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{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex 3133 Oyster Perpetual Bubbleback}}
{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex 3133 Bubbleback}}
 
{{#seo:
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex 3133 Bubbleback — Pink Gold and Steel, 1938–1940s | Rolexopedia
|title=Rolex Bubbleback 3133 — Steel and Two-Tone, 18 Auction Lots | Rolexopedia
|description=The Rolex 3133 is a 32mm Oyster Perpetual Bubbleback documented across three Antiquorum auction lots and a forum-dated 1938 example — pink gold and steel cases, caliber 9¾, both small-seconds and center-seconds dial layouts, and a 3.5x price swing between original and refinished dials.
|description=The 3133 is a steel and steel-and-pink-gold Bubbleback documented in auction records with mixed seconds layouts, disputed movement descriptions, and a directly named Cal. 630 example.
|keywords=Rolex, 3133, Bubbleback, Oyster Perpetual, vintage Rolex, chronometer
|image=Ref 3133 hero.webp
|image=Ref 3133 hero.webp
|image_alt=Rolex 3133 Bubbleback, pink gold and steel case
|type=article
|type=Article
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<small>[[Reference:oyster-perpetual|Oyster Perpetual]] -&gt; '''3133'''</small>
<small>[[Reference:bubbleback|Bubbleback]] › '''3133'''</small>
 
The 3133 is a 32mm Oyster Perpetual Bubbleback, documented across three separate Antiquorum auction lots plus a forum owner who dates his example to 1938 — a year earlier than any of the catalogued examples. All three auctioned watches pair pink gold with stainless steel, but in three different splits: solid pink gold body with a steel bezel band on one, a steel case with a pink gold bezel on another, and a mixed steel-and-pink-gold construction on the third. None of the three carries the same case number, and no two share a sale.
 
The reference is a small case study in what originality does to a Bubbleback's value — see the Auction record below.


<span id="core-facts"></span>
<div class="rp-lead">
[[File:Ref 3133 hero.webp|thumb|center|640px|alt=Rolex Oyster Perpetual Bubbleback 3133 in stainless steel with a tropical orange dial on a black leather strap|Rolex Oyster Perpetual "Bubbleback" 3133, stainless steel, tropical dial, Antiquorum Hong Kong, September 2022.]]
</div>


[[File:Ref 3133 hero.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=Rolex 3133 Bubbleback, pink gold and steel case|Rolex 3133 Bubbleback, pink gold and steel case]]
The published 3133 record is made up mainly of stainless-steel and steel-and-pink-gold auction examples, with one steel-and-yellow-gold lot in the cited sample. The sources do not establish a complete material range or production total. Seconds layout is also inconsistent across the catalogues: most descriptions use centre or sweep seconds, while an “SAB”-signed lot is described with subsidiary seconds at six. One Antiquorum catalogue names caliber 630, but gives a ligne size that conflicts with the 9¾-ligne descriptions in other lots. These are catalogue observations, not a settled specification for every 3133.


