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== Pre-Oyster / Submarine (1922–1926) ==
== Pre-Oyster / Submarine (1922–1926) ==


Before the Oyster was the "Rolex Submarine." Wilsdorf's trademark was registered 31 March 1922, 31 years before the 1953 dive watch. Based on Jean Finger's 1921 Swiss patent for a double-case hermetic design, the inner watch sealed inside an outer protective case with a screw-down bezel. Winding or setting the watch required unscrewing the outer case.
Rolex dates its Submarine to 1922 and describes a watch hinged inside a second case, with a screw-down bezel and crystal; reaching the crown required opening the outer case. David Boettcher distinguishes Hermetic watches sold under the Submarine name from watches branded Rolex. Jean Finger's 1921 Swiss patent CH 89276 describes a stem-wound watch with a protective case. Boettcher notes that Wilsdorf's 1922 British patent describes the same case design but does not name Finger. [https://www.rolex.com/oyster-story/visionary-undertaking/building-an-impenetrable-defence Rolex, “Building an impenetrable defence”]; [https://www.vintagewatchstraps.com/blogrolexhermetic.php Boettcher, “Rolex Hermetic”]; [https://www.vintagewatchstraps.com/blogrolexsubmarine.php Boettcher, “Rolex Submarine?”]


{| class="wikitable" style="width:100%;"
{| class="wikitable" style="width:100%;"
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! Reference !! Production !! Movement !! Case !! Key distinction
! Reference !! Production !! Movement !! Case !! Key distinction
|-
|-
| [[Reference:3666|3666]] || 1924 and circa-1925 examples; span unknown || manual, 15 jewels in catalogues; caliber unconfirmed || 32–33mm silver hinged-case Hermetique || W&D is a sponsor mark, not proof of case maker; a separate 1940 chronograph was also catalogued as 3666
| [[Reference:3666|3666]] || Cargills catalogue: 1924; Bonhams: circa 1925 || Manual, 15 jewels in catalogues; caliber unconfirmed || 32–33mm silver hinged-case Hermetique || Cargills calls its watch “Submarine Hermetique” and reports Rolex signatures; Phillips catalogues a separate 1940 chronograph as ref. 3666 ([https://www.boldtimepieces.co.uk/product-page/1924-rolex-submarine-hermetique-silver-cased-watch-ref-3666-cargills-ltd-ceylon Bold Timepieces]; [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/29150/lot/48/rolex-a-rare-and-unusual-silver-manual-wind-wristwatch-hermetique-ref-3666-circa-1925 Bonhams]; [https://www.the-saleroom.com/de-de/auction-catalogues/watchesofknightsbridge/catalogue-id-srwatc10008/pdfexport Watches of Knightsbridge, lot 376]; [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080216/54 Phillips])
|}
|}


