Reference:Movements: Difference between revisions
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<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Prince (shaped)</div><div class="rp-chips">[[#cal-300|300]] [[#cal-300-ts|7½ T.S. 300]] [[#cal-310|310]] [[#cal-360-hw|360 HW]] [[#cal-350-ts|350 T.S.]]</div></div> | <div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Prince (shaped)</div><div class="rp-chips">[[#cal-300|300]] [[#cal-300-ts|7½ T.S. 300]] [[#cal-310|310]] [[#cal-360-hw|360 HW]] [[#cal-350-ts|350 T.S.]]</div></div> | ||
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Bubbleback / early automatic</div><div class="rp-chips">[[#cal-520|520]] [[#cal-620|620]] [[#cal-600|600]] [[#cal-a260|A260]] [[#cal-a296|A296]] [[#cal-645|645]] [[#cal-740|740]] [[#cal-745|745]]</div></div> | <div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Bubbleback / early automatic</div><div class="rp-chips">[[#cal-520|520]] [[#cal-620|620]] [[#cal-600|600]] [[#cal-59|59]] [[#cal-a260|A260]] [[#cal-a296|A296]] [[#cal-645|645]] [[#cal-740|740]] [[#cal-745|745]]</div></div> | ||
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Oyster / Oysterdate Precision</div><div class="rp-chips">[[#cal-1210|1210]] [[#cal-1215|1215]] [[#cal-1220|1220]] [[#cal-1225|1225]]</div></div> | <div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Oyster / Oysterdate Precision</div><div class="rp-chips">[[#cal-1210|1210]] [[#cal-1215|1215]] [[#cal-1220|1220]] [[#cal-1225|1225]]</div></div> | ||
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Vintage sport (1950s–80s)</div><div class="rp-chips">[[#cal-1030|1030]] [[#cal-1035|1035]] [[#cal-1530|1530]] [[#cal-1560|1560]] [[#cal-1570|1570]] [[#cal-1575|1575]]</div></div> | <div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Vintage sport (1950s–80s)</div><div class="rp-chips">[[#cal-1030|1030]] [[#cal-1035|1035]] [[#cal-1530|1530]] [[#cal-1560|1560]] [[#cal-1570|1570]] [[#cal-1575|1575]]</div></div> | ||
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Cal. 300 is the original Prince movement, made from 1928 to 1935 | Cal. 300 is the original Prince movement, made from 1928 to 1935. Christie's describes all three as the same movement base, with interchangeable parts and the balance bridge identifying the original execution. Prima movements have 15 jewels and six-position adjustment; Extra Prima and Ultra Prima versions have 18 jewels, six-position adjustment, and sometimes a Chronometer marking. David Boettcher identifies the additional jewels as two end-stones on the escape-wheel pivots and a top bearing on the centre wheel. Early movements carry the grade wording on the ratchet wheel, while later examples place it on the main train bridge. The photographed Extra Prima, marked "Observatory 6 Positions," shows the later convention. | ||
Balance metallurgy changed gradually. Examples from 1928 use a bimetallic balance with a plain Breguet spring; by the mid-to-late 1930s, documented movements have both monometallic and bimetallic balances paired with Elinvar-alloy hairsprings. No exact transition year is established. "Patented Superbalance" on later ratchet wheels and bridges refers to Aegler's Swiss patent CH196706, filed in August 1936 and granted in March 1938. A movement carrying the mark postdates the grant. The recessed timing screws are often said to reduce air resistance, but Boettcher reads the patent as a way to maximize the balance's radius of gyration within the available space. | Balance metallurgy changed gradually. Examples from 1928 use a bimetallic balance with a plain Breguet spring; by the mid-to-late 1930s, documented movements have both monometallic and bimetallic balances paired with Elinvar-alloy hairsprings. No exact transition year is established. "Patented Superbalance" on later ratchet wheels and bridges refers to Aegler's Swiss patent CH196706, filed in August 1936 and granted in March 1938. A movement carrying the mark postdates the grant. The recessed timing screws are often said to reduce air resistance, but Boettcher reads the patent as a way to maximize the balance's radius of gyration within the available space. | ||
Cal. 300 | The Cal. 300 examples described here have no identified shock-protection system. Incabloc dates the start of its production to 1933 and the later lyre-spring design to 1938. Those dates alone cannot establish the fittings in a particular Prince. | ||
Several UK auction catalogues treat the three- and four-digit numbers found on movements in refs 1862, 1490, and 1855 as calibers. The documented numbers are 510, 579, 841, 1004, 1130, and 1439, with weaker evidence for 701 and a single record of 1759. They are almost certainly movement serials read from the plate. Continental catalogues identify the same movement class by grade and the T.S. size code instead. Cal. 414 and Cal. 527 have no documented connection to the Rolex Prince. The number 971A is a case reference, not a caliber; Antiquorum catalogued a 971A in 1989 with the same T.S./300-family movement. | Several UK auction catalogues treat the three- and four-digit numbers found on movements in refs 1862, 1490, and 1855 as calibers. The documented numbers are 510, 579, 841, 1004, 1130, and 1439, with weaker evidence for 701 and a single record of 1759. They are almost certainly movement serials read from the plate. Continental catalogues identify the same movement class by grade and the T.S. size code instead. Cal. 414 and Cal. 527 have no documented connection to the Rolex Prince. The number 971A is a case reference, not a caliber; Antiquorum catalogued a 971A in 1989 with the same T.S./300-family movement. | ||
