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{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex COMEX}}
{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex COMEX}}
{{#seo:
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex COMEX — Sea-Dweller & Submariner Dive History | Rolexopedia
|title=Rolex COMEX watches — documented references and auction records | Rolexopedia
|description=The Rolex COMEX program is the institutional Submariner / Sea-Dweller branch supplied to Compagnie Maritime d'Expertises in Marseille between 1971 and 1997. Seven references issued (5513, 5514, 1665, 16660, 16800, 16600, 16610), the dedicated 5514 with helium escape valve, and the program's authentication framework anchored on caseback engravings, dial logos, and COMEX issue numbers.
|description=Rolex dates its COMEX partnership to 1971. This guide compares documented Submariner and Sea-Dweller references, auction records, dial signatures and caseback markings.
|keywords=Rolex COMEX, COMEX Submariner, COMEX Sea-Dweller, 5514, 1665 COMEX, 16660 COMEX, 16610 COMEX, helium escape valve, Henri Delauze, saturation diving, COMEX 377, COMEX 850, COMEX 878
|keywords=Rolex COMEX, COMEX Submariner, COMEX Sea-Dweller, 5514, 1665 COMEX, 16660 COMEX, 16610 COMEX, helium escape valve, Henri-Germain Delauze, saturation diving, COMEX 377, COMEX 850, COMEX 878
|image=Ref comex hero.webp
|image=Ref comex hero.webp
|image_alt=Rolex 5513 Submariner COMEX No. 58, 1970, with helium escape valve
|image_alt=Rolex Submariner 5513 with COMEX caseback marking
|type=Article
|type=article
|og_type=article
|og_type=article
|published_time=2026-04-30T03:30:44Z
|published_time=2026-04-30T03:30:44Z
|modified_time=2026-07-18T14:18:56Z
|modified_time=2026-09-25T08:10:51Z
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
}}
}}
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<div class="rp-lead">
<div class="rp-lead">
[[File:Ref comex hero.webp|thumb|center|640px|alt=5513 COMEX No. 58, 1970 — presented by COMEX to a North Sea diver on completion of the company’s first North Sea contract. Phillips Geneva Watch Auction: THREE, May 2016, lot 121.|5513 COMEX No. 58, 1970 — presented by COMEX to a North Sea diver on completion of the company’s first North Sea contract. Phillips Geneva Watch Auction: THREE, May 2016, lot 121.]]
[[File:Ref comex hero.webp|thumb|center|640px|alt=Rolex Submariner 5513 COMEX No. 58|5513 COMEX No. 58, Phillips Geneva Watch Auction: THREE, lot 121 (2016)]]
</div>
</div>


The COMEX-issued Rolex is the institutional dive-watch branch that sits adjacent to the retail Submariner and Sea-Dweller, supplied by Rolex to Compagnie Maritime d'Expertises in Marseille between roughly 1971 and 1997 for working saturation divers. It is an issue program rather than a single reference, touching seven Rolex references over a quarter-century, with caseback engravings, dial logos, and serialised diver numbers separating each watch from its retail counterpart. The 5514 was built as a dedicated COMEX product. The 5513, 1665, 16660, 16800, 16600, and 16610 were retail references modified or marked at supply for COMEX issue.
Rolex and the French marine-engineering company Compagnie Maritime d’Expertises (COMEX) began working together in 1971, according to Rolex. Auction catalogues document COMEX-marked or COMEX-issued Submariners and Sea-Dwellers from the 5513 through the five-digit references. The records vary by watch: some have COMEX dial text, some have a caseback issue number, and some early 5513s carry a helium escape valve.


COMEX itself was a French commercial saturation-diving outfit founded by Henri Delauze in 1962, headquartered in Marseille, supplying divers to the offshore oil and gas industry through the boom years of North Sea, West African, and Persian Gulf field development. COMEX divers worked at depths and durations beyond the reach of conventional military or sport divers, living for days or weeks in hyperbaric chambers pressurised with helium-bearing breathing gases. The watches Rolex supplied to COMEX were tools for that work; their helium escape valves, caseback engravings, and dial logos all trace back to the practical demands of saturation diving rather than to retail product strategy.
The reference 5514 was made specifically for COMEX. Most other watches in the program use an existing Submariner or Sea-Dweller reference. “COMEX watch” therefore describes an issue and service history, not one uniform specification.


==Core facts==
==Core facts==
Line 28: Line 28:
|-
|-
! detail
! detail
! value
! documented information
|-
|-
| program client
| client
| Compagnie Maritime d'Expertises (COMEX), Marseille
| Compagnie Maritime d’Expertises (COMEX), based in Marseille
|-
|-
| founder
| relationship
| Henri Germain Delauze (1962)
| Rolex dates the partnership to 1971; the company’s founding date is reported as 1961 or 1962 in published sources
|-
|-
| Rolex supply window
| references
| circa 1971 to 1997
| 5513, 5514, 1665, 1680, 16660, 16800, 168000, 16600 and 16610 appear in auction and specialist records
|-
|-
| total references issued
| reference made for COMEX
| seven (5513, 5514, 1665, 16660, 16800, 16600, 16610)
| 5514; the other entries use existing Submariner or Sea-Dweller references
|-
|-
| dedicated COMEX reference
| identifying evidence in published lots
| 5514 only
| COMEX dial signatures, caseback markings, serial details, paperwork and owner history vary by watch. No one feature authenticates a watch by itself
|-
|-
| signature features
| documented supply tail
| COMEX-printed dial logo (red or white), caseback engraving with COMEX issue number, helium escape valve on Sea-Dwellers and 5514
| 16600 and 16610 examples are catalogued in the 1990s. Christie’s also describes 16600 issue 3553 and 16610 issue 6650 watches as circa 2007; both numbers fall outside commonly cited ranges
|-
| issue numbering
| sequential COMEX-issued diver number, engraved on caseback ("Rolex COMEX [number]")
|-
| supply tail
| Rolex wound down direct supply in the mid-1990s; a final batch of 16610 examples surfaced from a later cache
|}
|}


==Where COMEX sits in the line==
==Where COMEX sits in the line==


[[File:Comex divers-context.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=COMEX Submariners against a saturation-diving scene|COMEX Submariners in the working environment: a 16610-date COMEX with a no-date 5513 COMEX, composite from Robb Report's 2024 COMEX feature]]
COMEX used Rolex dive watches in its underwater engineering and saturation-diving work. Rolex’s own history dates the relationship to 1971 and says COMEX divers wore Sea-Dwellers. The company’s later auction and service records add Submariner references and individual watch histories. They do not support treating every COMEX watch as a standard saturation-diving configuration.
 
The Submariner and Sea-Dweller went to retail through Rolex's standard distribution; the COMEX branch went to a single institutional client through a parallel supply channel for working professional use. Casebacks were Rolex-engraved at the factory before delivery to COMEX in Marseille, where the watches were issued to individual divers and recorded in COMEX's own service log. Periodic six-month service intervals brought the watches back to Rolex through the program's lifespan, which is why so many surviving COMEX examples carry service-replacement dials, hands, or movement parts that diverge from original-delivery configuration.


The COMEX branch is closer in spirit to the British Royal Navy 5517 MilSub branch than to the retail Submariner: a small, traceable issue run with a defined client, period documentation, and an authentication framework anchored on caseback engravings and program records. The two branches served different work. MilSub examples went to combat divers in the SBS and SAS at relatively shallow operational depths; COMEX examples went to commercial saturation divers working oilfield infrastructure at depths where helium permeation and decompression physics drive the design.
[[File:Comex divers-context.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=COMEX Submariners against a saturation-diving scene|COMEX watches in a saturation-diving context; composite image credited to Robb Report’s 2024 feature]]


==Issue timeline==
==Issue timeline==


Rolex's COMEX supply spans four broadly distinguishable eras across roughly 25 years.
The dates below come from Rolex’s partnership history and named auction catalogues. They are dates for the relationship or for catalogued examples, not a complete factory delivery ledger.


