Reference:18238: Difference between revisions
| [checked revision] | [checked revision] |
Create Day-Date 18238 — double-quickset 5-digit President (cal 3155, 1988-2000); successor to 18038, bridge to 118238; 10 sources, 2 images |
Remove unsupported volume-production wording from dial caption |
||
| (26 intermediate revisions by 2 users not shown) | |||
| Line 1: | Line 1: | ||
{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex 18238 Day-Date}} | {{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex 18238 Day-Date}} | ||
{{#seo: | {{#seo: | ||
|title=Rolex 18238 Day-Date — Double-Quickset 5-Digit President | |title=Rolex 18238 Day-Date — Double-Quickset 5-Digit President | ||
|description=The 18238 (1988–2000) is the double-quickset 5-digit Day-Date: caliber 3155 sets both day and date from the crown, in the 36mm yellow-gold fluted President with sapphire crystal. Successor to the 18038, bridge to the 6-digit 118238. | |description=The 18238 (1988–2000) is the double-quickset 5-digit Day-Date: caliber 3155 sets both day and date from the crown, in the 36mm yellow-gold fluted President with sapphire crystal. Successor to the 18038, bridge to the 6-digit 118238. | ||
|keywords=Rolex 18238, Day-Date, President, caliber 3155, double quickset, 18038, 118238, 18248, yellow gold | |keywords=Rolex 18238, Day-Date, President, caliber 3155, double quickset, 18038, 118238, 18248, yellow gold | ||
|image=Ref 18238 hero.webp | |image=Ref 18238 hero.webp | ||
|image_alt=Rolex Day-Date 18238 in yellow gold with fluted bezel and black tapestry dial | |image_alt=Rolex Day-Date 18238 in yellow gold with fluted bezel and black tapestry dial | ||
|type= | |type=Article | ||
|og_type=article | |og_type=article | ||
|published_time=2026-06-07T23:20:18Z | |||
|modified_time=2026-08-04T00:10:55Z | |||
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large | |robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large | ||
|titlemode=replace | |||
}} | }} | ||
<small>[[Reference:day-date|Day-Date]] | <small>[[Reference:day-date|Day-Date]] › '''18238'''</small> | ||
<div class="rp-lead"> | |||
[[File:Ref 18238 hero.webp|thumb|center|640px|alt=The 18238 in yellow gold, three-quarter view: fluted bezel, sapphire crystal, champagne dial, and the President bracelet extending to both edges.|The 18238 in yellow gold, three-quarter view: fluted bezel, sapphire crystal, champagne dial, and the President bracelet extending to both edges.]] | |||
</div> | |||
[[ | The 18238 replaced the [[Reference:18038|18038]] in 1988. It kept the 36mm yellow-gold case, fluted bezel, sapphire crystal, and President bracelet, but introduced caliber 3155. The movement added independent quickset correction for both the day and date. Production ended around 2000, when the six-digit [[Reference:118238|118238]] took over with a revised case and bracelet. | ||
==Core facts== | ==Core facts== | ||
{| class="wikitable" | {| class="wikitable rp-facts" | ||
|- | |- | ||
! detail | ! detail | ||
| Line 52: | Line 57: | ||
|- | |- | ||
| lume | | lume | ||
| tritium ("T SWISS MADE T") early | | tritium ("T SWISS MADE T") on early examples; Luminova or transitional non-tritium dials on later examples | ||
|- | |- | ||
| siblings | | siblings | ||
| 18248 (diamond bezel), 18239 / 18249 white gold, the | | [[Reference:18248|18248]] (bark), [[Reference:18348|18348]] (diamond bezel), 18239 / 18249 white gold, the [[Reference:18208|18208]] smooth and platinum variants of the 3155 generation | ||
|- | |- | ||
| predecessor | | predecessor | ||
| 18038 (single quickset, caliber 3055) | | [[Reference:18038|18038]] (single quickset, caliber 3055) | ||
|- | |- | ||
| successor | | successor | ||
| 118238 (6-digit, caliber 3155) | | [[Reference:118238|118238]] (6-digit, caliber 3155) | ||
|} | |} | ||
==Where it sits in the line== | ==Where it sits in the line== | ||
