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{{#seo:
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|title=Rolex Oyster Perpetual 1005 — Fluted Gold Bezel, 34mm, 1959–1980s | Rolexopedia
|title=Rolex Oyster Perpetual 1005 — Fluted-Bezel Reference | Rolexopedia
|description=The 1005 is the fluted-bezel 4-digit Oyster Perpetual: 34mm, no date, caliber 1560 then 1570, c.1959 into the early 1980s. The fluting is always cast in gold, over gold, pink gold, two-tone and steel cases alike. Pink gold is the strongest branch and champagne the signature dial.
|description=The Rolex 1005 is a 34mm no-date Oyster Perpetual with a fluted bezel. Auction records document yellow and pink gold, steel and two-tone cases, and calibers 1560 and 1570.
|keywords=Rolex 1005, Oyster Perpetual, fluted bezel, cal 1560, cal 1570, 34mm, 18k pink gold, two-tone Rolesor, Gay Freres bracelet, 1005/1035, Coca-Cola service award
|keywords=Rolex 1005, Oyster Perpetual, fluted bezel, cal 1560, cal 1570, 34mm, 18k pink gold, two-tone Rolesor, Gay Freres bracelet, 1005/1035, Coca-Cola service award
|image=Ref 1005 hero.webp
|image=Ref 1005 hero.webp
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|og_type=article
|og_type=article
|published_time=2026-08-10T21:52:03Z
|published_time=2026-08-10T21:52:03Z
|modified_time=2026-08-10T22:03:49Z
|modified_time=2026-09-23T13:21:31Z
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
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The 1005 is the fluted-bezel 4-digit Oyster Perpetual, the dress end of a line whose other members wear a plain or milled surround. The case is the same 34mm three-body Oyster as the [[Reference:1002|1002]] and the [[Reference:1007|1007]], with 19mm lugs, a screw-down back and Twinlock crown, an acrylic crystal and a chronometer-rated no-date automatic. The bezel is the whole difference, and it is always gold. Yellow on the gold watches, and on the steel and two-tone examples a gold fluted bezel over a steel case, because Rolex never cut the fluting into steel on this reference.
The 1005 is a no-date Oyster Perpetual with a fluted bezel. Auction descriptions show gold bezels on yellow- and pink-gold cases, and gold bezels over steel cases on steel and two-tone examples. The cited watches share a case family with the [[Reference:1002|1002]] and [[Reference:1007|1007]]; auction measurements vary from 33mm to 34mm.


What that does to the reference's population is unusual for the family. The 1005 is the one 4-digit no-date Oyster Perpetual whose auction record is dominated by precious metal: 14k and 18k yellow gold, 18k pink gold, two-tone, and only occasionally a steel case wearing a gold bezel. It reads as a Datejust without the date, which is close to what it was for.
The sale records consulted include yellow and pink gold, steel, and two-tone cases. They document individual configurations rather than the full production population.




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|-
|-
| production
| production
| c.1959 into the early 1980s
| Auction catalogues date examples from circa 1962 into the 1970s; production limits are not established
|-
|-
| case diameter
| case diameter
| 34mm
| 34mm in most descriptions; cited auction measurements range from 33mm to 34mm
|-
|-
| lug width
| lug width
Line 54: Line 54:
|-
|-
| bezel
| bezel
| fluted, always cast in gold
| fluted; cited lots describe gold bezels, including examples over steel cases
|-
|-
| crystal
| crystal
Line 72: Line 72:
|-
|-
| caseback
| caseback
| screw-down, inside stamped 1005 with a Roman-quarter date code
| screw-down; some auction examples show an inside caseback stamp 1005 and a separate date code
|-
|-
| paired designations
| paired designations
| catalogued as 1002/1005, 1003/1005 and 1005/1035
| auction catalogues use 1002/1005, 1003/1005 and 1005/1035; a collector photo set shows 1023 between the lugs and 1005 inside the caseback
|-
|-
| sibling references
| sibling references
Line 81: Line 81:
|-
|-
| oversized relative
| oversized relative
| [[Reference:1018
| [[Reference:1018|1018]], the 36mm case
| 1018]], the 36mm case
|}
|}


==Where it sits in the line==
==Where it sits in the line==


The 4-digit no-date Oyster Perpetuals are one watch offered with a choice of bezel, and the 1005 takes the most formal one. Nothing behind the bezel changes: the case, the calibers, the crown, the crystal and the chronometer rating are shared with the [[Reference:1002|1002]] and the engine-turned references. The fluting is what buyers were paying for, and it moved the watch out of the tool-watch tier and into the same visual register as the Datejust, which by the 1960s had made the fluted bezel a Rolex signature.
The 1005 is the fluted-bezel reference among the four-digit no-date Oyster Perpetuals. The [[Reference:1002|1002]] has a smooth bezel; refs. 1003, 1006, 1007 and 1008 appear with engine-turned bezels. Auction records use paired designations such as 1002/1005, 1003/1005 and 1005/1035. These can reflect different numbers between the lugs and inside the caseback; read the markings on each watch rather than treating the paired numbers as a single reference.


That positioning explains the case-material spread. Where the [[Reference:1002|1002]] is overwhelmingly steel, the 1005 turns up in 14k gold, 18k gold, 18k pink gold and two-tone far more often than in plain steel, and the gold bezel is present in every configuration. The 1005 also lends its number to other references in the family: gold cases across the group carry a 1005 stamp inside the caseback, which is why paired forms like 1002/1005 and 1003/1005 recur in catalogue text on watches whose engraved reference is something else entirely.
A collector's four-photo listing shows another pairing: 1023 is stamped between the lugs, while 1005 appears inside the caseback. The same images show 14K marks and a rotor stamped 1570. The dial reads Oyster Perpetual. The seller dates the watch to 1959; the post includes no papers. This is one observed watch, not a general rule for every 1023 or 1005. [https://www.rolexforums.com/showthread.php?t=856109 Rolex Forums, wtp123, 24 May 2022]
 
A 2025 Gardiner Houlgate catalogue also lists inside caseback no. 1005 on a separate ref. 1023. This gives a second record of the pairing; it does not establish that every 1005 inner cover belongs to an outer 1023. [https://www.the-saleroom.com/de-de/auction-catalogues/gardiner-houlgate/catalogue-id-srgard10204/pdfexport Gardiner Houlgate, 20 May 2025, lot 73]


==Production outline==
==Production outline==


Caliber 1560 sets the practical start at 1959, and the earliest documented 1005s follow within three years. Case number 826,301 is dated to 1962 by Sotheby's and to circa 1963 by Bonhams, which sold the same pink-gold watch a decade later. Case number 903,017 is catalogued circa 1962 and case number 926,416 circa 1963. Case number 1,050,796 sits at circa 1964, and case number 1,176,167 carries a caseback stamped II.65, the cleanest quarter-code anchor on the reference.
Auction catalogues date individual 1005 examples from circa 1962 through the 1970s. Case 826,301 appears in both Sotheby’s 2020 and Bonhams 2022 catalogues; the matching case number identifies the same pink-gold watch. Sotheby’s dates it to circa 1962 and Bonhams to circa 1963. Other catalogue dates include cases 903,017 (circa 1962), 926,416 (circa 1963), 1,050,796 (circa 1964), 1,176,167 (with an inside caseback date code II.65), 1,177,843 (circa 1966), 1,801,509 (circa 1968), 1,586,108 (catalogued circa 1971, with a guarantee booklet dated 22 December 1971), 3,021,909 (circa 1971), 3,367,203 (London import mark for 1973), and 3,921,444 (circa 1974). These are catalogue dates and component marks, not a production chronology. Sotheby’s dated case 7,126,615 to circa 1995. That conflicts with the usual serial-number estimates, which place numbers in this range in the early 1980s. The lot is an outlier; the available records do not establish the production end date or total.
 
The middle of the run runs through case number 1,177,843 in about 1966, 1,586,108 in 1971 with a guarantee booklet dated 22 December 1971, 1,801,509 in 1968, and 3,021,909 in about 1971. A London import mark for 1973 dates an 18K example whose case number is 3,367,203, and case number 3,921,444 is catalogued circa 1974.
 
The end is less firmly drawn than the beginning. Sotheby's catalogued a steel-cased example with a gold fluted bezel, case number 7,126,615, as circa 1995, a date the case number contradicts by more than a decade; a serial in that band belongs to the early 1980s, which is where the rest of the record puts the close of the reference. No production figure has been published.


==Movement notes==
==Movement notes==
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==Dial map==
==Dial map==
[[File:Ref 1005 yellow gold.webp|thumb|right|250px|Champagne dial and gold fluted bezel on a yellow gold 1005, circa 1963|alt=Champagne dial and gold fluted bezel on a yellow gold 1005, circa 1963]]


Champagne is the reference's signature dial and appears on more documented examples than everything else combined, which follows from the gold cases. The finish is a warm sunburst with applied gilt or gold baton markers, black or gilt outer minute divisions, and luminous five-minute dots on the examples that carry lume. Bonhams describes the standard configuration precisely on the 1973 London-import watch: pale champagne, applied gilt baton hour markers with black accents, black outer minute divisions with luminous dot five-minute markers, and gilt baton hands with luminous inserts.
Auction records show champagne, gilt, gold-toned, silvered, black and white dials. Bonhams describes the pale champagne dial on its 1973 London-import example with gilt baton markers, black outer minute divisions, luminous five-minute dots and gilt hands with luminous inserts. Artcurial’s 1966 rose-gold example has a silver dial with rose-gold markers and leaf hands.


Gilt and gold-toned dials sit alongside champagne on the 14k and 18k gold cases, usually with dauphine hands on the early examples and baton hands later. Silvered dials appear across the run, and on the pink-gold watches the markers and hands are matched to the case: Artcurial's 1966 rose-gold example has applied rose-gold markers and rose-gold leaf hands.
Christie’s catalogued a 1964 gold 1005 with a black dial. Artcurial described a separate steel-and-gold example with a refinished black dial. A two-tone Bonhams example has a white dial with black Roman numerals and luminous-tipped gilt markers. Christie’s also catalogued a yellow-gold example with a gold dial and diamond-set markers. The catalogue documents the watch as sold; it does not establish when or by whom the dial was set.


Two colour branches break the pattern. Gloss black is documented on 18K gold by Christie's, on a 1964 watch with luminous hands and sweep centre seconds, and again on a gold-and-steel example whose Artcurial condition report records the dial as refinished. That second entry is the useful one: black dials on this reference are worth a hard look, because a refinished black dial is a common way to make an ordinary champagne watch more interesting. White with black Roman numerals appears on the two-tone watches, alongside applied luminous-tipped gilt batons, on a configuration that reads much closer to a Datejust than the rest of the reference does.
[[File:Ref 1005 yellow gold.webp|thumb|right|250px|Yellow-gold 1005 with a champagne dial and fluted bezel|alt=Yellow-gold Rolex Oyster Perpetual 1005 with champagne dial and fluted bezel]]


Diamond-set markers turn up on gold examples, and Christie's sold a 1973 yellow-gold 1005 with a gold dial and diamond-set hour markers. Factory gem-setting on this reference is not documented in Rolex material, and aftermarket diamond dials on 34mm Oysters are common, so the setting on any given example is worth establishing before paying for it.
==Case, bezel, crystal, and crown==


==Case, bezel, crystal, and crown==
The cited auction lots describe 33mm and 34mm cases with screw-down backs and crowns and acrylic crystals. Other catalogue details include a 19mm lug width and a three-body Oyster case.
[[File:Ref 1005 textured gold.webp|thumb|right|250px|18K gold example catalogued under the paired designation ref 1005/1035, on an integrated textured-gold bracelet|alt=18K gold example catalogued under the paired designation ref 1005/1035, on an integrated textured-gold bracelet]]


The case is the shared 34mm Oyster, three-body, brushed and polished in a tonneau profile, with a screw-down caseback, Twinlock screw-down crown, drilled 19mm lugs and an acrylic crystal throughout the run. House measurements vary between 33mm and 34mm on the same case; 34mm is the figure that agrees with the bulk of the record.
Auction records describe gold fluted bezels on yellow- and pink-gold cases, and gold fluted bezels fitted to steel and two-tone cases. Sotheby’s describes an 18k yellow-gold bezel on a steel case; Bonhams describes a gold bezel over a steel middle on a two-tone example.


The bezel is cast in gold in every documented configuration. On gold watches it matches the case, yellow on yellow and pink on pink. On steel and two-tone watches the fluted bezel is gold over a steel case, which Sotheby's states directly on a steel Oyster with an 18k yellow gold fluted bezel, and Bonhams confirms on a two-tone example whose fluted gold bezel sits over a steel middle on a steel-and-gold Oyster bracelet. The published family survey makes the same point for the whole line, noting that fluted bezels in this group are always cast in gold, yellow on the gold watches and white on the steel ones. White-gold fluted bezels on steel 1005 cases are recorded in that survey rather than in any lot located here, so the yellow-over-steel combination is the one with photographic backing.
Heritage catalogued an 18k gold watch as a 1005 with a smooth bezel. Artcurial catalogued a 14k Coca-Cola award watch whose bezel appears plain in its photographs. These records conflict with the fluted bezel seen on other 1005s. The catalogues do not establish whether the bezel was replaced or the reference was read from another marking. Check the number between the lugs and the inside caseback separately; the caseback stamp alone does not settle the reference.


Two lots show what happens when the bezel and the reference disagree. Heritage catalogued an 18k gold 1005 with a smooth bezel, and Artcurial catalogued a 14k Coca-Cola award example whose bezel photographs as plain polished. Neither is a documented variant. Both are more likely a bezel swapped at service or a reference read from the caseback stamp rather than from the engraving between the lugs, and on this reference the caseback stamp is the least reliable of the two numbers, because gold cases across the whole family carry a 1005 mark.
Auction catalogues document 14k and 18k yellow gold, 18k pink gold, steel cases with gold bezels, and steel-and-gold two-tone examples.


Case material spans 14k yellow gold, 18k yellow gold, 18k pink gold, steel with a gold bezel, and steel-and-gold two-tone. Gross weights give a sense of the difference: a 14k gold watch on a strap runs around 40 to 49 grams, an 18k rose gold one about 52 grams, and a two-tone watch on its bracelet about 71 grams.
[[File:Ref 1005 textured gold.webp|thumb|right|250px|18K gold example catalogued under the paired designation ref 1005/1035, on an integrated textured-gold bracelet|alt=18K gold example catalogued under the paired designation ref 1005/1035, on an integrated textured-gold bracelet]]


==Bracelets, end links, and clasps==
==Bracelets, end links, and clasps==
[[File:Ref 1005 bracelet.webp|thumb|right|250px|A 14K gold head on an 18K gold Oyster bracelet, a documented mixed-carat delivery|alt=A 14K gold head on an 18K gold Oyster bracelet, a documented mixed-carat delivery]]


Gold delivery through the 1960s was a gold riveted Oyster bracelet with a folding clasp, and Sotheby's recorded one such bracelet on a 1962 pink-gold watch stamped by Gay Frères, the Geneva bracelet maker Rolex used before bringing production in-house. Folded-link gold Oyster bracelets follow, and two-tone watches came on steel-and-gold folded Oyster bracelets with signed folding clasps. Gold fold-over bracelets and leather straps with signed gilt or gold buckles are both original fitments, and a large share of surviving 1005s come to auction on associated leather.
Auction listings show gold riveted and folded Oyster bracelets, two-tone Oyster bracelets, leather straps with signed buckles, and an integrated textured-gold bracelet on a watch catalogued 1005/1035. Bonhams also sold a 14K gold head fitted with an 18K bracelet. These are sale-time configurations; the records do not establish original delivery for each watch. A clasp date dates the bracelet, not the head. See [[Reference:Bracelets|the bracelet and clasp guide]].


Mixed-carat deliveries are documented rather than assumed: Bonhams sold a 14K gold 1005 fitted with an 18K gold bracelet in September 2024. One 18K watch, catalogued under the paired designation 1005/1035, wears an integrated textured-gold bracelet rather than an Oyster at all. A clasp date code dates the bracelet and not the head, and the cross-family detail sits on [[Reference:Bracelets|the bracelet and clasp guide]].
[[File:Ref 1005 bracelet.webp|thumb|right|250px|A 14K gold head on an 18K gold Oyster bracelet, a documented mixed-carat delivery|alt=A 14K gold head on an 18K gold Oyster bracelet, a documented mixed-carat delivery]]