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! Reference !! Production !! Movement !! Case !! Key distinction
! Reference !! Production !! Movement !! Case !! Key distinction
|-
|-
| [[Reference:1925|1925]] || Christie’s dates examples circa 1925, 1928 and to the 1930s; Antiquorum: 1920s; production span unknown || Prima (9′′′/15j and six-position description) and Ultra Prima (15j); caliber unconfirmed || Cushion, faceted tonneau and octagonal; 28 × 28 to 32 × 31mm; gold, silver, nickel || Several lot-specific dials; Bonhams calls 260554 a case number, while an early Oyster caseback shows 260554/1925 as a patent marking
| [[Reference:1925|1925]] || Christie’s dates examples circa 1925, 1928 and to the 1930s; Antiquorum: 1920s; production span unknown || Prima (9′′′/15j and six-position description) and Ultra Prima (15j); caliber unconfirmed || Cushion, faceted tonneau and octagonal; 28 × 28 to 32 × 31mm; gold, silver, nickel || Lot-specific dials; Vintage & Prestige stock W3770 reproduces a 1930 guarantee recording sale on a Milanese band; 260554 is a British winding-crown patent number, while its role in the Bonhams watch’s catalogue field remains unverified
|-
|-
| [[Reference:2081|2081]] || Auction dates range from the 1920s to 1948; span unproved || 10-ligne/15-jewel Prima and 10½-ligne/17-jewel lots; one 1947 lot names Cal. 700, 10½-ligne/15-jewel Extra-Prima || Cushion, 31–32mm; stainless steel, 9K gold and chrome-plated examples || “Standard Oyster,” “Oyster Imperial” and “Oyster Chronometer” catalogue labels; Antiquorum’s steel-only note conflicts with gold and chrome-plated lots
| [[Reference:2081|2081]] || Auction dates range from the 1920s to 1948; span unproved || 10-ligne/15-jewel Prima and 10½-ligne/17-jewel lots; one 1947 lot names Cal. 700, 10½-ligne/15-jewel Extra-Prima || Cushion, 31–32mm; stainless steel, 9K gold and chrome-plated examples || “Standard Oyster,” “Oyster Imperial” and “Oyster Chronometer” catalogue labels; Antiquorum’s steel-only note conflicts with gold and chrome-plated lots
|-
| [[Reference:2280|2280]] || Auction lots circa 1935–43 and “1940s”; limits unknown || Manual, 15–17j; 10½-ligne/17j Superbalance reported; numbered caliber unconfirmed || Tonneau Oyster, 29–33 mm in catalogues; steel and steel/pink-gold || Oyster Royal/Observatory/Royalite names; sector, 12/24-hour and centre- or subsidiary-seconds dials; Oyster and Jubilee bracelet descriptions (Jubilee/date conflict noted on page)
|-
|-
| [[Reference:1069|1069]] || Antiquorum dates lots to 1920s; Christie's circa 1930; span unproved || Manual; 11-ligne/15j movement reported once; other descriptions differ || Cushion; catalogued 30–32mm, steel and silver-plated examples || Solar Aqua/Anti-Magnetic dial; caseback 21836 has a conflicting 1940s seller date
| [[Reference:1069|1069]] || Antiquorum dates lots to 1920s; Christie's circa 1930; span unproved || Manual; 11-ligne/15j movement reported once; other descriptions differ || Cushion; catalogued 30–32mm, steel and silver-plated examples || Solar Aqua/Anti-Magnetic dial; caseback 21836 has a conflicting 1940s seller date
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|-
|-
| [[Reference:2136|2136]] || c.1926–1940 || 10½′′′ Hunter, 15j manual || 32–34mm octagonal / cushion || Early manual-wind gold Oyster; Borgel-lineage three-piece construction; same reference reused c.1960 for a Cal. 1400 Precision
| [[Reference:2136|2136]] || c.1926–1940 || 10½′′′ Hunter, 15j manual || 32–34mm octagonal / cushion || Early manual-wind gold Oyster; Borgel-lineage three-piece construction; same reference reused c.1960 for a Cal. 1400 Precision
|-
| [[Reference:34075|34075]] || Christie’s dates the individual watch 1926; Sotheby’s reports Glasgow marks for 1926/1927; production series unproved || 9¾-ligne Hunter upgraded to Cal. 600, 17j (Sotheby’s) || 9ct gold octagonal case, wire lugs, 31 × 27mm (Christie’s) || Gleitze’s ‘Companion Oyster’; Christie’s calls it No. 34075, Sotheby’s calls it reference 34075; single object record
|-
|-
| [[Reference:2849|2849]] || Christie’s dates examples circa 1936, 1938 and 1940; Antiquorum dates two cases to 1937; production span unproved || Christie’s describes 18-jewel lever/Hunter movements; Antiquorum attributes 17-jewel Cal. 500 to two 1937 watches, with one lot’s stated caliber dates conflicting || 32–33mm; steel examples and one steel-and-gold catalogue description, disputed against a steel-only note || Broad stepped bezel; period “Oyster De Luxe” wording and later “Lifesaver” nickname
| [[Reference:2849|2849]] || Christie’s dates examples circa 1936, 1938 and 1940; Antiquorum dates two cases to 1937; production span unproved || Christie’s describes 18-jewel lever/Hunter movements; Antiquorum attributes 17-jewel Cal. 500 to two 1937 watches, with one lot’s stated caliber dates conflicting || 32–33mm; steel examples and one steel-and-gold catalogue description, disputed against a steel-only note || Broad stepped bezel; period “Oyster De Luxe” wording and later “Lifesaver” nickname
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| [[Reference:1573|1573]] || Auction examples dated circa 1930 through the 1940s; production span unknown || Manual; Antiquorum photo shows 15 jewels; Master of Time assigns Cal. 600 (17 jewels) to one Viceroy example; not confirmed across the reference || Tonneau/tortue; 28–29 × 38–39mm across catalogues; steel, steel/gold-bezel and 9ct gold examples || BEYER-signed black dial and Dobbies attribution documented; Imperial and Viceroy are sale names, not established production variants
| [[Reference:1573|1573]] || Auction examples dated circa 1930 through the 1940s; production span unknown || Manual; Antiquorum photo shows 15 jewels; Master of Time assigns Cal. 600 (17 jewels) to one Viceroy example; not confirmed across the reference || Tonneau/tortue; 28–29 × 38–39mm across catalogues; steel, steel/gold-bezel and 9ct gold examples || BEYER-signed black dial and Dobbies attribution documented; Imperial and Viceroy are sale names, not established production variants
|-
|-
| [[Reference:2416|2416]] || Catalogue examples and marks mainly mid-1930s to circa 1940; range unproved || Manual; 15 jewels reported on several lots; one parts table lists 10½ lignes; numbered caliber unconfirmed || Cushion case, 27–28mm in 9ct examples; one 18ct example || Murdock’s Cape Town signature; dealer-described “England Dial” and Speedking inscriptions; Oyster Watch Co. cases with Rolex/Aegler movements reported
| [[Reference:2280|2280]] || Auction examples circa 1935–1943; production span unconfirmed || Manual; 15–17 jewels in catalogues; Watch LIFE News identifies one pictured example as Cal. 710 || Tonneau Oyster, 29–33 mm; steel, including one with a pink-gold bezel || Catalogue titles include Oyster Royal, Royal Observatory, Royalite, Majestic Observatory and Speedking; centre/subsidiary seconds, 12/24-hour and sector dials
|-
| [[Reference:2416|2416]] || Catalogue examples and marks mainly mid-1930s to circa 1940; range unproved || Manual; 15 jewels reported on several lots; Christie’s also describes an Ultra Prima movement; one parts table lists 10½ lignes; numbered caliber unconfirmed || Cushion case, 27–28mm in 9ct examples; one 18ct example || Murdock’s Cape Town signature; one white Roman-numeral dial with soldered lugs; dealer-described “England Dial” and Speedking inscriptions; Oyster Watch Co. cases with Rolex/Aegler movements reported
|-
|-
| [[Reference:3139|3139]] || c.1940–1942 || 10½′′′ Hunter, manual || 32mm cushion Oyster, 3-piece || Only Rolex with "Army" on the dial; cushion case in the Borgel-derived 1920s family; documented British military and civilian examples
| [[Reference:3139|3139]] || c.1940–1942 || 10½′′′ Hunter, manual || 32mm cushion Oyster, 3-piece || Only Rolex with "Army" on the dial; cushion case in the Borgel-derived 1920s family; documented British military and civilian examples
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|-
|-
| [[Reference:3009|3009]] || range unproved; Glasgow import mark 1937 and presentation inscription 1947 || Mostly catalogued manual, 17–18j; Cal. 700 family attribution probable; two repeated LSK automatic descriptions unresolved || 30–33mm precious-metal tonneau Oyster || White enamel Scientific dial plus Observatory, 24-hour, California and silvered layouts
| [[Reference:3009|3009]] || range unproved; Glasgow import mark 1937 and presentation inscription 1947 || Mostly catalogued manual, 17–18j; Cal. 700 family attribution probable; two repeated LSK automatic descriptions unresolved || 30–33mm precious-metal tonneau Oyster || White enamel Scientific dial plus Observatory, 24-hour, California and silvered layouts
|-
| [[Reference:3096|3096]] || Bonhams c.1930; Sotheby’s c.1937; span unproved. Gardiner Houlgate reports 1937 Glasgow import marks on the watch with serial 41066 || Manual winding on Bonhams example; 18-jewel/six-position and jewelled-lever descriptions elsewhere; caliber unconfirmed || 30mm gold cushion case; 9ct/9K in three records; Gardiner Houlgate describes hooded lugs || “Oyster Chronometer” wording; central seconds on one example and subsidiary seconds on three
|-
|-
| [[Reference:4220|4220]] || c.1944–1948 || Cal. 59 manual, 17j || 30mm tonneau Oyster SS || ''Speedking'' line; California dial; a documented 1940s small-Oyster manual-wind configuration
| [[Reference:4220|4220]] || c.1944–1948 || Cal. 59 manual, 17j || 30mm tonneau Oyster SS || ''Speedking'' line; California dial; a documented 1940s small-Oyster manual-wind configuration
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|-
|-
| [[Reference:3372|3372]] || auction estimates c.1938–c.1959; factory range unconfirmed || Cal. 630 listed by Field Manual and named in one lot; other catalogues give 9¾-ligne / N 1411; centre and subsidiary seconds recorded || tonneau case; 32–33mm in cited lots; case and bezel variants || "Luxury Model" name reported in period advertising; 3372/0 listed with smooth polished bezel; dials need lot-specific originality checks
| [[Reference:3372|3372]] || auction estimates c.1938–c.1959; factory range unconfirmed || Cal. 630 listed by Field Manual and named in one lot; other catalogues give 9¾-ligne / N 1411; centre and subsidiary seconds recorded || tonneau case; 32–33mm in cited lots; case and bezel variants || "Luxury Model" name reported in period advertising; 3372/0 listed with smooth polished bezel; dials need lot-specific originality checks
|}
== Straight-lug Empire Oyster ==
Collector Marcus Siems groups the straight-lug refs. 3548 and 3716 under the name Empire; Antiquorum says period advertisements used the Italian form “Impero.” The 3548 has centre seconds and the 3716 subsidiary seconds. Catalogue dates for 3716 examples range from circa 1940 to an outlying 1950s attribution, so the group does not supply a confirmed production span. See [[Reference:3548|3548]] and [[Reference:3716|3716]].
{| class="wikitable" style="width:100%;"
|-
! Reference !! Production evidence !! Movement !! Case !! Key distinction
|-
| [[Reference:3716|3716]] || Catalogued circa 1940–46; one 1989 catalogue gives a 1950s date || 9¾-ligne automatic; Cal. 620 / 635 assignments conflict || 31–32 mm straight-lug case; steel, yellow and pink gold examples || Subsidiary seconds; paired in collector sources with centre-seconds ref. 3548
|}
|}