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The architecture of Cal. 360 is disputed. Christie's describes a 1938 ref. 2835 "Prince Elegant" with a tonneau-shaped 15-jewel movement, and Charles Jarman's ''The Rolex Reference Guide'' (4th edition) calls Cal. 360 a manual, small-seconds, tonneau-shaped movement with a SuperBalance. | The architecture of Cal. 360 is disputed. Christie's describes a 1938 ref. 2835 "Prince Elegant" with a tonneau-shaped 15-jewel movement, and Charles Jarman's ''The Rolex Reference Guide'' (4th edition) calls Cal. 360 a manual, small-seconds, tonneau-shaped movement with a SuperBalance. Watch Doctor’s online chart instead lists a rectangular, 18-jewel movement measuring 18 × 27mm. The page does not identify an underlying Rolex document. | ||
Jarman dates Cal. 360 to 1937. The expansion of the HW designation remains unconfirmed; it should be retained as a designation rather than expanded to Hans Wilsdorf. The differing shape and jewel descriptions need comparison with the movement in the individual watch. | |||
<span id="cal-510"></span> | <span id="cal-510"></span> | ||
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Cal. 350 is the jump-hour member of the T.S. family, alongside the small-seconds Cal. 300 and centre-seconds Cal. 310. Christie's and Sotheby's catalogue it in the [[Reference:1491|1491 Brancard Jumping Hour]] as an 18-jewel, chronometer-rated movement on the T.S. base. Another 1491 has a 15-jewel Extra Prima movement; Ultra Prima examples have 18 jewels. Jewel count varies with grade. The jump-hour disc works on much the same principle as the later Datejust date disc. Surviving examples carry Glasgow import hallmarks from 1930–31, consistent with the T.S. base's 1928–35 production window. | Cal. 350 is the jump-hour member of the T.S. family, alongside the small-seconds Cal. 300 and centre-seconds Cal. 310. Christie's and Sotheby's catalogue it in the [[Reference:1491|1491 Brancard Jumping Hour]] as an 18-jewel, chronometer-rated movement on the T.S. base. Another 1491 has a 15-jewel Extra Prima movement; Ultra Prima examples have 18 jewels. Jewel count varies with grade. The jump-hour disc works on much the same principle as the later Datejust date disc. Surviving examples carry Glasgow import hallmarks from 1930–31, consistent with the T.S. base's 1928–35 production window. | ||
The 1491 case | The 1491 has a deeper case than the 1490 to accommodate its jump-hour mechanism. Case depth is one comparison point; the movement, module and case markings must agree as well. | ||
<span id="bubbleback-family"></span> | <span id="bubbleback-family"></span> | ||
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This Aegler-supplied 10½-ligne hand-wound family uses the 700/710 architecture. It has a straight-line lever escapement, monometallic Superbalance adjusted to six positions, self-compensating Breguet balance spring, and swan-neck micrometer regulator, with no documented shock protection. The movement powers the original Air-King 4925 and its Air-Lion, Air-Tiger, and Air-Giant siblings, including the sub-seconds 4365, mid-size 4444, and 4647 Hunter Precision. Its architecture links the pre-war Prince and Bubbleback movements with the post-war automatic Cal. 1030. | This Aegler-supplied 10½-ligne hand-wound family uses the 700/710 architecture. It has a straight-line lever escapement, monometallic Superbalance adjusted to six positions, self-compensating Breguet balance spring, and swan-neck micrometer regulator, with no documented shock protection. The movement powers the original Air-King 4925 and its Air-Lion, Air-Tiger, and Air-Giant siblings, including the sub-seconds 4365, mid-size 4444, and 4647 Hunter Precision. Its architecture links the pre-war Prince and Bubbleback movements with the post-war automatic Cal. 1030. Cal. 700 and 710 are hand-wound movements; Cal. 720 belongs to the automatic branch. | ||
Auction catalogues describe compatible 10- to 10½-ligne manual movements in [[Reference:2765|2765]] and [[Reference:3009|3009]], but none of the surfaced records shows a Cal. 700 stamp. | Auction catalogues describe compatible 10- to 10½-ligne manual movements in [[Reference:2765|2765]], [[Reference:2595|2595]] and [[Reference:3009|3009]], but none of the surfaced records shows a Cal. 700 stamp. All three reference pages therefore treat the assignment as plausible rather than confirmed. The four documented [[Reference:1873|1873]] watches are also manual, but their catalogues name no caliber. | ||
[[Reference:6244|6244]] is the one reference in this group with a confirmed caliber stamp: Bonhams, Antiquorum, Christie's and Phillips all independently name Cal. 710 across watches spanning both of the reference's numeric case-serial bands. One Christie's catalogue instead describes the movement only by size, "Calibre 10¾," without giving the caliber number. | |||
