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{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex 5508 Submariner}}
{{#seo:
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex 5508 Submariner — Production, Dial Variants, Serial Ranges | BezelBase
|title=Rolex Submariner 5508 (1958–1962) — Reference guide | Rolexopedia
|description=The 5508 is the last small-crown 100m Submariner without crown guards. 1958–62 production, caliber 1530 (jewel progression 17→25→26), four-line SCOC and exclamation dial branches, period-correct 6636 / 7206 / 6251H bracelets.
|description=Reference 5508 is the last small-crown 100m Submariner without crown guards. This guide covers its c.1958–1962 production, caliber 1530 variants, gilt and exclamation dials, and documented bracelet fitments.
|keywords=Rolex, 5508, Submariner, specifications, small crown, exclamation dial, James Bond
|keywords=Rolex, 5508, Submariner, specifications, small crown, exclamation dial, James Bond
|image=Ref 5508 hero 3.webp
|image=Ref 5508 hero 3.webp
|image_alt=Rolex Submariner Ref. 5508
|image_alt=Rolex Submariner Ref. 5508
|type=article
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|og_type=article
|published_time=2026-04-14T16:12:52Z
|published_time=2026-04-14T16:12:52Z
|modified_time=2026-04-29T04:25:00Z
|modified_time=2026-08-04T00:12:54Z
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
}}
}}


<small>[[Reference:submariner|Submariner]] -> '''5508'''</small>
<small>[[Reference:submariner|Submariner]] › '''5508'''</small>


The 5508 is the last small-crown 100m Submariner without crown guards. Production runs 1958 to 1962 across the auction-house consensus (Sotheby's, Phillips, Bonhams). It is the small-crown counterpart to the big-crown 5510 (200m / 8mm crown), the cleanest mature expression of the 6204-era small-crown shape, and the reference where caliber 1530 grows through three jewel-count revisions (17 → 25 → 26 jewels) over the run. Sean Connery's on-screen Bond watch in Dr. No (1962) is the big-crown 6538, not the 5508 — Rolex Passion Report corrects the long-standing collector misattribution. The "James Bond Submariner" nickname attaches to the 5508 by collector convention rather than direct on-screen evidence.
<div class="rp-lead">
[[File:Ref 5508 hero 2.webp|thumb|center|640px|alt=Rolex 5508 Submariner|Rolex 5508 Submariner]]
</div>


[[File:Ref 5508 hero 3.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=Rolex Submariner Ref. 5508|Rolex Submariner Ref. 5508]]
The 5508 is the last small-crown 100m Submariner without crown guards. Auction catalogues usually date its production to 1958–1962, with some sources placing the launch in 1957. It is the small-crown counterpart to the big-crown 5510, with a 6mm crown and a 100m rating. Caliber 1530 examples are documented with 17, 25, and 26 jewels. Sean Connery's on-screen Submariner in ''Dr. No'' (1962) was a big-crown 6538; the “James Bond Submariner” label for the 5508 is collector shorthand rather than on-screen provenance.


<span id="core-facts"></span>
<span id="core-facts"></span>
== Core facts ==
==Core facts==
 
{| class="wikitable rp-facts"
{| class="wikitable"
|-
|-
! detail
! detail
Line 33: Line 35:
|-
|-
| production
| production
| 1958 to 1962 (Sotheby's, Phillips, Bonhams consensus); launch in 1957
| usually dated 1958 to 1962; some sources place the launch in 1957
|-
|-
| serial cluster
| serial cluster
Line 48: Line 50:
|-
|-
| movement
| movement
| caliber 1530, automatic; jewel progression 17 → 25 → 26 across the run ; not chronometer-rated at launch
| caliber 1530, automatic; documented jewel counts include 17, 25, and 26; chronometer-rated variants appear later in the run
|-
|-
| depth rating
| depth rating
| 100m / 660ft, two-line layout (some 1959 onward four-line "Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified" variants documented)
| 100m / 330ft, two-line layout (some 1959 onward four-line "Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified" variants documented)
|-
|-
| crystal
| crystal
Line 61: Line 63:


<span id="where-it-sits-in-the-line"></span>
<span id="where-it-sits-in-the-line"></span>
== Where it sits in the line ==
==Where it sits in the line==
The 5508 sits at the end of the small-crown 100m branch. It ran alongside the big-crown 200m 5510 and ended in 1962, before the 5512 brought crown guards, a 7mm crown, and caliber 1560. The 5508 inherited the small-crown case from the 6204 and 6205 and used the slimmer, bidirectional caliber 1530 in place of the earlier A260 family.


The 5508 sits at the end of the small-crown 100m branch. It runs alongside the big-crown 200m 5510 (1958–59) and exits in 1962 just before the 5512 takes over with crown guards, a 7mm crown, and the chronometer-rated caliber 1560. From the 6204 / 6205 the 5508 inherits the small-crown identity but upgrades to the chronometer-grade caliber 1530, replacing the A260 of the earlier line. The A260 is itself a full-rotor uni-directional Perpetual — Rolex never produced a bumper caliber — but its thicker autowind module sits behind the bubble-back-era cases; the 1530 is the slimmer, bidirectional architecture refined out of the 1030 generation. The 5508 is the bridge between the early small-crown Submariners and the mature crown-guard family that defines the modern Submariner silhouette.
The 6mm Brevet crown distinguishes the 5508 from the later 7mm guarded references. The 6538's 8mm crown carries the same Brevet marking; the marking identifies the period, not the crown size.
 
