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{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex 16800 Submariner}}
{{#seo:
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex 16800 — BezelBase
|title=Rolex Submariner 16800 (1979–1988) : Production & Dial Guide | Rolexopedia
|description=The `16800` is the transitional Submariner Date — the watch that carried the line from its vintage roots into the modern era. Introduced around `1979` as…
|description=The 16800 is the transitional Submariner Date : the watch that carried the line from its vintage roots into the modern era. Introduced around 1979 as…
|keywords=Rolex, 16800, Submariner, specifications, reference guide
|keywords=Rolex, 16800, Submariner, specifications, reference guide
|type=article
|image=Ref 16800 hero.jpg
|image_alt=Rolex Submariner Ref. 16800
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|published_time=2026-04-14T16:13:21Z
|modified_time=2026-08-04T00:10:17Z
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
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}}


<small>[[Reference:submariner|Submariner]] › '''16800'''</small>


<small>[[Reference:submariner|Submariner]] → '''16800'''</small>
<div class="rp-lead">
[[File:Ref_16800_hero_2.webp|thumb|center|640px|alt=Rolex 16800 Submariner|Rolex 16800 Submariner]]
</div>


[[File:Ref 16800 hero 2.jpg|thumb|right|300px]]
The 16800 is the transitional Submariner Date. Introduced around 1979 as the successor to the [[Reference:1680|1680]], it arrived with three changes that would define the modern Submariner: a sapphire crystal (the first ever fitted to a Submariner), a 300m depth rating up from 200m, and a quick-set date via caliber 3035. Production ran until about 1988, when the [[Reference:16610|16610]] took over for the next 23 years, with the brief 168000 “Triple Zero” slotted in between.
[[File:Ref 16800 hero.jpg|thumb|right|300px]]
[[File:Ref 16800 detail.jpg|thumb|right|300px]]
[[File:Ref 16800 brochure-16808-16800.jpg|thumb|right|300px|Rolex brochure — 16808 and 16800]]
[[File:Ref 16800 ad-breadalbane-1985.webp|thumb|right|300px|1985 Rolex ad — Breadalbane Arctic search]]
[[File:Ref 16800 ad-tim-severin.webp|thumb|right|300px|Rolex ad — Tim Severin expedition]]
[[File:Ref 16800 matte-dial-variation-chart.webp|thumb|right|300px|Matte dial variations across serial ranges]]
[[File:Ref 16800 matte-dial-late-83M.webp|thumb|right|300px|Late 8.3M serial matte dial]]
[[File:Ref 16800 matte-dial-late-83M-detail.webp|thumb|right|300px|Late 8.3M matte dial detail]]
[[File:Ref 16800 gloss-dial-example.webp|thumb|right|300px|Gloss dial with white gold surrounds]]
[[File:Ref 16800 spider-dial.webp|thumb|right|300px|Spider dial — lacquer crazing]]


The [[Reference:16800|16800]] is the transitional Submariner Date — the watch that carried the line from its vintage roots into the modern era. Introduced around 1979 as the successor to the [[Reference:1680|1680]], it arrived with three fundamental changes that would define the modern Submariner: a '''sapphire crystal''' (the first ever fitted to a Submariner), a 300-meter depth rating (up from 200m), and a quick-set date via the caliber 3035 movement. Production ran until approximately 1988, when the [[Reference:16610|16610]] took over for a 23-year reign. Between those two sat the transitional 168000 “Triple Zero.”
The sapphire crystal is the clearest visible break from the earlier Submariner references. The 1680, 5513, and 6538 used acrylic; later Submariner generations adopted sapphire.


The sapphire crystal is the single most important technical landmark of this reference. Every Submariner before the [[Reference:16800|16800]] — the [[Reference:1680|1680]], the [[Reference:5513|5513]], the [[Reference:6538|6538]] — wore an acrylic crystal. The [[Reference:16800|16800]] broke that continuity and established the standard that all subsequent Submariners would follow. That line was never crossed back.
<span id="core-facts"></span>


<span id="core-facts"></span>
== Core facts ==
== Core facts ==


{| class="wikitable"
{| class="wikitable rp-facts"
|-
|-
! detail
! detail
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|-
|-
| crystal
| crystal
| sapphire — first on any Submariner (landmark specification change)
| sapphire : first on any Submariner (landmark specification change)
|-
|-
| water resistance
| water resistance
Line 52: Line 51:
|-
|-
| movement
| movement
| caliber 3035 with quick-set date and hacking (main production; some early examples carry 1575)
| caliber 3035, quick-set date and hacking
|-
|-
| bracelet
| bracelet
Line 70: Line 69:
|-
|-
| bezel action
| bezel action
| unidirectional ratcheting — first Submariner with this feature; all previous Submariners used bidirectional friction-fitted bezels
| unidirectional ratcheting in documented 16800 descriptions; earlier references generally used friction bezels
|}
|}


Line 76: Line 75:
== Where it sits in the line ==
== Where it sits in the line ==


The [[Reference:16800|16800]] sits between the vintage world and the modern one. Before it, the [[Reference:1680|1680]] used an acrylic crystal, a 200m rating, and a caliber without quick-set date. After it, the [[Reference:16610|16610]] settled on caliber 3135 and ran for 23 years. The [[Reference:16800|16800]] is where the Submariner Date became a modern diving watch in its technical specification, even if the external design barely changed.
The 16800 bridges the earlier acrylic-crystal Submariners and the later 16610 generation. Its sapphire crystal, 300m rating, and caliber 3035 changed the technical specification while the case remained recognizably familiar.


