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{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex 18038 Day-Date}}
{{#seo:
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex 18038 Day-Date — Sapphire-Crystal Cal 3055, Stella + Stone + Pleiade | BezelBase
|title=Rolex Day-Date 18038 — Cal 3055 President, 1977–1988 | Rolexopedia
|description=The 18038 is the benchmark 5-digit Day-Date — 1977 to 1988, cal 3055 with single quickset date, 36mm 18k yellow gold President. First Day-Date with sapphire crystal, Stella third-series dials in T SWISS MADE T marking, Stern stone-dial expansion 1980–1990, wood/burl, and the uncatalogued Pleiade diamond pattern.
|description=The Rolex 18038 is the five-digit Day-Date 36 from 1977–1988, with caliber 3055, single quickset date, sapphire crystal, and a yellow-gold President case. The page covers its dial and special-commission variants.
|keywords=Rolex 18038, Day-Date, cal 3055, sapphire crystal, single quickset, Stella, Pleiade diamond, wood burl, 18028, 18048, 18078, 18039, 18049, 18079, 18026
|keywords=Rolex 18038, Day-Date, cal 3055, sapphire crystal, single quickset, Stella, Pleiade diamond, wood burl, 18028, 18048, 18078, 18039, 18049, 18079, 18026
|image=Ref 1803 hero.webp
|image=Ref 18038 hero.webp
|image_alt=Rolex Day-Date 18038 — 5-digit sapphire-crystal benchmark
|image_alt=Rolex Day-Date 18038 silver dial — first sapphire-crystal Day-Date, cal 3055 with single quickset date. Image via Monochrome.
|type=article
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|og_type=article
|published_time=2026-05-24T20:33:21Z
|modified_time=2026-08-04T00:10:32Z
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
}}
}}


<small>[[Reference:day-date|Day-Date]] → '''18038'''</small>
<small>[[Reference:day-date|Day-Date]] › '''18038'''</small>
 
<div class="rp-lead">
[[File:Ref 18038 hero.webp|thumb|center|640px|alt=Rolex Day-Date 18038 silver dial — first sapphire-crystal Day-Date, cal 3055 with single quickset date. Image via Monochrome.|Rolex Day-Date 18038 silver dial — first sapphire-crystal Day-Date, cal 3055 with single quickset date. Image via Monochrome.]]
</div>
 
The 18038 is a five-digit Day-Date 36 documented from 1977 through 1988. It introduced sapphire crystal and the single quickset date with caliber 3055, while keeping the 36 mm yellow-gold President case and fluted bezel. Its surviving dials include Stella lacquer, stone, wood, diamond-set, and special-commission examples; each branch needs watch-specific evidence.


The 18038 is the benchmark 5-digit Day-Date. Production runs eleven years, 1977 through 1988, on the cal 3055 — first Day-Date to wear sapphire crystal, first to carry quickset date, first to jump from the 1556's 19,800 vph to the modern 28,800 vph. Same 36mm President case the 1803 established. Same fluted bezel on yellow gold. The 18038 is where the Day-Date moves from vintage spec to modern spec without changing the case dimensions, and where the dial-variant experimentation of the 1803 era continues into the sapphire-crystal generation — Stella third-series in T SWISS MADE T marking, stone-dial 1980-1990 expansion, wood-burl revival, and the uncatalogued Pleiade diamond-pattern sub-variant that surfaces with a documented ~7,000 CHF factory surcharge.


==Core facts==
==Core facts==
 
{| class="wikitable rp-facts"
{| class="wikitable"
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==Where it sits in the line==
==Where it sits in the line==
The 18038 is the sapphire-crystal step in the Day-Date line. The 1803 used acrylic and caliber 1556; the 18038 keeps the 36 mm case, changes to sapphire, and uses caliber 3055 with a quickset date. The 18238 followed in 1988 with caliber 3155 and double quickset.


The 18038 is the sapphire-crystal step in the Day-Date line. The 1803 ran the 4-digit Day-Date through 1977-78 on the acrylic crystal and the cal 1556. The 18038 takes the same 36mm Oyster case forward, drops in sapphire crystal, swaps the movement to the cal 3055, and adds quickset date — the operational change that pulls the Day-Date into the modern era. The 18238 takes it forward in 1988 with the cal 3155 and double quickset.
Caliber-wise the 18038 carries the cal 3055, the third-generation Day-Date movement after the 1055 of the originals era (1956 to 1959) and the 1555 and 1556 of the 1803 era (1959 to 1978). The 3055 inherits the day-and-date complication and adds quickset on the date only; the day still requires running the hands through midnight. Dual quickset, indexed from the crown on both day and date, arrives in 1988 with the cal 3155 on the 18238. Sources occasionally describe the 18038 as "double quickset"; the phrasing conflates the cal 3055 with the cal 3155 / 3156 of later 6-digit references. The 18038 has single quickset.
 
Caliber-wise the 18038 carries the '''cal 3055''', the third-generation Day-Date movement after the 1055 (originals era, 1956-1959) and the 1555 / 1556 (1803 era, 1959-1978). The 3055 inherits the day-and-date complication and adds quickset DATE only — the day still requires running hands through midnight. The dual-quickset (date AND day both indexed from the crown) arrives in 1988 with the cal 3155 on the 18238. Sources occasionally describe the 18038 as having "double quickset" — that conflates the cal 3055 with the cal 3155 / 3156 on later 6-digit references. The 18038 has single quickset.
 
The catalogue siblings split the 5-digit Day-Date by bezel finish and case material:


* '''18038''' — 18k yellow gold, fluted bezel. The volume reference of the family.
The five-digit siblings split by bezel finish and case material. The 18028 is yellow gold with a smooth bezel; the 18048 has a factory diamond bezel; and the 18078 uses a bark-finish bezel and bark centre links. White-gold references include 18039, 18049, and 18079. The 18026 is the platinum smooth-bezel reference. Catalogues and surviving watches should be checked together because collector names do not always match factory descriptions.
* '''18028''' — 18k yellow gold, smooth bezel. Rare; smooth-bezel President is the dressy outlier.
* '''18048''' — 18k yellow gold, factory diamond bezel with 44 round brilliants.
* '''18078''' — 18k yellow gold, bark-finish bezel and bark center links. Limited production.
* '''18039''' — 18k white gold, fluted bezel. Subtle / under-the-radar.
* '''18049''' — 18k white gold, factory diamond bezel.
* '''18079''' — 18k white gold, bark-finish (yellow gold bark also documented under this number — market naming inconsistency).
* '''18026''' — platinum, smooth bezel. Extremely rare.


There is no pink-gold 5-digit single-quickset Day-Date. Pink gold pauses in the 1970s and returns in the 6-digit era with the 118135 and 118235 (Everose) references. Catalogue listings of "18058" or "18068" pink-gold 5-digit Day-Dates are confusion with the 1803 era pink gold or with the 6-digit successors — no factory production at the 18038 spec.
The sources used here do not list a pink-gold five-digit single-quickset reference. Listings for “18058” or “18068” should be checked against the case and movement because those numbers are easily confused with other Day-Date generations.


