Reference:Bracelets: Difference between revisions
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Correct documented Milgauss bracelet reference to 72400 |
Audit bracelet references, end-link navigation and prose |
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This guide identifies Oyster, Jubilee and President bracelets, their end links and clasp markings. Use it to compare a bracelet with the documented fittings for a watch reference. | This guide identifies Oyster, Jubilee and President bracelets, their end links and clasp markings. Use it to compare a bracelet with the documented fittings for a watch reference. | ||
A clasp code dates the bracelet | A clasp code dates the bracelet; the case has its own [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial-number dating]]. Parts sheets and auction catalogues show documented fittings. Establishing original delivery requires evidence from the individual watch. | ||
== Quick jump == | == Quick jump == | ||
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<div class="rp-index"> | <div class="rp-index"> | ||
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Bracelet refs</div><div class="rp-chips">[[#bracelet-7206|7206]] [[#bracelet-78360|78360]] [[#bracelet-78390|78390]] [[#bracelet-93150|93150]] [[#bracelet-97200|97200]] [[#bracelet-9315|9315]]</div></div> | <div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Bracelet refs</div><div class="rp-chips">[[#bracelet-7206|7206]] [[#bracelet-78360|78360]] [[#bracelet-78390|78390]] [[#bracelet-93150|93150]] [[#bracelet-97200|97200]] [[#bracelet-9315|9315]]</div></div> | ||
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">End links</div><div class="rp-chips">[[#end-link-503|503]] [[#end-link-580|580 | <div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">End links</div><div class="rp-chips">[[#end-link-503|503]] [[#end-link-580|580]] [[#end-link-557|557]] [[#end-link-integral-modern|integral modern]]</div></div> | ||
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Clasps</div><div class="rp-chips">[[#clasp-oysterlock-vintage|Oysterlock vintage]] [[#clasp-oysterlock-modern|Oysterlock modern]] [[#clasp-glidelock|Glidelock]] [[#clasp-easylink|Easylink]]</div></div> | <div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Clasps</div><div class="rp-chips">[[#clasp-oysterlock-vintage|Oysterlock vintage]] [[#clasp-oysterlock-modern|Oysterlock modern]] [[#clasp-glidelock|Glidelock]] [[#clasp-easylink|Easylink]]</div></div> | ||
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Link types</div><div class="rp-chips">[[#link-type-rivet|rivet]] [[#link-type-folded|folded]] [[#link-type-solid|solid]] [[#link-type-oyster|Oyster]] [[#link-type-jubilee|Jubilee]] [[#link-type-president|President]]</div></div> | <div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Link types</div><div class="rp-chips">[[#link-type-rivet|rivet]] [[#link-type-folded|folded]] [[#link-type-solid|solid]] [[#link-type-oyster|Oyster]] [[#link-type-jubilee|Jubilee]] [[#link-type-president|President]]</div></div> | ||
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== Bracelets by reference == | == Bracelets by reference == | ||
Dates below | Dates below come from dated parts sheets or individual records, so they describe documented examples rather than complete production runs. Parts sheets identify components; auction catalogues record the bracelet fitted when a watch was offered. An individual watch needs its own evidence for original delivery. | ||
{| class="wikitable sortable" | {| class="wikitable sortable" | ||
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| <span id="bracelet-9315"></span>'''9315''' || Oyster folded link, 20mm || Listed in Rolex parts sheet, 1985 || Folded || 280 / 285 fixed; 380 / 385 removable || Submariner, Sea-Dweller || Rolex sheet 321-6 shows the folded-link construction and alternative end fittings. | | <span id="bracelet-9315"></span>'''9315''' || Oyster folded link, 20mm || Listed in Rolex parts sheet, 1985 || Folded || 280 / 285 fixed; 380 / 385 removable || Submariner, Sea-Dweller || Rolex sheet 321-6 shows the folded-link construction and alternative end fittings. | ||
|- | |- | ||
| <span id="bracelet-7835"></span>'''7835''' || Oyster folded link, 19mm || Vintage || Folded || 271; 357 on documented Air-Kings || Daytona, Air-King || For | | <span id="bracelet-7835"></span>'''7835''' || Oyster folded link, 19mm || Vintage || Folded || 271; 357 on documented Air-Kings || Daytona, Air-King || For 20mm cases, compare the wider bracelet references and inspect the end-link stamp. | ||
|- | |- | ||