== Core facts ==
==Core facts==


{| class="wikitable"
{| class="wikitable rp-facts"
|-
|-
! detail
! detail
Line 32: Line 27:
|-
|-
| family
| family
| Oyster Perpetual (Bubbleback)
| Oyster Perpetual "Bubbleback"
|-
|-
| common name
| production
| "Bubbleback"
| no confirmed factory range; documented examples run circa 1938 to circa 1947
|-
|-
| production
| case diameter
| documented examples span 1938 (forum-dated) to circa 1947 (Antiquorum-dated); no confirmed start/end year for the reference as a whole
| 32mm on most lots; one lot near 33mm; one Christie's lot gives 22mm, likely a cataloguing error
|-
| case shape
| tonneau, Oyster-cased, screw-down crown and back
|-
|-
| case
| case materials
| 32mm, pink gold and stainless steel in varying splits — documented as solid pink gold with steel bezel, steel case with pink gold bezel, and mixed steel-and-pink-gold
| stainless steel; steel and pink gold (most common); steel and yellow gold; 18K pink gold and steel
|-
|-
| movement
| movement
| self-winding, caliber sized 9¾ lignes (Antiquorum's caliber field on two of the three lots), one lot specifying 19 jewels
| 9 3/4-ligne automatic on most lots, 17 or 19 jewels; one lot names Cal. 630 directly at 11 1/2 lignes
|-
| dial (documented)
| black gilt (original); silvered/unspecified with center seconds (dial reprinted on one example, original on two)
|-
|-
| seconds hand
| seconds
| both configurations documented — small seconds at 6 o'clock on one example, center seconds on another
| centre/sweep on most lots; subsidiary at 6 on at least one ("SAB"-signed dial)
|-
|-
| crown
| dial
| screw-down, Oyster waterproofness; crown tube diameter varies by case-part generation (5.3mm or 4mm), per forum restoration discussion — verify before ordering a replacement part
| silvered (most common); tropical/orange-toned; black lacquer "California" dial; dial signed "SAB"
|-
|-
| documented examples
| documented case numbers
| three Antiquorum lots (case nos. 49184, 488378, and a third unlisted) plus a forum-dated 1938 example (case unspecified)
| 323864; 300995; 49184; 54517; 323804; 488378; 375572; 298'571; 301'123
|}
|}


<span id="where-it-sits-in-the-line"></span>
==Where it sits in the line==
== Where it sits in the line ==
 
“Bubbleback” is a collector term for early Oyster Perpetual references with a domed caseback. The 3133 is listed near the 3130, 3131 and 3132 in specialist reference tables. The cited auction lots are mostly steel or two-tone, while the Field Manual lists /0, /3, /7 and /8 configurations with different material and bezel descriptions. Those tables do not provide a complete production range or prove that every suffix was produced in the same period.
 
==Production outline==
 
No primary source in the cited set states a factory production window. Two Antiquorum Hong Kong listings use the same movement number (90338) and case number (49184) but give different circa dates, and one describes a black lacquer “California” dial that the other does not mention. The matching numbers suggest a re-consignment, but the catalogue record alone cannot prove the watch’s complete history. Use the dated lot descriptions as leads and avoid treating either circa date as a factory range.
 
==Movement notes==
 
Most catalogues describe a 9¾-ligne automatic movement and give either 17 or 19 jewels when they give a count. Antiquorum’s May 2022 “Certified Chronometer” lot names caliber 630 and describes an 11½-ligne movement timed in six positions. That size conflicts with the 9¾-ligne descriptions in other lots. The same catalogue split appears in the seconds layout: most lots say centre or sweep seconds, while the “SAB” lot says subsidiary seconds at six. The movement should be inspected rather than assigned from the reference number alone.
 
[[File:Ref 3133 dial-variant-chronometer.webp|thumb|right|280px|alt=Rolex Bubbleback 3133 steel and pink gold Certified Chronometer naming Caliber 630|Steel and pink gold “Certified Chronometer” example, Antiquorum Hong Kong, May 2022.]]


"Bubbleback" is a collector nickname, never an official Rolex designation, for the family of Oyster Perpetual references built from 1933 through the mid-1950s around the domed caseback needed to clear the early automatic winding rotor. Rolex moved from the original three-piece Bubbleback case to a simpler two-piece design in 1936 with references 3131 and 3132; the 3133 sits in that same numeric cluster and shares its 32mm case diameter and general construction with both.


Where the 3133 stands out from a bare reference list is in how much genuine variety three small auction lots already show. Rolex offered the same reference in at least three different pink-gold-to-steel ratios, with both small-seconds and center-seconds dial layouts documented on watches sharing the same reference number — evidence that "reference 3133" described a case and movement platform Rolex dressed multiple ways, not a single fixed configuration, consistent with Anthony Traina's framing of the Bubbleback family for Hodinkee as "nearly impossible to catalog comprehensively" even for specialists who have tried.