The 6mm Brevet small crown is the visual signature, distinct from the later 7mm standard introduced with crown guards on the 5512. The 6538's 8mm Brevet big crown carries the same Brevet stamp — the stamp distinguishes era, not size. The 5508 is the last mainstream Submariner where the case reads slim and proportional through the right-hand side without crown-guard volume.


<span id="production-outline"></span>
<span id="production-outline"></span>
== Production outline ==
==Production outline==
 
Production is generally dated 1958 to 1962. Sotheby's and Bonhams catalogue the launch as a replacement for the 6536/1 in 1958; Phillips documents a 1962 example. Le Monde Edmond places the launch in 1957, so the start year remains a source disagreement.
Production runs 1958 to 1962. Sotheby's and Bonhams catalogues both put the launch in 1958 as the replacement for the 6536/1; Phillips dates the latest production year at 1962 (lot CH080122/160, case 764,524). Le Monde Edmond gives a slightly earlier 1957 launch — capture as the minority view; auction houses converge on 1958.


Use case-back date codes alongside serials when assigning a build year — Rolex date-coded casebacks separately from serials. Phillips Geneva NINE 2019 lot 213 (case 361,650, "circa 1958") and Bonhams Feb 2018 lot 24627/98 (1959, 6251H rivet bracelet) anchor the launch period; Sotheby's Watches Online 2020 lot 37 (case 489,831, circa 1959) and Antiquorum Geneva 2020 lot 333-422 (case 490,575, circa 1958) populate the early-band cluster. The late cluster sits in the 762k–764k band: Phillips Hong Kong SPORTS 2019 lot 881 (case 762,896, II.62 caseback), Antiquorum Forte Dei Marmi 2021 (case 764,122, 1962), Antiquorum Monaco 2024 (case 764,196, 1962), Phillips Geneva XV 2022 lot 160 (case 764,524, 1962). Bob's general Rolex serial chart (1958 ~224k–328k, 1962 ~643k) under-shoots the 5508-observed serials because the head-stamping ran later than the catalog-year for this specific reference.
Use case-back date codes alongside serials when assigning a build year — Rolex date-coded casebacks separately from serials. Phillips Geneva NINE 2019 lot 213 (case 361,650, "circa 1958") and Bonhams Feb 2018 lot 24627/98 (1959, 6251H rivet bracelet) anchor the launch period; Sotheby's Watches Online 2020 lot 37 (case 489,831, circa 1959) and Antiquorum Geneva 2020 lot 333-422 (case 490,575, circa 1958) populate the early-band cluster. The late cluster sits in the 762k–764k band: Phillips Hong Kong SPORTS 2019 lot 881 (case 762,896, II.62 caseback), Antiquorum Forte Dei Marmi 2021 (case 764,122, 1962), Antiquorum Monaco 2024 (case 764,196, 1962), Phillips Geneva XV 2022 lot 160 (case 764,524, 1962). The general Rolex serial charts in circulation (1958 ~224k–328k, 1962 ~643k) under-shoot the 5508-observed serials because the head-stamping ran later than the catalog-year for this specific reference.


The 5508 belongs entirely to the gilt era — glossy black lacquer with gilt-coloured printing — through to the 1962 exclamation-dial transition that closes out production.
Most documented 5508 examples have glossy black gilt dials, with gilt-coloured printing. Late-run examples include the exclamation-dial transition.


<span id="movement-notes"></span>
<span id="movement-notes"></span>
== Movement notes ==
==Movement notes==
 
The 5508 introduces caliber 1530 to the small-crown line. Bonhams and Sotheby's catalogue copy commonly cites 25 jewels, while Phillips lots document 26 jewels. Other published records cite 17 jewels. The surviving examples support 17, 25, and 26 as documented counts during the run, but they do not provide a complete serial-by-serial transition.
The 5508 introduces caliber 1530 to the small-crown line. Bonhams and Sotheby's catalogue copy is consistent: cal. 1530, automatic, 25 jewels is the standard count cited on most 5508 lots (Bonhams Dec 2023 lot 38, Bonhams Feb 2018, Sotheby's 2020 lot 37). Phillips lots run 26 jewels (CH080119/213 in 1958 and HK080219/881 in 1962), suggesting a jewel-count revision during the run. The cleanest published reading runs three steps — initial production at 17 jewels, then 25, then 26 — and that 17 → 25 → 26 progression is the figure to cite on this reference.


The 1530 is not chronometer-rated at launch. The chronometer-rated four-line "Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified" dial is therefore a later 5508 spec, not the day-one configuration. Le Monde Edmond confirms 1530 is "more modern and reliable" than the 6536/1's 1030. The chronometer-rated upgrade to caliber 1560 follows on the 5512.
The 1530 is not chronometer-rated at launch. The chronometer-rated four-line "Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified" dial is therefore a later 5508 spec, not the day-one configuration. Le Monde Edmond describes the 1530 as a later design than the 6536/1's 1030; that comparison does not establish a serial cutoff. The chronometer-rated upgrade to caliber 1560 follows on the 5512.