The 18238 | The 18238 follows the [[Reference:18038|18038]], which brought sapphire and quickset date to the 36mm Day-Date in 1977 with caliber 3055. The 18238 arrived in 1988 with caliber 3155 and double quickset. The six-digit [[Reference:118238|118238]] followed around 2000 with the same caliber number but a revised case and a solid-link bracelet. The 18238 is the last five-digit yellow-gold fluted President before that case change. | ||
The | The 3155 generation splits by metal and bezel. The 18238 is yellow gold with a fluted bezel; the [[Reference:18248|18248]] has a bark finish; the [[Reference:18348|18348]] has a factory diamond bezel; and the 18239 and 18249 are white-gold fluted and bark variants. Smooth-bezel and platinum references complete the range. The cited five-digit group contains no pink-gold reference. | ||
==Production outline== | ==Production outline== | ||
The 18238 ran for roughly twelve years | The 18238 ran for roughly twelve years. Early examples carry tritium, marked "T SWISS MADE T" at the foot of the dial; later examples use non-tritium luminous material, with transitional wording reported in the late 1990s. The case and caliber define the reference, but dial, bracelet, and service parts still need to be checked on an individual watch. | ||
Serial | Serial dating follows the period's Rolex letter-prefix series. The reference overlaps the start of the six-digit era before giving way to the 118238. | ||
==Movement notes== | ==Movement notes== | ||
The caliber 3155 is the | The caliber 3155 is the defining mechanical change from the 18038's 3055. It keeps the 28,800 vph rate and roughly 48-hour reserve, but adds a quickset for the day so both discs can be corrected from the crown. The 3155 continued into the 6-digit 118238, where the case and bracelet changed. The Day-Date II later used the related caliber 3156. The full caliber lineage sits on [[Reference:Movements]]. | ||
==Dial map== | ==Dial map== | ||
The 18238 was offered across the standard President dial range: champagne and silver with applied gold markers, Roman-numeral and diamond-hour-marker dials, mother-of-pearl, textured linen-weave grounds in black and champagne, and stone or other special-order dials. The Stella lacquer and Stern Frères stone dials associated with the 1803 are less often documented in the 18238 records cited here. The dial-variant taxonomy that spans the whole President line sits on the [[Reference:1803|1803]] entry. | |||
<gallery mode="packed" heights="180"> | |||
File:Ref 18238 detail.webp|alt=Rolex 18238 with a stone dial and diamond hour markers|A stone-dial 18238 with diamond hour markers, one of the special-order dials offered across the President range. | |||
File:Ref 18238 champagne-dial-portrait.webp|alt=Rolex 18238 with the standard champagne dial, fluted bezel, and sapphire crystal|A standard champagne-dial 18238 with applied gold markers, fluted bezel and sapphire crystal. | |||
</gallery> | |||
Wood dials are a documented branch of the 18238 range. Rolex used wood dials on gold Presidents before this reference, and the five-digit examples continued into the 1990s. Hodinkee's guide illustrates a walnut 18238 dated circa 1996 and describes the later dials as lacquered before printing. That finish distinguishes them from the earlier straight-grain dials described in the same guide. | |||
Published references name birch, African mahogany and walnut for the five-digit generation. Collector material also reports madrona or madrone, but that attribution rests on period advertising and secondary research. A wood species or grain pattern is therefore a lead, not proof of original delivery. Replacement wood dials can appear in later cases, so papers and service records matter. | |||
Wood is vulnerable to moisture, lifting, and cracking, so gasket and service history matter. A dial can be replaced, and the dial alone does not establish original delivery; use papers or service records where available. | |||
==Case, bezel, crystal, and crown== | ==Case, bezel, crystal, and crown== | ||
