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== Bracelets by reference ==
== Bracelets by reference ==


The table lists bracelet references and their documented applications. The Notes column distinguishes sub-variants where evidence allows.
Dates below describe a period or a dated source, not a guaranteed production range. Rolex parts sheets identify components; auction catalogues record the bracelet present when a watch was offered. Neither alone proves what was fitted at the original sale.


{| class="wikitable sortable"
{| class="wikitable sortable"
! Ref !! Name !! Years !! Link type !! End-link compatibility !! Families fitted !! Notes
! Ref !! Name !! Period / evidence !! Link type !! End links !! Documented applications !! Notes
|-
|-
| <span id="bracelet-6635"></span>'''6635''' || Oyster rivet, 19mm (early Cosmograph) || 1955–1962 || Rivet || 271 (Daytona) / 57 (Air-King) || Daytona, Air-King, Oyster Perpetual || Pre-Cosmograph rivet for the chronograph 6234 / 6238 era. Largely supplanted by 7205 by the 6239 launch.
| <span id="bracelet-6635"></span>'''6635''' || Oyster stretch rivet, 19mm || Vintage || Stretch rivet || 57; check individual fitting || Chronographs, Air-King || The links expand; the 7205 uses fixed links.
|-
|-
| <span id="bracelet-7205"></span>'''7205''' || Oyster rivet, 19mm || 1958–1969 || Rivet || 271 (Daytona) / 57 / 357 (Air-King) || Daytona, Air-King, Oyster Perpetual|| 19mm sport / Air-King / Precision rivet bracelet. The 20mm Sport-model sibling is 7206. US-market C&I (Connecticut) made an unmarked-end-link 19mm rivet analogue 1959–1979; not a Rolex part.
| <span id="bracelet-7205"></span>'''7205''' || Oyster rivet, 19mm || Vintage || Rivet || 271; 57 / 357 on documented Air-Kings || Daytona, Air-King || The 7206 is the 20mm counterpart. A US-made C&I bracelet requires its own identification; lack of a Swiss bracelet number does not by itself make it an aftermarket part.
|-
|-
| <span id="bracelet-7206"></span>'''7206''' || Oyster rivet, 20mm || 1958–1969 || Rivet || 58, 60, 80 || Submariner, GMT-Master, Explorer || Two sub-generations: early small rivets (1958–early 60s) shifting to larger rivets in the mid-60s. End-link 80 is the 5513-era stamp; 58 / 60 carry on earlier small-crown / 1960 holdovers.
| <span id="bracelet-7206"></span>'''7206''' || Oyster rivet, 20mm || Vintage || Rivet || 58, 60, 80; application varies || Submariner, GMT-Master, Explorer || Compare end-link shape and case reference. The number alone does not establish original delivery.
|-
|-
| <span id="bracelet-9315"></span>'''9315''' || Oyster rivet, 20mm (early Sport-model) || 1953–1958 || Rivet || 58, 60 || Submariner, Explorer || Earliest Oyster rivet for the Sport-model line. Pre-7206 generation, lighter gauge.
| <span id="bracelet-9315"></span>'''9315''' || Oyster folded link, 20mm || Listed in Rolex parts sheet, 1985 || Folded || 280 / 285 fixed; 380 / 385 removable || Submariner, Sea-Dweller || Rolex sheet 321-6 shows the folded-link construction and alternative end fittings.
|-
|-
| <span id="bracelet-7835"></span>'''7835''' || Oyster folded link, 19mm || 1969–1976 || Folded || 271 (Daytona) / 357 (Air-King / Explorer 1016) || Daytona, Air-King, Explorer|| Folded-link successor to 7205 on the 19mm Daytona case. Some online tables show "771", a propagated OCR error of "271"; photographed examples only ever stamp 271.
| <span id="bracelet-7835"></span>'''7835''' || Oyster folded link, 19mm || Vintage || Folded || 271; 357 on documented Air-Kings || Daytona, Air-King || For the 20mm Explorer 1016, see the wider bracelet references. Read the actual end-link stamp: a reported 771 needs photographic examination.
|-
|-
| <span id="bracelet-7836"></span>'''7836''' || Oyster folded link, 20mm || 1969–1976 || Folded || 380, 380B || Submariner, GMT-Master, Explorer || 20mm Sport-model sibling of 7835. Documented through five-digit transitional production prior to the solid-link 93150 generation.
| <span id="bracelet-7836"></span>'''7836''' || Oyster folded link, 20mm || Vintage; parts shared in 1985 sheet || Folded || 380 || GMT-Master, Explorer || Rolex sheet 321-6 identifies parts shared with the 9315. Sharing parts does not make the two bracelet references interchangeable.