Caliber 1530 shares the diameter of the earlier 1030 but was reduced to 5.75mm in height — a slimming that preserved case compatibility while sitting flatter inside the 5508's slim no-crown-guard case.
Caliber 1530 belongs to the same 12½-ligne movement family as the earlier 1030, with documented fitment in the 5508. Published height figures vary by source, so the page does not use a single height value to identify a watch.


<span id="dial-map"></span>
<span id="dial-map"></span>
== Dial map ==
==Dial map==
 
[[File:Ref 5508 gilt-dial-red-triangle.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=Gilt dial with red triangle bezel insert|Gilt dial with red triangle bezel insert]]
[[File:Ref 5508 gilt-dial-red-triangle.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=Gilt dial with red triangle bezel insert|Gilt dial with red triangle bezel insert]]


Three named dial families on a 5508: two-line standard (depth + Submariner only), four-line "SCOC" (Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified, above 6 o'clock), and exclamation (the lume dot below 6 o'clock, marking the 1962 radium-to-tritium transition). The "six-line" dial that surfaces in some chrono24 chatter is not a 5508 spec; the four-line / two-line dichotomy is the correct framing. Underline dials are a 5512 / 5513 feature from 1963 — the 5508 was discontinued in 1962, before the underline convention started.
The documented 5508 dial groups are two-line standard dials, four-line “SCOC” dials, and late exclamation dials with a luminous dot below 6 o'clock. The “six-line” label seen in some listings is not established here. Underline dials belong to the 5512 and 5513 from 1963, after the 5508 run.


<span id="standard-two-line-gilt"></span>
<span id="standard-two-line-gilt"></span>
=== Standard two-line gilt ===
===Standard two-line gilt===
Glossy black lacquer dial with gilt-coloured printing, Mercedes hour and minute hands, lollipop seconds, two-line "Submariner / 100m=660ft" layout. Some examples carry a Singer manufacturer marking on the reverse, visible only with the dial removed; Singer was one of the principal Swiss dial suppliers to Rolex during this period, and the back-stamp is a useful provenance indicator on loose dials.


Glossy black lacquer dial with gilt-coloured printing, Mercedes hour and minute hands, lollipop seconds, two-line "Submariner / 100m=660ft" layout. Some examples carry a Singer manufacturer marking on the reverse, visible only with the dial removed; Singer was one of the principal Swiss dial suppliers to Rolex during this period, and the back-stamp is a useful provenance indicator on loose dials.
<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
File:Ref 5508 bezel-dial-closeup.webp|alt=Bezel and dial closeup on a standard two-line 5508|Bezel and two-line dial, standard gilt configuration
File:Ref 5508 hands.webp|alt=Mercedes hands and lollipop seconds hand on a 5508 dial|Mercedes hands and lollipop seconds hand
</gallery>


<span id="four-line-scoc-gilt"></span>
<span id="four-line-scoc-gilt"></span>
=== Four-line "SCOC" gilt ===
===Four-line "SCOC" gilt===
 
A subset of 5508 dials carry the "Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified" line above 6 o'clock — the four-line layout. Antiquorum's 2008 Revolution sale lot 204 explicitly catalogues a "Gilt Four Line" 5508. The four-line dial coexists with the two-line dial during overlapping years rather than replacing it cleanly. A four-line dial identifies a chronometer-marked example in the cited lot records. The available evidence does not establish a universal jewel-count transition or a serial-by-serial pairing between the 17-, 25-, and 26-jewel executions.
A subset of 5508 dials carry the "Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified" line above 6 o'clock — the four-line layout. Antiquorum's 2008 Revolution sale lot 204 explicitly catalogues a "Gilt Four Line" 5508; RolexHaven's 5508 SCOC sub-page documents the variant. The four-line dial coexists with the two-line dial during overlapping years rather than replacing it cleanly. The four-line spec accompanies the chronometer-grade running gear that arrived later in the 1530's life — consistent with the 17 → 25 → 26 jewel progression over the run.


<span id="exclamation-dial"></span>
<span id="exclamation-dial"></span>
=== Exclamation dial (1962) ===
===Exclamation dial (1962)===
 
Late-run 5508s carry an exclamation dot beneath the depth rating at 6 o'clock. The dot is associated with the radium-to-tritium transition and appears in published 1962 examples. Phillips Hong Kong SPORTS 2019 lot 881, Phillips Geneva XV 2022 lot 160, and Antiquorum Forte Dei Marmi 2021 lot 340-173 document examples in that cluster.
Late-run 5508s carry an exclamation dot beneath the depth rating at 6 o'clock — a small luminous dot placed under the bottom of the bottom line. The dot is Rolex's first signal of the radium-to-tritium luminous transition, used briefly in 1962 before the underline convention took over on the 5512 / 5513 in 1963. The exclamation dial is the cleanest dial-side indicator that places a 5508 firmly at the tail of the run. Phillips Hong Kong SPORTS 2019 lot 881 (case 762,896, II.62 caseback), Phillips Geneva XV 2022 lot 160 (case 764,524), and Antiquorum Forte Dei Marmi 2021 lot 340-173 (chapter ring exclamation) anchor the 1962 cluster.


