Reference:Bracelets: Difference between revisions

[checked revision][checked revision]
Correct documented Milgauss bracelet reference to 72400
Audit bracelet references, end-link navigation and prose
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This guide identifies Oyster, Jubilee and President bracelets, their end links and clasp markings. Use it to compare a bracelet with the documented fittings for a watch reference.
This guide identifies Oyster, Jubilee and President bracelets, their end links and clasp markings. Use it to compare a bracelet with the documented fittings for a watch reference.


A clasp code dates the bracelet, not the watch head; the case carries its own [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial-number dating]]. A documented pairing does not establish that a particular bracelet was delivered with a particular watch.
A clasp code dates the bracelet; the case has its own [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial-number dating]]. Parts sheets and auction catalogues show documented fittings. Establishing original delivery requires evidence from the individual watch.


== Quick jump ==
== Quick jump ==
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<div class="rp-index">
<div class="rp-index">
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Bracelet refs</div><div class="rp-chips">[[#bracelet-7206|7206]] [[#bracelet-78360|78360]] [[#bracelet-78390|78390]] [[#bracelet-93150|93150]] [[#bracelet-97200|97200]] [[#bracelet-9315|9315]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Bracelet refs</div><div class="rp-chips">[[#bracelet-7206|7206]] [[#bracelet-78360|78360]] [[#bracelet-78390|78390]] [[#bracelet-93150|93150]] [[#bracelet-97200|97200]] [[#bracelet-9315|9315]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">End links</div><div class="rp-chips">[[#end-link-503|503]] [[#end-link-580|580]] [[#end-link-471|471]] [[#end-link-557|557]] [[#end-link-integral-modern|integral modern]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">End links</div><div class="rp-chips">[[#end-link-503|503]] [[#end-link-580|580]] [[#end-link-557|557]] [[#end-link-integral-modern|integral modern]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Clasps</div><div class="rp-chips">[[#clasp-oysterlock-vintage|Oysterlock vintage]] [[#clasp-oysterlock-modern|Oysterlock modern]] [[#clasp-glidelock|Glidelock]] [[#clasp-easylink|Easylink]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Clasps</div><div class="rp-chips">[[#clasp-oysterlock-vintage|Oysterlock vintage]] [[#clasp-oysterlock-modern|Oysterlock modern]] [[#clasp-glidelock|Glidelock]] [[#clasp-easylink|Easylink]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Link types</div><div class="rp-chips">[[#link-type-rivet|rivet]] [[#link-type-folded|folded]] [[#link-type-solid|solid]] [[#link-type-oyster|Oyster]] [[#link-type-jubilee|Jubilee]] [[#link-type-president|President]]</div></div>
<div class="rp-era"><div class="rp-era-name">Link types</div><div class="rp-chips">[[#link-type-rivet|rivet]] [[#link-type-folded|folded]] [[#link-type-solid|solid]] [[#link-type-oyster|Oyster]] [[#link-type-jubilee|Jubilee]] [[#link-type-president|President]]</div></div>
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== Bracelets by reference ==
== Bracelets by reference ==


Dates below describe a period or a dated source, not a guaranteed production range. Rolex parts sheets identify components; auction catalogues record the bracelet present when a watch was offered. Neither alone proves what was fitted at the original sale.
Dates below come from dated parts sheets or individual records, so they describe documented examples rather than complete production runs. Parts sheets identify components; auction catalogues record the bracelet fitted when a watch was offered. An individual watch needs its own evidence for original delivery.


