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{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex 6205 Submariner}}
{{#seo:
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex 6205 — BezelBase
|title=Rolex Submariner 6205 (1953–1957) — Production & Dial Guide | Rolexopedia
|description=The 6205 is the second small-crown Submariner and the first to carry Mercedes hands. That single change — from the 6204's pencil hands to the…
|description=The 6205 is an early small-crown Submariner from 1954–55, with clean-dial pencil-hand and Submariner-signed Mercedes-hand examples.
|keywords=Rolex, 6205, Submariner, specifications, reference guide
|keywords=Rolex, 6205, Submariner, specifications, reference guide
|type=article
|image=Ref 6205 hero.webp
|image_alt=Rolex Submariner Ref. 6205
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|published_time=2026-04-14T16:13:30Z
|modified_time=2026-08-04T00:13:41Z
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
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}}


<small>[[Reference:submariner|Submariner]] → '''6205'''</small>
<small>[[Reference:submariner|Submariner]] › '''6205'''</small>
[[File:Ref 6205 hero.webp|thumb|right|300px|Rolex Submariner Ref. 6205]]


The 6205 is the second small-crown Submariner and the first to carry Mercedes hands. That single change — from the 6204’s pencil hands to the three-pointed hour hand that becomes the Submariner signature — makes the 6205 the reference where the modern Submariner formula starts to appear.
<div class="rp-lead">
[[File:Ref 6205 hero.webp|thumb|center|640px|alt=Rolex 6205 Submariner|Rolex 6205 Submariner]]
</div>
 
The 6205 is the second small-crown Submariner, produced in 1954–55. Its documented examples include a clean-dial series with pencil hands and a later series with “Submariner” text and Mercedes hands. Sources differ on whether the 6200, the 6205, or both should receive credit for introducing the Mercedes hand; this page records the disagreement rather than treating it as settled.


<span id="core-facts"></span>
== Core facts ==
== Core facts ==


{| class="wikitable"
{| class="wikitable rp-facts"
|-
|-
! detail
! detail
Line 26: Line 35:
|-
|-
| production
| production
| approximately 1953 to 1957 (one source places single-year production in 1954)
| 1954–1955 in the auction and specialist sources; wider estimates extend to 1953–56
|-
| total produced
| approximately 810 in one specialist estimate; not independently confirmed
|-
|-
| case
| case
| 37mm, slightly larger than the 6204
| 37mm
|-
|-
| crown
| crown
| 6mm (increased from 5mm on 6204), displays Rolex symbol with plus sign
| 6mm (Mulraney/Monochrome late-series); 5.3mm; the 6mm and 5.3mm figures coexist in the literature
|-
| crown markings
| Rolex coronet with the "+" Swiss-made sub-mark
|-
|-
| movement
| movement
| caliber A260 (same as 6204)
| caliber A260, 19 jewels (carried over from 6204)
|-
|-
| depth rating
| depth rating
| 100m (not indicated on dial)
| 100m; the original 6205 dials documented here do not show depth-rating text
|-
| hands
| pencil with lollipop seconds (Series 1) → Mercedes with lollipop seconds (Series 2)
|-
|-
| crown guards
| crown guards
Line 45: Line 63:
| crystal
| crystal
| acrylic
| acrylic
|-
| significance
| first Submariner with Mercedes hands
|}
|}


Line 53: Line 68:
== Where it sits in the line ==
== Where it sits in the line ==


The 6205 sits between the first 6204 and the later split between small-crown and big-crown mid-1950s Submariners. It is the direct successor to the 6204 on the small-crown side and the immediate predecessor of the 5508. On the big-crown side, the 6200 and then the 6538 run a parallel path.
The 6205 follows the 6204 on the small-crown branch. Both use a no-crown-guard case and caliber A260. The 6205 adds a clean-dial series and a later Mercedes-hand series; the 5508, 5510, and 6538 followed as the range expanded into separate small- and big-crown forms.