<span id="tropical-gilt"></span>
<span id="tropical-gilt"></span>
=== Tropical gilt ===
===Tropical gilt===
 
Tropical 5508 dials are black gilt dials that have aged to brown or chocolate tones. Sotheby's Fine Watches 2023 lot 40 and a documented 1959 example with serial 489,xxx provide published comparisons. Faded bezel inserts and period riveted bracelets occur on some examples, but neither is a rule for every tropical dial.
Tropical 5508 dials — black gilt that has aged to brown or chocolate tones — carry their own collector premium. Sotheby's Fine Watches 2023 lot 40 (case 400,505, circa 1958 tropical) and a documented 1959 example with serial 489,xxx are anchors. Tropical examples often pair with faded bezel inserts and original-fitment riveted bracelets.


<span id="service-dials"></span>
<span id="service-dials"></span>
=== Service dials ===
===Service dials===
 
Rolex service-replacement dials are documented on surviving 5508s. A service dial may have cleaner printing or different luminous material than an original dial. Compare the dial, movement, and provenance together, and distinguish a factory replacement from a third-party refinish rather than assuming a clean dial is original.
Rolex factory service replacement dials surface frequently on surviving 5508s. They tend to read cleaner than original dials of the same age — even lume, sharper printing, and modern radium / tritium specifications. A specialist service-dial example is documented. Service dials should be distinguished from third-party refinishes; the former carry consistent factory printing fidelity, the latter typically show even glow under UV without the radium speckle of period-correct lume.


<span id="case-bezel-crystal-and-crown"></span>
<span id="case-bezel-crystal-and-crown"></span>
== Case, bezel, crystal, and crown ==
==Case, bezel, crystal, and crown==
[[File:Ref 5508 case-profile.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=Small crown case profile — no crown guards|Small crown case profile — no crown guards]]


[[File:Ref 5508 case-profile.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=Small crown case profile — no crown guards|Small crown case profile — no crown guards]]
The 5508 case is small-crown and unguarded throughout. The 6mm Brevet crown distinguishes it from the 6538 and 5510's 8mm crowns and the 5512 and 5513's 7mm guarded crowns. The crown carries the Rolex coronet and Brevet marking used during this period.


The 5508 case is small-crown and unguarded throughout. The 6mm Brevet crown is the diagnostic — distinct from the 6538/5510's 8mm big crown and the 5512/5513's 7mm guarded crown. The crown markings show the Rolex coronet alongside the Brevet cross, the same stamp Rolex used across the small-crown line through this period.
The acrylic crystal and rotating dive bezel carry over from the earlier 6204 lineage. The 100m rating continues the small-crown specification used from the 6204. The later crown-guard 5512 moved to a 200m rating. The bezel insert reads gilt minute graduations on a black ground, with a luminous triangle at 12; Published examples include a red-triangle insert, with the 12 marker filled with red enamel or lacquer. The standard production fitment is the all-black insert.


The acrylic crystal and rotating dive bezel carry over from the earlier 6204 lineage. The 100m depth rating shows the small-crown specification that runs from the 6204 forward — and is the last time that figure appears on a small-crown Submariner before the crown-guard generation lifts it to 200m on the 5512. The bezel insert reads gilt minute graduations on a black ground, with a luminous triangle at 12; a small subset of 5508 examples surface with the red-triangle insert (the 12 marker filled with red enamel or lacquer), but the standard production fitment is the all-black insert.
[[File:Ref 5508 red-triangle-hero.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=5508 fitted with the red-triangle bezel insert variant|5508 fitted with the red-triangle bezel insert variant]]


The caseback wears smooth without an external date stamp; the interior carries the reference and case number alongside the Roman-quarter date code (II.62 = Q2 1962, etc.). The interior date code is the cleanest single dating anchor for a 5508 — the serial alone runs later than the catalog-year for this specific reference.
The caseback is smooth externally; the interior can carry the reference, case number, and Roman-quarter date code (II.62 indicates the second quarter of 1962). Use the date code with the serial and the rest of the watch because the observed 5508 serials do not map neatly onto general Rolex charts.


<span id="bracelets-end-links-clasps-and-packaging"></span>
<span id="bracelets-end-links-clasps-and-packaging"></span>
== Bracelets, end links, clasps, and packaging notes ==
==Bracelets, end links, clasps, and packaging notes==
 
Period-correct delivery bracelets on the 5508 split across three references depending on year and option. The earliest examples ship with the 6251H riveted Oyster (Bonhams Feb 2018, 1959 example with clasp 2/68 marking a service event but original-style fitment). The 7206 fixed-link riveted Oyster is the period-correct mainstream fitment — Bonhams Dec 2023 lot 38 documents a 1958 example with clasp 4/69, and Phillips Hong Kong 2019 lot 881 documents the 1962 fitment with end-link 64. The 6636 expandable riveted Oyster is the third documented original-delivery option — Phillips Geneva XV 2022 lot 160 (1962, clasp 4/64) and Phillips Geneva NINE 2019 (riveted Oyster with deployant clasp 1/58) anchor the 6636 fitment.
Period-correct delivery bracelets on the 5508 split across three references depending on year and option. The earliest examples ship with the 6251H riveted Oyster (Bonhams Feb 2018, 1959 example with clasp 2/68 marking a service event but original-style fitment). The 7206 fixed-link riveted Oyster is the period-correct mainstream fitment — Bonhams Dec 2023 lot 38 documents a 1958 example with clasp 4/69, and Phillips Hong Kong 2019 lot 881 documents the 1962 fitment with end-link 64. The 6636 expandable riveted Oyster is the third documented original-delivery option — Phillips Geneva XV 2022 lot 160 (1962, clasp 4/64) and Phillips Geneva NINE 2019 (riveted Oyster with deployant clasp 1/58) anchor the 6636 fitment.