<span id="production-outline"></span>
==Dial map==
== Production outline ==


The earliest documented date comes from a forum member restoring his own 3133, who dates the watch to 1938 based on his case research — a year earlier than any of the three Antiquorum lots, which are dated "circa 1940s" and, on the most precisely dated example, "circa 1947." Taken together, the four documented examples place the 3133 across roughly a decade of production, from the late 1930s into the postwar years, consistent with the reference sitting inside Rolex's broader two-piece-case Bubbleback generation that ran from 1936 onward.
Silvered dials dominate the cited lots. Antiquorum also records a tropical orange-toned dial, a black lacquer “California” dial, an “SAB”-signed dial described with subsidiary seconds, and a watch catalogued as “Oyster Perpetual Ovetto.” “Ovetto” is a collector term used for Bubblebacks generally, not a Rolex model name.


No two of the three auctioned examples share a case number (49184, 488378, and a third the cataloguer left unlisted), and no source located here gives a total production count or a firm end date specific to the 3133.
The Geneva 2025 lot with case 488378 is marked “Reprinted” and its hands’ luminous material is described as reapplied. That is lot-specific evidence about dial and hand condition; it does not establish a general rule for 3133 dials. The California and SAB descriptions also remain tied to their individual catalogues, especially because the two listings for case 49184 disagree on date and dial wording.


<span id="movement-notes"></span>
<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
== Movement notes ==
File:Ref 3133 dial-variant-california.webp|California dial example, Antiquorum Hong Kong, May 2025
File:Ref 3133 dial-variant-sab.webp|SAB-signed dial described with subsidiary seconds
File:Ref 3133 dial-variant-ovetto.webp|Lot catalogued as Oyster Perpetual Ovetto
</gallery>


Two of the three Antiquorum lots list the movement as caliber sized "9¾" lignes — a movement-diameter class Rolex used across several different Bubbleback-era automatic calibers rather than a single specific caliber number, so "9¾ ligne" identifies the size of movement fitted, not a unique caliber identity shared with every other 9¾-ligne Bubbleback. One lot specifies 19 jewels. All three documented examples are self-winding with the era's water-resistant Oyster construction: screw-down crown and caseback.


A forum thread on restoring a 1938-dated 3133 flags a practical point for anyone servicing one of these: crown tube diameter varies across Bubbleback case-part generations, either 5.3mm or 4mm depending on the specific case variant, along with differing thread pitch — a detail worth checking case-by-case rather than assuming parts interchange across the wider Bubbleback range.


<span id="dial-map"></span>
==Case, bezel, crystal, and crown==
== Dial map ==


Documented configurations split on seconds-hand layout as much as on color. One example carries a black gilt dial with small seconds at 6 o'clock. A second carries an unspecified dial with center seconds — a functional layout, not just a cosmetic variant, since it changes what the subsidiary dial train looks like on the movement side. A third example, mechanically identical to the others, carries a dial the Antiquorum condition report explicitly notes as "reprinted," with hands whose luminous material has been reapplied — a service refinish rather than an original surface, and the reason that example sold for a fraction of the other two.
The cited lots use a tonneau-shaped Oyster case with a screw-down crown and caseback. Most give a diameter near 32mm; the “Ovetto” lot gives approximately 33mm. A 2003 Christie’s listing says 22mm, which conflicts with the other entries and should be treated as an unconfirmed catalogue measurement rather than a separate 3133 size.


<span id="case-bezel-crystal-and-crown-notes"></span>
==Bracelet and strap==
== Case, bezel, crystal, and crown ==


32mm across all three documented examples. The pink-gold-to-steel construction varies: one lot describes the case itself as "18K pink gold and stainless steel," a second specifies a pink gold bezel on a stainless steel case, and a third describes the case generally as "steel and pink gold" without further detail — three watches, three ways of splitting the same two metals across the same case architecture. Screw-down crown and caseback throughout, consistent with the Oyster line's water-resistant construction.
The 2025 Geneva lot with case 300995 is fitted to a riveted Gay Frères bracelet stamped “SYL.” The stamp is on the bracelet, so it does not establish the watch head’s original retailer. A 2025 Bonhams listing describes another 3133 as retailed by Bucherer with a signed 14K-gold folding clasp. Bracelet date and fitment should be recorded separately from case provenance.