Mercedes hands matter here. The three-pointed hour hand with a circular lume plot at the tip first appears on the 6205 and never leaves the Submariner line. Every Submariner since carries this hand style. Very few 6205 examples exist with pencil hands — holdovers from the 6204 era — making those among the rarest configurations. The seconds hand on the 6205 is significantly larger than the 6204’s.
Published examples fall into an early 21,3xx–21,6xx band and a later 85,9xx–86,0xx band, with one pre-reset 988,xxx example also reported. The 1954 serial reset is one explanation for the gap, but these lots do not form a complete factory register. A specialist estimate of about 810 watches is not corroborated by the auction houses or by Foulkes’s separate 6204 figure, so it remains an estimate.


<span id="production-outline"></span>
<span id="production-outline"></span>
== Production outline ==
== Production outline ==


The 6205 runs from approximately 1953 to 1957, making it a longer-lived reference than the 6204 but still a short-run watch by later Submariner standards. The reference splits into two series.
The 6205 ran for about a year. Auction and specialist sources place production in 1954–55. One specialist chronology extends the window to 1953–56, while broader reference pages give a wider range. Foulkes’s ''Oyster Perpetual Submariner'' places the 6204, 6200, and 6205 around the 1954 Basel launch, with the 6204 first.


<span id="first-series"></span>
Published examples can be grouped into two series. Series 1 (early 1954) carries a clean dial without "Submariner" text, pencil hands, and a lollipop seconds hand inherited from the 6204. Series 2 (still 1954, into 1955) brings "Submariner" back to the dial and introduces Mercedes hands paired with the same lollipop seconds. Monochrome's 2020 Submariner history (referencing Eric Wind) makes the Series 1 / Series 2 framing explicit; Erik Gustafson's 2018 survey and Le Monde Edmond (2014) corroborate that pencil-hand examples exist; the cited sources do not establish a population count. Logan Baker's 2024 Phillips article complicates the Mercedes-hand claim by crediting both the 6200 and the 6205 with the introduction; the sources agree that 6200 and 6205 ran concurrently in 1954 and both adopted Mercedes hands, with the 6205 sometimes treated as first, sometimes joint-first.
=== First series ===
 
The first series carries a clean dial without Submariner text and may retain pencil hands from the 6204 era. These early examples look more like the 6204 than what follows.
 
<span id="second-series"></span>
=== Second series ===
 
The second series adds Submariner text to the dial and introduces Mercedes hands. This is the version that matters most for the line’s development — it locks in the hand style and dial layout that become the Submariner standard.


<span id="movement-notes"></span>
<span id="movement-notes"></span>
== Movement notes ==
== Movement notes ==


The 6205 runs caliber A260, the same bumper automatic found in the 6204. The movement is adequate for the 100m depth rating but is not the higher-specification A296 found in the big-crown 6200. Sotheby’s lot pages provide movement number data, and the caliber assignment is consistent across the known source base.
The documented 6205 movement is caliber A260, the 19-jewel automatic also used in the 6204. One auction catalogue lists a different caliber and jewel count, while other 6205 records, including the 2025 Geneva lot, identify A260. That outlier should be treated as a catalogue discrepancy or an individual service history, not as a standard 6205 variant.
 
A260 belongs to the early automatic family shared by the 6204 and 6205. Later service work can introduce another caliber, so a movement number that does not match the case and period requires inspection rather than an automatic reference reassignment.


<span id="dial-map"></span>
<span id="dial-map"></span>
== Dial map ==
== Dial map ==


RolexHaven documents two 6205 dial variants:
The documented 6205 dials in this research set are glossy black gilt, with gold-toned printing on a black lacquer ground. The original examples reviewed here do not show depth-rating text. Honeycomb texture is mentioned in general early-Submariner discussions, but no 6205 example in the source set establishes it as a standard variant.