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== Post-Bubbleback / Super Oyster (1952–1953) ==
== Post-Bubbleback / Super Oyster (1952–1953) ==


Cal. 1030, the first Rolex-designed-from-scratch caliber and a bi-directional automatic, made the flat caseback possible and ended the Bubbleback profile. The 6098 "Super Oyster" carried 60m water resistance into the Oyster Perpetual line, preceding the Submariner by a year and preceding the Explorer and Submariner launches of 1953 and the GMT-Master launch of 1955.
Cal. 1030, a bidirectional automatic, allowed Rolex to use a flatter caseback than the Bubbleback profile. A September 1953 letter from Bruno Vailati thanks Rolex for seven “Super Oyster” watches supplied to his Red Sea expedition; the letter does not identify them by reference. Perezcope attributes Vailati’s own watch to ref. 6098. Monaco Legend later used “Super Oyster” for ref. 6029, case 706020. Antiquorum dates that same case to 1950 and describes its domed, screw-down back. Abell Watchmakers calls a separately numbered ref. 6029 “Big Bubble Back.” These are source-specific labels, not evidence of a single model definition. [https://perezcope.com/2023/06/19/pre-submariner-scuba-diving-with-rolex-oyster-watches/ Jose Pereztroika, “Pre-Submariner Scuba Diving With Rolex Oyster Watches” (2023)] [https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-25/lot-181 Monaco Legend Auctions, 2021, lot 181] [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-177-254 Antiquorum, 2007, lot 254] [https://www.abellwatchmakers.com/rolexservice.html Abell Watchmakers, ref. 6029, case 685762]


{| class="wikitable" style="width:100%;"
{| class="wikitable" style="width:100%;"
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! Reference !! Production !! Movement !! Case !! Key distinction
! Reference !! Production !! Movement !! Case !! Key distinction
|-
|-
| [[Reference:6098|6098]] || 1952–1953 || Cal. 1030 (or A.296), 25j, bi-directional || 36mm Oyster, flat caseback || "Super Oyster" per 1953 Vailati letter; 60m water resistance; pre-Explorer / pre-Submariner ancestor; honeycomb and galaxy dials
| [[Reference:6098|6098]] || 1952–1953 || Cal. 1030 (or A.296), 25j, bi-directional || 36mm Oyster, flat caseback || “Super Oyster” wording in Vailati’s 1953 letter for expedition watches; Perezcope attributes his watch to 6098
|}
|}