|-
|-
| <span id="bracelet-78350"></span>'''78350''' || Oyster folded link, 19mm / 20mm || 1976–1989 || Folded → solid (78350A) || 571, 380 (Daytona/Submariner) / 557 / 557B (Air-King) || Daytona, Submariner, Air-King || Late folded generation; documented as 78350-17 and 78350-19 width variants on the Rolex-published bracelet specification sheets. Substituted on later 6263 / 6265 production where original 7835 had failed.
| <span id="bracelet-78350"></span>'''78350''' || Oyster solid link, 19mm || Listed in Rolex parts sheet, 1985 || Solid || 557, 571 || Daytona, Air-King || Sheet 322-8 specifies the 78350-19 and its steel end links. A separate 17mm version exists.
|-
|-
| <span id="bracelet-78360"></span>'''78360''' || Oyster solid link, 20mm (full matte) || 1976–1993 || Solid || 503, 580 || Daytona, Submariner, GMT-Master, Explorer || First solid-link Oyster, brushed throughout. The 78360 → 78390 cutover on the Daytona 16520 sits in a 1991–1993 band; the Blackbird Watch Manual places it at 1993, while parts listings put 78390 production start at 1991.
| <span id="bracelet-78360"></span>'''78360''' || Oyster solid link, 20mm || 1970s onward; reference-dependent || Solid || 503 on 16520; 580 on other documented fittings || Daytona, GMT-Master, Explorer || The Daytona later changed to polished-centre bracelets. That change does not date the end of all 78360 production.
|-
|-
| <span id="bracelet-78390"></span>'''78390''' || Oyster solid link, 20mm (polished centre) || 1991–1998 || Solid || 503B || Daytona, Submariner || Brushed outer, polished centre the visual upgrade from 78360. Late production carries a short flip-lock clasp blade. The "B" suffix on end-link 503B denotes the matching polished middle piece.
| <span id="bracelet-78390"></span>'''78390''' || Oyster solid link, 20mm || Middle part of the 16520 run || Solid || 503B || Daytona || Polished centre links distinguish it from the brushed 78360. The Blackbird Watch Manual describes the 16520 progression.
|-
|-
| <span id="bracelet-78390A"></span>'''78390A''' || Oyster solid link, 20mm with SEL || 1997–2000 || Solid || 503B || Daytona || Bridge generation between separable-end-link 78390 and machined SEL 78490. Documented on late 16520 U / A / P-serial production.
| <span id="bracelet-78390A"></span>'''78390A''' || Oyster solid link with solid end links, 20mm || Late 16520 production || Solid || Solid end links || Daytona || Distinguish the solid end links from the separate hollow 503B fittings of the 78390.
|-
|-
| <span id="bracelet-78490"></span>'''78490''' || Oyster solid link with SEL, 20mm || 2000–2010s || Solid || 501B || Daytona, Submariner || Full SEL, machined links, Easylink 5mm comfort extension introduced mid-production. The 116520 bracelet ref is contested. Boettcher and the Blackbird Watch Manual both attest 78490; a handful of online tables list 78690, which stronger sources tie to the Explorer 14270 instead. 78490 is the reading to work from until a Rolex catalog or a 116520 caseback paper settles it.
| <span id="bracelet-78490"></span>'''78490''' || Oyster with solid end links, 20mm || 116520 generation || Solid || Solid end links || Daytona 116520 || Phillips lot 202605 records a 116520 with a clasp stamped 78490 and an April 2006 guarantee. The 78690 belongs to a different documented application.
|-
|-
| <span id="bracelet-78690"></span>'''78690''' || Oyster SEL, 20mm (Explorer-fitment) || 1990–2000s || Solid || 558, 558B || Explorer || Documented as the Explorer 14270 / 114270 SEL bracelet. Not a Daytona fitment, despite older listings cross-referencing it to the 116520; see the 78490 row for the dispute.
| <span id="bracelet-78690"></span>'''78690''' || Oyster with solid end links, 20mm || 114270 generation || Solid || Solid end links || Explorer 114270 || Phillips Hong Kong 2022 lot 8012 records 78690 on a 114270 with a November 2010 guarantee.
|-
|-
| <span id="bracelet-78790"></span>'''78790''' || Oyster SEL, 20mm (Datejust / GMT / Explorer fitment) || 1990s–2000s || Solid || 558 || Explorer, GMT-Master || Sister bracelet to 78690 fitted across non-Daytona Sport-model 20mm cases of the same era. No documented Daytona application.