| <span id="bracelet-7836"></span>'''7836''' || Oyster folded link, 20mm || Vintage; parts shared in 1985 sheet || Folded || 380 || GMT-Master, Explorer || Rolex sheet 321-6 identifies parts shared with the 9315. Sharing parts does not make the two bracelet references interchangeable. | | <span id="bracelet-7836"></span>'''7836''' || Oyster folded link, 20mm || Vintage; parts shared in 1985 sheet || Folded || 380 || GMT-Master, Explorer || Rolex sheet 321-6 identifies parts shared with the 9315. Sharing parts does not make the two bracelet references interchangeable. | ||
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|- | |- | ||
| <span id="bracelet-93150"></span>'''93150''' || Oyster solid link, 20mm || Listed in 1985; continued into later references || Solid || 501, 580, 585, 593 in the 1985 sheet || Submariner, Sea-Dweller || Rolex sheet 323-3 separates steel 93150 fittings from Rolesor 93153 fittings. It does not establish a universal case pairing or a 1990 end date. | | <span id="bracelet-93150"></span>'''93150''' || Oyster solid link, 20mm || Listed in 1985; continued into later references || Solid || 501, 580, 585, 593 in the 1985 sheet || Submariner, Sea-Dweller || Rolex sheet 323-3 separates steel 93150 fittings from Rolesor 93153 fittings. It does not establish a universal case pairing or a 1990 end date. | ||
|- | |- | ||
| <span id="bracelet-62510H"></span>'''62510H''' || Jubilee, 20mm, steel || Listed in Rolex parts sheet, 1985 || Jubilee || 502, 550, 555; 502B on the cited GMT lot || Datejust, GMT-Master || Sheet 322-4 distinguishes steel 62510H from Rolesor 62523H. Phillips records a 62510H with 502B end links on a 1675. That auction pairing does not prove original delivery. | | <span id="bracelet-62510H"></span>'''62510H''' || Jubilee, 20mm, steel || Listed in Rolex parts sheet, 1985 || Jubilee || 502, 550, 555; 502B on the cited GMT lot || Datejust, GMT-Master || Sheet 322-4 distinguishes steel 62510H from Rolesor 62523H. Phillips records a 62510H with 502B end links on a 1675. That auction pairing does not prove original delivery. | ||
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| <span id="bracelet-93250"></span>'''93250''' || Oyster with solid end links, 20mm, steel || 16610 generation || Solid || 801 on the cited example || Submariner 16610 || Phillips lot 146024 records a steel 16610 with 93250, 801 end links and a DT3 clasp. It is not a two-tone predecessor of 78363. | | <span id="bracelet-93250"></span>'''93250''' || Oyster with solid end links, 20mm, steel || 16610 generation || Solid || 801 on the cited example || Submariner 16610 || Phillips lot 146024 records a steel 16610 with 93250, 801 end links and a DT3 clasp. It is not a two-tone predecessor of 78363. | ||
|- | |- | ||
| <span id="bracelet-78363"></span>'''78363''' || Oyster, 20mm, steel and yellow gold || Five-digit generation || Solid || Hollow end links; check exact fitting || Daytona 16523, GMT-Master || | | <span id="bracelet-78363"></span>'''78363''' || Oyster, 20mm, steel and yellow gold || Five-digit generation || Solid || Hollow end links; check exact fitting || Daytona 16523, GMT-Master || The 78363 is the steel-and-gold Daytona bracelet, separate from the steel Submariner 93250. The later polished-centre Daytona bracelet is 78393; its timing does not date the 78363 changeover. | ||
|- | |- | ||
| <span id="bracelet-8385"></span>'''8385''' || President, 20mm, gold || Vintage Day-Date generation || President || Check the individual bracelet || Day-Date || President end fittings need their own identification; 455 appears in the Rolex sheet for Rolesor Jubilee 62523H. | | <span id="bracelet-8385"></span>'''8385''' || President, 20mm, gold || Vintage Day-Date generation || President || Check the individual bracelet || Day-Date || President end fittings need their own identification; 455 appears in the Rolex sheet for Rolesor Jubilee 62523H. | ||
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== End links == | == End links == | ||
End links connect the bracelet to the case lugs. Match their shape and markings to the bracelet and case reference. Read letter suffixes against dated parts sheets and pictured examples; they do not encode finish or construction consistently. The table gives documented pairings, not a complete fitment chart. | |||
End links connect the bracelet to the case lugs. Match their shape and markings to the bracelet and case reference. | |||
{| class="wikitable sortable" | {| class="wikitable sortable" | ||
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| <span id="end-link-80"></span>'''80''' || 7206 || Submariner and other documented 20mm cases || Hollow || Collector reference tables || Rivet-bracelet fitting; the stamp is not a production-year code. | | <span id="end-link-80"></span>'''80''' || 7206 || Submariner and other documented 20mm cases || Hollow || Collector reference tables || Rivet-bracelet fitting; the stamp is not a production-year code. | ||
