Reference:1655: Difference between revisions

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The 1655 uses calibre 1575 GMT, also used in the period GMT-Master 1675. In both watches, the 24-hour hand is linked to the hour hand and makes one turn per day. The 1675’s rotating bezel lets the wearer track another time zone; the Explorer II’s fixed bezel leaves the orange hand to indicate day or night. Independent adjustment of the hour hand came with the later 16550 and calibre 3085.

Calibre 1575 GMT runs at 19,800 vibrations per hour and has 26 jewels. Some auction catalogues identify the movement as calibre 1570. ~~Quill & Pad~~ notes that a 1575 bridge may carry that stamp, so identification depends on the movement configuration as well as its markings. Early examples did not all hack; hacking seconds appeared during the movement’s production, and the exact changeover for 1655 examples remains unresolved.

Calibre 1575 GMT runs at 19,800 vibrations per hour and has 26 jewels. Some auction catalogues identify the movement as calibre 1570. Ashton Tracy notes that a 1575 bridge may carry that stamp, so identification depends on the movement configuration as well as its markings. Early examples did not all hack; hacking seconds appeared during the movement’s production, and the exact changeover for 1655 examples remains unresolved.

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==Provenance and names==

Philipp ~~Stahl’s Rolex Passion Report~~ documents Explorer II watches associated with mountaineers Reinhold Messner and Sir Edmund Hillary. ~~Those~~ are individual provenance cases~~. They do~~ not ~~establish that all 1655 watches saw~~ expedition use.

Philipp Stahl documents Explorer II watches associated with mountaineers Reinhold Messner and Sir Edmund Hillary. These are individual provenance cases, not evidence of expedition-wide use.

The nickname “Steve McQueen” appears in auction and dealer descriptions. Accounts differ on how it spread; ~~published provenance for McQueen’s own watches points to Submariners, including~~ the 5513 ~~associated with his stuntman Loren Janes~~. The ~~available record has not tied~~ a 1655 ~~to McQueen’s wrist~~. “Freccione” describes the orange arrow hand without making an ownership claim.

The nickname “Steve McQueen” appears in auction and dealer descriptions. Accounts differ on how it spread; Nick Gould’s account examines the disputed connection between McQueen and Loren Janes’s 5513. The documented McQueen watches in the sources cited here are Submariners; none is a 1655. “Freccione” describes the orange arrow hand without making an ownership claim.

Rolex’s 1978 advertising included a 1655 photographed by Don McCullin. That is a documented advertising association, distinct from ownership or personal wear.

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==Auction record==

Auction catalogues record different specifications for individual examples. Sotheby’s describes a circa-1971 watch with a calibre listed as 1570 and a 38mm case. Phillips’ 2017 Geneva catalogue gives 1570 and 38mm for its circa-1973 example, with a 7836 bracelet, 380 end links and a <code>4.72</code> clasp stamp. Antiquorum lists 1570 and 40mm for a circa-1980 example, with a Mark 5 dial and Mark 3 bezel. Sotheby’s lists 1575 and 39mm for a circa-1984 example. ~~Quill & Pad~~ notes that a 1575 bridge may be stamped <code>1570</code>; calibre identification depends on the movement configuration, not the stamp alone. These catalogues describe individual watches, and their measurements vary.

Auction catalogues record different specifications for individual examples. Sotheby’s describes a circa-1971 watch with a calibre listed as 1570 and a 38mm case. Phillips’ 2017 Geneva catalogue gives 1570 and 38mm for its circa-1973 example, with a 7836 bracelet, 380 end links and a <code>4.72</code> clasp stamp. Antiquorum lists 1570 and 40mm for a circa-1980 example, with a Mark 5 dial and Mark 3 bezel. Sotheby’s lists 1575 and 39mm for a circa-1984 example. Ashton Tracy notes that a 1575 bridge may be stamped <code>1570</code>; calibre identification depends on the movement configuration, not the stamp alone. These catalogues describe individual watches, and their measurements vary.

==Related references==

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See also [[Reference:explorer-ii|Explorer II family]], [[Reference:Movements|Movements]] and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|Serial numbers]].

