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Reference:1002: Difference between revisions

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Deep audit: ground 1002 case attribution, caliber, material, dial and auction claims
Bound 1002 bracelet and related-reference prose
 
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|-
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| certification
| certification
| Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified
| chronometer dials and certificates are documented on many examples; verify the individual watch
|-
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| date complication
| date complication
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|-
|-
| oversized relative
| oversized relative
| [[Reference:1018
| [[Reference:1018|1018]], the 36mm case
| 1018]], the 36mm case
|}
|}


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==Dial map==
==Dial map==
<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
File:Ref 1002 gold.webp|Black gloss dial with applied brushed gilt batons on an 18k gold 1002, circa 1968, on its 7205 gold rivet bracelet
File:Ref 1002 explorer dial.webp|Black 3-6-9 dial with Mercedes hands in a 34mm case catalogued as a 1002; unsold at Bonhams in 2020 and again in 2021
File:Ref 1002 dial.webp|Blue dial on a steel 1002, Antiquorum New York April 2015 lot 213, case 2,668,283, made 1970
File:Ref 1002 dial-detail.webp|Champagne dial on an 18k gold 1002, Sotheby's Geneva June 2020 lot 262, retailed by Astrua, c.1969
</gallery>


The 1002 record includes silvered, white, grey, blue, champagne, gilt, black, Arabic, and special-signed dials. The auction sample is not a complete factory catalogue, and unusual dials require provenance and originality checks.
The 1002 record includes silvered, white, grey, blue, champagne, gilt, black, Arabic, and special-signed dials. The auction sample is not a complete factory catalogue, and unusual dials require provenance and originality checks.
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Unusual colour or printing should be compared with documented examples. A single unusual dial is evidence to investigate, not proof of a factory variant or a repaint.
Unusual colour or printing should be compared with documented examples. A single unusual dial is evidence to investigate, not proof of a factory variant or a repaint.
<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
File:Ref 1002 gold.webp|Black gloss dial with applied brushed gilt batons on an 18k gold 1002, circa 1968, on its 7205 gold rivet bracelet
File:Ref 1002 explorer dial.webp|Black 3-6-9 dial with Mercedes hands in a 34mm case catalogued as a 1002; unsold at Bonhams in 2020 and again in 2021
File:Ref 1002 dial.webp|Blue dial on a steel 1002, Antiquorum New York April 2015 lot 213, case 2,668,283, made 1970
File:Ref 1002 dial-detail.webp|Champagne dial on an 18k gold 1002, Sotheby's Geneva June 2020 lot 262, retailed by Astrua, c.1969
</gallery>


==Case, bezel, crystal, and crown==
==Case, bezel, crystal, and crown==
[[File:Ref 1002 nine carat.webp|thumb|right|250px|British-market 9k gold case catalogued under the paired designation 1002/8, circa 1965, on a 9k gold bracelet|alt=British-market 9k gold case catalogued under the paired designation 1002/8, circa 1965, on a 9k gold bracelet]]
The 1002 is a small Oyster case with drilled 19mm lugs, screw-down components, and a smooth bezel. Auction measurements range from roughly 33 to 35.5mm, so record the method and the individual measurement rather than treating 34mm as exact.
The 1002 is a small Oyster case with drilled 19mm lugs, screw-down components, and a smooth bezel. Auction measurements range from roughly 33 to 35.5mm, so record the method and the individual measurement rather than treating 34mm as exact.


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Caseback and between-lug markings can refer to the reference, case-middle, material, or paired designation. The cited lots show 1002, 1005, 1002/1005, and related combinations. Record the marks, hallmarks, date code, movement, and dial together; do not infer the complete watch from one stamp.
Caseback and between-lug markings can refer to the reference, case-middle, material, or paired designation. The cited lots show 1002, 1005, 1002/1005, and related combinations. Record the marks, hallmarks, date code, movement, and dial together; do not infer the complete watch from one stamp.
[[File:Ref 1002 nine carat.webp|thumb|right|250px|British-market 9k gold case catalogued under the paired designation 1002/8, circa 1965, on a 9k gold bracelet|alt=British-market 9k gold case catalogued under the paired designation 1002/8, circa 1965, on a 9k gold bracelet]]


