Reference:1680: Difference between revisions
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{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex Submariner 1680}} | |||
{{#seo: | {{#seo: | ||
|title=Rolex 1680 | |title=Rolex Submariner 1680 : First Date Sub, 'Red Sub', 1969–1979 | Rolexopedia | ||
|description=The 1680 | |description=The 1680 introduced a date window and Cyclops crystal to the Submariner line. The page covers Red Sub and White Sub dials, the 1680/8, COMEX, and documented signature-dial branches. | ||
|image=Ref 1680 hero.webp | |image=Ref 1680 hero.webp | ||
|image_alt=Rolex Submariner 1680 | |image_alt=Rolex Submariner 1680 : the first Submariner Date | ||
|type= | |type=Article | ||
|og_type=article | |og_type=article | ||
|published_time=2026-04-14T16:13:16Z | |published_time=2026-04-14T16:13:16Z | ||
|modified_time=2026- | |modified_time=2026-08-04T00:10:14Z | ||
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large | |robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large | ||
}} | }} | ||
<small>[[Reference:submariner|Submariner]] | <small>[[Reference:submariner|Submariner]] › '''1680'''</small> | ||
<div class="rp-lead"> | |||
[[File:Ref 1680 hero 2.webp|thumb|center|640px|alt=Rolex Submariner 1680|Rolex Submariner 1680]] | |||
</div> | |||
The | The 1680 introduced a date window to the Submariner line. It entered production around 1969 and is dated by different sources to 1979, 1980, or 1981 depending on whether the source means factory production or final delivery. It uses caliber 1575 in a 40mm Oyster case with crown guards, an acrylic Cyclops crystal, and 200m/660ft water resistance. | ||
Early dials print “Submariner” in red and later dials in white. Rolex also made the yellow-gold 1680/8 and supplied a small number of documented COMEX examples; these are separate evidence branches. | |||
<span id="core-facts"></span> | <span id="core-facts"></span> | ||
== Core facts == | == Core facts == | ||
{| class="wikitable" | {| class="wikitable rp-facts" | ||
|- | |- | ||
! detail | ! detail | ||
| Line 62: | Line 65: | ||
== Where it sits in the line == | == Where it sits in the line == | ||
The 1680 | The 1680 ran alongside the no-date 5512 and 5513 and established the Submariner Date branch. The Sea-Dweller already used a date aperture, but the 1680 paired it with the Submariner case and Cyclops crystal. The 16800 followed with sapphire crystal and caliber 3035 around the end of the 1680 period. | ||
The | |||
<span id="production-outline"></span> | <span id="production-outline"></span> | ||
== Production outline == | == Production outline == | ||
The | The production record is usually discussed as an early red-text period followed by white-text dials. Collector references subdivide the red dials into marks based on text and layout, but the serial ranges overlap and are not Rolex factory records. White-text examples belong to the later part of the run, with the end date still disputed by source. | ||
The production end date is not settled. Monochrome gives 1979. The Field Manual gives about 1981. The gap | The production end date is not settled. Tom Mulraney’s Monochrome history of the Submariner gives 1979; Colin A. White’s ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' gives about 1981. The gap probably comes down to whether the count ends at the last serial band or the last retail delivery. | ||
Both the gold 1680/8 and the small COMEX-branded allocation are treated as separate branches below. | |||
<span id="movement-notes"></span> | <span id="movement-notes"></span> | ||
== Movement notes == | == Movement notes == | ||
The 1680 uses caliber 1575 | The 1680 uses caliber 1575 with date, 19,800 vph, 26 jewels, and an approximately 48-hour reserve in published reference descriptions. Some movements have hacking seconds while earlier examples do not; the factory changeover is not securely established, so the individual movement should be inspected. | ||
<span id="dial-map"></span> | <span id="dial-map"></span> | ||
== Dial map == | == Dial map == | ||
<span id="red-submariner-dials"></span> | <span id="red-submariner-dials"></span> | ||
=== Red Submariner dials === | === Red Submariner dials === | ||
<gallery mode="packed" heights="180"> | |||
File:Ref 1680 dial-marks-comparison.webp|alt=Red Submariner 1680 on period NATO strap|Red Submariner 1680 on period NATO strap | |||
File:Ref 1680 dial-variant-red-feet-first.webp|alt=Red Submariner dial : feet-first depth rating variant|Red Submariner dial : feet-first depth rating variant | |||
File:Ref 1680 hero.webp|alt=Feet-first Red Submariner 1680 on Oyster bracelet|Feet-first Red Submariner 1680 on Oyster bracelet | |||
</gallery> | |||
“Red Sub” is the standard collector term for early 1680 dials where the word “Submariner” appears in red | “Red Sub” is the standard collector term for early 1680 dials where the word “Submariner” appears in red. | ||
The Field Manual | The Field Manual and Mark Lerman's reference primer describe six collector mark groups, with later Luminova service dials treated separately. The labels and serial ranges are collector frameworks, not Rolex production records. The full taxonomy runs: | ||