==Production outline==
==Production outline==
===1977 — sapphire-crystal introduction===
===1977 — sapphire-crystal introduction===
The 18038 appears in the 1977 five-digit transition. Sapphire replaces acrylic, caliber 3055 replaces caliber 1556, frequency rises to 28,800 vph, and the quickset date changes the date without a full hand cycle. The documented case specification gives 100 m water resistance with a Twinlock crown.


The 18038 launches in 1977 alongside the broader Rolex 5-digit transition. Sapphire crystal replaces acrylic across the Day-Date for the first time. Cal 3055 replaces the cal 1556 — frequency jumps to 28,800 vph, quickset date enables single-crown date correction without running hands through 24-hour cycles, water resistance rises to 100 metres with the Twinlock screw-down crown.
Serial-year correlation is approximate. The published period charts place 18038 examples across the late 5-million through R-prefix ranges; use the [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial-number guide]] with the caseback and papers rather than treating a range as a reference-specific cutoff.
 
Serial-year correlation across the run (per the WatchGuys / Belmont chart, applies to all Rolex of the period — Day-Date used the same number stream):
 
* 1977 ≈ 5,085,000
* 1979 ≈ 5,865,000
* 1980 ≈ 6,205,000
* 1981 ≈ 6,560,000
* 1982 ≈ 7,130,000
* 1983 ≈ 7,600,000
* 1984 ≈ 8,375,000
* 1985 ≈ 9,155,000
* 1987 ≈ R-prefix early (R'500,000s)
* 1988 ≈ R'999,999 end of run


===1980s — dial-variant experimentation===
===1980s — dial-variant experimentation===
Production-volume dials are the silver, champagne, white, and black stick (and Roman) configurations on 18k yellow gold. From approximately 1980 onward, the dial experimentation that defined the 1803 era continues straight into the sapphire-crystal generation.


Production-volume dials are the silver, champagne, white, and black stick (and Roman) configurations on 18k yellow gold. From approximately 1980 onward the dial experimentation that defined the 1803 era continues into the sapphire-crystal generation.
The Stella lacquer dials carry forward under T SWISS T and T SWISS MADE T markings. Documented colours include turquoise, oxblood, coral, salmon, green, and Middle Eastern-market yellow, pink, orange, and red examples. The public record does not establish a complete colour sequence or rarity ranking.
 
'''Stella third-series.''' The Stella lacquer dials continue under the T SWISS MADE T marking — distinguishing the 18038 generation from the 1803's earlier T SWISS T print. Documented colours include turquoise (asking USD 147,000 in current dealer corpus), oxblood (Chrono24 NOS example USD 125,179), coral / salmon (among rarest 18038 Stellas), green (USD 73,500 band), and the Middle Eastern market dials in yellow, pink, orange, and red.


'''Stone dials.''' Stern Frères continues to supply stone-cut dials. The 18038 roster includes onyx (most production-stable; specialist-dealer 1979 and 1986 documented), lapis lazuli (deep blue with golden pyrite shimmer; Craft & Tailored 1979), malachite (green wavy pattern — Day-Date and Datejust only per Fratello), and coral. Production peaks 1980-1990.
Stone-cut dials in the 18038 record include onyx, lapis lazuli, malachite, and coral. The sources establish examples rather than a complete Stern production roster or a production peak.


'''Wood / burl.''' Wood-marquetry dials surface in the 18038 era — sequoia, mahogany, birch, madrona, walnut. Strongly associated with 18078 bark-case examples but appearing on 18038 fluted cases (S.Song's Burl Wood, RVM 1981/1982 examples). Period claim: Rolex would mill ten wooden dials and select the best.
Wood-marquetry dials surface in the 18038 era, including sequoia, mahogany, birch, madrona, and walnut. The configuration is more often associated with 18078 bark cases, but 18038 fluted examples are also documented. The period claim that Rolex milled ten wooden dials and selected the best is not anchored in a surfaced production document.


'''Pleiade diamond.''' Seven-star diamond pattern referencing the Pleiades myth. Introduced early 1980s as an uncatalogued option with a documented ~7,000 CHF factory surcharge. 1987 Pleiade 18038 asked USD 35,000.
The Pleiade is a seven-star diamond pattern named for the Pleiades. Specialist sources describe it as an uncatalogued early-1980s option; the page does not state a surcharge or asking price without a primary document.


'''Tritium-marking transition.''' Early 18038 production carries T SWISS T at the bottom of the dial; later production carries T SWISS MADE T. VRF thread t=561098 documents both marks across 18038 production — arguing two sub-generations within the 11-year window rather than a single mark.
Early 18038 production carries T SWISS T at the bottom of the dial; later production carries T SWISS MADE T. VRF thread t=561098 documents both marks across the run, supporting two sub-generations within the eleven-year window rather than a single mark.


===1988 — end of production===
===1988 — end of production===
 
Production ends as the 18238 enters the line in 1988. Retail figures are market data and are omitted here because the surviving catalogues are not consistent enough to establish a single series.
Production ends with the 18238 introduction. Final retail USD 19,500 (1988). Earlier 1980s catalogue figures cluster the $7,000 to $10,000 band.


==Movement notes==
==Movement notes==
The cal 3055 is the third-generation Day-Date movement. It measures 28.5mm by 6.6mm and runs 27 jewels (up from the cal 1556's 26) at 28,800 vph (up from 19,800 vph) with roughly 48 hours of power reserve. The architecture is the familiar Rolex specification: free-sprung Microstella balance, Glucydur balance with Microstella weights, Nivarox hairspring, hacking seconds, COSC chronometer certification. The functional change against the 1556 is single quickset on the date: crown position 2 advances the date directly, while the day still requires running the hands through midnight.


Caliber 3055 — the third-generation Day-Date movement.
The cal 3055 is an earlier member of the automatic Day-Date movement family that includes the later 3155, 3156, and 3255. Service history should be recorded separately from the movement's factory specification.


Specifications:
The 18038 is commonly documented with President bracelet 8385, 55B end-links, and a hidden Crownclasp. Bracelet and clasp fitment still needs to be checked on the individual watch because later replacements are common.
 
* 28.5mm × 6.6mm
* 27 jewels (up from cal 1556's 26)
* 28,800 vph / 4 Hz (up from cal 1556's 19,800 vph)
* Approximately 48-hour power reserve
* '''Single quickset''' date — crown position 2 advances date only; day still requires running hands
* Hacking seconds
* Free-sprung Microstella balance
* Glucydur balance with Microstella weights
* Nivarox hairspring
* COSC chronometer certified
 
The cal 3055 is the architectural ancestor of the cal 3155 / 3156 / 3255 that follow. Service intervals at Rolex Service Centre run 10 years officially, 5 to 7 years per independent watchmakers. Full service USD 1,000-1,500 at Rolex Service Centre, USD 500-800 independent.
 
The bracelet-and-clasp evolution from 1803 to 18038 is the cleaner visual divider than the cal 3055 spec itself. The 1803's earlier visible-clasp 7205 / 7836 bracelet had been replaced by the President 8385 with hidden Crownclasp from approximately 1969 — well within the 1803's run — so the 18038 ships on the same 8385 / 55B / Crownclasp combination, with subtle finish refinements over the decade-plus production span.


