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{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex 14060 Submariner}}
{{#seo:
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Submariner 14060 — BezelBase
|title=Rolex Submariner 14060 — Non-Date, Cal 3000, 1989–1999 | Rolexopedia
|description=The 14060 is the first modern no-date Submariner and the direct successor to the long-running 5513. It arrived around 1990, closing a thirty-year chapter…
|description=The 14060 is the first sapphire-era no-date Submariner. 1989 to 1999, caliber 3000 (27 jewels, 28,800 vph, hacking, no quickset), 300m water resistance, two-line dial throughout, tritium → Luminova → Super-LumiNova lume transitions, 93150 / 78360 Oyster bracelet.
|keywords=Rolex, 14060, Submariner, specifications, reference guide
|keywords=Rolex, 14060, Submariner, no date, caliber 3000, sapphire, 300m, tritium, Luminova, two-line dial
|type=article
|image=Ref 14060 hero.webp
|image_alt=Rolex Submariner Ref. 14060
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|published_time=2026-04-14T16:13:15Z
|modified_time=2026-08-04T00:08:41Z
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
}}
}}


<small>[[Reference:submariner|Submariner]] › '''14060'''</small>


<small>[[Reference:submariner|Submariner]] → '''14060'''</small>
<div class="rp-lead">
[[File:Ref 14060 hero.webp|thumb|center|640px|alt=Rolex 14060 Submariner|Rolex 14060 Submariner]]
</div>


{{Infobox Reference
The 14060 is the first sapphire-era no-date Submariner in the cited lineage, bridging the long-running [[Reference:5513|5513]] (acrylic, 200m, no date) and the modern ceramic line. Specialist references place its production from 1989 to 1999, although some auction catalogues date individual examples to around 2001. Caliber 3000 carries 27 jewels and 28,800 vph with hacking seconds; there is no quickset because this reference has no date.
| reference = 14060
| family = Submariner
| status = working-draft
| quality = collector-grade
| sources = 7
| image_status = pending-source
}}


The depth rating rises from the 5513's 200m to 300m, with a Triplock crown replacing the earlier Twinlock arrangement. The 14060 keeps the two-line dial and all-black bezel used on this no-date generation. What moves across the production window is the lume — tritium, then Luminova, then Super-LumiNova. The [[Reference:14060M|14060M]] replaces the reference in 1999 with the chronometer-rated caliber 3130.


The 14060 is the first modern no-date Submariner and the direct successor to the long-running 5513. It arrived around 1990, closing a thirty-year chapter that stretched back to the original no-date tool watch tradition. Where the 5513 stayed with acrylic crystal and 200m water resistance through its entire life, the 14060 stepped into the sapphire-crystal, 300m, Triplock era from day one. It held that position until around 2000, when the 14060M took over with an upgraded caliber.
<span id="core-facts"></span>
 
A clear lineage runs through the no-date branch: 5513 → 14060 → 14060M → 114060. Each step adds specification without abandoning the core identity — no date, aluminum bezel, tool-watch intent.


<span id="core-facts"></span>
== Core facts ==
== Core facts ==


{| class="wikitable"
{| class="wikitable rp-facts"
|-
|-
! detail
! detail
Line 38: Line 39:
|-
|-
| production
| production
| approximately 1990 to 2000
| 1989–1999 working span; some catalogues date individual examples later
|-
| movement
| caliber 3000, non-COSC, 28,800 vph (see movement notes for discrepancy)
|-
|-
| case
| case
| 40mm, 904L steel, Oyster, drilled lug holes
| 40mm Oyster with crown guards, sapphire crystal, Triplock crown — first sapphire-era no-date Sub
|-
|-
| crystal
| water resistance
| sapphire, flat, no Cyclops
| 300m / 1000ft (up from the 5513's 200m / 660ft)
|-
|-
| water resistance
| movement
| 300m / 1000ft
| caliber 3000, 27 jewels, 28,800 vph, ~48-hour reserve, hacking seconds. No quickset (no date complication on this reference). Non-chronometer
|-
|-
| crown
| dial
| Triplock screw-down
| two-line throughout the run — "Submariner" + "300m=1000ft." Four-line OCC / SCOC text never appears on the 14060; that arrives only on the 14060M after 2007
|-
|-
| bezel
| bezel
| unidirectional 60-click, aluminum insert, black
| 24-hour bidirectional — all-black aluminium insert only
|-
| bracelet
| Oyster ref.93150, 501B end links, stamped hollow Fliplock clasp
|-
| dial
| 2-line (“Submariner” + depth rating), white gold applied markers
|-
|-
| lume
| lume
| tritium (early), Luminova (late, ~1998–1999)
| tritium "T<25" through approximately 1997/98; a narrow "Swiss only" transition; later "Swiss Made" Luminova dials
|-
|-
| rehaut
| bracelet
| plain, no engraving
| 93150 with 593 hollow end-links on cited early examples; 78360 and 501B service-end-link fitments also documented
|-
| case back
| solid steel, fluted
|-
| predecessor
| 5513
|-
|-
| successor
| successor
| 14060M
| [[Reference:14060M|14060M]] (1999 onward, COSC-rated caliber 3130, M-suffix indicates chronometer)
|}
|}