<span id="auction-record"></span>
==Auction record==
== Auction record ==


{| class="wikitable"
{| class="wikitable"
|-
|-
! Sale !! Lot !! Case no. !! Configuration !! Estimate !! Result
! Venue
! Date
! Lot
! Case No.
! Material / dial
! Result
|-
| Christie's
| 2003-06-05
| 233
| not given
| Steel and pink gold, sweep centre seconds, brick-link bracelet
| Sold USD 3,346 (est. USD 2,800-3,200)
|-
| Antiquorum, Geneva
| 2014-11-08
| 824
| not given
| Stainless steel
| Sold CHF 1,625 (est. CHF 1,000-2,000)
|-
| Antiquorum, Geneva
| 2016-05-15
| 116
| not given
| Steel and yellow gold, centre seconds
| Sold CHF 813 (est. CHF 2,000-4,000)
|-
| Antiquorum, Hong Kong
| 2022-05-28
| 144
| unnumbered
| Steel and pink gold, "Certified Chronometer," Cal. 630 named
| Sold HKD 40,000 (est. HKD 31,700-47,500)
|-
| Antiquorum, Hong Kong
| 2022-09-28
| 234
| not given
| Stainless steel, tropical dial, sold without reserve
| Sold HKD 12,500 (est. HKD 16,400-32,800)
|-
| Sotheby's, Fine Watches
| 2022-12-14
| 384
| 298'571
| 18k pink gold and stainless steel, silvered dial
| Est. USD 3,000-5,000; result not disclosed
|-
| Sotheby's, Fine Watches
| 2022-12-14
| 385
| 301'123
| Stainless steel and 14k pink gold, silvered dial
| Est. USD 3,000-6,000; result not disclosed
|-
| Antiquorum, Geneva
| 2019-11-10
| 460
| 54517
| Steel and pink gold, riveted bracelet
| Sold CHF 5,250 (est. CHF 5,000-8,000)
|-
| Antiquorum, Geneva
| 2025-04-03
| 118
| 323804
| Catalogued "Oyster Perpetual Ovetto," steel and pink gold
| Sold CHF 1,260 (est. CHF 1,000-2,000)
|-
| Antiquorum, Geneva
| 2025-05-10
| 160
| 488378
| Steel; dial reprinted, hands relumed
| Sold CHF 1,625 (est. CHF 1,000-2,000)
|-
|-
| Antiquorum, Hong Kong, 31 May 2026 || 46 || 49184 || 18K pink gold and stainless steel, black gilt dial, original, circa 1947 || HKD 30,000–60,000 || HKD 50,000 (≈ USD 6,400)
| Antiquorum, Geneva
| 2025-05-10
| 161
| 300995
| Steel and pink gold, bracelet stamped "SYL"
| Sold CHF 11,875 (est. CHF 3,000-5,000)
|-
|-
| Antiquorum, Hong Kong, 2025 || 301 || not listed || Steel and pink gold, small seconds at 6, original dial, circa 1940s || HKD 28,000–50,000 || HKD 37,500 (≈ USD 4,800)
| Antiquorum, Hong Kong
| 2025-05-31
| 301
| not given
| Steel and pink gold, "SAB"-signed dial, subsidiary seconds
| Sold HKD 37,500 (est. HKD 28,000-50,000)
|-
|-
| Antiquorum, Geneva, 10–11 May 2025 || 160 || 488378 || Pink gold bezel, stainless steel case, center seconds, dial reprinted and hands relumed, circa 1940s || CHF 1,000–2,000 || CHF 1,625 (≈ USD 1,850)
| Antiquorum, Hong Kong
| 2025-05-31
| 302
| 49184
| Steel and pink gold, black lacquer "California" dial
| Sold HKD 47,500 (est. HKD 30,000-60,000)
|-
| Antiquorum, Hong Kong
| 2025-11-30
| 66
| 323864
| 18K pink gold and steel
| Sold HKD 55,000 (est. HKD 35,000-60,000)
|-
| Christie's, Watches Online New York Edit
| —
| 267
| not given
| Stainless steel and pink gold
| Sold USD 8,255 (est. USD 4,000-6,000)
|-
| Antiquorum, Hong Kong
| 2026-05-31
| 46
| 49184
| 18K pink gold and steel, black gilt dial
| Sold HKD 50,000 (est. HKD 30,000-60,000)
|}
|}