==Dial map==
==Dial map==
===Production-volume dials===
===Production-volume dials===
Silver, champagne, white, and black stick indices on 18k yellow gold are the common 18038 dials. Roman-numeral configurations are also catalogued. Diamond-hour-marker variants appear from the early 1980s, including champagne dials with round and baguette markers. Sapphire accents at 6 and 9 appear on some champagne and black variants. A full pavé-diamond dial with calibre-cut sapphires at 6 and 9 and a diamond-set bezel, case no. 5724381, surfaced at Bonhams with provenance back to Christie's Geneva, 13 November 2006, lot 303, catalogued there as "Property of a Royal House." Its auction entry is listed below.


Silver, champagne, white, and black stick indices on 18k yellow gold are the production-volume 18038 dials. Roman-numeral configurations are also catalogued. Diamond-hour-marker variants appear from the early 1980s — champagne with 8 round + 2 baguette diamond hour markers is one of the more-traded configurations. Sapphire accents at 6 and 9 appear on some champagne and black variants.
===Tropical dial===
A sunburst dial that has shifted to a plum or brown "tropical" tone through UV and chemical aging is documented on the 18038. Bonhams catalogued a c.1978 example as "sunburst tropical plum" with its box, chronometer certificate, and a spare link; the auction entry is listed below.


===Stella third-series===
===Stella third-series===
 
The Stella supplier carries from the 1803 era into the sapphire-crystal generation, with T SWISS T and T SWISS MADE T markings across the run. Documented 18038 colours include turquoise, oxblood, coral, salmon, green, and Middle Eastern-market yellow, pink, orange, and red dials. The public examples do not establish a complete roster or a ranking by rarity.
The Stella supplier continues from the 1803 era into the sapphire-crystal generation, with the dial marking refined to T SWISS MADE T as the broader Rolex industry-wide marking convention shifts. Documented colours on the 18038:
 
* '''Turquoise''' — among the rarest 18038 dials. Documented asking USD 147,000 in 2024 dealer-market listings. Rose from approximately USD 40,000 in 2015.
* '''Oxblood''' — deep brick-red. Chrono24 NOS example documented at USD 125,179.
* '''Coral / salmon''' — among the rarest. Top-tier collector configuration.
* '''Green''' — documented in the USD 73,500 band, often paired with white gold (18039).
* '''Yellow / pink / orange / red''' — primarily Middle East market distribution per Beckertime.


===Stone dials===
===Stone dials===
Stone-cut dials in the 18038 record include onyx, lapis lazuli, malachite, coral, and dark blue aventurine. Bonhams catalogued an aventurine example in 2019; its auction result is listed below.


Stern Frères supplied stone-cut dials through 1980-1990 in increasing variety. The 18038 stone-dial roster:
Other stone materials are documented across the broader Day-Date line, but the 18038 examples checked here are concentrated in onyx, lapis, malachite, coral, and aventurine.
 
* '''Onyx''' — dyed agate, deep black glossy. Most production-stable variant.
* '''Lapis lazuli''' — deep blue with golden pyrite shimmer. Documented Craft & Tailored 1979 example.
* '''Malachite''' — green wavy pattern. Day-Date and Datejust only per Fratello research.
* '''Coral''' — natural pink-orange. Often paired with white gold case.
 
Other materials documented on the broader Day-Date stone-dial line — tiger's eye, jasper, bloodstone, mother-of-pearl, jade, opal, sodalite, chrysoprase, rubellite, petrified wood, howlite, pyrite — surface more frequently on the 1803 era. The 18038 stone-dial concentration is the onyx / lapis / malachite / coral cluster.


===Wood / burl===
===Wood / burl===
 
The wood-marquetry revival of the late 1970s and 1980s appears more often on 18078 bark cases, but 18038 examples are documented. The catalogue record includes sequoia, mahogany, birch, madrona, and walnut. The repeated claim that Rolex milled ten wooden dials and selected the best is not anchored in a surfaced production document.
The wood-marquetry dial revival in the late 1970s and 1980s applies more often to 18078 bark cases than to 18038 fluted, but documented 18038 examples surface. Sequoia, mahogany, birch (the "Birch Burlwood" specialist-coined sub-variant), madrona, walnut. Documented surfaced 18038 wood-dial examples include the S.Song's Burl Wood listing and a pair of RVM 1981 / 1982 examples. The period claim that "Rolex would mill ten wooden dials and select the best" is repeated across the specialist literature; no surfaced production-document anchor confirms it.


===Pleiade===
===Pleiade===
 
The Pleiade is a seven-star diamond pattern named for the Pleiades. Specialist sources describe it as an uncatalogued early-1980s option, but do not establish a production total.
Seven-star diamond pattern referencing the Pleiades myth. Introduced as an uncatalogued option in the early 1980s with a documented factory surcharge of approximately 7,000 CHF over the standard dial price. Catalogue entry sparse — "uncatalogued option" per the specialist literature, with collectors flagging the configuration as the tiniest fraction of production. 1987 Pleiade 18038 documented at USD 35,000 asking.


===Mother-of-pearl===
===Mother-of-pearl===
 
Mother-of-pearl dials appear from approximately 1980, often paired with diamond hour markers. White gold (18039) carries them more frequently than yellow gold (18038). Aftermarket MOP dials surface in the secondary market; authentication against the factory-original MOP signature is the standard check.
Mother-of-pearl dials appear from approximately 1980, often paired with diamond hour markers. White gold (18039) carries them more frequently than yellow gold (18038). Aftermarket MOP dials surface in the secondary market and require authentication against the factory-original MOP signature.


===Vignette===
===Vignette===
 
Vignette dials, with a centre colour fading to a darker border, appear on the 18038 as a factory variant. They are distinct from sun-faded original dials that mimic the vignette pattern; same-batch documentation is the way to tell them apart.
Vignette dials — centre colour fading to dark border — appear on the 18038 as a factory variant. Distinct from sun-faded original dials that mimic the vignette pattern; same-batch documentation distinguishes.


===Roman "Woman in Red"===
===Roman "Woman in Red"===
 
A red-Roman-numeral 18038 is documented in Pucci Papaleo's ''Day-Date — The Presidential Rolex'' monograph as "Woman in Red": yellow gold case with red Roman numerals on a white-printed ground. Only a few public examples are cited in the sources used here.
Red-Roman-numeral 18038 documented in Pucci Papaleo's ''Day-Date — The Presidential Rolex'' monograph as "Woman in Red". Yellow gold case with red Roman numerals on a white-printed ground. Sub-five-known sub-variant of the standard Roman dial.


===Tritium dial-mark transition===
===Tritium dial-mark transition===
Early 18038 production carries T SWISS T at the bottom of the dial; later production carries T SWISS MADE T. Collectors use the dial mark as the indicator that separates first-half and second-half production examples. VRF thread t=561098 documents the boundary across surfaced cases.


Early 18038 production carries T SWISS T at the bottom of the dial; later production carries T SWISS MADE T. The transition is the dial-mark indicator collectors use to separate first-half and second-half production examples; VRF thread t=561098 documents the boundary across surfaced examples.
<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
Ref 18038 oxblood stella.webp|Oxblood Stella dial
Ref 18038 onyx stone dial.webp|Onyx stone dial
</gallery>


==Case, bezel, crystal, and crown notes==
==Case, bezel, crystal, and crown notes==
The case is 36 mm three-piece Oyster construction, with period examples measured at roughly 12 mm thick and 20 mm lug width. Water resistance is documented as 100 m with a Twinlock crown; the exact rating and seals on a serviced watch should be checked separately.