<span id="no-date-lineage-and-historical-position"></span>
<span id="no-date-lineage"></span>
== No-date lineage and historical position ==
== No-date lineage and historical position ==


The 14060 is the transitional reference in the no-date Submariner lineage. Its predecessor, the 5513, ran from 1962 to approximately 1990 — one of the longest production runs of any reference in the Submariner family. No sapphire crystal, no 300m rating, and its later production overlapped with the earliest transitional Rolex sport models.
The 14060 closes the acrylic-crystal era of the no-date Submariner and opens the sapphire era. The [[Reference:5513|5513]] (1962–1989, acrylic, 200m, caliber 1530 early on, 1520 for the long run) is the long predecessor; the 14060 carries the no-date position into the modern Sub case with a sapphire crystal, a Triplock crown and the 300m rating. It is the first no-date Submariner in the cited lineage documented with both sapphire crystal and a Triplock crown.


The 14060 resolved all of that at once. Sapphire crystal replaced acrylic. The 300m rating replaced the older 200m specification. Triplock replaced the earlier crown types. But the no-date, non-chronometer identity carried straight through. The dial remained clean — two lines of text, no date window, no COSC certification language. That restraint is the connecting thread from the 5513 through the 14060 and into the later 14060M 2-liner.
It is also the last no-date Submariner to ship without chronometer certification. The two-line dial reads "Submariner / 300m=1000ft" with none of the "Officially Certified Chronometer" wording the 14060M's caliber 3130 would go on to earn. The 14060 is the sapphire-era, non-chronometer no-date reference in this sequence.
 
Collectors who trace the clean no-date Submariner lineage start with the 5513 and run through the 14060. The 14060M 2-liner extends it; the 114060 continues it. The 14060 is the bridge.


<span id="production-outline"></span>
<span id="production-outline"></span>
== Production outline ==
== Production outline ==


The 14060 run is short and uniform compared to the multi-era 5513. No dramatic dial families, no variant branches, no military contracts. A 1991 example looks essentially the same as a 1999 example, with one visible exception.
Production ran from 1989, replacing the 5513, through 1999, when the 14060M took over. Specialist coverage occasionally gives 1990, but 1989 is the dominant editorial reading and it matches the catalogue transition.


<span id="production-date-discrepancy"></span>
<span id="tritium-period"></span>
=== Production date discrepancy ===
=== Tritium period (1989 to approximately 1997 / 1998) ===


Most independent sources — Monochrome, Bob’s Watches, Millenary Watches, and Fratello — place the 14060 production run at approximately 1990 to 2000. The Vintage Rolex Field Manual gives a significantly wider range that would overlap with the 14060M era. The Field Manual figure may reflect factory parts records or internal production data rather than retail availability. Until factory documentation is available, the ~1990–2000 range from multiple independent collector sources is the working estimate.
"SWISS – T<25" at the bottom of the dial, tritium in the plots. The lume ages cream, then warm beige, then mustard depending on how much UV the watch has seen. Late-tritium U-serial examples from 1997 are represented in the cited auction and dealer records.


<span id="tritium-period"></span>
<span id="swiss-only-transitional"></span>
=== Tritium period ===
=== "Swiss only" transitional dial (approximately 1998) ===


Most of the run used tritium lume. These dials carry T &lt; 25 near 6 o’clock and read T SWISS MADE T at the bottom. Tritium-dialed 14060 examples are the majority and age distinctively — the lume darkens with time, giving the markers a warm patina that tritium collectors prefer. That aging is one of the most appealing characteristics of the reference.
A narrow window produced dials marked only "SWISS" at the bottom, with no T<25 and no SWISS MADE. The cited examples treat these as factory output from the lume changeover; their production share and service history are not established.


