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Add Air-King bracelet membership to 6635 / 7205 / 7835 / 78350; add new end-link entries 57 / 357 / 557 / 557B for the Air-King 19mm lug-width line (cross-fits with Explorer 1016 on the 357 / Oyster Perpetual 1002 across the run)
Audit: clarify 1501 caliber evidence and documented 7205/60 pairing
 
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{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex Bracelet Reference}}
{{#seo:
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Bracelet Reference Guide — Bracelets, End Links, Clasps, Link Types
|title=Rolex Bracelet & Clasp Guide — Identify Oyster, Jubilee & President | Rolexopedia
|description=Cross-family Rolex bracelet reference: every Oyster, Jubilee, and President bracelet ref the project documents, with end-link compatibility, clasp generations, the Millenary date-code key, and link-construction families.
|description=Cross-family Rolex bracelet reference: every Oyster, Jubilee, and President bracelet ref the project documents, with end-link compatibility, clasp generations, the clasp date-code key, and link-construction families.
|keywords=Rolex bracelet, Oyster bracelet, Jubilee bracelet, end link, Oysterlock, Glidelock, Easylink, clasp date code, 78360, 78390, 78490, 93150, bracelet reference guide
|keywords=Rolex bracelet, Oyster bracelet, Jubilee bracelet, end link, Oysterlock, Glidelock, Easylink, clasp date code, 78360, 78390, 78490, 93150, bracelet reference guide
|type=article
|type=Article
}}
}}


<small>[[Main Page]] -> '''Bracelets, End Links, Clasps, Link Types'''</small>
<small>[[Main Page]] › '''Bracelets, End Links, Clasps, Link Types'''</small>


Cross-family bracelet decoder for the project: Oyster, Jubilee, and President bracelet refs, the end links that pair with them, the clasp generations, and the five link-construction families. The questions a collector asks of a vintage Rolex bracelet are always the same four: what is it, what end links fit, what year does the clasp code suggest, and is it original, period-correct, or a later service replacement.
This guide identifies Oyster, Jubilee and President bracelets, their end links and clasp markings. Use it to compare a bracelet with the documented fittings for a watch reference.
Each table row links to a photographed component; the galleries below keep a larger view and show the markings or construction where the source image allows it.


A clasp code dates the bracelet, not the watch head. The pairings below describe original-equipment fitment unless noted otherwise.
A clasp code dates the bracelet; the case has its own [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial-number dating]]. Parts sheets and auction catalogues show documented fittings. Establishing original delivery requires evidence from the individual watch.
 
A matching bracelet number is not enough by itself: end-link shape, lug width, clasp construction, case reference and service history all matter. The tables below record documented pairings rather than a universal compatibility guarantee.
 
== Quick jump ==
 
<div class="rp-index">
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Bracelet refs</div><div class="rp-chips">[[#bracelet-7206|7206]] [[#bracelet-78360|78360]] [[#bracelet-78390|78390]] [[#bracelet-93150|93150]] [[#bracelet-97200|97200]] [[#bracelet-9315|9315]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">End links</div><div class="rp-chips">[[#end-link-503|503]] [[#end-link-580|580]] [[#end-link-557|557]] [[#end-link-integral-modern|integral modern]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Clasps</div><div class="rp-chips">[[#clasp-oysterlock-vintage|Oysterlock vintage]] [[#clasp-oysterlock-modern|Oysterlock modern]] [[#clasp-glidelock|Glidelock]] [[#clasp-easylink|Easylink]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Link types</div><div class="rp-chips">[[#link-type-rivet|rivet]] [[#link-type-folded|folded]] [[#link-type-solid|solid]] [[#link-type-oyster|Oyster]] [[#link-type-jubilee|Jubilee]] [[#link-type-president|President]]</div></div>
</div>


== Bracelets by reference ==
== Bracelets by reference ==


The table covers every Oyster-line bracelet ref tracked in the per-family research. Sub-variants appear in the Notes column rather than as separate rows.
Dates below come from dated parts sheets or individual records, so they describe documented examples rather than complete production runs. Parts sheets identify components; auction catalogues record the bracelet fitted when a watch was offered. An individual watch needs its own evidence for original delivery.