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* [[Reference:6150|6150]] (first Explorer, 1952)
* [[Reference:6150|6150]] (first Explorer, 1952)
* [[Reference:6204|6204]] (first Submariner, 1953)
* [[Reference:6204|6204]] (first Submariner, 1953)
* [[Reference:4643|4643]] (square Perpetual; catalogues variously call it non-Oyster Perpetual, Oyster Perpetual or Bubbleback, so its placement here is provisional)
* [[Reference:4643|4643]] (square Perpetual; published labels vary. Dorotheum says period Rolex catalogues misprinted it as 4663; the ''Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' lists 4643 and 4663 separately, and the discrepancy remains unresolved.)
* 6305 (first Datejust with Cyclops, 1954)
* 6305 (first Datejust with Cyclops, 1954)
* 6604 and 6605 (first Datejust with instantaneous date change, Cal. 1065, 1956–57)
* 6604 and 6605 (first Datejust with instantaneous date change, Cal. 1065, 1956–57)
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* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-3881029 Christie’s, ref. 2416, case 36789]
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-3881029 Christie’s, ref. 2416, case 36789]
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-3012418 Christie’s, ref. 2416, case 36776, sale 5004 lot 98]
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5674719 Christie’s, ref. 2416, case 36,848]
* [https://www.schulerauktionen.ch/en/items/176-2124-rolex-oyster-1930er-jahre?category=armband-und-taschenuhren Schuler Auktionen, ref. 2416, case 32342]
* [https://www.schulerauktionen.ch/en/items/176-2124-rolex-oyster-1930er-jahre?category=armband-und-taschenuhren Schuler Auktionen, ref. 2416, case 32342]
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/29894/lot/85/rolex-a-9k-gold-manual-wind-wristwatch-oyster-ref-3096-circa-1930/ Bonhams, ref. 3096, case 41164, circa 1930]
* [https://auctions.gardinerhoulgate.co.uk/catalogue/lot/1a42656b28290c8a4b42b67ac9a365ce/63b778f7668dabe928d3800924a99077/watches-clocks-miscellaneous-horology-lot-59/ Gardiner Houlgate, ref. 3096, serial 41066, Glasgow import marks dated 1937]
* [https://www.tooveys.com/lots/323442/a-rolex-oyster-9ct-gold-cushion-shape-cased-gentlemans-wristwatch Toovey’s, ref. 3096, caseback marked 4111/3096]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2020/watches-6 Sotheby’s, Watches 2020, ref. 3096, lot 51, circa 1937]
* [https://everywatch.com/rolex/watch-9190889 EveryWatch transcription of Sotheby’s lot 51]
* [https://www.vintagewatchstraps.com/blogoysterwatchco.php David Boettcher, “Oyster Watch Co.”; FHF 30 and Tudor Cal. 59/59SC]
* [https://www.vintagewatchstraps.com/blogoysterwatchco.php David Boettcher, “Oyster Watch Co.”; FHF 30 and Tudor Cal. 59/59SC]
* [https://www.vintagewatchstraps.com/wilsdorfsotherbrands.php David Boettcher, Rolex 2416 examples in Oyster Watch Co. cases]
* [https://www.vintagewatchstraps.com/wilsdorfsotherbrands.php David Boettcher, Rolex 2416 examples in Oyster Watch Co. cases]
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* ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' — Colin A. White, Morning Tundra
* ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' — Colin A. White, Morning Tundra
* [https://www.vintagewatchstraps.com/blogoystercase.php David Boettcher, "The Rolex Oyster Case — Hermetic, Submarine and the Borgel lineage", vintagewatchstraps.com]
* [https://www.vintagewatchstraps.com/blogoystercase.php David Boettcher, "The Rolex Oyster Case — Hermetic, Submarine and the Borgel lineage", vintagewatchstraps.com]
* [https://patents.google.com/patent/GB260554A/en British patent GB260554A, “Improvements in keyless watches”]
* [https://patents.google.com/patent/CH114948A/en Swiss patent CH114948A, “Winding watch”]
* [https://www.windvintage.com/blog/2022/9/7/the-oyster-story Owen Lawton, "The Oyster Story (Part 1)", Wind Vintage, 2022]
* [https://www.windvintage.com/blog/2022/9/7/the-oyster-story Owen Lawton, "The Oyster Story (Part 1)", Wind Vintage, 2022]
* [https://www.windvintage.com/blog/how-rolex-became-rolex-the-automatic-perpetual-movement-part-2 Charlie Dunne, "How Rolex Became Rolex: The Automatic Perpetual Movement, Part 2", Wind Vintage, 2023]
* [https://www.windvintage.com/blog/how-rolex-became-rolex-the-automatic-perpetual-movement-part-2 Charlie Dunne, "How Rolex Became Rolex: The Automatic Perpetual Movement, Part 2", Wind Vintage, 2023]
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* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/24235/lot/115/rolex-a-very-rare-18k-gold-automatic-triple-calendar-wristwatch-with-moon-phase-padellone-ref-8171-circa-1955/ Bonhams, "Fine Watches and Wristwatches, London New Bond Street, 13 December 2017, lot 115 — 18K gold ref. 8171 ''Padellone'', cal. A.295 CPL no. 20696", Bonhams, 2017]
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/24235/lot/115/rolex-a-very-rare-18k-gold-automatic-triple-calendar-wristwatch-with-moon-phase-padellone-ref-8171-circa-1955/ Bonhams, "Fine Watches and Wristwatches, London New Bond Street, 13 December 2017, lot 115 — 18K gold ref. 8171 ''Padellone'', cal. A.295 CPL no. 20696", Bonhams, 2017]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-163-311 Antiquorum, "Ref. 3525 chronograph, Corporal Clive Nutting provenance", Geneva, 2007]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-163-311 Antiquorum, "Ref. 3525 chronograph, Corporal Clive Nutting provenance", Geneva, 2007]
* [https://perezcope.com/ Jose Pereztroika, "Sesto Continente — the ref. 6098 Super Oyster and the 1953 Vailati letter", Perezcope]
* [https://perezcope.com/2023/06/19/pre-submariner-scuba-diving-with-rolex-oyster-watches/ Jose Pereztroika, "Pre-Submariner Scuba Diving With Rolex Oyster Watches", 2023]
* [https://www.pandolfini.it/ Pandolfini Casa d'Aste, "Catalogue usage — ''Ovetto'' for 32mm Bubblebacks, ''Ovettone'' for 36mm Big Bubblebacks", Pandolfini]
* [https://www.pandolfini.it/ Pandolfini Casa d'Aste, "Catalogue usage — ''Ovetto'' for 32mm Bubblebacks, ''Ovettone'' for 36mm Big Bubblebacks", Pandolfini]