* Mark I: meters-first depth line (200m = 660ft). Approximately 2.07M–2.2M serials. | * Mark I: meters-first depth line (200m = 660ft). Approximately 2.07M–2.2M serials. | ||
| Line 115: | Line 112: | ||
=== Printing pad wear and dial variation === | === Printing pad wear and dial variation === | ||
Collectors attribute some small print differences to pad wear or batch variation, while others may reflect separate dial work. The marks are useful descriptive shorthand but do not establish deliberate factory revisions on their own. | |||
The meters-first to feet-first transition happened during the Red Sub era. Early dials read “200m = 660ft”; later dials read “660ft = 200m.” This | The meters-first to feet-first transition happened during the Red Sub era. Early dials read “200m = 660ft”; later dials read “660ft = 200m.” This divides the mark groups, but the serial ranges overlap and do not establish a factory sequence. | ||
<span id="visual-dial-characteristics-per-mark-authentication"></span> | <span id="visual-dial-characteristics-per-mark-authentication"></span> | ||
=== Visual dial characteristics per Mark | === Visual dial characteristics per Mark : authentication === | ||
The | The mark labels are descriptive shorthand. Authentication requires the dial, hands, case, movement, bezel, and service history to agree; serial ranges alone are insufficient. | ||
Mark I (about 2.07M–2.2M serials). Meters first. The single easiest tell is the condensed font; letters are noticeably narrower than any subsequent Mark. Red lettering sits over a white underlayer. The “6” in the depth text is elongated and closed; this is the only meters-first Mark with closed sixes. The “f” in “ft” curls upward above the “t,” unique among all six Marks. The width of the “Submariner” stamp matches the width of the depth rating line. A Red Sub with text that looks distinctly compressed compared to later examples is likely a Mark I. | Mark I (about 2.07M–2.2M serials). Meters first. The single easiest tell is the condensed font; letters are noticeably narrower than any subsequent Mark. Red lettering sits over a white underlayer. The “6” in the depth text is elongated and closed; this is the only meters-first Mark with closed sixes. The “f” in “ft” curls upward above the “t,” unique among all six Marks. The width of the “Submariner” stamp matches the width of the depth rating line. A Red Sub with text that looks distinctly compressed compared to later examples is likely a Mark I. | ||
| Line 128: | Line 125: | ||
Mark II (about 2.2M–2.45M, simultaneous with Mark III). Meters first. Red lettering is printed on a white background layer, the same method as Mark I. The “6” is open. The font is thinner than Mark III and the “F” is longer. Dials appear in black and brown (tropical). The key to separating Mark II from Mark III is the printing method. A visible white underlayer beneath the red lettering means Mark II. | Mark II (about 2.2M–2.45M, simultaneous with Mark III). Meters first. Red lettering is printed on a white background layer, the same method as Mark I. The “6” is open. The font is thinner than Mark III and the “F” is longer. Dials appear in black and brown (tropical). The key to separating Mark II from Mark III is the printing method. A visible white underlayer beneath the red lettering means Mark II. | ||
Mark III (about 2.2M–2.45M, simultaneous with Mark II). Still meters first. The red text is printed directly on the dial, without the white underlayer seen on Mark II. The “6” is open, the font is generally heavier, and the “F” is shorter. Black and tropical brown examples are both documented. | Mark III (about 2.2M–2.45M, simultaneous with Mark II). Still meters first. The red text is printed directly on the dial, without the white underlayer seen on Mark II. The “6” is open, the font is generally heavier, and the “F” is shorter. Black and tropical brown examples are both documented. Because their serial ranges overlap, the printing distinguishes Mark II from Mark III. White beneath the red points to Mark II; red on the dial surface points to Mark III. | ||
Mark IV (about 2.45M–3.xM serials, produced 1972–1973). The earliest feet-first dial. Red “Submariner” text is printed on a white underlayer, and the white base is visible at the edges under magnification. The “6” in “660” is widely open. The first “E” in “Chronometer” aligns vertically with the “D” in “Certified.” The “F” in “Ft” has an angular design. The Rolex crown oval opening is pointed with low branch bases. Bright red color intensity. | Mark IV (about 2.45M–3.xM serials, produced 1972–1973). The earliest feet-first dial. Red “Submariner” text is printed on a white underlayer, and the white base is visible at the edges under magnification. The “6” in “660” is widely open. The first “E” in “Chronometer” aligns vertically with the “D” in “Certified.” The “F” in “Ft” has an angular design. The Rolex crown oval opening is pointed with low branch bases. Bright red color intensity. | ||