* '''Blank Dial (ca. 1954):''' Gilt dial with the model name intentionally omitted. Otherwise identical construction — brass stencil beneath paint. Case serial 21,354 places it in the post-reset batch.
<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
File:Ref 6205 gilt-dial-detail.webp|alt=Gilt dial with applied markers|Gilt dial with applied markers
File:Ref 6205 dial-detail.webp|alt=6205 dial and bezel close-up|6205 dial and bezel close-up
</gallery>


* '''Submariner dial (ca. 1954):''' "Submariner" printed on dial. Same gilt construction with thin lacquer coating that ages to a matte texture over decades. Case serial 21,6xx.
<span id="clean-no-submariner-dial-series-1"></span>
=== Clean dial (Series 1, no Submariner text) ===


Both use the same A260 movement, pencil hands, and lollipop seconds as the 6204, but the 6205 has a larger 6mm crown.
The earliest 6205s carry a gilt dial without the "Submariner" wording. Antiquorum's Geneva 2025 lot 377-180 carries a no-Submariner-text reprinted dial in case 21,644 and sold for CHF 16,250. Phillips Game Changers 2019 lot 54 (case 21,354) is a documented original-condition Series 1 example: pencil hands paired with lollipop seconds, no "Submariner" text on the dial. Monochrome's 2020 Submariner history attributes the removal of the wording to "reasons unknown"; collector speculation has pointed at trademark timing, with no primary-source confirmation.


<span id="clean-dial-first-series"></span>
<span id="signed-dial-mercedes-hands-series-2"></span>
=== Clean dial (first series) ===
=== Submariner-signed dial with Mercedes hands (Series 2) ===


Early 6205 dials lack Submariner text and carry the simpler layout inherited from the 6204. These are transitional, and relatively few examples survive.
The Series 2 dial puts "Submariner" back above the centre post, in the same gilt construction over a glossy black lacquer ground. The Mercedes hour hand pairs with a baton minute hand and the same lollipop seconds carried over from Series 1. Logan Baker's 2024 Phillips article notes the early Mercedes hour hand reads markedly longer than later versions — a "first iteration" silhouette that distinguishes Series 2 6205s from later 5508 / 5512 / 5513 hand sets. Sotheby's 2022 lot 13 (case 21,442) documents Mercedes hands paired with a stretch riveted Oyster bracelet on a low-movement-number example; Sotheby's 2019 lot 178 (case 85,972) and Sotheby's 2025 lot 336 (case 86,033, restored by Rolex Atelier de Restauration in 2023) document later-numbered Series 2 examples.


<span id="signed-dial-with-mercedes-hands-second-series"></span>
<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
=== Signed dial with Mercedes hands (second series) ===
File:Ref 6205 caseback.webp|alt=6205 smooth screw-down caseback|6205 smooth screw-down caseback
[[File:Ref 6205 caseback.webp|thumb|right|250px|Smooth screw-down caseback with bubble profile]]
File:Ref 6205 no-depth-dial.webp|alt=6205 Submariner-signed dial without depth rating|6205 Submariner-signed dial without depth rating
</gallery>


The second series brings Submariner text back to the dial and pairs it with Mercedes hands. This is the layout that becomes standard. The dial is still glossy gilt — a glossy black lacquer ground with gold-colored printing and markers.
<span id="signed-dial-with-chapter-ring"></span>
=== Signed dial with chapter ring ===


<span id="submariner-text-variants"></span>
A subset of Series 2 dials adds a chapter ring — the minute-track ring printed around the dial perimeter. Specialist documentation records a 1955 example with a gilt chapter-ring "Submariner" dial paired with the Mercedes hour hand and a 7206/80 bracelet (clasp 1 55). One specialist-documented 1954 example carries a chapter-ring "Submariner only" dial paired with a red-triangle bezel insert. Treat chapter-ring presence as variant-dependent within Series 2 rather than universal.
=== Submariner text variants ===


The 6205 dials were available both with and without “Submariner” text on the dial. The text had not yet been trademarked, so early examples omit it entirely.
<span id="tropical-and-restored-dials"></span>
=== Tropical gilt and Atelier-restored ===


<span id="gilt-finish"></span>
Some 6205 gilt dials have shifted toward brown, a condition collectors call tropical. Sotheby’s 2025 lot 336 records a 2023 Atelier de Restauration service, while Antiquorum’s 2025 lot 377 records a re-lumed, reprinted dial. These are separate condition and service histories, not a ranking of every 6205.
=== Gilt finish ===


