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{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex 16808 Submariner}}
{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex Submariner 16808}}
{{#seo:
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Submariner 16808 — Production, Dials & Serial Ranges | Rolexopedia
|title=Rolex Submariner 16808 (circa 1979–1987) | Rolexopedia
|description=The 16808 is the full 18k yellow gold Submariner Date — case, bezel, bracelet, crown, and crown tube all in gold — with caliber 3035 and sapphire crystal.…
|description=Collector guide to the gold Rolex Submariner 16808: calibre 3035, dial and marker variants, bezel, bracelets and auction examples.
|keywords=Rolex, 16808, Submariner, specifications, reference guide
|keywords=Rolex, Submariner, 16808, calibre 3035, nipple dial, 92908, 9958
|image=Ref 16808 hero.jpg
|image=Ref 16808 hero.webp
|image_alt=Rolex Submariner Ref. 16808
|image_alt=Yellow gold Rolex Submariner Date reference 16808
|type=Article
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|og_type=article
|published_time=2026-04-14T16:13:29Z
|modified_time=2026-08-04T00:10:23Z
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
}}
}}


<small>[[Reference:submariner|Submariner]] › '''16808'''</small>
<small>[[Reference:submariner|Submariner]] → '''16808'''</small>


<div class="rp-lead">
<div class="rp-lead">
[[File:Ref 16808 hero.jpg|thumb|center|640px|alt=Rolex Submariner Ref. 16808|Rolex Submariner Ref. 16808]]
[[File:Ref 16808 hero.webp|thumb|center|640px|alt=Yellow gold Rolex Submariner Date reference 16808|Rolex Submariner Date 16808.]]
</div>
</div>


The 16808 is the full 18k yellow gold Submariner Date, with case, bezel, bracelet, crown, and crown tube all in gold, caliber 3035 inside, and a sapphire crystal over the top. It is the gold apex of a three-reference generation that also ran the steel 16800 and the two-tone 16803, and the scarcest of the three by some margin. Colin A. White's ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' (Morning Tundra) singles out its gilt nipple dial as the most desirable configuration the reference produced.
The Submariner Date 16808 is the 18k yellow-gold member of the five-digit generation introduced alongside the steel 16800. Its 40mm case uses a sapphire crystal, a 300m depth rating and calibre 3035 with quick-set date. Christie’s and Tom Mulraney date the reference from about 1979 to 1987. The Field Manual gives 1977 in its text but 1979–1987 in its own reference table, so surviving dated examples support a circa-1979 start more clearly than a precise factory launch date.


The gold Submariner lineage runs from 1969 to the present (1680/8 → 16808 → [[Reference:16618|16618]] → 126618), and the 16808 bridges the vintage gold Submariner and the modern one. It carried the advances the 16800 brought to the steel line (sapphire crystal, 300m rating, quick-set date) into a full-gold case.
==Core facts==
 
<span id="launch-date-discrepancy"></span>
 
 
== Launch date discrepancy ==
 
Sources differ on when the 16808 entered production. White's running text gives 1977, while the reference table in the same book gives 1979 to 1987. Monochrome places the run at roughly 1984 to 1988. The spread is wide enough that the three dates are probably measuring different things. 1977 fits internal planning or a small first run, 1979 the Field Manual's own estimate of retail availability, 1984 the point at which production reached real market volume. Rolex has published nothing from its archives and no serial band has been confirmed, so the question stays open. For retail availability, 1979 is the date to work from.
 
End of production is generally placed at 1987 to 1988, when the 16618 replaced the reference with caliber 3135.
 