{| class="wikitable"
{| class="wikitable"
|-
|-
! Era
! reference
! Span
! documented example or range
! References issued
! source-specific note
! Signature configuration
|-
| 5513
| Prototype examples dated circa 1970–1971
| Phillips and Sotheby’s catalogue early cases with helium escape valves; Antiquorum documents COMEX No. 24 dated autumn 1970
|-
|-
| Prototype and early issue
| 5514
| 1970–1972
| Commonly dated circa 1972–1978
| 5513 (modified, helium escape valve)
| A dedicated COMEX reference; published production totals differ
| Modified 5513 cases with experimental helium escape valves; small unnumbered or low-double-digit issue numbers; non-logo or early COMEX-stamped dials
|-
|-
| First production wave
| 1665
| 1972–1978
| Phillips dates a group of examples to 1977–1981
| 5514, 1665
| Its 2018 lot essay describes an approximately 300-watch group numbered 2000–2300
| Dedicated 5514 reference codifies the Submariner-with-HEV product; 1665 Sea-Dweller carries its own COMEX dial-print and caseback variant in parallel; issue numbers run into the high-three-digit range
|-
|-
| Five-digit transition
| 1680
| 1978–1989
| Christie’s lists COMEX examples circa 1978–1979
| 16660, 16800
| Those are catalogue dates for the cited examples
| Sapphire crystal, 1220m / 4000ft Sea-Dweller depth rating on the 16660; matte-to-gloss dial transition; later batches carry the white-text COMEX logo
|-
|-
| Final issue and tail
| 16660
| 1989–1997
| COMEX lots include early-1980s examples
| 16610, 16600
| Christie’s describes issue numbers 3000–3099 with matte dials and 3100–3199 with gloss dials in its catalogue research
| Submariner Date 16610 enters COMEX issue at the end of the supply relationship; small known cohort; issue tapered as Rolex wound down the supply program in the mid-1990s
|-
| 16800
| Auction catalogues document individually numbered examples
| A 2025 Antiquorum lot is marked issue 6087; the lot does not establish a complete production count
|-
| 168000
| Bonhams and Antiquorum attribute COMEX 6243 differently
| Bonhams calls it 16800; Antiquorum calls it 168000/16800
|-
| 16600
| Sotheby’s dates a group to 1992–1997 and estimates about 200 watches
| Christie’s catalogues issue 3553 circa 2007, outside the commonly cited 3200–3400 range
|-
| 16610
| Phillips describes a group supplied circa 1989–1997
| Christie’s catalogues issue 6650 circa 2007, outside the range cited for the main group
|}
|}
The 5513 COMEX is itself two distinct populations: the 1970–1971 prototype watches that pre-date the dedicated 5514 and carry experimental HEV cases, and the standard 5513 (no HEV) examples issued to COMEX divers for shallower work where saturation gas mixes were not in play.


==The references in the program==
==The references in the program==
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===5513 COMEX===
===5513 COMEX===


The 5513 COMEX is the earliest COMEX-issued Submariner. The Antiquorum Geneva 144-323 lot (2006) documents the prototype configuration on case 2,833,552, COMEX No. 24, autumn 1970: a 5513 case with experimental helium escape valve, COMEX-logo matte dial, and 9315 folded-link Oyster bracelet. Beyond the prototype run, standard 5513 COMEX examples without HEV were issued to COMEX divers through the early-to-mid 1970s for shallower duties where gas-mix saturation was not a factor. The COMEX dial logo appears in both red and white printing across the 5513 run, with the red logo reading as the earlier configuration. The COMEX branch is one of several issue-specific 5513 sub-populations; the [[Reference:5513|5513]] article carries the full dial map and production outline.
Auction records place early 5513 COMEX watches around 1970–1971. Phillips lot 121 (2016) records case 2,837,865, issue 58, a Cal. 1520 movement, and a caseback date of III.70. Sotheby’s lot 3 (2022) describes another early example, issue 163, with a non-COMEX dial. Antiquorum’s No. 24 example is dated autumn 1970. The issued population and any division between test, prototype and diver watches are not established by these three lots. These lots show that a COMEX dial logo was not present on every early documented watch.
 
The later 5513 and the experimental-valve examples should not be treated as one fixed configuration. See the [[Reference:5513|5513 article]] for the broader reference history.
 
[[File:Ref comex 5513.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=5513 COMEX Submariner with 660ft=200m dial|A 5513 COMEX Submariner catalogued with a 660ft=200m dial]]


===5514===
===5514===
The 5514 is the only reference in this group identified as made specifically for COMEX. Its case derives from the 5513 and includes a helium escape valve. Auction lots document both COMEX-logo and non-logo dials, different caseback engravings and individual issue numbers. The inner caseback of documented examples is stamped 5513; the 5514 designation appears elsewhere on the case. The dedicated [[Reference:5514|5514 article]] covers its variants and the ARA-marked example.


<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
File:Ref comex 5514-dial.webp|alt=5514 COMEX 377 dial|5514 COMEX No. 377: matte dial, boxed COMEX logo, 660ft=200m. Phillips New York Watch Auction: SIX, 2022, lot 153.
File:Ref comex 5514-dial.webp|COMEX 377, Phillips New York Watch Auction SIX, lot 153 (2022)
File:Comex 5514 hero.webp|alt=Rolex 5514 COMEX Submariner — Maurice Bessard, COMEX 850|Rolex 5514 COMEX Submariner, formerly the property of COMEX agent Maurice Bessard (case 4,462,758, COMEX issue 850), circa 1977. Sotheby's Important Watches, Hong Kong, April 2021, lot 2140.
File:Comex 5514 hero.webp|COMEX 850, formerly owned by COMEX agent Maurice Bessard, Sotheby’s Hong Kong, lot 2140 (2021)
File:Ref comex 5514-lug-stamp.webp|5514 designation between the lugs; the photographed inner back is stamped 5513
</gallery>
</gallery>


The 5514 is the only Rolex reference number assigned specifically for COMEX. Production ran from circa 1972 to 1978 across the auction record and specialist research; total program output is contested between the often-repeated "about 154" figure and the reading Corrado Mattarelli published in Revolution in 2018, which documents at least three production batches with distinct caseback engraving sizes. The 5514 carries a 5513-derived case modified with a Rolex-designed helium escape valve at 9 o'clock, caliber 1520 movement, and "COMEX" caseback engraving with a sequential issue number running into the high-800s by 1977. Inner casebacks are stamped 5513 — the 5514 designation appears between the lugs and on the outer caseback only. The dedicated [[Reference:5514|5514]] article carries the full dial map, caseback evolution, ARA Argentine Navy variant, and lot-by-lot auction record.
===1665 COMEX===
 
COMEX 1665 examples retain the Sea-Dweller’s helium escape valve and carry COMEX-specific dial or caseback details in some documented lots. A Phillips 2018 lot essay places an approximately 300-watch group in 1977–1981, with issue numbers 2000–2300. That is the auction house’s reported range, not a complete delivery register.


===1665 COMEX===
One auctioned example, issue 2129, has the white COMEX signature often called “Great White.” The nickname describes that dial layout. The [[Reference:1665|1665 article]] covers the main reference’s dial and case variants.