<span id="luminova-period"></span>
<span id="luminova-period"></span>
=== Luminova period ===
=== Luminova period (approximately 1998 to 1999) ===
 
Around 1998–1999, Rolex switched the 14060 to Luminova lume. Late dials drop the tritium markings and read SWISS MADE at the bottom. Luminova stays brighter longer but loses the warm patina that comes with tritium degradation. Different appeal entirely.
 
The approximate serial band for this changeover is collector-documented rather than Rolex-confirmed. Working from observed examples, the transition tracks roughly as follows:
 
* '''Tritium dials''': X series through early P series (<sub>1991–</sub>1999)
* '''“Swiss Only” transitional dials''': approximately U to A series (~1997–1999). These transitional dials read SWISS at 6 o’clock — without the T prefix of tritium dials or the full SWISS MADE of settled Luminova production. Rolex Forum documentation identifies “Swiss Only” as a named variant within the lume changeover window, bridging the tritium and Luminova eras on the 14060.
* '''Luminova dials''': approximately A series onward (~1999), reading SWISS MADE at 6 o’clock.
 
'''Lume mismatch on late tritium-marked dials''': Rolex Forum members have documented 14060 dials that carry T &lt; 25 tritium text but were actually filled with Luminova at the factory. These watches are identifiable because the lume still glows brightly when charged — genuine tritium of this age would show minimal glow. The mismatch indicates that Rolex began using Luminova material before updating the printed dial text, creating a brief window where the dial marking does not match the actual lume compound applied.
 
These are collector approximations. Rolex assembled from stock, so individual watches near the transition may vary — a P-serial 14060 might carry tritium, and an A-serial might carry Luminova. The difference is visible on the dial foot text and is the main identification point for early versus late 14060 examples.
 
<span id="movement-notes-caliber-discrepancy"></span>
== Movement notes — caliber discrepancy ==
 
'''This is an unresolved discrepancy in the source record and must be flagged explicitly.'''


The Vintage Rolex Field Manual lists the 14060 movement as caliber '''3030'''. Most other collector documentation — including Monochrome, Bob’s Watches, Millenary Watches, and the Fratello 14060M retrospective — references caliber '''3000''' for this reference. Both figures appear in period literature. The discrepancy is unresolved.
"SWISS MADE" at the bottom, Luminova in place of tritium. The run continues into the 1999 transition to the 14060M and caliber 3130. Late P-serial Luminova examples are documented near the production tail; a serial or warranty date should not by itself be treated as an exact factory boundary.


Working from the majority of collector sources, the 14060 is documented here as using caliber 3000. The 3000 is an automatic movement beating at 28,800 vph with approximately 48 hours of power reserve. It is not COSC-certified. Related to the 3035 used in date Submariners of the same era, minus the date complication, the 3000 uses a Microstella regulator and Breguet overcoil hairspring.
<span id="movement-notes"></span>
== Movement notes ==


'''Resolution approach''': The only definitive check is visual — open the caseback and read the rotor bridge engraving. Caliber 3000 will be engraved ‘3000’ on the rotor bridge; caliber 3030 will be engraved ‘3030’. The two movements are mechanically similar (both non-quickset, no-date automatics) but have different specifications. For in-person authentication, this is the definitive check. From photographs only, the discrepancy cannot be resolved without a clear image of the movement.
Caliber 3000 carries 27 jewels, 28,800 vph, an approximately 48-hour reserve, and hacking seconds, and it is non-chronometer. It is the time-only sister to the 3035 and 3135 that run the date Submariners, and without a date complication there is no quickset. The architecture carries forward into the 14060M's caliber 3130 with chronometer regulation added and the no-date logic preserved.


One plausible explanation for the Field Manual’s 3030 listing is that early 14060 production (possibly X-series, ~1991–1992) used caliber 3030, with a transition to 3000 occurring during the run. Serial-band evidence would resolve it — but no such systematic evidence has been compiled in the collector literature to date.
The 14060 is a non-COSC reference. The "M" in 14060M is commonly expanded as "Modified" and marks the later caliber 3130 generation, which also received chronometer certification. The 14060 dial reads "Submariner / 300m=1000ft." The 14060M would later add the two "Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified" lines.
 
The lack of COSC certification distinguishes the 14060 from the 14060M that followed. The 14060M moved to caliber 3130, which — from mid-2007 — carries a COSC superlative chronometer rating. Some collectors prefer the 14060 over the 14060M precisely for the simpler, less-scrutinized movement. Part of the reference’s honest tool-watch character.