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===Editorial and market===
===Editorial and market===
* [https://www.abellwatchmakers.com/rolexservice.html Abell Watchmakers, ref. 6029, case 685762, “Big Bubble Back”]
* [https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-25/lot-181 Monaco Legend Auctions, The Rolex Connoisseur's Collection Part Two, lot 181, ref. 6029, case 706020, 2021]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-177-254 Antiquorum, Geneva, 11 November 2007, lot 254, ref. 6029, case 706020]
* [https://www.vintageandprestige.com/product/rolex-oyster-prima-1925/ Vintage & Prestige, ref. 1925 stock W3770, Milanese bracelet and 1930 guarantee]
* [https://everywatch.com/rolex/2280/watch-9112655 EveryWatch archive of Bonhams 2012 lot 127, ref. 2280 case 79,895]
* [https://www.powerwatch.jp/2022/08/22/royal/ Watch LIFE News / LowBEAT, ref. 2280 and Cal. 710 (Japanese, 2022)]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2026/fine-watches/reference-2280-oyster-royal-a-stainless-steel Sotheby’s New York, ref. 2280, lot 403]
* [https://watchesbysjx.com/2015/05/explained-restoring-a-1950s-rolex-oyster-perpetual-ref-6074.html Henrik Korpela, SJX Watches, 2015 — gold watch, movement and altered caseback]
* [https://watchesbysjx.com/2015/05/explained-restoring-a-1950s-rolex-oyster-perpetual-ref-6074.html Henrik Korpela, SJX Watches, 2015 — gold watch, movement and altered caseback]
* [https://www.watchlover.it/2016/09/21/rolex-ovettone-big-bubbleback/ Watchlover, 2016 — illustrated 6074 and smooth bezel]
* [https://www.watchlover.it/2016/09/21/rolex-ovettone-big-bubbleback/ Watchlover, 2016 — illustrated 6074 and smooth bezel]

Latest revision as of 03:15, 14 October 2026


Rolex Oyster & Bubbleback

Vintage Rolex Bubbleback advertisement
Vintage Rolex Bubbleback advertisement

The Bubbleback is Rolex's early Oyster Perpetual family. The automatic rotor was too thick for a flat case, so Rolex domed the caseback over the movement and created the profile collectors now call Bubbleback. Production examples run from 1933 into the mid-1950s; later Cal. 1030 references could use a flatter caseback, so the line gradually moved away from the domed profile. Italian collectors call the standard 32mm case Ovetto and the 36mm cases Ovettone.

Common entry points

Identifying a first-generation Bubbleback?
The first Bubbleback. Cal 520 with the full 360-degree rotor, the Didactic engravings in French on the movement plate, and the four-piece case form.
Cross-checking a two-piece case Bubbleback?
First two-piece case Bubbleback. The 1936 case simplification, precious-metal only (9K, 14K, 18K yellow and pink gold), Cal 620 with sub-seconds.
Working from a Luxury Model dial photo?
The "Luxury Model" name appears in period advertising; documented examples and manual entries show several bezel and seconds configurations.

Pre-Oyster / Submarine (1922–1926)

Rolex dates its Submarine to 1922 and describes a watch hinged inside a second case, with a screw-down bezel and crystal; reaching the crown required opening the outer case. David Boettcher distinguishes Hermetic watches sold under the Submarine name from watches branded Rolex. Jean Finger's 1921 Swiss patent CH 89276 describes a stem-wound watch with a protective case. Boettcher notes that Wilsdorf's 1922 British patent describes the same case design but does not name Finger. Rolex, “Building an impenetrable defence”; Boettcher, “Rolex Hermetic”; Boettcher, “Rolex Submarine?”

Reference Production Movement Case Key distinction
3666 Cargills catalogue: 1924; Bonhams: circa 1925 Manual, 15 jewels in catalogues; caliber unconfirmed 32–33mm silver hinged-case Hermetique Cargills calls its watch “Submarine Hermetique” and reports Rolex signatures; Phillips catalogues a separate 1940 chronograph as ref. 3666 (Bold Timepieces; Bonhams; Watches of Knightsbridge, lot 376; Phillips)

Pre-Perpetual Oyster

Before the Bubbleback, Rolex produced manual-wind Oysters. Auction catalogues identify several with 10½- or 9¾-ligne Aegler Hunter movements at Prima, Extra Prima or Ultra Prima grades. Ref. 1925 lots also name Prima and Ultra Prima grades, but do not assign a numeric caliber. Glasgow import hallmarks recur on British-market examples; the assay date belongs to the case, not necessarily the watch’s manufacture.