<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
File:Ref comex 1665.webp|alt=1665 Great White COMEX 2129|1665 Great White COMEX No. 2129, 1979, case 5,746,318 — white-text COMEX logo on the 2000ft=600m dial. Antiquorum Monaco, January 2022, lot 162.
File:Ref comex 1665.webp|COMEX 1665 No. 2129, Antiquorum Monaco, lot 162 (2022)
File:Ref comex 1665-dial-detail.webp|alt=Great White dial detail|Dial detail: boxed COMEX logo above the 2000ft=600m depth rating, SWISS-T<25 tritium marking. Antiquorum Monaco, January 2022, lot 162.
File:Ref comex 1665-dial-detail.webp|Dial of the same No. 2129 example
File:Ref comex 1665 caseback.webp|Caseback of the same No. 2129 example
</gallery>
</gallery>


The 1665 Sea-Dweller went to COMEX with its own dial logo and caseback engraving from the early 1970s. The COMEX 1665 carries the standard 1665 Sea-Dweller architecture — gas-tight 200m / 1220m construction, helium escape valve at 9 o'clock from the production debut, "Submariner 2000" or "Sea-Dweller Submariner 2000" dial text — supplemented by COMEX dial print and caseback issue number. Two distinct COMEX-1665 dial configurations are documented across the run: an early "Double Red" Sea-Dweller layout with red "Sea-Dweller Submariner 2000" text and the COMEX block above 6 o'clock, and a later white-text-only configuration. Alongside the standard retail Sea-Dweller, the COMEX 1665 is one of two main institutional branches of the reference; the wider production outline sits on the [[Reference:1665|1665]] page.
===16660 COMEX===


===16660 COMEX===
Auction catalogues document COMEX 16660 watches with both matte and glossy dials. Christie’s describes issues 3000–3099 as originally delivered with matte dials and issues 3100–3199 with gloss dials and applied markers. Sotheby’s 2026 catalogue repeats the matte-dial finding for the first group and notes later service replacements. The Sotheby’s and Christie’s catalogues both describe the matte dial across the 3001–3099 issue group.


[[File:Ref comex 16660.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=16660 COMEX|16660 COMEX: white-text logo on the glossy dial, 4000ft=1220m. Antiquorum Monaco, 2025, lot 108.]]
The 16660 uses Cal. 3035; Christie’s lists 27 jewels on issue 3009. A photographed Antiquorum 2025 example has a glossy dial, but that example alone does not define the whole run. See the [[Reference:16660|16660 article]].


The [[Reference:16660|16660]], the Sea-Dweller "Triple Six", entered COMEX issue around 1979 as the sapphire-crystal successor to the 1665. The 16660 introduced the 1220m / 4000ft depth rating, the larger 25-jewel caliber 3035, and the matte-to-gloss dial transition that runs through the early 1980s. COMEX 16660 examples carry a white-text COMEX logo above 6 o'clock on a glossy black dial with white-gold surrounds. Caseback engraving follows the 1665 COMEX format, with a sequential issue number that picks up from the 1665 run rather than restarting.
[[File:Ref comex 16660.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=COMEX 16660 Sea-Dweller with glossy dial|COMEX 16660 example catalogued by Antiquorum in 2025]]


===16800 COMEX===
===16800 COMEX===


The [[Reference:16800|16800]] Submariner Date is the rarest COMEX configuration on a Submariner-Date case. Documentation of 16800 COMEX examples is thin in published auction-house literature; the configuration surfaces occasionally with COMEX dial print and caseback engraving but exact issue counts have not been consolidated in primary sources. Bonhams and Antiquorum lot text from the late 2000s and 2010s document a small number of confirmed examples. 16800 COMEX provenance warrants high authentication scrutiny given the scarcity of published references against which to cross-check issue numbers and caseback formatting.
Auction catalogues document COMEX-marked 16800 Submariners, including Sotheby’s issue 6084 (2024), an Antiquorum 2025 example marked 6087, and a Bonhams circa-1987 listing for issue 6243. A separate Antiquorum 2010 listing describes issue 6243 as “168000/16800,” circa 1988. The overlap leaves the reference assignment of No. 6243 unclear. The 2025 lot records service history and documentation attributed to Jacques Bianchi in Marseille. None of these listings establishes a complete production count or a numbering system shared across references.


===16600 COMEX===
[[File:Ref comex 16800.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=16800 COMEX caseback, issue number 6087|Caseback shown in Antiquorum Monaco, lot 149 (2025)]]


The [[Reference:16600|16600]] Sea-Dweller succeeded the 16660 in 1989 with the upgraded caliber 3135. COMEX 16600 examples are relatively well-documented compared to the 16800; Phillips and Sotheby's lots from the 2010s establish issue numbers running into the low-to-mid three-digit range during the early 1990s phase of the supply relationship.
===1680 COMEX===


===16610 COMEX===
Christie’s dates COMEX-marked 1680 examples to circa 1978–1979. The 1680 has no helium escape valve in its standard Submariner case. Antiquorum’s 2020 catalogue describes an approximately 60-watch batch and says examples went to employees, customers and suppliers. That is the auction house’s account, not a complete delivery ledger. Christie’s and Sotheby’s also catalogue individual 1680 COMEX watches dated circa 1978. See the [[Reference:1680|1680 article]].


[[File:Ref comex 16610.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=16610 COMEX|16610 COMEX, the final issued reference: white-text logo on the 1000ft=300m dial. Antiquorum Monaco, 2025, lot 149.]]
===16600 COMEX===


The [[Reference:16610|16610]] Submariner Date is the final COMEX-issued reference, with a small cohort issued in the mid-1990s before Rolex wound down the supply program. Surviving 16610 COMEX examples carry the white-text COMEX logo at 6 o'clock and caseback engraving in the late-format "wrap-around" style established on the 5514 from 1975 onward. A late batch surfaced after Rolex had ended direct supply, prompting authentication scrutiny among specialists; the consensus reading is that the late-batch caseback engravings were executed by Rolex during a final program-windup pass rather than aftermarket.
Sotheby’s describes approximately 200 COMEX 16600 watches supplied between 1992 and 1997 in two groups, with straight and curved caseback layouts. Its examples include issues 3382 and 3379. Phillips catalogued a 1997 example associated with the Hydra-Ludion missions.


==Caseback engraving and dial logo==
Christie’s later catalogued a circa-2007 16600, issue 3553, and described it as possibly among the last watches delivered to COMEX. Its issue number falls outside the commonly cited 3200–3400 group. That catalogue is a reported exception, not proof of a new batch or a settled final-delivery date. See the [[Reference:16600|16600 article]].
<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
File:Comex 5514 caseback-engraving.webp|alt=COMEX 850 caseback engraving wrap-around format|"ROLEX / COMEX 850" caseback engraving in the wrap-around format used on mid-period 5514s.
File:Comex 5514 caseback-detail.webp|alt=COMEX 850 caseback close-up|Caseback close-up: COMEX 850, the issue number that ties the watch to its diver. Sotheby's Hong Kong, April 2021, lot 2140.
File:Comex 5514 helium-valve-profile.webp|alt=5514 helium escape valve at 9 o'clock|The 5514 carries a one-way helium escape valve at 9 o'clock — the feature that defines the COMEX-specific reference. Sotheby's Hong Kong, April 2021, lot 2140.
</gallery>


The COMEX caseback evolves through three documented engraving styles across the program lifespan, all factory-engraved by Rolex rather than by COMEX in the field.
===168000 COMEX===


The early straight-line format runs from the prototype era through about 1975: "Rolex COMEX" written in straight lines across the caseback with a small or medium issue number stacked beneath. The watch identifier ("Submariner 2000" on the 1665, the reference number between the lugs on the 5514) is engraved in the standard position; the COMEX block sits below.
The Antiquorum 2010 catalogue describes a circa-1988 COMEX watch as “168000/16800,” issue 6243; Bonhams catalogued the same issue number as a 16800 circa 1987. The available catalogue descriptions conflict over the reference, so No. 6243 is not counted as a second watch or treated as a settled 168000 attribution.  