<span id="dial-map"></span>
<span id="dial-map"></span>
== Dial map ==
== Dial map ==


The 14060 dial is glossy black with applied white gold surround markers and Mercedes hands with luminous fill. Depth rating reads 300m / 1000ft.
Two-line standard layout throughout. The four-line dial — the two extra chronometer lines collectors abbreviate to OCC or SCOC — never appears on the 14060; that wording arrives only on the 14060M after 2007.


No major dial families or variant branches exist. The main distinction is lume type:
Early dials, 1989 to approximately 1997/98, carry "SWISS – T<25" tritium text and lume that ages to a cream-to-warm-beige patina. The narrow "Swiss only" run around 1998 shows just "SWISS" at the bottom. The cited examples treat this as factory output from the lume changeover; its frequency is not established. Later dials, around 1998–1999, switch to "SWISS MADE" and Luminova. The available sources do not establish the relative share of each late-run dial.


* '''Tritium dials''': T &lt; 25 marking, T SWISS MADE T at 6 o’clock. The majority of the run. Some late tritium-marked dials actually contain Luminova (see Luminova period section above).
The dial wording stays "Submariner / 300m=1000ft" throughout. Applied indices with white-gold surrounds sit on a glossy black lacquer ground. Mercedes hour and minute hands pair with a lollipop seconds hand carrying a small luminous tip. A small subset of late-tritium and Luminova examples develop spider cracks in the glossy lacquer, a known formulation problem on the period dials.
* '''“Swiss Only” transitional dials''': SWISS at 6 o’clock, no T prefix. U/A serial range (~1997–1999). A named variant documented on Rolex Forum.
* '''Luminova dials''': SWISS MADE at 6 o’clock, no tritium marking. Late production, circa 1999 onward.


The layout is 2-line: SUBMARINER above the depth line and OYSTER PERPETUAL below the coronet. No SUPERLATIVE CHRONOMETER text, because the watch is not COSC-certified. This is the clearest visual difference from the later 14060M 4-liner, which added chronometer text from mid-2007, and it aligns the 14060 visually with the 5513 tradition of an uncluttered tool-watch face.
<span id="case-bezel-crystal-and-crown"></span>
== Case, bezel, crystal, and crown ==


The clean 2-line dial is a point collectors value precisely because it is the last expression of that tradition at the transition from acrylic to sapphire — the link between the vintage no-date world and the modern one.
The case is the standard 40mm Submariner Oyster with crown guards in 904L stainless steel. The sapphire crystal sits flat over the dial without a Cyclops magnifier; the date Submariner references carry one, and the no-date 14060 has no date window to magnify.


<span id="case-bezel-crystal-and-crown-notes"></span>
The Triplock screw-down crown is the structural upgrade from the 5513's older Twinlock — three sealing points instead of two, which is what supports the 300m rating. The bezel is a 24-hour bidirectional aluminium insert in all-black only. The cited 14060 examples use an all-black aluminium insert; no coloured 14060 insert is documented in the reviewed sources.
== Case, bezel, crystal, and crown notes ==


The case is 40mm 904L stainless steel with an Oyster architecture and crown guards. Drilled lug holes are present throughout the run. Slimmer lugs than the later 114060 Maxi case give the 14060 a feel more connected to its vintage predecessors. The case back is solid steel with fluted edges.
<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
File:Ref 14060 case-serial.webp|Case flank with the reference number stamped between the lugs
File:Ref 14060 caseback.webp|Plain, unengraved caseback
</gallery>


The bezel is unidirectional rotating with 60 clicks and a black aluminum insert — the same insert family used across the 5513, 16800, and 16610. Aluminum scratches and fades over time, a characteristic that ceramic bezels cannot replicate and that many collectors consider an honest marker of genuine use.
<span id="bracelets-end-links-clasps-and-packaging"></span>
== Bracelets, end links, clasps, and packaging notes ==


Flat sapphire crystal without a Cyclops magnifier. This is the defining upgrade over the 5513, which kept acrylic through its entire run. Clean face, no date-window bubble.
Cited early-to-mid production examples use the Oyster 93150 with 593 hollow end-links, the same cross-family bracelet code used on the 5513, 1680, 16800 and early 16610. Later examples are shown with the Oyster 78360, a heavier bracelet with the same overall geometry as the 93150. SEL service end-links 501B replace the older 593 hollow end-links on service-era refits, so bracelet originality needs case-and-clasp-date verification rather than the end-link stamp alone.