All known 6205 dials are glossy gilt with radium lume. Tropical examples exist, where the black lacquer has aged to brown, and these are treated as particularly desirable because of the reference’s short run and early position in the line.
<span id="case-bezel-crystal-and-crown"></span>
== Case, bezel, crystal, and crown ==


<span id="case-bezel-crystal-and-crown-notes"></span>
The 6205 case measures about 37mm without the crown, with a reported 47mm lug-to-lug span. It retains the no-crown-guard architecture and acrylic crystal of the early Submariner family. Series 1 examples are documented with no-hash inserts; a specialist-documented 1954 example has a red-triangle insert with the 12 o’clock marker filled in red enamel. Insert fitment should be checked on the individual watch.
== Case, bezel, crystal, and crown ==


The 6205 case measures 37mm, a slight increase over the 6204’s 36mm. The case remains a no-crown-guard design with a small winding crown, and the crystal is acrylic. The bezel is the early rotating dive type. Forum documentation of a 1954 example shows a red triangle bezel insert — the 12-o’clock marker filled with red enamel or lacquer — which places this bezel style on the 6205 as early as the first full year of production.
Sources give the crown as about 6mm or 5.3mm, so the measurement should be treated as source-dependent. The crown carries the Rolex coronet with the "+" sub-mark in the documented examples. The caseback is smooth on the exterior, with the reference and case number inside; individual caseback markings still need inspection.


An extremely uncommon feature documented by Rolex Forum collectors is a “stainless steel” engraving between the lugs on certain 6205 cases. This marking is not standard across the reference and appears on only a small number of known examples.
A small group of 6205 cases carry a "stainless steel" engraving between the lugs at the 12 o'clock position. A single catalogued example, inventory #5080, is the canonical published record. The engraving is uncommon and does not represent a standard 6205 feature.


Crown size sits at 6mm — larger than the 6204’s 5mm crown but still small compared to the 8mm Brevet crown on the big-crown 6200. The crown displays the Rolex symbol with a plus sign.
<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
File:Ref 6205 case-bezel-profile.webp|alt=Small crown case profile, no crown guards|Small crown case profile, no crown guards
File:Ref 6205 bezel-crystal-top.webp|alt=Domed crystal and bezel, top view|Domed crystal and bezel, top view
</gallery>


The caseback is signed “Brevet +” with an octopus symbol. Notably, there is no “R” or “Patented” wording on the caseback — a detail that distinguishes the 6205 from later references.


<span id="bracelets-end-links-clasps-and-packaging-notes"></span>
<span id="bracelets-end-links-clasps-and-packaging"></span>
== Bracelets, end links, clasps, and packaging notes ==
== Bracelets, end links, clasps, and packaging notes ==
[[File:Ref 6205 bracelet-detail.webp|thumb|right|250px|6205 on wrist — rivet bracelet and small crown profile Detail]]


Known bracelet fitments for the 6205:
Published examples show different period-correct bracelet combinations. An early 21,3xx–21,6xx example has a Gay Frères stretch-riveted Oyster with end links marked 64 or 65; later examples are recorded with 7206 riveted bracelets and 80 end pieces. These observations date the bracelet or clasp, not necessarily the original delivery.


* 6636/64: stretch rivet bracelet
A specialist-documented 1954 example wears a USA C+I rivet bracelet with an 11/80 clasp and 1-61 date code. That later clasp is evidence of later fitment, not original delivery. A clasp code dates the clasp; it does not date the watch head.
* 7206/80: rivet bracelet


The local source base is still light on bracelet specifics. Period-correct fitment would be either the stretch rivet or flat-link rivet Oyster bracelet, both standard for early Submariners.
[[File:Ref 6205 bracelet-detail.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=Rivet bracelet and case-flank detail|Rivet bracelet and case-flank detail]]


<span id="special-branches"></span>
<span id="historical-market-and-auction-record"></span>
== Special branches ==
== Historical market and auction record ==
[[File:Ref 6205 hero 2.jpg|thumb|right|250px|Rolex Submariner Ref. 6205]]


<span id="first-series-clean-dial"></span>
{| class="wikitable sortable"
=== First series clean dial ===
|-
 