The mid-1970s wrap-around format introduces "Rolex Comex" curved around the caseback edge with a deeply engraved issue number — the so-called "Big Numbers" caseback, canonical on Antiquorum 2025 lot 383-172 (COMEX 878, 1977). The shift from straight-line to wrap-around runs roughly 1975 onward across both Submariner and Sea-Dweller cases.
===16610 COMEX===


The five-digit-era format on the 16660, 16800, 16600, and 16610 retains the wrap-around layout but tightens the engraving depth and font. Late-program 16610 examples carry the cleanest wrap-around format, with issue numbers in the three-digit range despite the program's quarter-century span — an indication that issuance was per-watch and per-diver rather than per-batch, with reissues and reassignments documented in COMEX's own service log.
Phillips describes a group of approximately 250 16610 watches supplied around 1989–1997 and catalogues issue 6471 as likely a late example. Christie’s later listed a circa-2007 16610, issue 6650, outside the commonly cited range, and said it may have been one of the last shipped. The catalogue does not establish when or by whom its caseback engraving was made.


The dial logo runs in two main configurations: red printing on early matte dials (1972 through about 1977) and white printing on later glossy dials (mid-1970s onward through the program's end). The transition is not clean: red and white logos coexist across the late 1970s and into the early 1980s on the 1665 and 5514. Service-replacement dials issued by Rolex during the program's lifespan are common on surviving examples; a service-replaced non-logo dial on a watch with documented COMEX issue number is plausible service work rather than a fake, though it is not the original-delivery configuration.
[[File:Ref comex 16610.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=COMEX 16610 Submariner with COMEX dial signature|COMEX 16610 catalogued by Antiquorum Monaco in 2025]]


==Movements==
==Caseback engraving and dial logo==


The COMEX program spans every major Submariner and Sea-Dweller movement of the era. The 5513 prototypes and the 5514 carry caliber 1520, the long-run non-chronometer caliber that powers the standard 5513. The 1665 carries the 1575 (Sea-Dweller chronometer-track) through its production span. The 16660 introduces the 25-jewel 3035 with the 1979 reference debut; the 16600, 16800, and 16610 carry the 3135 from 1988 onward. Service-replacement movements are documented across all references; a 5514 with a caliber 1570 movement is typically a service swap rather than original-delivery configuration, and the same logic applies to 3035-to-3135 swaps on five-digit references.
The cited lots show more than one caseback layout. Phillips describes an early 1665 with a straight-line Rolex/COMEX engraving; Sotheby’s documents a 5514 with a curved layout; Sotheby’s also notes straight and curved layouts on separate 16600 delivery groups. These observations are tied to the named references and watches. They do not support a single engraving chronology for every COMEX reference.


==Authenticating a COMEX==
COMEX logos also vary. Auction records include non-logo 5513 and 5514 examples, red-signature dials, and later white-signature dials. Service history can change what is fitted to a watch. A dial or engraving that resembles a published example is not, by itself, proof of issue or authenticity.


COMEX is among the most-faked Rolex variants. Populations are small, the casebacks were engraved at Rolex rather than in the field, and unmodified retail-spec donors sit in the same case shapes. A standard 5513, 1665, or 16610 case fitted with a forged COMEX caseback is the canonical fake. The authentication framework rests on five anchors.
<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
File:Comex 5514 caseback-engraving.webp|Curved caseback engraving on COMEX 850, Sotheby’s Hong Kong, lot 2140 (2021)
File:Comex 5514 caseback-detail.webp|Detail of the COMEX 850 caseback
File:Comex 5514 helium-valve-profile.webp|Helium escape valve on the same 5514
</gallery>


Caseback engraving font, depth, and layout must track the period: early straight-line versus mid-period wrap-around versus late-program tight-engraved. A 1975-or-later case fitted with an early straight-line caseback (or vice versa) is a swapped or refurbished part. Mattarelli's specialist research documents three engraving sizes overall (small / medium / large), with the size correlating to production batch.
==Movements==


Mid-case serial must match the serial engraved inside the caseback lid on documented examples. Rolex marked many program watches with the matching mid-case serial inside the lid for special-order traceability; mismatch on a watch claiming COMEX provenance is fatal.
COMEX watches use the movement from their underlying reference, subject to service history. Auction records identify Cal. 1520 in the cited 5513 and 5514 examples. Phillips lists Cal. 1520 for its 1665 issue 2012, while the 1665 is normally listed with Cal. 1575; that lot description is an outlier. Christie’s identifies Cal. 3035 in 16660 issue 3009 and the ambiguous 168000/16800 issue 6243. The 1680 lot 5008 has Cal. 1570. Sotheby’s and Phillips list Cal. 3135 in the 16600 and 16610 examples. See [[Reference:Movements|Movements]] for the broader caliber record.


Inner caseback markings differ from the outer engraving. On the 5514, the inner caseback stamps 5513, because the 5514 designation appears between the lugs and on the outer engraving only. Any inner-caseback 5514 stamp is a forgery flag. On the 1665 and later Sea-Dwellers, the inner caseback follows the standard reference-specific stamping.
==Records and identification==


The issue number has to sit plausibly inside the bands documented in auction-house lot text. COMEX 24 carries an autumn 1970 prototype configuration; COMEX 233 carries an early-1970s caseback; COMEX 377 sits in the mid-1970s; COMEX 850 and 878 carry the 1977 "Big Numbers" wrap-around. A claimed COMEX 200 with late-program wrap-around engraving is incoherent.
A COMEX dial, caseback number, matching case details or an auction description can help identify what a particular watch is claimed to be. None is a stand-alone authentication test. Several cited lots have service parts, non-logo dials or unusual issue numbers, and the records disagree on date ranges and delivery counts. A buyer or researcher needs the watch’s own case, movement, service and ownership records assessed together by a qualified vintage Rolex specialist. This page records published evidence; it does not authenticate individual watches.
 
External validators include Henry Hudson letters from Rolex Bexley UK, which confirm the caseback engraving and the COMEX issue number. Bexley no longer issues them. Forgeries of the letters themselves are a separate concern and have surfaced in the market.
 
Forensic researcher Jose Pereztroika (Perezcope) has published several deep dives on COMEX caseback execution; the published forensic literature on COMEX rests primarily on Mattarelli, Perezcope, and the catalog essays from Phillips and Antiquorum specialists rather than on Rolex factory documentation, which is not publicly available for the program.


==Auction record==
==Auction record==
[[File:Comex 5514 bessard-papers.webp|thumb|right|220px|alt=COMEX 850 accessories: Bessard ID card and Rolex France service receipt|COMEX accessories that anchor a watch to its diver: Maurice Bessard's COMEX agent card (no. 16.0554) and a Rolex France service receipt signed by Bessard.]]


Major-house lots establish the COMEX market spine.
These selected auction records document individual watches across the program. Definite sale results are included where the auction house publishes them; two later catalogue outliers are included to show the date and issue-number conflicts.