The three results track condition and originality closely: the two original-dial examples sold for USD 4,800–6,400, while the mechanically identical example with a reprinted dial and relumed hands sold for roughly a third of that. Same reference, same era, same case-metal split — the gap is entirely about whether the dial in front of a buyer is the one Rolex applied.
The table records auction results and estimates from several houses and currencies. The reprinted-dial lot and the better-preserved examples show that condition can affect a result, but the sample is too heterogeneous to establish a reference-wide price range. The California and “SYL” bracelet lots remain individual auction records; their results do not prove a universal premium for those configurations.
 
==Related references==


== Related references ==
* [[Reference:3130|3130]] (related reference; material and retailer evidence are lot-specific)
* [[Reference:3131|3131]] (related Bubbleback reference with subsidiary-seconds examples)
* [[Reference:3132|3132]] (related reference with centre-seconds examples)


* [[Reference:3131|Bubbleback 3131]] — same two-piece case generation, introduced 1936
See also the [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|bracelet & clasp guide]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial numbers by year]].
* [[Reference:3132|Bubbleback 3132]] — same two-piece case generation, introduced 1936
* [[Reference:3696|Bubbleback 3696]] — same era, mixed pink gold and steel construction
* [[Reference:1858|Bubbleback 1858]] — first Bubbleback reference, 1933, three-piece case


See also the [[Reference:oyster-perpetual|Oyster Perpetual family index]], [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|bracelet & clasp guide]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial numbers by year]].
<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
File:Ref 3133 hero.webp|3133 stainless-steel example
File:Ref 3133 dial-variant-chronometer.webp|3133 catalogue example naming caliber 630
File:Ref 3133 dial-variant-california.webp|3133 California dial example
File:Ref 3133 dial-variant-sab.webp|3133 SAB-signed dial example
File:Ref 3133 dial-variant-ovetto.webp|3133 Ovetto catalogue example
</gallery>