The crown is Triplock screw-down with three sealed zones for 300m water resistance. It carries the Rolex coronet and three dots below, distinguishing it from the earlier Twinlock crown used on the 5513 late production.
The clasp-date code is the cleanest single bracelet-originality test. Folding Oyster clasps with stamped year codes appear on most documented examples, and a clasp dating later than the case head implies a swap or a service-era replacement.


The rehaut is plain and unengraved, consistent with all Rolex sport models before the mid-2000s engraved-rehaut rollout.
<span id="historical-market-and-auction-record"></span>
== Historical market and auction record ==


<span id="bracelets-end-links-clasps-and-packaging-notes"></span>
== Bracelets, end links, clasps, and packaging notes ==


The 14060 ships on bracelet ref.93150, an Oyster with 501B end links and a stamped hollow Fliplock clasp with diver extension. The 93150 uses hollow center links and hollow end links throughout the 14060 production run, distinguishing it from the later 93250 with solid center links and solid end links (SEL) that appeared on the 14060M.
{| class="wikitable sortable"
|-
! Sale !! Lot !! Year of watch !! Configuration
|-
| Sotheby's || not stated || c.1995 || cal 3000 27j, folding Oyster clasp
|-
| Sotheby's "Class of 2019" || not stated || c.1997 || two-line tritium, sold 2019
|-
| Sotheby's Watches 3 || not stated || c.2001 || late-run example
|-
| Antiquorum Geneva || 372/124 || 2024 || two-line full set with box and warranty
|-
| Phillips || not stated || 2022 || two-line tritium
|-
| Lot-Art / Catawiki || — || 2021 || c.1994 mid-run example
|-
| Lot-Art / Catawiki || — || 1990–1999 || "Swiss only" transitional dial — rare lume-window example
|}


This is the same bracelet reference used on late 5513 examples and on the 16610 of the same era. Lighter and slightly rattly compared to the later solid-link bracelets, that characteristic rattle is part of the five-digit era identity and is expected on honest examples. A quiet, tight-feeling 93150 is a warning sign of a replaced bracelet.
The reviewed auction and dealer records show that condition, dial originality, accessories, and bracelet history affect asking prices. Dealer prices change over time and are not used here as a reference-wide band. A full set or matching clasp may help document a particular watch, but does not establish factory originality on its own.


Exact clasp code variations across the run are not mapped in the current evidence set. The same caution applies universally: a clasp stamp dates the clasp, not the watch head.
== Related references ==


<span id="special-branches"></span>
* [[Reference:16618|Submariner 16618]]: 1988–2009
== Special branches ==
* [[Reference:16610|Submariner 16610]]: Date, Cal 3135 (1988–2010)
* [[Reference:16613|Submariner 16613]]: 1989–2009
* [[Reference:16613LB|Submariner 16613LB]]: 1989–2009
* [[Reference:16613LN|Submariner 16613LN]]: 1989–2009
* [[Reference:16803|Submariner 16803]]: 1984–1988


No major special branches are known for the 14060. A commercial reference without military contracts or retailer-specific variants, collector interest focuses on condition, lume type, and completeness (box and papers) rather than variant hunting. The tritium / “Swiss Only” / Luminova lume progression is the only meaningful production branch.
See also the [[Reference:submariner|Submariner family index]], [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|bracelet & clasp guide]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial numbers by year]].


<span id="historical-market-and-auction-record"></span>
<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
== Historical market and auction record ==
File:Ref 14060 hero.webp|Rolex Submariner 14060, sapphire-era two-line dial
File:Ref 14060 case-serial.webp|14060 case flank and reference stamp
File:Ref 14060 caseback.webp|14060 plain caseback
File:Ref 14060 clasp.webp|78360 clasp interior documented on a 14060 bracelet
</gallery>


The 14060 occupies an accessible position in the Submariner market — neither old enough for strong vintage premiums nor new enough to have modern ceramic-bezel appeal. Its strength is the clean 2-line dial and its position as the direct successor to the 5513. The bridge reference.
== Sources ==


Tritium examples tend to carry a modest premium over Luminova examples because of the warmer lume patina and the connection to the older tritium tradition that ran through the 5513 and 16800 eras. Complete examples with original bracelet and papers are preferred; the 14060 is recent enough that box-and-papers originality is a reasonable expectation.
* [https://newsroom.rolex.com/watches/oyster-collection/submariner Rolex, Submariner history and specifications]


Strong lot-level auction evidence for the 14060 is thin in the current source set. Hammer-price data needs dedicated research.
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/rolex-submariner-history-part-3-the-modern-references/ History of the Rolex Submariner — Part 3, The Modern References] — Tom Mulraney (Monochrome)
 