==Bracelets, end links, and clasps==
==Bracelets, end links, and clasps==


Steel delivery through the 1960s was the 7205 rivet Oyster in 19mm with 57 end links and a signed folding clasp. From the late 1960s the folded-link 78350 on 557 end links takes over, and Christie's documented the changeover on one watch directly: a 1967 example that left the factory on a 7205, came to auction on a 78350 stamped 19, and carried a Rolex invoice dated 28 March 1989 recording the bracelet replacement and an overhaul. Jubilee bracelets are original on plenty of examples, in steel and in gold, and gold watches also went out on gold fold-over bracelets and on leather with a signed buckle.
The cited examples include 7205 rivet, 78350 folded-link, Jubilee, gold, and leather fitments. One 1967 example left the factory on a 7205 and later appeared on a 78350 with a 1989 Rolex invoice documenting replacement. Bracelet and clasp evidence belongs to the bracelet, not automatically to the watch head.


A clasp date code dates the bracelet and nothing else. Sixty years of servicing has separated most 1002 heads from what they left on, and a later clasp stamp under an earlier case is ordinary wear history. One Bonhams lot carries a caseback stamped II.62 under a clasp stamped 1 64, which is exactly the kind of small mismatch that is normal rather than suspicious. The cross-family detail sits on [[Reference:Bracelets|the bracelet and clasp guide]].
A clasp date code dates the bracelet and nothing else. A later clasp stamp under an earlier case can reflect replacement or service history; it should be assessed against the watch’s papers and component condition. One Bonhams lot carries a caseback stamped II.62 under a clasp stamped 1 64, which is exactly the kind of small mismatch that is normal rather than suspicious. The cross-family detail sits on [[Reference:Bracelets|the bracelet and clasp guide]].


==Special branches==
==Special branches==


===The Al-Sabah dial===
===The Al-Sabah dial===
Christie’s sold a steel 1002 with Sheikh Abdullah Al-Jaber Al-Sabah’s signature in 2021. The lot provides a documented Gulf-market personalized dial with its own papers and service history. Antiquorum also recorded an Arabic-dial steel 1002 in 2017. These lots do not establish a complete regional-dial program.
[[File:Ref 1002 al-sabah.webp|thumb|right|300px|The signature of Sheikh Abdullah Al-Jaber Al-Sabah printed below the centre, above the chronometer line|alt=The signature of Sheikh Abdullah Al-Jaber Al-Sabah printed below the centre, above the chronometer line]]
[[File:Ref 1002 al-sabah.webp|thumb|right|300px|The signature of Sheikh Abdullah Al-Jaber Al-Sabah printed below the centre, above the chronometer line|alt=The signature of Sheikh Abdullah Al-Jaber Al-Sabah printed below the centre, above the chronometer line]]


Christie’s sold a steel 1002 with Sheikh Abdullah Al-Jaber Al-Sabah’s signature in 2021. The lot provides a documented Gulf-market personalized dial with its own papers and service history. Antiquorum also recorded an Arabic-dial steel 1002 in 2017. These lots do not establish a complete regional-dial program.
 


===Coca-Cola service awards===
===Coca-Cola service awards===
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===Retailer signatures===
===Retailer signatures===


Astrua, the Turin retailer, signed a champagne-dial 18k gold 1002 that Sotheby's sold in Geneva in June 2020 with its Rolex guarantee and COSC certificate. Retailer-signed 100x dials are more often found on the gold [[Reference:1007|1007]], where Tiffany & Co. and Serpico y Laino examples are documented, and the 1002's retailer branch is thinner than its production volume would suggest.
Astrua, the Turin retailer, signed a champagne-dial 18k gold 1002 that Sotheby's sold in Geneva in June 2020 with its Rolex guarantee and COSC certificate. Tiffany & Co. and Serpico y Laino signatures are documented on related gold 100x references; the 1002 retailer sample cited here is limited to the Astrua example.