The 9315 folded-link Oyster is a post-1968 service replacement only — not period-correct for any 5508. Any 9315 on a 5508 marks a service swap. RolexHaven's bracelets page anchors the 1961 introduction of reference-stamping ("In 1961, the Swiss Rivet bracelets started to bear reference number stamps on the largest link at 12:00") — bracelets without the reference stamp predate that change. Clasp date codes are the cleanest single-component dating tool: a clasp dating later than the case head implies a swap or service-era replacement.
The 9315 folded-link Oyster is a later replacement rather than a period 5508 delivery fitment in the cited records. A 9315 on a 5508 should therefore be treated as a service or later replacement until its provenance shows otherwise. The cited bracelet reference dates reference-number stamps on the largest rivet link to 1962. An unstamped bracelet may predate that change; the clasp and end links still need separate checks. Clasp date codes are the cleanest single-component dating tool: a clasp dating later than the case head implies a swap or service-era replacement.


A 1962 example documented at Vintage Gold Watches with original presentation box is the only 5508 in the public record with surviving period packaging.
A 1962 example is documented with a period presentation box. That lot does not establish how often original packaging survives.


<span id="bond-association"></span>
<span id="bond-association"></span>
== Bond association ==
==Bond association==
 
Collectors sometimes call the 5508 a “James Bond Submariner,” but the on-screen watch in ''Dr. No'' was the big-crown 6538. Auction houses use the small-crown label for the 5508 as a catalogue convention, not as proof that it appeared in the film.
The 5508 carries the "James Bond Submariner" nickname through collector convention. The on-screen Submariner in Dr. No (1962) is the 6538 big-crown — Rolex Passion Report states it directly: "a two liner Ref 6538 with non-dash insert bezel… Legendary movie shots have been made while Sean Connery was wearing his Ref 6538." Sotheby's and Bonhams still label 5508 listings as "Small Crown James Bond Submariner" because by collector usage, any no-crown-guard Submariner from the late-1950s / early-1960s is grouped under the Bond label. The original on-screen watch was the 6538.


[[File:Ref 5508 historical-example.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=No-crown-guard 5508 example|No-crown-guard 5508 example]]
[[File:Ref 5508 historical-example.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=No-crown-guard 5508 example|No-crown-guard 5508 example]]


== Special branches ==
==Special branches==
 
The late exclamation dials mark the radium-to-tritium transition. Four-line SCOC dials appear alongside standard two-line dials, and tropical examples are aged finishes rather than separate reference variants.
The 1962 exclamation cluster is the principal time-bound sub-branch — it ties the 5508 into the radium-to-tritium transition era and overlaps with early crown-guarded production on neighbouring references. The four-line SCOC variant is a chronometer-grade sub-branch within the 5508 that runs alongside the standard two-line dial. Tropical 5508s are a finish-state sub-branch rather than a separate variant.


<span id="historical-market-and-auction-record"></span>
<span id="historical-market-and-auction-record"></span>
== Historical market and auction record ==
==Historical market and auction record==
 
{| class="wikitable sortable"
{| class="wikitable sortable"
|-
|-
Line 163: Line 158:
| Antiquorum Geneva || 333-422 || 2020 || 490,575 || 1958 ghost bezel, rivet bracelet '63 || CHF 56,250
| Antiquorum Geneva || 333-422 || 2020 || 490,575 || 1958 ghost bezel, rivet bracelet '63 || CHF 56,250
|-
|-
| Antiquorum Forte Dei Marmi || 340-173 || 2021 || — || 1962 chapter-ring exclamation gilt || EUR 33,750
| Antiquorum Forte Dei Marmi || 340-173 || 2021 || n/a || 1962 chapter-ring exclamation gilt || EUR 33,750
|-
|-
| Antiquorum Monaco || 370-227 || 2024 || 764,196 || 1962 signature dial || est. EUR 20,000–40,000
| Antiquorum Monaco || 370-227 || 2024 || 764,196 || 1962 signature dial || est. EUR 20,000–40,000
|-
|-
| Bonhams || 24627/98 || 2018 || — || 1959 black, 6251H rivet || GBP 9,375 incl. premium
| Bonhams || 24627/98 || 2018 || n/a || 1959 black, 6251H rivet || GBP 9,375 incl. premium
|-
|-
| Bonhams || 28036/38 || 2023 || — || 1958 gilt, 7206 clasp 4/69 || est. GBP 15,000–20,000
| Bonhams || 28036/38 || 2023 || n/a || 1958 gilt, 7206 clasp 4/69 || est. GBP 15,000–20,000
|-
|-
| Sotheby's Watches Online 2 || — || 2020 || — || small-crown James Bond catalogue copy ||
| Sotheby's Watches Online 2 || n/a || 2020 || n/a || small-crown James Bond catalogue copy ||
|-
|-
| Sotheby's Fine Watches 5 || 40 || 2023 || 400,505 || 1958 tropical with 1960 papers ||
| Sotheby's Fine Watches 5 || 40 || 2023 || 400,505 || 1958 tropical with 1960 papers ||
|-
|-
| Sotheby's Cologne || — || 2023 || — || 1962 small-crown James Bond || est. EUR
| Sotheby's Cologne || n/a || 2023 || n/a || 1962 small-crown James Bond || est. EUR
|}
|}