== Sources ==
== Sources ==


* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-3133-bubbleback-lot-387-46 "Rolex, Ref. 3133, Bubbleback, 18K Pink Gold and Stainless Steel", lot 46, Hong Kong, Antiquorum, 2026]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-3133-bubble-back-lot-354-234 "Rolex ref. 3133 Bubble Back, Oyster Perpetual, Chronometre, steel", Antiquorum Hong Kong, 2022-09-28]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-3133-oyster-perpetual-bubbleback-lot-377-160 "Rolex, Switzerland, Ref. 3133, Oyster Perpetual 'Bubbleback', Pink Gold Bezel, Stainless Steel", lot 160, Geneva, Antiquorum, 2025]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-3133-bubble-back-lot-382-66 "Rolex, ref. 3133, Bubble Back, 18K pink gold and steel", Antiquorum Hong Kong, 2025-11-30]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-3133-bubbleback-lot-378-301 "Rolex, Ref. 3133, Bubbleback, Steel and Pink Gold", lot 301, Hong Kong, Antiquorum, 2025]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-3133-bubbleback-lot-377-161 "Rolex, Switzerland, ref. 3133", Antiquorum Geneva, 2025-05-10]
* [https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/vintagerolexforum/rolex-3133-restoration-t279809.html "Rolex 3133 Restoration", Vintage Rolex Forum]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-3133-bubbleback-lot-378-301 "Rolex, ref. 3133, Bubbleback, 'SAB', steel and pink gold", Antiquorum Hong Kong, 2025-05-31]
* [https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-rolex-bubbleback-and-why-it-still-matters Anthony Traina, "The Rolex Bubbleback And Why It Still Matters", Hodinkee, 2024]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-3133-bubbleback-lot-378-302 "Rolex, ref. 3133, Bubbleback, 'California' dial, steel and pink gold", Antiquorum Hong Kong, 2025-05-31]
* [https://robbreport.com/style/watch-collector/lists/rolex-bubbleback-watches-collector-guide-1931-1950s-1235893131/ Oren Hartov, "Rolex Bubbleback Watches: A Collector's Guide, From 1931 to the 1950s", Robb Report, 2024]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-3133-bubbleback-lot-387-46 "Rolex, ref. 3133, Bubbleback, 18K pink gold and stainless steel", Antiquorum Hong Kong, 2026-05-31]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-3133-lot-286-824 "Rolex, ref. 3133 - steel Bubble Back", Antiquorum Geneva, 2014-11-08]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-3133-lot-299-116 "Rolex ref. 3133, Bubbleback, stainless steel and yellow gold", Antiquorum Geneva, 2016-05-15]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-3133-oyster-perpetual-bubbleback-lot-377-160 "Rolex, Switzerland, ref. 3133, Oyster Perpetual", Antiquorum Geneva, 2025-05-10]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-3133-oyster-perpetual-certified-chronometer-so-called-bubble-back-lot-351-144 "Rolex ref. 3133, self-winding, centre-seconds, 'Bubble Back'", Antiquorum Hong Kong, 2022-05-28]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-3133-oyster-perpetual-chronometre-lot-324-460 "Rolex, ref. 3133, Bubbleback, steel and pink gold", Antiquorum Geneva, 2019-11-10]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-3133-oyster-perpetual-ovetto-lot-376-118 "Rolex, Switzerland, ref. 3133, Oyster Perpetual Ovetto", Antiquorum Geneva, 2025-04-03]
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-4105959 "Rolex. A stainless steel and pink gold self-winding water-resistant bubble back wristwatch with sweep center seconds, ref. 3133, circa 1944", Christie's, 2003-06-05]
* [https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/watches-online-new-york-edit/rolex-stainless-steel-pink-gold-bubbleback-wristwatch-ref-3133-267/285352 "Rolex, stainless steel and pink gold 'Bubbleback' wristwatch, ref. 3133", Christie's Watches Online New York Edit]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/buy/f21c9103-5ee5-4c0f-a970-2354f1599072/lots/fa53c331-1ec3-4ae6-a73d-26731061e638 "Rolex, reference 3133 Bubbleback", Sotheby's Fine Watches, 2022-12-14]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/buy/f21c9103-5ee5-4c0f-a970-2354f1599072/lots/41cec0c0-9323-4970-ac0e-7f98b8cdade2 "Rolex, reference 3133 Oyster Perpetual Bubbleback", Sotheby's Fine Watches, 2022-12-14]
* "Rolex. A stainless steel automatic centre seconds bracelet watch, ref. 3133", Bonhams
* "Rolex. A stainless steel and gold automatic bubbleback bracelet watch retailed by Bucherer, ref. 3133", Bonhams, 2025-05-07
* Colin A. White, ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'', Morning Tundra
* [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rolex Wikipedia, "Rolex" — general Oyster history]


[[Category:Oyster Perpetual]]
[[Category:Bubbleback]]

Latest revision as of 03:13, 29 September 2026


Bubbleback › 3133

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Bubbleback 3133 in stainless steel with a tropical orange dial on a black leather strap
Rolex Oyster Perpetual "Bubbleback" 3133, stainless steel, tropical dial, Antiquorum Hong Kong, September 2022.