===Air-King dials in 1002 cases===
===Air-King dials in 1002 cases===
[[File:Ref 1002 air king.webp|thumb|right|250px|An Air-King dial in the shared case, catalogued by Bonhams as ref 1002, circa 1976|alt=An Air-King dial in the shared case, catalogued by Bonhams as ref 1002, circa 1976]]


Bonhams catalogued a steel watch with an Air-King dial and a 1002 case marking. The lot illustrates shared case tooling; the dial, movement, and provenance determine whether the complete watch is an Air-King or Oyster Perpetual.
Bonhams catalogued a steel watch with an Air-King dial and a 1002 case marking. The lot illustrates shared case tooling; the dial, movement, and provenance determine whether the complete watch is an Air-King or Oyster Perpetual.
[[File:Ref 1002 air king.webp|thumb|right|250px|An Air-King dial in the shared case, catalogued by Bonhams as ref 1002, circa 1976|alt=An Air-King dial in a 1002 case]]


==Auction record==
==Auction record==
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* [[Reference:1005|Oyster Perpetual 1005]]: 34mm, fluted gold bezel
* [[Reference:1005|Oyster Perpetual 1005]]: 34mm, fluted gold bezel
* [[Reference:1007|Oyster Perpetual 1007]]: 34mm, engine-turned bezel
* [[Reference:1007|Oyster Perpetual 1007]]: 34mm, engine-turned bezel
* [[Reference:1018|Oyster Perpetual 1018]] — the 36mm case in the same line
* [[Reference:1018|Oyster Perpetual 1018]]: the 36mm case in the same line
* [[Reference:5500|Air-King 5500]]: the same case, non-chronometer
* [[Reference:5500|Air-King 5500]]: the same case, non-chronometer
* [[Reference:1016|Explorer 1016]]: same calibers, 36mm Explorer dial
* [[Reference:1016|Explorer 1016]]: same calibers, 36mm Explorer dial


See also the [[Reference:oyster-perpetual|Oyster Perpetual family index]], [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|bracelet & clasp guide]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial numbers by year]].
See also the [[Reference:oyster-perpetual|Oyster Perpetual family index]], [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|bracelet & clasp guide]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial numbers by year]].
<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
File:Ref 1002 hero.webp|Steel 1002 with smooth bezel and silvered dial
File:Ref 1002 gold.webp|18k gold 1002 with black gloss dial
File:Ref 1002 explorer dial.webp|1002 case with catalogued Explorer dial
File:Ref 1002 dial.webp|Steel 1002 blue dial example
File:Ref 1002 dial-detail.webp|18k gold 1002 champagne dial
File:Ref 1002 nine carat.webp|British 9-carat 1002/8 example
File:Ref 1002 al-sabah.webp|Al-Sabah signed 1002 dial
File:Ref 1002 air king.webp|Air-King dial in a 1002 case
</gallery>


== Sources ==
== Sources ==
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* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5993056 Christie's, "Christie's Geneva Rare Watches Lot 266 — Rolex ref 1002 made for American Heritage", Christie's, 2016-05-16]
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5993056 Christie's, "Christie's Geneva Rare Watches Lot 266 — Rolex ref 1002 made for American Heritage", Christie's, 2016-05-16]
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6193990 Christie's, "Christie's Dubai Important Watches Lot 6 — Rolex ref 1002/1005 Coca-Cola 25 Years Service", Christie's, 2019-12-12]
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6193990 Christie's, "Christie's Dubai Important Watches Lot 6 — Rolex ref 1002/1005 Coca-Cola 25 Years Service", Christie's, 2019-12-12]
* Sotheby's, "Sotheby's Geneva Important Watches Lot 127 — Rolex ref 1002/1005 Coca-Cola", Sotheby's, 2014-11-11
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2014/important-watches-ge1404/lot.127.html Sotheby's, "Rolex ref 1002/1005 Coca-Cola", Geneva Important Watches lot 127, 2014-11-11]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2021/fine-watches-2/reference-1002-oyster-perpetual-a-yellow Sotheby's, "Sotheby's New York Fine Watches Lot 137 — Rolex ref 1002 yellow gold circa 1961", Sotheby's, 2021-03-19]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2021/fine-watches-2/reference-1002-oyster-perpetual-a-yellow Sotheby's, "Sotheby's New York Fine Watches Lot 137 — Rolex ref 1002 yellow gold circa 1961", Sotheby's, 2021-03-19]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2021/watches-13/rolex-reference-1002-a-stainless-steel-wristwatch Sotheby's, "Sotheby's Hong Kong Fine Watches Lot 8044 — Rolex ref 1002 steel circa 1970", Sotheby's, 2021-03-04]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2021/watches-13/rolex-reference-1002-a-stainless-steel-wristwatch Sotheby's, "Sotheby's Hong Kong Fine Watches Lot 8044 — Rolex ref 1002 steel circa 1970", Sotheby's, 2021-03-04]
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