{| class="wikitable sortable"
{| class="wikitable sortable"
! Ref !! Name !! Years !! Link type !! End-link compatibility !! Families fitted !! Notes
! Ref !! Name !! Period / evidence !! Link type !! End links !! Documented applications !! Notes !! Image
|-
|-
| <span id="bracelet-6635"></span>'''6635''' || Oyster rivet, 19mm (early Cosmograph) || 1955–1962 || Rivet || 271 (Daytona) / 57 (Air-King) || Daytona, Air-King, Oyster Perpetual || Pre-Cosmograph rivet for the chronograph 6234 / 6238 era. Largely supplanted by 7205 by the 6239 launch.
| <span id="bracelet-6635"></span>'''6635''' || Oyster stretch rivet, 19mm || Vintage || Stretch rivet || 57; check individual fitting || Chronographs, Air-King || The links expand; the 7205 uses fixed links. || [[File:Bracelet 6635.webp|120x80px|alt=Rolex 6635 bracelet]]
|-
|-
| <span id="bracelet-7205"></span>'''7205''' || Oyster rivet, 19mm || 1958–1969 || Rivet || 271 (Daytona) / 57 / 357 (Air-King) || Daytona, Air-King, Oyster Perpetual|| 19mm sport / Air-King / Precision rivet bracelet. The 20mm Sport-model sibling is 7206. US-market C&I (Connecticut) made an unmarked-end-link 19mm rivet analogue 1959–1979; not a Rolex part.
| <span id="bracelet-7205"></span>'''7205''' || Oyster rivet, 19mm || Vintage || Rivet || 271; 57 / 357 on documented Air-Kings; no. 60 recorded on one 1501 lot || Daytona, Air-King; 1501 auction example || Christie's catalogues a circa-1970 ref. 1501 with a 7205 bracelet and no. 60 end links. This is one offered-watch configuration; its original delivery is unverified. The 7206 is the 20mm counterpart. A US-made C&I bracelet requires separate identification. || [[File:Bracelet 7205.webp|120x80px|alt=Rolex 7205 bracelet]]
|-
|-
| <span id="bracelet-7206"></span>'''7206''' || Oyster rivet, 20mm || 1958–1969 || Rivet || 58, 60, 80 || Submariner, GMT-Master, Explorer || Two sub-generations: early small rivets (1958–early 60s) shifting to larger rivets in the mid-60s. End-link 80 is the 5513-era stamp; 58 / 60 carry on earlier small-crown / 1960 holdovers.
| <span id="bracelet-7206"></span>'''7206''' || Oyster rivet, 20mm || Vintage || Rivet || 58, 60, 80; application varies || Submariner, GMT-Master, Explorer || Compare end-link shape and case reference. The number alone does not establish original delivery. || [[File:Bracelet 7206.webp|120x80px|alt=Rolex 7206 bracelet]]
|-
|-
| <span id="bracelet-9315"></span>'''9315''' || Oyster rivet, 20mm (early Sport-model) || 1953–1958 || Rivet || 58, 60 || Submariner, Explorer || Earliest Oyster rivet for the Sport-model line. Pre-7206 generation, lighter gauge.
| <span id="bracelet-72400"></span>'''72400''' || Oyster bracelet, 20mm || Listed for 116400 in Rolex USA 2011 price list || Three-piece || Not specified in cited list || Milgauss 116400 || The list identifies the bracelet/reference pairing, not original delivery on an individual watch. || [[File:Bracelet 72400.webp|120x80px|alt=Rolex 72400 bracelet]]
|-
|-
| <span id="bracelet-7835"></span>'''7835''' || Oyster folded link, 19mm || 1969–1976 || Folded || 271 (Daytona) / 357 (Air-King / Explorer 1016) || Daytona, Air-King, Explorer|| Folded-link successor to 7205 on the 19mm Daytona case. Some aggregator tables show "771" — propagated OCR error of "271"; independent dealer photos only ever stamp 271.
| <span id="bracelet-9315"></span>'''9315''' || Oyster folded link, 20mm || Listed in Rolex parts sheet, 1985 || Folded || 280 / 285 fixed; 380 / 385 removable || Submariner, Sea-Dweller || Rolex sheet 321-6 shows the folded-link construction and alternative end fittings. || [[File:Bracelet 9315.webp|120x80px|alt=Rolex 9315 bracelet]]
|-
|-
| <span id="bracelet-7836"></span>'''7836''' || Oyster folded link, 20mm || 1969–1976 || Folded || 380, 380B || Submariner, GMT-Master, Explorer || 20mm Sport-model sibling of 7835. Documented through five-digit transitional production prior to the solid-link 93150 generation.
| <span id="bracelet-7835"></span>'''7835''' || Oyster folded link, 19mm || Vintage || Folded || 271; 357 on documented Air-Kings || Daytona, Air-King || For 20mm cases, compare the wider bracelet references and inspect the end-link stamp. || [[File:Bracelet 7835.webp|120x80px|alt=Rolex 7835 bracelet]]
|-
|-
| <span id="bracelet-78350"></span>'''78350''' || Oyster folded link, 19mm / 20mm || 1976–1989 || Folded → solid (78350A) || 571, 380 (Daytona/Submariner) / 557 / 557B (Air-King) || Daytona, Submariner, Air-King || Late folded generation; documented as 78350-17 and 78350-19 width variants on the Millenary spec sheets. Substituted on later 6263 / 6265 production where original 7835 had failed.
| <span id="bracelet-7836"></span>'''7836''' || Oyster folded link, 20mm || Vintage; parts shared in 1985 sheet || Folded || 380 || GMT-Master, Explorer || Rolex sheet 321-6 identifies parts shared with the 9315. Sharing parts does not make the two bracelet references interchangeable. || [[File:Bracelet 7836.webp|120x80px|alt=Rolex 7836 bracelet]]
|-
|-
| <span id="bracelet-78360"></span>'''78360''' || Oyster solid link, 20mm (full matte) || 1976–1993 || Solid || 503, 580 || Daytona, Submariner, GMT-Master, Explorer || First solid-link Oyster, brushed throughout. The 78360 → 78390 cutover on the Daytona 16520 sits in a 1991–1993 band: chrono-shop's archived 16520 listing places 78390 production start at 1991, the Blackbird Watch Manual at 1993.
| <span id="bracelet-78350"></span>'''78350''' || Oyster solid link, 19mm || Listed in Rolex parts sheet, 1985 || Solid || 557, 571 || Daytona, Air-King || Sheet 322-8 specifies the 78350-19 and its steel end links. A separate 17mm version exists. || [[File:Bracelet 78350.webp|120x80px|alt=Rolex 78350 bracelet]]
|-
|-
| <span id="bracelet-78390"></span>'''78390''' || Oyster solid link, 20mm (polished centre) || 1991–1998 || Solid || 503B || Daytona, Submariner || Brushed outer, polished centre — the visual upgrade from 78360. Late production carries a short flip-lock clasp blade. The "B" suffix on end-link 503B denotes the matching polished middle piece.
| <span id="bracelet-78360"></span>'''78360''' || Oyster solid link, 20mm || 1970s onward; reference-dependent || Solid || 503 on 16520; 580 on other documented fittings || Daytona, GMT-Master, Explorer || The Daytona later changed to polished-centre bracelets. That change does not date the end of all 78360 production. || [[File:Bracelet 78360.webp|120x80px|alt=Rolex 78360 bracelet]]
|-
|-
| <span id="bracelet-78390A"></span>'''78390A''' || Oyster solid link, 20mm with SEL || 1997–2000 || Solid || 503B || Daytona || Bridge generation between separable-end-link 78390 and machined SEL 78490. Documented on late 16520 U / A / P-serial production.
| <span id="bracelet-78390"></span>'''78390''' || Oyster solid link, 20mm || Middle part of the 16520 run || Solid || 503B || Daytona || Polished centre links distinguish it from the brushed 78360. The Blackbird Watch Manual describes the 16520 progression. || [[File:Bracelet 78390.webp|120x80px|alt=Rolex 78390 bracelet]]
|-
|-
| <span id="bracelet-78490"></span>'''78490''' || Oyster solid link with SEL, 20mm || 2000–2010s || Solid || 501B || Daytona, Submariner || Full SEL, machined links, Easylink 5mm comfort extension introduced mid-production. The 116520 bracelet ref is contested: Boettcher, watch-collector.co.uk, and the Blackbird Watch Manual all attest 78490; a handful of aggregator tables list 78690, which other primary sources tie to the Explorer 14270. Treat 78490 as the working reading pending a Rolex catalog or 116520 caseback paper.
| <span id="bracelet-78390A"></span>'''78390A''' || Oyster solid link with solid end links, 20mm || Late 16520 production || Solid || Solid end links || Daytona || Distinguish the solid end links from the separate hollow 503B fittings of the 78390. || [[File:Bracelet 78390A.webp|120x80px|alt=Rolex 78390A bracelet]]
|-
|-
| <span id="bracelet-78690"></span>'''78690''' || Oyster SEL, 20mm (Explorer-fitment) || 1990–2000s || Solid || 558, 558B || Explorer || Documented as the Explorer 14270 / 114270 SEL bracelet. Not a Daytona fitment despite older aggregator listings cross-referencing it to the 116520 — see the 78490 row for the dispute.
| <span id="bracelet-78490"></span>'''78490''' || Oyster with solid end links, 20mm || 116520 generation || Solid || Solid end links || Daytona 116520 || Phillips lot 202605 records a 116520 with a clasp stamped 78490 and an April 2006 guarantee. The 78690 belongs to a different documented application. || [[File:Bracelet 78490.webp|120x80px|alt=Rolex 78490 bracelet]]
|-
|-