Mark V (about 2.xM–3.xM serials, produced 1972–1973). Feet first. Red “Submariner” text is printed directly on the black dial surface with no white underlayer, giving a duller red than Mark IV. The “6” in “660” is narrower and more closed than Mark IV. The “RO” in “Chronometer” aligns vertically with the “ER” in “Certified.” The “F” in “Ft” has a rounded design with the F and T bars aligned (co-linear). The Rolex crown oval opening is rounded with high branch bases. | Mark V (about 2.xM–3.xM serials, produced 1972–1973). Feet first. Red “Submariner” text is printed directly on the black dial surface with no white underlayer, giving a duller red than Mark IV. The “6” in “660” is narrower and more closed than Mark IV. The “RO” in “Chronometer” aligns vertically with the “ER” in “Certified.” The “F” in “Ft” has a rounded design with the F and T bars aligned (co-linear). The Rolex crown oval opening is rounded with high branch bases. Some collector guides assign relative rarity scores, but those scores are not a production census. | ||
Mark VI (about 3.xM–4.0M serials, produced 1972–1975). Feet first. Red lettering printed directly on black dial surface. The “6” in “660” is closed, the only feet-first dial with closed sixes, making it immediately identifiable. The “S” in “Submariner” has a distinctly rounded appearance. Red is bright with thicker paint application than Mark V. The first “E” in “Superlative” aligns vertically with the “O” in “Officially.” The Rolex crown oval opening is rounded with low branch bases. This is the last | Mark VI (about 3.xM–4.0M serials, produced 1972–1975). Feet first. Red lettering printed directly on black dial surface. The “6” in “660” is closed, the only feet-first dial with closed sixes, making it immediately identifiable. The “S” in “Submariner” has a distinctly rounded appearance. Red is bright with thicker paint application than Mark V. The first “E” in “Superlative” aligns vertically with the “O” in “Officially.” The Rolex crown oval opening is rounded with low branch bases. This is generally described as the last red-text group; relative availability varies by source and market. | ||
Luminova service dial (Mark VII in some frameworks, sometimes called Mark VIII). Not a production dial. The text at the bottom reads only “SWISS,” with no depth rating. The lume glows brightly with Luminova rather than dimly with aged tritium. A | Luminova service dial (Mark VII in some frameworks, sometimes called Mark VIII). Not a production dial. The text at the bottom reads only “SWISS,” with no depth rating. The lume glows brightly with Luminova rather than dimly with aged tritium. A service dial is a replacement part and should be identified as such. | ||
<span id="brown-and-chocolate-dials"></span> | <span id="brown-and-chocolate-dials"></span> | ||
=== Brown and chocolate dials === | === Brown and chocolate dials === | ||
Some Red Sub dials have | Some Red Sub dials have changed from black to brown or chocolate, a condition collectors call tropical. Specialist references associate many examples with early meters-first groups, but the cause, serial range, and originality need individual inspection. The cited guide documents individual examples; it does not establish a universal population or price rule. | ||
Published explanations for tropical change remain hypotheses about lacquer composition and environment. A color shift should be described from the individual dial; storage history does not prove cause. | |||
Replacement during service is one reason original changed dials can be difficult to document, but no complete replacement record exists. | |||
<span id="white-submariner-dials"></span> | <span id="white-submariner-dials"></span> | ||
=== White Submariner dials === | === White Submariner dials === | ||
<gallery mode="packed" heights="180"> | |||
File:Ref_1680_dial-detail_2.webp|alt=Matte white-dial 1680 on the wrist|Matte white-dial 1680 on the wrist | |||
File:Ref 1680 dial-detail-white.webp|alt=White Submariner dial : all-white text, post-Red era|White Submariner dial : all-white text, post-Red era | |||
</gallery> | |||
After the red-text era, the word “Submariner” switched to white. White-text 1680 dials appear from about serial 4.0M onward: matte black with white text throughout and a feet-first depth line. The | After the red-text era, the word “Submariner” switched to white. White-text 1680 dials appear from about serial 4.0M onward: matte black with white text throughout and a feet-first depth line. The visual language starts converging with the successor 16800 from here. | ||
Three White Sub dial marks are documented: | Three White Sub dial marks are documented: | ||
* | * Mark I: Lemrich caseback, 121 prefix serial. | ||
* | * Mark II: Beyeler caseback, stamped “Beyeler Geneve.” | ||
* | * Mark III: Lemrich caseback, with a shifted L of ROLEX on the dial. | ||
The White | The White Mark I dials were made by Lemrich, and the coronet on Lemrich-made dials carries distinguishing marks that separate it from dials by other suppliers. | ||
For authentication, | For authentication, all three White Sub marks were produced and used simultaneously, not sequentially. The Mark numbers should not be read as a timeline. Rolex appears to have sourced dials from multiple suppliers (Lemrich, Beyeler) concurrently, and the Mark designations reflect supplier and visual differences rather than production chronology. | ||
The White Sub mark taxonomy is less established than the Red Sub taxonomy and appears less frequently in collector literature. | The White Sub mark taxonomy is less established than the Red Sub taxonomy and appears less frequently in collector literature. | ||