|- | |- | ||
| <span id="end-link-271"></span>'''271''' || 7205, 7835 || 19mm chronograph cases || Hollow || Collector reference tables || Inspect the actual stamp | | <span id="end-link-271"></span>'''271''' || 7205, 7835 || 19mm chronograph cases || Hollow || Collector reference tables || Inspect the actual stamp and compare it with a photograph of the fitting. | ||
|- | |- | ||
| <span id="end-link-380"></span>'''380''' || 9315, 7836 || 20mm cases; fitting varies || Hollow || Rolex sheet 321-6, 1985 || Listed with the folded-link 9315; the sheet also identifies shared 7836 parts. | | <span id="end-link-380"></span>'''380''' || 9315, 7836 || 20mm cases; fitting varies || Hollow || Rolex sheet 321-6, 1985 || Listed with the folded-link 9315; the sheet also identifies shared 7836 parts. | ||
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| <span id="end-link-455"></span>'''455''' || 62523H || Rolesor Jubilee applications || Hollow || Rolex sheet 322-4, 1985 || The sheet lists 455 with Rolesor 62523H, not steel 62510H or President 8385. | | <span id="end-link-455"></span>'''455''' || 62523H || Rolesor Jubilee applications || Hollow || Rolex sheet 322-4, 1985 || The sheet lists 455 with Rolesor 62523H, not steel 62510H or President 8385. | ||
|- | |- | ||
| <span id="end-link-501"></span>'''501''' || 93150 || | | <span id="end-link-501"></span>'''501''' || 93150 || Specific case fitment varies || Hollow || Rolex sheet 323-3, 1985 || The 1985 sheet lists 501 with the steel 93150. Match the fitting to the case and bracelet. | ||
|- | |- | ||
| <span id="end-link-502B"></span>'''502B''' || 62510H || GMT-Master 1675 in the cited lot || Hollow || Phillips Geneva 2018, lot 19 || | | <span id="end-link-502B"></span>'''502B''' || 62510H || GMT-Master 1675 in the cited lot || Hollow || Phillips Geneva 2018, lot 19 || Phillips records it on a Jubilee bracelet. The lot includes a 2005 service guarantee, so it documents that watch’s recorded configuration. | ||
|- | |- | ||
| <span id="end-link-503"></span>'''503''' || 78360 || Daytona 16520 || Hollow || Blackbird Watch Manual; Field Manual || Brushed-bracelet fitting. | | <span id="end-link-503"></span>'''503''' || 78360 || Daytona 16520 || Hollow || Blackbird Watch Manual; Field Manual || Brushed-bracelet fitting. | ||
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| <span id="end-link-585"></span>'''585''' || 93150 || Sea-Dweller || Hollow || Rolex sheet 323-3; collector reference tables || The sheet lists the part; collector reference tables identify the Sea-Dweller application. | | <span id="end-link-585"></span>'''585''' || 93150 || Sea-Dweller || Hollow || Rolex sheet 323-3; collector reference tables || The sheet lists the part; collector reference tables identify the Sea-Dweller application. | ||
|- | |- | ||
| <span id="end-link-integral-modern"></span>'''integral-modern''' || Bracelet-specific || Match the exact watch and bracelet references || Solid || Modern reference specifications || Solid end links | | <span id="end-link-integral-modern"></span>'''integral-modern''' || Bracelet-specific || Match the exact watch and bracelet references || Solid || Modern reference specifications || Solid end links describe construction rather than a universal part number. Check the exact bracelet and case references, especially across the 40mm and 41mm Submariner generations. | ||
|- | |- | ||
| <span id="end-link-57"></span>'''57''' || Vintage 19mm Oyster || Air-King 5500 in the cited lot || Hollow || Phillips Geneva 2016, lot 22 || The catalogue records both 57 and 357 markings on one bracelet | | <span id="end-link-57"></span>'''57''' || Vintage 19mm Oyster || Air-King 5500 in the cited lot || Hollow || Phillips Geneva 2016, lot 22 || The cited catalogue records both 57 and 357 markings on one bracelet; that example alone cannot date a general changeover. | ||
|- | |- | ||
| <span id="end-link-357"></span>'''357''' || Vintage 19mm Oyster || Air-King 5500 in the cited lot || Hollow || Phillips Geneva 2016, lot 22 || The cited Air-King has 19mm lugs; the Explorer 1016 has 20mm lugs. | | <span id="end-link-357"></span>'''357''' || Vintage 19mm Oyster || Air-King 5500 in the cited lot || Hollow || Phillips Geneva 2016, lot 22 || The cited Air-King has 19mm lugs; the Explorer 1016 has 20mm lugs. | ||
|- | |- | ||
| <span id="end-link-557"></span>'''557''' || 78350-19 || 19mm Air-King applications || Hollow || Rolex sheet 322-8, 1985 || The sheet | | <span id="end-link-557"></span>'''557''' || 78350-19 || 19mm Air-King applications || Hollow || Rolex sheet 322-8, 1985 || The sheet documents this bracelet and end-link pairing. Any change to solid end links around the 14000 launch needs separate dated evidence. | ||
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