{| class="wikitable sortable"
{| class="wikitable sortable"
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| <span id="bracelet-9315"></span>'''9315''' || Oyster folded link, 20mm || Listed in Rolex parts sheet, 1985 || Folded || 280 / 285 fixed; 380 / 385 removable || Submariner, Sea-Dweller || Rolex sheet 321-6 shows the folded-link construction and alternative end fittings.
| <span id="bracelet-9315"></span>'''9315''' || Oyster folded link, 20mm || Listed in Rolex parts sheet, 1985 || Folded || 280 / 285 fixed; 380 / 385 removable || Submariner, Sea-Dweller || Rolex sheet 321-6 shows the folded-link construction and alternative end fittings.
|-
|-
| <span id="bracelet-7835"></span>'''7835''' || Oyster folded link, 19mm || Vintage || Folded || 271; 357 on documented Air-Kings || Daytona, Air-King || For the 20mm Explorer 1016, see the wider bracelet references. Read the actual end-link stamp: a reported 771 needs photographic examination.
| <span id="bracelet-7835"></span>'''7835''' || Oyster folded link, 19mm || Vintage || Folded || 271; 357 on documented Air-Kings || Daytona, Air-King || For 20mm cases, compare the wider bracelet references and inspect the end-link stamp.
|-
|-
| <span id="bracelet-7836"></span>'''7836''' || Oyster folded link, 20mm || Vintage; parts shared in 1985 sheet || Folded || 380 || GMT-Master, Explorer || Rolex sheet 321-6 identifies parts shared with the 9315. Sharing parts does not make the two bracelet references interchangeable.
| <span id="bracelet-7836"></span>'''7836''' || Oyster folded link, 20mm || Vintage; parts shared in 1985 sheet || Folded || 380 || GMT-Master, Explorer || Rolex sheet 321-6 identifies parts shared with the 9315. Sharing parts does not make the two bracelet references interchangeable.
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|-
|-
| <span id="bracelet-93150"></span>'''93150''' || Oyster solid link, 20mm || Listed in 1985; continued into later references || Solid || 501, 580, 585, 593 in the 1985 sheet || Submariner, Sea-Dweller || Rolex sheet 323-3 separates steel 93150 fittings from Rolesor 93153 fittings. It does not establish a universal case pairing or a 1990 end date.
| <span id="bracelet-93150"></span>'''93150''' || Oyster solid link, 20mm || Listed in 1985; continued into later references || Solid || 501, 580, 585, 593 in the 1985 sheet || Submariner, Sea-Dweller || Rolex sheet 323-3 separates steel 93150 fittings from Rolesor 93153 fittings. It does not establish a universal case pairing or a 1990 end date.
|-
| <span id="bracelet-78240"></span>'''78240''' || Identification caution || — || — || No 20mm Jubilee fitment established here || — || Do not use this entry as evidence for a GMT Jubilee pairing. See the documented 62510H below.
|-
|-
| <span id="bracelet-62510H"></span>'''62510H''' || Jubilee, 20mm, steel || Listed in Rolex parts sheet, 1985 || Jubilee || 502, 550, 555; 502B on the cited GMT lot || Datejust, GMT-Master || Sheet 322-4 distinguishes steel 62510H from Rolesor 62523H. Phillips records a 62510H with 502B end links on a 1675. That auction pairing does not prove original delivery.
| <span id="bracelet-62510H"></span>'''62510H''' || Jubilee, 20mm, steel || Listed in Rolex parts sheet, 1985 || Jubilee || 502, 550, 555; 502B on the cited GMT lot || Datejust, GMT-Master || Sheet 322-4 distinguishes steel 62510H from Rolesor 62523H. Phillips records a 62510H with 502B end links on a 1675. That auction pairing does not prove original delivery.
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| <span id="bracelet-93250"></span>'''93250''' || Oyster with solid end links, 20mm, steel || 16610 generation || Solid || 801 on the cited example || Submariner 16610 || Phillips lot 146024 records a steel 16610 with 93250, 801 end links and a DT3 clasp. It is not a two-tone predecessor of 78363.
| <span id="bracelet-93250"></span>'''93250''' || Oyster with solid end links, 20mm, steel || 16610 generation || Solid || 801 on the cited example || Submariner 16610 || Phillips lot 146024 records a steel 16610 with 93250, 801 end links and a DT3 clasp. It is not a two-tone predecessor of 78363.
|-
|-
| <span id="bracelet-78363"></span>'''78363''' || Oyster, 20mm, steel and yellow gold || Five-digit generation || Solid || Hollow end links; check exact fitting || Daytona 16523, GMT-Master || Distinct from the steel Submariner 93250. The later polished-centre Daytona bracelet is 78393; the steel Daytona transition does not establish the Rolesor changeover date.
| <span id="bracelet-78363"></span>'''78363''' || Oyster, 20mm, steel and yellow gold || Five-digit generation || Solid || Hollow end links; check exact fitting || Daytona 16523, GMT-Master || The 78363 is the steel-and-gold Daytona bracelet, separate from the steel Submariner 93250. The later polished-centre Daytona bracelet is 78393; its timing does not date the 78363 changeover.
|-
|-
| <span id="bracelet-8385"></span>'''8385''' || President, 20mm, gold || Vintage Day-Date generation || President || Check the individual bracelet || Day-Date || President end fittings need their own identification; 455 appears in the Rolex sheet for Rolesor Jubilee 62523H.
| <span id="bracelet-8385"></span>'''8385''' || President, 20mm, gold || Vintage Day-Date generation || President || Check the individual bracelet || Day-Date || President end fittings need their own identification; 455 appears in the Rolex sheet for Rolesor Jubilee 62523H.
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== End links ==
== End links ==