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/articles/how-to-start-collecting-the-rolex-submariner The Rolex Submariner: A Complete Collector's Guide] — Stephen Pulvirent (Sotheby's)
== Sources ==
* [https://journal.craftandtailored.com/the-rolex-submariner-ref-14060/ The Rolex Submariner Ref. 14060] (Craft and Tailored journal)
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/rolex-submariner-history-part-2-the-55xx-1680references/ History of the Rolex Submariner - Part 2, The 55XX References and 1680 Date] — Tom Mulraney, Monochrome
* [https://www.fratellowatches.com/rolex-14060-submariner-52mondayz-week-17/ 52Mondayz: Rolex 14060 Submariner] (Fratello)
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/articles/how-to-start-collecting-the-rolex-submariner The Rolex Submariner: A Complete Collector's Guide] — Stephen Pulvirent, Sotheby's
* [https://www.fratellowatches.com/hands-on-rolex-submariner-14060m/ Hands-On: Submariner 14060M] (Fratello)
* [https://millenarywatches.com/rolex-submariner-14060/ Rolex Submariner 14060 Guide] — unknown, Millenary Watches
* [https://www.bobswatches.com/rolex-blog/rolex-info/last-best-rolex-submariner-ref-14060.html Rolex 14060 Review: Why This Vintage Submariner Still Shines]
* [https://www.bobswatches.com/rolex-submariner-14060.html Rolex Submariner 14060 Listing] — unknown, Bob's Watches
* [https://swisswatchtrader.co.uk/blogs/news/the-rolex-submariner-14060-no-date-the-complete-history The Rolex Submariner 14060 No Date: Complete History] (Swiss Watch Trader)
* [https://professionalwatches.com/rolex-submariner-reference-guide/ Rolex Submariner Reference Guide] — unknown, Professional Watches
* [https://www.luxurybazaar.com/grey-market/rolex-submariner-14060-14060m/ Rolex Submariner 14060 and 14060M Collector's Guide] (Luxury Bazaar)
* [https://www.fratellowatches.com/rolex-submariner-14060m/ Rolex Submariner 14060M Review] — unknown, Fratello Watches
* [https://watchbase.com/rolex/submariner/14060 Rolex Submariner 14060 reference page] (Watchbase)
* The Vintage Rolex Field Manual, Chevalier Edition — Morning Tundra, unknown
* [https://millenarywatches.com/14060-submariner/ Rolex Submariner 14060 Complete Guide] (Millenary Watches)
* [https://millenarywatches.com/rolex-bracelet-reference-numbers/ Rolex Bracelet Reference Numbers Guide] (Millenary Watches)
* [https://www.sothebys.com/buy/bcd4c4c3-6871-4eed-ba6a-6e21f1011bc6/lots/7f5bc074-9265-4be3-b231-5c9a213ae3fe Submariner Reference 14060 c.1995 — Sotheby's immediate sale] (Sotheby's)
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2019/class-of-2019/rolex-submariner-ref-14060-a-stainless-steel Rolex Submariner Ref. 14060 c.1997 — Sotheby's Class of 2019] (Sotheby's, 2019)
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2020/watches-3/rolex-reference-14060-submariner-a-stainless-steel?gQT=2 Reference 14060 Submariner c.2001 — Sotheby's Watches 3] (Sotheby's, 2020)
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-14060-submariner-lot-372-124 Rolex Ref. 14060 Submariner — Antiquorum Geneva lot 372/124] (Antiquorum, 2024)
* [https://www.lot-art.com/auction-lots/Rolex-Submariner-No-Date-Swiss-Only-Dial-14060-Men-1990-1999/29802923-rolex_submariner-06.10.19-catawiki Rolex Submariner No Date "Swiss Only" Dial 14060 — Lot-Art / Catawiki] (Lot-Art, 2019)
* [https://www.craftandtailored.com/products/1998-rolex-submariner-ref-14060 1998 Rolex Submariner Ref. 14060 unpolished] (Craft and Tailored)
* [https://www.craftandtailored.com/products/unpolished-2000-rolex-submariner-ref-14060-p-serial-w-box-papers 2000 Rolex Submariner Ref. 14060 P-Serial unpolished] (Craft and Tailored)
* [https://bulangandsons.com/products/rolex-submariner-14060-two-line-tritium-dial-w1909 Rolex Submariner 14060 Two-Line Tritium Dial]
* [https://www.orologium.com/archive/rolex-submariner-14060-no-date-2-liner-tritium-dial-u-serial-1997 Rolex Submariner 14060 No-Date Two-Line Tritium U-Serial 1997] (Orologium)
* [https://watchcharts.com/listing/416988-rolex-93150-593-bracelet-oyster-5513-1680-14060-16800-16610 Rolex 93150 / 593 bracelet — fits 5513, 1680, 14060, 16800, 16610]
* [https://www.chrono-shop.net/en/bands-bracelets/10041-rolex-submariner-vintage-593-endpiece-endlink-93150-bracelet-solid-links-20mm-16800-168000-16610-14060-14060m-watches.html 593 endpiece / endlink reference for 93150 bracelet] (Chrono-Shop)
* ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' — Colin A. White, Morning Tundra


