span>
<span id="spider-dials"></span>
=== Spider dials ===
=== Spider dials ===
[[File:Ref 16800 spider-dial.webp|thumb|right|220px|alt=Spider dial — lacquer crazing|Spider dial — lacquer crazing]]
[[File:Ref 16800 spider-dial.webp|thumb|right|220px|alt=Spider dial : lacquer crazing|Spider dial : lacquer crazing]]


Spider dials are a documented 16800 phenomenon from the mid-to-late 1980s. The cracking sits in the gloss finish, not in the print or the applied markers, and is treated by collectors as an honest aging trait rather than a defect to be hidden.
Spider is collector shorthand for cracking in the gloss finish of some 16800 dials. The dial, printing, lume, and service history should be inspected to distinguish original aging from refinishing or replacement.


<span id="tropical-dials"></span>
<span id="tropical-dials"></span>
=== Tropical dials ===
=== Tropical dials ===


Tropical 16800 dials are period black dials that have shifted brown over time. Even color change usually adds appeal and is treated as evidence of an original dial rather than a refinish.
Some black 16800 dials are described as tropical after changing toward brown. Color change does not by itself establish originality or cause; the individual dial needs inspection.


<span id="general-dial-notes"></span>
<span id="general-dial-notes"></span>
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<span id="case-bezel-crystal-and-crown-notes"></span>
<span id="case-bezel-crystal-and-crown-notes"></span>
== Case, bezel, crystal, and crown ==
== Case, bezel, crystal, and crown ==
[[File:Ref 16800 detail.jpg|thumb|right|250px|alt=Detail view|Detail view]]
[[File:Ref_16800_detail.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=Detail view|Detail view]]


The case carries over from the 1680 as the same 40mm crown-guard Oyster, but the crystal is the defining break with the past. Sapphire is flat and substantially harder than the old domed acrylic, so it does not develop the warm dome distortion that vintage collectors prize on the [[Reference:5513|5513]] and 1680, and it does not scratch under normal wear.
The case retains the 40mm crown-guard Oyster form while adopting a flat sapphire crystal. Sapphire is more scratch-resistant than acrylic, but it can still be damaged or replaced.


The bezel uses an aluminum insert, black with a luminous pearl at 12; the same insert style continued through the 16610 era. The depth rating reads 300m / 1000ft, printed on the dial. The 16800 predates the engraved rehaut by nearly two decades, so depth-rating-on-dial is universal across the run. The crown is Triplock.
The bezel uses an aluminum insert, black with a luminous pearl at 12; the same insert style continued through the 16610 era. The depth rating reads 300m / 1000ft, printed on the dial. The 16800 predates the engraved rehaut; its depth rating is printed on the dial. The crown is Triplock.


<span id="bracelets-end-links-clasps-and-packaging-notes"></span>
<span id="bracelets-end-links-clasps-and-packaging-notes"></span>
== Bracelets, end links, clasps, and packaging notes ==
== Bracelets, end links, clasps, and packaging notes ==


The 16800 was fitted with the 93150 Oyster bracelet on 593 end links. There are no solid end links; that upgrade arrived with later references. The clasp uses the older fold-out diver’s extension. The end-link code is the cleanest authentication checkpoint for separating a 16800 from a 168000, since the 501B end links that sometimes turn up in 16800 listings actually belong to the 168000 “Triple Zero.” A 16800 offered with 501B end links has either had its bracelet replaced or been misidentified.
The 16800 was fitted with the 93150 Oyster bracelet on 593 end links. The documented 93150/593 fitment uses hollow end links and a fold-out diver extension. The 501B end link is associated with the 168000 in the cited reference material; a 501B on a 16800 requires an individual fitment and service-history review.