The lineage through this period:
The lineage through this period:


* [[Reference:1680|1680]] (1966–1979): acrylic crystal, 200m, caliber 1575/1570
* [[Reference:1680|1680]] (1966–1979): acrylic crystal, 200m, caliber 1575/1570
* '''[[Reference:16800|16800]] (1979–1988): sapphire crystal, 300m, caliber 3035''' ← this reference
* 16800 (1979–1988): sapphire crystal, 300m, caliber 3035 (this reference)
* 168000 “Triple Zero” (1986–1987, transitional): first 904L steel, 501B end links
* 168000 “Triple Zero” (1986–1987, transitional): first 904L steel, 501B end links
* [[Reference:16610|16610]] (1989–2010): caliber 3135, fully modern
* [[Reference:16610|16610]] (1989–2010): caliber 3135, fully modern


The two-tone and gold siblings — [[Reference:16803|16803]] and [[Reference:16808|16808]] — share the same case architecture and movement but are separate references.
The two-tone and gold siblings, [[Reference:16803|16803]] and [[Reference:16808|16808]], share the same case architecture and movement but are separate references.


<span id="production-outline"></span>
<span id="production-outline"></span>
== Production outline ==
== Production outline ==


The [[Reference:16800|16800]] run spans approximately eight to nine years, 1979 to 1988. The most important internal split is the movement.
The 16800 ran from roughly 1979 to 1988. The useful production divisions are the matte-to-gloss dial change and the short overlap with the 168000; auction catalogues describe the 16800 with caliber 3035.
 
<span id="early-caliber-1575"></span>
=== Early: caliber 1575 ===


The first [[Reference:16800|16800]] examples carried the caliber 1575, the same movement used in the [[Reference:1680|1680]]. These watches have a sapphire crystal and 300m rating but lack the quick-set date function — the date advances only by running the hands past midnight. An early [[Reference:16800|16800]] looks thoroughly modern on the outside but operates like a vintage Submariner inside. That paradox gives these examples their own character.
<span id="caliber-3035"></span>
=== Caliber 3035 ===


<span id="later-caliber-3035"></span>
Auction catalogues and the specialist references checked for this page identify the 16800 with caliber 3035, which brought the quick-set date and hacking seconds to the Submariner Date. A watch described as a factory 16800 with caliber 1575 needs movement, case, and delivery evidence; the reference number alone does not establish that configuration.
=== Later: caliber 3035 ===
 
Later examples switched to caliber 3035, which brought quick-set date (advancing the date independently by pulling the crown to the first position) and hacking seconds. This is the most practical difference between early and late examples, and the 3035 is the movement most buyers will encounter. The exact serial range of the changeover is not firmly established.


<span id="end-of-run-transition-to-168000-and-16610"></span>
<span id="end-of-run-transition-to-168000-and-16610"></span>
=== End of run: transition to 168000 and 16610 ===
=== End of run: transition to 168000 and 16610 ===


Around 1986–1987, production of the brief 168000 “Triple Zero” overlapped with the late [[Reference:16800|16800]]. The 168000 ran for approximately 7–9 months and is distinguished by its switch to 904L stainless steel (vs. 316L on the [[Reference:16800|16800]]) and its 501B end links (vs. 593 on the [[Reference:16800|16800]]). Some sources treat the 168000 as a late [[Reference:16800|16800]] variant; others document it as a distinct reference. Either way, its production preceded the [[Reference:16610|16610]].
Around 1986–1987, production of the brief 168000 “Triple Zero” overlapped with the late 16800. The 168000 ran for about seven to nine months and is distinguished by its switch to 904L stainless steel (vs. 316L on the 16800) and its 501B end links (vs. 593 on the 16800). Some sources treat the 168000 as a late 16800 variant; others document it as a distinct reference. Either way, its production preceded the [[Reference:16610|16610]].


A timing note: this article and most sources cite the 168000 production window as 1986–1987. Forum research narrows this further, placing production specifically in 1987 — a run of approximately seven months within a single calendar year. The difference matters for dating: if the forum account is correct, any 168000 should correspond to a 1987 serial band.
Sources generally place the 168000 in 1986–1987; one collector study narrows it to a roughly seven-month 1987 run. Rolex has not published a serial-linked production calendar, so the year remains an approximate dating aid.


<span id="the-168000-triple-zero-a-collectible-sub-variant"></span>
<span id="the-168000-triple-zero-a-collectible-sub-variant"></span>
== The 168000 “Triple Zero”: a collectible sub-variant ==
== The 168000 “Triple Zero” transition ==
 
The 168000 sits in one of the most compressed production windows in Submariner history — approximately seven to nine months in 1986–1987 — and this scarcity makes it a focal point for serious collectors of the transitional era.
 