Reference Production Movement Case Key distinction
1925 Christie’s dates examples circa 1925, 1928 and to the 1930s; Antiquorum: 1920s; production span unknown Prima (9′′′/15j and six-position description) and Ultra Prima (15j); caliber unconfirmed Cushion, faceted tonneau and octagonal; 28 × 28 to 32 × 31mm; gold, silver, nickel Lot-specific dials; Vintage & Prestige stock W3770 reproduces a 1930 guarantee recording sale on a Milanese band; 260554 is a British winding-crown patent number, while its role in the Bonhams watch’s catalogue field remains unverified
2081 Auction dates range from the 1920s to 1948; span unproved 10-ligne/15-jewel Prima and 10½-ligne/17-jewel lots; one 1947 lot names Cal. 700, 10½-ligne/15-jewel Extra-Prima Cushion, 31–32mm; stainless steel, 9K gold and chrome-plated examples “Standard Oyster,” “Oyster Imperial” and “Oyster Chronometer” catalogue labels; Antiquorum’s steel-only note conflicts with gold and chrome-plated lots
1069 Antiquorum dates lots to 1920s; Christie's circa 1930; span unproved Manual; 11-ligne/15j movement reported once; other descriptions differ Cushion; catalogued 30–32mm, steel and silver-plated examples Solar Aqua/Anti-Magnetic dial; caseback 21836 has a conflicting 1940s seller date
1072 Auctions date examples to the 1930s, circa 1938, and 1940s; one dealer assigns circa 1927, span unresolved 10-ligne/18j and 15-jewel Prima descriptions; caliber unconfirmed Cushion, 31–34mm; stainless-steel and chrome descriptions Silvered Arabic, gilt-baton, two-tone 24-hour, and one Bucherer-signed dealer dial record
1073 Antiquorum circa 1926; Christie's circa 1930; Bonhams 1930s; dealer 1934; production span unproved Antiquorum: 10½-ligne Extra Prima, 15j; other auction lots name Prima grades Cushion, 31–32mm; stainless-steel and chrome descriptions Enamel Breguet, silvered Arabic, Roman, and one dealer-described California dial
2136 c.1926–1940 10½′′′ Hunter, 15j manual 32–34mm octagonal / cushion Early manual-wind gold Oyster; Borgel-lineage three-piece construction; same reference reused c.1960 for a Cal. 1400 Precision
34075 Christie’s dates the individual watch 1926; Sotheby’s reports Glasgow marks for 1926/1927; production series unproved 9¾-ligne Hunter upgraded to Cal. 600, 17j (Sotheby’s) 9ct gold octagonal case, wire lugs, 31 × 27mm (Christie’s) Gleitze’s ‘Companion Oyster’; Christie’s calls it No. 34075, Sotheby’s calls it reference 34075; single object record
2849 Christie’s dates examples circa 1936, 1938 and 1940; Antiquorum dates two cases to 1937; production span unproved Christie’s describes 18-jewel lever/Hunter movements; Antiquorum attributes 17-jewel Cal. 500 to two 1937 watches, with one lot’s stated caliber dates conflicting 32–33mm; steel examples and one steel-and-gold catalogue description, disputed against a steel-only note Broad stepped bezel; period “Oyster De Luxe” wording and later “Lifesaver” nickname
3003 · 3004 1937 launch Manual lever movements; two auction lots describe 10-line, 15- and 17-jewel examples One catalogued 3003 is 27mm steel/pink gold; one 3004 is 30mm steel First pair listed under Oyster Precision; documented examples differ in case and seconds layout
1873 Most auction dates c.1930–1940; Cambi lists c.1954 Manual; 15–18j; Extra Prima and Ultra Prima grades 31–32mm; seven steel entries, one 9K gold; tonneau-form cases catalogued Eight auction entries; one flat-back title; Cambi describes central seconds

Other manual-wind Oyster references

Manual-wind Oyster references ran alongside the automatic Bubbleback. Auction records describe tonneau or cushion cases and manual movements; the automatic Bubbleback line used rotor movements.