Against a modern Submariner the 16800 keeps drilled lug holes for spring-bar tool access, and it has neither the engraved Rolex ring on the inner dial flange (rehaut) nor the laser-etched coronet on the crystal. Successor references added all three.
Against a modern Submariner the 16800 keeps drilled lug holes for spring-bar tool access, and it has neither the engraved Rolex ring on the inner dial flange (rehaut) nor the laser-etched coronet on the crystal. Successor references added all three.
Line 179: Line 176:
Three box configurations are documented across the 16800 run. The earliest boxes are the American horseshoe style; mid-production examples carry the Brettchen box with its sea-bottom motif; late production shipped in the tree-pattern box with a beige envelope.
Three box configurations are documented across the 16800 run. The earliest boxes are the American horseshoe style; mid-production examples carry the Brettchen box with its sea-bottom motif; late production shipped in the tree-pattern box with a beige envelope.


Two booklet types are documented: a dark-cover Submariner booklet (earlier) and a newer-style diver booklet with “Submariner” written in white (later). Warranty papers also came in two formats across the production run. Complete sets with box and papers command premiums on the secondary market.
Two booklet types are documented: a dark-cover Submariner booklet (earlier) and a newer-style diver booklet with “Submariner” written in white (later). Warranty papers also came in two formats across the production run. Box, papers, and booklet contents belong to the individual delivery set and should be checked against the watch's serial and provenance.


<span id="special-branches"></span>
<span id="special-branches"></span>
== Special branches ==
== Special branches ==
<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
File:Ref 16800 brochure-16808-16800.jpg|alt=Rolex brochure — 16808 and 16800|Rolex brochure — 16808 and 16800
File:Ref_16800_brochure-16808-16800.webp|alt=Rolex brochure : 16808 and 16800|Rolex brochure : 16808 and 16800
File:Ref 16800 ad-breadalbane-1985.webp|alt=1985 Rolex ad — Breadalbane Arctic search|1985 Rolex ad — Breadalbane Arctic search
File:Ref 16800 ad-breadalbane-1985.webp|alt=1985 Rolex ad : Breadalbane Arctic search|1985 Rolex ad : Breadalbane Arctic search
File:Ref 16800 ad-tim-severin.webp|alt=Rolex ad — Tim Severin expedition|Rolex ad — Tim Severin expedition
File:Ref 16800 ad-tim-severin.webp|alt=Rolex ad : Tim Severin expedition|Rolex ad : Tim Severin expedition
File:Ref 16800 hero 2.jpg|alt=Rolex Submariner Ref. 16800|Rolex Submariner Ref. 16800
</gallery>
</gallery>


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=== COMEX ===
=== COMEX ===


Rolex produced about 300 numbered 16800 Submariners for COMEX (Compagnie maritime d’expertises), the French deep-diving firm, between 1982 and 1986. These carry the COMEX name on the dial and a numbered COMEX engraving on the caseback. Both matte and gloss dial configurations exist across this production window.
Auction and specialist records describe approximately 300 numbered 16800s supplied to COMEX between 1982 and 1986. These watches carry COMEX dial and caseback markings; both matte and gloss configurations are documented.


A known issue affects the gloss-dial COMEX 16800. On tritium COMEX logo dials, small pieces of the applied COMEX marking would detach from the dial surface. Many affected watches received a [[Reference:16610|16610]] tritium replacement COMEX dial during service, meaning some COMEX 16800 watches now wear a dial from the successor reference. The replacement dial is period-correct in style but not original to the 16800, and the distinction matters for authentication.
Specialist and auction records describe COMEX 16800 dials with detached or damaged applied COMEX markings and later service replacements. Some watches now carry a tritium COMEX dial associated with the 16610; that possibility must be checked against the individual dial, case, movement, and service record. A period-correct replacement is not the same as an original 16800 delivery configuration.