<span id="core-facts"></span>
== Core facts ==


{| class="wikitable rp-facts"
{| class="wikitable rp-facts"
Line 41: Line 27:
|-
|-
| reference
| reference
| 16808
| <code>16808</code>
|-
|-
| family
| family
Line 47: Line 33:
|-
|-
| production
| production
| DISPUTED: c.1977 (FM text), 1979–1987 (FM table), ~1984–1988 (other sources) — see launch date note
| circa 1979–1987 in Tom Mulraney and Christie’s; Field Manual text gives 1977 while its table gives 1979–1987
|-
|-
| movement
| movement
| caliber 3035 (date, quick-set, 28800 bph)
| calibre 3035, quick-set date, 27 jewels, 28,800 vph
|-
|-
| case
| case
| 40mm, full 18k yellow gold
| 18k yellow gold, commonly catalogued at 40mm
|-
|-
| crystal
| crystal
| sapphire with Cyclops
| sapphire with Cyclops date magnifier
|-
|-
| water resistance
| water resistance
| 300m
| 300m / 1,000ft
|-
|-
| bezel
| bezel
| 18k gold with aluminum insert (blue or black)
| rotating gold bezel with blue or black aluminum insert
|-
|-
| lume
| dial colors
| tritium
| blue or black, commonly paired with a matching insert
|-
| markers and lume
| nipple-style gold markers on some dials; flatter luminous markers also documented; tritium on catalogued examples
|-
|-
| bracelet
| bracelet
| Oyster ref.93158 (full gold), hollow end links
| 18k gold Oyster; 9958 bracelet and 92908 clasp stamp appear on documented examples
|-
| predecessor
| Submariner Date 1680/8
|-
|-
| successor
| successor
| 16618
| Submariner Date 16618, introduced around 1988
|}
|}


<span id="where-it-sits-in-the-gold-submariner-lineage"></span>
==Place in the line==
== Where it sits in the gold Submariner lineage ==


Rolex has built a gold Submariner in every generation since 1969, which makes it one of the few unbroken threads running the length of the family. The 1680/8 opened the line in 1969 with an acrylic crystal and caliber 1570/1575. The 16808 brought the sapphire crystal, the 300m rating, caliber 3035, and the nipple dial. The [[Reference:16618|16618]] (~1988–2009) followed with caliber 3135, Microstella regulation, and the SEL bracelet transition, and the 126618 (2020–present) carries the line at 41mm with caliber 3235 and a ceramic bezel. Across all four the brief held steady, a working dive watch built in precious metal.
The 16808 replaced the gold 1680/8 and arrived with sapphire crystal and calibre 3035. It ran alongside the steel 16800; the two-tone Rolesor 16803 followed around 1984. The 16618 carried the full-gold Submariner Date into the 3135 generation around 1988.


Within its own generation, the [[Reference:16800|16800]] in steel had the widest market and the most production, the [[Reference:16803|16803]] split the difference in two-tone Rolesor with gold in the visible positions over a steel case, and the 16808 went full 18k yellow gold.
The 16808 shares much of the 16800’s case and movement design. Tom Mulraney notes that the inside caseback is stamped <code>16800</code>; Phillips records the same stamp on one 16808 lot. Treat that as a documented feature of the family, then assess the caseback and its fit on the individual watch.


<span id="production-outline"></span>
==Production outline==
== Production outline ==


Taking 1979 for retail availability and 1987–1988 for the changeover to the 16618, the run lands at roughly eight to nine years, close to the steel 16800 that ran alongside it.
Tom Mulraney and Christie’s place the 16808 around 1979–1987. The Field Manual’s table gives the same span, while its running text says “Launched in 1977.” Auction records add dated examples: Christie’s catalogues case 6,412,142 as circa 1979 with a guarantee dated August 1982; Phillips dates case 6,667,544 to circa 1981; and Sotheby’s dates case 9,623,728 to circa 1987. Use these catalogue dates as anchors for the individual watches; they do not date every 16808 by serial.


Forum collectors point to 1981–1982 as a transitional window inside the run, with dial finishing and bracelet components both reported to have shifted. The timing fits the wider churn across the Submariner line in the early 1980s, when Rolex was revising specifications on the steel 16800 at the same time. Early and late 16808 examples divide along that seam.
The bezel insert came in blue or black aluminum, usually paired with a dial of the same color. Tom Mulraney dates the move to a ratcheting unidirectional bezel on the steel 16800 to around 1981. For the gold 16808, check the bezel on the individual watch; the 16800 evidence places the change around 1981.