Reference Production Movement Case Key distinction
1573 Auction examples dated circa 1930 through the 1940s; production span unknown Manual; Antiquorum photo shows 15 jewels; Master of Time assigns Cal. 600 (17 jewels) to one Viceroy example; not confirmed across the reference Tonneau/tortue; 28–29 × 38–39mm across catalogues; steel, steel/gold-bezel and 9ct gold examples BEYER-signed black dial and Dobbies attribution documented; Imperial and Viceroy are sale names, not established production variants
2280 Auction examples circa 1935–1943; production span unconfirmed Manual; 15–17 jewels in catalogues; Watch LIFE News identifies one pictured example as Cal. 710 Tonneau Oyster, 29–33 mm; steel, including one with a pink-gold bezel Catalogue titles include Oyster Royal, Royal Observatory, Royalite, Majestic Observatory and Speedking; centre/subsidiary seconds, 12/24-hour and sector dials
2416 Catalogue examples and marks mainly mid-1930s to circa 1940; range unproved Manual; 15 jewels reported on several lots; Christie’s also describes an Ultra Prima movement; one parts table lists 10½ lignes; numbered caliber unconfirmed Cushion case, 27–28mm in 9ct examples; one 18ct example Murdock’s Cape Town signature; one white Roman-numeral dial with soldered lugs; dealer-described “England Dial” and Speedking inscriptions; Oyster Watch Co. cases with Rolex/Aegler movements reported
3139 c.1940–1942 10½′′′ Hunter, manual 32mm cushion Oyster, 3-piece Only Rolex with "Army" on the dial; cushion case in the Borgel-derived 1920s family; documented British military and civilian examples
3359 c.1939–1947 10½′′′ Hunter, manual 32mm tonneau Oyster, two-tone SS + pink gold Viceroy-signed dial; two-tone SS case with pink gold bezel; applied luminous numerals
3358 auction examples dated c.1940 and 1942; range unproved Cal. 700 directly named on one lot; manual movement on another Steel three-body Oyster with pink-gold bezel; catalogued diameters 28, 29 and 30mm Separate Viceroy and Oyster Chronomètre dial descriptions; not an automatic Bubbleback
2765 c.1939–1942 catalogue dates; range unproved 10–10½-ligne manual, 17–18j; caliber unresolved 31–32mm steel tonneau Oyster; screw-down back and crown Misclassified as a Bubbleback on collector lists; ten auction appearances represent eight watches
2784 individual catalogue estimates c.1930–1945; range unproved Manual, 15–17j; FHF 30 is a family-level possibility (Tudor Cal. 59); no original 2784 movement confirms it Usually 30–31mm barrel Oyster; steel and steel/gold documented Junior Sport, Lipton, Viceroy, Raleigh, Centregraph and photographed Solar Aqua names
3009 range unproved; Glasgow import mark 1937 and presentation inscription 1947 Mostly catalogued manual, 17–18j; Cal. 700 family attribution probable; two repeated LSK automatic descriptions unresolved 30–33mm precious-metal tonneau Oyster White enamel Scientific dial plus Observatory, 24-hour, California and silvered layouts
3096 Bonhams c.1930; Sotheby’s c.1937; span unproved. Gardiner Houlgate reports 1937 Glasgow import marks on the watch with serial 41066 Manual winding on Bonhams example; 18-jewel/six-position and jewelled-lever descriptions elsewhere; caliber unconfirmed 30mm gold cushion case; 9ct/9K in three records; Gardiner Houlgate describes hooded lugs “Oyster Chronometer” wording; central seconds on one example and subsidiary seconds on three
4220 c.1944–1948 Cal. 59 manual, 17j 30mm tonneau Oyster SS Speedking line; California dial; a documented 1940s small-Oyster manual-wind configuration

First Bubbleback (1933–1935)

The first production Perpetual. Cal. 520 (Hunter 8¾′′′) with a full 360-degree rotor. Early examples carry the Didactic engravings: step-by-step service instructions in French cut directly into the movement plate.

Reference Production Movement Case Key distinction
1858 1933–1935 Cal. 520, 17j 32mm tonneau, 3/4-piece First Bubbleback; Didactic movement; 60% Didactic split across 5 confirmed auction lots

Two-piece case era (1936–1944)

Rolex introduced a two-piece Bubbleback case with refs. 3131 and 3132 in 1936. Other references still appear in catalogues as three-body cases, including the 3134. Cal. 620 (subsidiary seconds) and Cal. 630 (sweep seconds) became the dominant automatic calibers, developed by Emile Borer at Aegler.

Reference Production Movement Case Key distinction
2240 1930s–1940s catalogue dates; range unproved 9¾-ligne automatic, 19j, centre seconds; caliber unresolved 32mm steel tonneau; back profile unshown on specialist-catalogued examples Bubbleback classification probable; a separately attributed watch has a domed back but no published reference engraving
3131 1936–1948 Cal. 620, 17j, sub-seconds 32mm tonneau, 2-piece First two-piece case Bubbleback; precious-metal only (9K/14K/18K YG & PG)
3134 c.1939–1957 catalogue dates; production span unknown Automatic; 9½ and 9¾ lignes reported; caliber unresolved; subsidiary and centre seconds documented 32 mm in most catalogues, with 30, 32.5 and 33 mm outliers; tonneau, three-body descriptions Steel, a steel/yellow-gold case and two steel/gold listings with alloy unspecified; California-dial originality unconfirmed
3135 1938–c.1945 catalogue dates 9¾-ligne automatic family; caliber unresolved; subsidiary and centre seconds documented 32–33mm steel tonneau; one example catalogued as two-body Sector, Roman, radium, pink and 24-hour dials documented; manual-wind listing is a probable 3135/3136 catalogue error
3599 1939–1946 catalogue dates Early Perpetual family; Cal. 635 documented with subsidiary seconds 31–34mm catalogued, fitted hood covers Mainly steel; wide flat bezel; fluted and smooth hoods; centre-seconds auction examples have unresolved caliber and factory status
3372 auction estimates c.1938–c.1959; factory range unconfirmed Cal. 630 listed by Field Manual and named in one lot; other catalogues give 9¾-ligne / N 1411; centre and subsidiary seconds recorded tonneau case; 32–33mm in cited lots; case and bezel variants "Luxury Model" name reported in period advertising; 3372/0 listed with smooth polished bezel; dials need lot-specific originality checks

Straight-lug Empire Oyster

Collector Marcus Siems groups the straight-lug refs. 3548 and 3716 under the name Empire; Antiquorum says period advertisements used the Italian form “Impero.” The 3548 has centre seconds and the 3716 subsidiary seconds. Catalogue dates for 3716 examples range from circa 1940 to an outlying 1950s attribution, so the group does not supply a confirmed production span. See 3548 and 3716.