{| class="wikitable"
{| class="wikitable sortable"
|-
|-
! Sale
! auction
! Lot
! lot and example
! Year
! published result
! Reference / COMEX no.
! Configuration
! Hammer
|-
|-
| Phillips New York Watch Auction SIX
| Phillips Geneva Watch Auction: THREE (2016)
| NY080222/153
| Lot 121; 5513, case 2,837,865, COMEX 58, date code III.70
| 2022
| CHF 56,250
| 5514 / 377
| 1975 case 4,089,919, matte black COMEX-logo, 9315 bracelet, Henry Hudson letter
| USD 252,000
|-
|-
| Phillips Geneva
| Antiquorum Geneva (2006)
| CH080215/145
| Lot 144-323; 5513, case 2,833,552, COMEX 24, dated autumn 1970
| 2015
| 5514 / 446
| 1974 non-logo, "Cuerpo Infanteria" Argentine Navy joint
| CHF 52,500
|-
| Phillips Geneva, "Daytona Ultimatum"
| various COMEX lots
| 2018
| 5514 and 1665 examples
| mixed-period cases including ARA-engraved 5514
| multiple six-figure CHF results
|-
| Sotheby's Hong Kong
| HK Important Watches 2021
| 2021
| 5514 / 850
| 1977 matte COMEX-logo, Maurice Bessard provenance
| HKD high-six-figure
|-
| Sotheby's Important Watches
| London 2018
| 2018
| 1665 "Great White" / COMEX-issued
| 1977 white-text COMEX dial, Sea-Dweller caseback engraving
| GBP 220,000+
|-
| Sotheby's Important Watches
| New York 2023
| 2023
| 5514 / case 4,089,906
| service-replaced non-logo dial on documented COMEX issue
| USD high-five-figure
|-
| Antiquorum Geneva
| 144-323
| 2006
| 5513 / COMEX 24 (prototype)
| 1970 case 2,833,552, COMEX-logo matte, Fliplock 9315, earliest documented COMEX
| CHF 76,700
| CHF 76,700
|-
|-
| Antiquorum New York
| Phillips New York Watch Auction SIX (2022)
| 223-373
| Lot 153; 5514, COMEX 377, case 4,089,919
| 2009
| USD 252,000
| 5514 / no logo (prototype batch ~20)
| 1972 case 3,804,841, non-logo painted indexes
| USD 72,000
|-
|-
| Antiquorum Monaco
| Phillips New York Watch Auction EIGHT (2023)
| 383-172
| Lot 19; 1665, COMEX 2012, case 5,148,108
| 2025
| USD 78,740
| 5514 / 878
| 1977 case 5,230,258, "Big Numbers" wrap-around caseback
| EUR 91,840
|-
|-
| Bonhams London
| Sotheby’s Hong Kong (2021)
| 16228/302
| Lot 2140; 5514, COMEX 850, associated with Maurice Bessard
| 2008
| Result not listed here
| 5514 / 763
| 1976 case 5,230,248, COMEX 660ft=200m, Middle East Safety Department log books
| est. GBP 50,000–70,000
|-
|-
| Bonhams London
| Sotheby’s Hong Kong (2015)
| 23511/43
| Lot 2052; 16600, COMEX 3382, U-serial example
| 2016
| Result not listed here
| 5514 / 723
| c.1975 case / 1977-78 issue, COMEX matte, 93150 K3 clasp
| GBP 72,100
|-
|-
| Bonhams London
| Christie’s
| 30667/69
| Lot 6584442; 16610, COMEX 6650, catalogued circa 2007
| 2018
| Estimate/result not used; catalogue describes the issue number as outside the commonly cited range
| 5514 / 233
| Colin Beard provenance, c.1971 case + later service
| GBP 25,600
|-
|-
| Christie's Geneva, Important Watches
| Christie’s
| 2014
| Lot 6584524; 16600, COMEX 3553, catalogued circa 2007
| 2014
| Estimate/result not used; catalogue describes the issue number as outside the commonly cited range
| 1665 COMEX double-red
| Sea-Dweller Submariner 2000 layout, COMEX dial print
| CHF 200,000+
|}
|}


The USD 252,000 Phillips New York result on COMEX 377 in 2022, against a USD 60,000-120,000 estimate, is the strongest documented public-auction result in the program. The 1665 COMEX with double-red dial and matched papers has hammered consistently in the GBP 200,000-plus range across the 2014–2024 period, while the 5514 spread runs from roughly USD 50,000 for service-heavy late-program examples up to the USD 252,000 paid for the best-documented one. ARA-engraved 5514 examples, of which 16 were issued to Argentine Navy divers training at the COMEX Marseille facility in 1977, command a separate premium and surface less frequently than standard COMEX 5514 examples.
Auction descriptions and results are evidence about those lots. They are not a census or price guide.


==Henri Delauze and the program tail==
[[File:Comex 5514 bessard-papers.webp|thumb|right|220px|alt=COMEX 850 accessories: Bessard identity card and Rolex France service receipt|COMEX 850 papers and service receipt catalogued with the Maurice Bessard watch]]


Henri Germain Delauze founded Compagnie Maritime d'Expertises in Marseille in 1962, building it into the dominant European commercial saturation-diving operator of the offshore-oil boom. COMEX's diving research arm conducted the deep-saturation experiments — Janus, Hydra, Physalie — that pushed working diving depths toward and beyond 500 metres in the 1970s and 1980s. The Rolex supply relationship spanned most of that arc.
==Henri-Germain Delauze and the Rolex relationship==


Delauze died in February 2012. COMEX wound down its commercial diving operations through the 2010s and exited oilfield work; the corporate entity continues today in offshore marine engineering rather than human saturation diving. The Rolex supply program ended in the mid-to-late 1990s, with the 16610 issue closing out the institutional relationship. Surviving program documents — the COMEX service logs and diver assignment records — sit primarily in private specialist archives rather than in public corporate hands.
Rolex dates its relationship with COMEX to 1971 and says the company’s divers wore Sea-Dwellers at depth. Its account also describes an ongoing collaboration in testing dive watches in hyperbaric chambers. Rolex’s public history does not give a final supply date.
 
Published sources give COMEX’s founding year as either 1961 or 1962. The company was founded by Henri-Germain Delauze, who died in February 2012. COMEX continues to describe its work in hyperbaric engineering and underwater operations. Auction records document COMEX-marked Rolex watches after 1997, including two lots catalogued circa 2007 with issue numbers outside the commonly cited ranges. Those records leave the final delivery date unresolved.


== Related references ==
== Related references ==


* [[Reference:submariner|Submariner family index]]
* [[Reference:submariner|Submariner family index]] and [[Reference:sea-dweller|Sea-Dweller family index]]
* [[Reference:sea-dweller|Sea-Dweller family index]]
* [[Reference:5513|5513]], [[Reference:5514|5514]], [[Reference:1680|1680]], [[Reference:16800|16800]] and 168000 Submariner examples
* [[Reference:5514|Submariner 5514]] — the COMEX-only Submariner reference
* [[Reference:1665|1665]], [[Reference:16660|16660]] and [[Reference:16600|16600]] Sea-Dwellers
* [[Reference:1665|Sea-Dweller 1665]] — COMEX-issued Double Red and Great White
* [[Reference:16610|16610]] Submariner Date
* [[Reference:16660|Sea-Dweller 16660]] — COMEX-issued Triple Six
* [[Reference:Movements|Movement guide]]
* [[Reference:16600|Sea-Dweller 16600]] — later COMEX Sea-Dwellers
 