~~== Gallery ==~~

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* [https://italianwatchspotter.com/rolex-ref-1655-a-complete-guide/?lang=en Andrea David, "The Rolex Explorer II Ref. 1655: A Complete Guide", Italian Watch Spotter]

* [https://italianwatchspotter.com/tropical-dials/?lang=en "Everything You Need To Know About Tropical Dials", Italian Watch Spotter]

* [https://quillandpad.com/2018/06/15/exceptional-movements-in-history-rolex-caliber-1575-the-watchmakers-watch/ "Exceptional Movements In History: Rolex Caliber 1575, The Watchmaker Watch", Quill & Pad, 2018-06-15]

* [https://quillandpad.com/2018/06/15/exceptional-movements-in-history-rolex-caliber-1575-the-watchmakers-watch/ Ashton Tracy, "Exceptional Movements In History: Rolex Caliber 1575, The Watchmaker Watch", Quill & Pad, 2018-06-15]

* [https://quillandpad.com/2018/06/14/the-steve-mcqueen-loren-janes-rolex-submariner-5513-coming-to-auction-how-long-did-he-own-it-how-often-did-he-wear-it-and-how-much-if-any-survived-the-fire/ "Steve McQueen / Loren Janes Rolex Submariner 5513 Saga", Quill & Pad, 2018-06-14]

* [https://quillandpad.com/2018/06/14/the-steve-mcqueen-loren-janes-rolex-submariner-5513-coming-to-auction-how-long-did-he-own-it-how-often-did-he-wear-it-and-how-much-if-any-survived-the-fire/ Nick Gould, "Steve McQueen / Loren Janes Rolex Submariner 5513 Saga", Quill & Pad, 2018-06-14]

* [https://www.rolexmagazine.com/2021/04/the-orange-hand-explorer-ii.html Jake Ehrlich, "The Orange Hand Explorer II", Rolex Magazine, 2021-04-07]

* [https://www.rolexmagazine.com/2021/08/rolex-explorer-ii-1655-and-226570.html Jake Ehrlich, "Rolex Explorer II 1655 and 226570", Rolex Magazine]