[[Category:Submariner]]
[[Category:Submariner]]
[[Category:Working Draft]]

Latest revision as of 02:48, 29 September 2026


Submariner › 14060

Rolex 14060 Submariner
Rolex 14060 Submariner

The 14060 is the first sapphire-era no-date Submariner in the cited lineage, bridging the long-running 5513 (acrylic, 200m, no date) and the modern ceramic line. Specialist references place its production from 1989 to 1999, although some auction catalogues date individual examples to around 2001. Caliber 3000 carries 27 jewels and 28,800 vph with hacking seconds; there is no quickset because this reference has no date.

The depth rating rises from the 5513's 200m to 300m, with a Triplock crown replacing the earlier Twinlock arrangement. The 14060 keeps the two-line dial and all-black bezel used on this no-date generation. What moves across the production window is the lume — tritium, then Luminova, then Super-LumiNova. The 14060M replaces the reference in 1999 with the chronometer-rated caliber 3130.

Core facts

detail value
reference 14060
family Submariner (no date)
production 1989–1999 working span; some catalogues date individual examples later
case 40mm Oyster with crown guards, sapphire crystal, Triplock crown — first sapphire-era no-date Sub
water resistance 300m / 1000ft (up from the 5513's 200m / 660ft)
movement caliber 3000, 27 jewels, 28,800 vph, ~48-hour reserve, hacking seconds. No quickset (no date complication on this reference). Non-chronometer
dial two-line throughout the run — "Submariner" + "300m=1000ft." Four-line OCC / SCOC text never appears on the 14060; that arrives only on the 14060M after 2007
bezel 24-hour bidirectional — all-black aluminium insert only
lume tritium "T<25" through approximately 1997/98; a narrow "Swiss only" transition; later "Swiss Made" Luminova dials
bracelet 93150 with 593 hollow end-links on cited early examples; 78360 and 501B service-end-link fitments also documented
successor 14060M (1999 onward, COSC-rated caliber 3130, M-suffix indicates chronometer)

No-date lineage and historical position

The 14060 closes the acrylic-crystal era of the no-date Submariner and opens the sapphire era. The 5513 (1962–1989, acrylic, 200m, caliber 1530 early on, 1520 for the long run) is the long predecessor; the 14060 carries the no-date position into the modern Sub case with a sapphire crystal, a Triplock crown and the 300m rating. It is the first no-date Submariner in the cited lineage documented with both sapphire crystal and a Triplock crown.

It is also the last no-date Submariner to ship without chronometer certification. The two-line dial reads "Submariner / 300m=1000ft" with none of the "Officially Certified Chronometer" wording the 14060M's caliber 3130 would go on to earn. The 14060 is the sapphire-era, non-chronometer no-date reference in this sequence.

Production outline

Production ran from 1989, replacing the 5513, through 1999, when the 14060M took over. Specialist coverage occasionally gives 1990, but 1989 is the dominant editorial reading and it matches the catalogue transition.

Tritium period (1989 to approximately 1997 / 1998)

"SWISS – T<25" at the bottom of the dial, tritium in the plots. The lume ages cream, then warm beige, then mustard depending on how much UV the watch has seen. Late-tritium U-serial examples from 1997 are represented in the cited auction and dealer records.

"Swiss only" transitional dial (approximately 1998)

A narrow window produced dials marked only "SWISS" at the bottom, with no T<25 and no SWISS MADE. The cited examples treat these as factory output from the lume changeover; their production share and service history are not established.

Luminova period (approximately 1998 to 1999)

"SWISS MADE" at the bottom, Luminova in place of tritium. The run continues into the 1999 transition to the 14060M and caliber 3130. Late P-serial Luminova examples are documented near the production tail; a serial or warranty date should not by itself be treated as an exact factory boundary.