The name “Triple Zero” derives from the three consecutive zeros in the reference number itself: 168000. But the collectibility runs deeper than numerology:
 
# '''First 904L steel Submariner''': the switch from 316L to 904L stainless steel happened here. All subsequent steel Rolex sport watches — including every [[Reference:16610|16610]] and 116610 — use 904L. The 168000 is where that transition began.
# '''End-link marker''': bracelet 93150 with 501B end links distinguishes every 168000 from every [[Reference:16800|16800]]. This is the key authentication checkpoint when the reference number itself is not visible.
# '''Shortest-run Submariner of the modern era''': approximately seven to nine months of production is among the briefest of any mainstream Submariner reference. Volume is believed to be very low, though no confirmed production numbers exist.


The 168000 used caliber 3035, same as the late [[Reference:16800|16800]]. The [[Reference:16610|16610]] that followed upgraded to caliber 3135.
The name comes from the three consecutive zeros in the reference number. The transition is generally described as a short run of about seven to nine months and introduced 904L steel to the Submariner case. Mechanically the watch is a late 16800, caliber 3035 and all; the [[Reference:16610|16610]] that followed upgraded to caliber 3135.


<span id="movement-notes"></span>
<span id="movement-notes"></span>
== Movement notes ==
== Movement notes ==


The movement split is the defining internal variation of the [[Reference:16800|16800]].
Caliber 3035 is the movement identified for the 16800 in the auction and specialist material reviewed here. It beats at 28,800 vph (4 Hz), has a quick-set date and hacking seconds, and is generally described with an approximately 42-hour power reserve. The movement number and service history should be checked on the individual watch.
 
* '''caliber 1575''': carried over from the [[Reference:1680|1680]], no quick-set date, no hacking, 19800 bph. These early pieces are the rarer configuration.
* '''caliber 3035''': new movement for this era, quick-set date, hacking seconds, 28800 bph. This is the caliber most [[Reference:16800|16800]] buyers will encounter.


The 3035 also appears in the Datejust 16000 series and other references of the period. It was a workhorse Rolex date caliber and ran in the [[Reference:16800|16800]], [[Reference:16803|16803]], and [[Reference:16808|16808]] before being replaced by the 3135 in the next generation.
The 3035 also appears in the Datejust 16000 series and other Rolex date references of the period, including the 16803 and 16808. The reference number does not establish interchangeability of cases or parts.


The caliber 3035 operates at 28,800 bph (4 Hz) — the same frequency as contemporary Rolex movements — and carries a 42-hour power reserve. The white-gold hands on the 16800 tend to appear slightly more yellow than on modern Submariners, a characteristic of the alloy and aging from this era.
The white-gold hands on the 16800 tend to take on a slightly more yellow cast than on modern Submariners, a characteristic of the alloy and of aging from this era.


<span id="cal.-3035-known-maintenance-issue"></span>
<span id="cal.-3035-known-maintenance-issue"></span>
=== Cal. 3035 known maintenance issue ===
=== Cal. 3035 known maintenance issue ===


Forum collectors report a recurring maintenance concern with the caliber 3035: the automatic winding weight axle and its top jewel require careful lubrication. When lubrication dries or degrades — common in watches that have gone many years between services — the rotor can develop excessive play or binding. This is not a design flaw, but it is a known service point that watchmakers familiar with the 3035 monitor. Buyers evaluating unserviced [[Reference:16800|16800]] examples should factor in the likelihood that the auto weight assembly will need attention.
Watchmaker discussions identify the automatic winding axle and its upper jewel as service points on caliber 3035. Dried lubricant or wear can produce rotor play or binding, but the condition of an individual movement must be checked rather than assumed from age alone.


<span id="dial-map"></span>
<span id="dial-map"></span>
== Dial map ==
== Dial map ==
[[File:Ref 16800 gloss-dial-example.webp|thumb|right|220px|alt=Gloss dial with white gold surrounds|Gloss dial with white gold surrounds]]


The [[Reference:16800|16800]] dial evolved during its production run:
Matte dials are associated with earlier production and gloss dials with later examples. Both are documented under the 16800 reference; service replacements can change the dial on an individual watch.
 
* '''Early production''': matte dial with tritium, carrying forward the aesthetic of the late [[Reference:1680|1680]]. Matte-dial examples — particularly on early 1575 watches — are the more collectible configuration. Collectors who value transitional references seek these specifically.
* '''Later production (approximately 1984–1985 onward)''': gloss dial with white-gold applied surrounds, replacing the painted tritium markers. The first gloss dials in the 8.5M serial range were Beyeler dials, produced right after Rolex changed to white-gold surrounds. This became the standard presentation and the look that carried forward into the [[Reference:16610|16610]].


The matte-to-gloss transition happened during the [[Reference:16800|16800]] run. Forum collectors identify the changeover zone at approximately serial 8.4M to 8.6M, where both matte and gloss dials appear — watches below 8.4M are predominantly matte, and watches above 8.6M are predominantly gloss. These boundaries are collector-derived approximations, not factory records.
The matte-to-gloss transition happened during the 16800 run. Vintage Rolex Forum collectors place the changeover zone at about serial 8.4M to 8.6M, where both matte and gloss dials appear. Watches below 8.4M are predominantly matte, and watches above 8.6M are predominantly gloss. These boundaries are collector-derived approximations, not factory records.