The Phillips Geneva NINE 2019 result — CHF 500,000 hammer for a 1958 black gilt with red-triangle insert — is the headline figure for the reference. Phillips Hong Kong's 2019 exclamation gilt 1962 example at HK$ 2.687M is the second pillar. Tropical and SCOC variants sit at the upper-middle of the market; service-dial and refit examples settle at the lower end. The 5508 holds a specific market position — less famous than the 6538, less structurally important than the 5512, but the cleanest expression of the small-crown no-crown-guard Submariner in its most mature form.
The auction records cover different years, variants and markets, so they do not establish a market trend. A service dial or replacement bracelet also changes the comparison, so each result needs to be read with its lot description.
 
 
==Related references==
* [[Reference:5510|Submariner 5510]]: Big Crown, Cal 1530 (1957–1958)
* [[Reference:6538|Submariner 6538]]: "Big Crown", James Bond (1956–1959)
* [[Reference:6536|Submariner 6536]]: Early Gilt No-Crown-Guard (1955–1958)
* [[Reference:6205|Submariner 6205]]: 1953–1957
* [[Reference:6200|Submariner 6200]]: "King Sub", Big Crown (1953–1956)
* [[Reference:6204|Submariner 6204]]: 1953–1954
 
See also the [[Reference:submariner|Submariner family index]], [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|bracelet & clasp guide]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial numbers by year]].
 
<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
File:Ref 5508 hero 2.webp|alt=Rolex 5508 Submariner small-crown case|5508 small-crown Submariner
File:Ref 5508 gilt-dial-red-triangle.webp|alt=5508 gilt dial with red-triangle bezel insert|Gilt dial and red-triangle insert
File:Ref 5508 bezel-dial-closeup.webp|alt=5508 standard two-line gilt dial and bezel|Two-line gilt dial
File:Ref 5508 hands.webp|alt=5508 Mercedes hands and lollipop seconds hand|Mercedes and lollipop hands
File:Ref 5508 case-profile.webp|alt=5508 case profile without crown guards|Small-crown case profile
File:Ref 5508 red-triangle-hero.webp|alt=5508 red-triangle bezel insert|Red-triangle bezel insert
File:Ref 5508 historical-example.webp|alt=5508 no-crown-guard Submariner example|No-crown-guard example
</gallery>


== Sources ==
== Sources ==
 
* [https://newsroom.rolex.com/watches/oyster-collection/submariner Rolex, "The Submariner — history and specifications"]
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/rolex-submariner-history-part-2-the-55xx-1680references/ History of the Rolex Submariner — Part 2, The 55XX References and 1680 Date] — Tom Mulraney (Monochrome, 2020)
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/rolex-submariner-history-part-2-the-55xx-1680references/ History of the Rolex Submariner — Part 2, The 55XX References and 1680 Date] — Tom Mulraney (Monochrome, 2020)
* [https://www.fratellowatches.com/grail-material-1959-rolex-submariner-ref-5508/ Grail Material: 1959 Rolex Submariner Ref. 5508] (Fratello)
* [https://www.fratellowatches.com/grail-material-1959-rolex-submariner-ref-5508/ Grail Material: 1959 Rolex Submariner Ref. 5508] (Fratello)
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Latest revision as of 07:58, 29 September 2026


Submariner › 5508

Rolex 5508 Submariner
Rolex 5508 Submariner

The 5508 is the last small-crown 100m Submariner without crown guards. Auction catalogues usually date its production to 1958–1962, with some sources placing the launch in 1957. It is the small-crown counterpart to the big-crown 5510, with a 6mm crown and a 100m rating. Caliber 1530 examples are documented with 17, 25, and 26 jewels. Sean Connery's on-screen Submariner in Dr. No (1962) was a big-crown 6538; the “James Bond Submariner” label for the 5508 is collector shorthand rather than on-screen provenance.

Core facts

detail value
reference 5508
family Submariner (no date)
production usually dated 1958 to 1962; some sources place the launch in 1957
serial cluster 361,650 (1958) → 489,831 (1959) → 762,896 (1962, II.62 caseback) → 764,524 (1962); rough envelope 360k–410k for 1958–59 jumping to 760k+ for 1962
case 37mm small-crown, no crown guards (later examples thicker through the case middle but still 37mm-class)
crown 6mm Brevet — small crown, distinct from the 8mm big-crown 6538/5510 and the later 7mm guarded 5512/5513
crown guards none
movement caliber 1530, automatic; documented jewel counts include 17, 25, and 26; chronometer-rated variants appear later in the run
depth rating 100m / 330ft, two-line layout (some 1959 onward four-line "Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified" variants documented)
crystal acrylic
lume radium → exclamation transition in 1962 (the underline transition is a 5512/5513 feature in 1963, not a 5508 feature)

Where it sits in the line

The 5508 sits at the end of the small-crown 100m branch. It ran alongside the big-crown 200m 5510 and ended in 1962, before the 5512 brought crown guards, a 7mm crown, and caliber 1560. The 5508 inherited the small-crown case from the 6204 and 6205 and used the slimmer, bidirectional caliber 1530 in place of the earlier A260 family.