<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
File:Ref comex hero.webp|5513 COMEX No. 58, Phillips 2016
File:Comex divers-context.webp|5513 and 16610 COMEX watches in a diving context
File:Ref comex 5513.webp|5513 COMEX Submariner
File:Ref comex 16660.webp|16660 COMEX example
File:Ref comex 16800.webp|16800 COMEX No. 6087 caseback
File:Ref comex 16610.webp|16610 COMEX Submariner
File:Comex 5514 bessard-papers.webp|COMEX 850 papers and Rolex France service receipt
File:Ref comex 5514-dial.webp|5514 COMEX No. 377 dial
File:Comex 5514 hero.webp|5514 COMEX No. 850
File:Ref comex 5514-lug-stamp.webp|5514 designation between the lugs
File:Ref comex 1665.webp|1665 COMEX No. 2129
File:Ref comex 1665-dial-detail.webp|Dial of COMEX No. 2129
File:Ref comex 1665 caseback.webp|Caseback of COMEX No. 2129
File:Comex 5514 caseback-engraving.webp|5514 COMEX No. 850 caseback
File:Comex 5514 caseback-detail.webp|Detail of COMEX No. 850 engraving
File:Comex 5514 helium-valve-profile.webp|Helium valve on the COMEX 850 case
</gallery>


== Sources ==
== Sources ==


* ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' — Colin A. White, Morning Tundra
* [https://www.rolex.com/en-us/about-rolex/history/1971-1992 Rolex, “History: 1971–1992”] — dates the Rolex–COMEX relationship to 1971 and records Sea-Dweller use by COMEX divers.
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/NY080222/153 Phillips watches department, "Phillips New York Watch Auction SIX, lot 153 — Rolex Submariner Ref. 5514 COMEX No. 377", Phillips, 2022]
* [https://www.rolex.com/en-us/about-rolex/behind-the-crown/mastering-waterproofness Rolex, “Mastering waterproofness”] — explains Rolex’s account of the partnership, reporting, and hyperbaric testing.
* [https://www.phillips.com/auctions/auction/CH080118 Phillips watches department, "Phillips Geneva Daytona Ultimatum — COMEX context lots and catalog essay", Phillips, 2018]
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/97846 Phillips Geneva Watch Auction: THREE, lot 121 (2016)] — 5513 COMEX 58, case and caseback details, date code, and result.
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080215/145 Phillips watches department, "Phillips Geneva — Rolex 5514 COMEX 446 Cuerpo Infanteria Argentine Navy joint variant", Phillips, 2015]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-144-323 Antiquorum Geneva, lot 323 (2006)] — 5513 COMEX 24 example and result.
* [https://www.phillips.com/article/91552127 Phillips watches department, "Phillips MilSub and COMEX discovery essay", Phillips, 2019]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2022/fine-watches/submariner-comex-ref-5513-with-helium-escape-valve Sotheby’s, 5513 COMEX 163 (2022)] — early non-COMEX-dial example and individual case details.
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2021/important-watches-hong-kong Sotheby's watches department, "Sotheby's Hong Kong Important Watches — Rolex 5514 COMEX 850 Maurice Bessard", Sotheby's, 2021]
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/NY080222/153 Phillips New York Watch Auction SIX, lot 153 (2022)] — 5514 COMEX 377 and result.
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/2018/important-watches-l18068 Sotheby's watches department, "Sotheby's London — Rolex 1665 Great White COMEX-issued Sea-Dweller", Sotheby's, 2018]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2021/important-watches-hong-kong Sotheby’s Hong Kong, lot 2140 (2021)] — 5514 COMEX 850 and the auction house’s Bessard provenance account.
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2023/important-watches-ny Sotheby's watches department, "Sotheby's Important Watches NY — 5514 COMEX with service-replaced non-logo dial (case 4,089,906)", Sotheby's, 2023]
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/184800 Phillips New York Watch Auction EIGHT, lot 19 (2023)] — 1665 COMEX 2012 and 1977–1981 group estimate.
* [https://www.antiquorum.com/auctions/important-collectors-wristwatches-pocket-watches-and-clocks-geneva-2006 Antiquorum watches department, "Antiquorum Geneva lot 144-323 — Rolex 5513 COMEX No. 24 prototype (autumn 1970, case 2,833,552)", Antiquorum, 2006]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-1665-sea-dweller-comex-lot-347-162 Antiquorum Monaco, lot 162 (2022)] — 1665 COMEX 2129, case, date and dial details.
* [https://www.antiquorum.com/auctions/monaco-2025 Antiquorum watches department, "Antiquorum Monaco lot 383-172 — Rolex 5514 COMEX 878 Big Numbers caseback (1977)", Antiquorum, 2025]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2026/important-watches-ge2601/sea-dweller-comex-reference-16660-a-stainless-steel Sotheby’s Geneva, lot 92 (2026)] — 16660 COMEX 3067; discussion of the 3001–3099 matte-dial group and later service dials.
* [https://www.antiquorum.com/auctions/important-collectors-wristwatches-new-york-2009 Antiquorum watches department, "Antiquorum NY lot 223-373 — Rolex 5514 prototype-batch no-logo (1972, case 3,804,841)", Antiquorum, 2009]
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6394724 Christie’s, 16660 COMEX 3009] — lot details and its reported 3000–3099 / 3100–3199 dial groups.
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auctions/16228/lot/302 Bonhams watches department, "Bonhams London lot 16228/302 — Rolex 5514 COMEX 763 (1976, Middle East Safety Department log books)", Bonhams, 2008]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-243-332 Antiquorum New York, lot 332 (2010)] — describes issue 6243 as 168000/16800, circa 1988.
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auctions/23511/lot/43 Bonhams watches department, "Bonhams London lot 23511/43 — Rolex 5514 COMEX 723 (1975 case / 1977-78 issue)", Bonhams, 2016]
* [https://images1.bonhams.com/original?src=Images%2Flive%2F2020-07%2F16%2FS-25956-0-1.pdf Bonhams, COMEX issue 6243, circa 1987] — catalogue identifies it as a 16800, creating a reference-attribution conflict with Antiquorum’s listing.
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auctions/30667/lot/69 Bonhams watches department, "Bonhams London lot 30667/69 — Rolex 5514 COMEX 233 (Colin Beard provenance)", Bonhams, 2018]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-1680-submariner-lot-329-346 Antiquorum Geneva, lot 329-346 (2020)] — 1680 COMEX, circa 1978, and the auction house’s account of its allocation.
* [https://www.christies.com/en/auction/important-watches-geneva-2014 Christie's watches department, "Christie's Geneva Important Watches — Rolex 1665 COMEX double-red Sea-Dweller", Christie's, 2014]
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6316354 Christie’s, 1680 COMEX 5008] — case and issue details, circa 1978.
* [https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-brief-history-of-rolex-and-comex Jason Heaton, "Hodinkee — A Brief History of Rolex and COMEX", Hodinkee, 2014]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-16800-16800-comex-lot-383-149 Antiquorum Monaco, lot 383-149 (2025)] — 16800 COMEX issue 6087 and accompanying documentation as described by the auction house.
* [https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-sea-dweller-reference-points Hodinkee, "Hodinkee Reference Points — Understanding the Rolex Sea-Dweller", Hodinkee, 2018]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/important-watches/reference-16800-submariner-comex-a-stainless-steel Sotheby’s Geneva (2024)] — COMEX 16800 issue 6084.
* [https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-submariner-reference-points Stephen Pulvirent, "Reference Points: Understanding The Rolex Submariner", Hodinkee, 2019-07-18]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2019/important-watches-ge1901/lot.53.html Sotheby’s Geneva, lot 53 (2019)] — COMEX 16600 issue 3379 and Theo Mavrostomos provenance.
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/rolex-comex-submariner-sea-dweller-history/ Monochrome, "Monochrome — Rolex COMEX Submariner and Sea-Dweller feature", Monochrome, 2017]
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080116/119 Phillips Geneva Watch Auction: THREE, lot 119 (2016)] — 16600 associated with Hydra-Ludion missions.
* [https://www.windvintage.com/journal Eric Wind, "Wind Vintage — COMEX provenance and the Submariner / Sea-Dweller branch", Wind Vintage, 2020]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2015/important-watches-hk0589/lot.2052.html Sotheby’s Hong Kong, lot 2052 (2015)] — COMEX 16600 issue 3382, approximate supply group and caseback layouts.
* [https://www.lemondeedmond.com Le Monde Edmond, "Le Monde Edmond — 1665 COMEX coverage", Le Monde Edmond, 2017]
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/121219 Phillips Hong Kong Watch Auction: SEVEN, lot 1028] — 16610 issue 6471 and the auction house’s approximate 1989–1997 group.
* [https://perezcope.com Jose Pereztroika, "Perezcope (Jose Pereztroika) — COMEX caseback forensics", Perezcope, 2021]
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6584442 Christie’s, 16610 COMEX issue 6650] — circa-2007 catalogue description and out-of-range number.
* [https://revolutionwatch.com Corrado Mattarelli, "Revolution — Corrado Mattarelli on the Rolex 5514 COMEX", Revolution, 2018]
* [https://www.christies.com/lot/lot-6584524 Christie’s, 16600 COMEX issue 3553] — circa-2007 catalogue description and out-of-range number.
* [https://www.comex.fr/about COMEX, "Compagnie Maritime d'Expertises — corporate history 1962-2012", COMEX, 2012]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2021/important-watches-hong-kong Sotheby’s Hong Kong, lot 2140 (2021)] — watch and Bessard provenance as described in the lot.
* [https://www.lemonde.fr/disparitions/article/2012/02/16/henri-germain-delauze-fondateur-de-la-comex_1644240_3382.html Le Monde, "Le Monde — Henri-Germain Delauze obituary (2012)", Le Monde, 2012]
* [https://www.comex.fr/about COMEX, company history and activities] — company description and reported 1962 founding date.
* [https://divernet.com Divernet, "Divernet — COMEX and saturation diving history", Divernet, 2015]
* [https://www.lemonde.fr/disparitions/article/2012/02/16/henri-germain-delauze-fondateur-de-la-comex_1644240_3382.html Le Monde obituary for Henri-Germain Delauze (2012)] — biography and death date.
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/rolex-submariner-history-part-2-the-55xx-1680references/ Tom Mulraney, "History of the Rolex Submariner - Part 2, The 55XX References and 1680 Date", Monochrome, 2020-08-19]
* [https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/0b5fdf83/files/uploaded/1.0%20RolexBook-23Mar.pdf Colin A. White, ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual''] — specialist overview and its attributed 5514 production estimate.
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/articles/how-to-start-collecting-the-rolex-submariner Stephen Pulvirent, "The Rolex Submariner: A Complete Collector's Guide", Sotheby's, 2025-03-07]