The published 3133 record is made up mainly of stainless-steel and steel-and-pink-gold auction examples, with one steel-and-yellow-gold lot in the cited sample. The sources do not establish a complete material range or production total. Seconds layout is also inconsistent across the catalogues: most descriptions use centre or sweep seconds, while an “SAB”-signed lot is described with subsidiary seconds at six. One Antiquorum catalogue names caliber 630, but gives a ligne size that conflicts with the 9¾-ligne descriptions in other lots. These are catalogue observations, not a settled specification for every 3133.

Core facts

detail value
reference 3133
family Oyster Perpetual "Bubbleback"
production no confirmed factory range; documented examples run circa 1938 to circa 1947
case diameter 32mm on most lots; one lot near 33mm; one Christie's lot gives 22mm, likely a cataloguing error
case shape tonneau, Oyster-cased, screw-down crown and back
case materials stainless steel; steel and pink gold (most common); steel and yellow gold; 18K pink gold and steel
movement 9 3/4-ligne automatic on most lots, 17 or 19 jewels; one lot names Cal. 630 directly at 11 1/2 lignes
seconds centre/sweep on most lots; subsidiary at 6 on at least one ("SAB"-signed dial)
dial silvered (most common); tropical/orange-toned; black lacquer "California" dial; dial signed "SAB"
documented case numbers 323864; 300995; 49184; 54517; 323804; 488378; 375572; 298'571; 301'123

Where it sits in the line

“Bubbleback” is a collector term for early Oyster Perpetual references with a domed caseback. The 3133 is listed near the 3130, 3131 and 3132 in specialist reference tables. The cited auction lots are mostly steel or two-tone, while the Field Manual lists /0, /3, /7 and /8 configurations with different material and bezel descriptions. Those tables do not provide a complete production range or prove that every suffix was produced in the same period.

Production outline

No primary source in the cited set states a factory production window. Two Antiquorum Hong Kong listings use the same movement number (90338) and case number (49184) but give different circa dates, and one describes a black lacquer “California” dial that the other does not mention. The matching numbers suggest a re-consignment, but the catalogue record alone cannot prove the watch’s complete history. Use the dated lot descriptions as leads and avoid treating either circa date as a factory range.

Movement notes

Most catalogues describe a 9¾-ligne automatic movement and give either 17 or 19 jewels when they give a count. Antiquorum’s May 2022 “Certified Chronometer” lot names caliber 630 and describes an 11½-ligne movement timed in six positions. That size conflicts with the 9¾-ligne descriptions in other lots. The same catalogue split appears in the seconds layout: most lots say centre or sweep seconds, while the “SAB” lot says subsidiary seconds at six. The movement should be inspected rather than assigned from the reference number alone.

Rolex Bubbleback 3133 steel and pink gold Certified Chronometer naming Caliber 630
Steel and pink gold “Certified Chronometer” example, Antiquorum Hong Kong, May 2022.


Dial map

Silvered dials dominate the cited lots. Antiquorum also records a tropical orange-toned dial, a black lacquer “California” dial, an “SAB”-signed dial described with subsidiary seconds, and a watch catalogued as “Oyster Perpetual Ovetto.” “Ovetto” is a collector term used for Bubblebacks generally, not a Rolex model name.

The Geneva 2025 lot with case 488378 is marked “Reprinted” and its hands’ luminous material is described as reapplied. That is lot-specific evidence about dial and hand condition; it does not establish a general rule for 3133 dials. The California and SAB descriptions also remain tied to their individual catalogues, especially because the two listings for case 49184 disagree on date and dial wording.


Case, bezel, crystal, and crown

The cited lots use a tonneau-shaped Oyster case with a screw-down crown and caseback. Most give a diameter near 32mm; the “Ovetto” lot gives approximately 33mm. A 2003 Christie’s listing says 22mm, which conflicts with the other entries and should be treated as an unconfirmed catalogue measurement rather than a separate 3133 size.