<span id="cal-600"></span> | <span id="cal-600"></span> | ||
| Line 404: | Line 406: | ||
|- | |- | ||
| size | | size | ||
| 9¾ lignes | | 9¾ lignes (Sotheby’s description) | ||
|- | |- | ||
| escapement | | escapement | ||
| Not | | Not specified in the cited lot | ||
|- | |- | ||
| balance | | balance | ||
| Line 413: | Line 415: | ||
|- | |- | ||
| regulator | | regulator | ||
| Not | | Not specified in the cited lot | ||
|- | |- | ||
| shock | | shock | ||
| Line 421: | Line 423: | ||
Cal. 600 sits one size class below the 10½-ligne 700/710/720 family and carries a patented Super Balance. Sotheby's catalogued the movement in the Mercedes Gleitze Oyster in November 2025 as a rhodium-finished Hunter-architecture base upgraded to Cal. 600. The late-1926 27mm case belongs to the watch Gleitze wore during her 21 October 1927 Channel swim attempt and is engraved "Miss M. Gleitze / The Companion 'Oyster.' Vindication Channel Swim. October 21st. 1927." | Cal. 600 sits one size class below the 10½-ligne 700/710/720 family and carries a patented Super Balance. Sotheby's catalogued the movement in the Mercedes Gleitze Oyster in November 2025 as a rhodium-finished Hunter-architecture base upgraded to Cal. 600. The late-1926 27mm case belongs to the watch Gleitze wore during her 21 October 1927 Channel swim attempt and is engraved "Miss M. Gleitze / The Companion 'Oyster.' Vindication Channel Swim. October 21st. 1927." | ||
Sotheby’s describes the Gleitze watch’s movement as a 9¾-ligne Hunter upgraded to Cal. 600, with 17 jewels and a patented Super Balance. The description records an upgrade; it does not date when that work was done. | |||
The case carries Glasgow import marks for 1926/1927. A mid-1970s Rolex service box accompanies the watch, but Sotheby’s presents its association with a particular service as an assumption. Neither the box nor the case hallmark dates the movement upgrade. | |||
The cited Sotheby’s description does not specify the escapement, regulator or shock protection. Those details need examination of the movement. | |||
<span id="cal-59"></span> | |||
=== Cal. 59 === | |||
{| class="wikitable" style="width:280px; font-size:90%;" | |||
! detail | |||
! value | |||
|- | |||
| type | |||
| Manual | |||
|- | |||
| jewels | |||
| 15 or 17 | |||
|- | |||
| frequency | |||
| Not recorded | |||
|- | |||
| size | |||
| 10½ lignes (Fontainemelon FHF 30 ébauche) | |||
|- | |||
| escapement | |||
| Straight-line lever | |||
|- | |||
| balance | |||
| Monometallic | |||
|- | |||
| regulator | |||
| Not specified in the cited lots | |||
|- | |||
| shock | |||
| None documented | |||
|} | |||
Unlike the Aegler-built 10½-ligne Hunter family above, Cal. 59 is a bought-in movement: David Boettcher's research on Oyster Watch Co. identifies it as a rebadged Fontainemelon FHF 30 ébauche, the same base Rolex carried over to Tudor as its own Cal. 59 after Tudor's 1946 incorporation. Four auction-catalogued [[Reference:3478|3478]] watches, three from Bonhams and one from Antiquorum, name Cal. 59 directly, independent of each other and twelve years apart — a stronger footing than the Cal. 700/710 attribution gets on several manual-wind siblings, where it remains a plausible family match rather than a photographed or catalogued stamp. | |||
Jewel count splits 15 and 17 across the four directly-named 3478 watches and does not track cleanly with any other documented variable. [[Reference:2784|2784]] carries the same family attribution, but only at the family level: no auction catalogue names Cal. 59 outright for that reference, and the one movement image tied to a visibly stamped 2784 case has a Tudor-signed bridge that may be a later replacement. | |||
<span id="cal-a260"></span> | <span id="cal-a260"></span> | ||
| Line 496: | Line 533: | ||
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Made from 1952 to 1955, A296 powered the Big Crown 6200, early Explorers 6098, 6150 "Precision," 6298, and 6350, and early Datejusts 6104 and 6105. Its full rotor winds in one direction; it is not a bumper caliber. The 6150 and 6350 use | Made from 1952 to 1955, A296 powered the Big Crown 6200, early Explorers 6098, 6150 "Precision," 6298, and 6350, and early Datejusts 6104 and 6105. Its full rotor winds in one direction; it is not a bumper caliber. The 6150 and 6350 use related movements in non-chronometer and chronometer-rated watches. COSC itself was founded later, in 1973. "A.296" is Rolex's size-family code and 775 its commercial number, so listings may use either designation for the same movement. Cal. 1030 replaced it in 1955 with bidirectional winding, a butterfly rotor, and a thinner automatic module. Phillips identifies that reduced thickness as the change that eliminated the domed Bubbleback caseback. | ||