[[Category:Submariner]]
[[Category:Submariner]]
[[Category:Sea-Dweller]]
[[Category:Sea-Dweller]]
[[Category:COMEX]]
[[Category:COMEX]]
[[Category:References]]
[[Category:References]]
[[Category:References]]

Latest revision as of 08:28, 25 September 2026


Submariner › COMEX

Rolex Submariner 5513 COMEX No. 58
5513 COMEX No. 58, Phillips Geneva Watch Auction: THREE, lot 121 (2016)

Rolex and the French marine-engineering company Compagnie Maritime d’Expertises (COMEX) began working together in 1971, according to Rolex. Auction catalogues document COMEX-marked or COMEX-issued Submariners and Sea-Dwellers from the 5513 through the five-digit references. The records vary by watch: some have COMEX dial text, some have a caseback issue number, and some early 5513s carry a helium escape valve.

The reference 5514 was made specifically for COMEX. Most other watches in the program use an existing Submariner or Sea-Dweller reference. “COMEX watch” therefore describes an issue and service history, not one uniform specification.

Core facts

detail documented information
client Compagnie Maritime d’Expertises (COMEX), based in Marseille
relationship Rolex dates the partnership to 1971; the company’s founding date is reported as 1961 or 1962 in published sources
references 5513, 5514, 1665, 1680, 16660, 16800, 168000, 16600 and 16610 appear in auction and specialist records
reference made for COMEX 5514; the other entries use existing Submariner or Sea-Dweller references
identifying evidence in published lots COMEX dial signatures, caseback markings, serial details, paperwork and owner history vary by watch. No one feature authenticates a watch by itself
documented supply tail 16600 and 16610 examples are catalogued in the 1990s. Christie’s also describes 16600 issue 3553 and 16610 issue 6650 watches as circa 2007; both numbers fall outside commonly cited ranges

Where COMEX sits in the line

COMEX used Rolex dive watches in its underwater engineering and saturation-diving work. Rolex’s own history dates the relationship to 1971 and says COMEX divers wore Sea-Dwellers. The company’s later auction and service records add Submariner references and individual watch histories. They do not support treating every COMEX watch as a standard saturation-diving configuration.

COMEX Submariners against a saturation-diving scene
COMEX watches in a saturation-diving context; composite image credited to Robb Report’s 2024 feature

Issue timeline

The dates below come from Rolex’s partnership history and named auction catalogues. They are dates for the relationship or for catalogued examples, not a complete factory delivery ledger.

reference documented example or range source-specific note
5513 Prototype examples dated circa 1970–1971 Phillips and Sotheby’s catalogue early cases with helium escape valves; Antiquorum documents COMEX No. 24 dated autumn 1970
5514 Commonly dated circa 1972–1978 A dedicated COMEX reference; published production totals differ
1665 Phillips dates a group of examples to 1977–1981 Its 2018 lot essay describes an approximately 300-watch group numbered 2000–2300
1680 Christie’s lists COMEX examples circa 1978–1979 Those are catalogue dates for the cited examples
16660 COMEX lots include early-1980s examples Christie’s describes issue numbers 3000–3099 with matte dials and 3100–3199 with gloss dials in its catalogue research
16800 Auction catalogues document individually numbered examples A 2025 Antiquorum lot is marked issue 6087; the lot does not establish a complete production count
168000 Bonhams and Antiquorum attribute COMEX 6243 differently Bonhams calls it 16800; Antiquorum calls it 168000/16800
16600 Sotheby’s dates a group to 1992–1997 and estimates about 200 watches Christie’s catalogues issue 3553 circa 2007, outside the commonly cited 3200–3400 range
16610 Phillips describes a group supplied circa 1989–1997 Christie’s catalogues issue 6650 circa 2007, outside the range cited for the main group

The references in the program

5513 COMEX

Auction records place early 5513 COMEX watches around 1970–1971. Phillips lot 121 (2016) records case 2,837,865, issue 58, a Cal. 1520 movement, and a caseback date of III.70. Sotheby’s lot 3 (2022) describes another early example, issue 163, with a non-COMEX dial. Antiquorum’s No. 24 example is dated autumn 1970. The issued population and any division between test, prototype and diver watches are not established by these three lots. These lots show that a COMEX dial logo was not present on every early documented watch.

The later 5513 and the experimental-valve examples should not be treated as one fixed configuration. See the 5513 article for the broader reference history.

5513 COMEX Submariner with 660ft=200m dial
A 5513 COMEX Submariner catalogued with a 660ft=200m dial

5514

The 5514 is the only reference in this group identified as made specifically for COMEX. Its case derives from the 5513 and includes a helium escape valve. Auction lots document both COMEX-logo and non-logo dials, different caseback engravings and individual issue numbers. The inner caseback of documented examples is stamped 5513; the 5514 designation appears elsewhere on the case. The dedicated 5514 article covers its variants and the ARA-marked example.