The case is | The case is a 36mm three-piece yellow-gold Oyster with a sapphire crystal and fluted bezel. The Twinlock screw-down crown is commonly specified at 100m / 330ft water resistance. The 18238 keeps the slimmer five-digit case treatment; the six-digit 118238 has broader, more polished lugs and a heavier bracelet. | ||
==Bracelets, end links, and clasps== | ==Bracelets, end links, and clasps== | ||
The 18238 wears | The 18238 wears President bracelet reference 8385 with the older concealed clasp. The links are 18k gold but can stretch with use. A clasp date code dates the bracelet, not the watch head; the cross-family bracelet detail sits on [[Reference:Bracelets]]. | ||
==Special branches== | ==Special branches== | ||
| Line 98: | Line 112: | ||
===The 3155 generation siblings=== | ===The 3155 generation siblings=== | ||
Within the 3155 generation, the 18238 is the yellow-gold fluted variant. The diamond-bezel [[Reference:18348|18348]], white-gold 18239 and 18249, and platinum variants are separate branches with different case and metal specifications. | |||
==Auction record== | ==Auction record== | ||
Auction and dealer results for the 18238 vary with gold condition, dial originality, bracelet stretch, and the presence of box and papers. Standard champagne and silver dials are easier to compare than wood, stone, diamond, or other special-order configurations. No single price range represents the reference: gold condition, dial, bracelet and paperwork vary between individual watches. | |||
==Related references== | |||
* [[Reference:18208|Day-Date 18208]], 1988–2000 | |||
* [[Reference:18248|Day-Date 18248]], 1988–2000 | |||
* [[Reference:18348|Day-Date 18348]], 1988–2000 | |||
* [[Reference:19018|Day-Date 19018]], Oysterquartz President (1977–2001) | |||
* [[Reference:18028|Day-Date 18028]], 1977–1988 | |||
* [[Reference:18038|Day-Date 18038]], caliber 3055 President (1977–1988) | |||
See also the [[Reference:day-date|Day-Date family index]], [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|bracelet & clasp guide]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial numbers by year]]. | |||
== | <gallery mode="packed" heights="180"> | ||
File:Ref 18238 hero.webp|Rolex Day-Date 18238 | |||
File:Ref 18238 detail.webp|Stone dial and diamond markers | |||
File:Ref 18238 champagne-dial-portrait.webp|Champagne dial and fluted bezel | |||
</gallery> | |||
== Sources == | |||
* ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' — Colin A. White, Morning Tundra | * ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' — Colin A. White, Morning Tundra | ||
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2026/important-watches/reference-18238-day-date-a-yellow-gold-automatic Sotheby's, "Reference 18238 Day-Date", 2026 lot record] | |||
* [https://www.fratellowatches.com/exploring-evergreens-the-rolex-day-date-18238/ Fratello editorial, "Exploring Evergreens: The Rolex Day-Date 18238", Fratello Watches] | * [https://www.fratellowatches.com/exploring-evergreens-the-rolex-day-date-18238/ Fratello editorial, "Exploring Evergreens: The Rolex Day-Date 18238", Fratello Watches] | ||
* [https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-collectors-guide-to-weird-and-wonderful-wooden-dials A Collector's Guide to Weird and Wonderful Wooden Dials] — Malaika Crawford (Hodinkee, 2023) | |||
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/history-rolex-day-date-1956-present-president-watch-in-depth-review/ Monochrome editorial, "In-Depth: The History of the Rolex Day-Date, The Presidential Watch", Monochrome Watches] | * [https://monochrome-watches.com/history-rolex-day-date-1956-present-president-watch-in-depth-review/ Monochrome editorial, "In-Depth: The History of the Rolex Day-Date, The Presidential Watch", Monochrome Watches] | ||
* [https://www.sothebys.com/ Sotheby's editorial, "The Rolex Day-Date: A Complete Collector's Guide", Sotheby's] | * [https://www.sothebys.com/ Sotheby's editorial, "The Rolex Day-Date: A Complete Collector's Guide", Sotheby's] | ||
| Line 118: | Line 149: | ||
[[Category:Day-Date]] | [[Category:Day-Date]] | ||
[[Category:References]] | [[Category:References]] | ||