36mm three-piece Oyster construction. Case thickness approximately 12mm, lug-to-lug 44mm, lug width 20mm. Total bracelet weight approximately 130g. Water resistance 100 metres — first Day-Date to reach this rating, raised from the 1803's 50 metres with the Twinlock screw-down crown introduction.
The inner caseback is stamped with the reference number plus quarter-year Roman-numeral lot codes (e.g. "18038 III.79") that date the caseback's manufacturing lot. The outer caseback is plain gold on civilian production.
 
Inner caseback stamped with the reference number plus quarter-year Roman-numeral lot codes ("18038 III.79" etc.) that date the caseback's manufacturing lot. Outer caseback is plain gold on civilian production.
 
The crystal is sapphire — first Day-Date with sapphire. The acrylic crystal of the 1803 era is gone. Sapphire enables both the thinner case profile and the higher water-resistance rating.


The crown is the Twinlock screw-down. The Triplock crown does not arrive on the Day-Date until later 6-digit production.
The crystal is sapphire, replacing the acrylic used on earlier 1803 examples. The crown is Twinlock; later six-digit Day-Date references introduced Triplock on some configurations.


The fluted bezel on the 18038 is carved from solid 18k yellow gold. The 18028 carries a smooth bezel; the 18048 carries 44 round-brilliant diamonds in a factory diamond bezel; the 18078 carries a bark-finish bezel paired with bark center links on the bracelet. The bezel finish is the cleanest visual diagnostic between the four siblings of the 5-digit Day-Date cluster.
The fluted bezel on the 18038 is carved from solid 18k yellow gold. The 18028 carries a smooth bezel, the 18048 carries 44 round-brilliant diamonds in a factory diamond bezel, and the 18078 carries a bark-finish bezel paired with bark center links on the bracelet. Bezel finish is one useful way to distinguish the four siblings in the 5-digit Day-Date cluster.


The coronet engraving on the case evolves subtly across the 11-year run. Early 18038 production carries an open-base coronet; later production carries a closed-base coronet. The transition year within the 18038 run is not pinned in the surfaced corpus — collectors use the coronet style as a secondary dating diagnostic alongside the dial-mark T SWISS T / T SWISS MADE T transition.
The coronet engraving changes subtly across the eleven-year run. Early 18038 production carries an open-base coronet; later production carries a closed-base coronet. The transition year is not fixed by the cited records, so the coronet style is only a secondary dating clue alongside the T SWISS T / T SWISS MADE T dial-mark transition.


==Bracelet, end-links, clasp==
==Bracelet, end-links, clasp==
The 18038 wears the President bracelet 8385 with 55B end-links and the hidden Crownclasp. Construction is three-piece semicircular: a flat centre link flanked by two semicircular outer links per row, solid 18k gold throughout. The centre link is polished, with brushed (and later polished) outer links. The Crownclasp folds inward and locks beneath the centre link; nothing is visible on the closed bracelet, and the Rolex coronet sits on the clasp cover.


The 18038 wears the President bracelet 8385 with 55B end-links and the hidden Crownclasp. The bracelet construction is three-piece semicircular: a flat centre link flanked by two semicircular outer links per row. Solid 18k gold throughout. Polished centre link with brushed (later polished) outer links. The Crownclasp folds inward and locks beneath the centre link; no visible mechanism on the closed bracelet — the Rolex coronet appears on the clasp cover when the bracelet is closed.
Bracelet stretch can be checked by holding the watch face-down and looking for sag at the link pivots. Because the President bracelet is heavy, pronounced stretch usually points to extended wear or service; the bracelet and clasp should still be assessed as individual components.
 
Stretch is the first visual check on any 18038 bracelet — hold the watch face-down and look at the bracelet edge for sag at the link pivots. Stretched bracelets indicate heavy daily wear or extended service; the President bracelet doesn't take stretch well because the link weight runs heavier than the Oyster's.


Made by Gay Frères through 1998 when Rolex acquired the supplier. Clasp date codes inside the clasp leaf — should roughly match watch-head serial year. Service-replaced bracelets carry later clasp codes.
Clasp date codes date the bracelet component, not the watch head. A service or replacement bracelet can carry a later code, so fitment must be assessed from the watch and bracelet together.


==Special branches==
==Special branches==
===Tiffany & Co. double-signed===
===Tiffany & Co. double-signed===
 
Tiffany double-signed production continues into the 18038 era. Sotheby's Important Watches 2023 lot 89 documented an 18038 Tiffany double-signed example with case R'509'XXX, dated c.1987, on a champagne dial with caliber 3055. Aftermarket and counterfeit Tiffany dials exist. Same-batch documentation, case and movement consistency, and retailer records are useful checks. A second documented example, retailed by Tiffany & Co. and dated c.1979 (case no. 6333874, movement no. 0475122, champagne dial), sold at Bonhams in December 2025; the lot carried a Tiffany pouch, an appraisal letter, and a Rolex service receipt.
Production continues into the 18038 era. Sotheby's Important Watches 2023 lot 89 documented an 18038 Tiffany double-signed example — case R'509'XXX, c. 1987, champagne dial, cal 3055. Tiffany 18038 examples trade at 2-3 times standard equivalents. Counterfeit risk on Tiffany dials is high; same-batch documentation and clasp-code chronology are the authentication tools.


===UAE Armed Forces===
===UAE Armed Forces===
 
Falcon emblem with the UAE flag and seven stars. Documented dials include champagne, silver, and brown, with white examples also reported. The configuration is associated with period diplomatic gifts after UAE independence in 1971; provenance must be checked on the individual watch.
Falcon emblem plus the UAE flag plus seven stars. Documented in champagne, silver, and brown dials, with very-rare white examples. Period diplomatic gifts post-1971 UAE independence. 1978 Rolex Passion Market documented example, 1983 brown Momentum Dubai documented example.


===Omani Khanjar===
===Omani Khanjar===
Curved Omani dagger over crossed swords with a belt: the royal crest of Oman introduced in 1970 by Sultan Qaboos. Documented combinations include champagne dial and white-Stella-Khanjar configurations. Distribution ran through Asprey of London and Khimji Ramdas in Muscat, with examples gifted to British Armed Forces and SAS personnel.


Curved Omani dagger plus crossed swords plus belt. The royal crest of Oman introduced 1970 by Sultan Qaboos. Documented combinations include champagne dial and white-Stella-Khanjar configurations. Distribution through Asprey of London plus Khimji Ramdas in Muscat, distributed as gifts to British Armed Forces and SAS personnel.
Bonhams catalogued a silvered-dial Khanjar 18038 (case no. 5729359, movement no. 0156888) in June 2025 with named provenance from an engineer who worked in Oman under Sultan Qaboos; the auction entry is listed below. A second example pairs a green Khanjar with an orange Stella lacquer dial and was offered by Bonhams in 2020 from the family of Colonel Tony Lewis, DSO, MBE; its auction entry is also listed below.


===Saudi Albilad===
===Saudi Albilad===
 
Arabic Albilad ("country") day disk. The cited records describe it as a Saudi-market option; fitment and originality remain watch-specific.
Arabic Albilad (country) day disk. Stocked as a specialist option through retailers serving the Saudi market.