Production numbers were low, as they were for every full-gold sport Rolex, though no confirmed serial-band data exists to put a figure on it. Beyond dial color and the nipple dial distinction, the reference does not split into meaningful sub-families.
==Movement notes==


<span id="movement-notes"></span>
Calibre 3035 is an automatic date movement with quick-set date, 27 jewels and a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour. The current Movement reference lists 48 hours of power reserve. The 16618 replaced it with calibre 3135.
== Movement notes ==


[[File:Ref 16808 movement.webp|thumb|right|240px|alt=Movement removed from case|Dial and movement removed from the case, showing the winding stem]]
[[File:Ref 16808 movement.webp|thumb|right|240px|alt=Rolex calibre 3035 movement from a Submariner 16808|Calibre 3035, removed for service.]]
The 16808 uses caliber 3035, the same quick-set date movement that powered the 16800 and 16803, running at 28,800 vph. When the 16618 replaced the 16808, the movement upgraded to caliber 3135 with Microstella regulation.


<span id="dial-map"></span>
==Dial map==
== Dial map ==


All dials carry tritium for the full run. No lume transition applies to this reference.
===Blue and black dials===


<span id="gilt-nipple-dial-the-collector-configuration"></span>
The 16808 is documented with blue or black dials and matching blue or black bezel inserts. The markers are applied gold. Early examples use nipple-style markers, with a raised gold center around a luminous plot; flatter luminous markers also appear in the reference’s documented run. Tom Mulraney describes that marker change, while Sotheby’s catalogued a circa-1987 nipple-dial example. Published examples place both styles in the run; their serial order remains unestablished.
=== Gilt nipple dial — the collector configuration ===


Nipple dials carry a small raised dot, or boss, at the center of each applied gold hour marker, which gives the marker set a three-dimensional texture that flat markers do not have. Paired with a gilt finish, that is the configuration the Field Manual rates highest on this reference.
Auction catalogues identify tritium on these dials. The reviewed examples carry tritium markings. Check the lume on each dial, especially where service parts may have been fitted.


The nipple marker appears across the gold-involved Submariners of the 1980s (the 1680/8, the 16803, and the 16808). The 16808 pushes it furthest, a full gold case and bracelet under a gilt nipple dial.
===Color-change dials===


[[File:Ref 16808 dial-detail.webp|thumb|right|240px|alt=Blue nipple dial detail|Blue nipple dial with raised gold hour markers]]
Auction catalogues describe blue dials that aged to brown. Sotheby’s calls the circa-1987 case 9,623,728 a tropical blue dial and says it turned brown; Monaco Legend describes similar brown change on its 1982 example. Sellers sometimes call purple-looking examples violet or purple. Those color names describe appearance; the auction records trace the examples to blue dials that changed with age.


<span id="blue-dial"></span>
[[File:Ref 16808 dial-detail.webp|thumb|right|240px|alt=Blue Rolex Submariner 16808 nipple dial with raised gold hour markers|Blue nipple dial.]]
=== Blue dial ===


The blue dial is a sunburst finish with gold applied markers, gold hands, and gold printed text. It is the configuration that turns up most often.
==Case, bezel, crystal and crown==


<span id="black-dial"></span>
The 18k yellow-gold Oyster case measures about 40mm in most catalogues. Antiquorum recorded a circa-1981 example at 39mm, so catalogue measurements vary by a millimeter. The watch has crown guards, a screw-down Triplock crown, a sapphire crystal and a rotating bezel with an aluminum insert. The dial states 1,000ft=300m on documented examples.
=== Black dial ===


The black dial carries the same gold applied markers against a black base and turns up less often than the blue. Whether that reflects lower production or lower survival is not documented.
The inside caseback stamp <code>16800</code> appears on a Phillips-catalogued 16808 and is also noted by Tom Mulraney. Some watch components may have been replaced during service; assess the case, caseback, movement and papers as separate evidence.


<span id="violet-dial-variant"></span>
[[File:Ref 16808 case-crown.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=18k yellow gold Submariner 16808 case flank with Triplock crown and guards|Gold case, Triplock crown and guards.]]
=== Violet dial variant ===


Forum collectors identify a violet dial as a variant in its own right, separate from the standard blue and black. It reads as a deep purple-blue, and the collectors who track it distinguish it both from the standard blue sunburst and from blue dials that have simply shifted with age. Whether the color left the factory that way or arrives early in the aging process is unsettled. Either way it has a name and a following.
==Bracelet and clasp==


<span id="nipple-dial-color-change-phenomenon"></span>
Gold Oyster bracelets appear on the catalogued watches. An archived circa-1980 listing records a 9958 bracelet with 46 end links. Phillips records a circa-1981 example with clasp stamp 92908 and end links marked 46. Tom Mulraney describes hollow end links on this generation before the later solid-end-link Submariners. These lots document two fittings; identify each bracelet from its hardware and the watch’s records.
=== Nipple dial color change phenomenon ===


Forum collectors have documented an aging pattern particular to nipple dials. The raised gold bosses shift tone over time, warming or darkening against the applied markers around them, so the marker set ends up two-tone within itself. The change is oxidation, and a refinished dial cannot easily be made to fake it, which is why a well-aged example showing it reads as honest.
Inspect each bracelet for play and wear. A clasp code dates the clasp or bracelet, not the watch head. Boxes, guarantees and booklets in auction descriptions belong to those lots and should be checked against the watch’s own serial and provenance.


<span id="case-bezel-crystal-and-crown-notes"></span>
==Auction record==
== Case, bezel, crystal, and crown ==
[[File:Ref 16808 case-crown.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=Case flank with crown and guards|Case flank with the Triplock crown and crown guards]]


Body, bezel, crown, and crown tube are all 18k yellow gold, with crown guards in the standard Submariner shape. The Triplock crown seals the watch to 300m. The Field Manual is blunt about the trade-off: a gold case this size is heavy, and it scratches.
Each auction description dates and characterizes its own lot; together, the entries show examples across the run rather than a complete production ledger.


The crystal is sapphire with Cyclops over the date window. The bezel insert is aluminum in blue or black, set into the gold bezel surround. Aluminum inserts fade and scratch over time.
{| class="wikitable"
|-
! catalogue
! example
! recorded details
|-
| Christie’s, case 6,412,142
| circa 1979
| black nipple dial, 40mm case, gold Oyster bracelet; guarantee dated 10 August 1982
|-
| Christie’s, case 7,066,758
| circa 1981
| blue dial and bezel, calibre 3035 with 27 jewels, 40mm, gold Oyster bracelet
|-
| Phillips, case 6,667,544
| circa 1981
| calibre 3035/27 jewels, 40mm, bracelet clasp 92908, end links 46; inside caseback stamped 16800
|-
| Monaco Legend, case 7,538,212
| 1982
| blue nipple dial described as tropical brown, calibre 3035, 40mm, box and papers listed
|-
| Sotheby’s, case 9,623,728
| circa 1987
| tropical blue nipple dial described as turned brown, calibre 3035/27 jewels, 40mm
|-
| Antiquorum, case 6,516,672
| circa 1981
| colour-change dial, calibre 3035/27 jewels, 39mm; non-original box
|}


The rehaut is plain. Solid 18k gold Rolex cases carry the Helvetia bust with G, the Geneva assay mark, struck on the mid-case under the lugs. Rolex moved to the St. Bernard dog Barry mark for all precious metals after 1995, well past the end of 16808 production.
==Related references==


<span id="bracelets-end-links-clasps-and-packaging-notes"></span>
* [[Reference:1680|Submariner Date 1680/8]]
== Bracelets, end links, clasps, and packaging notes ==
* [[Reference:16800|Submariner Date 16800]]
* [[Reference:16803|Submariner Date 16803]]
* [[Reference:16618|Submariner Date 16618]]


The standard bracelet is the 93158, a full 18k yellow gold Oyster with Fliplock clasp. Forum collectors also cite 92908 for the reference. Nothing published settles whether 92908 is an alternate production bracelet, an earlier variant, or a misidentification, so both numbers stay in circulation.
See also [[Reference:submariner|Submariner family guide]], [[Reference:Movements|Movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|Bracelet and clasp guide]] and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|Serial numbers]].


End links are hollow. Gold is softer than steel, and a heavy gold case worn daily works the links loose, so almost every well-used 16808 shows visible play in the bracelet. Stretch is the first thing to check on a candidate. The weight difference against a steel 16800 registers the moment the watch goes on.
<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
File:Ref 16808 hero.webp|Submariner Date 16808, yellow gold
File:Ref 16808 dial-detail.webp|Blue nipple dial and applied markers
File:Ref 16808 case-crown.webp|Gold case and Triplock crown
File:Ref 16808 movement.webp|Calibre 3035
</gallery>


The 93158 stayed on the 16808 for the full run. No solid-end-link transition happened here; that came with the 16618 and the 93258.
== Sources ==
* [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rolex_Submariner Wikipedia: Rolex Submariner] — family chronology
* [https://www.rolex.com/watches/submariner Rolex Submariner technical material] — current terminology for the family


Clasp date codes for this era follow the standard Rolex scheme, running A for 1976 through M for 1988. The clasp code only dates the bracelet.
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/rolex-submariner-history-part-3-the-5-digit-references/ Tom Mulraney, "History of the Rolex Submariner – Part 3, The 5-Digit References", 2020-08-20]
 
<span id="historical-market-and-auction-record"></span>
== Historical market and auction record ==
 
The 16808 is scarce at auction, since low production over a short run means few examples circulate. When one does appear, the full gold construction puts it at the top of the 3035-era Submariner range, above the two-tone 16803 and the steel 16800.
 
No hammer figures are documented for the reference. Full gold Submariners of this era hold steady collector interest, though the 16808 falls into an awkward gap, too modern to draw the vintage premium the 1680/8 commands and too old to ride the 16618's long production story. A genuine gilt nipple dial in strong condition takes the top of whatever range the reference makes.
 
 
== Related references ==
 
* [[Reference:1680|Submariner 1680]] — First Date Sub, 'Red Sub' (1969–1979)
* [[Reference:3666|Submariner 3666]]
* [[Reference:5508|Submariner 5508]] — 1957–1961
* [[Reference:5510|Submariner 5510]] — Big Crown, Cal 1530 (1957–1958)
* [[Reference:5512|Submariner 5512]] — First Crown-Guard (1959–1978)
* [[Reference:5513|Submariner 5513]] — Non-Date Classic (1962–1989)
 
See also the [[Reference:submariner|Submariner family index]], [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|bracelet & clasp guide]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial numbers by year]].
 
== Sources ==
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/rolex-submariner-history-part-2-the-55xx-1680references/ History of the Rolex Submariner - Part 2, The 55XX References and 1680 Date] — Tom Mulraney, Monochrome
* [https://www.bobswatches.com/rolex-blog/rolex-info/rolex-two-tone-submariner.html Bob's Watches two-tone Submariner history] — Bob's Watches editorial staff, Bob's Watches
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/articles/how-to-start-collecting-the-rolex-submariner The Rolex Submariner: A Complete Collector's Guide] — Stephen Pulvirent, Sotheby's
* [https://www.grayandsons.com/blog/rolex-submariner-date-history/ Gray & Sons Submariner Date history] — Gray & Sons editorial, Gray & Sons
* [https://professionalwatches.com/rolex-submariner-reference-guide/ Rolex Submariner Reference Guide] — Professional Watches editorial, Professional Watches
* ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' — Colin A. White, Morning Tundra
* ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' — Colin A. White, Morning Tundra
* RolexForums 16808 thread bundle — RolexForums community, RolexForums
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6539583 "Submariner ref. 16808, case 6,412,142, circa 1979", Christie’s]
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/158613 "Submariner ref. 16808, case 6,667,544, circa 1981", Phillips]
* [https://www.christies.com/lot/lot-5644086 "Submariner ref. 16808, case 7,066,758, circa 1981", Christie’s]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2021/important-watches-6/nipple-dial-submariner-ref-16808-yellow-gold "Submariner ref. 16808, tropical nipple dial, circa 1987", Sotheby’s, 2021]
* [https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-33/lot-220 "Submariner ref. 16808, blue tropical nipple dial, case 7,538,212", Monaco Legend Auctions]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-16808-submariner-lot-386-590 "Submariner ref. 16808, colour-change dial, case 6,516,672", Antiquorum, 2026-05-10]
* [https://lunaroyster.com/product/sold-1980-rolex-submariner-16808-solid-18kt-gold-black-nipple-dial/ "Submariner ref. 16808, black nipple dial, circa 1980", Lunar Oyster]


[[Category:Submariner]]
[[Category:Submariner]]

Latest revision as of 16:34, 28 September 2026


Submariner → 16808

Yellow gold Rolex Submariner Date reference 16808
Rolex Submariner Date 16808.

The Submariner Date 16808 is the 18k yellow-gold member of the five-digit generation introduced alongside the steel 16800. Its 40mm case uses a sapphire crystal, a 300m depth rating and calibre 3035 with quick-set date. Christie’s and Tom Mulraney date the reference from about 1979 to 1987. The Field Manual gives 1977 in its text but 1979–1987 in its own reference table, so surviving dated examples support a circa-1979 start more clearly than a precise factory launch date.

Core facts

detail value
reference 16808
family Submariner Date
production circa 1979–1987 in Tom Mulraney and Christie’s; Field Manual text gives 1977 while its table gives 1979–1987
movement calibre 3035, quick-set date, 27 jewels, 28,800 vph
case 18k yellow gold, commonly catalogued at 40mm
crystal sapphire with Cyclops date magnifier
water resistance 300m / 1,000ft
bezel rotating gold bezel with blue or black aluminum insert
dial colors blue or black, commonly paired with a matching insert
markers and lume nipple-style gold markers on some dials; flatter luminous markers also documented; tritium on catalogued examples
bracelet 18k gold Oyster; 9958 bracelet and 92908 clasp stamp appear on documented examples
predecessor Submariner Date 1680/8
successor Submariner Date 16618, introduced around 1988

Place in the line

The 16808 replaced the gold 1680/8 and arrived with sapphire crystal and calibre 3035. It ran alongside the steel 16800; the two-tone Rolesor 16803 followed around 1984. The 16618 carried the full-gold Submariner Date into the 3135 generation around 1988.

The 16808 shares much of the 16800’s case and movement design. Tom Mulraney notes that the inside caseback is stamped 16800; Phillips records the same stamp on one 16808 lot. Treat that as a documented feature of the family, then assess the caseback and its fit on the individual watch.

Production outline

Tom Mulraney and Christie’s place the 16808 around 1979–1987. The Field Manual’s table gives the same span, while its running text says “Launched in 1977.” Auction records add dated examples: Christie’s catalogues case 6,412,142 as circa 1979 with a guarantee dated August 1982; Phillips dates case 6,667,544 to circa 1981; and Sotheby’s dates case 9,623,728 to circa 1987. Use these catalogue dates as anchors for the individual watches; they do not date every 16808 by serial.