! Sale !! Lot !! Year !! Serial !! Variant !! Hammer
The split between the clean-dial first series and the signed second series is the obvious branch structure. First-series examples without Submariner text and without Mercedes hands are rarer and represent the earliest phase of the reference.
|-
| Phillips Game Changers NY || 54 || 2019 || 21,354 || pencil hands, no-Submariner dial, riveted Oyster end-link 65 || USD 162,500
|-
| Sotheby's Important Watches NY || 178 || 2019 || 85,972 || Mercedes, gilt no depth || est. USD 20,000–30,000
|-
| Sotheby's Watches Online 3 || 45 || 2020 || 85,972 || Mercedes + large seconds, no Submariner text noted || est. USD 20,000–30,000
|-
| Sotheby's Fine Watches || 13 || 2022 || 21,442 || Mercedes + lollipop, gilt gloss || est. GBP 10,000–20,000
|-
| Sotheby's Important Watches Part II || 288 || 2024 || 21,465 || gilt black; movement catalogued cal. 765 (likely error) || est. CHF 10,000–30,000
|-
| Sotheby's Important Watches II || 336 || 2025 || 86,033 || Atelier de Restauration 2023 restoration || est. CHF 40,000–80,000
|-
| Antiquorum Geneva || 377 || 2025 || 21,644 || re-lumed reprinted dial, A260 19j || CHF 16,250
|}


<span id="mercedes-hand-introduction"></span>
The sale records show a wide range of condition and service history. Phillips’s pencil-hand 21,354 example sold for USD 162,500. Antiquorum’s 2025 Geneva lot 377, described as re-lumed and reprinted, sold for CHF 16,250 against a CHF 5,000–10,000 estimate. These are individual results, not a price band for the reference. Mercedes hands continued on the 5508, 5512, and 5513.
=== Mercedes hand introduction ===


The second series is the one that changes the Submariner line permanently. The first 6205 with Mercedes hands is, in a real sense, the first Submariner that looks like a Submariner.
== Related references ==


<span id="historical-market-and-auction-record"></span>
* [[Reference:6200|Submariner 6200]]: "King Sub", big crown (1953–1956)
== Historical market and auction record ==
* [[Reference:6204|Submariner 6204]]: 1953–1954
* [[Reference:6536|Submariner 6536]]: early gilt, no crown guards (1955–1958)
* [[Reference:5510|Submariner 5510]]: big crown, caliber 1530 (1957–1958)
* [[Reference:6538|Submariner 6538]]: big crown (1956–1959)
* [[Reference:5508|Submariner 5508]]: 1957–1961


Sotheby’s 2020 Lot 45 is the strongest direct local source, providing enough detail to anchor the reference in the market even if the deeper branch map still leans on the Monochrome family history for context.
See also the [[Reference:submariner|Submariner family index]], [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|bracelet & clasp guide]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial numbers by year]].


The 6205 occupies an interesting position. It is less famous than the 6204 as the first Submariner and less dramatic than the 6200 with its Explorer dial, but the introduction of Mercedes hands gives it real historical weight. Collectors who care about the evolution of the Submariner formula rather than just rarity markers pay close attention to the 6205.
<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
File:Ref 6205 hero.webp|alt=6205 small-crown Submariner|6205 small-crown Submariner
File:Ref 6205 gilt-dial-detail.webp|alt=Gilt dial detail|Gilt dial detail
File:Ref 6205 no-depth-dial.webp|alt=Submariner-signed dial without depth rating|Submariner-signed dial without depth rating
File:Ref 6205 case-bezel-profile.webp|alt=Small-crown case and bezel profile|Small-crown case and bezel profile
File:Ref 6205 bracelet-detail.webp|alt=Riveted bracelet and case flank|Riveted bracelet and case flank
</gallery>


== Sources ==
== Sources ==
* RolexHaven.com variant pages: [https://rolexhaven.com/6205-blank-dial--54.html 6205 Blank Dial] / [https://rolexhaven.com/6205-submariner--54.html 6205 Submariner]
 