===Pucci Papaleo "Woman in Red"===
===Pucci Papaleo "Woman in Red"===
 
Roman-numeral 18038 with red Roman numerals, published in Pucci Papaleo's ''Day-Date — The Presidential Rolex'' (Spin Edizioni, 2015). Only a few public examples are cited in the sources used here.
Roman-numeral 18038 with red Roman numerals. Published in ''Day-Date — The Presidential Rolex'' (Spin Edizioni). Sub-five-known sub-variant.


==Auction record==
==Auction record==
{| class="wikitable"
{| class="wikitable"
|-
|-
Line 255: Line 201:
| Sotheby's Watches Online
| Sotheby's Watches Online
| 18038/18000 c.1984 white dial, mvt 0793254, case 8457708
| 18038/18000 c.1984 white dial, mvt 0793254, case 8457708
| estimate USD 7,000–9,000 (catalogue typo — Sotheby's listed 35mm; every other source 36mm)
| estimate USD 7,000–9,000 (the catalogue lists 35mm; standard reference dimensions are 36mm)
|-
| 2020-08
| [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/25956/lot/8/rolex-a-fine-and-rare-18k-gold-automatic-calendar-bracelet-watch-with-orange-lacquered-stella-dial-and-green-khanjar-with-historical-provenance-day-date-ref-18038-circa-1982/ Bonhams]
| orange Stella dial, green Khanjar, c.1982, Colonel Tony Lewis DSO MBE provenance
| hammer GBP 46,000 (est. GBP 25,000–35,000)
|-
| 2025-06
| [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/30667/lot/25/rolex-a-fine-and-very-rare-18k-gold-automatic-calendar-bracelet-watch-with-khanjar-dial-gifted-by-the-sultan-of-oman-and-offered-on-behalf-of-the-family-of-the-original-owner-day-date-ref-18038-circa-1978/ Bonhams]
| Khanjar dial, c.1978, case 5729359, named Omani-service provenance
| hammer GBP 15,000 (est. GBP 15,000–20,000)
|-
| 2025-12
| [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/30832/lot/245/rolex-retailed-by-tiffany-and-co-a-fine-18k-gold-automatic-calendar-bracelet-watch-day-date-ref-18038-c-1979/ Bonhams]
| Tiffany & Co.-retailed, c.1979, case 6333874, champagne dial
| hammer USD 22,000 (est. USD 5,500–6,500)
|-
| 2019-06
| [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/25396/lot/18/rolex-an-18k-gold-automatic-calendar-bracelet-watch-with-diamond-set-aventurine-dial-day-date-ref-18038-circa-1978/ Bonhams]
| diamond-set Aventurine dial, c.1978
| hammer GBP 11,000 (est. GBP 12,000–18,000)
|-
| 2011-06
| [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/19216/lot/86/rolex-a-fine-18k-gold-automatic-center-seconds-bracelet-watch-with-day-and-date-and-gem-set-dialoyster-perpetual-day-date-ref-18038-case-no-5724381-circa-1979/ Bonhams]
| full pavé-diamond dial, diamond bezel, case 5724381, ex-Christie's Geneva 2006 ("Property of a Royal House")
| unsold, estimate USD 18,000–22,000
|-
| 2017-12
| [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/24235/lot/14/rolex-an-18k-gold-automatic-calendar-bracelet-watch-with-tropical-dial-day-date-ref-18038-circa-1978/ Bonhams]
| tropical plum dial, c.1978
| hammer GBP 4,800 (est. GBP 4,000–6,000)
|}
|}


Market bands, 2024-2026:
==Related references==
* [[Reference:18028|Day-Date 18028]]: 1977–1988
* [[Reference:18048|Day-Date 18048]]: 1977–1988
* [[Reference:18078|Day-Date 18078]]: 1977–1988
* [[Reference:19018|Day-Date 19018]]: Oysterquartz President (1977–2001)
* [[Reference:18208|Day-Date 18208]]: 1988–2000
* [[Reference:18238|Day-Date 18238]]: 1988–2000


* '''Standard yellow gold 18038 champagne, box and papers''' — USD 15,000 to 22,000
See also the [[Reference:day-date|Day-Date family index]], [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|bracelet & clasp guide]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial numbers by year]].
* '''Head only''' — USD 13,000
* '''Full set premium''' — 5 to 15 percent over head-and-bracelet
* '''Tiffany double-signed''' — USD 40,000 to 80,000
* '''Omani Khanjar yellow gold''' — USD 40,000 to 50,000
* '''Stella band''' — USD 73,000 to 147,000 depending on colour
* '''Pleiade uncatalogued''' — approximately USD 35,000 documented


==Where the 2026 market sits==
<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
 
Ref 18038 hero.webp|18038 Day-Date 36
The 18038 in 2025–2026 trades across the broadest band of any sapphire-crystal vintage Day-Date. Production-volume yellow-gold examples (silver, champagne, white, black stick or Roman dials) sit USD 8,000 to 14,000 for clean condition with full set. The dial-variant tier runs significantly higher. Stella third-series dials drive the active dealer corpus — turquoise asking USD 147,000, oxblood NOS at USD 125,179 on Chrono24, coral and salmon among the rarest, green in the USD 73,500 band, Middle Eastern-market yellows / pinks / oranges / reds reaching their own premiums. Stern stone dials peak production 1980–1990 and trade by material and case pairing: onyx the most production-stable, lapis lazuli with the gold-pyrite shimmer, malachite (the Day-Date and Datejust only carry it per Fratello), coral. Wood and burl dials (sequoia, mahogany, birch, madrona, walnut) sit in their own micro-tier — Rolex would mill ten wooden dials and select the best per period claim, with S.Song's Burl Wood and the RVM 1981/1982 examples among the documented references. The Pleiade diamond pattern (seven-star reference to the Pleiades myth) ran as an uncatalogued early-1980s option with a documented ~7,000 CHF factory surcharge — the 1987 Pleiade 18038 asked USD 35,000. The factory diamond 18048 and the bark 18078 trade on their own logic. White-gold 18039 / 18049 / 18079 examples carry their own (more subtle) premium. Platinum 18026 is effectively private-market only.
Ref 18038 oxblood stella.webp|Oxblood Stella dial
 
Ref 18038 onyx stone dial.webp|Onyx stone dial
==What to check when buying one==
</gallery>
 
