Reference:2490: Difference between revisions

[checked revision][checked revision]
site-wide: domain move BezelBase → Rolexopedia (rolexopedia.net)
Update 2490 evidence and qualify Bubbleback classification
 
(4 intermediate revisions by 2 users not shown)
Line 1: Line 1:
{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex 2490 Oyster Perpetual Bubbleback "Army Dial"}}
{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex 2490 Oyster Perpetual, "Army Dial" example}}
{{#seo:
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex 2490 Bubbleback "Army Dial" — 1945 Tonneau-Shaped Self-Winding | Rolexopedia
|title=Rolex 2490 Oyster Perpetual — 1945 “Army Dial” example | Rolexopedia
|description=The Rolex 2490 is a 1945 tonneau-shaped Oyster Perpetual Bubbleback in stainless steel, catalogued by Antiquorum as an "Army Dial" example with an Oyster Patent crown and period petites mailles bracelet. Only one documented example has surfaced at auction.
|description=The Rolex 2490 is an early self-winding Oyster Perpetual. Antiquorum catalogued a tonneau-shaped steel example in 1945 as an “Army Dial”; seller listings also report black mixed-numeral and copper-dial examples, but provide less evidence.
|keywords=Rolex, 2490, Bubbleback, Oyster Perpetual, vintage Rolex, tonneau, Army Dial
|keywords=Rolex, 2490, Bubbleback, Oyster Perpetual, vintage Rolex, tonneau, Army Dial
|image=Ref 2490 hero.webp
|image=Ref 2490 hero.webp
|image_alt=Rolex 2490 Bubbleback, Army Dial, stainless steel
|image_alt=Rolex 2490 Oyster Perpetual, stainless steel, case no. 423682
|type=Article
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|og_type=article
Line 11: Line 11:
}}
}}


<small>[[Reference:oyster-perpetual|Oyster Perpetual]] -&gt; '''2490'''</small>
<small>[[Reference:oyster-perpetual|Oyster Perpetual]] › '''2490'''</small>


The 2490 is a tonneau-shaped Oyster Perpetual from 1945, self-winding, in stainless steel. Antiquorum catalogued its only publicly documented example as an "Army Dial" Rolex — the house's own name for the piece, not an official Rolex term. The dial itself explains the label: black, with a mixed Roman-and-Arabic numeral set (XI and I in Roman at the top, then plain Arabic 8, 7, 5, 4 around the lower half), signed "Rolex Oyster Perpetual" above center and "Self Winding" below, a layout closer to military field-watch convention than the all-Arabic or all-baton dials more typical of the Bubbleback range. The watch also carries center seconds, an "Oyster Patent" crown, and a period stainless steel "petites mailles" bracelet on a deployant clasp, all catalogued together as a single unit rather than head-and-bracelet mismatched at some later point.
<div class="rp-lead">
[[File:Ref 2490 hero.webp|thumb|center|640px|alt=Rolex 2490 Oyster Perpetual, Army Dial, case no. 423682|Rolex 2490 Oyster Perpetual, “Army Dial,” case no. 423682]]
</div>
 
Antiquorum dated its steel, tonneau-shaped ref. 2490 to 1945 and called its black mixed-numeral dial “Army Dial.” That is the catalogue’s label; no Rolex source found here uses it as a model name. The lot also lists center seconds, an “Oyster Patent” crown and a petites-mailles bracelet with deployant clasp. The bracelet was catalogued with the watch; its original fitment is unverified.


<span id="core-facts"></span>
<span id="core-facts"></span>


[[File:Ref 2490 hero.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=Rolex 2490 Bubbleback, Army Dial, stainless steel|Rolex 2490 Bubbleback, "Army Dial," case no. 423682]]
==Core facts==


== Core facts ==
{| class="wikitable rp-facts"
 