The 6mm Brevet crown distinguishes the 5508 from the later 7mm guarded references. The 6538's 8mm crown carries the same Brevet marking; the marking identifies the period, not the crown size.

Production outline

Production is generally dated 1958 to 1962. Sotheby's and Bonhams catalogue the launch as a replacement for the 6536/1 in 1958; Phillips documents a 1962 example. Le Monde Edmond places the launch in 1957, so the start year remains a source disagreement.

Use case-back date codes alongside serials when assigning a build year — Rolex date-coded casebacks separately from serials. Phillips Geneva NINE 2019 lot 213 (case 361,650, "circa 1958") and Bonhams Feb 2018 lot 24627/98 (1959, 6251H rivet bracelet) anchor the launch period; Sotheby's Watches Online 2020 lot 37 (case 489,831, circa 1959) and Antiquorum Geneva 2020 lot 333-422 (case 490,575, circa 1958) populate the early-band cluster. The late cluster sits in the 762k–764k band: Phillips Hong Kong SPORTS 2019 lot 881 (case 762,896, II.62 caseback), Antiquorum Forte Dei Marmi 2021 (case 764,122, 1962), Antiquorum Monaco 2024 (case 764,196, 1962), Phillips Geneva XV 2022 lot 160 (case 764,524, 1962). The general Rolex serial charts in circulation (1958 ~224k–328k, 1962 ~643k) under-shoot the 5508-observed serials because the head-stamping ran later than the catalog-year for this specific reference.

Most documented 5508 examples have glossy black gilt dials, with gilt-coloured printing. Late-run examples include the exclamation-dial transition.

Movement notes

The 5508 introduces caliber 1530 to the small-crown line. Bonhams and Sotheby's catalogue copy commonly cites 25 jewels, while Phillips lots document 26 jewels. Other published records cite 17 jewels. The surviving examples support 17, 25, and 26 as documented counts during the run, but they do not provide a complete serial-by-serial transition.

The 1530 is not chronometer-rated at launch. The chronometer-rated four-line "Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified" dial is therefore a later 5508 spec, not the day-one configuration. Le Monde Edmond describes the 1530 as a later design than the 6536/1's 1030; that comparison does not establish a serial cutoff. The chronometer-rated upgrade to caliber 1560 follows on the 5512.

Caliber 1530 belongs to the same 12½-ligne movement family as the earlier 1030, with documented fitment in the 5508. Published height figures vary by source, so the page does not use a single height value to identify a watch.

Dial map

Gilt dial with red triangle bezel insert
Gilt dial with red triangle bezel insert

The documented 5508 dial groups are two-line standard dials, four-line “SCOC” dials, and late exclamation dials with a luminous dot below 6 o'clock. The “six-line” label seen in some listings is not established here. Underline dials belong to the 5512 and 5513 from 1963, after the 5508 run.

Standard two-line gilt

Glossy black lacquer dial with gilt-coloured printing, Mercedes hour and minute hands, lollipop seconds, two-line "Submariner / 100m=660ft" layout. Some examples carry a Singer manufacturer marking on the reverse, visible only with the dial removed; Singer was one of the principal Swiss dial suppliers to Rolex during this period, and the back-stamp is a useful provenance indicator on loose dials.

  • Bezel and dial closeup on a standard two-line 5508
    Bezel and two-line dial, standard gilt configuration
  • Mercedes hands and lollipop seconds hand on a 5508 dial
    Mercedes hands and lollipop seconds hand

Four-line "SCOC" gilt

A subset of 5508 dials carry the "Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified" line above 6 o'clock — the four-line layout. Antiquorum's 2008 Revolution sale lot 204 explicitly catalogues a "Gilt Four Line" 5508. The four-line dial coexists with the two-line dial during overlapping years rather than replacing it cleanly. A four-line dial identifies a chronometer-marked example in the cited lot records. The available evidence does not establish a universal jewel-count transition or a serial-by-serial pairing between the 17-, 25-, and 26-jewel executions.

Exclamation dial (1962)

Late-run 5508s carry an exclamation dot beneath the depth rating at 6 o'clock. The dot is associated with the radium-to-tritium transition and appears in published 1962 examples. Phillips Hong Kong SPORTS 2019 lot 881, Phillips Geneva XV 2022 lot 160, and Antiquorum Forte Dei Marmi 2021 lot 340-173 document examples in that cluster.

Tropical gilt

Tropical 5508 dials are black gilt dials that have aged to brown or chocolate tones. Sotheby's Fine Watches 2023 lot 40 and a documented 1959 example with serial 489,xxx provide published comparisons. Faded bezel inserts and period riveted bracelets occur on some examples, but neither is a rule for every tropical dial.

Service dials

Rolex service-replacement dials are documented on surviving 5508s. A service dial may have cleaner printing or different luminous material than an original dial. Compare the dial, movement, and provenance together, and distinguish a factory replacement from a third-party refinish rather than assuming a clean dial is original.