1665 COMEX

COMEX 1665 examples retain the Sea-Dweller’s helium escape valve and carry COMEX-specific dial or caseback details in some documented lots. A Phillips 2018 lot essay places an approximately 300-watch group in 1977–1981, with issue numbers 2000–2300. That is the auction house’s reported range, not a complete delivery register.

One auctioned example, issue 2129, has the white COMEX signature often called “Great White.” The nickname describes that dial layout. The 1665 article covers the main reference’s dial and case variants.

16660 COMEX

Auction catalogues document COMEX 16660 watches with both matte and glossy dials. Christie’s describes issues 3000–3099 as originally delivered with matte dials and issues 3100–3199 with gloss dials and applied markers. Sotheby’s 2026 catalogue repeats the matte-dial finding for the first group and notes later service replacements. The Sotheby’s and Christie’s catalogues both describe the matte dial across the 3001–3099 issue group.

The 16660 uses Cal. 3035; Christie’s lists 27 jewels on issue 3009. A photographed Antiquorum 2025 example has a glossy dial, but that example alone does not define the whole run. See the 16660 article.

COMEX 16660 Sea-Dweller with glossy dial
COMEX 16660 example catalogued by Antiquorum in 2025

16800 COMEX

Auction catalogues document COMEX-marked 16800 Submariners, including Sotheby’s issue 6084 (2024), an Antiquorum 2025 example marked 6087, and a Bonhams circa-1987 listing for issue 6243. A separate Antiquorum 2010 listing describes issue 6243 as “168000/16800,” circa 1988. The overlap leaves the reference assignment of No. 6243 unclear. The 2025 lot records service history and documentation attributed to Jacques Bianchi in Marseille. None of these listings establishes a complete production count or a numbering system shared across references.

16800 COMEX caseback, issue number 6087
Caseback shown in Antiquorum Monaco, lot 149 (2025)

1680 COMEX

Christie’s dates COMEX-marked 1680 examples to circa 1978–1979. The 1680 has no helium escape valve in its standard Submariner case. Antiquorum’s 2020 catalogue describes an approximately 60-watch batch and says examples went to employees, customers and suppliers. That is the auction house’s account, not a complete delivery ledger. Christie’s and Sotheby’s also catalogue individual 1680 COMEX watches dated circa 1978. See the 1680 article.

16600 COMEX

Sotheby’s describes approximately 200 COMEX 16600 watches supplied between 1992 and 1997 in two groups, with straight and curved caseback layouts. Its examples include issues 3382 and 3379. Phillips catalogued a 1997 example associated with the Hydra-Ludion missions.

Christie’s later catalogued a circa-2007 16600, issue 3553, and described it as possibly among the last watches delivered to COMEX. Its issue number falls outside the commonly cited 3200–3400 group. That catalogue is a reported exception, not proof of a new batch or a settled final-delivery date. See the 16600 article.

168000 COMEX

The Antiquorum 2010 catalogue describes a circa-1988 COMEX watch as “168000/16800,” issue 6243; Bonhams catalogued the same issue number as a 16800 circa 1987. The available catalogue descriptions conflict over the reference, so No. 6243 is not counted as a second watch or treated as a settled 168000 attribution.

16610 COMEX

Phillips describes a group of approximately 250 16610 watches supplied around 1989–1997 and catalogues issue 6471 as likely a late example. Christie’s later listed a circa-2007 16610, issue 6650, outside the commonly cited range, and said it may have been one of the last shipped. The catalogue does not establish when or by whom its caseback engraving was made.

COMEX 16610 Submariner with COMEX dial signature
COMEX 16610 catalogued by Antiquorum Monaco in 2025

The cited lots show more than one caseback layout. Phillips describes an early 1665 with a straight-line Rolex/COMEX engraving; Sotheby’s documents a 5514 with a curved layout; Sotheby’s also notes straight and curved layouts on separate 16600 delivery groups. These observations are tied to the named references and watches. They do not support a single engraving chronology for every COMEX reference.

COMEX logos also vary. Auction records include non-logo 5513 and 5514 examples, red-signature dials, and later white-signature dials. Service history can change what is fitted to a watch. A dial or engraving that resembles a published example is not, by itself, proof of issue or authenticity.

Movements

COMEX watches use the movement from their underlying reference, subject to service history. Auction records identify Cal. 1520 in the cited 5513 and 5514 examples. Phillips lists Cal. 1520 for its 1665 issue 2012, while the 1665 is normally listed with Cal. 1575; that lot description is an outlier. Christie’s identifies Cal. 3035 in 16660 issue 3009 and the ambiguous 168000/16800 issue 6243. The 1680 lot 5008 has Cal. 1570. Sotheby’s and Phillips list Cal. 3135 in the 16600 and 16610 examples. See Movements for the broader caliber record.

Records and identification

A COMEX dial, caseback number, matching case details or an auction description can help identify what a particular watch is claimed to be. None is a stand-alone authentication test. Several cited lots have service parts, non-logo dials or unusual issue numbers, and the records disagree on date ranges and delivery counts. A buyer or researcher needs the watch’s own case, movement, service and ownership records assessed together by a qualified vintage Rolex specialist. This page records published evidence; it does not authenticate individual watches.

Auction record

These selected auction records document individual watches across the program. Definite sale results are included where the auction house publishes them; two later catalogue outliers are included to show the date and issue-number conflicts.

auction lot and example published result
Phillips Geneva Watch Auction: THREE (2016) Lot 121; 5513, case 2,837,865, COMEX 58, date code III.70 CHF 56,250
Antiquorum Geneva (2006) Lot 144-323; 5513, case 2,833,552, COMEX 24, dated autumn 1970 CHF 76,700
Phillips New York Watch Auction SIX (2022) Lot 153; 5514, COMEX 377, case 4,089,919 USD 252,000
Phillips New York Watch Auction EIGHT (2023) Lot 19; 1665, COMEX 2012, case 5,148,108 USD 78,740
Sotheby’s Hong Kong (2021) Lot 2140; 5514, COMEX 850, associated with Maurice Bessard Result not listed here
Sotheby’s Hong Kong (2015) Lot 2052; 16600, COMEX 3382, U-serial example Result not listed here
Christie’s Lot 6584442; 16610, COMEX 6650, catalogued circa 2007 Estimate/result not used; catalogue describes the issue number as outside the commonly cited range
Christie’s Lot 6584524; 16600, COMEX 3553, catalogued circa 2007 Estimate/result not used; catalogue describes the issue number as outside the commonly cited range

Auction descriptions and results are evidence about those lots. They are not a census or price guide.

COMEX 850 accessories: Bessard identity card and Rolex France service receipt
COMEX 850 papers and service receipt catalogued with the Maurice Bessard watch

Henri-Germain Delauze and the Rolex relationship

Rolex dates its relationship with COMEX to 1971 and says the company’s divers wore Sea-Dwellers at depth. Its account also describes an ongoing collaboration in testing dive watches in hyperbaric chambers. Rolex’s public history does not give a final supply date.

Published sources give COMEX’s founding year as either 1961 or 1962. The company was founded by Henri-Germain Delauze, who died in February 2012. COMEX continues to describe its work in hyperbaric engineering and underwater operations. Auction records document COMEX-marked Rolex watches after 1997, including two lots catalogued circa 2007 with issue numbers outside the commonly cited ranges. Those records leave the final delivery date unresolved.

Related references

Sources