@@ Line 107: / Line 107: @@
 The 1655 uses calibre 1575 GMT, also used in the period GMT-Master 1675. In both watches, the 24-hour hand is linked to the hour hand and makes one turn per day. The 1675’s rotating bezel lets the wearer track another time zone; the Explorer II’s fixed bezel leaves the orange hand to indicate day or night. Independent adjustment of the hour hand came with the later 16550 and calibre 3085.
-Calibre 1575 GMT runs at 19,800 vibrations per hour and has 26 jewels. Some auction catalogues identify the movement as calibre 1570. Quill & Pad notes that a 1575 bridge may carry that stamp, so identification depends on the movement configuration as well as its markings. Early examples did not all hack; hacking seconds appeared during the movement’s production, and the exact changeover for 1655 examples remains unresolved.
+Calibre 1575 GMT runs at 19,800 vibrations per hour and has 26 jewels. Some auction catalogues identify the movement as calibre 1570. Ashton Tracy notes that a 1575 bridge may carry that stamp, so identification depends on the movement configuration as well as its markings. Early examples did not all hack; hacking seconds appeared during the movement’s production, and the exact changeover for 1655 examples remains unresolved.
 [[File:Ref 1655 caliber-1575.webp|thumb|right|240px|alt=Calibre 1575 GMT movement used in the Rolex Explorer II 1655|Calibre 1575 GMT.]]
@@ Line 189: / Line 189: @@
 ==Provenance and names==
-Philipp Stahl’s Rolex Passion Report documents Explorer II watches associated with mountaineers Reinhold Messner and Sir Edmund Hillary. Those are individual provenance cases. They do not establish that all 1655 watches saw expedition use.
+Philipp Stahl documents Explorer II watches associated with mountaineers Reinhold Messner and Sir Edmund Hillary. These are individual provenance cases, not evidence of expedition-wide use.
-The nickname “Steve McQueen” appears in auction and dealer descriptions. Accounts differ on how it spread; published provenance for McQueen’s own watches points to Submariners, including the 5513 associated with his stuntman Loren Janes. The available record has not tied a 1655 to McQueen’s wrist. “Freccione” describes the orange arrow hand without making an ownership claim.
+The nickname “Steve McQueen” appears in auction and dealer descriptions. Accounts differ on how it spread; Nick Gould’s account examines the disputed connection between McQueen and Loren Janes’s 5513. The documented McQueen watches in the sources cited here are Submariners; none is a 1655. “Freccione” describes the orange arrow hand without making an ownership claim.
 Rolex’s 1978 advertising included a 1655 photographed by Don McCullin. That is a documented advertising association, distinct from ownership or personal wear.
@@ Line 197: / Line 197: @@
 ==Auction record==
-Auction catalogues record different specifications for individual examples. Sotheby’s describes a circa-1971 watch with a calibre listed as 1570 and a 38mm case. Phillips’ 2017 Geneva catalogue gives 1570 and 38mm for its circa-1973 example, with a 7836 bracelet, 380 end links and a <code>4.72</code> clasp stamp. Antiquorum lists 1570 and 40mm for a circa-1980 example, with a Mark 5 dial and Mark 3 bezel. Sotheby’s lists 1575 and 39mm for a circa-1984 example. Quill & Pad notes that a 1575 bridge may be stamped <code>1570</code>; calibre identification depends on the movement configuration, not the stamp alone. These catalogues describe individual watches, and their measurements vary.
+Auction catalogues record different specifications for individual examples. Sotheby’s describes a circa-1971 watch with a calibre listed as 1570 and a 38mm case. Phillips’ 2017 Geneva catalogue gives 1570 and 38mm for its circa-1973 example, with a 7836 bracelet, 380 end links and a <code>4.72</code> clasp stamp. Antiquorum lists 1570 and 40mm for a circa-1980 example, with a Mark 5 dial and Mark 3 bezel. Sotheby’s lists 1575 and 39mm for a circa-1984 example. Ashton Tracy notes that a 1575 bridge may be stamped <code>1570</code>; calibre identification depends on the movement configuration, not the stamp alone. These catalogues describe individual watches, and their measurements vary.
 ==Related references==
@@ Line 206: / Line 206: @@
 See also [[Reference:explorer-ii|Explorer II family]], [[Reference:Movements|Movements]] and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|Serial numbers]].
-== Gallery ==
 <gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
@@ Line 226: / Line 224: @@
 * [https://italianwatchspotter.com/rolex-ref-1655-a-complete-guide/?lang=en Andrea David, "The Rolex Explorer II Ref. 1655: A Complete Guide", Italian Watch Spotter]
 * [https://italianwatchspotter.com/tropical-dials/?lang=en "Everything You Need To Know About Tropical Dials", Italian Watch Spotter]
-* [https://quillandpad.com/2018/06/15/exceptional-movements-in-history-rolex-caliber-1575-the-watchmakers-watch/ "Exceptional Movements In History: Rolex Caliber 1575, The Watchmaker Watch", Quill & Pad, 2018-06-15]
+* [https://quillandpad.com/2018/06/15/exceptional-movements-in-history-rolex-caliber-1575-the-watchmakers-watch/ Ashton Tracy, "Exceptional Movements In History: Rolex Caliber 1575, The Watchmaker Watch", Quill & Pad, 2018-06-15]
-* [https://quillandpad.com/2018/06/14/the-steve-mcqueen-loren-janes-rolex-submariner-5513-coming-to-auction-how-long-did-he-own-it-how-often-did-he-wear-it-and-how-much-if-any-survived-the-fire/ "Steve McQueen / Loren Janes Rolex Submariner 5513 Saga", Quill & Pad, 2018-06-14]
+* [https://quillandpad.com/2018/06/14/the-steve-mcqueen-loren-janes-rolex-submariner-5513-coming-to-auction-how-long-did-he-own-it-how-often-did-he-wear-it-and-how-much-if-any-survived-the-fire/ Nick Gould, "Steve McQueen / Loren Janes Rolex Submariner 5513 Saga", Quill & Pad, 2018-06-14]
 * [https://www.rolexmagazine.com/2021/04/the-orange-hand-explorer-ii.html Jake Ehrlich, "The Orange Hand Explorer II", Rolex Magazine, 2021-04-07]
 * [https://www.rolexmagazine.com/2021/08/rolex-explorer-ii-1655-and-226570.html Jake Ehrlich, "Rolex Explorer II 1655 and 226570", Rolex Magazine]