| <span id="bracelet-78790"></span>'''78790''' || Oyster SEL, 20mm (Datejust / GMT / Explorer fitment) || 1990s–2000s || Solid || 558 || Explorer, GMT-Master || Sister bracelet to 78690 fitted across non-Daytona Sport-model 20mm cases of the same era. No documented Daytona application.
| <span id="bracelet-78690"></span>'''78690''' || Oyster with solid end links, 20mm || 114270 generation || Solid || Solid end links || Explorer 114270 || Phillips Hong Kong 2022 lot 8012 records 78690 on a 114270 with a November 2010 guarantee. || [[File:Bracelet 78690.webp|120x80px|alt=Rolex 78690 bracelet]]
|-
|-
| <span id="bracelet-93150"></span>'''93150''' || Oyster solid link, 20mm (Submariner / GMT / Sea-Dweller) || 1976–1990 || Solid || 580, 585 || Submariner, GMT-Master || Heavier solid-link generation for Sport-model 20mm cases. Distinct from 78360 in link gauge and end-link family. No documented Daytona OE fitment.
| <span id="bracelet-78790"></span>'''78790''' || Oyster, 20mm || 1990s–2000s; reference-dependent || Solid || Hollow end links; check watch reference || GMT-Master, Explorer || Distinguish 78790 from 78790A, the version with solid end links. || [[File:Bracelet 78790.webp|120x80px|alt=Rolex 78790 bracelet]]
|-
|-
| <span id="bracelet-78240"></span>'''78240''' || Jubilee, 20mm (five-link, smaller) || 1976–2000s || Jubilee || 455 || Submariner, GMT-Master, Oyster Perpetual || Cross-fitted Datejust 36mm, Submariner Rolesor, and Pepsi GMT-Master 16700 / 16710. Original Jubilee fitment for the 16710.
| <span id="bracelet-93150"></span>'''93150''' || Oyster solid link, 20mm || Listed in 1985; continued into later references || Solid || 501, 580, 585, 593 in the 1985 sheet || Submariner, Sea-Dweller || Rolex sheet 323-3 separates steel 93150 fittings from Rolesor 93153 fittings. It does not establish a universal case pairing or a 1990 end date. || [[File:Bracelet 93150.webp|120x80px|alt=Rolex 93150 bracelet]]
|-
|-
| <span id="bracelet-62510H"></span>'''62510H''' || Jubilee with Oysterclasp, 20mm || 1991–2007 || Jubilee || 455 || GMT-Master || Jubilee link construction with the heavier Oysterclasp body. Sometimes documented as 62510D / 62510M for parallel-era variants per the Millenary Watches Rolex spec sheets; the letter suffix marks a hollow-vs-solid generation.
| <span id="bracelet-62510H"></span>'''62510H''' || Jubilee, 20mm, steel || Listed in Rolex parts sheet, 1985 || Jubilee || 502, 550, 555; 502B on the cited GMT lot || Datejust, GMT-Master || Sheet 322-4 distinguishes steel 62510H from Rolesor 62523H. Phillips records a 62510H with 502B end links on a 1675. That auction pairing does not prove original delivery. || [[File:Bracelet 62510H.webp|120x80px|alt=Rolex 62510H bracelet]]
|-
|-
| <span id="bracelet-93250"></span>'''93250''' || Oyster solid link, 20mm (steel / yellow gold) || 1980–1990 || Solid || 501 || Submariner, GMT-Master || Two-tone Rolesor solid link. Replaced by 78363 in the SEL transition.
| <span id="bracelet-93250"></span>'''93250''' || Oyster with solid end links, 20mm, steel || 16610 generation || Solid || 801 on the cited example || Submariner 16610 || Phillips lot 146024 records a steel 16610 with 93250, 801 end links and a DT3 clasp. It is not a two-tone predecessor of 78363. || [[File:Bracelet 93250.webp|120x80px|alt=Rolex 93250 bracelet]]
|-
|-
| <span id="bracelet-78363"></span>'''78363''' || Oyster solid link with SEL, 20mm (steel / yellow gold) || 1991–2000s || Solid || 501, 501B || Daytona, Submariner, GMT-Master || Two-tone SEL successor to 93250. The Daytona Rolesor (16523) bracelet ref through the cutover to 78393. The 78363 → 78393 transition year on the 16523 is not directly attested; the 16523 serial table inherits the cutover from the 16520 78360 → 78390 mark.
| <span id="bracelet-78363"></span>'''78363''' || Oyster, 20mm, steel and yellow gold || Five-digit generation || Solid || Hollow end links; check exact fitting || Daytona 16523, GMT-Master || The 78363 is the steel-and-gold Daytona bracelet, separate from the steel Submariner 93250. The later polished-centre Daytona bracelet is 78393; its timing does not date the 78363 changeover. || [[File:Bracelet 78363.webp|120x80px|alt=Rolex 78363 bracelet]]
|-
|-
| <span id="bracelet-8385"></span>'''8385''' || President, 20mm 18k yellow gold || 1970s onward || President || 455 || Oyster Perpetual || Designed for Day-Date 18038. No documented Daytona application — yellow gold Daytonas (6263YG, 6265YG, 16518, 16528) shipped on the 18k yellow gold version of the Oyster.
| <span id="bracelet-8385"></span>'''8385''' || President, 20mm, gold || Vintage Day-Date generation || President || Check the individual bracelet || Day-Date || President end fittings need their own identification; 455 appears in the Rolex sheet for Rolesor Jubilee 62523H. || [[File:Bracelet 8385.webp|120x80px|alt=Rolex 8385 bracelet]]
|-
|-
| <span id="bracelet-97200"></span>'''97200''' || Oyster solid link, 20mm (modern Sport-model) || 2003–present || Oyster || integral SEL || Submariner, GMT-Master || Modern Oysterclasp with Easylink across every fitment. Glidelock on Submariner only; the GMT-Master line never adopted Glidelock. The Daytona 116500LN / 126500LN ships on a 97200-derivative Oyster with Easylink only.
| <span id="bracelet-78668"></span>'''78668''' || Oyster solid link, 20mm (18k yellow gold) || 1988–~1994 || Solid || 103 || Daytona || The gold Daytona 16528 bracelet through the first half of the run, with a deployant clasp and no flip-lock. Not a gold casting of the steel 78360 and it does not share that part number: Christie’s catalogues ref. 16528 case R985336 with "deployant clasp stamped 78668, endlinks stamped 103", and Antiquorum records 78668 with an M12 clasp on case R985236. Clasp codes observed are M-series, 1988. An inferred "78368" circulated in older scaffolds and is attested nowhere. || [[File:Bracelet 78668.webp|120x80px|alt=Rolex 78668 bracelet]]
|-
|-
| <span id="bracelet-97203"></span>'''97203''' || Oyster solid link, 20mm (steel / yellow gold) || 2003–present || Oyster || integral SEL || Submariner, GMT-Master || Modern Rolesor Sport-model. Easylink on every fitment; Glidelock on Submariner Rolesor variants only.
| <span id="bracelet-78398"></span>'''78398''' || Oyster solid link, 20mm (18k yellow gold, later run) || ~1995–2000 || Solid || 193 || Daytona || Successor to 78668 on the gold 16528 case. Phillips catalogues ref. 16528 case X435057 with the bracelet "stamped '193' to the endlinks" and the clasp "stamped '78398' and 'T12'". T12 (1995) is the earliest documented 78398 code while 78668 still appears on 1993-era clasps, so the changeover sits in a loose 1993–1995 band rather than on the steel 78360 → 78390 line. That Phillips bracelet post-dates its 1991 X-serial case, a reminder that the clasp code dates the bracelet only. || [[File:Bracelet 78398.webp|120x80px|alt=Rolex 78398 bracelet]]
|-
|-
| <span id="bracelet-97208"></span>'''97208''' || Oyster solid link, 20mm (18k yellow gold) || 2003–present || Oyster || integral SEL || Submariner, GMT-Master || Yellow gold modern Sport-model bracelet. Heavier than 97200 by gold density.
| <span id="bracelet-97200"></span>'''97200''' || Oyster, 20mm, steel || 40mm ceramic Submariner generation || Solid || Solid end links || Submariner 116610LN / 116610LV || Glidelock clasp. Phillips lot 232849 documents 97200 on a 116610LN. Other watch families and the later 41mm Submariner use different bracelet references. || [[File:Bracelet 97200.webp|120x80px|alt=Rolex 97200 bracelet]]
|-
|-
| <span id="bracelet-97209"></span>'''97209''' || Oyster solid link, 20mm (18k white gold) || 2014–present || Oyster || integral SEL || Submariner, GMT-Master || Premium-tier white gold Sport-model bracelet. Same Oyster three-link geometry as 97200 / 97203 / 97208 in different alloy.
| <span id="bracelet-97203"></span>'''97203''' || Oyster, 20mm, steel and yellow gold || 40mm ceramic Submariner generation || Solid || Solid end links || Submariner 116613 || Glidelock clasp. Check the exact bracelet number when comparing later 41mm references. || [[File:Bracelet 97203.webp|120x80px|alt=Rolex 97203 bracelet]]
|-
| <span id="bracelet-97208"></span>'''97208''' || Oyster, 20mm, yellow gold || 40mm ceramic Submariner generation || Solid || Solid end links || Submariner 116618 || Lepage records bracelet 97208 on its photographed 116618LB. || [[File:Bracelet 97208.webp|120x80px|alt=Rolex 97208 bracelet]]
|-
| <span id="bracelet-97209"></span>'''97209''' || Oyster, 20mm, white gold || 40mm ceramic Submariner generation || Solid || Solid end links || Submariner 116619 || Gaston & Sheehan lot 75 records bracelet 97209 on a white-gold 116619. || [[File:Bracelet 97209.webp|120x80px|alt=Rolex 97209 bracelet]]
|}
|}