| Line 169: | Line 169: | ||
=== Lume patina === | === Lume patina === | ||
Tritium lume on Red Sub dials and hands ages over time as the radioactive material decays and the organic binder oxidizes. | Tritium lume on Red Sub dials and hands ages over time as the radioactive material decays and the organic binder oxidizes. Patina is one of the conditions collectors record on Red Sub dials. Lerman devised a practical 0–6 descriptive scale: | ||
{| class="wikitable" | {| class="wikitable" | ||
| Line 179: | Line 179: | ||
| 0 | | 0 | ||
| Stark white | | Stark white | ||
| Unworn appearance; | | Unworn appearance; unusual on a watch with documented use | ||
|- | |- | ||
| 1 | | 1 | ||
| Line 191: | Line 191: | ||
| 3 | | 3 | ||
| Golden yellow / creamy | | Golden yellow / creamy | ||
| | | Mid-range color change; assess originality and matching hands | ||
|- | |- | ||
| 4 | | 4 | ||
| Darker yellow turning brownish | | Darker yellow turning brownish | ||
| | | Mid-range color change; assess originality and matching hands | ||
|- | |- | ||
| 5 | | 5 | ||
| Line 206: | Line 206: | ||
|} | |} | ||
The grading scale is a collector description, not a market standard. Lume condition, originality, and matching hands must be assessed from the individual watch. | |||
Two rules govern how patina is evaluated. First, the dial and hands must match. A dial at grade 3 paired with stark white hands signals that the hands were replaced: both pieces should have aged together, and mismatched color temperature is a warning sign. Second, the patina should be even. Marbling (uneven or blotchy lume within a single plot) and dark spots both reduce value compared to smooth, consistent color. | Two rules govern how patina is evaluated. First, the dial and hands must match. A dial at grade 3 paired with stark white hands signals that the hands were replaced: both pieces should have aged together, and mismatched color temperature is a warning sign. Second, the patina should be even. Marbling (uneven or blotchy lume within a single plot) and dark spots both reduce value compared to smooth, consistent color. | ||
The relationship between wear, storage, environment, and lume aging is not fully documented. Do not infer storage history from lume color alone. | |||
<span id="dial-authentication-and-condition"></span> | <span id="dial-authentication-and-condition"></span> | ||
| Line 220: | Line 220: | ||
Red Sub dials are among the most faked and refinished components in vintage Rolex collecting. A correct original dial is a large fraction of the watch’s value, which means counterfeit and altered dials circulate in every market segment. The risks fall into five categories. | Red Sub dials are among the most faked and refinished components in vintage Rolex collecting. A correct original dial is a large fraction of the watch’s value, which means counterfeit and altered dials circulate in every market segment. The risks fall into five categories. | ||
Aftermarket and | Aftermarket and counterfeit dials can occur with other replaced parts. A suspected dial should be examined with the case, movement, hands, bezel, and provenance by a qualified specialist. | ||
Refinished dials | Refinished dials keep the original Rolex substrate but have had the printed and lumed material stripped and redone, usually poorly. Sellers who describe these as original Rolex dials are accurate only about the metal backing. Original printing and lume are central to identifying a period dial. Refinishing can be difficult to detect from a single photograph and requires close inspection of font, surface, and lume. | ||
Relumed dials | Relumed dials keep original printing but carry replaced lume in the plots. Relumed dials can differ from original tritium in height, texture, uniformity, and response to light. Those signs are leads for inspection, not a definitive test by themselves. | ||
Luminova service dials | Luminova service dials went on at Rolex when the original was damaged. They read only SWISS at the bottom, with no depth rating, and the lume glows bright Luminova rather than dim aged tritium. It is an authorized Rolex replacement and should not be described as an original red-text dial. | ||
Rolex service can replace a red-text dial with a later white-text or Luminova dial. A white-dial watch may therefore have an earlier case history, but the original configuration cannot be reconstructed from serial range alone. Any price difference depends on documented originality and condition. | |||
<span id="reading-dial-condition"></span> | <span id="reading-dial-condition"></span> | ||
=== Reading dial condition === | === Reading dial condition === | ||
Some dial imperfections confirm honest age. Others take money off the watch. | |||
Minor chipping at the hash marks where they meet the dial edge is a natural consequence of disassembly, and small chips at the dial perimeter are similarly unremarkable. Minor tritium loss at the outer edges of lume plots is common on any watch of this age. These read as honest wear. | Minor chipping at the hash marks where they meet the dial edge is a natural consequence of disassembly, and small chips at the dial perimeter are similarly unremarkable. Minor tritium loss at the outer edges of lume plots is common on any watch of this age. These read as honest wear. | ||