Bracelet and strap

The 2025 Geneva lot with case 300995 is fitted to a riveted Gay Frères bracelet stamped “SYL.” The stamp is on the bracelet, so it does not establish the watch head’s original retailer. A 2025 Bonhams listing describes another 3133 as retailed by Bucherer with a signed 14K-gold folding clasp. Bracelet date and fitment should be recorded separately from case provenance.

Auction record

Venue Date Lot Case No. Material / dial Result
Christie's 2003-06-05 233 not given Steel and pink gold, sweep centre seconds, brick-link bracelet Sold USD 3,346 (est. USD 2,800-3,200)
Antiquorum, Geneva 2014-11-08 824 not given Stainless steel Sold CHF 1,625 (est. CHF 1,000-2,000)
Antiquorum, Geneva 2016-05-15 116 not given Steel and yellow gold, centre seconds Sold CHF 813 (est. CHF 2,000-4,000)
Antiquorum, Hong Kong 2022-05-28 144 unnumbered Steel and pink gold, "Certified Chronometer," Cal. 630 named Sold HKD 40,000 (est. HKD 31,700-47,500)
Antiquorum, Hong Kong 2022-09-28 234 not given Stainless steel, tropical dial, sold without reserve Sold HKD 12,500 (est. HKD 16,400-32,800)
Sotheby's, Fine Watches 2022-12-14 384 298'571 18k pink gold and stainless steel, silvered dial Est. USD 3,000-5,000; result not disclosed
Sotheby's, Fine Watches 2022-12-14 385 301'123 Stainless steel and 14k pink gold, silvered dial Est. USD 3,000-6,000; result not disclosed
Antiquorum, Geneva 2019-11-10 460 54517 Steel and pink gold, riveted bracelet Sold CHF 5,250 (est. CHF 5,000-8,000)
Antiquorum, Geneva 2025-04-03 118 323804 Catalogued "Oyster Perpetual Ovetto," steel and pink gold Sold CHF 1,260 (est. CHF 1,000-2,000)
Antiquorum, Geneva 2025-05-10 160 488378 Steel; dial reprinted, hands relumed Sold CHF 1,625 (est. CHF 1,000-2,000)
Antiquorum, Geneva 2025-05-10 161 300995 Steel and pink gold, bracelet stamped "SYL" Sold CHF 11,875 (est. CHF 3,000-5,000)
Antiquorum, Hong Kong 2025-05-31 301 not given Steel and pink gold, "SAB"-signed dial, subsidiary seconds Sold HKD 37,500 (est. HKD 28,000-50,000)
Antiquorum, Hong Kong 2025-05-31 302 49184 Steel and pink gold, black lacquer "California" dial Sold HKD 47,500 (est. HKD 30,000-60,000)
Antiquorum, Hong Kong 2025-11-30 66 323864 18K pink gold and steel Sold HKD 55,000 (est. HKD 35,000-60,000)
Christie's, Watches Online New York Edit — 267 not given Stainless steel and pink gold Sold USD 8,255 (est. USD 4,000-6,000)
Antiquorum, Hong Kong 2026-05-31 46 49184 18K pink gold and steel, black gilt dial Sold HKD 50,000 (est. HKD 30,000-60,000)

The table records auction results and estimates from several houses and currencies. The reprinted-dial lot and the better-preserved examples show that condition can affect a result, but the sample is too heterogeneous to establish a reference-wide price range. The California and “SYL” bracelet lots remain individual auction records; their results do not prove a universal premium for those configurations.

Related references

  • 3130 (related reference; material and retailer evidence are lot-specific)
  • 3131 (related Bubbleback reference with subsidiary-seconds examples)
  • 3132 (related reference with centre-seconds examples)

See also the movement reference, bracelet & clasp guide, and serial numbers by year.

Sources