| <span id="bracelet-78790"></span>'''78790''' || Oyster, 20mm || 1990s–2000s; reference-dependent || Solid || Hollow end links; check watch reference || GMT-Master, Explorer || Distinguish 78790 from 78790A, the version with solid end links.
|-
|-
| <span id="bracelet-93150"></span>'''93150''' || Oyster solid link, 20mm (Submariner / GMT / Sea-Dweller) || 1976–1990 || Solid || 580, 585 || Submariner, GMT-Master || Heavier solid-link generation for Sport-model 20mm cases. Distinct from 78360 in link gauge and end-link family. No documented Daytona OE fitment.
| <span id="bracelet-93150"></span>'''93150''' || Oyster solid link, 20mm || Listed in 1985; continued into later references || Solid || 501, 580, 585, 593 in the 1985 sheet || Submariner, Sea-Dweller || Rolex sheet 323-3 separates steel 93150 fittings from Rolesor 93153 fittings. It does not establish a universal case pairing or a 1990 end date.
|-
|-
| <span id="bracelet-78240"></span>'''78240''' || Jubilee, 20mm (five-link, smaller) || 1976–2000s || Jubilee || 455 || Submariner, GMT-Master, Oyster Perpetual || Cross-fitted Datejust 36mm, Submariner Rolesor, and Pepsi GMT-Master 16700 / 16710. Original Jubilee fitment for the 16710.
| <span id="bracelet-78240"></span>'''78240''' || Identification caution || || || No 20mm Jubilee fitment established here || || Do not use this entry as evidence for a GMT Jubilee pairing. See the documented 62510H below.
|-
|-
| <span id="bracelet-62510H"></span>'''62510H''' || Jubilee with Oysterclasp, 20mm || 1991–2007 || Jubilee || 455 || GMT-Master || Jubilee link construction with the heavier Oysterclasp body. Sometimes documented as 62510D / 62510M for parallel-era variants on the Rolex bracelet specification sheets; the letter suffix marks a hollow-vs-solid generation.
| <span id="bracelet-62510H"></span>'''62510H''' || Jubilee, 20mm, steel || Listed in Rolex parts sheet, 1985 || Jubilee || 502, 550, 555; 502B on the cited GMT lot || Datejust, GMT-Master || Sheet 322-4 distinguishes steel 62510H from Rolesor 62523H. Phillips records a 62510H with 502B end links on a 1675. That auction pairing does not prove original delivery.
|-
|-
| <span id="bracelet-93250"></span>'''93250''' || Oyster solid link, 20mm (steel / yellow gold) || 1980–1990 || Solid || 501 || Submariner, GMT-Master || Two-tone Rolesor solid link. Replaced by 78363 in the SEL transition.
| <span id="bracelet-93250"></span>'''93250''' || Oyster with solid end links, 20mm, steel || 16610 generation || Solid || 801 on the cited example || Submariner 16610 || Phillips lot 146024 records a steel 16610 with 93250, 801 end links and a DT3 clasp. It is not a two-tone predecessor of 78363.
|-
|-
| <span id="bracelet-78363"></span>'''78363''' || Oyster solid link with SEL, 20mm (steel / yellow gold) || 1991–2000s || Solid || 501, 501B || Daytona, Submariner, GMT-Master || Two-tone SEL successor to 93250. The Daytona Rolesor (16523) bracelet ref through the cutover to 78393. The 78363 → 78393 transition year on the 16523 is not directly attested, and is usually read across from the 16520's 78360 → 78390 cutover.
| <span id="bracelet-78363"></span>'''78363''' || Oyster, 20mm, steel and yellow gold || Five-digit generation || Solid || Hollow end links; check exact fitting || Daytona 16523, GMT-Master || Distinct from the steel Submariner 93250. The later polished-centre Daytona bracelet is 78393; the steel Daytona transition does not establish the Rolesor changeover date.
|-
|-
| <span id="bracelet-8385"></span>'''8385''' || President, 20mm 18k yellow gold || 1970s onward || President || 455 || Oyster Perpetual || Designed for Day-Date 18038. No documented Daytona application — the yellow gold Daytona 16528 shipped on the 78668 and then the 78398.
| <span id="bracelet-8385"></span>'''8385''' || President, 20mm, gold || Vintage Day-Date generation || President || Check the individual bracelet || Day-Date || President end fittings need their own identification; 455 appears in the Rolex sheet for Rolesor Jubilee 62523H.
