Reference:16808: Difference between revisions

Tom Mulraney and Christie’s place the 16808 around 1979–1987. The Field Manual’s table gives the same span, while its running text says “Launched in 1977.” Auction records add dated examples: Christie’s catalogues case 6,412,142 as circa 1979 with a guarantee dated August 1982; Phillips dates case 6,667,544 to circa 1981; and Sotheby’s dates case 9,623,728 to circa 1987. Catalogue dates are estimates for those watches, not a serial-year conversion for every 16808.

The bezel insert came in blue or black aluminum, usually paired with a dial of the same color. Tom Mulraney dates the move to a ratcheting unidirectional bezel on the steel 16800 to around 1981. For the gold 16808, date the bezel feature from the individual watch; the 16800’s 1981 change supplies context, not a serial cutoff.

The 16808 is documented with blue or black dials and matching blue or black bezel inserts. The markers are applied gold. Early examples use nipple-style markers, with a raised gold center around a luminous plot; flatter luminous markers also appear in the reference’s documented run. Tom Mulraney describes that marker change, while Sotheby’s catalogued a circa-1987 nipple-dial example. The dated examples place both styles in the production run, without a secure serial cutoff between them.

Gold Oyster bracelets appear on the catalogued watches. An archived circa-1980 listing records a 9958 bracelet with 46 end links. Phillips records a circa-1981 example with clasp stamp 92908 and end links marked 46. Tom Mulraney describes hollow end links on this generation before the later solid-end-link Submariners. Check the hardware and records on each watch; these lots do not establish a universal fitment sequence.