Reference:prince: Difference between revisions
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|title=Rolex Prince — Art-Deco Reference Guide to Every Model | Rolexopedia | |title=Rolex Prince — Art-Deco Reference Guide to Every Model | Rolexopedia | ||
|description=The Rolex Prince family, 1928 to mid-1940s. Rectangular Art-Deco "Brancard" stretcher cases, duo-dial architecture with sub-seconds at six, Aegler shaped chronometer movements (Cal. 300 / 350 / T.S. 300) in Prima, Extra Prima, and Ultra Prima grades. References 971, 1490, 1491, 1527, 1645, 1862, 3361, and 3937, with retailer signatures spanning Bucherer, Beyer, Beguin, Cooke & Kelvey, and the Eaton 1/4 Century Club. | |description=The Rolex Prince family, 1928 to mid-1940s. Rectangular Art-Deco "Brancard" stretcher cases, duo-dial architecture with sub-seconds at six, Aegler shaped chronometer movements (Cal. 300 / 350 / T.S. 300) in Prima, Extra Prima, and Ultra Prima grades. References 971, 1490, 1491, 1527, 1645, 1862, 3361, and 3937, with retailer signatures spanning Bucherer, Beyer, Beguin, Cooke & Kelvey, and the Eaton 1/4 Century Club. | ||
|keywords=Rolex Prince, Brancard, Chronometer, Doctor's Watch, 971, 1490, 1491, 1527, 1645, 1862, 3361, 3937, Aegler, Cal. 300, T.S. 300, Ultra Prima, Extra Prima, Beyer, Bucherer, Eaton 1/4 Century Club, Art Deco, vintage Rolex, observatory chronometer | |keywords=Rolex Prince, Brancard, Chronometer, Doctor's Watch, 971, 1490, 1491, 1527, 1564, 1645, 1862, 3361, 3937, Aegler, Cal. 300, T.S. 300, Ultra Prima, Extra Prima, Beyer, Bucherer, Eaton 1/4 Century Club, Art Deco, vintage Rolex, observatory chronometer | ||
|image=Ref 1490 hero.webp | |image=Ref 1490 hero.webp | ||
|image_alt=Rolex Prince Brancard Chronometer 1490 — Beyer-double-signed steel | |image_alt=Rolex Prince Brancard Chronometer 1490 — Beyer-double-signed steel | ||
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The Rolex Prince is a rectangular Art-Deco family introduced in 1928 and produced into the mid-1940s. Its Aegler shaped movement places the winding barrel at one end of the plate and the balance at the other. The defining dial layout has hours and minutes in the upper register and sub-seconds at six, the format behind the later “doctor's watch” nickname. Period advertising presented the Prince as a chronometer model, but the grade and dial designation still need to be checked on each watch. | The Rolex Prince is a rectangular Art-Deco family introduced in 1928 and produced into the mid-1940s. Its Aegler shaped movement places the winding barrel at one end of the plate and the balance at the other. The defining dial layout has hours and minutes in the upper register and sub-seconds at six, the format behind the later “doctor's watch” nickname. Period advertising presented the Prince as a chronometer model, but the grade and dial designation still need to be checked on each watch. | ||
The vintage catalog includes 971, 1490, 1491, 1527, 1862, 3361, and 3937, with the unflared 1343 Classic and pocket-watch reference 1645 alongside them. Production tapered during the Second World War as Rolex concentrated on the Oyster Perpetual platform. A documented Prince case carries a 1947 dedication, but that is an example date rather than a firm end date for the family. The Prince | The vintage catalog includes 971, 1490, 1491, 1527, 1862, 3361, and 3937, with the unflared 1343 Classic and pocket-watch reference 1645 alongside them. Production tapered during the Second World War as Rolex concentrated on the Oyster Perpetual platform. A documented Prince case carries a 1947 dedication, but that is an example date rather than a firm end date for the family. Watch LIFE NEWS dates the modern Cellini Prince revival to 2005. The modern Cellini Prince is separate from the vintage rectangular Princes. Rolex introduced it in 2005; refs. [[Reference:5440/8|5440/8]] (yellow gold), [[Reference:5441/9|5441/9]] (white gold), and [[Reference:5442/5|5442/5]] (Everose gold) each have a page. | ||
== Common entry points == | == Common entry points == | ||
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| [[Reference:1343|1343]] || c.1928/1929–c.1935 || Unflared rectangular Classic || Aegler 7½ ligne shaped, 15j Observatory Quality || The Prince Classic; the unflared sister to the 971/1490 Brancards. Suffix system: 1343 (silver), 1343A (standard, multiple metals), 1343B (Tiger Stripe two-colour gold). Friedberg reads 1343 + 971 as the 1928 launch pair; ''Rolex Magazine'' 2017 reads 1343 + 1490 | | [[Reference:1343|1343]] || c.1928/1929–c.1935 || Unflared rectangular Classic || Aegler 7½ ligne shaped, 15j Observatory Quality || The Prince Classic; the unflared sister to the 971/1490 Brancards. Suffix system: 1343 (silver), 1343A (standard, multiple metals), 1343B (Tiger Stripe two-colour gold). Friedberg reads 1343 + 971 as the 1928 launch pair; ''Rolex Magazine'' 2017 reads 1343 + 1490 | ||
|- | |- | ||
| [[Reference:971|971]] || c. | | [[Reference:971|971]] || 1928 hallmark; Sotheby's dates a 971U example c.1939 || Early Brancard "stretcher" || Aegler shaped (early variants) || Friedberg's 2001 TimeZone article applies Brancard to the 971; later auction catalogues often use it for the 1490 | ||
|- | |- | ||
| [[Reference:1490|1490]] || c.1928–c.1945 || Larger flared Brancard, ~36–37×22–23mm body || Cal. 300 / Cal. 350 / Cal. 7½′′′ T.S. 300 || The most frequently catalogued Prince reference, with documented examples in steel, 9K/10K/14K/18K gold, pink gold, two-tone, Tiger Stripe bi-color, and platinum | | [[Reference:1490|1490]] || c.1928–c.1945 || Larger flared Brancard, ~36–37×22–23mm body || Cal. 300 / Cal. 350 / Cal. 7½′′′ T.S. 300 || The most frequently catalogued Prince reference, with documented examples in steel, 9K/10K/14K/18K gold, pink gold, two-tone, Tiger Stripe bi-color, and platinum | ||
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| [[Reference:1527|1527]] || c.1930s || Rectangular || Aegler shaped || Prince variant | | [[Reference:1527|1527]] || c.1930s || Rectangular || Aegler shaped || Prince variant | ||
|- | |- | ||
| [[Reference:1768|1768]] || Auction dates c. | | [[Reference:1768|1768]] || Auction dates c.1927–c.1940; production endpoints unknown || Stepped rectangular || Manual wind; catalogues use differing movement labels || “Railway” auction name; two-register dial, with steel, gold, and mixed-metal examples [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-4642354 Christie’s, case 011069] | ||
|- | |- | ||
| [[Reference:1862|1862]] || c.1930s–1940s || Rectangular || Aegler shaped || Prince variant; surfaces alongside the 1490 in Christie's group lot 1395-307 (18K, case 16,663, c.1938) | | [[Reference:1862|1862]] || c.1930s–1940s || Rectangular || Aegler shaped || Prince variant; surfaces alongside the 1490 in Christie's group lot 1395-307 (18K, case 16,663, c.1938) | ||
|- | |- | ||
| [[Reference:1880|1880]] || | | [[Reference:1880|1880]] || Ineichen lists 1920/1920s; Sotheby’s dates one circa 1935; a gold example bears a dedication ending 12.10.38 || Rectangular || Hand-wound; catalogues use HW, C.360, Ultra Prima, and a curved-sided 17-jewel description || Steel, partly gilt steel and 9ct gold; [https://ineichen.com/auctions/timed-86/5/ Ineichen 2025 lot 5], [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-4642619 Christie’s lot 410] and [https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2019/important-watches-ge1901/lot.166.html Sotheby’s lot 166] identify the reference | ||
|- | |- | ||
| [[Reference:3361|3361]] || c.1930s–1940s || Rectangular || Aegler shaped || Late Prince variant | | [[Reference:3361|3361]] || c.1930s–1940s || Rectangular || Aegler shaped || Late Prince variant | ||
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| [[Reference:3937|3937]] || c.1938–c.1950 catalogue examples; production span unknown || Rectangular || Prince movement descriptions vary by lot || Late Prince variant | | [[Reference:3937|3937]] || c.1938–c.1950 catalogue examples; production span unknown || Rectangular || Prince movement descriptions vary by lot || Late Prince variant | ||
|- | |- | ||
| [[Reference:1645|1645]] || Auction examples dated c.1930–c.1945; one Antiquorum catalogue gives a broader early-1940s–1950s span || Irregular hexagonal open-face pocket watch with snap-on back and hinged bow || Shaped manual movements catalogued as 17-jewel Ultra Prima or Class A Observatory; | | [[Reference:1645|1645]] || Auction examples dated c.1930–c.1945; one Antiquorum catalogue gives a broader early-1940s–1950s span || Irregular hexagonal open-face pocket watch with snap-on back and hinged bow || Shaped manual movements catalogued as 17-jewel Ultra Prima or Class A Observatory; the Field Manual lists 5096, unconfirmed on a movement || Prince Imperial name; steel, two-tone and gold cases, including a two-tone salmon dial on a steel example; separate time and seconds dials | ||
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== Sporting Princess references and forms == | |||
Antiquorum's 1998 catalogue identifies two separate “Sporting Princess Chronometre” lots as ref. 1564. Lot 198 is a stainless-steel purse watch with a guilloché cover; lot 199 has a blue galuchat-covered case. Both descriptions say the case opens as a small bedside clock, give dimensions of 25 × 41 mm, and list a 7½-line Extra Prima Observatory-quality, 15-jewel movement. In 2006, Antiquorum catalogued case 1925 as ref. 1564, with a green reptile-skin cover and a green lacquer dial with white baton indexes and Arabic 12. The catalogue records Stern as retailer (No. 75908) and says the dial, case, and movement are signed; it gives the same movement grade and dimensions. ([https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-88-198 Antiquorum, 1998, lot 198]; [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-88-199 lot 199]; [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-137-246 Antiquorum, 2006, case 1925]) | |||
Christie's catalogues a different circa-1935 steel savonette as a Rolex Prince ref. 1564, with the caseback stamped “1577 1564” and dimensions of 25 × 40 mm. Its circa-1930 Sporting Prince purse watch is listed as ref. 1575/1564. The records assign different case forms to the number strings “1577 1564” and “1575/1564”; they do not establish whether the savonette belongs with the purse-watch line. ([https://www.christies.com/lot/lot-a-stainless-steel-savonette-wristwatch-by-rolex-4875628 Christie's, 2007, lot 165]; [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-4982933 Christie's, Sporting Prince 1575/1564]) | |||
== The Brancard nickname == | == The Brancard nickname == | ||
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* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2023/important-watches-online/prince-imperial-reference-1645-a-rolesium-steel Sotheby’s, 2023, Prince Imperial 1645, lot 331] | * [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2023/important-watches-online/prince-imperial-reference-1645-a-rolesium-steel Sotheby’s, 2023, Prince Imperial 1645, lot 331] | ||
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-1645-lot-278-105 Antiquorum, 2013, Prince Imperial 1645, lot 105] | * [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-1645-lot-278-105 Antiquorum, 2013, Prince Imperial 1645, lot 105] | ||
* [https://auctions.tennants.co.uk/auction/lot/lot-2170---rolex-a-rare-9-carat-gold-pocket-watch/?lot=2441604&sd=1 Tennants, 2023, Prince Imperial 1645, lot 2170] | |||
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5573103 Christie's Hong Kong, 2012, Prince Imperial 1645, lot 4990] | |||
* Colin A. White, The Vintage Rolex Field Manual, “Prince, Princess & Queen References” table: ref. 1645 listed with 5096 in the Cal. column. | |||
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080319/17 "Rolex Reference 1490 Prince Brancard, Retailed by Beyer", Phillips, 2019-11-08] | * [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080319/17 "Rolex Reference 1490 Prince Brancard, Retailed by Beyer", Phillips, 2019-11-08] | ||
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* [https://www.pandolfini.it/uploads/auctions/20141125.pdf Pandolfini, ref. 1768 case 12'672, 1930s] | * [https://www.pandolfini.it/uploads/auctions/20141125.pdf Pandolfini, ref. 1768 case 12'672, 1930s] | ||
* [https://www.cannesauction.com/en-lots/64330 Besch Cannes Auction, ref. 1768, circa 1937] | * [https://www.cannesauction.com/en-lots/64330 Besch Cannes Auction, ref. 1768, circa 1937] | ||
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-4642354 Christie’s, Prince ref. 1768 case 011069, circa 1940] | |||
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-88-198 Antiquorum, Sporting Princess ref. 1564, 1998, lot 198] | |||
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-88-199 Antiquorum, Sporting Princess ref. 1564, 1998, lot 199] | |||
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-137-246 Antiquorum, Sporting Princess ref. 1564, case 1925, 2006] | |||
* [https://www.christies.com/lot/lot-a-stainless-steel-savonette-wristwatch-by-rolex-4875628 Christie's, Prince ref. 1564 savonette, 2007, lot 165] | |||
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-4982933 Christie's, Sporting Prince ref. 1575/1564] | |||
* [https://web.archive.org/web/20141220000635/http://www.rolex.com/watches/cellini-rolex-prince/m5441_9-0012.html Rolex, Cellini Prince 5441/9 product page (archived 2014)] | |||
* [https://www.powerwatch.jp/2021/01/31/rolex_79/ Yoshimasa Kikuchi, Watch LIFE NEWS, 2021] | |||
* [https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/cellini-rolex-prince-the-rolex-nobody-knows-and-should Jack Forster, Hodinkee, modern Cellini Prince introduction (2015)] | |||
* [https://ineichen.com/auctions/timed-86/5/ Ineichen, 19 February 2025, timed auction 86, lot 5 — Rolex ref. 1880] | |||
[[Category:Prince]] | [[Category:Prince]] | ||
[[Category:Family]] | [[Category:Family]] | ||