<span id="end-link-379"></span><span id="end-link-380B"></span><span id="end-link-381"></span><span id="end-link-451"></span><span id="end-link-471"></span><span id="end-link-501B"></span><span id="end-link-558"></span><span id="end-link-558B"></span><span id="end-link-583"></span><span id="end-link-557B"></span>
End links connect the bracelet to the case lugs. Match their shape and markings to the bracelet and case reference. Read letter suffixes against dated parts sheets and pictured examples; they do not encode finish or construction consistently. The table gives documented pairings, not a complete fitment chart.
End links connect the bracelet to the case lugs. Match their shape and markings to the bracelet and case reference. A letter suffix is not a universal code for a polished finish or solid construction. The table lists documented pairings; it is not an exhaustive compatibility chart.


{| class="wikitable sortable"
{| class="wikitable sortable"
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| <span id="end-link-80"></span>'''80''' || 7206 || Submariner and other documented 20mm cases || Hollow || Collector reference tables || Rivet-bracelet fitting; the stamp is not a production-year code.
| <span id="end-link-80"></span>'''80''' || 7206 || Submariner and other documented 20mm cases || Hollow || Collector reference tables || Rivet-bracelet fitting; the stamp is not a production-year code.
|-
|-
| <span id="end-link-271"></span>'''271''' || 7205, 7835 || 19mm chronograph cases || Hollow || Collector reference tables || Inspect the actual stamp. A reported 771 should not be dismissed as an OCR error without a photograph.
| <span id="end-link-271"></span>'''271''' || 7205, 7835 || 19mm chronograph cases || Hollow || Collector reference tables || Inspect the actual stamp and compare it with a photograph of the fitting.
|-
|-
| <span id="end-link-380"></span>'''380''' || 9315, 7836 || 20mm cases; fitting varies || Hollow || Rolex sheet 321-6, 1985 || Listed with the folded-link 9315; the sheet also identifies shared 7836 parts.
| <span id="end-link-380"></span>'''380''' || 9315, 7836 || 20mm cases; fitting varies || Hollow || Rolex sheet 321-6, 1985 || Listed with the folded-link 9315; the sheet also identifies shared 7836 parts.
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| <span id="end-link-455"></span>'''455''' || 62523H || Rolesor Jubilee applications || Hollow || Rolex sheet 322-4, 1985 || The sheet lists 455 with Rolesor 62523H, not steel 62510H or President 8385.
| <span id="end-link-455"></span>'''455''' || 62523H || Rolesor Jubilee applications || Hollow || Rolex sheet 322-4, 1985 || The sheet lists 455 with Rolesor 62523H, not steel 62510H or President 8385.
|-
|-
| <span id="end-link-501"></span>'''501''' || 93150 || Case application requires a separate source || Hollow || Rolex sheet 323-3, 1985 || Listed among steel 93150 end links. The number is not a universal two-tone designation.
| <span id="end-link-501"></span>'''501''' || 93150 || Specific case fitment varies || Hollow || Rolex sheet 323-3, 1985 || The 1985 sheet lists 501 with the steel 93150. Match the fitting to the case and bracelet.
|-
|-
| <span id="end-link-502B"></span>'''502B''' || 62510H || GMT-Master 1675 in the cited lot || Hollow || Phillips Geneva 2018, lot 19 || Recorded on a Jubilee bracelet. The lot also has a 2005 service guarantee; original bracelet delivery is not established.