{| class="wikitable"
|-
|-
! detail
! detail
Line 30: Line 32:
|-
|-
| family
| family
| Oyster Perpetual (Bubbleback)
| Oyster Perpetual; included in some collector Bubbleback lists
|-
|-
| common name
| common name
| "Bubbleback"; Antiquorum catalogued its documented example as an "Army Dial" Rolex
| Antiquorum called its 1945 example an “Army Dial” Rolex; collector charts group 2490 with Bubblebacks
|-
|-
| production
| production
Line 39: Line 41:
|-
|-
| case
| case
| tonneau-shaped, stainless steel, water-resistant Oyster case
| tonneau-shaped, stainless steel, water-resistant Oyster case; 32mm diameter and 14mm thick in the documented lot
|-
|-
| movement
| movement
| self-winding ("Oyster Perpetual, Self-Winding" per Antiquorum's own lot description)
| self-winding; Antiquorum gives no caliber number or jewel count
|-
|-
| dial (documented)
| dial (documented)
| black, mixed Roman/Arabic numerals (Roman XI, I; Arabic 8, 7, 5, 4), "Rolex Oyster Perpetual" signed above center, "Self Winding" below, center-seconds layout, original hands
| black with luminous Arabic and Roman numerals, baton indexes and outer minute track; original hands noted by Antiquorum
|-
|-
| documented examples
| reported examples
| Antiquorum lot 218, Hong Kong, 8 June 2008, case no. 423682
| Antiquorum lot 218, Hong Kong, 8 June 2008, case no. 423682; a 2007 Vintage Rolex Forum seller described a steel 2490, serial prefix 249xxx, as a 1944 watch with a black California dial. Kikuya Camera & Watch later listed a steel 2490 with a copper dial. Neither listing has accessible case-marking evidence.
|}
|}


Line 54: Line 56:
== Where it sits in the line ==
== Where it sits in the line ==


"Bubbleback" is a collector nickname for the Oyster Perpetual generation built between 1933 and the mid-1950s around the domed caseback the early automatic rotor required. Most Bubblebacks of this era are round; the 2490 is tonneau-shaped, a case profile more commonly associated with Rolex's manual-wind Prince and Oyster lines of the same period. What keeps the 2490 in the Bubbleback family rather than those manual lines is the movement: Antiquorum's own lot description specifies "Oyster Perpetual, Self-Winding," not a hand-wound caliber. The "bubble" in the nickname refers to the domed caseback the automatic rotor demanded, not strictly to a round outer case — Rolex clearly built at least some tonneau-cased examples around the same self-winding movement generation.
“Bubbleback” is a collector name for early automatic Oyster Perpetuals with a domed back to clear the rotor. A 2013 Rolex Forums chart places 2490 in its Bubbleback list. Antiquorum identifies the 1945 example as self-winding, but does not describe its caseback profile. The grouping is plausible; the auction record alone does not establish the domed caseback or caliber.


<span id="production-outline"></span>
<span id="production-outline"></span>
== Production outline ==
== Production outline ==


Only one 2490 has surfaced with public documentation: case no. 423682, dated 1945 by Antiquorum, sold at the house's Hong Kong sale on 8 June 2008 (lot 218) against a HKD 50,000&ndash;65,000 estimate, hammering at HKD 60,000. Antiquorum's own notes for the lot point to comparable examples published in Franca and Guido Mondani's ''1908-2008, 100th Anniversary of Rolex'' (p. 15) — evidence the reference was known to specialist Rolex historians independent of this specific sale, even though no second auction result has turned up alongside it. The lot's condition grading records the case as "good, scratched," the movement as "good, overhaul recommended," and the dial as "good" with original hands — a worn, honestly-graded example rather than a restored or over-polished one.
The best-documented example is case no. 423682, which Antiquorum dated to 1945 and sold in Hong Kong on 8 June 2008 as lot 218. The catalogue cites comparable watches in Franca and Guido Mondani’s 1908-2008, 100th Anniversary of Rolex (p. 15). It grades the case “good, scratched,” the movement “good, overhaul recommended, at buyer’s expense,” and the dial “good,” with original hands noted. A 2007 Vintage Rolex Forum sale post describes a steel example with serial prefix 249xxx, dated by the seller to 1944 and described with a black California dial. Kikuya Camera & Watch lists a steel ref. 2490 with a copper dial. The forum images could not be retrieved, and the Japanese listing’s image is a missing-image placeholder. These listings are leads; the dial labels and watch identities remain unverified.


<span id="movement-notes"></span>
<span id="movement-notes"></span>
== Movement notes ==
== Movement notes ==


Antiquorum's lot description states only that the movement is self-winding; no caliber number or jewel count is given, and the movement grading ("good, overhaul recommended, at buyer's expense") indicates the example was sold as-is rather than freshly serviced.
Antiquorum describes a self-winding movement but gives no readable caliber number or jewel count. Its condition note recommends an overhaul at the buyer’s expense.


<span id="dial-map"></span>
<span id="dial-map"></span>
== Dial map ==
== Dial map ==


The dial is black with a mixed numeral set unusual for the Bubbleback range: Roman numerals at XI and I, Arabic numerals at 8, 7, 5 and 4, and applied luminous batons filling the remaining hour positions. "Rolex Oyster Perpetual" is signed above the coronet logo at center, "Self Winding" below it. The hands are a broad triangular hour hand and a matching baton minute hand, both aged to a warm patina, with a thin red-tipped sweep-adjacent seconds hand run from center — consistent with the center-seconds movement Antiquorum's description specifies.
Antiquorum describes the dial on case 423682 as black, with luminous Arabic and Roman numerals, baton indexes and an outer minute track. It records the hands as original. The 2007 seller calls its dial “California”; Kikuya calls its dial copper. Both are seller descriptions, and neither listing provides accessible photographs for checking the dial.


<span id="case-bezel-crystal-and-crown-notes"></span>
<span id="case-bezel-crystal-and-crown-notes"></span>
== Case, bezel, crystal, and crown ==
== Case, bezel, crystal, and crown ==


The case is tonneau-shaped stainless steel, described by Antiquorum as water-resistant, with an "Oyster Patent" crown — Rolex's period marking for its screw-down waterproof crown system. The bracelet is a stainless steel Rolex "petites mailles" (small-link) design on a deployant clasp, catalogued as part of the same lot rather than a later replacement, and the watch was sold with its original box.
Antiquorum describes case 423682 as a two-body steel case with a domed polished bezel, concave lugs, screwed caseback and crown. It measures 32 mm across and 14 mm thick. The lot included a Rolex petites-mailles bracelet, deployant clasp and box. Those accessories were sold with the watch; the catalogue does not establish original delivery.


== Related references ==
== Related references ==
Line 95: Line 97:
|}
|}


The 2490 is thinly documented next to the rest of the Bubbleback range: this is the only publicly traceable example, and no second case number, dial variant, or metal configuration has surfaced to compare it against.
The cited sources include one auction catalogue record for ref. 2490. Forum and dealer listings add leads, but do not establish the reference’s production span or dial range.


== Sources ==
== Sources ==


* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-206-218 "Ref. 2490, 'Army Dial' Rolex, 'Oyster Perpetual, Self-Winding', case No. 423682", lot 218, Hong Kong, Antiquorum, 8 June 2008]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-206-218 "Ref. 2490, 'Army Dial' Rolex, 'Oyster Perpetual, Self-Winding', case No. 423682", lot 218, Hong Kong, Antiquorum, 8 June 2008]
* [https://www.rolexforums.com/showthread.php?page=2&t=273244 w-v-m, “Rolex Model Reference Number Chart,” Rolex Forums, 5 January 2013; community list includes ref. 2490 among Bubblebacks]
* [https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/vintagerolexforum/fs-several-vintage-rolex-watches-take-a-latatk-t55362.html Vintage Rolex Forum, 2007 seller listing for ref. 2490, serial prefix 249xxx]
* [https://kikuya-camera.shop-pro.jp/?pid=169522443 Kikuya Camera & Watch, used Rolex ref. 2490 listing; describes a stainless-steel case and copper dial]
* Franca Mondani and Guido Mondani, ''1908-2008, 100th Anniversary of Rolex'', Mondani Editore, p. 15 (per Antiquorum's lot notes, citing comparable examples)
* Franca Mondani and Guido Mondani, ''1908-2008, 100th Anniversary of Rolex'', Mondani Editore, p. 15 (per Antiquorum's lot notes, citing comparable examples)
* [https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-rolex-bubbleback-and-why-it-still-matters Anthony Traina, "The Rolex Bubbleback And Why It Still Matters", Hodinkee, 2024]
* [https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-rolex-bubbleback-and-why-it-still-matters Anthony Traina, "The Rolex Bubbleback And Why It Still Matters", Hodinkee, 2024]
* [https://robbreport.com/style/watch-collector/lists/rolex-bubbleback-watches-collector-guide-1931-1950s-1235893131/ Oren Hartov, "Rolex Bubbleback Watches: A Collector's Guide, From 1931 to the 1950s", Robb Report, 2024]


[[Category:Oyster Perpetual]]
[[Category:Oyster Perpetual]]