* '''Cal 3055 with single quickset — date only, day still requires running hands.''' The 3055 jumps to 28,800 vph from the 1556's 19,800. The double quickset arrives with the cal 3155 on the 18238 in 1988. Sources that describe the 18038 as having "double quickset" conflate the 3055 with the 3155. A claimed double quickset on a 18038 indicates either a movement transplant or a misidentified reference.
* '''T SWISS T vs T SWISS MADE T marking — two sub-generations within the 11-year run.''' Early 18038 production carries T SWISS T at the bottom of the dial; later production carries T SWISS MADE T. VRF thread t=561098 documents both marks across the production span. Cross-check the marking against the case serial year for originality.
* '''Inside-caseback "18038" reference stamp + quarter-year Roman-numeral lot code.''' Factory-standard. A 18038 case with a non-matching reference stamp or absent lot code is a re-case or frankenwatch flag.
* '''Sapphire crystal — first Day-Date with sapphire.''' Acrylic on a 18038 is a service replacement and is wrong factory-original. The sapphire-crystal era opens with this reference; the 1803 and earlier all run acrylic.
* '''Bezel matches the catalogue: fluted (18038), smooth (18028), gem-set (18048), bark (18078).''' Yellow gold cases. White-gold catalogue equivalents are 18039 / 18049 / 18079. Platinum is the smooth-bezel 18026. A bark-bezel "18038" or a gem-set "18028" is a reference mismatch.
* '''Stella authentication — T SWISS MADE T marking is the 18038 generation tell.''' Stella S.A. of Châtelaine / Geneva supplied lacquered dials to Rolex through the late 1980s. The 18038 generation carries Stella under T SWISS MADE T (the 1803 generation runs T SWISS T). Stella refinishes are common; original lacquer reads even and deep, refinish lacquer often shows colour-density variation.
* '''Stern stone-dial originality.''' Stern Frères / Stern Création supplied stone-cut dials peaking 1980–1990. The 18038 roster runs onyx, lapis lazuli, malachite, tiger's eye, jasper, coral. Cross-check material against documented period-correct supply.
* '''No pink-gold 5-digit single-quickset Day-Date.''' Rolex paused rose-gold production in the 1970s; revival in the 6-digit era with the 118135 / 118235 Everose. Catalogue listings of "18058" or "18068" pink-gold 5-digit Day-Dates are confusion with the 1803 era or the 6-digit successors — no factory production at the 18038 spec.
* '''Pleiade diamond pattern is uncatalogued.''' Seven-star factory-set diamond configuration referencing the Pleiades myth. Early-1980s introduction with the documented ~7,000 CHF factory surcharge. A Pleiade 18038 should carry Rolex paperwork confirming the factory configuration; aftermarket diamond-set 18038s are common and trade well below factory-original.
* '''President 8385 with 55B end-links + hidden Crownclasp.''' The standard 18038 bracelet. Three-piece semi-circular link construction, hollow centre links (the 18238 era moves to solid centre links). Gay Frères-made through 1998 when Rolex acquired the supplier. Clasp date code should roughly match the case serial year.
 
==Sources==


== Sources ==
===Primary and specialist===
===Primary and specialist===
* ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' — Colin A. White, Morning Tundra
* ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' — Colin A. White, Morning Tundra
* [https://mondanibooks.com/rolex-day-date-history/ ''Rolex Day-Date Volume (Mondani Editore)'' — Mondani Family, Guido Mondani Editore]
* [https://mondanibooks.com/rolex-day-date-history/ ''Rolex Day-Date Volume (Mondani Editore)'' — Mondani Family, Guido Mondani Editore]
Line 294: Line 257:
* [https://www.sothebys.com/ Sotheby's editorial, "The Rolex Day-Date: A Complete Collector's Guide", Sotheby's]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/ Sotheby's editorial, "The Rolex Day-Date: A Complete Collector's Guide", Sotheby's]
* [https://revolutionwatch.com/bourn-in-oman-the-rolex-collection/ Daniel Bourn, "Bourn in Oman: The Rolex Collection", Revolution Watches]
* [https://revolutionwatch.com/bourn-in-oman-the-rolex-collection/ Daniel Bourn, "Bourn in Oman: The Rolex Collection", Revolution Watches]
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/30667/lot/25/rolex-a-fine-and-very-rare-18k-gold-automatic-calendar-bracelet-watch-with-khanjar-dial-gifted-by-the-sultan-of-oman-and-offered-on-behalf-of-the-family-of-the-original-owner-day-date-ref-18038-circa-1978/ "Rolex Day-Date ref. 18038, Khanjar dial, circa 1978", Bonhams, June 2025]
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/25956/lot/8/rolex-a-fine-and-rare-18k-gold-automatic-calendar-bracelet-watch-with-orange-lacquered-stella-dial-and-green-khanjar-with-historical-provenance-day-date-ref-18038-circa-1982/ "Rolex Day-Date ref. 18038, orange Stella dial with green Khanjar, circa 1982", Bonhams, August 2020]
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/30832/lot/245/rolex-retailed-by-tiffany-and-co-a-fine-18k-gold-automatic-calendar-bracelet-watch-day-date-ref-18038-c-1979/ "Rolex Day-Date ref. 18038, retailed by Tiffany & Co., circa 1979", Bonhams, December 2025]
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/25396/lot/18/rolex-an-18k-gold-automatic-calendar-bracelet-watch-with-diamond-set-aventurine-dial-day-date-ref-18038-circa-1978/ "Rolex Day-Date ref. 18038, diamond-set Aventurine dial, circa 1978", Bonhams, June 2019]
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/19216/lot/86/rolex-a-fine-18k-gold-automatic-center-seconds-bracelet-watch-with-day-and-date-and-gem-set-dialoyster-perpetual-day-date-ref-18038-case-no-5724381-circa-1979/ "Rolex Day-Date ref. 18038, full pavé-diamond dial, case no. 5724381, circa 1979", Bonhams, June 2011]
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/24235/lot/14/rolex-an-18k-gold-automatic-calendar-bracelet-watch-with-tropical-dial-day-date-ref-18038-circa-1978/ "Rolex Day-Date ref. 18038, tropical plum dial, circa 1978", Bonhams, December 2017]


===Editorial and market===
===Editorial and market===
* [https://italianwatchspotter.com/the-history-of-the-rolex-day-date/?lang=en Italian Watch Spotter editorial, "The History of the Rolex Day-Date", Italian Watch Spotter]
* [https://italianwatchspotter.com/the-history-of-the-rolex-day-date/?lang=en Italian Watch Spotter editorial, "The History of the Rolex Day-Date", Italian Watch Spotter]
* [https://italianwatchspotter.com/watch-guide-rolex-stone-dials/?lang=en Italian Watch Spotter editorial, "Watch Guide: Rolex Stone Dials", Italian Watch Spotter]
* [https://italianwatchspotter.com/watch-guide-rolex-stone-dials/?lang=en Italian Watch Spotter editorial, "Watch Guide: Rolex Stone Dials", Italian Watch Spotter]
Line 306: Line 274:
* [https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/ Hairspring editorial, "Hairspring — Khanjar Oman 1803 White Gold Blue Stella", Hairspring]
* [https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/ Hairspring editorial, "Hairspring — Khanjar Oman 1803 White Gold Blue Stella", Hairspring]
* [https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/ Hairspring editorial, "Hairspring — Coral Stella 1803", Hairspring]
* [https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/ Hairspring editorial, "Hairspring — Coral Stella 1803", Hairspring]


[[Category:Day-Date]]
[[Category:Day-Date]]
[[Category:References]]
[[Category:References]]

Latest revision as of 08:33, 29 September 2026


Day-Date › 18038

Rolex Day-Date 18038 silver dial — first sapphire-crystal Day-Date, cal 3055 with single quickset date. Image via Monochrome.
Rolex Day-Date 18038 silver dial — first sapphire-crystal Day-Date, cal 3055 with single quickset date. Image via Monochrome.