The movement has a straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance, self-compensating Breguet balance spring, and index regulator. Catalogues using the commercial number 775 also specify six-position adjustment and a shock absorber | The movement has a straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance, self-compensating Breguet balance spring, and index regulator. Catalogues using the commercial number 775 also specify six-position adjustment and a shock absorber. A.296 is a broader designation than a unique caliber stamp; catalogue usage needs checking against the individual movement. | ||
Christie's describes a 6150 balance as a "patented Super-balance," linking it to Aegler patent CH196706 and the recessed timing screws used on [[#cal-300|Cal. 300]]. Published jewel counts vary because some catalogues separate the going train from the automatic module. Figures of 18 and 19 appear for the base movement, with another two or seven assigned to the rotor module. One 6150 is described as a 19-jewel movement with a two-jewel automatic module. | Christie's describes a 6150 balance as a "patented Super-balance," linking it to Aegler patent CH196706 and the recessed timing screws used on [[#cal-300|Cal. 300]]. Published jewel counts vary because some catalogues separate the going train from the automatic module. Figures of 18 and 19 appear for the base movement, with another two or seven assigned to the rotor module. One 6150 is described as a 19-jewel movement with a two-jewel automatic module. A bare jewel total in a reference table does not reveal which components were counted. | ||
<span id="cal-645"></span> | <span id="cal-645"></span> | ||
| Line 541: | Line 578: | ||
The movement uses a straight-line lever escapement, Superbalance adjusted to six positions, shock absorber, self-compensating Breguet balance spring, and index regulator. Some catalogues use "monometallic balance timed to 6 positions" instead of Superbalance. Both terms describe a monometallic balance with recessed timing screws. | The movement uses a straight-line lever escapement, Superbalance adjusted to six positions, shock absorber, self-compensating Breguet balance spring, and index regulator. Some catalogues use "monometallic balance timed to 6 positions" instead of Superbalance. Both terms describe a monometallic balance with recessed timing screws. | ||
Watch Doctor’s chart groups Cal. 635 and 645 under A.260 and assigns both to 1950. That online entry is not an identified factory production record. | |||
Antiquorum catalogued a subsidiary-seconds [[Reference:3599|ref. 3599]] as Cal. 635 with 19 jewels and described the caliber as 9¾ ligne, made from 1940 to 1951. | Antiquorum catalogued a subsidiary-seconds [[Reference:3599|ref. 3599]] as Cal. 635 with 19 jewels and described the caliber as 9¾ ligne, made from 1940 to 1951. The catalogue’s 1940–1951 span differs from Watch Doctor’s 1950 entry. Christie's also catalogued a visibly centre-seconds 3599 as Cal. 635, which conflicts with the caliber's small-seconds architecture. Without movement photographs, the Christie's caliber entry is best treated as a catalogue error rather than evidence for a centre-seconds Cal. 635. | ||
Jewel counts also vary according to whether a catalogue includes the automatic module. Bonhams describes the related [[#cal-745|Cal. 745]] as "18 jewels plus 7 rotor jewels." Its 20-jewel description of a Cal. 645 in a 6085 | Jewel counts also vary according to whether a catalogue includes the automatic module. Bonhams describes the related [[#cal-745|Cal. 745]] as "18 jewels plus 7 rotor jewels." Its 20-jewel description of a Cal. 645 in a 6085 should remain attached to that example; it does not establish a universal jewel count. | ||
<span id="cal-740"></span> | <span id="cal-740"></span> | ||
| Line 725: | Line 762: | ||
The hairspring is disputed. The parts plates imply the 1210's Breguet overcoil because the 1215 sheet specifies no separate balance. Antiquorum describes one ref. 9996 with a flat hairspring and index regulator, but uses Breguet wording elsewhere. No catalogue describes the caliber as free-sprung. | The hairspring is disputed. The parts plates imply the 1210's Breguet overcoil because the 1215 sheet specifies no separate balance. Antiquorum describes one ref. 9996 with a flat hairspring and index regulator, but uses Breguet wording elsewhere. No catalogue describes the caliber as free-sprung. | ||
Cal. 1215 uses a gradual date change rather than a direct quickset. The date begins moving before midnight and seats as the mechanism completes its cycle. | |||
Christie's places the ref. 6494 changeover between a circa-1956 example with Cal. 1210 and a circa-1958 example with 1215. Other documented fitments include the Speedking 6430, early 6694 production, and refs. 9996/9919. Refs. 6094 and 6294 used Cal. 740 and 790 respectively, rather than 1215. | Christie's places the ref. 6494 changeover between a circa-1956 example with Cal. 1210 and a circa-1958 example with 1215. Other documented fitments include the Speedking 6430, early 6694 production, and refs. 9996/9919. Refs. 6094 and 6294 used Cal. 740 and 790 respectively, rather than 1215. | ||
| Line 837: | Line 874: | ||
The caliber does not hack. The 1210 parts plate contains no stop lever or hack spring, and Rolex's 1978 service book covers hacking only for the late 1500 series and the 2030/2035. | The caliber does not hack. The 1210 parts plate contains no stop lever or hack spring, and Rolex's 1978 service book covers hacking only for the late 1500 series and the 2030/2035. | ||