The bezel insert came in blue or black aluminum, usually paired with a dial of the same color. Tom Mulraney dates the move to a ratcheting unidirectional bezel on the steel 16800 to around 1981. For the gold 16808, check the bezel on the individual watch; the 16800 evidence places the change around 1981.

Movement notes

Calibre 3035 is an automatic date movement with quick-set date, 27 jewels and a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour. The current Movement reference lists 48 hours of power reserve. The 16618 replaced it with calibre 3135.

Rolex calibre 3035 movement from a Submariner 16808
Calibre 3035, removed for service.

Dial map

Blue and black dials

The 16808 is documented with blue or black dials and matching blue or black bezel inserts. The markers are applied gold. Early examples use nipple-style markers, with a raised gold center around a luminous plot; flatter luminous markers also appear in the reference’s documented run. Tom Mulraney describes that marker change, while Sotheby’s catalogued a circa-1987 nipple-dial example. Published examples place both styles in the run; their serial order remains unestablished.

Auction catalogues identify tritium on these dials. The reviewed examples carry tritium markings. Check the lume on each dial, especially where service parts may have been fitted.

Color-change dials

Auction catalogues describe blue dials that aged to brown. Sotheby’s calls the circa-1987 case 9,623,728 a tropical blue dial and says it turned brown; Monaco Legend describes similar brown change on its 1982 example. Sellers sometimes call purple-looking examples violet or purple. Those color names describe appearance; the auction records trace the examples to blue dials that changed with age.

Blue Rolex Submariner 16808 nipple dial with raised gold hour markers
Blue nipple dial.

Case, bezel, crystal and crown

The 18k yellow-gold Oyster case measures about 40mm in most catalogues. Antiquorum recorded a circa-1981 example at 39mm, so catalogue measurements vary by a millimeter. The watch has crown guards, a screw-down Triplock crown, a sapphire crystal and a rotating bezel with an aluminum insert. The dial states 1,000ft=300m on documented examples.

The inside caseback stamp 16800 appears on a Phillips-catalogued 16808 and is also noted by Tom Mulraney. Some watch components may have been replaced during service; assess the case, caseback, movement and papers as separate evidence.

18k yellow gold Submariner 16808 case flank with Triplock crown and guards
Gold case, Triplock crown and guards.

Bracelet and clasp

Gold Oyster bracelets appear on the catalogued watches. An archived circa-1980 listing records a 9958 bracelet with 46 end links. Phillips records a circa-1981 example with clasp stamp 92908 and end links marked 46. Tom Mulraney describes hollow end links on this generation before the later solid-end-link Submariners. These lots document two fittings; identify each bracelet from its hardware and the watch’s records.

Inspect each bracelet for play and wear. A clasp code dates the clasp or bracelet, not the watch head. Boxes, guarantees and booklets in auction descriptions belong to those lots and should be checked against the watch’s own serial and provenance.

Auction record

Each auction description dates and characterizes its own lot; together, the entries show examples across the run rather than a complete production ledger.

catalogue example recorded details
Christie’s, case 6,412,142 circa 1979 black nipple dial, 40mm case, gold Oyster bracelet; guarantee dated 10 August 1982
Christie’s, case 7,066,758 circa 1981 blue dial and bezel, calibre 3035 with 27 jewels, 40mm, gold Oyster bracelet
Phillips, case 6,667,544 circa 1981 calibre 3035/27 jewels, 40mm, bracelet clasp 92908, end links 46; inside caseback stamped 16800
Monaco Legend, case 7,538,212 1982 blue nipple dial described as tropical brown, calibre 3035, 40mm, box and papers listed
Sotheby’s, case 9,623,728 circa 1987 tropical blue nipple dial described as turned brown, calibre 3035/27 jewels, 40mm
Antiquorum, case 6,516,672 circa 1981 colour-change dial, calibre 3035/27 jewels, 39mm; non-original box

Related references

See also Submariner family guide, Movement reference, Bracelet and clasp guide and Serial numbers.

Sources