Reference Production evidence Movement Case Key distinction
3716 Catalogued circa 1940–46; one 1989 catalogue gives a 1950s date 9¾-ligne automatic; Cal. 620 / 635 assignments conflict 31–32 mm straight-lug case; steel, yellow and pink gold examples Subsidiary seconds; paired in collector sources with centre-seconds ref. 3548

Early two-pusher Oyster chronograph (1939–mid-1940s)

The 3525 is commonly described as the first two-pusher chronograph in Rolex’s Oyster case; earlier Oyster-cased monopusher chronographs existed. Its one-piece upper case gave rise to the collector term Monoblocco. Some surviving examples have documented wartime orders and deferred payment, including those catalogued for Clive Nutting and Leon Brownlee.

Reference Production Movement Case Key distinction
3525 catalogue examples c.1940–1945; factory span unconfirmed Cal. 13 / Valjoux 23 family, manual chronograph ~35mm monobloc Oyster SS/gold Commonly described as an early two-pusher Oyster chronograph; earlier Oyster monopushers existed. Nutting example offered in 2007 with CHF 130,000–160,000 estimate; result not shown

First Datejust / Ovettone (1945–1953)

The 4467 launched in 1945 to mark Rolex's 40th anniversary. The 4467 article covers the early Datejust, its 36mm case, Jubilee bracelet and documented examples.

Reference Production Movement Case Key distinction
4467 1945–1949 Cal. A.295 (= 740/745), 18j 36mm 18K YG/PG tonneau, 2-piece Early Datejust; early Jubilee and solid end-link configuration; Ovettone; date wheel evolves all-black → all-red → roulette
5030 circa 1948 Cal. A.295 / 740 (see reference-specific sources) 36mm; solid gold examples Early date-equipped Oyster Perpetual; paired with the 5031 in some collector usage
5031 auction dates range from circa 1948 to the 1960s Automatic in sale catalogues; caliber unresolved 34–36mm in catalogues; steel and pink or yellow gold described Date at 3; movement and case details vary by example
6031 auction dates include circa 1949–1950 and the 1950s Automatic in catalogues; caliber unresolved 35–36mm; 18K yellow and pink gold catalogued Date-equipped Oyster Perpetual; left-hand examples catalogued with crown at 9
6074 Platinum commission dated 1950; gold attributions circa 1950s unresolved Cal. 630 NA on one gold watch with reworked caseback; 9¾-ligne/17j on platinum lot; no reference-wide assignment 34–36mm in separate catalogues Platinum example has smooth bezel; gold examples need attribution checks 6075 Auction dates include 1950–51; one c.1961 estimate conflicts A.295 and A.296 attributed in separate catalogues 35–36mm; 18K YG/PG and steel + YG; one 10K YG catalogue description Gold, pink-gold and two-tone cases; one photographed Datejust dial is graded restored
6105 Early 1950s; catalogue dates vary A.296 and 745-attributed examples 36mm; gold and two-tone examples Early dial-signed Datejust; often credited as first, but factory first use is not settled by the 6075 restored dial

Triple calendar: Padellone (1949–1953)

"Padellone" means "big pan" in Italian, an augmentative of padella ("pan") that follows the same naming logic as Ovetto/Ovettone. Triple calendar (day, month, date) plus moonphase. The Padellone uses a snap caseback rather than the screw-down construction of an Oyster case.

Reference Production Movement Case Key distinction
8171 c.1949–1953 Cal. A.295 CPL automatic triple calendar moonphase, in-house Aegler 38mm non-Oyster snap caseback, 18K YG/PG, SS rare Triple calendar + moonphase; Padellone; published examples include stainless steel and gold cases

Post-Bubbleback / Super Oyster (1952–1953)

Cal. 1030, a bidirectional automatic, allowed Rolex to use a flatter caseback than the Bubbleback profile. A September 1953 letter from Bruno Vailati thanks Rolex for seven “Super Oyster” watches supplied to his Red Sea expedition; the letter does not identify them by reference. Perezcope attributes Vailati’s own watch to ref. 6098. Monaco Legend later used “Super Oyster” for ref. 6029, case 706020. Antiquorum dates that same case to 1950 and describes its domed, screw-down back. Abell Watchmakers calls a separately numbered ref. 6029 “Big Bubble Back.” These are source-specific labels, not evidence of a single model definition. Jose Pereztroika, “Pre-Submariner Scuba Diving With Rolex Oyster Watches” (2023) Monaco Legend Auctions, 2021, lot 181 Antiquorum, 2007, lot 254 Abell Watchmakers, ref. 6029, case 685762

Reference Production Movement Case Key distinction
6098 1952–1953 Cal. 1030 (or A.296), 25j, bi-directional 36mm Oyster, flat caseback “Super Oyster” wording in Vailati’s 1953 letter for expedition watches; Perezcope attributes his watch to 6098

Related references

The Bubbleback era connects forward to:

  • 6098 (Super Oyster, 60m water resistance in 1952; pre-Explorer and pre-Submariner ancestor)
  • 6150 (first Explorer, 1952)
  • 6204 (first Submariner, 1953)
  • 4643 (square Perpetual; published labels vary. Dorotheum says period Rolex catalogues misprinted it as 4663; the Vintage Rolex Field Manual lists 4643 and 4663 separately, and the discrepancy remains unresolved.)
  • 6305 (first Datejust with Cyclops, 1954)
  • 6604 and 6605 (first Datejust with instantaneous date change, Cal. 1065, 1956–57)

Related families

  • Air-King — the descendant line. The 1945 4925 / 4365 / 4499 originating Air-Kings sit in the same Bubbleback case architecture and run on the same Aegler hand-wound calibers.
  • Prince — the parallel 1930s line. The Aegler-supplier relationship that powers the Prince also powers every Bubbleback caliber.
  • Daytona — the chronograph ancestor. The pre-Daytona Antimagnetique, Monoblocco, and 4xxx tonneau Oyster chronographs share the same era and case lineage.


Shared references

Sources

Primary and specialist

Editorial and market