Reference:1005: Difference between revisions
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==Dial map== | ==Dial map== | ||
[[File:Ref 1005 yellow gold.webp|thumb|right|250px|Champagne dial and gold fluted bezel on a yellow gold 1005, circa 1963]] | [[File:Ref 1005 yellow gold.webp|thumb|right|250px|Champagne dial and gold fluted bezel on a yellow gold 1005, circa 1963|alt=Champagne dial and gold fluted bezel on a yellow gold 1005, circa 1963]] | ||
Champagne is the reference's signature dial and appears on more documented examples than everything else combined, which follows from the gold cases. The finish is a warm sunburst with applied gilt or gold baton markers, black or gilt outer minute divisions, and luminous five-minute dots on the examples that carry lume. Bonhams describes the standard configuration precisely on the 1973 London-import watch: pale champagne, applied gilt baton hour markers with black accents, black outer minute divisions with luminous dot five-minute markers, and gilt baton hands with luminous inserts. | Champagne is the reference's signature dial and appears on more documented examples than everything else combined, which follows from the gold cases. The finish is a warm sunburst with applied gilt or gold baton markers, black or gilt outer minute divisions, and luminous five-minute dots on the examples that carry lume. Bonhams describes the standard configuration precisely on the 1973 London-import watch: pale champagne, applied gilt baton hour markers with black accents, black outer minute divisions with luminous dot five-minute markers, and gilt baton hands with luminous inserts. | ||
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==Case, bezel, crystal, and crown== | ==Case, bezel, crystal, and crown== | ||
[[File:Ref 1005 textured gold.webp|thumb|right|250px|18K gold example catalogued under the paired designation ref 1005/1035, on an integrated textured-gold bracelet]] | [[File:Ref 1005 textured gold.webp|thumb|right|250px|18K gold example catalogued under the paired designation ref 1005/1035, on an integrated textured-gold bracelet|alt=18K gold example catalogued under the paired designation ref 1005/1035, on an integrated textured-gold bracelet]] | ||
The case is the shared 34mm Oyster, three-body, brushed and polished in a tonneau profile, with a screw-down caseback, Twinlock screw-down crown, drilled 19mm lugs and an acrylic crystal throughout the run. House measurements vary between 33mm and 34mm on the same case; 34mm is the figure that agrees with the bulk of the record. | The case is the shared 34mm Oyster, three-body, brushed and polished in a tonneau profile, with a screw-down caseback, Twinlock screw-down crown, drilled 19mm lugs and an acrylic crystal throughout the run. House measurements vary between 33mm and 34mm on the same case; 34mm is the figure that agrees with the bulk of the record. | ||
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==Bracelets, end links, and clasps== | ==Bracelets, end links, and clasps== | ||
[[File:Ref 1005 bracelet.webp|thumb|right|250px|A 14K gold head on an 18K gold Oyster bracelet, a documented mixed-carat delivery]] | [[File:Ref 1005 bracelet.webp|thumb|right|250px|A 14K gold head on an 18K gold Oyster bracelet, a documented mixed-carat delivery|alt=A 14K gold head on an 18K gold Oyster bracelet, a documented mixed-carat delivery]] | ||
Gold delivery through the 1960s was a gold riveted Oyster bracelet with a folding clasp, and Sotheby's recorded one such bracelet on a 1962 pink-gold watch stamped by Gay Frères, the Geneva bracelet maker Rolex used before bringing production in-house. Folded-link gold Oyster bracelets follow, and two-tone watches came on steel-and-gold folded Oyster bracelets with signed folding clasps. Gold fold-over bracelets and leather straps with signed gilt or gold buckles are both original fitments, and a large share of surviving 1005s come to auction on associated leather. | Gold delivery through the 1960s was a gold riveted Oyster bracelet with a folding clasp, and Sotheby's recorded one such bracelet on a 1962 pink-gold watch stamped by Gay Frères, the Geneva bracelet maker Rolex used before bringing production in-house. Folded-link gold Oyster bracelets follow, and two-tone watches came on steel-and-gold folded Oyster bracelets with signed folding clasps. Gold fold-over bracelets and leather straps with signed gilt or gold buckles are both original fitments, and a large share of surviving 1005s come to auction on associated leather. | ||
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===Pink and rose gold=== | ===Pink and rose gold=== | ||
[[File:Ref 1005 pink gold.webp|thumb|right|250px|18k pink gold 1005 on a gold riveted Oyster bracelet, circa 1963]] | [[File:Ref 1005 pink gold.webp|thumb|right|250px|18k pink gold 1005 on a gold riveted Oyster bracelet, circa 1963|alt=18k pink gold 1005 on a gold riveted Oyster bracelet, circa 1963]] | ||
The 1005 is the reference in this group where pink gold is a real branch rather than a curiosity. Bonhams sold an 18k pink gold example in Hong Kong in December 2022, case number 826,301, on an 18k gold bracelet; Sotheby's had sold the same watch in Geneva in June 2020 with the bracelet identified as Gay Frères and the case number matching. Artcurial sold an 18K rose gold watch, case number 1,177,843, with its box and guarantee, silver dial, rose-gold markers and rose-gold leaf hands. Bonhams catalogued a further 18K rose gold example with caliber 1560 in February 2019. The pink-gold watches produce the strongest results on the reference. | The 1005 is the reference in this group where pink gold is a real branch rather than a curiosity. Bonhams sold an 18k pink gold example in Hong Kong in December 2022, case number 826,301, on an 18k gold bracelet; Sotheby's had sold the same watch in Geneva in June 2020 with the bracelet identified as Gay Frères and the case number matching. Artcurial sold an 18K rose gold watch, case number 1,177,843, with its box and guarantee, silver dial, rose-gold markers and rose-gold leaf hands. Bonhams catalogued a further 18K rose gold example with caliber 1560 in February 2019. The pink-gold watches produce the strongest results on the reference. | ||
===The two-tone 1005=== | ===The two-tone 1005=== | ||
[[File:Ref 1005 two tone.webp|thumb|right|250px|Gold fluted bezel over a steel case, white dial with black Roman numerals, circa 1971]] | [[File:Ref 1005 two tone.webp|thumb|right|250px|Gold fluted bezel over a steel case, white dial with black Roman numerals, circa 1971|alt=Gold fluted bezel over a steel case, white dial with black Roman numerals, circa 1971]] | ||
Steel-and-gold 1005s pair a steel case and steel-and-gold Oyster bracelet with a gold fluted bezel and gold-toned dial furniture. Bonhams sold a 1971 example in Paris with a white dial carrying black Roman numerals and applied luminous-tipped gilt baton markers, gross weight 71.30 grams. The configuration is the closest the reference comes to a Datejust, and it is the one where the gold-bezel-on-steel rule is most visible. | Steel-and-gold 1005s pair a steel case and steel-and-gold Oyster bracelet with a gold fluted bezel and gold-toned dial furniture. Bonhams sold a 1971 example in Paris with a white dial carrying black Roman numerals and applied luminous-tipped gilt baton markers, gross weight 71.30 grams. The configuration is the closest the reference comes to a Datejust, and it is the one where the gold-bezel-on-steel rule is most visible. | ||