<span id="historical-market-and-auction-record"></span>
<span id="historical-market-and-auction-record"></span>
== Historical market and auction record ==
== Historical market and auction record ==


The 16800 is too modern to carry the full vintage premium of a 1680 or [[Reference:5513|5513]], but its short production run and its landmark specifications, the first sapphire crystal and the move to 300m, give it real collector credibility. Early matte-dial examples on caliber 1575 attract the most attention from transitional-era specialists.
The auction and specialist record distinguishes early matte, later gloss, COMEX, and 168000 examples. Condition, originality, provenance, and parts fitment affect each result; no general premium is asserted here.


A correctly identified 168000 commands a premium over a standard 16800, on the strength of that short run and its standing as the first 904L Submariner.
<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
Ref_16800_hero_2.webp|16800 hero
Ref 16800 gloss-dial-example.webp|Gloss dial
Ref 16800 spider-dial.webp|Spider dial
Ref 16800 matte-dial-late-83M-detail.webp|Matte dial detail
Ref 16800 matte-dial-late-83M.webp|Matte dial
Ref 16800 matte-dial-variation-chart.webp|Matte dial variation chart
Ref_16800_detail.webp|Case detail
Ref_16800_brochure-16808-16800.webp|Rolex brochure
Ref 16800 ad-breadalbane-1985.webp|1985 Rolex advertisement
Ref 16800 ad-tim-severin.webp|Rolex expedition advertisement
</gallery>


== Related references ==
== Related references ==


* [[Reference:16803|Submariner 16803]] — 1984–1988
* [[Reference:16803|Submariner 16803]] : 1984–1988
* [[Reference:5513|Submariner 5513]] — Non-Date Classic (1962–1989)
* [[Reference:5513|Submariner 5513]] : Non-Date Classic (1962–1989)
* [[Reference:1680|Submariner 1680]] — First Date Sub, 'Red Sub' (1969–1979)
* [[Reference:1680|Submariner 1680]] : First Date Sub, 'Red Sub' (1969–1979)
* [[Reference:5517|Submariner 5517]] — "MilSub", Military Issue (1971–1974)
* [[Reference:5517|Submariner 5517]] : "MilSub", Military Issue (1971–1974)
* [[Reference:14060|Submariner 14060]] — Non-Date, Cal 3000 (1990–2000)
* [[Reference:14060|Submariner 14060]] : Non-Date, Cal 3000 (1990–2000)
* [[Reference:5512|Submariner 5512]] — First Crown-Guard (1959–1978)
* [[Reference:5512|Submariner 5512]] : First Crown-Guard (1959–1978)


See also the [[Reference:submariner|Submariner family index]], [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|bracelet & clasp guide]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial numbers by year]].
See also the [[Reference:submariner|Submariner family index]], [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|bracelet & clasp guide]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial numbers by year]].