| <span id="end-link-502B"></span>'''502B''' || 62510H || GMT-Master 1675 in the cited lot || Hollow || Phillips Geneva 2018, lot 19 || Phillips records it on a Jubilee bracelet. The lot includes a 2005 service guarantee, so it documents that watch’s recorded configuration.
|-
|-
| <span id="end-link-503"></span>'''503''' || 78360 || Daytona 16520 || Hollow || Blackbird Watch Manual; Field Manual || Brushed-bracelet fitting.
| <span id="end-link-503"></span>'''503''' || 78360 || Daytona 16520 || Hollow || Blackbird Watch Manual; Field Manual || Brushed-bracelet fitting.
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| <span id="end-link-585"></span>'''585''' || 93150 || Sea-Dweller || Hollow || Rolex sheet 323-3; collector reference tables || The sheet lists the part; collector reference tables identify the Sea-Dweller application.
| <span id="end-link-585"></span>'''585''' || 93150 || Sea-Dweller || Hollow || Rolex sheet 323-3; collector reference tables || The sheet lists the part; collector reference tables identify the Sea-Dweller application.
|-
|-
| <span id="end-link-integral-modern"></span>'''integral-modern''' || Bracelet-specific || Match the exact watch and bracelet references || Solid || Modern reference specifications || Solid end links are a construction type, not a universal part number. Do not transfer a 40mm Submariner fitting to a 41mm watch from its family name alone.
| <span id="end-link-integral-modern"></span>'''integral-modern''' || Bracelet-specific || Match the exact watch and bracelet references || Solid || Modern reference specifications || Solid end links describe construction rather than a universal part number. Check the exact bracelet and case references, especially across the 40mm and 41mm Submariner generations.
|-
|-
| <span id="end-link-57"></span>'''57''' || Vintage 19mm Oyster || Air-King 5500 in the cited lot || Hollow || Phillips Geneva 2016, lot 22 || The catalogue records both 57 and 357 markings on one bracelet. This does not establish a universal transition date.
| <span id="end-link-57"></span>'''57''' || Vintage 19mm Oyster || Air-King 5500 in the cited lot || Hollow || Phillips Geneva 2016, lot 22 || The cited catalogue records both 57 and 357 markings on one bracelet; that example alone cannot date a general changeover.
|-
|-
| <span id="end-link-357"></span>'''357''' || Vintage 19mm Oyster || Air-King 5500 in the cited lot || Hollow || Phillips Geneva 2016, lot 22 || The cited Air-King has 19mm lugs; the Explorer 1016 has 20mm lugs.
| <span id="end-link-357"></span>'''357''' || Vintage 19mm Oyster || Air-King 5500 in the cited lot || Hollow || Phillips Geneva 2016, lot 22 || The cited Air-King has 19mm lugs; the Explorer 1016 has 20mm lugs.
|-
|-
| <span id="end-link-557"></span>'''557''' || 78350-19 || 19mm Air-King applications || Hollow || Rolex sheet 322-8, 1985 || The sheet establishes the bracelet pairing. It does not establish a change to solid end links at the 14000 launch.
| <span id="end-link-557"></span>'''557''' || 78350-19 || 19mm Air-King applications || Hollow || Rolex sheet 322-8, 1985 || The sheet documents this bracelet and end-link pairing. Any change to solid end links around the 14000 launch needs separate dated evidence.
|}
|}