For an Oysterdate Precision with Cal. 1225, service requirements depend on the condition of the individual watch. Rolex’s published procedure begins with a watchmaker’s examination and an estimate. It does not promise routine acceptance of every vintage caliber or a particular rate and power reserve after service. | |||
Documented fitments include refs. 6426, 6466 and, most often, 6694 from the late 1960s through at least 1979. Comparison of a 1966 ref. 6694 with Cal. 1215 and a 1973 example with 1225 places the changeover around 1967. | Documented fitments include refs. 6426, 6466 and, most often, 6694 from the late 1960s through at least 1979. Comparison of a 1966 ref. 6694 with Cal. 1215 and a 1973 example with 1225 places the changeover around 1967. | ||
| Line 921: | Line 958: | ||
|} | |} | ||
Cal. 1030 is a bidirectionally wound automatic used in 1950s Oyster references. Its 5.85mm profile ended the domed Bubbleback caseback, while the cutaway "butterfly" rotor stamped ROLEX PERPETUAL PATENTED is its clearest visual identifier. Finishing includes perlage on the rhodium-plated main plate, brushed bridges, polished screw heads and red anodized-aluminium reversing wheels. A conventional index regulates the movement; the visible regulator arm distinguishes it from the later free-sprung 1560 and 1570. Documented fitments include ref. 6098 from 1952, Submariners 6536, 6536-1 and 6538, Explorer 6610 and Air-King 6552. The same movement appeared in chronometer and non-chronometer watches. | |||
<span id="cal-1035"></span> | <span id="cal-1035"></span> | ||
| Line 999: | Line 1,036: | ||
|} | |} | ||
Cal. 1530 ran from 1957 to 1965. Its 17-, 25- and 26-jewel versions are concurrent market variants, not a chronological progression. Seventeen-jewel movements appear in a 1958-era ref. 5508, a 5500 and a 1011 Eaton, and | Cal. 1530 ran from 1957 to 1965. Its 17-, 25- and 26-jewel versions are concurrent market variants, not a chronological progression. Seventeen-jewel movements appear in a 1958-era ref. 5508, a 5500 and a 1011 Eaton, and Rolex’s Technical and Service Information, third edition, discusses the 1520 and 1530 families in its servicing instructions. | ||
Cal. 1530 is the base for the 1520, 1560, 1570 and 1580. They share plates and many service parts, including interchangeable automatic-device bridges, so the engraved bridge number may not identify the movement beneath it. Balance-bridge and regulator form are more reliable. | Cal. 1530 is the base for the 1520, 1560, 1570 and 1580. They share plates and many service parts, including interchangeable automatic-device bridges, so the engraved bridge number may not identify the movement beneath it. Balance-bridge and regulator form are more reliable. | ||
| Line 1,055: | Line 1,092: | ||
Certified calibers use free-sprung Microstella regulation; Cal. 1520 uses an index and inertia blocks. | Certified calibers use free-sprung Microstella regulation; Cal. 1520 uses an index and inertia blocks. | ||
Rolex’s Technical and Service Information, third edition, describes Cal. 1520’s regulator and inertia blocks. Two Bonhams descriptions call the 1520's balance "free-sprung Gyromax," an error that applies Patek Philippe's trademark to an index-regulated Rolex movement. | |||
Auction descriptions consistently give a flat hairspring, apart from one 2013 Antiquorum outlier that says Breguet. Shock protection is KIF in Flector or Elastor form, identified by balance-bridge and regulator shape. That shape is more reliable than the engraved caliber number because bridges interchange across the series. | Auction descriptions consistently give a flat hairspring, apart from one 2013 Antiquorum outlier that says Breguet. Shock protection is KIF in Flector or Elastor form, identified by balance-bridge and regulator shape. That shape is more reliable than the engraved caliber number because bridges interchange across the series. | ||
The 17-, 25- and 26-jewel counts are concurrent market variants. The 17-jewel version uses a different main plate and bridges, altered escape-wheel pivot geometry, and bushings in place of jewels in the automatic module. | The 17-, 25- and 26-jewel counts are concurrent market variants. The 17-jewel version uses a different main plate and bridges, altered escape-wheel pivot geometry, and bushings in place of jewels in the automatic module. Jewel count alone does not establish the rate or condition of an individual movement. Dated examples place 17- and 26-jewel movements together from the mid-1960s, with 25-jewel examples running alongside them. | ||
American tariffs rose sharply above 17 jewels, but Rolex did not document this as the reason for the low-jewel version. Seventeen-jewel movements also reached Europe and Asia, so general cost reduction remains another possibility. The American presentation ref. 7002 has a rotor marked "SEVENTEEN JEWELS" and "UN" for unadjusted, both relevant to the tariff schedule, but this does not settle the question. | American tariffs rose sharply above 17 jewels, but Rolex did not document this as the reason for the low-jewel version. Seventeen-jewel movements also reached Europe and Asia, so general cost reduction remains another possibility. The American presentation ref. 7002 has a rotor marked "SEVENTEEN JEWELS" and "UN" for unadjusted, both relevant to the tariff schedule, but this does not settle the question. | ||