The 18038 is a five-digit Day-Date 36 documented from 1977 through 1988. It introduced sapphire crystal and the single quickset date with caliber 3055, while keeping the 36 mm yellow-gold President case and fluted bezel. Its surviving dials include Stella lacquer, stone, wood, diamond-set, and special-commission examples; each branch needs watch-specific evidence.


Core facts

detail value
reference 18038
family Day-Date
production 1977 to 1988, eleven years
movement caliber 3055, 27 jewels, 28,800 vph, ~48h power reserve, single quickset (date only — day still requires running hands)
case 36mm 18k yellow gold President
crystal sapphire (first Day-Date with sapphire)
bezel fluted (smooth on 18028, factory diamond on 18048, bark on 18078)
crown Twinlock screw-down — 100m water resistance
bracelet President 8385 with 55B end-links, hidden Crownclasp
lume tritium ("T SWISS T" early sub-generation, "T SWISS MADE T" later)
siblings 18028 (smooth bezel), 18048 (diamond bezel, 44 brilliants), 18078 (bark finish), 18039 / 18049 / 18079 white gold, 18026 platinum
predecessor 1803
successor 18238

Where it sits in the line

The 18038 is the sapphire-crystal step in the Day-Date line. The 1803 used acrylic and caliber 1556; the 18038 keeps the 36 mm case, changes to sapphire, and uses caliber 3055 with a quickset date. The 18238 followed in 1988 with caliber 3155 and double quickset.

Caliber-wise the 18038 carries the cal 3055, the third-generation Day-Date movement after the 1055 of the originals era (1956 to 1959) and the 1555 and 1556 of the 1803 era (1959 to 1978). The 3055 inherits the day-and-date complication and adds quickset on the date only; the day still requires running the hands through midnight. Dual quickset, indexed from the crown on both day and date, arrives in 1988 with the cal 3155 on the 18238. Sources occasionally describe the 18038 as "double quickset"; the phrasing conflates the cal 3055 with the cal 3155 / 3156 of later 6-digit references. The 18038 has single quickset.

The five-digit siblings split by bezel finish and case material. The 18028 is yellow gold with a smooth bezel; the 18048 has a factory diamond bezel; and the 18078 uses a bark-finish bezel and bark centre links. White-gold references include 18039, 18049, and 18079. The 18026 is the platinum smooth-bezel reference. Catalogues and surviving watches should be checked together because collector names do not always match factory descriptions.

The sources used here do not list a pink-gold five-digit single-quickset reference. Listings for “18058” or “18068” should be checked against the case and movement because those numbers are easily confused with other Day-Date generations.

Production outline

1977 — sapphire-crystal introduction

The 18038 appears in the 1977 five-digit transition. Sapphire replaces acrylic, caliber 3055 replaces caliber 1556, frequency rises to 28,800 vph, and the quickset date changes the date without a full hand cycle. The documented case specification gives 100 m water resistance with a Twinlock crown.

Serial-year correlation is approximate. The published period charts place 18038 examples across the late 5-million through R-prefix ranges; use the serial-number guide with the caseback and papers rather than treating a range as a reference-specific cutoff.

1980s — dial-variant experimentation

Production-volume dials are the silver, champagne, white, and black stick (and Roman) configurations on 18k yellow gold. From approximately 1980 onward, the dial experimentation that defined the 1803 era continues straight into the sapphire-crystal generation.

The Stella lacquer dials carry forward under T SWISS T and T SWISS MADE T markings. Documented colours include turquoise, oxblood, coral, salmon, green, and Middle Eastern-market yellow, pink, orange, and red examples. The public record does not establish a complete colour sequence or rarity ranking.

Stone-cut dials in the 18038 record include onyx, lapis lazuli, malachite, and coral. The sources establish examples rather than a complete Stern production roster or a production peak.

Wood-marquetry dials surface in the 18038 era, including sequoia, mahogany, birch, madrona, and walnut. The configuration is more often associated with 18078 bark cases, but 18038 fluted examples are also documented. The period claim that Rolex milled ten wooden dials and selected the best is not anchored in a surfaced production document.

The Pleiade is a seven-star diamond pattern named for the Pleiades. Specialist sources describe it as an uncatalogued early-1980s option; the page does not state a surcharge or asking price without a primary document.

Early 18038 production carries T SWISS T at the bottom of the dial; later production carries T SWISS MADE T. VRF thread t=561098 documents both marks across the run, supporting two sub-generations within the eleven-year window rather than a single mark.

1988 — end of production

Production ends as the 18238 enters the line in 1988. Retail figures are market data and are omitted here because the surviving catalogues are not consistent enough to establish a single series.

Movement notes

The cal 3055 is the third-generation Day-Date movement. It measures 28.5mm by 6.6mm and runs 27 jewels (up from the cal 1556's 26) at 28,800 vph (up from 19,800 vph) with roughly 48 hours of power reserve. The architecture is the familiar Rolex specification: free-sprung Microstella balance, Glucydur balance with Microstella weights, Nivarox hairspring, hacking seconds, COSC chronometer certification. The functional change against the 1556 is single quickset on the date: crown position 2 advances the date directly, while the day still requires running the hands through midnight.

The cal 3055 is an earlier member of the automatic Day-Date movement family that includes the later 3155, 3156, and 3255. Service history should be recorded separately from the movement's factory specification.

The 18038 is commonly documented with President bracelet 8385, 55B end-links, and a hidden Crownclasp. Bracelet and clasp fitment still needs to be checked on the individual watch because later replacements are common.

Dial map

Production-volume dials

Silver, champagne, white, and black stick indices on 18k yellow gold are the common 18038 dials. Roman-numeral configurations are also catalogued. Diamond-hour-marker variants appear from the early 1980s, including champagne dials with round and baguette markers. Sapphire accents at 6 and 9 appear on some champagne and black variants. A full pavé-diamond dial with calibre-cut sapphires at 6 and 9 and a diamond-set bezel, case no. 5724381, surfaced at Bonhams with provenance back to Christie's Geneva, 13 November 2006, lot 303, catalogued there as "Property of a Royal House." Its auction entry is listed below.

Tropical dial

A sunburst dial that has shifted to a plum or brown "tropical" tone through UV and chemical aging is documented on the 18038. Bonhams catalogued a c.1978 example as "sunburst tropical plum" with its box, chronometer certificate, and a spare link; the auction entry is listed below.

Stella third-series

The Stella supplier carries from the 1803 era into the sapphire-crystal generation, with T SWISS T and T SWISS MADE T markings across the run. Documented 18038 colours include turquoise, oxblood, coral, salmon, green, and Middle Eastern-market yellow, pink, orange, and red dials. The public examples do not establish a complete roster or a ranking by rarity.

Stone dials

Stone-cut dials in the 18038 record include onyx, lapis lazuli, malachite, coral, and dark blue aventurine. Bonhams catalogued an aventurine example in 2019; its auction result is listed below.

Other stone materials are documented across the broader Day-Date line, but the 18038 examples checked here are concentrated in onyx, lapis, malachite, coral, and aventurine.

Wood / burl

The wood-marquetry revival of the late 1970s and 1980s appears more often on 18078 bark cases, but 18038 examples are documented. The catalogue record includes sequoia, mahogany, birch, madrona, and walnut. The repeated claim that Rolex milled ten wooden dials and selected the best is not anchored in a surfaced production document.

Pleiade

The Pleiade is a seven-star diamond pattern named for the Pleiades. Specialist sources describe it as an uncatalogued early-1980s option, but do not establish a production total.

Mother-of-pearl

Mother-of-pearl dials appear from approximately 1980, often paired with diamond hour markers. White gold (18039) carries them more frequently than yellow gold (18038). Aftermarket MOP dials surface in the secondary market; authentication against the factory-original MOP signature is the standard check.

Vignette

Vignette dials, with a centre colour fading to a darker border, appear on the 18038 as a factory variant. They are distinct from sun-faded original dials that mimic the vignette pattern; same-batch documentation is the way to tell them apart.

Roman "Woman in Red"

A red-Roman-numeral 18038 is documented in Pucci Papaleo's Day-Date — The Presidential Rolex monograph as "Woman in Red": yellow gold case with red Roman numerals on a white-printed ground. Only a few public examples are cited in the sources used here.

Tritium dial-mark transition

Early 18038 production carries T SWISS T at the bottom of the dial; later production carries T SWISS MADE T. Collectors use the dial mark as the indicator that separates first-half and second-half production examples. VRF thread t=561098 documents the boundary across surfaced cases.

  • Oxblood Stella dial
    Oxblood Stella dial
  • Onyx stone dial
    Onyx stone dial

Case, bezel, crystal, and crown notes

The case is 36 mm three-piece Oyster construction, with period examples measured at roughly 12 mm thick and 20 mm lug width. Water resistance is documented as 100 m with a Twinlock crown; the exact rating and seals on a serviced watch should be checked separately.

The inner caseback is stamped with the reference number plus quarter-year Roman-numeral lot codes (e.g. "18038 III.79") that date the caseback's manufacturing lot. The outer caseback is plain gold on civilian production.

The crystal is sapphire, replacing the acrylic used on earlier 1803 examples. The crown is Twinlock; later six-digit Day-Date references introduced Triplock on some configurations.

The fluted bezel on the 18038 is carved from solid 18k yellow gold. The 18028 carries a smooth bezel, the 18048 carries 44 round-brilliant diamonds in a factory diamond bezel, and the 18078 carries a bark-finish bezel paired with bark center links on the bracelet. Bezel finish is one useful way to distinguish the four siblings in the 5-digit Day-Date cluster.

The coronet engraving changes subtly across the eleven-year run. Early 18038 production carries an open-base coronet; later production carries a closed-base coronet. The transition year is not fixed by the cited records, so the coronet style is only a secondary dating clue alongside the T SWISS T / T SWISS MADE T dial-mark transition.

Bracelet, end-links, clasp

The 18038 wears the President bracelet 8385 with 55B end-links and the hidden Crownclasp. Construction is three-piece semicircular: a flat centre link flanked by two semicircular outer links per row, solid 18k gold throughout. The centre link is polished, with brushed (and later polished) outer links. The Crownclasp folds inward and locks beneath the centre link; nothing is visible on the closed bracelet, and the Rolex coronet sits on the clasp cover.

Bracelet stretch can be checked by holding the watch face-down and looking for sag at the link pivots. Because the President bracelet is heavy, pronounced stretch usually points to extended wear or service; the bracelet and clasp should still be assessed as individual components.

Clasp date codes date the bracelet component, not the watch head. A service or replacement bracelet can carry a later code, so fitment must be assessed from the watch and bracelet together.

Special branches

Tiffany & Co. double-signed

Tiffany double-signed production continues into the 18038 era. Sotheby's Important Watches 2023 lot 89 documented an 18038 Tiffany double-signed example with case R'509'XXX, dated c.1987, on a champagne dial with caliber 3055. Aftermarket and counterfeit Tiffany dials exist. Same-batch documentation, case and movement consistency, and retailer records are useful checks. A second documented example, retailed by Tiffany & Co. and dated c.1979 (case no. 6333874, movement no. 0475122, champagne dial), sold at Bonhams in December 2025; the lot carried a Tiffany pouch, an appraisal letter, and a Rolex service receipt.

UAE Armed Forces

Falcon emblem with the UAE flag and seven stars. Documented dials include champagne, silver, and brown, with white examples also reported. The configuration is associated with period diplomatic gifts after UAE independence in 1971; provenance must be checked on the individual watch.

Omani Khanjar

Curved Omani dagger over crossed swords with a belt: the royal crest of Oman introduced in 1970 by Sultan Qaboos. Documented combinations include champagne dial and white-Stella-Khanjar configurations. Distribution ran through Asprey of London and Khimji Ramdas in Muscat, with examples gifted to British Armed Forces and SAS personnel.

Bonhams catalogued a silvered-dial Khanjar 18038 (case no. 5729359, movement no. 0156888) in June 2025 with named provenance from an engineer who worked in Oman under Sultan Qaboos; the auction entry is listed below. A second example pairs a green Khanjar with an orange Stella lacquer dial and was offered by Bonhams in 2020 from the family of Colonel Tony Lewis, DSO, MBE; its auction entry is also listed below.

Saudi Albilad

Arabic Albilad ("country") day disk. The cited records describe it as a Saudi-market option; fitment and originality remain watch-specific.

Pucci Papaleo "Woman in Red"

Roman-numeral 18038 with red Roman numerals, published in Pucci Papaleo's Day-Date — The Presidential Rolex (Spin Edizioni, 2015). Only a few public examples are cited in the sources used here.

Auction record

date house configuration result
2023-06 Sotheby's Important Watches lot 89 18038 Tiffany & Co. double-signed c.1987, case R'509'XXX, champagne, cal 3055 estimate USD 30,000–50,000
various Phillips Geneva 18038 yellow gold 1984 production-volume just over USD 40,000
2020 Sotheby's Watches Online 18038/18000 c.1984 white dial, mvt 0793254, case 8457708 estimate USD 7,000–9,000 (the catalogue lists 35mm; standard reference dimensions are 36mm)
2020-08 Bonhams orange Stella dial, green Khanjar, c.1982, Colonel Tony Lewis DSO MBE provenance hammer GBP 46,000 (est. GBP 25,000–35,000)
2025-06 Bonhams Khanjar dial, c.1978, case 5729359, named Omani-service provenance hammer GBP 15,000 (est. GBP 15,000–20,000)
2025-12 Bonhams Tiffany & Co.-retailed, c.1979, case 6333874, champagne dial hammer USD 22,000 (est. USD 5,500–6,500)
2019-06 Bonhams diamond-set Aventurine dial, c.1978 hammer GBP 11,000 (est. GBP 12,000–18,000)
2011-06 Bonhams full pavé-diamond dial, diamond bezel, case 5724381, ex-Christie's Geneva 2006 ("Property of a Royal House") unsold, estimate USD 18,000–22,000
2017-12 Bonhams tropical plum dial, c.1978 hammer GBP 4,800 (est. GBP 4,000–6,000)

Related references

See also the Day-Date family index, movement reference, bracelet & clasp guide, and serial numbers by year.

  • 18038 Day-Date 36
    18038 Day-Date 36
  • Oxblood Stella dial
    Oxblood Stella dial
  • Onyx stone dial
    Onyx stone dial

Sources

Primary and specialist

Editorial and market

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