Large areas of tritium loss, missing complete hash marks, marbled or uneven patina, and any visible warping or lifting of the dial substrate are a different matter. Each of these | Large areas of tritium loss, missing complete hash marks, marbled or uneven patina, and any visible warping or lifting of the dial substrate are a different matter. Each of these is a condition concern that should be recorded in the lot description. | ||
<span id="case-bezel-crystal-and-crown"></span> | <span id="case-bezel-crystal-and-crown"></span> | ||
== Case, bezel, crystal, and crown == | == Case, bezel, crystal, and crown == | ||
<span id="crown-types"></span> | <span id="crown-types"></span> | ||
| Line 256: | Line 254: | ||
=== Insert (bezel) authentication === | === Insert (bezel) authentication === | ||
The 1680 uses the same 60-minute unidirectional graduated bezel as the contemporary 5512 and 5513. Two insert types | The 1680 uses the same 60-minute unidirectional graduated bezel as the contemporary 5512 and 5513. Two insert types matter. | ||
Collector references use ‘Fat Font’ for thicker-numbered inserts and describe further numeral-shape groupings. Inserts can fade or be replaced, so the label is a parts description rather than proof of original fitment or a price rule. | |||
The luminous pearl at the 12 o’clock position on the insert is tritium on originals. An intact original pearl is a completeness marker; most have lost their luminous material or broken off over the decades. Replacement pearls exist but are increasingly hard to source in period-correct condition. The pearl’s patina does not need to match the dial and hands closely, since it sits on the bezel rather than the dial surface. | The luminous pearl at the 12 o’clock position on the insert is tritium on originals. An intact original pearl is a completeness marker; most have lost their luminous material or broken off over the decades. Replacement pearls exist but are increasingly hard to source in period-correct condition. The pearl’s patina does not need to match the dial and hands closely, since it sits on the bezel rather than the dial surface. | ||
Thinner-numbered inserts and modern replacement pearls are documented service or replacement configurations. Their fitment and originality should be checked on the individual watch. | |||
Collector preferences for insert fonts and fading vary; no general price adjustment is asserted here. | |||
<span id="crystal"></span> | <span id="crystal"></span> | ||
| Line 274: | Line 272: | ||
=== Date wheel === | === Date wheel === | ||
Date-wheel typography varies by component and service history. Open or closed numerals can be a useful parts clue, but they do not authenticate an entire watch. | |||
<span id="caseback-date-codes"></span> | <span id="caseback-date-codes"></span> | ||
=== Caseback date codes === | === Caseback date codes === | ||
[[File:Ref 1680 caseback.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=Smooth screw-down caseback|Smooth screw-down caseback]] | |||
From about serial 2M through 3.4M, casebacks were stamped with a production date code on the inside surface. These codes record the quarter and year, beginning at “II 69” (second quarter 1969) and ending at “II 72” (second quarter 1972). Around serial 3M, the practice stopped. All watches from 1973 onward carry no caseback date code. | From about serial 2M through 3.4M, casebacks were stamped with a production date code on the inside surface. These codes record the quarter and year, beginning at “II 69” (second quarter 1969) and ending at “II 72” (second quarter 1972). Around serial 3M, the practice stopped. All watches from 1973 onward carry no caseback date code. | ||
| Line 288: | Line 287: | ||
== Bracelets, end links, clasps, and packaging == | == Bracelets, end links, clasps, and packaging == | ||
[[File:Ref 1680 bracelet-detail.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=1680 head | [[File:Ref 1680 bracelet-detail.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=1680 head : crown guard profile and bezel detail|1680 head : crown guard profile and bezel detail]] | ||
<span id="bracelets-authentication-guide"></span> | <span id="bracelets-authentication-guide"></span> | ||
=== Bracelets | === Bracelets : authentication guide === | ||
Five bracelets have been documented on the 1680 in collector literature, listed in historical order. The same authentication framework applies to the 5512 and 5513, which shared these bracelet families. | Five bracelets have been documented on the 1680 in collector literature, listed in historical order. The same authentication framework applies to the 5512 and 5513, which shared these bracelet families. | ||
| Line 297: | Line 296: | ||
The 7206 with 80 end pieces is the earliest fitment, found on early Red Subs. Riveted construction. | The 7206 with 80 end pieces is the earliest fitment, found on early Red Subs. Riveted construction. | ||
The 9315 folded link bracelet with 280 or 380 end pieces is | The 9315 folded link bracelet with 280 or 380 end pieces is a documented Red Sub fitment. The 9315 was manufactured until the late 1970s. 9315 is stamped on the links just before the end piece; end pieces carry 280 or 380 stamps; clasp date stamps range from 67 to 72, and an unstamped clasp is post-1973. A Patent Pending variant is documented from about 1967–1970; when the diver extension is unfolded, “Pat Pend” is stamped inside. The marking identifies that bracelet variant, but does not prove delivery with a particular watch. | ||
USA Made Riveted bracelets turn up on some original-owner watches. No model number stamped on the bracelet, no diver extension, no flip lock. End pieces are not separately stamped. The clasp carries date stamps. These were made in the United States rather than Switzerland. | USA Made Riveted bracelets turn up on some original-owner watches. No model number stamped on the bracelet, no diver extension, no flip lock. End pieces are not separately stamped. The clasp carries date stamps. These were made in the United States rather than Switzerland. | ||
| Line 303: | Line 302: | ||
The 7836 folded link was originally designed for the GMT-Master and Explorer II but physically fits the Red Sub case. It lacks the flip lock and diver extension of the 9315. Documented on some Red Sub examples but less common. | The 7836 folded link was originally designed for the GMT-Master and Explorer II but physically fits the Red Sub case. It lacks the flip lock and diver extension of the 9315. Documented on some Red Sub examples but less common. | ||
The 93150 solid link with 580 end pieces was introduced in the late 1970s and became standard on White Subs from about 1976 onward. Solid side links, individually removable for sizing, the most comfortable bracelet for daily wear. Less expensive than the 9315 because more examples survive in good condition. Clasp date codes use a letter-letter format. VA for 1976, VB for 1977, and so on through the alphabet. The 93150 is | The 93150 solid link with 580 end pieces was introduced in the late 1970s and became standard on White Subs from about 1976 onward. Solid side links, individually removable for sizing, the most comfortable bracelet for daily wear. Less expensive than the 9315 because more examples survive in good condition. Clasp date codes use a letter-letter format. VA for 1976, VB for 1977, and so on through the alphabet. The 93150 is more often seen on later examples and appears on some later Red Subs and White Subs; fitment remains watch-specific. | ||
Bracelet dating does not need to match the caseback date code exactly. A clasp dated one or two years after the caseback year is entirely plausible, since bracelets were stocked separately at retail. What matters is internal consistency and the absence of anachronisms. A 93150 on a very early Red Sub presented as “original” is a problem. | Bracelet dating does not need to match the caseback date code exactly. A clasp dated one or two years after the caseback year is entirely plausible, since bracelets were stocked separately at retail. What matters is internal consistency and the absence of anachronisms. A 93150 on a very early Red Sub presented as “original” is a problem. | ||
| Line 316: | Line 315: | ||
The large green-border certificate covers roughly serials above 2.8M. Thinner paper, with a Rolex watermark visible against light. The booklet was renamed ''Your Rolex'' and was no longer punched. | The large green-border certificate covers roughly serials above 2.8M. Thinner paper, with a Rolex watermark visible against light. The booklet was renamed ''Your Rolex'' and was no longer punched. | ||
A punched certificate with a case number matching the watch is stronger evidence than a blank or mismatched certificate, but papers still need to agree with the watch. The number should be written or stamped at time of sale by the authorized dealer and correspond to the case serial. Handwritten numbers inconsistent with period ink, blank certificates, and mismatched numbers are worth little. Papers alone do not prove originality; they require internal consistency with the watch. | |||
<span id="packaging"></span> | <span id="packaging"></span> | ||
=== Packaging === | === Packaging === | ||
Box and paper sets follow the general Rolex sports packaging evolution of the 1960s through 1980s. The red or burgundy Submariner box was standard. | Box and paper sets follow the general Rolex sports packaging evolution of the 1960s through 1980s. The red or burgundy Submariner box was standard. A period-correct box can support provenance, but it does not establish original delivery. | ||
<span id="special-branches"></span> | <span id="special-branches"></span> | ||
== Special branches == | == Special branches == | ||
<gallery mode="packed" heights="180"> | |||
File:Ref_1680_wrist-shot.webp|alt=White Sub 1680 in hand : collector example|White Sub 1680 in hand : collector example | |||
File:Ref 1680 hero 3.webp|alt=1680 on the wrist with Oyster bracelet|1680 on the wrist with Oyster bracelet | |||
</gallery> | |||
<span id="gold-submariner-16808"></span> | <span id="gold-submariner-16808"></span> | ||
=== Gold Submariner (1680/8) === | === Gold Submariner (1680/8) === | ||
<gallery mode="packed" heights="180"> | |||
File:Ref 1680 dial-detail-gold.webp|alt=18k gold 1680/8 Nipple dial|18k gold 1680/8 Nipple dial | |||
File:Ref 1680 dial-detail-gold 2.webp|alt=18k gold 1680/8 blue dial|18k gold 1680/8 blue dial | |||
</gallery> | |||
The 1680/8 is the | The 1680/8 is the yellow-gold version of the 1680 family. Catalogues document black and later blue dial/bezel combinations, including raised-marker or nipple-style dials. It is a separate material and provenance branch from the steel 1680. | ||
<span id="comex"></span> | <span id="comex"></span> | ||
=== COMEX === | === COMEX === | ||
Auction and specialist records document 1680 examples with COMEX dial and caseback markings. They lack the helium escape valve associated with the COMEX 5514. Delivery recipients, quantity, and whether any examples entered public sales require lot-level provenance; no universal distribution claim is made here. | |||
<span id="military-and-special-issue"></span> | <span id="military-and-special-issue"></span> | ||
| Line 350: | Line 349: | ||
The 1680 was not the primary military Submariner; that role fell to the 5513 and later the 5517 for British Ministry of Defence use. Individual 1680 examples with military provenance do surface, but these are case-by-case rather than a systematic program like the MilSub 5513/5517. | The 1680 was not the primary military Submariner; that role fell to the 5513 and later the 5517 for British Ministry of Defence use. Individual 1680 examples with military provenance do surface, but these are case-by-case rather than a systematic program like the MilSub 5513/5517. | ||
<span id="government-and-signature-commission-dials"></span> | |||
=== Government and signature commission dials === | |||
<gallery mode="packed" heights="180"> | |||
File:Ref 1680 government-oman-qaboos-signature.webp|alt=1680 with Sultan Qaboos bin Said signature dial|1680 with Sultan Qaboos bin Said signature dial | |||
File:Ref 1680 government-syria-assad-signature.webp|alt=1680 with Hafez al-Assad signature in red Arabic above 6 o'clock|1680 with Hafez al-Assad signature in red Arabic above 6 o'clock | |||
</gallery> | |||
Auction catalogues document 1680 examples with named government or retailer-linked signatures. | |||
Phillips and other auction records document yellow-gold and steel 1680 examples with Oman-linked signatures or Khanjar emblems. The named lots support those individual watches; they do not establish a complete commission population or universal delivery route. | |||
Auction records also document 1680 dials with an Arabic signature associated with Hafez al-Assad. The cited Explorer II lot establishes a cross-reference example; each 1680 requires its own provenance and construction review. | |||
<span id="historical-market-and-auction-record"></span> | <span id="historical-market-and-auction-record"></span> | ||
| Line 356: | Line 369: | ||
[[File:Ref 1680 historical-example.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=Collector-grade 1680 example|Collector-grade 1680 example]] | [[File:Ref 1680 historical-example.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=Collector-grade 1680 example|Collector-grade 1680 example]] | ||
The 1680 | Auction records cover steel Red and White Subs, gold 1680/8 examples, COMEX-marked watches, and named-signature dials. Collector interest and prices vary with originality, dial, provenance, condition, and completeness; no universal ranking or price ladder is asserted here. | ||
The auction record contains several distinct configurations. A Sotheby’s 2024 Red Sub retailed by Tiffany & Co., circa 1974, has case serial 3,740,344 and a Tiffany retailer signature. A Sotheby’s 2025 Red Sub with case serial 2,215,952 falls in the early meters-first Mark II/III serial range. A Sotheby’s 2024 gold 1680/8 “Nipple Dial” circa 1984 carried provenance from underwater cinematographer Al Giddings and was screenworn by Bill Paxton in the 1997 film ''Titanic''. Phillips in December 2024 offered Red Sub examples with Mark I and Mark II “Meter First” tropical dials. These are individual lots, not a reference-wide ranking. | |||
The auction records below should be read as individual results, not as a reference-wide price rule. | |||
<gallery mode="packed" heights="180"> | |||
Ref 1680 hero 2.webp|1680 hero | |||
Ref 1680 dial-marks-comparison.webp|Red Sub dial marks | |||
Ref 1680 dial-variant-red-feet-first.webp|Feet-first Red dial | |||
Ref 1680 hero.webp|Red Sub example | |||
Ref_1680_dial-detail_2.webp|White Sub dial | |||
Ref 1680 dial-detail-white.webp|White Sub dial detail | |||
Ref 1680 caseback.webp|Caseback | |||
Ref 1680 bracelet-detail.webp|Bracelet and case | |||
Ref_1680_wrist-shot.webp|White Sub wrist shot | |||
Ref 1680 hero 3.webp|Wrist example | |||
Ref 1680 dial-detail-gold.webp|Gold dial | |||
Ref 1680 dial-detail-gold 2.webp|Gold blue dial | |||
Ref 1680 government-oman-qaboos-signature.webp|Oman-linked signature dial | |||
Ref 1680 government-syria-assad-signature.webp|Arabic signature dial | |||
Ref 1680 historical-example.webp|Historical example | |||
</gallery> | |||
== Related references == | |||
* [[Reference:5513|Submariner 5513]] : Non-Date Classic (1962–1989) | |||
* [[Reference:5517|Submariner 5517]] : "MilSub", Military Issue (1971–1974) | |||