Movement notes

Caliber 3000 carries 27 jewels, 28,800 vph, an approximately 48-hour reserve, and hacking seconds, and it is non-chronometer. It is the time-only sister to the 3035 and 3135 that run the date Submariners, and without a date complication there is no quickset. The architecture carries forward into the 14060M's caliber 3130 with chronometer regulation added and the no-date logic preserved.

The 14060 is a non-COSC reference. The "M" in 14060M is commonly expanded as "Modified" and marks the later caliber 3130 generation, which also received chronometer certification. The 14060 dial reads "Submariner / 300m=1000ft." The 14060M would later add the two "Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified" lines.

Dial map

Two-line standard layout throughout. The four-line dial — the two extra chronometer lines collectors abbreviate to OCC or SCOC — never appears on the 14060; that wording arrives only on the 14060M after 2007.

Early dials, 1989 to approximately 1997/98, carry "SWISS – T<25" tritium text and lume that ages to a cream-to-warm-beige patina. The narrow "Swiss only" run around 1998 shows just "SWISS" at the bottom. The cited examples treat this as factory output from the lume changeover; its frequency is not established. Later dials, around 1998–1999, switch to "SWISS MADE" and Luminova. The available sources do not establish the relative share of each late-run dial.

The dial wording stays "Submariner / 300m=1000ft" throughout. Applied indices with white-gold surrounds sit on a glossy black lacquer ground. Mercedes hour and minute hands pair with a lollipop seconds hand carrying a small luminous tip. A small subset of late-tritium and Luminova examples develop spider cracks in the glossy lacquer, a known formulation problem on the period dials.

Case, bezel, crystal, and crown

The case is the standard 40mm Submariner Oyster with crown guards in 904L stainless steel. The sapphire crystal sits flat over the dial without a Cyclops magnifier; the date Submariner references carry one, and the no-date 14060 has no date window to magnify.

The Triplock screw-down crown is the structural upgrade from the 5513's older Twinlock — three sealing points instead of two, which is what supports the 300m rating. The bezel is a 24-hour bidirectional aluminium insert in all-black only. The cited 14060 examples use an all-black aluminium insert; no coloured 14060 insert is documented in the reviewed sources.

  • Case flank with the reference number stamped between the lugs
    Case flank with the reference number stamped between the lugs
  • Plain, unengraved caseback
    Plain, unengraved caseback

Bracelets, end links, clasps, and packaging notes

Cited early-to-mid production examples use the Oyster 93150 with 593 hollow end-links, the same cross-family bracelet code used on the 5513, 1680, 16800 and early 16610. Later examples are shown with the Oyster 78360, a heavier bracelet with the same overall geometry as the 93150. SEL service end-links 501B replace the older 593 hollow end-links on service-era refits, so bracelet originality needs case-and-clasp-date verification rather than the end-link stamp alone.

The clasp-date code is the cleanest single bracelet-originality test. Folding Oyster clasps with stamped year codes appear on most documented examples, and a clasp dating later than the case head implies a swap or a service-era replacement.

Historical market and auction record

Sale Lot Year of watch Configuration
Sotheby's not stated c.1995 cal 3000 27j, folding Oyster clasp
Sotheby's "Class of 2019" not stated c.1997 two-line tritium, sold 2019
Sotheby's Watches 3 not stated c.2001 late-run example
Antiquorum Geneva 372/124 2024 two-line full set with box and warranty
Phillips not stated 2022 two-line tritium
Lot-Art / Catawiki — 2021 c.1994 mid-run example
Lot-Art / Catawiki — 1990–1999 "Swiss only" transitional dial — rare lume-window example

The reviewed auction and dealer records show that condition, dial originality, accessories, and bracelet history affect asking prices. Dealer prices change over time and are not used here as a reference-wide band. A full set or matching clasp may help document a particular watch, but does not establish factory originality on its own.

Related references

See also the Submariner family index, movement reference, bracelet & clasp guide, and serial numbers by year.

  • Rolex Submariner 14060, sapphire-era two-line dial
    Rolex Submariner 14060, sapphire-era two-line dial
  • 14060 case flank and reference stamp
    14060 case flank and reference stamp
  • 14060 plain caseback
    14060 plain caseback
  • 78360 clasp interior documented on a 14060 bracelet
    78360 clasp interior documented on a 14060 bracelet

Sources

Retrieved from "https://rolexopedia.net/index.php?title=Reference:14060&oldid=11152"