A VRF matte dial comparison chart documents visible dial variations across the matte production run at serials 6.4M, 7.1M, 7.2M (also appearing at 8.3M), and 8.2M — showing subtle differences in font weight, text spacing, and coronet proportions. One VRF member confirmed a matte dial still present at serial 8.275M, and another at the end of the 8.3M range, establishing that matte dials were definitely in use through the 8.3M serial range. Gloss dials with serial numbers below 8.0M (such as 7.3M and 7.5M) are almost certainly RSC service replacements.
A VRF matte dial comparison chart documents visible variations across the matte production run at serials 6.4M, 7.1M, 7.2M (also appearing at 8.3M), and 8.2M, with subtle differences in font weight, text spacing, and coronet proportions. One VRF member confirmed a matte dial still present at serial 8.275M and another at the end of the 8.3M range, which puts matte dials in use through the whole 8.3M band. Gloss dials on very early serial examples may be service replacements, but serial range alone cannot prove the replacement history.


'''Date wheel authentication:''' The period-correct date wheel has silver coloring with open 6s and 9s. RSC service replacements from approximately 1998 onward use a white date wheel with closed 6s and 9s. A closed-6/9 date wheel on a 16800 is a service indicator.
The period-correct date wheel is silver with open 6s and 9s. RSC service replacements from about 1998 onward use a white date wheel with closed 6s and 9s. A closed-6/9 date wheel on a 16800 is a service indicator.


'''RSC matte-to-gloss dial replacement warning.''' Forum collectors report that the Rolex Service Center has been replacing matte dials with gloss dials for approximately two decades. This is a significant buyer concern: a [[Reference:16800|16800]] wearing a gloss dial in the matte serial range (below approximately 8.4M) may have had its original matte dial swapped during an authorized Rolex service. The matte dial is the more collectible configuration, and its replacement with gloss materially reduces the watch’s collector value. When evaluating early-serial [[Reference:16800|16800]] examples, verify dial type against serial number and look for other signs of RSC service history.
VRF threads also document service replacements in which matte dials were exchanged for gloss dials. A 16800 wearing a gloss dial in the earlier matte serial range may therefore have a later service dial. When evaluating an early-serial 16800, compare the dial type with serial context and documented service history. Originality and condition affect any market assessment.


<span id="spider-dials"></span>
<span id="spider-dials"></span>
=== Spider dials ===
=== Spider dials ===
[[File:Ref 16800 spider-dial.webp|thumb|right|220px|alt=Spider dial : lacquer crazing|Spider dial : lacquer crazing]]


Spider dials are a documented phenomenon on the 16800, appearing on mid-to-late 1980s production. The effect presents as faint cracks in the gloss black dial finish — visible at certain angles in bright light — that resemble a spider web pattern across the dial surface. The cause traces to a slight issue with the lacquer Rolex used to create dial surfaces during the transition from matte to gloss dials with applied white gold hour markers. The crazing affects only the black background layer; white text and the applied markers remain undamaged. Not every gloss-dial 16800 develops spider cracking, and the degree varies from barely perceptible to dramatically visible. Collectors treat spider dials as a desirable characteristic — evidence of original, unrestored dials from a specific production window.
Spider is collector shorthand for cracking in the gloss finish of some 16800 dials. The dial, printing, lume, and service history should be inspected to distinguish original aging from refinishing or replacement.


<span id="tropical-dials"></span>
<span id="tropical-dials"></span>
=== Tropical dials ===
=== Tropical dials ===


Tropical dials occur when the original black dial finish shifts to brown over decades of environmental exposure. Prolonged sunlight, heat, and mild humidity are the primary drivers. Minor imperfections in the dial’s surface finish react to these factors, and the black pigment gradually warms to chocolate, tobacco, or cognac tones. No two tropical dials age identically — the final color depends entirely on the individual watch’s wear patterns and the conditions it lived through. Tropical 16800 examples are uncommon enough to command premiums when they appear, particularly when the color shift is even across the dial. As with spider dials, the tropical effect is valued as proof that the dial has never been refinished or replaced.
Some black 16800 dials are described as tropical after changing toward brown. Color change does not by itself establish originality or cause; the individual dial needs inspection.


<span id="general-dial-notes"></span>
<span id="general-dial-notes"></span>
=== General dial notes ===
=== General dial notes ===
<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
File:Ref 16800 matte-dial-late-83M-detail.webp|alt=Late 8.3M matte dial detail|Late 8.3M matte dial detail
File:Ref 16800 matte-dial-late-83M.webp|alt=Late 8.3M serial matte dial|Late 8.3M serial matte dial
File:Ref 16800 matte-dial-variation-chart.webp|alt=Matte dial variations across serial ranges|Matte dial variations across serial ranges
</gallery>


Lume is tritium throughout. Dial markings show T SWISS T or T&lt;25 depending on production date. Hands on this reference commonly age to a different color than the dial lume plots — a characteristic tritium-era aging pattern.
Lume is tritium throughout. Dial markings show T SWISS T or T&lt;25 depending on production date. Hands on this reference commonly age to a different color than the dial lume plots, a characteristic tritium-era aging pattern.


<span id="case-bezel-crystal-and-crown-notes"></span>
<span id="case-bezel-crystal-and-crown-notes"></span>
== Case, bezel, crystal, and crown notes ==
== Case, bezel, crystal, and crown ==
 
[[File:Ref_16800_detail.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=Detail view|Detail view]]
The case is the same 40mm crown-guard Oyster used on the [[Reference:1680|1680]], but the crystal change is the defining break with the past. The sapphire crystal is flat and substantially harder than the old domed acrylic. It does not develop the warm dome distortion that vintage collectors prize on the [[Reference:5513|5513]] or [[Reference:1680|1680]], but it also does not scratch under normal wear. The transition from acrylic to sapphire on the [[Reference:16800|16800]] drew a line between the vintage and modern Submariner eras. Rolex never retreated from it.