* [[Reference:5512|Submariner 5512]] : First Crown-Guard (1959–1978) | |||
* [[Reference:16800|Submariner 16800]] : 1979–1988 | |||
* [[Reference:16803|Submariner 16803]] : 1984–1988 | |||
* [[Reference:5508|Submariner 5508]] : 1957–1961 | |||
See also the [[Reference:submariner|Submariner family index]], [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|bracelet & clasp guide]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial numbers by year]]. | |||
<gallery mode="packed" heights="180"> | |||
Ref 1680 hero 2.webp|1680 Submariner Date lead example | |||
Ref 1680 dial-marks-comparison.webp|Red Sub dial mark comparison | |||
Ref 1680 dial-detail-white.webp|White Sub dial detail | |||
Ref 1680 caseback.webp|1680 caseback detail | |||
Ref 1680 dial-detail-gold.webp|Gold 1680/8 dial | |||
Ref 1680 government-oman-qaboos-signature.webp|Oman-linked signature dial | |||
</gallery> | |||
== Sources == | == Sources == | ||
* ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' | * [https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-submariner-reference-points Hodinkee: Reference Points — Understanding the Rolex Submariner] — 1680 chronology and successor context | ||
* [https://web.archive.org/web/20140405064142/http://rolex.watchprosite.com/show-forumpost/fi-732/pi-4075146/ti-649211/s-0/ Rolex Red Submariner Reference Primer] | * [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rolex_Submariner Wikipedia: Rolex Submariner] — Submariner family chronology | ||
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/rolex-submariner-history-part-2-the-55xx-1680references/ History of the Rolex Submariner - Part 2, The 55XX References and 1680 Date] | * [https://www.sothebys.com/en/articles/how-to-start-collecting-the-rolex-submariner Sotheby's Submariner collector guide] — reference and auction context | ||
* [https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-submariner-reference-points Reference Points: Understanding The Rolex Submariner] | * ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' : Colin A. White, Morning Tundra | ||
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/articles/how-to-start-collecting-the-rolex-submariner The Rolex Submariner: A Complete Collector's Guide] | * [https://web.archive.org/web/20140405064142/http://rolex.watchprosite.com/show-forumpost/fi-732/pi-4075146/ti-649211/s-0/ Rolex Red Submariner Reference Primer] : Mark Lerman, WatchProSite (2010) | ||
* [https://rolexpassionmarket.com/the-vintage-rolex-buyers-guide/ The Complete Vintage Rolex Buyers Guide] | * [https://monochrome-watches.com/rolex-submariner-history-part-2-the-55xx-1680references/ History of the Rolex Submariner - Part 2, The 55XX References and 1680 Date] : Tom Mulraney, Monochrome | ||
* [https://www.watchprosite.com/rolex/rolex-fat-font-inserts-explored-mk1-through-mk3/732.849983.5769208/ A Comprehensive Guide to Vintage Rolex Submariner MK1 through MK3 Bezel Inserts] | * [https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-submariner-reference-points Reference Points: Understanding The Rolex Submariner] : Stephen Pulvirent, Hodinkee | ||
* [https://www.drsd.com/watch-info/red-sub/redsub.html The Red Submariner | * [https://www.sothebys.com/en/articles/how-to-start-collecting-the-rolex-submariner The Rolex Submariner: A Complete Collector's Guide] : Stephen Pulvirent, Sotheby's | ||
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/important-watches-ii/rolex-submariner-reference-1680-red-with-tiffany Rolex Submariner Reference 1680 Red with Tiffany dial signature] | * [https://rolexpassionmarket.com/the-vintage-rolex-buyers-guide/ The Complete Vintage Rolex Buyers Guide] : Philipp Stahl, Rolex Passion Market | ||
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2025/watches/red-submariner-1680 Rolex Red Submariner 1680 lot 2025] | * [https://www.watchprosite.com/rolex/rolex-fat-font-inserts-explored-mk1-through-mk3/732.849983.5769208/ A Comprehensive Guide to Vintage Rolex Submariner MK1 through MK3 Bezel Inserts] : WatchProSite community, WatchProSite | ||
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/important-watches/rolex-submariner-1680-8-giddings-titanic Rolex Submariner 1680/8 Giddings Titanic gold lot 2024] | * [https://www.drsd.com/watch-info/red-sub/redsub.html The Red Submariner : Collecting the Rolex Reference 1680 Red Sub] : Mark Lerman, DRSD.com | ||
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/NY080424/22 Phillips Red Sub 1680 tropical MK I/II lot December 2024] | * [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/important-watches-ii/rolex-submariner-reference-1680-red-with-tiffany Rolex Submariner Reference 1680 Red with Tiffany dial signature] : Sotheby's, Sotheby's | ||
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2025/watches/red-submariner-1680 Rolex Red Submariner 1680 lot 2025] : Sotheby's, Sotheby's | |||
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/important-watches/rolex-submariner-1680-8-giddings-titanic Rolex Submariner 1680/8 Giddings Titanic gold lot 2024] : Sotheby's, Sotheby's | |||
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/NY080424/22 Phillips Red Sub 1680 tropical MK I/II lot December 2024] : Phillips, Phillips | |||
[[Category:Submariner]] | [[Category:Submariner]] | ||