| Line 1,102: | Line 1,139: | ||
|} | |} | ||
Cal. 1535 is the non-chronometer date version of the 1530, introduced in 1957 for the Air-King-Date 5700/5701 | Cal. 1535 is the non-chronometer date version of the 1530, introduced in 1957 for the Air-King-Date 5700/5701. Monochrome likewise assigns both calibers to the 5700, with 1535 first. | ||
Auction houses usually catalogue refs. 5700 and 5701 under the base caliber. Antiquorum assigns a 1963 ref. 5700 to Cal. 1530 and a 1972 example to 1520, though neither base movement has a date. Those entries agree with Rolex's grouping of 1535 components under Cal. 1530 and 1525 components under Cal. 1520, but they do not identify the fitted caliber. | Auction houses usually catalogue refs. 5700 and 5701 under the base caliber. Antiquorum assigns a 1963 ref. 5700 to Cal. 1530 and a 1972 example to 1520, though neither base movement has a date. Those entries agree with Rolex's grouping of 1535 components under Cal. 1530 and 1525 components under Cal. 1520, but they do not identify the fitted caliber. | ||
| Line 1,578: | Line 1,615: | ||
The movement has a straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to temperature and five positions, shock protection, a free-sprung Breguet-form hairspring, Microstella regulation, and hacking. One Antiquorum description calls the hairspring blued steel, but Cal. 3186 uses Parachrom, a niobium-zirconium alloy coloured by an oxide layer rather than tempering. | The movement has a straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to temperature and five positions, shock protection, a free-sprung Breguet-form hairspring, Microstella regulation, and hacking. One Antiquorum description calls the hairspring blued steel, but Cal. 3186 uses Parachrom, a niobium-zirconium alloy coloured by an oxide layer rather than tempering. | ||
Cal. 3186 retains the Cal. 3135 architecture used by the 3185: 28.5mm diameter, 6.45mm height, 28,800 vph, and 31 jewels. It also keeps the plain-bearing oscillating-weight axle, part 568, shared with Cal. 3130, 3135, 3155, and 3175. | Cal. 3186 retains the Cal. 3135 architecture used by the 3185: 28.5mm diameter, 6.45mm height, 28,800 vph, and 31 jewels. It also keeps the plain-bearing oscillating-weight axle, part 568, shared with Cal. 3130, 3135, 3155, and 3175. Axle condition must be assessed during service. | ||
Rolex introduced Cal. 3186 as a running change, leaving its start date unsettled. Steel 16710 examples begin among late Z- and M-series cases; the lowest documented example is Z 5786xx, but higher Z-series watches can still contain Cal. 3185. Gold references changed earlier. A D-series 116718 catalogued with Cal. 3186 was sold in August 2006, placing the movement in production before the commonly cited 2007 steel transition. | Rolex introduced Cal. 3186 as a running change, leaving its start date unsettled. Steel 16710 examples begin among late Z- and M-series cases; the lowest documented example is Z 5786xx, but higher Z-series watches can still contain Cal. 3185. Gold references changed earlier. A D-series 116718 catalogued with Cal. 3186 was sold in August 2006, placing the movement in production before the commonly cited 2007 steel transition. | ||
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Both Cal. 3185 and 3186 index the local-hour hand with a jumping-hour click. Cal. 3186 reworked the parts and reduced slack between the drive-train wheels. On Cal. 3185, the 24-hour hand twitches when the local hour jumps; on Cal. 3186, it remains still. Treat this as a screening clue and confirm the caliber by inspecting the movement. | Both Cal. 3185 and 3186 index the local-hour hand with a jumping-hour click. Cal. 3186 reworked the parts and reduced slack between the drive-train wheels. On Cal. 3185, the 24-hour hand twitches when the local hour jumps; on Cal. 3186, it remains still. Treat this as a screening clue and confirm the caliber by inspecting the movement. | ||
Failure of the local-hour hand to index in one-hour steps calls for examination of the setting mechanism. The symptom alone does not identify which part needs replacement. | |||
The date is corrected by moving the local-hour hand through midnight; there is no separate direct quickset for the date disc. | The date is corrected by moving the local-hour hand through midnight; there is no separate direct quickset for the date disc. | ||
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Two documented unit commissions use Cal. 3187. A 2012 white-dial 216570 made for members of the British Special Air Service carries "Who Dares Wins," the winged-dagger badge, and its owner's identifiers. A circa-2015 example numbered 40/48 was made for the UK Attack Helicopter Force. These were unit commissions rather than ministry-issued watches and should not be classified with the 5513 MilSub. | Two documented unit commissions use Cal. 3187. A 2012 white-dial 216570 made for members of the British Special Air Service carries "Who Dares Wins," the winged-dagger badge, and its owner's identifiers. A circa-2015 example numbered 40/48 was made for the UK Attack Helicopter Force. These were unit commissions rather than ministry-issued watches and should not be classified with the 5513 MilSub. | ||
The local-hour hand should index in one-hour steps during setting. Irregular movement requires inspection of the mechanism. | |||
The −2/+2 rating applies only after Rolex redefined Superlative Chronometer in 2015. Earlier watches carried the COSC −4/+6 seconds-per-day standard for the uncased movement; later examples were tested again by Rolex as complete watches. The underlying caliber did not change beyond regulation. | The −2/+2 rating applies only after Rolex redefined Superlative Chronometer in 2015. Earlier watches carried the COSC −4/+6 seconds-per-day standard for the uncased movement; later examples were tested again by Rolex as complete watches. The underlying caliber did not change beyond regulation. | ||
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Cal. 3000 is the no-date member of the 3000 family, used from about 1990 to 2001 in the Air-King 14000 and 14010, Submariner 14060, and Explorer 14270. The often-quoted 1988 start belongs to Cal. 3135. The Air-King changed to reference 14000M in 2000, while the Explorer became the 114270 and the Submariner adopted Cal. 3130 in 2001. Published power-reserve figures conflict at 42 and 48 hours; no Rolex figure settles the difference. | Cal. 3000 is the no-date member of the 3000 family, used from about 1990 to 2001 in the Air-King 14000 and 14010, Submariner 14060, and Explorer 14270. The often-quoted 1988 start belongs to Cal. 3135. The Air-King changed to reference 14000M in 2000, while the Explorer became the 114270 and the Submariner adopted Cal. 3130 in 2001. Published power-reserve figures conflict at 42 and 48 hours; no Rolex figure settles the difference. | ||
Cal. 3000 | Cal. 3000 uses a flat hairspring, a useful distinction from the Breguet overcoil in Cal. 3130. Microstella adjustment sets the rate without an index, the hairspring is glued to the balance stud, and shock protection is KIF. COSC certification used the standard −4/+6 seconds-per-day tolerance. | ||
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The 14060M initially used Cal. 3130 without COSC certification and carried a two-line dial. Certification arrived in late 2007, adding the two-line "Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified" inscription. The movement itself did not change. | The 14060M initially used Cal. 3130 without COSC certification and carried a two-line dial. Certification arrived in late 2007, adding the two-line "Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified" inscription. The movement itself did not change. | ||
The | The oscillating-weight axle uses a plain bearing. A service assessment should check the rotor and its bearing for wear and contact with surrounding parts. | ||
Cal. 3131, announced in 2007, adapts the 3130 for magnetic resistance with a blue Parachrom hairspring, a paramagnetic nickel-phosphorus escapement, and a two-part soft-iron shield around the movement. It powered the Milgauss 116400 and 116400GV, then the Air-King 116900. | Cal. 3131, announced in 2007, adapts the 3130 for magnetic resistance with a blue Parachrom hairspring, a paramagnetic nickel-phosphorus escapement, and a two-part soft-iron shield around the movement. It powered the Milgauss 116400 and 116400GV, then the Air-King 116900. | ||
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Cal. 3132 brought Parachrom and Paraflex to the time-only professional line. Parachrom had appeared in Cal. 4130 in 2000, but the Submariner did not receive both features until Cal. 3230 in 2020. | Cal. 3132 brought Parachrom and Paraflex to the time-only professional line. Parachrom had appeared in Cal. 4130 in 2000, but the Submariner did not receive both features until Cal. 3230 in 2020. | ||
Both dial generations of the 214270 use Cal. 3132. The 2016 revision lengthened the hands and added luminous filling to the 3, 6, and 9 numerals, without changing the movement. Cal. 3132 also retains the | Both dial generations of the 214270 use Cal. 3132. The 2016 revision lengthened the hands and added luminous filling to the 3, 6, and 9 numerals, without changing the movement. Cal. 3132 also retains the 3130’s plain-bearing oscillating-weight axle. | ||
Rolex redefined Superlative Chronometer in 2015, changing the guaranteed rate from COSC's −4/+6 seconds per day on the uncased movement to −2/+2 on the cased watch after additional in-house testing. The movement did not change, so early and late 214270 examples carry different rate guarantees. | Rolex redefined Superlative Chronometer in 2015, changing the guaranteed rate from COSC's −4/+6 seconds per day on the uncased movement to −2/+2 on the cased watch after additional in-house testing. The movement did not change, so early and late 214270 examples carry different rate guarantees. | ||
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Parachrom arrived during the Cal. 3135 run, but the transition date is unsettled. The niobium-zirconium alloy receives a uniform anodised oxide layer about 50 nanometres thick, which gives the hairspring its blue colour and stabilizes its restoring torque. Published dates for its adoption in Cal. 3135 range from about 2005 to 2009, with transitional examples reported on both sides. The ceramic-bezel 116610 uses it consistently from 2010. The spring's colour provides only a rough dating marker. | Parachrom arrived during the Cal. 3135 run, but the transition date is unsettled. The niobium-zirconium alloy receives a uniform anodised oxide layer about 50 nanometres thick, which gives the hairspring its blue colour and stabilizes its restoring torque. Published dates for its adoption in Cal. 3135 range from about 2005 to 2009, with transitional examples reported on both sides. The ceramic-bezel 116610 uses it consistently from 2010. The spring's colour provides only a rough dating marker. | ||
The reversing wheels transmit winding power when the rotor turns in either direction. Rolex dates their patent to 1952 and the introduction of their red surface treatment to 1957. Their colour identifies the component type, not Cal. 3135 by itself. | |||
Earlier movements carried COSC's −4/+6 seconds-per-day standard. From 2015, Rolex applied its −2/+2 Superlative Chronometer test to the complete watch without changing the caliber. Derivatives include Cal. 3155, 3175, 3185, 3186, 3187, and the no-date 3130, 3131, and 3132. | Earlier movements carried COSC's −4/+6 seconds-per-day standard. From 2015, Rolex applied its −2/+2 Superlative Chronometer test to the complete watch without changing the caliber. Derivatives include Cal. 3155, 3175, 3185, 3186, 3187, and the no-date 3130, 3131, and 3132. | ||
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The case provides the magnetic shielding. A gilt-metal anti-magnetic cap and the surrounding inner case absorb the field. Cal. 1580 uses the standard 1530-family balance and hairspring inside the shielded case. Rolex added hacking in 1972 with the corresponding sport-caliber revision. | The case provides the magnetic shielding. A gilt-metal anti-magnetic cap and the surrounding inner case absorb the field. Cal. 1580 uses the standard 1530-family balance and hairspring inside the shielded case. Rolex added hacking in 1972 with the corresponding sport-caliber revision. | ||
Watch Doctor’s chart assigns Cal. 1580 to 1963, later than the usual dating of the first 1019s to around 1960. That discrepancy does not establish that early 1019s contained a different caliber. A proposed alternative needs a documented watch or a Rolex record. | |||
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Cal. 5055 adds the day mechanism and its stricter tolerances. Rolex specified hour-wheel endshake below 0.03mm and calendar change within two minutes of midnight. The day disc is a separate replaceable part, allowing the display language to be changed without altering the movement. | Cal. 5055 adds the day mechanism and its stricter tolerances. Rolex specified hour-wheel endshake below 0.03mm and calendar change within two minutes of midnight. The day disc is a separate replaceable part, allowing the display language to be changed without altering the movement. | ||
Cal. 5055 powers the yellow-gold ref. 19018, white-gold ref. 19019 and pyramid-bezel ref. 19028. Planned successors, Cals. 5235/5255 with a conventional stepper motor and 5335/5355 with a perpetual calendar, were cancelled before production. | Cal. 5055 powers the yellow-gold [[Reference:19018|ref. 19018]], white-gold [[Reference:19019|ref. 19019]] and pyramid-bezel [[Reference:19028|ref. 19028]]. Planned successors, Cals. 5235/5255 with a conventional stepper motor and 5335/5355 with a perpetual calendar, were cancelled before production. | ||
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== Sources == | == Sources == | ||
* [https://watchdoctor.biz/movements-and-calibers/ Watch Doctor: movements and calibers chart. Secondary compilation; no underlying Rolex document identified.] | |||
* [https://www.incabloc.ch/en/history/ Incabloc: company history, production in 1933 and lyre-spring development in 1938.] | |||
* [https://www.vrfm.io/Scans/TECHNICAL-SERVICE-INFO-3RD-EDITION-1978.pdf Rolex: Technical and Service Information, third edition, pp. 3 and 7; scan hosted by the Vintage Rolex Field Manual.] | |||
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2025/important-watches-part-i-ge2504/the-companion-oyster-mercedes-gleitze-rolex-oyster Sotheby’s Geneva 2025, lot 134: Gleitze Oyster and its upgraded movement.] | |||
* [https://www.cosc.swiss/terms-conditions COSC: organization established in 1973.] | |||
* [https://www.rolex.com/en-us/watch-care-and-service/the-rolex-servicing-procedure Rolex: examination and estimate before servicing.] | |||
* [https://www.rolex.com/watchmaking/features/movements/perpetual-rotor Rolex: Perpetual rotor], mechanism introduced in 1931; caliber not specified. | * [https://www.rolex.com/watchmaking/features/movements/perpetual-rotor Rolex: Perpetual rotor], mechanism introduced in 1931; caliber not specified. | ||