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2020/watches-online-3/rolex-reference-6205-small-crown-submariner-a Reference 6205 Small Crown Submariner, A Stainless Steel Automatic Wristwatch With Center Seconds, Circa 1955] — Sotheby's, Sotheby's
* [https://newsroom.rolex.com/watches/oyster-collection/submariner Rolex Submariner models] — official 1969 Submariner Date introduction and 200m/660ft chronology
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/rolex-submariner-history-part-1-the-early-references/ History of the Rolex Submariner - Part 1, The Early References] — Tom Mulraney, Monochrome
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/rolex-submariner-history-part-1-the-early-references/ History of the Rolex Submariner — Part 1, The Early References] — Tom Mulraney (Monochrome, 2020)
* The Vintage Rolex Field Manual, Vintage Rolex Field Manual — Morning Tundra (James Dowling & Jeffrey Hess)
* [https://le-monde-edmond.com/in-depth-review-6205-submariner-rolex/ In-Depth Review: 6205 Submariner Rolex] — Edmond Saran (Le Monde Edmond, 2014)
* The Vintage Rolex Field Manual, Vintage Rolex Field Manual — Morning Tundra (James Dowling & Jeffrey Hess)
* [https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/a-very-early-diver-rolex-6205-submariner A Very-Early Diver: Rolex 6205 Submariner] — Erik Gustafson (Hairspring, 2018)
* [https://www.windvintage.com/rolex-submariner-reference-6205 Rolex Submariner Reference 6205] — Eric Wind (Wind Vintage)
* [https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-submariner-reference-points Reference Points: Understanding The Rolex Submariner] — Stephen Pulvirent (Hodinkee, 2019)
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/NY080119/54 Rolex Reference 6205 — Lot 54, Game Changers NY] (Phillips, 2019)
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2020/watches-online-3/rolex-reference-6205-small-crown-submariner-a Reference 6205 Small Crown Submariner — Watches Online 3 lot 45] (Sotheby's, 2020)
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2022/fine-watches/submariner-small-crown-ref-6205-a-stainless-steel Submariner Ref. 6205 — Fine Watches lot 13] (Sotheby's, 2022)
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2025/importand-watches-ii-ge2511/submariner-reference-6205-a-stainless-steel Submariner Reference 6205 — Important Watches II lot 336] (Sotheby's, 2025)
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-6205-submariner-lot-377-180 Rolex Ref. 6205 Submariner — Antiquorum Geneva lot 377] (Antiquorum, 2025)
* [https://rolexpassionreport.com/23509/rolex-6205-submariner-with-patina-at-its-best/ Rolex 6205 Submariner with Patina at its Best] — Philipp Stahl (Rolex Passion Report, 2017)
* [https://tropicalwatch.com/watches/1955-rolex-submariner-6205/5wiu 1955 Rolex Submariner 6205] (Tropical Watch)
* [https://hqmilton.com/products/1954-rolex-submariner-6205-red-triangle 1954 Rolex Submariner 6205 Red Triangle] (HQ Milton)
* [https://bulangandsons.com/products/rolex-submariner-6205-small-crown-first-submariner-w3332 Rolex Submariner 6205 Small Crown 'First Submariner']
* [https://obwcollection.com/products/rolex-6205-submariner Rolex 6205 Submariner — earliest configuration] (OBW Collection)
* [https://rolexhaven.com/6205-submariner--54.html Submariner 6205 from 1954] (RolexHaven)
* [https://www.phillips.com/article/144608770/rolex-submariner-explorer-dial-6200-big-crown-5512-vintage-auction In-Depth: A Review of Vintage Rolex Submariners with 'Explorer' Dials] — Logan Baker (Phillips, 2024)
* [https://goldammer.me/blogs/articles/rolex-finally-releases-insights-quantifying-the-early-rolex-submariner Quantifying the Early Rolex Submariner] (Goldammer, 2024)
* ''Oyster Perpetual Submariner: The Watch That Unlocked the Deep'' — Nicholas Foulkes (Wallpaper / ACC Art Books, 2024)
* ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' — Colin A. White, Morning Tundra


[[Category:Submariner]]
[[Category:Submariner]]
[[Category:Working Draft]]
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