|-
|-
| <span id="bracelet-78668"></span>'''78668''' || Oyster solid link, 20mm (18k yellow gold) || 1988–~1994 || Solid || 103 || Daytona || The gold Daytona 16528 bracelet through the first half of the run, with a deployant clasp and no flip-lock. Not a gold casting of the steel 78360 and it does not share that part number: Christie’s catalogues ref. 16528 case R985336 with "deployant clasp stamped 78668, endlinks stamped 103", and Antiquorum records 78668 with an M12 clasp on case R985236. Clasp codes observed are M-series, 1988. An inferred "78368" circulated in older scaffolds and is attested nowhere.
| <span id="bracelet-78668"></span>'''78668''' || Oyster solid link, 20mm (18k yellow gold) || 1988–~1994 || Solid || 103 || Daytona || The gold Daytona 16528 bracelet through the first half of the run, with a deployant clasp and no flip-lock. Not a gold casting of the steel 78360 and it does not share that part number: Christie’s catalogues ref. 16528 case R985336 with "deployant clasp stamped 78668, endlinks stamped 103", and Antiquorum records 78668 with an M12 clasp on case R985236. Clasp codes observed are M-series, 1988. An inferred "78368" circulated in older scaffolds and is attested nowhere.
Line 71: Line 71:
| <span id="bracelet-78398"></span>'''78398''' || Oyster solid link, 20mm (18k yellow gold, later run) || ~1995–2000 || Solid || 193 || Daytona || Successor to 78668 on the gold 16528 case. Phillips catalogues ref. 16528 case X435057 with the bracelet "stamped '193' to the endlinks" and the clasp "stamped '78398' and 'T12'". T12 (1995) is the earliest documented 78398 code while 78668 still appears on 1993-era clasps, so the changeover sits in a loose 1993–1995 band rather than on the steel 78360 → 78390 line. That Phillips bracelet post-dates its 1991 X-serial case, a reminder that the clasp code dates the bracelet only.
| <span id="bracelet-78398"></span>'''78398''' || Oyster solid link, 20mm (18k yellow gold, later run) || ~1995–2000 || Solid || 193 || Daytona || Successor to 78668 on the gold 16528 case. Phillips catalogues ref. 16528 case X435057 with the bracelet "stamped '193' to the endlinks" and the clasp "stamped '78398' and 'T12'". T12 (1995) is the earliest documented 78398 code while 78668 still appears on 1993-era clasps, so the changeover sits in a loose 1993–1995 band rather than on the steel 78360 → 78390 line. That Phillips bracelet post-dates its 1991 X-serial case, a reminder that the clasp code dates the bracelet only.
|-
|-
| <span id="bracelet-97200"></span>'''97200''' || Oyster solid link, 20mm (modern Sport-model) || 2003–present || Oyster || integral SEL || Submariner, GMT-Master || Modern Oysterclasp with Easylink across every fitment. Glidelock on Submariner only; the GMT-Master line never adopted Glidelock. The Daytona 116500LN / 126500LN ships on a 97200-derivative Oyster with Easylink only.
| <span id="bracelet-97200"></span>'''97200''' || Oyster, 20mm, steel || 40mm ceramic Submariner generation || Solid || Solid end links || Submariner 116610LN / 116610LV || Glidelock clasp. Phillips lot 232849 documents 97200 on a 116610LN. Other watch families and the later 41mm Submariner use different bracelet references.
|-
|-
| <span id="bracelet-97203"></span>'''97203''' || Oyster solid link, 20mm (steel / yellow gold) || 2003–present || Oyster || integral SEL || Submariner, GMT-Master || Modern Rolesor Sport-model. Easylink on every fitment; Glidelock on Submariner Rolesor variants only.
| <span id="bracelet-97203"></span>'''97203''' || Oyster, 20mm, steel and yellow gold || 40mm ceramic Submariner generation || Solid || Solid end links || Submariner 116613 || Glidelock clasp. Check the exact bracelet number when comparing later 41mm references.
|-
|-
| <span id="bracelet-97208"></span>'''97208''' || Oyster solid link, 20mm (18k yellow gold) || 2003–present || Oyster || integral SEL || Submariner, GMT-Master || Yellow gold modern Sport-model bracelet. Heavier than 97200 by gold density.
| <span id="bracelet-97208"></span>'''97208''' || Oyster, 20mm, yellow gold || 40mm ceramic Submariner generation || Solid || Solid end links || Submariner 116618 || Lepage records bracelet 97208 on its photographed 116618LB.
|-
|-
| <span id="bracelet-97209"></span>'''97209''' || Oyster solid link, 20mm (18k white gold) || 2014–present || Oyster || integral SEL || Submariner, GMT-Master || Premium-tier white gold Sport-model bracelet. Same Oyster three-link geometry as 97200 / 97203 / 97208 in different alloy.
| <span id="bracelet-97209"></span>'''97209''' || Oyster, 20mm, white gold || 40mm ceramic Submariner generation || Solid || Solid end links || Submariner 116619 || Gaston & Sheehan lot 75 records bracelet 97209 on a white-gold 116619.
|}
|}


== End links ==
== End links ==


End links connect the bracelet to the case lugs. Their shape and markings help identify the fitting. Hollow and solid end links differ in construction; inspect the bracelet reference as well as the end-link markings.