== Sources ==
== Sources ==
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/rolex-submariner-history-part-2-the-55xx-1680references/ History of the Rolex Submariner - Part 2, The 55XX References and 1680 Date] — Tom Mulraney, Monochrome
* [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rolex_Submariner Wikipedia: Rolex Submariner] — family chronology
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/articles/how-to-start-collecting-the-rolex-submariner The Rolex Submariner: A Complete Collector's Guide] — Stephen Pulvirent, Sotheby's
* [https://www.rolex.com/watches/submariner Rolex Submariner technical material] — current family terminology
* ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' — Colin A. White, Morning Tundra
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6320621 Christie's COMEX 16800 catalogue] — individual COMEX evidence and chronology
* [https://rolexpassionmarket.com/the-vintage-rolex-buyers-guide/ The Complete Vintage Rolex Buyers Guide] — Philipp Stahl, Rolex Passion Market
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/rolex-submariner-history-part-2-the-55xx-1680references/ History of the Rolex Submariner - Part 2, The 55XX References and 1680 Date] : Tom Mulraney, Monochrome
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/articles/how-to-start-collecting-the-rolex-submariner The Rolex Submariner: A Complete Collector's Guide] : Stephen Pulvirent, Sotheby's
* ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' : Colin A. White, Morning Tundra
* [https://rolexpassionmarket.com/the-vintage-rolex-buyers-guide/ The Complete Vintage Rolex Buyers Guide] : Philipp Stahl, Rolex Passion Market
* RolexForums 16800 thread bundle (RolexForums)
* RolexForums 16800 thread bundle (RolexForums)
* [https://journal.craftandtailored.com/the-crossroads-of-vintage-and-contemporary-the-reference-16800-rolex-submariner/ The Crossroads of Vintage and Contemporary: The 16800 Submariner] — Craft + Tailored, 2018
* [https://journal.craftandtailored.com/the-crossroads-of-vintage-and-contemporary-the-reference-16800-rolex-submariner/ The Crossroads of Vintage and Contemporary: The 16800 Submariner] : Craft + Tailored, 2018
* [https://www.bobswatches.com/rolex-blog/watch-review/rolex-submariner-evolution-1680-16800-168000.html Rolex Submariner Evolution: 1680 vs 16800 vs 168000] — Bob's Watches
* [https://www.bobswatches.com/rolex-blog/watch-review/rolex-submariner-evolution-1680-16800-168000.html Rolex Submariner Evolution: 1680 vs 16800 vs 168000] : Bob's Watches
* [https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/vintagerolexforum/rolex-16800-168000-dial-variation-t249940.html Rolex 16800/168000 Dial Variation] — hammywatch, mineralVRF, alligoat, Xeramic et al., Vintage Rolex Forum (2019)
* [https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/vintagerolexforum/rolex-16800-168000-dial-variation-t249940.html Rolex 16800/168000 Dial Variation] : hammywatch, mineralVRF, alligoat, Xeramic et al., Vintage Rolex Forum (2019)


[[Category:Submariner]]
[[Category:Submariner]]

Latest revision as of 23:47, 28 September 2026


Submariner › 16800

Rolex 16800 Submariner
Rolex 16800 Submariner

The 16800 is the transitional Submariner Date. Introduced around 1979 as the successor to the 1680, it arrived with three changes that would define the modern Submariner: a sapphire crystal (the first ever fitted to a Submariner), a 300m depth rating up from 200m, and a quick-set date via caliber 3035. Production ran until about 1988, when the 16610 took over for the next 23 years, with the brief 168000 “Triple Zero” slotted in between.

The sapphire crystal is the clearest visible break from the earlier Submariner references. The 1680, 5513, and 6538 used acrylic; later Submariner generations adopted sapphire.

Core facts

detail value
production approximately 1979 to 1988
family Submariner Date
crystal sapphire : first on any Submariner (landmark specification change)
water resistance 300m / 1000ft (up from 200m on the 1680)
case 40mm Oyster with crown guards
crown Triplock
movement caliber 3035, quick-set date and hacking
bracelet 93150 with 593 end links (the 501B end links belong to the 168000, not the 16800)
dial matte (early, tritium) transitioning to gloss (later)
lume tritium throughout
date wheel silver with open 6s and 9s (period-correct); RSC service replacements use closed 6/9 white date wheels
steel 316L stainless (the 168000 introduced 904L)
bezel action unidirectional ratcheting in documented 16800 descriptions; earlier references generally used friction bezels

Where it sits in the line

The 16800 bridges the earlier acrylic-crystal Submariners and the later 16610 generation. Its sapphire crystal, 300m rating, and caliber 3035 changed the technical specification while the case remained recognizably familiar.

The lineage through this period:

  • 1680 (1966–1979): acrylic crystal, 200m, caliber 1575/1570
  • 16800 (1979–1988): sapphire crystal, 300m, caliber 3035 (this reference)
  • 168000 “Triple Zero” (1986–1987, transitional): first 904L steel, 501B end links
  • 16610 (1989–2010): caliber 3135, fully modern

The two-tone and gold siblings, 16803 and 16808, share the same case architecture and movement but are separate references.

Production outline

The 16800 ran from roughly 1979 to 1988. The useful production divisions are the matte-to-gloss dial change and the short overlap with the 168000; auction catalogues describe the 16800 with caliber 3035.

Caliber 3035

Auction catalogues and the specialist references checked for this page identify the 16800 with caliber 3035, which brought the quick-set date and hacking seconds to the Submariner Date. A watch described as a factory 16800 with caliber 1575 needs movement, case, and delivery evidence; the reference number alone does not establish that configuration.

End of run: transition to 168000 and 16610

Around 1986–1987, production of the brief 168000 “Triple Zero” overlapped with the late 16800. The 168000 ran for about seven to nine months and is distinguished by its switch to 904L stainless steel (vs. 316L on the 16800) and its 501B end links (vs. 593 on the 16800). Some sources treat the 168000 as a late 16800 variant; others document it as a distinct reference. Either way, its production preceded the 16610.

Sources generally place the 168000 in 1986–1987; one collector study narrows it to a roughly seven-month 1987 run. Rolex has not published a serial-linked production calendar, so the year remains an approximate dating aid.

The 168000 “Triple Zero” transition

The name comes from the three consecutive zeros in the reference number. The transition is generally described as a short run of about seven to nine months and introduced 904L steel to the Submariner case. Mechanically the watch is a late 16800, caliber 3035 and all; the 16610 that followed upgraded to caliber 3135.

Movement notes

Caliber 3035 is the movement identified for the 16800 in the auction and specialist material reviewed here. It beats at 28,800 vph (4 Hz), has a quick-set date and hacking seconds, and is generally described with an approximately 42-hour power reserve. The movement number and service history should be checked on the individual watch.

The 3035 also appears in the Datejust 16000 series and other Rolex date references of the period, including the 16803 and 16808. The reference number does not establish interchangeability of cases or parts.

The white-gold hands on the 16800 tend to take on a slightly more yellow cast than on modern Submariners, a characteristic of the alloy and of aging from this era.

Cal. 3035 known maintenance issue

Watchmaker discussions identify the automatic winding axle and its upper jewel as service points on caliber 3035. Dried lubricant or wear can produce rotor play or binding, but the condition of an individual movement must be checked rather than assumed from age alone.

Dial map

Gloss dial with white gold surrounds
Gloss dial with white gold surrounds

Matte dials are associated with earlier production and gloss dials with later examples. Both are documented under the 16800 reference; service replacements can change the dial on an individual watch.

The matte-to-gloss transition happened during the 16800 run. Vintage Rolex Forum collectors place the changeover zone at about serial 8.4M to 8.6M, where both matte and gloss dials appear. Watches below 8.4M are predominantly matte, and watches above 8.6M are predominantly gloss. These boundaries are collector-derived approximations, not factory records.

A VRF matte dial comparison chart documents visible variations across the matte production run at serials 6.4M, 7.1M, 7.2M (also appearing at 8.3M), and 8.2M, with subtle differences in font weight, text spacing, and coronet proportions. One VRF member confirmed a matte dial still present at serial 8.275M and another at the end of the 8.3M range, which puts matte dials in use through the whole 8.3M band. Gloss dials on very early serial examples may be service replacements, but serial range alone cannot prove the replacement history.

The period-correct date wheel is silver with open 6s and 9s. RSC service replacements from about 1998 onward use a white date wheel with closed 6s and 9s. A closed-6/9 date wheel on a 16800 is a service indicator.

VRF threads also document service replacements in which matte dials were exchanged for gloss dials. A 16800 wearing a gloss dial in the earlier matte serial range may therefore have a later service dial. When evaluating an early-serial 16800, compare the dial type with serial context and documented service history. Originality and condition affect any market assessment.

Spider dials

Spider dial : lacquer crazing
Spider dial : lacquer crazing

Spider is collector shorthand for cracking in the gloss finish of some 16800 dials. The dial, printing, lume, and service history should be inspected to distinguish original aging from refinishing or replacement.

Tropical dials

Some black 16800 dials are described as tropical after changing toward brown. Color change does not by itself establish originality or cause; the individual dial needs inspection.

General dial notes

  • Late 8.3M matte dial detail
    Late 8.3M matte dial detail
  • Late 8.3M serial matte dial
    Late 8.3M serial matte dial
  • Matte dial variations across serial ranges
    Matte dial variations across serial ranges

Lume is tritium throughout. Dial markings show T SWISS T or T<25 depending on production date. Hands on this reference commonly age to a different color than the dial lume plots, a characteristic tritium-era aging pattern.

Case, bezel, crystal, and crown

Detail view
Detail view

The case retains the 40mm crown-guard Oyster form while adopting a flat sapphire crystal. Sapphire is more scratch-resistant than acrylic, but it can still be damaged or replaced.

The bezel uses an aluminum insert, black with a luminous pearl at 12; the same insert style continued through the 16610 era. The depth rating reads 300m / 1000ft, printed on the dial. The 16800 predates the engraved rehaut; its depth rating is printed on the dial. The crown is Triplock.

Bracelets, end links, clasps, and packaging notes

The 16800 was fitted with the 93150 Oyster bracelet on 593 end links. The documented 93150/593 fitment uses hollow end links and a fold-out diver extension. The 501B end link is associated with the 168000 in the cited reference material; a 501B on a 16800 requires an individual fitment and service-history review.

Against a modern Submariner the 16800 keeps drilled lug holes for spring-bar tool access, and it has neither the engraved Rolex ring on the inner dial flange (rehaut) nor the laser-etched coronet on the crystal. Successor references added all three.

Clasps on the 93150 carry date codes that help date the bracelet, not the watch head. A later clasp does not change the production date of the watch.

Three box configurations are documented across the 16800 run. The earliest boxes are the American horseshoe style; mid-production examples carry the Brettchen box with its sea-bottom motif; late production shipped in the tree-pattern box with a beige envelope.

Two booklet types are documented: a dark-cover Submariner booklet (earlier) and a newer-style diver booklet with “Submariner” written in white (later). Warranty papers also came in two formats across the production run. Box, papers, and booklet contents belong to the individual delivery set and should be checked against the watch's serial and provenance.

Special branches

  • Rolex brochure : 16808 and 16800
    Rolex brochure : 16808 and 16800
  • 1985 Rolex ad : Breadalbane Arctic search
    1985 Rolex ad : Breadalbane Arctic search
  • Rolex ad : Tim Severin expedition
    Rolex ad : Tim Severin expedition

COMEX

Auction and specialist records describe approximately 300 numbered 16800s supplied to COMEX between 1982 and 1986. These watches carry COMEX dial and caseback markings; both matte and gloss configurations are documented.

Specialist and auction records describe COMEX 16800 dials with detached or damaged applied COMEX markings and later service replacements. Some watches now carry a tritium COMEX dial associated with the 16610; that possibility must be checked against the individual dial, case, movement, and service record. A period-correct replacement is not the same as an original 16800 delivery configuration.

Historical market and auction record

The auction and specialist record distinguishes early matte, later gloss, COMEX, and 168000 examples. Condition, originality, provenance, and parts fitment affect each result; no general premium is asserted here.

  • 16800 hero
    16800 hero
  • Gloss dial
    Gloss dial
  • Spider dial
    Spider dial
  • Matte dial detail
    Matte dial detail
  • Matte dial
    Matte dial
  • Matte dial variation chart
    Matte dial variation chart
  • Case detail
    Case detail
  • Rolex brochure
    Rolex brochure
  • 1985 Rolex advertisement
    1985 Rolex advertisement
  • Rolex expedition advertisement
    Rolex expedition advertisement

Related references

See also the Submariner family index, movement reference, bracelet & clasp guide, and serial numbers by year.

Sources

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