== End links ==
== End links ==


End links sit between the bracelet and the case lugs. On HEL (hollow end link) generations through the late 1990s, the end-link reference number is stamped on the underside of the end link itself. SEL (solid end link) generations from the late 1990s onward stamp a date code, a part number, and the Rolex coronet into the underside; the full bracelet SKU lives on the bracelet, not the end link.
End links connect the bracelet to the case lugs. Match their shape and markings to the bracelet and case reference. Read letter suffixes against dated parts sheets and pictured examples; they do not encode finish or construction consistently. The table gives documented pairings, not a complete fitment chart.


{| class="wikitable sortable"
{| class="wikitable sortable"
! Ref !! Bracelets it fits !! Case lugs (families / refs) !! SEL or HEL !! Year cutover !! Notes
! Ref !! Bracelet !! Case application !! Construction !! Evidence !! Notes !! Image
|-
| <span id="end-link-58"></span>'''58''' || 9315, 7206 || Submariner 6204 / 6205 / 6536 / 6536-1 / 6538; Explorer 6150 / 6350 / 6610 || HEL || late 1950s || Earliest-generation 20mm Sport-model end link.
|-
| <span id="end-link-60"></span>'''60''' || 9315, 7206 || Submariner 5508 / 5510 / 5512; Explorer 6610 / 1016 || HEL || ~1960 || Second-generation small-crown / early five-digit Sport-model end link.
|-
| <span id="end-link-80"></span>'''80''' || 7206 || Submariner 5512 / 5513 / 1680; Explorer 1016 || HEL || ~1969 || Definitive 5513-era 7206 rivet end-link stamp per the Field Manual.
|-
| <span id="end-link-271"></span>'''271''' || 7205, 7835, 6635 || Daytona 6238 / 6239 / 6240 / 6241 / 6262 / 6263 / 6264 / 6265; Oyster Perpetual 1002 / 1007 / 5500 || HEL || ~early 1980s || The "771" code that appears in some chrono-shop and watch-collector Daytona rows is a propagated OCR / copy-paste error of "271"; independent dealer photos only ever stamp 271.
|-
| <span id="end-link-379"></span>'''379''' || 62510H, 78240 || Oyster Perpetual 1601 / 16014 / 16030 || HEL || late 1970s || Jubilee end link for 19mm Datejust 1601 / Air-King fitments. Not documented on Daytona.
|-
| <span id="end-link-380"></span>'''380''' || 7836, 78350 || Submariner 5512 / 5513 / 1680; GMT-Master 1675; Explorer 1016 / 1655 || HEL || ~1976 || Folded-bracelet end link for the 20mm Sport-model line. Predates the solid 78360 / 503 family.
|-
| <span id="end-link-380B"></span>'''380B''' || 7836 || Submariner 5513 / 1680 || HEL || ~1976 || "B" suffix denotes the polished-middle variant on the late folded generation. Direct attestation thin.
|-
| <span id="end-link-381"></span>'''381''' || 7836 || Oyster Perpetual 1601 / 16014 || HEL || ~1977 || Datejust / Oyster Perpetual 36mm folded end link.
|-
| <span id="end-link-451"></span>'''451''' || 78240 || Oyster Perpetual 68273 || HEL || 1980s || Documented on ladies' President / Datejust bracelets per chrono-shop. Not documented on Daytona.
|-
|-
| <span id="end-link-455"></span>'''455''' || 78240, 62510H, 8385 || GMT-Master 16710 / 16700; Oyster Perpetual 16013 / 18038 || HEL || 1980s–1990s || Jubilee / President end link cross-fitted across Sport-model Jubilee and Day-Date / Datejust 36mm.
| <span id="end-link-58"></span>'''58''' || 7206 || Vintage 20mm Oyster cases || Hollow || Collector reference tables || Check the particular case; not a 9315 end link. || [[File:End link 58.webp|120x80px|alt=Rolex 58 end link]]
|-
|-
| <span id="end-link-471"></span>'''471''' || 78240 || Oyster Perpetual 16030 / 16013 || HEL || 1980s || Datejust 16030 / 16013-era end link. Not documented on Daytona.
| <span id="end-link-60"></span>'''60''' || 7205 (one catalogued ref. 1501); 7206 || One 19mm ref. 1501 example; vintage 20mm Oyster cases || Hollow || Christie's, 2017, lot 14; collector reference tables || Christie's reports 7205/60 on one circa-1970 ref. 1501. Record this as an auctioned configuration; original delivery and broader case fitment remain unverified. || [[File:End link 60.webp|120x80px|alt=Rolex 60 end link]]
|-
|-
| <span id="end-link-501"></span>'''501''' || 78363, 93250 || Daytona 16523; Submariner 16613 / 16803; GMT-Master 16713 || HEL || ~1991 || Two-tone end link family. Pairs with 78363 (steel + yellow gold) and 93250 across the Sport-model Rolesor line.
| <span id="end-link-80"></span>'''80''' || 7206 || Submariner and other documented 20mm cases || Hollow || Collector reference tables || Rivet-bracelet fitting; the stamp is not a production-year code. || [[File:End link 80.webp|120x80px|alt=Rolex 80 end link]]
|-
|-
| <span id="end-link-501B"></span>'''501B''' || 78363, 78490 || Daytona 116520 / 16523; Submariner 16610 / 16613 || SEL || ~2000 || B suffix marks the polished-middle SEL variant. Pairs with 78490 on the steel 116520; with 78363 on the Rolesor 16523.
| <span id="end-link-271"></span>'''271''' || 7205, 7835 || 19mm chronograph cases || Hollow || Collector reference tables || Inspect the actual stamp and compare it with a photograph of the fitting. || [[File:End link 271.webp|120x80px|alt=Rolex 271 end link]]
|-
|-
| <span id="end-link-502B"></span>'''502B''' || 78490 || Submariner 16610LV || SEL || ~2003 || "Kermit" 16610LV-era SEL end link variant. Direct attestation thin.
| <span id="end-link-380"></span>'''380''' || 9315, 7836 || 20mm cases; fitting varies || Hollow || Rolex sheet 321-6, 1985 || Listed with the folded-link 9315; the sheet also identifies shared 7836 parts. || [[File:End link 380.webp|120x80px|alt=Rolex 380 end link]]
|-
|-
| <span id="end-link-503"></span>'''503''' || 78360 || Daytona 16520 || HEL || ~1993 || Full matte (no polished middle); pairs with 78360 on the Daytona 16520 first generation.
| <span id="end-link-455"></span>'''455''' || 62523H || Rolesor Jubilee applications || Hollow || Rolex sheet 322-4, 1985 || The sheet lists 455 with Rolesor 62523H, not steel 62510H or President 8385. || [[File:End link 455.webp|120x80px|alt=Rolex 455 end link]]
|-
|-
| <span id="end-link-503B"></span>'''503B''' || 78390, 78390A || Daytona 16520 || HEL || ~1997 || Polished-middle variant. Pairs with 78390 on the polished-centre Daytona 16520. The 78390A SEL bridge generation reuses the 503B end-link family number.
| <span id="end-link-501"></span>'''501''' || 93150 || Specific case fitment varies || Hollow || Rolex sheet 323-3, 1985 || The 1985 sheet lists 501 with the steel 93150. Match the fitting to the case and bracelet. || [[File:End link 501.webp|120x80px|alt=Rolex 501 end link]]
|-
|-
| <span id="end-link-558"></span>'''558''' || 78690, 78790 || Explorer 14270 / 114270 / 16570 || HEL || ~1998 || Explorer 14270-era end link. The Daytona-vs-Explorer confusion on the 78690 bracelet ref hinges on this end-link family.
| <span id="end-link-501B"></span>'''501B''' || 78360, 93150 || Explorer II 16550 catalogue and fitment-table examples || Hollow || Vintage Rolex Field Manual; Antiquorum example || Published fitment evidence; it does not establish original delivery on every watch. || [[File:End link 501B.webp|120x80px|alt=Rolex 501B end link]]
|-
|-
| <span id="end-link-558B"></span>'''558B''' || 78690 || Explorer 114270 || SEL || ~2001 || Polished-middle SEL Explorer end link.
| <span id="end-link-502B"></span>'''502B''' || 62510H || GMT-Master 1675 in the cited lot || Hollow || Phillips Geneva 2018, lot 19 || Phillips records it on a Jubilee bracelet. The lot includes a 2005 service guarantee, so it documents that watch’s recorded configuration. || [[File:End link 502B.webp|120x80px|alt=Rolex 502B end link]]
|-
|-
| <span id="end-link-571"></span>'''571''' || 78350 || Daytona 6263 / 6265 / 6240 / 6241 || HEL || ~early 1980s || Documented on chrono-shop archived listings as the 78350 end-link stamp.
| <span id="end-link-503"></span>'''503''' || 78360 || Daytona 16520 || Hollow || Blackbird Watch Manual; Field Manual || Brushed-bracelet fitting. || [[File:End link 503.webp|120x80px|alt=Rolex 503 end link]]
|-
|-
| <span id="end-link-580"></span>'''580''' || 93150, 78360 || Submariner 5512 / 5513 / 1680 / 16800 / 168000 / 16610; Explorer 1016; GMT-Master 1675 / 16750 || HEL || ~1990 || Sport-model 20mm solid-link end link, the 93150 generation. Cross-fitted across Submariner / GMT / Explorer 20mm cases. Not documented as Daytona OE.
| <span id="end-link-503B"></span>'''503B''' || 78390 || Daytona 16520 || Hollow || Blackbird Watch Manual; Field Manual || Polished-centre bracelet fitting. Do not treat it as the solid end link of the 78390A. || [[File:End link 503B.webp|120x80px|alt=Rolex 503B end link]]
|-
|-
| <span id="end-link-583"></span>'''583''' || 93150 || Oyster Perpetual 18038 / 18238 || HEL || ~1985 || Likely a Day-Date / Datejust end link. Direct attestation thin; included for completeness.
| <span id="end-link-571"></span>'''571''' || 78350-19 || 19mm Daytona applications || Hollow || Rolex sheet 322-8, 1985 || The parts sheet establishes the bracelet/end-link pairing; an individual case needs its own fitment evidence. || [[File:End link 571.webp|120x80px|alt=Rolex 571 end link]]
|-
|-
| <span id="end-link-585"></span>'''585''' || 93150 || Submariner 16610 / 16800 / 168000 || HEL || ~1990 || RolexHaven groups 580 / 585 as the Sport-model SEL transition end-link family.
| <span id="end-link-580"></span>'''580''' || 93150; also 78360 in collector tables || Submariner; other 20mm applications vary || Hollow || Rolex sheet 323-3; collector reference tables || A solid-link bracelet can still have hollow end links. || [[File:End link 580.webp|120x80px|alt=Rolex 580 end link]]
|-
|-
| <span id="end-link-integral-modern"></span>'''integral SEL''' || 97200, 97203, 97208, 97209 || Submariner 116610LN / 116610LV / 126610LN / 126610LV / 126613LB / 126613LN / 126618LN; GMT-Master 116710LN / 116710BLNR / 126710BLNR / 126710BLRO / 126713GRNR / 126718GRNR / 126719BLRO || SEL || 2003 onward || Modern Sport-model end-links are integral to the first link of the bracelet and not separable. No printed end-link ref number; the bracelet ref carries the full SKU.
| <span id="end-link-585"></span>'''585''' || 93150 || Sea-Dweller || Hollow || Rolex sheet 323-3; collector reference tables || The sheet lists the part; collector reference tables identify the Sea-Dweller application. || [[File:End link 585.webp|120x80px|alt=Rolex 585 end link]]
|-
|-
| <span id="end-link-57"></span>'''57''' || 6635 / 7205 || Air-King 5500 (1957–c.1965), Oyster Perpetual 1002 (early) || HEL || c.1965 (transition to 357) || 19mm rivet end-link for the early Air-King line. Sometimes co-stamped with 357 on transitional bracelets. Phillips Geneva FOUR 2016 lot 22 documents a 1965 5500 with both 57 and 357 stampings present
| <span id="end-link-integral-modern"></span>'''integral-modern''' || Bracelet-specific || Match the exact watch and bracelet references || Solid || Modern reference specifications || Solid end links describe construction rather than a universal part number. Check the exact bracelet and case references, especially across the 40mm and 41mm Submariner generations. || [[File:End link integral-modern.webp|120x80px|alt=Rolex integral-modern end link]]
|-
|-
| <span id="end-link-357"></span>'''357''' || 7205 / 7835 || Air-King 5500 (c.1965–c.1976), Oyster Perpetual 1002, Explorer 1016 (mid-run) || HEL || c.1976 (transition to 557) || 19mm folded-link end-link succeeding the 57. Long-run fitment across the Cal 1520 era 5500 and the mid-production 1016 Explorer
| <span id="end-link-57"></span>'''57''' || Vintage 19mm Oyster || Air-King 5500 in the cited lot || Hollow || Phillips Geneva 2016, lot 22 || The cited catalogue records both 57 and 357 markings on one bracelet; that example alone cannot date a general changeover. || [[File:End link 57.webp|120x80px|alt=Rolex 57 end link]]
|-
|-
| <span id="end-link-557"></span>'''557''' || 78350 || Air-King 5500 (c.1976–1989), Oyster Perpetual 1002 (late) || HEL || c.1989 (replaced by integrated SEL on 14000) || 19mm solid-link end-link for late-run Air-King. The 5500's final factory bracelet configuration
| <span id="end-link-357"></span>'''357''' || Vintage 19mm Oyster || Air-King 5500 in the cited lot || Hollow || Phillips Geneva 2016, lot 22 || The cited Air-King has 19mm lugs; the Explorer 1016 has 20mm lugs. || [[File:End link 357.webp|120x80px|alt=Rolex 357 end link]]
|-
|-
| <span id="end-link-557B"></span>'''557B''' || 78350 || Air-King 5500 (late 1980s) || HEL || c.1989 || B-suffix variant of 557 with refined tolerances. Late-1980s 5500 production
| <span id="end-link-557"></span>'''557''' || 78350-19 || 19mm Air-King applications || Hollow || Rolex sheet 322-8, 1985 || The sheet documents this bracelet and end-link pairing. Any change to solid end links around the 14000 launch needs separate dated evidence. || [[File:End link 557.webp|120x80px|alt=Rolex 557 end link]]
|}
|}


== Clasps ==
== Clasps ==


The clasp is the most date-specific component on a vintage Rolex. Pre-1976 clasps carry quarterly numeric stamps inside the blade (Roman quarter, dot, two-digit year — <code>III.59</code> for third quarter 1959). From 1976 onward Rolex moved to a single-letter or double-letter year code stamped on the underside. The Daytona never adopted Glidelock; the modern 116500LN and 126500LN ship on a 97200-derivative Oyster with Easylink only.
Clasp markings use a separate dating system from case serial numbers. Identify the clasp generation before reading its stamp against a date table.


=== Generation overview ===
=== Generation overview ===
Line 137: Line 136:
! Generation !! Years !! Refs that used it !! Distinguishing features
! Generation !! Years !! Refs that used it !! Distinguishing features
|-
|-
| <span id="clasp-folding-clasp-vintage"></span>Folding clasp (Gay Frères / Rolex stamped) || 1953–1969 || 7205, 7206, 7835, 7836, 9315, 6635 || Folded steel blade, no flip-lock. Big Logo (Gay Frères) on early small-crown and 6238-era; Small Logo (Rolex coronet) from 1958.
| <span id="clasp-folding-clasp-vintage"></span>Vintage folding clasp || Reference-dependent || Rivet and folded Oyster bracelets || Stamped folding blades. Logo and date-stamp variations need comparison with the same bracelet type.
|-
|-
| <span id="clasp-oysterlock-vintage"></span>Oysterlock folded clasp || 1976–~1997 || 78350, 78360, 78390, 93150, 93250 || Folded blade with Oysterlock safety latch; short flip-lock extension introduced ~1983 on Sport models, ~1993 on the Daytona 16520. Single-letter date code on blade (A=1976 onward).
| <span id="clasp-oysterlock-vintage"></span>Vintage safety clasp || Reference-dependent || 93150; later Daytona bracelet variants || The extra safety latch distinguishes it from a plain folding clasp. Not every 78350 or 78360 has one.
|-
|-
| <span id="clasp-oysterlock-modern"></span>Oysterclasp with Easylink (modern) || 2002–present || 78363, 78490, 97200, 97203, 97208, 97209 || Solid machined Oysterclasp body. Easylink 5mm extension lever inside the clasp body. Milled crown stamp on inner clasp from ~2010 on late 116520 and modern Sport-model production.
| <span id="clasp-oysterlock-modern"></span>Modern Oysterlock / Oysterclasp || Reference-dependent || Modern reference-specific bracelets || Oysterlock names a safety clasp; Oysterclasp does not necessarily have that extra latch. Identify the extension mechanism separately.
|-
|-
| <span id="clasp-easylink"></span>Easylink 5mm comfort extension || 2002–present || 78363, 78490, 97200, 97203, 97208, 97209 || Internal lever and keeper inside the Oysterclasp body that drops a 5mm extension link without tools. Standard on every modern Sport-model bracelet and the modern Daytona.
| <span id="clasp-easylink"></span>Easylink || Reference-dependent || Selected Oyster bracelets || A folding comfort link adds approximately 5mm. It is not fitted to every modern sports bracelet.
|-
|-
| <span id="clasp-glidelock"></span>Glidelock micro-extension || 2008–present || 97200, 97203, 97208, 97209 (Submariner only) || Toothed track inside the clasp body, ~20mm of fine adjustment in 2mm steps without tools. Submariner-line only; never adopted on Daytona, GMT-Master, Explorer, or Datejust. The key differentiator between the modern Submariner Oyster and the modern Daytona / GMT-Master Oyster.
| <span id="clasp-glidelock"></span>Glidelock || Reference-dependent || Submariner; selected Oysterflex references || A sliding adjustment system. The Submariner version offers about 20mm in 2mm steps; the current Daytona 126515LN also uses Glidelock with Oysterflex.
|}
|}


Daytona clasp generations follow the bracelet timeline closely. Big Logo Gay Frères belongs to the earliest 6239 and 6240 period, Small Logo runs through the late manual-wind era, Oysterlock covers the 16520 years, and the modern Oysterclasp starts with the 116520. Easylink arrives around 2002.
Daytona clasp changes depend on the bracelet generation. Inspect the bracelet number, folding blade and safety latch together; a logo alone does not establish the year.


=== Date-code key ===
=== Date-code key ===


The matrix below is the collector community's working consensus, derived from observed clasps rather than a Rolex-published table. It agrees across the published collector literature, with minor variation only in the 1995–1998 overlap notation. Outside that window the codes can be trusted.
The dates below follow a widely-used collector chart, also reproduced in ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual''. They are estimates, not Rolex production records. Some mid-1990s letters appear against more than one year. A standalone S can be a 1994 date code; do not call a clasp a service replacement from that letter alone.


{| class="wikitable sortable"
{| class="wikitable sortable"
Line 186: Line 185:
|}
|}


Three rules matter. The 1995–1998 letter window overlaps, so a T, W, U, V, or Z clasp code has to be checked against the watch rather than read alone. An <code>S</code> prefix marks a service-replacement clasp, not the original manufacture year. From mid-2011 the codes randomized and lost any public year value. On SEL bracelets the code moves to the underside of the end link.
Do not read a clasp letter against the case-serial chart. The two systems use some of the same letters for different periods. Later randomized clasp codes have no public year mapping; the bracelet reference and clasp construction remain useful for identification.
 
Earlier clasps commonly use quarter-and-year stamps. For example, <code>I.65</code> reads as the first quarter of 1965. Stamp formats vary; compare the complete marking with documented examples of the same clasp.


== Link construction types ==
== Link construction types ==


Five construction styles cover every bracelet ref in the registry. The taxonomy is geometric. A 1958 7205 rivet and a 2024 97200 Oyster are both three-link bracelets, but the rivet, folded, and solid generations are mechanically different enough that dating and identification turn on which one is in hand. Pearlmaster and Oysterflex are listed for taxonomy completeness.
Rivet, folded and solid describe link construction. Oyster, Jubilee and President describe bracelet designs. Keep the two distinctions separate when identifying a bracelet; an Oyster bracelet can use different construction depending on its period.


{| class="wikitable sortable"
{| class="wikitable sortable"
! Style !! Years !! Identifying features !! Bracelet refs using
! Style !! Years !! Identifying features !! Bracelet refs using
|-
|-
| <span id="link-type-rivet"></span>'''Rivet (hollow)''' || 1940s–1969 || Hollow folded steel links joined with visible rivet heads on the link sides; lighter gauge than later folded or solid generations. || 6635, 7205, 7206, 9315
| <span id="link-type-rivet"></span>'''Rivet''' || Vintage || Rivet heads are visible along the sides. Stretch and fixed-link versions need separate identification. || 6635, 7205, 7206
|-
|-
| <span id="link-type-folded"></span>'''Folded (hollow non-rivet)''' || 1969–1980s || Folded steel construction with no exposed rivet heads; polished outer / brushed centre links visible on most variants; lighter on the wrist than solid-link successors. || 7835, 7836, 78350
| <span id="link-type-folded"></span>'''Folded''' || Vintage || Folded sheet-metal links without exposed side rivets. || 7835, 7836, 9315
|-
|-
| <span id="link-type-solid"></span>'''Solid (machined or stamped solid)''' || 1976–present || Solid steel link bodies, no folded or rivet construction; brushed throughout (78360) or brushed outer / polished centre (78390 onward); SEL introduction ~1997 on Sport models is a sub-generation. || 78360, 78363, 78390, 78390A, 78490, 78690, 78790, 93150, 93250, 97200, 97203, 97208, 97209
| <span id="link-type-solid"></span>'''Solid link''' || Reference-dependent || Solid link bodies; end links can still be hollow. Check centre-link construction separately on precious-metal and Rolesor variants. || 78350, 78360, 78390, 93150, 93250 and later Oyster references
|-
|-
| <span id="link-type-jubilee"></span>'''Jubilee (five-link)''' || 1945–present || Five-link construction — three smaller polished centre links flanked by two larger brushed outer links; smoother on the wrist than three-link Oyster. || 78240, 62510H
| <span id="link-type-jubilee"></span>'''Jubilee''' || From 1945 || Five-piece link design. Construction varies by generation. || 62510H; Rolesor 62523H
|-
|-
| <span id="link-type-oyster"></span>'''Oyster (three-link flat)''' || 1947–present || Three-link construction with flat brushed outer links and a narrower centre; the default Sport-model bracelet across every era from the 1950s on. Modern Oyster carries integral SEL and a machined clasp body. || 97200, 97203, 97208, 97209
| <span id="link-type-oyster"></span>'''Oyster''' || Reference-dependent || Three-piece link design, made in riveted, folded and solid-link versions. || 7206, 7836, 78360, 97200 and others
|-
|-
| <span id="link-type-president"></span>'''President (three-piece semi-circular)''' || 1956–present || Three-piece links with semi-circular polished outer profile; always solid precious metal (yellow, white, or rose gold; platinum). || 8385
| <span id="link-type-president"></span>'''President''' || From 1956 || Three-piece links with a rounded profile, in gold or platinum. Precious-metal content does not mean every vintage link is solid throughout. || 8385 and later President references
|-
|-
| <span id="link-type-pearlmaster"></span>'''Pearlmaster (five-piece rounded)''' || 1992–present || Five-piece links with a rounded profile, gem-set centre and outer; gem-set Datejust / Pearlmaster fitment only. Out of project scope; listed for taxonomy completeness. || (none in scope)
| <span id="link-type-pearlmaster"></span>'''Pearlmaster''' || From 1992 || Five-piece rounded-link design; gem setting depends on the version. || Reference-specific
|-
|-
| <span id="link-type-oysterflex"></span>'''Oysterflex (elastomer over titanium blade)''' || 2015–present || Black FKM elastomer overmolded over a flexible titanium / nickel alloy blade; looks like a rubber strap, mechanically a bracelet. Oysterclasp with Glidelock on Yacht-Master variants; Oysterclasp with Easylink on the ceramic Daytona 116515LN / 116519LN and the white-gold 126506. || (no 7-series ref number; tracked by case reference)
| <span id="link-type-oysterflex"></span>'''Oysterflex''' || From 2015 || Elastomer over flexible metal blades. The extension system depends on the watch: Rolex specifies Glidelock for the current Daytona 126515LN. || Reference-specific
|}
|}
== Component images ==
These photographs show the bracelet and end-link forms listed above. A photograph documents the pictured part; it does not by itself prove original delivery on a particular watch.
=== Bracelet references ===
<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
File:Bracelet 6635.webp|6635 bracelet
File:Bracelet 7205.webp|7205 bracelet
File:Bracelet 7206.webp|7206 bracelet
File:Bracelet 7835.webp|7835 bracelet
File:Bracelet 7836.webp|7836 bracelet
File:Bracelet 78350.webp|78350 bracelet
File:Bracelet 78360.webp|78360 bracelet
File:Bracelet 78390.webp|78390 bracelet
File:Bracelet 78390A.webp|78390A bracelet
File:Bracelet 78490.webp|78490 bracelet
File:Bracelet 78690.webp|78690 bracelet
File:Bracelet 78790.webp|78790 bracelet
File:Bracelet 93150.webp|93150 bracelet
File:Bracelet 93250.webp|93250 bracelet
File:Bracelet 78363.webp|78363 bracelet
File:Bracelet 62510H.webp|62510H bracelet
File:Bracelet 9315.webp|9315 bracelet
File:Bracelet 8385.webp|8385 bracelet
File:Bracelet 78668.webp|78668 bracelet
File:Bracelet 78398.webp|78398 bracelet
File:Bracelet 97200.webp|97200 bracelet; labelled reference-sheet image
File:Bracelet 97203.webp|97203 bracelet
File:Bracelet 97208.webp|97208 bracelet; labelled reference-sheet image
File:Bracelet 97209.webp|97209 bracelet
File:Bracelet 72400.webp|72400 bracelet
</gallery>
=== End-link references ===
<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
File:End link 271.webp|271 end link
File:End link 58.webp|58 end link
File:End link 60.webp|60 end link
File:End link 80.webp|80 end link
File:End link 380.webp|380 end link
File:End link 455.webp|455 end link
File:End link 501.webp|501 end link; identity lead, stamp not legible in this frame
File:End link 501B.webp|501B end link
File:End link 502B.webp|502B end link; stamp visible, OEM status unverified
File:End link 503.webp|503 end link
File:End link 503B.webp|503B end link; identity lead, stamp not legible in this frame
File:End link 580.webp|580 end link
File:End link 585.webp|585 end link
File:End link 571.webp|571 end link; identity lead, stamp not legible in this frame
File:End link integral-modern.webp|integral-modern end link; construction example (pictured part marked 97200)
File:End link 57.webp|57 end link
File:End link 357.webp|357 end link
File:End link 557.webp|557 end link
</gallery>


== Sources ==
== Sources ==


* [https://www.vintagewatchstraps.com/ vintagewatchstraps.com (Boettcher)] — primary source for Oyster case-maker history, Wilsdorf brand-universe research, and bracelet-evolution analysis referenced throughout this page.
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6202981 Christie's: 16528 with bracelet 78668]
* [https://millenarywatches.com/bracelet-and-clasp-codes/ Millenary Watches — Bracelet and Clasp Codes: Complete Resource Guide] — date-code key A=1976 → CP=2011 plus Rolex-published bracelet specification sheets reproduced inline.
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-16528-daytona-lot-340-192 Antiquorum: 16528 with bracelet 78668]
* [https://chrono-shop.net/en/blog/rolex-watch-bracelet-references-numbers--n13 chrono-shop.net — Rolex watch bracelet references numbers] — model-by-model bracelet / end-link compatibility list (contains OCR typos: "73850" for "78350", "771" for "271").
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080219/272 Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo: 16528 with bracelet 78398]
* [https://watch-collector.co.uk/rolex-bracelet-end-link-codes/ watch-collector.co.uk — Rolex Bracelet End Link Codes] — same matrix as chrono-shop in cleaner table form; confirms 78490 (not 78690) as the steel 116520 bracelet.
 
* [https://rolexhaven.com/bracelets.html RolexHaven.com — Sport-model bracelet and end-link reference] — Submariner / GMT / Explorer / Sea-Dweller end-link code table.
 
* [https://www.blackbird-watchmanual.com/manual/icons/the-rolex-daytona-reference-16520/ Blackbird Watch Manual — The Rolex Daytona Reference 16520] — independent confirmation of the 78360 → 78390 → 78390A bracelet progression on the 16520.
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-116613-lot-293-160 Antiquorum New York 2015, lot 160]: 116613 with bracelet 97203 and Glidelock.
* ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' (Colin White) — bracelet / end-link / clasp tables for every five-digit reference.
* [https://www.lepage.fr/fr/23259-montre-rolex-submariner-date-or-jaune-116618lb-automatique-40-mm-stickee-116618lb.html Lepage: photographed 116618LB], bracelet 97208; dealer observation.
* [https://www.txauction.com/auctions/31081/lot/48230-lot-75 Gaston & Sheehan, lot 75]: 116619 with bracelet 97209.
 
 
* [https://millenarywatches.com/bracelet-and-clasp-codes/ Millenary Watches: bracelet and clasp codes], including reproduced Rolex parts sheets 321-6 (9315), 322-8 (78350), 323-3 (93150) and 322-4 (62510H), dated 1985. The sheets identify parts; the site's dating chart is a collector compilation.
* [https://rolexhaven.com/bracelets.html RolexHaven: bracelet and end-link notes]. Collector guide, used for scoped case applications.
* [https://www.blackbird-watchmanual.com/manual/icons/the-rolex-daytona-reference-16520/ Blackbird Watch Manual: Daytona 16520]. Bracelet progression.
* Colin White, ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'', bracelet and clasp tables. Individual auction configurations can include later replacements.
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/202605 Phillips: 116520 with bracelet 78490].
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/HK080422/8012 Phillips: 114270 with bracelet 78690].
* [https://www.minus4plus6.com/RolexPricelist/2011/2011_usa_price_list.pdf Rolex USA price list, 2011], hosted by a third-party archive: pairs bracelet 72400 with reference 116400.
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/146024 Phillips: 16610 with bracelet 93250 and end links 801].
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080218/19 Phillips: 1675 with Jubilee 62510H and end links 502B].
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/232849 Phillips: 116610LN with bracelet 97200].
* [https://www.rolex.com/en-us/watches/cosmograph-daytona/m126515ln-0010 Rolex: Daytona 126515LN], Oysterflex and Glidelock specification.
 
* [https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/christies-watches-online/rolex-oyster-perpetual-date-ref-1501-14/48546 Christie’s, sale 14815, lot 14, circa-1970 ref. 1501], condition report identifies bracelet 7205 and no. 60 end links.


[[Category:Reference]]
[[Category:Reference]]
[[Category:Bracelets]]
[[Category:Bracelets]]

Latest revision as of 07:49, 9 October 2026


Main Page › Bracelets, End Links, Clasps, Link Types

This guide identifies Oyster, Jubilee and President bracelets, their end links and clasp markings. Use it to compare a bracelet with the documented fittings for a watch reference. Each table row links to a photographed component; the galleries below keep a larger view and show the markings or construction where the source image allows it.

A clasp code dates the bracelet; the case has its own serial-number dating. Parts sheets and auction catalogues show documented fittings. Establishing original delivery requires evidence from the individual watch.

A matching bracelet number is not enough by itself: end-link shape, lug width, clasp construction, case reference and service history all matter. The tables below record documented pairings rather than a universal compatibility guarantee.

Quick jump

Bracelet refs
7206 78360 78390 93150 97200 9315
End links
503 580 557 integral modern
Clasps
Oysterlock vintage Oysterlock modern Glidelock Easylink
Link types
rivet folded solid Oyster Jubilee President

Bracelets by reference

Dates below come from dated parts sheets or individual records, so they describe documented examples rather than complete production runs. Parts sheets identify components; auction catalogues record the bracelet fitted when a watch was offered. An individual watch needs its own evidence for original delivery.

Ref Name Period / evidence Link type End links Documented applications Notes Image
6635 Oyster stretch rivet, 19mm Vintage Stretch rivet 57; check individual fitting Chronographs, Air-King The links expand; the 7205 uses fixed links. Rolex 6635 bracelet
7205 Oyster rivet, 19mm Vintage Rivet 271; 57 / 357 on documented Air-Kings; no. 60 recorded on one 1501 lot Daytona, Air-King; 1501 auction example Christie's catalogues a circa-1970 ref. 1501 with a 7205 bracelet and no. 60 end links. This is one offered-watch configuration; its original delivery is unverified. The 7206 is the 20mm counterpart. A US-made C&I bracelet requires separate identification. Rolex 7205 bracelet
7206 Oyster rivet, 20mm Vintage Rivet 58, 60, 80; application varies Submariner, GMT-Master, Explorer Compare end-link shape and case reference. The number alone does not establish original delivery. Rolex 7206 bracelet
72400 Oyster bracelet, 20mm Listed for 116400 in Rolex USA 2011 price list Three-piece Not specified in cited list Milgauss 116400 The list identifies the bracelet/reference pairing, not original delivery on an individual watch. Rolex 72400 bracelet
9315 Oyster folded link, 20mm Listed in Rolex parts sheet, 1985 Folded 280 / 285 fixed; 380 / 385 removable Submariner, Sea-Dweller Rolex sheet 321-6 shows the folded-link construction and alternative end fittings. Rolex 9315 bracelet
7835 Oyster folded link, 19mm Vintage Folded 271; 357 on documented Air-Kings Daytona, Air-King For 20mm cases, compare the wider bracelet references and inspect the end-link stamp. Rolex 7835 bracelet
7836 Oyster folded link, 20mm Vintage; parts shared in 1985 sheet Folded 380 GMT-Master, Explorer Rolex sheet 321-6 identifies parts shared with the 9315. Sharing parts does not make the two bracelet references interchangeable. Rolex 7836 bracelet
78350 Oyster solid link, 19mm Listed in Rolex parts sheet, 1985 Solid 557, 571 Daytona, Air-King Sheet 322-8 specifies the 78350-19 and its steel end links. A separate 17mm version exists. Rolex 78350 bracelet
78360 Oyster solid link, 20mm 1970s onward; reference-dependent Solid 503 on 16520; 580 on other documented fittings Daytona, GMT-Master, Explorer The Daytona later changed to polished-centre bracelets. That change does not date the end of all 78360 production. Rolex 78360 bracelet
78390 Oyster solid link, 20mm Middle part of the 16520 run Solid 503B Daytona Polished centre links distinguish it from the brushed 78360. The Blackbird Watch Manual describes the 16520 progression. Rolex 78390 bracelet
78390A Oyster solid link with solid end links, 20mm Late 16520 production Solid Solid end links Daytona Distinguish the solid end links from the separate hollow 503B fittings of the 78390. Rolex 78390A bracelet
78490 Oyster with solid end links, 20mm 116520 generation Solid Solid end links Daytona 116520 Phillips lot 202605 records a 116520 with a clasp stamped 78490 and an April 2006 guarantee. The 78690 belongs to a different documented application. Rolex 78490 bracelet
78690 Oyster with solid end links, 20mm 114270 generation Solid Solid end links Explorer 114270 Phillips Hong Kong 2022 lot 8012 records 78690 on a 114270 with a November 2010 guarantee. Rolex 78690 bracelet
78790 Oyster, 20mm 1990s–2000s; reference-dependent Solid Hollow end links; check watch reference GMT-Master, Explorer Distinguish 78790 from 78790A, the version with solid end links. Rolex 78790 bracelet
93150 Oyster solid link, 20mm Listed in 1985; continued into later references Solid 501, 580, 585, 593 in the 1985 sheet Submariner, Sea-Dweller Rolex sheet 323-3 separates steel 93150 fittings from Rolesor 93153 fittings. It does not establish a universal case pairing or a 1990 end date. Rolex 93150 bracelet
62510H Jubilee, 20mm, steel Listed in Rolex parts sheet, 1985 Jubilee 502, 550, 555; 502B on the cited GMT lot Datejust, GMT-Master Sheet 322-4 distinguishes steel 62510H from Rolesor 62523H. Phillips records a 62510H with 502B end links on a 1675. That auction pairing does not prove original delivery. Rolex 62510H bracelet
93250 Oyster with solid end links, 20mm, steel 16610 generation Solid 801 on the cited example Submariner 16610 Phillips lot 146024 records a steel 16610 with 93250, 801 end links and a DT3 clasp. It is not a two-tone predecessor of 78363. Rolex 93250 bracelet
78363 Oyster, 20mm, steel and yellow gold Five-digit generation Solid Hollow end links; check exact fitting Daytona 16523, GMT-Master The 78363 is the steel-and-gold Daytona bracelet, separate from the steel Submariner 93250. The later polished-centre Daytona bracelet is 78393; its timing does not date the 78363 changeover. Rolex 78363 bracelet
8385 President, 20mm, gold Vintage Day-Date generation President Check the individual bracelet Day-Date President end fittings need their own identification; 455 appears in the Rolex sheet for Rolesor Jubilee 62523H. Rolex 8385 bracelet
78668 Oyster solid link, 20mm (18k yellow gold) 1988–~1994 Solid 103 Daytona The gold Daytona 16528 bracelet through the first half of the run, with a deployant clasp and no flip-lock. Not a gold casting of the steel 78360 and it does not share that part number: Christie’s catalogues ref. 16528 case R985336 with "deployant clasp stamped 78668, endlinks stamped 103", and Antiquorum records 78668 with an M12 clasp on case R985236. Clasp codes observed are M-series, 1988. An inferred "78368" circulated in older scaffolds and is attested nowhere. Rolex 78668 bracelet
78398 Oyster solid link, 20mm (18k yellow gold, later run) ~1995–2000 Solid 193 Daytona Successor to 78668 on the gold 16528 case. Phillips catalogues ref. 16528 case X435057 with the bracelet "stamped '193' to the endlinks" and the clasp "stamped '78398' and 'T12'". T12 (1995) is the earliest documented 78398 code while 78668 still appears on 1993-era clasps, so the changeover sits in a loose 1993–1995 band rather than on the steel 78360 → 78390 line. That Phillips bracelet post-dates its 1991 X-serial case, a reminder that the clasp code dates the bracelet only. Rolex 78398 bracelet
97200 Oyster, 20mm, steel 40mm ceramic Submariner generation Solid Solid end links Submariner 116610LN / 116610LV Glidelock clasp. Phillips lot 232849 documents 97200 on a 116610LN. Other watch families and the later 41mm Submariner use different bracelet references. Rolex 97200 bracelet
97203 Oyster, 20mm, steel and yellow gold 40mm ceramic Submariner generation Solid Solid end links Submariner 116613 Glidelock clasp. Check the exact bracelet number when comparing later 41mm references. Rolex 97203 bracelet
97208 Oyster, 20mm, yellow gold 40mm ceramic Submariner generation Solid Solid end links Submariner 116618 Lepage records bracelet 97208 on its photographed 116618LB. Rolex 97208 bracelet
97209 Oyster, 20mm, white gold 40mm ceramic Submariner generation Solid Solid end links Submariner 116619 Gaston & Sheehan lot 75 records bracelet 97209 on a white-gold 116619. Rolex 97209 bracelet

End links

End links connect the bracelet to the case lugs. Match their shape and markings to the bracelet and case reference. Read letter suffixes against dated parts sheets and pictured examples; they do not encode finish or construction consistently. The table gives documented pairings, not a complete fitment chart.

Ref Bracelet Case application Construction Evidence Notes Image
58 7206 Vintage 20mm Oyster cases Hollow Collector reference tables Check the particular case; not a 9315 end link. Rolex 58 end link
60 7205 (one catalogued ref. 1501); 7206 One 19mm ref. 1501 example; vintage 20mm Oyster cases Hollow Christie's, 2017, lot 14; collector reference tables Christie's reports 7205/60 on one circa-1970 ref. 1501. Record this as an auctioned configuration; original delivery and broader case fitment remain unverified. Rolex 60 end link
80 7206 Submariner and other documented 20mm cases Hollow Collector reference tables Rivet-bracelet fitting; the stamp is not a production-year code. Rolex 80 end link
271 7205, 7835 19mm chronograph cases Hollow Collector reference tables Inspect the actual stamp and compare it with a photograph of the fitting. Rolex 271 end link
380 9315, 7836 20mm cases; fitting varies Hollow Rolex sheet 321-6, 1985 Listed with the folded-link 9315; the sheet also identifies shared 7836 parts. Rolex 380 end link
455 62523H Rolesor Jubilee applications Hollow Rolex sheet 322-4, 1985 The sheet lists 455 with Rolesor 62523H, not steel 62510H or President 8385. Rolex 455 end link
501 93150 Specific case fitment varies Hollow Rolex sheet 323-3, 1985 The 1985 sheet lists 501 with the steel 93150. Match the fitting to the case and bracelet. Rolex 501 end link
501B 78360, 93150 Explorer II 16550 catalogue and fitment-table examples Hollow Vintage Rolex Field Manual; Antiquorum example Published fitment evidence; it does not establish original delivery on every watch. Rolex 501B end link
502B 62510H GMT-Master 1675 in the cited lot Hollow Phillips Geneva 2018, lot 19 Phillips records it on a Jubilee bracelet. The lot includes a 2005 service guarantee, so it documents that watch’s recorded configuration. Rolex 502B end link
503 78360 Daytona 16520 Hollow Blackbird Watch Manual; Field Manual Brushed-bracelet fitting. Rolex 503 end link
503B 78390 Daytona 16520 Hollow Blackbird Watch Manual; Field Manual Polished-centre bracelet fitting. Do not treat it as the solid end link of the 78390A. Rolex 503B end link
571 78350-19 19mm Daytona applications Hollow Rolex sheet 322-8, 1985 The parts sheet establishes the bracelet/end-link pairing; an individual case needs its own fitment evidence. Rolex 571 end link
580 93150; also 78360 in collector tables Submariner; other 20mm applications vary Hollow Rolex sheet 323-3; collector reference tables A solid-link bracelet can still have hollow end links. Rolex 580 end link
585 93150 Sea-Dweller Hollow Rolex sheet 323-3; collector reference tables The sheet lists the part; collector reference tables identify the Sea-Dweller application. Rolex 585 end link
integral-modern Bracelet-specific Match the exact watch and bracelet references Solid Modern reference specifications Solid end links describe construction rather than a universal part number. Check the exact bracelet and case references, especially across the 40mm and 41mm Submariner generations. Rolex integral-modern end link
57 Vintage 19mm Oyster Air-King 5500 in the cited lot Hollow Phillips Geneva 2016, lot 22 The cited catalogue records both 57 and 357 markings on one bracelet; that example alone cannot date a general changeover. Rolex 57 end link
357 Vintage 19mm Oyster Air-King 5500 in the cited lot Hollow Phillips Geneva 2016, lot 22 The cited Air-King has 19mm lugs; the Explorer 1016 has 20mm lugs. Rolex 357 end link
557 78350-19 19mm Air-King applications Hollow Rolex sheet 322-8, 1985 The sheet documents this bracelet and end-link pairing. Any change to solid end links around the 14000 launch needs separate dated evidence. Rolex 557 end link

Clasps

Clasp markings use a separate dating system from case serial numbers. Identify the clasp generation before reading its stamp against a date table.

Generation overview

Generation Years Refs that used it Distinguishing features
Vintage folding clasp Reference-dependent Rivet and folded Oyster bracelets Stamped folding blades. Logo and date-stamp variations need comparison with the same bracelet type.
Vintage safety clasp Reference-dependent 93150; later Daytona bracelet variants The extra safety latch distinguishes it from a plain folding clasp. Not every 78350 or 78360 has one.
Modern Oysterlock / Oysterclasp Reference-dependent Modern reference-specific bracelets Oysterlock names a safety clasp; Oysterclasp does not necessarily have that extra latch. Identify the extension mechanism separately.
Easylink Reference-dependent Selected Oyster bracelets A folding comfort link adds approximately 5mm. It is not fitted to every modern sports bracelet.
Glidelock Reference-dependent Submariner; selected Oysterflex references A sliding adjustment system. The Submariner version offers about 20mm in 2mm steps; the current Daytona 126515LN also uses Glidelock with Oysterflex.

Daytona clasp changes depend on the bracelet generation. Inspect the bracelet number, folding blade and safety latch together; a logo alone does not establish the year.

Date-code key

The dates below follow a widely-used collector chart, also reproduced in The Vintage Rolex Field Manual. They are estimates, not Rolex production records. Some mid-1990s letters appear against more than one year. A standalone S can be a 1994 date code; do not call a clasp a service replacement from that letter alone.

Code Year Code Year Code Year
A 1976 M 1988 DT 2002
B 1977 N 1989 AD 2003
C 1978 O 1990 CL 2004
D 1979 P 1991 MA 2005
E 1980 Q 1992 OP 2006
F 1981 R 1993 EO 2007
G 1982 S 1994 PJ 2008
H 1983 T or W 1995 LT 2009
I 1984 U or V 1996 RS 2010
J 1985 U or Z 1997 CP 2011
K 1986 W or Z 1998 (random) 2011 onward
L 1987 X 1999
AB 2000
DE 2001

Do not read a clasp letter against the case-serial chart. The two systems use some of the same letters for different periods. Later randomized clasp codes have no public year mapping; the bracelet reference and clasp construction remain useful for identification.

Earlier clasps commonly use quarter-and-year stamps. For example, I.65 reads as the first quarter of 1965. Stamp formats vary; compare the complete marking with documented examples of the same clasp.

Link construction types

Rivet, folded and solid describe link construction. Oyster, Jubilee and President describe bracelet designs. Keep the two distinctions separate when identifying a bracelet; an Oyster bracelet can use different construction depending on its period.

Style Years Identifying features Bracelet refs using
Rivet Vintage Rivet heads are visible along the sides. Stretch and fixed-link versions need separate identification. 6635, 7205, 7206
Folded Vintage Folded sheet-metal links without exposed side rivets. 7835, 7836, 9315
Solid link Reference-dependent Solid link bodies; end links can still be hollow. Check centre-link construction separately on precious-metal and Rolesor variants. 78350, 78360, 78390, 93150, 93250 and later Oyster references
Jubilee From 1945 Five-piece link design. Construction varies by generation. 62510H; Rolesor 62523H
Oyster Reference-dependent Three-piece link design, made in riveted, folded and solid-link versions. 7206, 7836, 78360, 97200 and others
President From 1956 Three-piece links with a rounded profile, in gold or platinum. Precious-metal content does not mean every vintage link is solid throughout. 8385 and later President references
Pearlmaster From 1992 Five-piece rounded-link design; gem setting depends on the version. Reference-specific
Oysterflex From 2015 Elastomer over flexible metal blades. The extension system depends on the watch: Rolex specifies Glidelock for the current Daytona 126515LN. Reference-specific

Component images

These photographs show the bracelet and end-link forms listed above. A photograph documents the pictured part; it does not by itself prove original delivery on a particular watch.

Bracelet references

  • 6635 bracelet
    6635 bracelet
  • 7205 bracelet
    7205 bracelet
  • 7206 bracelet
    7206 bracelet
  • 7835 bracelet
    7835 bracelet
  • 7836 bracelet
    7836 bracelet
  • 78350 bracelet
    78350 bracelet
  • 78360 bracelet
    78360 bracelet
  • 78390 bracelet
    78390 bracelet
  • 78390A bracelet
    78390A bracelet
  • 78490 bracelet
    78490 bracelet
  • 78690 bracelet
    78690 bracelet
  • 78790 bracelet
    78790 bracelet
  • 93150 bracelet
    93150 bracelet
  • 93250 bracelet
    93250 bracelet
  • 78363 bracelet
    78363 bracelet
  • 62510H bracelet
    62510H bracelet
  • 9315 bracelet
    9315 bracelet
  • 8385 bracelet
    8385 bracelet
  • 78668 bracelet
    78668 bracelet
  • 78398 bracelet
    78398 bracelet
  • 97200 bracelet; labelled reference-sheet image
    97200 bracelet; labelled reference-sheet image
  • 97203 bracelet
    97203 bracelet
  • 97208 bracelet; labelled reference-sheet image
    97208 bracelet; labelled reference-sheet image
  • 97209 bracelet
    97209 bracelet
  • 72400 bracelet
    72400 bracelet

End-link references

  • 271 end link
    271 end link
  • 58 end link
    58 end link
  • 60 end link
    60 end link
  • 80 end link
    80 end link
  • 380 end link
    380 end link
  • 455 end link
    455 end link
  • 501 end link; identity lead, stamp not legible in this frame
    501 end link; identity lead, stamp not legible in this frame
  • 501B end link
    501B end link
  • 502B end link; stamp visible, OEM status unverified
    502B end link; stamp visible, OEM status unverified
  • 503 end link
    503 end link
  • 503B end link; identity lead, stamp not legible in this frame
    503B end link; identity lead, stamp not legible in this frame
  • 580 end link
    580 end link
  • 585 end link
    585 end link
  • 571 end link; identity lead, stamp not legible in this frame
    571 end link; identity lead, stamp not legible in this frame
  • integral-modern end link; construction example (pictured part marked 97200)
    integral-modern end link; construction example (pictured part marked 97200)
  • 57 end link
    57 end link
  • 357 end link
    357 end link
  • 557 end link
    557 end link

Sources



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