<span id="end-link-379"></span><span id="end-link-380B"></span><span id="end-link-381"></span><span id="end-link-451"></span><span id="end-link-471"></span><span id="end-link-501B"></span><span id="end-link-558"></span><span id="end-link-558B"></span><span id="end-link-583"></span><span id="end-link-557B"></span>
End links connect the bracelet to the case lugs. Match their shape and markings to the bracelet and case reference. A letter suffix is not a universal code for a polished finish or solid construction. The table lists documented pairings; it is not an exhaustive compatibility chart.


{| class="wikitable sortable"
{| class="wikitable sortable"
! Ref !! Bracelets it fits !! Case lugs (families / refs) !! SEL or HEL !! Year cutover !! Notes
! Ref !! Bracelet !! Case application !! Construction !! Evidence !! Notes
|-
|-
| <span id="end-link-58"></span>'''58''' || 9315, 7206 || Submariner 6204 / 6205 / 6536 / 6536-1 / 6538; Explorer 6150 / 6350 / 6610 || HEL || late 1950s || Earliest-generation 20mm Sport-model end link.
| <span id="end-link-58"></span>'''58''' || 7206 || Vintage 20mm Oyster cases || Hollow || RolexHaven collector guide || Check the particular case; not a 9315 end link.
|-
|-
| <span id="end-link-60"></span>'''60''' || 9315, 7206 || Submariner 5508 / 5510 / 5512; Explorer 6610 / 1016 || HEL || ~1960 || Second-generation small-crown / early five-digit Sport-model end link.
| <span id="end-link-60"></span>'''60''' || 7206 || Vintage 20mm Oyster cases || Hollow || Collector reference tables || Case-specific fitting needs comparison; not a 9315 end link.
|-
|-
| <span id="end-link-80"></span>'''80''' || 7206 || Submariner 5512 / 5513 / 1680; Explorer 1016 || HEL || ~1969 || Definitive 5513-era 7206 rivet end-link stamp per the Field Manual.
| <span id="end-link-80"></span>'''80''' || 7206 || Submariner and other documented 20mm cases || Hollow || RolexHaven collector guide || Rivet-bracelet fitting; the stamp is not a production-year code.
|-
|-
| <span id="end-link-271"></span>'''271''' || 7205, 7835, 6635 || Daytona 6238 / 6239 / 6240 / 6241 / 6262 / 6263 / 6264 / 6265; Oyster Perpetual 1002 / 1007 / 5500 || HEL || ~early 1980s || The "771" code that appears in some online Daytona tables is a propagated OCR error of "271"; photographed end links only ever stamp 271.
| <span id="end-link-271"></span>'''271''' || 7205, 7835 || 19mm chronograph cases || Hollow || Collector reference tables || Inspect the actual stamp. A reported 771 should not be dismissed as an OCR error without a photograph.
|-
|-
| <span id="end-link-379"></span>'''379''' || 62510H, 78240 || Oyster Perpetual 1601 / 16014 / 16030 || HEL || late 1970s || Jubilee end link for 19mm Datejust 1601 / Air-King fitments. Not documented on Daytona.
| <span id="end-link-380"></span>'''380''' || 9315, 7836 || 20mm cases; fitting varies || Hollow || Rolex sheet 321-6, 1985 || Listed with the folded-link 9315; the sheet also identifies shared 7836 parts.
|-
|-
| <span id="end-link-380"></span>'''380''' || 7836, 78350 || Submariner 5512 / 5513 / 1680; GMT-Master 1675; Explorer 1016 / 1655 || HEL || ~1976 || Folded-bracelet end link for the 20mm Sport-model line. Predates the solid 78360 / 503 family.
| <span id="end-link-455"></span>'''455''' || 62523H || Rolesor Jubilee applications || Hollow || Rolex sheet 322-4, 1985 || The sheet lists 455 with Rolesor 62523H, not steel 62510H or President 8385.
|-
|-
| <span id="end-link-380B"></span>'''380B''' || 7836 || Submariner 5513 / 1680 || HEL || ~1976 || "B" suffix denotes the polished-middle variant on the late folded generation. Rarely documented.
| <span id="end-link-501"></span>'''501''' || 93150 || Case application requires a separate source || Hollow || