Reference:1003: Difference between revisions
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The Rolex 1003 is a no-date Oyster Perpetual with an engine-turned bezel. Auction catalogues use several descriptions for the bezel, including “milled,” “ridged” and “graduated engine-turned.” The 1003 shares the 34mm case family with the smooth-bezel [[Reference:1002|1002]], but catalogue markings vary: some steel examples have 1002 stamped inside the caseback, while gold examples have been listed with 1005 there. | The Rolex 1003 is a no-date Oyster Perpetual with an engine-turned bezel. Auction catalogues use several descriptions for the bezel, including “milled,” “ridged” and “graduated engine-turned.” The 1003 shares the 34mm case family with the smooth-bezel [[Reference:1002|1002]], but catalogue markings vary: some steel examples have 1002 stamped inside the caseback, while gold examples have been listed with 1005 there. | ||
Auction | Auction catalogues document steel and gold cases, British-market 9-carat examples, personalized dials and watches catalogued with Air-King dials. | ||
==Core facts== | ==Core facts== | ||
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|- | |- | ||
| production | | production | ||
| dated auction examples run from circa 1960 to the late 1970s | | dated auction examples run from circa 1960 to the late 1970s | ||
|- | |- | ||
| case diameter | | case diameter | ||
| Line 71: | Line 71: | ||
|- | |- | ||
| caseback | | caseback | ||
| screw-down, | | screw-down; some examples carry 1002 or 1005 inside, and Antiquorum says the backs could be interchanged at the factory | ||
|- | |- | ||
| paired designations | | paired designations | ||
| Line 85: | Line 85: | ||
==Where it sits in the line== | ==Where it sits in the line== | ||
The 1003 is one of the engine-turned-bezel references in the four-digit Oyster Perpetual line. The [[Reference:1002|1002]] has a smooth bezel; the [[Reference:1005|1005]] is associated with the fluted gold bezel. References | The 1003 is one of the engine-turned-bezel references in the four-digit Oyster Perpetual line. The [[Reference:1002|1002]] has a smooth bezel; the [[Reference:1005|1005]] is associated with the fluted gold bezel. References 1006, [[Reference:1007|1007]] and 1008 also appear with engine-turned bezels. Auction records use paired designations such as 1003/1002 or 1003/1005, reflecting the different numbers found between the lugs and inside the caseback. The [[Reference:1018|1018]] is the 36mm model in this family. | ||
==Production outline== | ==Production outline== | ||
Auction catalogues | Auction catalogues place individual examples from around 1960 through the late 1970s. Cases 512,833 and 573,835 are circa 1960; a Glasgow import mark is dated 1961; case 531,734 is circa 1966; case 3,044,042 dates to 1972; case 3,960,865 to circa 1975; and case 5,426,177 to 1977. Antiquorum’s 2004 lot says another watch was produced in the late 1970s and had previously sold in January 1980. | ||
==Movement notes== | ==Movement notes== | ||
Watch-Wiki lists calibers 1560 and 1570 for the 1003. Bonhams’ September 2024 catalogue entry lists a caliber 1530, movement 98,643, in case 573,835, with a chronometer certificate dated 22 December 1960. Bonhams also recorded a caliber 1530 in a 1002. Treat the 1530 as a catalogue outlier; the reproduction does not establish factory fitment. | |||
Auction records document 1560 and 1570 | Auction records document both 1560 and 1570 examples. Caliber 1560 beats at 18,000 vph; caliber 1570 runs at 19,800 vph. See [[Reference:Movements|the movement index]] for the full lineage. | ||
==Dial map== | ==Dial map== | ||
Silvered | Silvered dials recur in the auction records, with sunburst or satiné finishes, baton or dart markers, luminous dots and chronometer text. Individual lots show a blue Air-King dial on a watch catalogued as 1003/1002, British-market gold examples with gilt darts and Arabic quarters, and corporate logos including Coca-Cola and Diesel Power. Artcurial described its circa-1966 Diesel Power dial as patinated cream. Sotheby’s catalogued its 2021 steel dial as silvered; photographs show heavy spotting and rose-toned markers. | ||
[[File:Ref 1003 air king dial.webp|thumb|right|250px|Blue Air-King dial in a steel case catalogued as ref 1003/1002, made 1964|alt=Blue Air-King dial in a steel case catalogued as ref 1003/1002, made 1964]] | [[File:Ref 1003 air king dial.webp|thumb|right|250px|Blue Air-King dial in a steel case catalogued as ref 1003/1002, made 1964|alt=Blue Air-King dial in a steel case catalogued as ref 1003/1002, made 1964]] | ||
==Case, bezel, crystal, and crown== | ==Case, bezel, crystal, and crown== | ||
The 1003 | The 1003 has a 34mm Oyster case with 19mm lugs. Auction listings give diameters from 33mm to 35mm and thicknesses around 12mm. Examples have screw-down backs and crowns and acrylic crystals. | ||
The bezel is engine-turned. Auction houses also | The bezel is engine-turned. Auction houses also call it “milled,” “ridged” or “semi engine-turned”; Antiquorum describes some examples as graduated with hour divisions. Terminology varies across catalogues, and their descriptions rarely give enough detail to compare the cut pattern. | ||
Catalogued cases include stainless steel, 14k and 18k yellow gold, and British-market 9-carat gold. In the Coca-Cola 1003/1005 auction record, Antiquorum explains that the number between the lugs identifies the watch’s bezel reference while the inside caseback bears the case reference. Other lots show the same paired-number pattern. | Catalogued cases include stainless steel, 14k and 18k yellow gold, and British-market 9-carat gold. In the Coca-Cola 1003/1005 auction record, Antiquorum explains that the number between the lugs identifies the watch’s bezel reference while the inside caseback bears the case reference. Other lots show the same paired-number pattern. | ||
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==Bracelets, end links, and clasps== | ==Bracelets, end links, and clasps== | ||
Auction examples show steel riveted and folded Oyster bracelets, gold bracelets, and leather straps with signed buckles. | Auction examples show steel riveted and folded Oyster bracelets, gold bracelets, and leather straps with signed buckles. The listings establish what accompanied each watch at sale. A clasp date belongs to the bracelet, not the watch head. See [[Reference:Bracelets|the bracelet and clasp guide]]. | ||
==Special branches== | ==Special branches== | ||
===The Coca-Cola service awards=== | ===The Coca-Cola service awards=== | ||
Three Antiquorum catalogue appearances cover two or possibly three 18k Coca-Cola 1003 watches. Case 5,426,177 is dated 1977 and appears in Antiquorum’s 2006 sale and Sotheby’s 2014 sale. Case 3,044,042 is dated 1972 and appears in Antiquorum’s 2007 sale. Antiquorum’s 2004 New York lot 118 describes an 18k 1003/1002 produced in the late 1970s and previously sold in January 1980. The catalogue omits its case number. It could be a separate watch or case 5,426,177. Antiquorum notes that case bodies and backs were interchangeable, so the paired designation cannot identify it. Watch Club separately lists a 14ct gold 1003 as a 1961 presentation watch. The dealer attributes the commission to Coca-Cola; its photograph shows an engraving naming Sal Eaton and dating the presentation to 1 September 1961. Christie’s catalogued a 14k 1002 with a Coca-Cola dial. Artcurial’s separate 14k 1005, case 3,921,444, has a Coca-Cola service engraving for Th. Rummens on the caseback. Heritage catalogued another 14k 1005 with a hand-painted Coca-Cola dial inscription; its condition report says the dial was refinished, leaving the mark’s date and maker undetermined. | |||
<gallery mode="packed" heights="180"> | <gallery mode="packed" heights="180"> | ||
File:Ref 1003 coca cola full.webp| | File:Ref 1003 coca cola full.webp|Watch Club’s dealer-listed 14ct gold 1003, dated 1961 | ||
File:Ref 1003 coca cola.webp|The | File:Ref 1003 coca cola.webp|The dial on 18k case 5,426,177, catalogued circa 1977 by Antiquorum and Sotheby’s | ||
File:Ref 1003 coca cola caseback.webp| | File:Ref 1003 coca cola caseback.webp|Engraving naming Sal Eaton and giving the presentation date as 1 September 1961 | ||
</gallery> | </gallery> | ||
===The Sotheby's “Minnie Mouse”=== | ===The Sotheby's “Minnie Mouse”=== | ||
Sotheby’s catalogued a steel watch as “Reference 1003 Air-King ‘Minnie Mouse’” in 2020. Its silvered dial carries Air-King and Precision text, with a printed Minnie Mouse figure between the centre and six o’clock. Sotheby’s lists case 3,011,703, an inner caseback stamped 1002, caliber 1570 | Sotheby’s catalogued a steel watch as “Reference 1003 Air-King ‘Minnie Mouse’” in 2020. Its silvered dial carries Air-King and Precision text, with a printed Minnie Mouse figure between the centre and six o’clock. Sotheby’s lists case 3,011,703, an inner caseback stamped 1002, caliber 1570 and a 33mm case. | ||
[[File:Ref 1003 minnie mouse.webp|thumb|right|250px|The printed character sits between the centre and six, under Air-King and PRECISION text|alt=The printed character sits between the centre and six, under Air-King and PRECISION text]] | [[File:Ref 1003 minnie mouse.webp|thumb|right|250px|The printed character sits between the centre and six, under Air-King and PRECISION text|alt=The printed character sits between the centre and six, under Air-King and PRECISION text]] | ||
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===The Diesel Power Company dial=== | ===The Diesel Power Company dial=== | ||
Artcurial catalogued a 14k yellow-gold 1003, case 531,734, circa 1966, with a cream dial bearing a Diesel Power Company logo. The | Artcurial catalogued a 14k yellow-gold 1003, case 531,734, circa 1966, with a cream dial bearing a Diesel Power Company logo. The catalogue leaves the dial maker and installer unidentified. | ||
===British-market gold cases=== | ===British-market gold cases=== | ||
Bonhams catalogued three 1003 examples in 9-carat gold. One carries a Glasgow import mark dated 1961 and a caliber 1560; | Bonhams catalogued three 1003 examples in 9-carat gold. One carries a Glasgow import mark dated 1961 and a caliber 1560; case 512,833 was catalogued circa 1960 with a butterfly rotor; a third was offered with a 9ct gold bracelet and a 1966 receipt. The import mark dates the case, while the receipt records the documented purchase. See [[Reference:Serial-numbers|the serial-number guide]] for assay-date context. | ||
==Auction record== | ==Auction record== | ||
Antiquorum sold case 5,426,177 for CHF 11,800 in 2006; Sotheby’s reported CHF 37,500 when it resold the watch in 2014. The table gives each result in the sale currency. | |||
{| class="wikitable" | {| class="wikitable" | ||
| Line 154: | Line 152: | ||
! result | ! result | ||
|- | |- | ||
| | | Sep 2024 | ||
| | | Bonhams, Weekly Montres, lot 84 | ||
| | | steel, cal 1530, case 573,835; certificate dated 22 December 1960 | ||
| | | GBP 960 | ||
|- | |- | ||
| | | Jun 2021 | ||
| | | Sotheby's Geneva, Fine Watches, lot 42 | ||
| | | steel, dial catalogued as silvered; photographs show spotting, cal 1570, case 3,960,865 | ||
| CHF 2,142 | |||
| CHF | |||
|- | |- | ||
| Oct 2020 | | Oct 2020 | ||
| Sotheby's New York, Watches, lot 97 | | Sotheby's New York, Watches, lot 97 | ||
| steel Air-King 'Minnie Mouse', cal 1570, case 3,011,703, c.1972 | | steel Air-King 'Minnie Mouse', cal 1570, case 3,011,703, c.1972 | ||
| USD 7,560 | | USD 7,560 | ||
|- | |- | ||
| Nov 2017 | | Nov 2017 | ||
| Bonhams London, Watches and Wristwatches, lot 121 | | Bonhams London, Watches and Wristwatches, lot 121 | ||
| 9K gold, Glasgow import mark | | 9K gold, Glasgow import mark dated 1961, cal 1560 | ||
| GBP 2,000 | | GBP 2,000 | ||
|- | |- | ||
| Nov 2016 | | Nov 2016 | ||
| Antiquorum Geneva, lot 38 | | Antiquorum Geneva, lot 38 | ||
| steel with Air-King dial | | steel with Air-King dial, case 1,197,501, made 1964 | ||
| CHF 1,875 | | CHF 1,875 | ||
|- | |||
| May 2014 | |||
| Sotheby's Geneva, Important Watches, lot 216 | |||
| 18k gold Coca-Cola, ref. 1003/1005, case 5,426,177, circa 1977 | |||
| CHF 37,500 | |||
|- | |||
| Jul 2011 | |||
| Artcurial Monte-Carlo, Fine Watches, lot 406 | |||
| 14k yellow gold, Diesel Power Company service dial, case 531,734, c.1966 | |||
| EUR 4,335 | |||
|- | |- | ||
| Dec 2007 | | Dec 2007 | ||
| Line 199: | Line 192: | ||
| USD 1,440 | | USD 1,440 | ||
|- | |- | ||
| | | Oct 2007 | ||
| | | Antiquorum Geneva, Important Collectors' Watches, lot 486 | ||
| | | yellow gold Coca-Cola, ref. 1003/1005, case 3,044,042, 1972 | ||
| | | CHF 12,980 | ||
|- | |||
| May 2006 | |||
| Antiquorum Geneva, The Mondani Collection, lot 111 | |||
| 18k yellow gold Coca-Cola, case 5,426,177, 1977 | |||
| CHF 11,800 | |||
|- | |||
| Mar 2004 | |||
| Antiquorum New York, lot 118 | |||
| 18k gold Coca-Cola, ref. 1003/1002; case number unreported; catalogue says produced late 1970s and previously sold January 1980 | |||
| USD 4,140 | |||
|} | |} | ||
== Related references == | == Related references == | ||
* [[Reference:1002|Oyster Perpetual 1002]] | * [[Reference:1002|Oyster Perpetual 1002]], 34mm, smooth bezel | ||
* [[Reference:1005|Oyster Perpetual 1005]] | * [[Reference:1005|Oyster Perpetual 1005]], 34mm, fluted gold bezel | ||
* [[Reference:1007|Oyster Perpetual 1007]] | * [[Reference:1007|Oyster Perpetual 1007]], 34mm, engine-turned bezel | ||
* [[Reference:1018|Oyster Perpetual 1018]] | * [[Reference:1018|Oyster Perpetual 1018]]: the 36mm case in the same line | ||
* [[Reference:5500|Air-King 5500]] | * [[Reference:5500|Air-King 5500]]: the same case, non-chronometer | ||
* [[Reference:1016|Explorer 1016]] | * [[Reference:1016|Explorer 1016]]: same calibers, 36mm Explorer dial | ||
See also the [[Reference:oyster-perpetual|Oyster Perpetual family index]], [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|bracelet & clasp guide]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial numbers by year]]. | See also the [[Reference:oyster-perpetual|Oyster Perpetual family index]], [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|bracelet & clasp guide]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial numbers by year]]. | ||
<gallery mode="packed" heights="180"> | <gallery mode="packed" heights="180"> | ||
File:Ref 1003 hero.webp|Whole-watch view, steel 1003 | File:Ref 1003 hero.webp|Whole-watch view, steel 1003 | ||
File:Ref 1003 coca cola full.webp| | File:Ref 1003 coca cola full.webp|Watch Club’s dealer-listed 14ct gold 1003, dated 1961 | ||
File:Ref 1003 minnie mouse.webp|Air-King character dial in a 1003-marked case | File:Ref 1003 minnie mouse.webp|Air-King character dial in a 1003-marked case | ||
File:Ref 1003 coca cola.webp|Coca-Cola service dial | File:Ref 1003 coca cola.webp|Coca-Cola service dial on 18k case 5,426,177, catalogued circa 1977 | ||
File:Ref 1003 air king dial.webp|Blue Air-King dial in a 1003/1002 catalogue example | File:Ref 1003 air king dial.webp|Blue Air-King dial in a 1003/1002 catalogue example | ||
File:Ref 1003 nine carat.webp|British-market 9K case and dial detail | File:Ref 1003 nine carat.webp|British-market 9K case and dial detail | ||
File:Ref 1003 coca cola caseback.webp|Coca-Cola service engraving on caseback | File:Ref 1003 coca cola caseback.webp|Coca-Cola service engraving on the caseback, dated 1 September 1961 | ||
</gallery> | </gallery> | ||
== Sources == | == Sources == | ||
* [https://www.watchclub.com/rolex/oyster-perpetual/extremelyrarevintage-ref-1003-year-1961 Watch Club, Rolex Oyster Perpetual ref. 1003, 14ct gold, dealer-listed as 1961] | |||
* [https://www.watch-wiki.net/doku.php?id=rolex_calibres Watch Wiki, "Rolex calibres — reference index", Watch Wiki (watch-wiki.net)] | * [https://www.watch-wiki.net/doku.php?id=rolex_calibres Watch Wiki, "Rolex calibres — reference index", Watch Wiki (watch-wiki.net)] | ||
* [https://beckertime.com/blog/the-review-of-the-rolex-oyster-perpetual-ref-1005/ BeckerTime, "Review: The Rolex Oyster Perpetual ref. 1005", BeckerTime, 2022-09-11] | * [https://beckertime.com/blog/the-review-of-the-rolex-oyster-perpetual-ref-1005/ BeckerTime, "Review: The Rolex Oyster Perpetual ref. 1005", BeckerTime, 2022-09-11] | ||
* Sotheby's, | * [https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2014/important-watches-ge1401/lot.216.html Sotheby's Geneva, lot 216 — Rolex ref 1003/1005 Coca-Cola 25 Years of Service, 2014-05-14] | ||
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-108-111 Antiquorum, "Antiquorum Geneva The Mondani Collection Lot 111 — Rolex ref 1003/1005 Coca-Cola", Antiquorum, 2006-05-14] | * [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-108-111 Antiquorum, "Antiquorum Geneva The Mondani Collection Lot 111 — Rolex ref 1003/1005 Coca-Cola", Antiquorum, 2006-05-14] | ||
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-171-486 Antiquorum, "Antiquorum Geneva Important Collectors' Watches Lot 486 — Rolex ref 1003/1005 Coca-Cola 1972", Antiquorum, 2007-10-14] | * [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-171-486 Antiquorum, "Antiquorum Geneva Important Collectors' Watches Lot 486 — Rolex ref 1003/1005 Coca-Cola 1972", Antiquorum, 2007-10-14] | ||
* Antiquorum, " | * [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-49-118 Antiquorum, "Important Collector's Wristwatches, lot 118 — Rolex ref 1003/1002 Coca-Cola", 2004-03-24] | ||
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2020/watches-5/rolex-reference-1003-air-king-minnie-mouse-a | * [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2020/watches-5/rolex-reference-1003-air-king-minnie-mouse-a Sotheby's New York, lot 97 — Rolex ref 1003 Air-King "Minnie Mouse", 2020-10-29] | ||
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-1003-1002-lot-302-38 Antiquorum, "Antiquorum Geneva Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces Lot 38 — Rolex ref 1003/1002 with Air-King dial", Antiquorum, 2016-11-13] | * [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-1003-1002-lot-302-38 Antiquorum, "Antiquorum Geneva Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces Lot 38 — Rolex ref 1003/1002 with Air-King dial", Antiquorum, 2016-11-13] | ||
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2021/fine-watches-3/oyster-perpetual-ref-1003-stainless-steel Sotheby's, "Sotheby's Geneva Fine Watches Lot 42 — Rolex ref 1003 steel milled bezel circa 1975", Sotheby's, 2021-06-24] | * [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2021/fine-watches-3/oyster-perpetual-ref-1003-stainless-steel Sotheby's, "Sotheby's Geneva Fine Watches Lot 42 — Rolex ref 1003 steel milled bezel circa 1975", Sotheby's, 2021-06-24] | ||
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/24234/lot/121/ Bonhams, "Bonhams London Watches and Wristwatches Lot 121 — Rolex ref 1003 9K gold, Glasgow import 1961", Bonhams, 2017-11-21] | * [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/24234/lot/121/ Bonhams, "Bonhams London Watches and Wristwatches Lot 121 — Rolex ref 1003 9K gold, Glasgow import 1961", Bonhams, 2017-11-21] | ||
* | * [https://www.collectorsquare.com/en/watches/rolex/oyster-perpetual/ref-rolex-1003/lpi Bonhams New York, lot 125 — Rolex ref 1003 9k gold circa 1960; record mirrored by Collector Square] | ||
* | * [https://www.collectorsquare.com/en/watches/rolex/oyster-perpetual/ref-rolex-1003/lpi Artcurial Monte-Carlo, lot 406 — Rolex ref 1003 14k gold with Diesel Power service dial; record mirrored by Collector Square] | ||
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6193990 Christie's Dubai, lot 6 — Rolex ref 1002/1005 Coca-Cola 25 Years Service, 2019-12-12] | |||
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6193990 Christie's, | * [https://www.gazette-drouot.com/en/auctions/142294-horlogerie-de-collection?modeDiapo=false&page=2 Gazette Drouot reproduction of Artcurial lot 286 — Rolex ref. 1005 Coca-Cola, 2023] | ||
* | * [https://jewelry.ha.com/itm/timepieces/rolex-ref-1005-gold-oyster-perpetual-damaged-back/a/5279-54225.s Heritage Auctions, New York, Watches & Fine Timepieces lot 54225 — Rolex ref. 1005, 27 October 2016] | ||
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/30130/lot/27/ Bonhams, "Bonhams Watches Online Lot 27 — Rolex ref 1002 caliber 1530, purchased 1962", Bonhams, 2024-03-01] | * [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/30130/lot/27/ Bonhams, "Bonhams Watches Online Lot 27 — Rolex ref 1002 caliber 1530, purchased 1962", Bonhams, 2024-03-01] | ||
* [https://www.collectorsquare.com/en/watches/rolex/oyster-perpetual/ref-rolex-1003/lpi Collector Square | * [https://www.collectorsquare.com/en/watches/rolex/oyster-perpetual/ref-rolex-1003/lpi Collector Square — Rolex Oyster Perpetual ref. 1003 auction index, including Bonhams lot 84] | ||
[[Category:Oyster Perpetual]] | [[Category:Oyster Perpetual]] | ||
[[Category:References]] | [[Category:References]] | ||