==Special branches==
==Special branches==


===Pink and rose gold===
===Pink and rose gold===
Auction records include several pink- or rose-gold 1005s. Bonhams sold case 826,301 in Hong Kong in December 2022; Sotheby’s had listed the same case in Geneva in June 2020. Artcurial catalogued case 1,177,843 with a silver dial, rose-gold markers and leaf hands. Bonhams recorded another 18K rose-gold example with caliber 1560 in February 2019.
[[File:Ref 1005 pink gold.webp|thumb|right|250px|18k pink gold 1005 on a gold riveted Oyster bracelet, circa 1963|alt=18k pink gold 1005 on a gold riveted Oyster bracelet, circa 1963]]
[[File:Ref 1005 pink gold.webp|thumb|right|250px|18k pink gold 1005 on a gold riveted Oyster bracelet, circa 1963|alt=18k pink gold 1005 on a gold riveted Oyster bracelet, circa 1963]]


The 1005 is the reference in this group where pink gold is a real branch rather than a curiosity. Bonhams sold an 18k pink gold example in Hong Kong in December 2022, case number 826,301, on an 18k gold bracelet; Sotheby's had sold the same watch in Geneva in June 2020 with the bracelet identified as Gay Frères and the case number matching. Artcurial sold an 18K rose gold watch, case number 1,177,843, with its box and guarantee, silver dial, rose-gold markers and rose-gold leaf hands. Bonhams catalogued a further 18K rose gold example with caliber 1560 in February 2019. The pink-gold watches produce the strongest results on the reference.
===The two-tone 1005===
 
Bonhams catalogued a circa-1971 steel-and-gold example with a gold fluted bezel, white dial with black Roman numerals, luminous-tipped gilt baton markers, and steel-and-gold Oyster bracelet. The lot records the bezel and case materials on the same watch.


===The two-tone 1005===
[[File:Ref 1005 two tone.webp|thumb|right|250px|Gold fluted bezel over a steel case, white dial with black Roman numerals, circa 1971|alt=Gold fluted bezel over a steel case, white dial with black Roman numerals, circa 1971]]
[[File:Ref 1005 two tone.webp|thumb|right|250px|Gold fluted bezel over a steel case, white dial with black Roman numerals, circa 1971|alt=Gold fluted bezel over a steel case, white dial with black Roman numerals, circa 1971]]
Steel-and-gold 1005s pair a steel case and steel-and-gold Oyster bracelet with a gold fluted bezel and gold-toned dial furniture. Bonhams sold a 1971 example in Paris with a white dial carrying black Roman numerals and applied luminous-tipped gilt baton markers, gross weight 71.30 grams. The configuration is the closest the reference comes to a Datejust, and it is the one where the gold-bezel-on-steel rule is most visible.


===Coca-Cola service awards===
===Coca-Cola service awards===


The Coca-Cola twenty-five-year service programme, which is best documented on the [[Reference:1003|1003]], reached the 1005 as well. Artcurial sold a 14k yellow gold example delivered to the American market, case number 3,921,444, circa 1974, with the caseback engraved "Th. Rummens 25 years service Coca-Cola" on the outside and "RWC LTD" for Rolex Watch Company Limited on the inside. Heritage catalogued a separate 14k example with a hand-painted Coca-Cola inscription on a silver dial. Between them the two lots show the award appearing as a caseback engraving on one watch and as dial printing on another, which matches the pattern across the family.
Auction records show Coca-Cola service inscriptions on two 1005s. Artcurial catalogued 14k case 3,921,444, circa 1974, with an outside caseback engraving for “Th. Rummens 25 years service Coca-Cola” and an inside “RWC LTD” stamp. Heritage catalogued a separate 14k example with a hand-painted Coca-Cola inscription on a silver dial. The records show the inscription on the caseback of one watch and on the dial of another.


==Auction record==
==Auction record==


Gold cases keep the 1005 in a higher band than its plain-bezel siblings, and results cluster in the low-to-mid four figures across yellow gold, two-tone and steel-with-gold-bezel examples. Pink gold is the exception and roughly doubles it. The strongest documented result is an 18k pink-gold watch with a champagne dial and a matching gold bracelet, which has now traded twice at major houses two years apart. Complete sets carry a premium here as elsewhere, and two of the reference's more interesting lots, the Coca-Cola award and an early yellow-gold example, both failed to sell on estimates that sat above where the market has been settling.
The sale records below include yellow gold, pink gold, two-tone, and steel cases with gold bezels. Case 826,301 appears in both Sotheby’s 2020 and Bonhams 2022 catalogues; these are two appearances of the same watch. Two other lots were unsold at their estimates. Results reflect these lots and do not establish a general price range for the reference.


{| class="wikitable"
{| class="wikitable"
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! configuration
! configuration
! result
! result
|-
| Jun 2020
| Sotheby's Geneva, Watches Weekly, lot 263
| 18k pink gold, case 826,301, bracelet identified as Gay Frères
| result not shown in the cited catalogue
|-
|-
| Dec 2022
| Dec 2022
Line 214: Line 215:
== Related references ==
== Related references ==


* [[Reference:1002|Oyster Perpetual 1002]] — 34mm, smooth bezel
* [[Reference:1002|Oyster Perpetual 1002]]: 34mm, smooth bezel
* [[Reference:1003|Oyster Perpetual 1003]] — 34mm, engine-turned bezel
* [[Reference:1003|Oyster Perpetual 1003]]: 34mm, engine-turned bezel
* [[Reference:1007|Oyster Perpetual 1007]] — 34mm, engine-turned bezel
* [[Reference:1007|Oyster Perpetual 1007]]: 34mm, engine-turned bezel
* [[Reference:1018|Oyster Perpetual 1018]] — the 36mm case in the same line
* [[Reference:1018|Oyster Perpetual 1018]]: the 36mm case in the same line
* [[Reference:5500|Air-King 5500]] — the same case, non-chronometer
* [[Reference:5500|Air-King 5500]]: the same case, non-chronometer
* [[Reference:1016|Explorer 1016]] — same calibers, 36mm Explorer dial
* [[Reference:1016|Explorer 1016]]: same calibers, 36mm Explorer dial


See also the [[Reference:oyster-perpetual|Oyster Perpetual family index]], [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|bracelet & clasp guide]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial numbers by year]].
See also the [[Reference:oyster-perpetual|Oyster Perpetual family index]], [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|bracelet & clasp guide]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial numbers by year]].
<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
File:Ref 1005 hero.webp|Whole-watch view, yellow gold and champagne dial
File:Ref 1005 pink gold.webp|Pink-gold example
File:Ref 1005 two tone.webp|Two-tone case with gold bezel
File:Ref 1005 yellow gold.webp|Champagne dial and fluted bezel
File:Ref 1005 textured gold.webp|Integrated textured-gold bracelet
File:Ref 1005 bracelet.webp|14K case on an 18K Oyster bracelet
</gallery>


== Sources ==
== Sources ==
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* Heritage Auctions, "Heritage New York Watches & Fine Timepieces Lot 54187 — Rolex ref 1005 18k gold catalogued with a smooth bezel", Heritage Auctions, 2016-10-27
* Heritage Auctions, "Heritage New York Watches & Fine Timepieces Lot 54187 — Rolex ref 1005 18k gold catalogued with a smooth bezel", Heritage Auctions, 2016-10-27
* [https://www.collectorsquare.com/en/watches/rolex/oyster-perpetual/ref-rolex-1005/lpi Collector Square, "Rolex Oyster Perpetual ref. 1005 — auction and second-hand price index", Collector Square]
* [https://www.collectorsquare.com/en/watches/rolex/oyster-perpetual/ref-rolex-1005/lpi Collector Square, "Rolex Oyster Perpetual ref. 1005 — auction and second-hand price index", Collector Square]
* [https://www.rolexforums.com/showthread.php?t=856109 Rolex Forums, "Rolex Oyster Perpetual ref. 1023 | Solid 14kt Gold", wtp123, 24 May 2022]
* [https://www.the-saleroom.com/de-de/auction-catalogues/gardiner-houlgate/catalogue-id-srgard10204/pdfexport Gardiner Houlgate, 20 May 2025, lot 73, ref. 1023, inner caseback no. 1005]


[[Category:Oyster Perpetual]]
[[Category:Oyster Perpetual]]
[[Category:References]]
[[Category:References]]
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