Case, bezel, crystal, and crown

Small crown case profile — no crown guards
Small crown case profile — no crown guards

The 5508 case is small-crown and unguarded throughout. The 6mm Brevet crown distinguishes it from the 6538 and 5510's 8mm crowns and the 5512 and 5513's 7mm guarded crowns. The crown carries the Rolex coronet and Brevet marking used during this period.

The acrylic crystal and rotating dive bezel carry over from the earlier 6204 lineage. The 100m rating continues the small-crown specification used from the 6204. The later crown-guard 5512 moved to a 200m rating. The bezel insert reads gilt minute graduations on a black ground, with a luminous triangle at 12; Published examples include a red-triangle insert, with the 12 marker filled with red enamel or lacquer. The standard production fitment is the all-black insert.

5508 fitted with the red-triangle bezel insert variant
5508 fitted with the red-triangle bezel insert variant

The caseback is smooth externally; the interior can carry the reference, case number, and Roman-quarter date code (II.62 indicates the second quarter of 1962). Use the date code with the serial and the rest of the watch because the observed 5508 serials do not map neatly onto general Rolex charts.

Bracelets, end links, clasps, and packaging notes

Period-correct delivery bracelets on the 5508 split across three references depending on year and option. The earliest examples ship with the 6251H riveted Oyster (Bonhams Feb 2018, 1959 example with clasp 2/68 marking a service event but original-style fitment). The 7206 fixed-link riveted Oyster is the period-correct mainstream fitment — Bonhams Dec 2023 lot 38 documents a 1958 example with clasp 4/69, and Phillips Hong Kong 2019 lot 881 documents the 1962 fitment with end-link 64. The 6636 expandable riveted Oyster is the third documented original-delivery option — Phillips Geneva XV 2022 lot 160 (1962, clasp 4/64) and Phillips Geneva NINE 2019 (riveted Oyster with deployant clasp 1/58) anchor the 6636 fitment.

The 9315 folded-link Oyster is a later replacement rather than a period 5508 delivery fitment in the cited records. A 9315 on a 5508 should therefore be treated as a service or later replacement until its provenance shows otherwise. The cited bracelet reference dates reference-number stamps on the largest rivet link to 1962. An unstamped bracelet may predate that change; the clasp and end links still need separate checks. Clasp date codes are the cleanest single-component dating tool: a clasp dating later than the case head implies a swap or service-era replacement.

A 1962 example is documented with a period presentation box. That lot does not establish how often original packaging survives.

Bond association

Collectors sometimes call the 5508 a “James Bond Submariner,” but the on-screen watch in Dr. No was the big-crown 6538. Auction houses use the small-crown label for the 5508 as a catalogue convention, not as proof that it appeared in the film.

No-crown-guard 5508 example
No-crown-guard 5508 example

Special branches

The late exclamation dials mark the radium-to-tritium transition. Four-line SCOC dials appear alongside standard two-line dials, and tropical examples are aged finishes rather than separate reference variants.

Historical market and auction record

Sale Lot Year Serial Variant Hammer
Phillips Geneva NINE 213 2019 361,650 1958 black gilt, red triangle insert CHF 500,000
Phillips Hong Kong SPORTS 881 2019 762,896 1962 exclamation gilt, II.62 caseback, 7206/64 bracelet HK$ 2,687,500
Phillips Geneva XV 160 2022 764,524 1962 exclamation, 6636 clasp 4/64 CHF 132,300
Antiquorum Geneva 333-422 2020 490,575 1958 ghost bezel, rivet bracelet '63 CHF 56,250
Antiquorum Forte Dei Marmi 340-173 2021 n/a 1962 chapter-ring exclamation gilt EUR 33,750
Antiquorum Monaco 370-227 2024 764,196 1962 signature dial est. EUR 20,000–40,000
Bonhams 24627/98 2018 n/a 1959 black, 6251H rivet GBP 9,375 incl. premium
Bonhams 28036/38 2023 n/a 1958 gilt, 7206 clasp 4/69 est. GBP 15,000–20,000
Sotheby's Watches Online 2 n/a 2020 n/a small-crown James Bond catalogue copy
Sotheby's Fine Watches 5 40 2023 400,505 1958 tropical with 1960 papers
Sotheby's Cologne n/a 2023 n/a 1962 small-crown James Bond est. EUR

The auction records cover different years, variants and markets, so they do not establish a market trend. A service dial or replacement bracelet also changes the comparison, so each result needs to be read with its lot description.


Related references

See also the Submariner family index, movement reference, bracelet & clasp guide, and serial numbers by year.

  • Rolex 5508 Submariner small-crown case
    5508 small-crown Submariner
  • 5508 gilt dial with red-triangle bezel insert
    Gilt dial and red-triangle insert
  • 5508 standard two-line gilt dial and bezel
    Two-line gilt dial
  • 5508 Mercedes hands and lollipop seconds hand
    Mercedes and lollipop hands
  • 5508 case profile without crown guards
    Small-crown case profile
  • 5508 red-triangle bezel insert
    Red-triangle bezel insert
  • 5508 no-crown-guard Submariner example
    No-crown-guard example

Sources

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