The bezel uses an aluminum insert, black with a pearl (lume pip) at 12 o’clock. This insert style continued through the [[Reference:16610|16610]] era. The depth rating is engraved 300m / 1000ft on the rehaut or printed on the dial depending on production date.
The case retains the 40mm crown-guard Oyster form while adopting a flat sapphire crystal. Sapphire is more scratch-resistant than acrylic, but it can still be damaged or replaced.


The Triplock crown is standard.
The bezel uses an aluminum insert, black with a luminous pearl at 12; the same insert style continued through the 16610 era. The depth rating reads 300m / 1000ft, printed on the dial. The 16800 predates the engraved rehaut; its depth rating is printed on the dial. The crown is Triplock.


<span id="bracelets-end-links-clasps-and-packaging-notes"></span>
<span id="bracelets-end-links-clasps-and-packaging-notes"></span>
== Bracelets, end links, clasps, and packaging notes ==
== Bracelets, end links, clasps, and packaging notes ==


The [[Reference:16800|16800]] was fitted with the 93150 Oyster bracelet with '''593 end links'''. The bracelet does not have solid end links (SEL) — that upgrade arrived with later references. The clasp uses an older-style fold-out diver’s extension. This is the critical authentication detail when distinguishing the [[Reference:16800|16800]] from the 168000: the 501B end links that sometimes appear in [[Reference:16800|16800]] listings belong to the 168000 “Triple Zero.” Any [[Reference:16800|16800]] offered with 501B end links either has a replaced bracelet or is misidentified.
The 16800 was fitted with the 93150 Oyster bracelet on 593 end links. The documented 93150/593 fitment uses hollow end links and a fold-out diver extension. The 501B end link is associated with the 168000 in the cited reference material; a 501B on a 16800 requires an individual fitment and service-history review.


Additional distinguishing details versus modern Submariners: the [[Reference:16800|16800]] retains drilled lug holes (for spring bar tool access), has no engraved Rolex ring on the inner dial flange (rehaut), and no laser-etched coronet on the sapphire crystal. These features were all added on successor references.
Against a modern Submariner the 16800 keeps drilled lug holes for spring-bar tool access, and it has neither the engraved Rolex ring on the inner dial flange (rehaut) nor the laser-etched coronet on the crystal. Successor references added all three.


Clasps on the 93150 carry date codes that help date the bracelet, not the watch head. A later clasp does not change the production date of the watch.
Clasps on the 93150 carry date codes that help date the bracelet, not the watch head. A later clasp does not change the production date of the watch.


Packaging for the [[Reference:16800|16800]] follows three documented box configurations across the production run:
Three box configurations are documented across the 16800 run. The earliest boxes are the American horseshoe style; mid-production examples carry the Brettchen box with its sea-bottom motif; late production shipped in the tree-pattern box with a beige envelope.


* '''American horseshoe box''': earliest packaging style
Two booklet types are documented: a dark-cover Submariner booklet (earlier) and a newer-style diver booklet with “Submariner” written in white (later). Warranty papers also came in two formats across the production run. Box, papers, and booklet contents belong to the individual delivery set and should be checked against the watch's serial and provenance.
* '''Brettchen with sea-bottom motif box''': mid-production
* '''Tree pattern box with beige envelope''': later production series
 
Two booklet types are documented: a dark-cover Submariner booklet (earlier) and a newer-style diver booklet with “Submariner” written in white (later). Warranty papers also came in two formats across the production run. Complete sets with box and papers already command premiums on the secondary market.


<span id="special-branches"></span>
<span id="special-branches"></span>
== Special branches ==
== Special branches ==
<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
File:Ref_16800_brochure-16808-16800.webp|alt=Rolex brochure : 16808 and 16800|Rolex brochure : 16808 and 16800
File:Ref 16800 ad-breadalbane-1985.webp|alt=1985 Rolex ad : Breadalbane Arctic search|1985 Rolex ad : Breadalbane Arctic search
File:Ref 16800 ad-tim-severin.webp|alt=Rolex ad : Tim Severin expedition|Rolex ad : Tim Severin expedition
</gallery>


<span id="comex"></span>
<span id="comex"></span>
=== COMEX ===
=== COMEX ===


Rolex produced approximately 300 numbered [[Reference:16800|16800]] Submariners for COMEX (Compagnie maritime d’expertises), the French deep-diving firm, between 1982 and 1986. These carry the COMEX name on the dial and a numbered COMEX engraving on the caseback. Both matte and gloss dial configurations exist across this production window.
Auction and specialist records describe approximately 300 numbered 16800s supplied to COMEX between 1982 and 1986. These watches carry COMEX dial and caseback markings; both matte and gloss configurations are documented.


A known issue affects the gloss-dial COMEX [[Reference:16800|16800]]: on tritium COMEX logo dials, small pieces of the applied COMEX marking would detach from the dial surface. Many affected watches received a [[Reference:16610|16610]] tritium replacement COMEX dial during service, meaning some COMEX [[Reference:16800|16800]] watches now wear a dial from the successor reference. This is a critical authentication detail — the replacement dial is period-correct in style but not original to the [[Reference:16800|16800]].
Specialist and auction records describe COMEX 16800 dials with detached or damaged applied COMEX markings and later service replacements. Some watches now carry a tritium COMEX dial associated with the 16610; that possibility must be checked against the individual dial, case, movement, and service record. A period-correct replacement is not the same as an original 16800 delivery configuration.


<span id="historical-market-and-auction-record"></span>
<span id="historical-market-and-auction-record"></span>
== Historical market and auction record ==
== Historical market and auction record ==


The [[Reference:16800|16800]] occupies a specific market position. It is too modern to carry the full vintage premium of a [[Reference:1680|1680]] or [[Reference:5513|5513]], but its short production run and landmark specifications — the first sapphire crystal, the move to 300m — give it real collector credibility. Early matte-dial examples on caliber 1575 attract the most attention from transitional-era specialists.
The auction and specialist record distinguishes early matte, later gloss, COMEX, and 168000 examples. Condition, originality, provenance, and parts fitment affect each result; no general premium is asserted here.


The 168000 “Triple Zero” sub-variant, when it appears as such, commands a premium above the standard [[Reference:16800|16800]] based on its extreme brevity of production and its role as the first 904L Submariner.
<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
Ref_16800_hero_2.webp|16800 hero
Ref 16800 gloss-dial-example.webp|Gloss dial
Ref 16800 spider-dial.webp|Spider dial
Ref 16800 matte-dial-late-83M-detail.webp|Matte dial detail
Ref 16800 matte-dial-late-83M.webp|Matte dial
Ref 16800 matte-dial-variation-chart.webp|Matte dial variation chart
Ref_16800_detail.webp|Case detail
Ref_16800_brochure-16808-16800.webp|Rolex brochure
Ref 16800 ad-breadalbane-1985.webp|1985 Rolex advertisement
Ref 16800 ad-tim-severin.webp|Rolex expedition advertisement
</gallery>


Specific lot-level auction data with hammer prices is not captured in this corpus. This is a gap that should be filled with targeted auction research.
== Related references ==
 
* [[Reference:16803|Submariner 16803]] : 1984–1988
* [[Reference:5513|Submariner 5513]] : Non-Date Classic (1962–1989)
* [[Reference:1680|Submariner 1680]] : First Date Sub, 'Red Sub' (1969–1979)
* [[Reference:5517|Submariner 5517]] : "MilSub", Military Issue (1971–1974)
* [[Reference:14060|Submariner 14060]] : Non-Date, Cal 3000 (1990–2000)
* [[Reference:5512|Submariner 5512]] : First Crown-Guard (1959–1978)
 
See also the [[Reference:submariner|Submariner family index]], [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|bracelet & clasp guide]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial numbers by year]].


== Sources ==
== Sources ==
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/rolex-submariner-history-part-2-the-55xx-1680references/ History of the Rolex Submariner - Part 2, The 55XX References and 1680 Date] — Tom Mulraney, Monochrome
* [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rolex_Submariner Wikipedia: Rolex Submariner] — family chronology
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/articles/how-to-start-collecting-the-rolex-submariner The Rolex Submariner: A Complete Collector's Guide] — Stephen Pulvirent, Sotheby's
* [https://www.rolex.com/watches/submariner Rolex Submariner technical material] — current family terminology
* The Vintage Rolex Field Manual, Chevalier Edition — Morning Tundra (James Dowling & Jeffrey Hess)
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6320621 Christie's COMEX 16800 catalogue] — individual COMEX evidence and chronology
* [https://rolexpassionmarket.com/the-vintage-rolex-buyers-guide/ The Complete Vintage Rolex Buyers Guide] — Philipp Stahl, Rolex Passion Market
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/rolex-submariner-history-part-2-the-55xx-1680references/ History of the Rolex Submariner - Part 2, The 55XX References and 1680 Date] : Tom Mulraney, Monochrome
* RolexForums 16800 thread bundle — RolexForums community, RolexForums
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/articles/how-to-start-collecting-the-rolex-submariner The Rolex Submariner: A Complete Collector's Guide] : Stephen Pulvirent, Sotheby's
 
* ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' : Colin A. White, Morning Tundra
* [https://journal.craftandtailored.com/the-crossroads-of-vintage-and-contemporary-the-reference-16800-rolex-submariner/ The Crossroads of Vintage and Contemporary: The 16800 Submariner] — Craft + Tailored, 2018
* [https://rolexpassionmarket.com/the-vintage-rolex-buyers-guide/ The Complete Vintage Rolex Buyers Guide] : Philipp Stahl, Rolex Passion Market
* [https://www.bobswatches.com/rolex-blog/watch-review/rolex-submariner-evolution-1680-16800-168000.html Rolex Submariner Evolution: 1680 vs 16800 vs 168000] — Bob's Watches
* RolexForums 16800 thread bundle (RolexForums)
* [https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/vintagerolexforum/rolex-16800-168000-dial-variation-t249940.html Rolex 16800/168000 Dial Variation] — hammywatch, mineralVRF, alligoat, Xeramic et al., Vintage Rolex Forum (2019)
* [https://journal.craftandtailored.com/the-crossroads-of-vintage-and-contemporary-the-reference-16800-rolex-submariner/ The Crossroads of Vintage and Contemporary: The 16800 Submariner] : Craft + Tailored, 2018
* [https://www.bobswatches.com/rolex-blog/watch-review/rolex-submariner-evolution-1680-16800-168000.html Rolex Submariner Evolution: 1680 vs 16800 vs 168000] : Bob's Watches
* [https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/vintagerolexforum/rolex-16800-168000-dial-variation-t249940.html Rolex 16800/168000 Dial Variation] : hammywatch, mineralVRF, alligoat, Xeramic et al., Vintage Rolex Forum (2019)


[[Category:Submariner]]
[[Category:Submariner]]
[[Category:Working Draft]]

Latest revision as of 23:47, 28 September 2026


Submariner › 16800

Rolex 16800 Submariner
Rolex 16800 Submariner

The 16800 is the transitional Submariner Date. Introduced around 1979 as the successor to the 1680, it arrived with three changes that would define the modern Submariner: a sapphire crystal (the first ever fitted to a Submariner), a 300m depth rating up from 200m, and a quick-set date via caliber 3035. Production ran until about 1988, when the 16610 took over for the next 23 years, with the brief 168000 “Triple Zero” slotted in between.

The sapphire crystal is the clearest visible break from the earlier Submariner references. The 1680, 5513, and 6538 used acrylic; later Submariner generations adopted sapphire.

Core facts

detail value
production approximately 1979 to 1988
family Submariner Date
crystal sapphire : first on any Submariner (landmark specification change)
water resistance 300m / 1000ft (up from 200m on the 1680)
case 40mm Oyster with crown guards
crown Triplock
movement caliber 3035, quick-set date and hacking
bracelet 93150 with 593 end links (the 501B end links belong to the 168000, not the 16800)
dial matte (early, tritium) transitioning to gloss (later)
lume tritium throughout
date wheel silver with open 6s and 9s (period-correct); RSC service replacements use closed 6/9 white date wheels
steel 316L stainless (the 168000 introduced 904L)
bezel action unidirectional ratcheting in documented 16800 descriptions; earlier references generally used friction bezels

Where it sits in the line

The 16800 bridges the earlier acrylic-crystal Submariners and the later 16610 generation. Its sapphire crystal, 300m rating, and caliber 3035 changed the technical specification while the case remained recognizably familiar.

The lineage through this period:

  • 1680 (1966–1979): acrylic crystal, 200m, caliber 1575/1570
  • 16800 (1979–1988): sapphire crystal, 300m, caliber 3035 (this reference)
  • 168000 “Triple Zero” (1986–1987, transitional): first 904L steel, 501B end links
  • 16610 (1989–2010): caliber 3135, fully modern

The two-tone and gold siblings, 16803 and 16808, share the same case architecture and movement but are separate references.

Production outline

The 16800 ran from roughly 1979 to 1988. The useful production divisions are the matte-to-gloss dial change and the short overlap with the 168000; auction catalogues describe the 16800 with caliber 3035.

Caliber 3035

Auction catalogues and the specialist references checked for this page identify the 16800 with caliber 3035, which brought the quick-set date and hacking seconds to the Submariner Date. A watch described as a factory 16800 with caliber 1575 needs movement, case, and delivery evidence; the reference number alone does not establish that configuration.

End of run: transition to 168000 and 16610

Around 1986–1987, production of the brief 168000 “Triple Zero” overlapped with the late 16800. The 168000 ran for about seven to nine months and is distinguished by its switch to 904L stainless steel (vs. 316L on the 16800) and its 501B end links (vs. 593 on the 16800). Some sources treat the 168000 as a late 16800 variant; others document it as a distinct reference. Either way, its production preceded the 16610.

Sources generally place the 168000 in 1986–1987; one collector study narrows it to a roughly seven-month 1987 run. Rolex has not published a serial-linked production calendar, so the year remains an approximate dating aid.

The 168000 “Triple Zero” transition

The name comes from the three consecutive zeros in the reference number. The transition is generally described as a short run of about seven to nine months and introduced 904L steel to the Submariner case. Mechanically the watch is a late 16800, caliber 3035 and all; the 16610 that followed upgraded to caliber 3135.

Movement notes

Caliber 3035 is the movement identified for the 16800 in the auction and specialist material reviewed here. It beats at 28,800 vph (4 Hz), has a quick-set date and hacking seconds, and is generally described with an approximately 42-hour power reserve. The movement number and service history should be checked on the individual watch.

The 3035 also appears in the Datejust 16000 series and other Rolex date references of the period, including the 16803 and 16808. The reference number does not establish interchangeability of cases or parts.

The white-gold hands on the 16800 tend to take on a slightly more yellow cast than on modern Submariners, a characteristic of the alloy and of aging from this era.

Cal. 3035 known maintenance issue

Watchmaker discussions identify the automatic winding axle and its upper jewel as service points on caliber 3035. Dried lubricant or wear can produce rotor play or binding, but the condition of an individual movement must be checked rather than assumed from age alone.

Dial map

Gloss dial with white gold surrounds
Gloss dial with white gold surrounds

Matte dials are associated with earlier production and gloss dials with later examples. Both are documented under the 16800 reference; service replacements can change the dial on an individual watch.

The matte-to-gloss transition happened during the 16800 run. Vintage Rolex Forum collectors place the changeover zone at about serial 8.4M to 8.6M, where both matte and gloss dials appear. Watches below 8.4M are predominantly matte, and watches above 8.6M are predominantly gloss. These boundaries are collector-derived approximations, not factory records.

A VRF matte dial comparison chart documents visible variations across the matte production run at serials 6.4M, 7.1M, 7.2M (also appearing at 8.3M), and 8.2M, with subtle differences in font weight, text spacing, and coronet proportions. One VRF member confirmed a matte dial still present at serial 8.275M and another at the end of the 8.3M range, which puts matte dials in use through the whole 8.3M band. Gloss dials on very early serial examples may be service replacements, but serial range alone cannot prove the replacement history.

The period-correct date wheel is silver with open 6s and 9s. RSC service replacements from about 1998 onward use a white date wheel with closed 6s and 9s. A closed-6/9 date wheel on a 16800 is a service indicator.

VRF threads also document service replacements in which matte dials were exchanged for gloss dials. A 16800 wearing a gloss dial in the earlier matte serial range may therefore have a later service dial. When evaluating an early-serial 16800, compare the dial type with serial context and documented service history. Originality and condition affect any market assessment.

Spider dials

Spider dial : lacquer crazing
Spider dial : lacquer crazing

Spider is collector shorthand for cracking in the gloss finish of some 16800 dials. The dial, printing, lume, and service history should be inspected to distinguish original aging from refinishing or replacement.

Tropical dials

Some black 16800 dials are described as tropical after changing toward brown. Color change does not by itself establish originality or cause; the individual dial needs inspection.

General dial notes

  • Late 8.3M matte dial detail
    Late 8.3M matte dial detail
  • Late 8.3M serial matte dial
    Late 8.3M serial matte dial
  • Matte dial variations across serial ranges
    Matte dial variations across serial ranges

Lume is tritium throughout. Dial markings show T SWISS T or T<25 depending on production date. Hands on this reference commonly age to a different color than the dial lume plots, a characteristic tritium-era aging pattern.

Case, bezel, crystal, and crown

Detail view
Detail view

The case retains the 40mm crown-guard Oyster form while adopting a flat sapphire crystal. Sapphire is more scratch-resistant than acrylic, but it can still be damaged or replaced.

The bezel uses an aluminum insert, black with a luminous pearl at 12; the same insert style continued through the 16610 era. The depth rating reads 300m / 1000ft, printed on the dial. The 16800 predates the engraved rehaut; its depth rating is printed on the dial. The crown is Triplock.

Bracelets, end links, clasps, and packaging notes

The 16800 was fitted with the 93150 Oyster bracelet on 593 end links. The documented 93150/593 fitment uses hollow end links and a fold-out diver extension. The 501B end link is associated with the 168000 in the cited reference material; a 501B on a 16800 requires an individual fitment and service-history review.

Against a modern Submariner the 16800 keeps drilled lug holes for spring-bar tool access, and it has neither the engraved Rolex ring on the inner dial flange (rehaut) nor the laser-etched coronet on the crystal. Successor references added all three.

Clasps on the 93150 carry date codes that help date the bracelet, not the watch head. A later clasp does not change the production date of the watch.

Three box configurations are documented across the 16800 run. The earliest boxes are the American horseshoe style; mid-production examples carry the Brettchen box with its sea-bottom motif; late production shipped in the tree-pattern box with a beige envelope.

Two booklet types are documented: a dark-cover Submariner booklet (earlier) and a newer-style diver booklet with “Submariner” written in white (later). Warranty papers also came in two formats across the production run. Box, papers, and booklet contents belong to the individual delivery set and should be checked against the watch's serial and provenance.

Special branches

  • Rolex brochure : 16808 and 16800
    Rolex brochure : 16808 and 16800
  • 1985 Rolex ad : Breadalbane Arctic search
    1985 Rolex ad : Breadalbane Arctic search
  • Rolex ad : Tim Severin expedition
    Rolex ad : Tim Severin expedition

COMEX

Auction and specialist records describe approximately 300 numbered 16800s supplied to COMEX between 1982 and 1986. These watches carry COMEX dial and caseback markings; both matte and gloss configurations are documented.

Specialist and auction records describe COMEX 16800 dials with detached or damaged applied COMEX markings and later service replacements. Some watches now carry a tritium COMEX dial associated with the 16610; that possibility must be checked against the individual dial, case, movement, and service record. A period-correct replacement is not the same as an original 16800 delivery configuration.

Historical market and auction record

The auction and specialist record distinguishes early matte, later gloss, COMEX, and 168000 examples. Condition, originality, provenance, and parts fitment affect each result; no general premium is asserted here.

  • 16800 hero
    16800 hero
  • Gloss dial
    Gloss dial
  • Spider dial
    Spider dial
  • Matte dial detail
    Matte dial detail
  • Matte dial
    Matte dial
  • Matte dial variation chart
    Matte dial variation chart
  • Case detail
    Case detail
  • Rolex brochure
    Rolex brochure
  • 1985 Rolex advertisement
    1985 Rolex advertisement
  • Rolex expedition advertisement
    Rolex expedition advertisement

Related references

See also the Submariner family index, movement reference, bracelet & clasp guide, and serial numbers by year.

Sources

Retrieved from "https://rolexopedia.net/index.php?title=Reference:16800&oldid=11032"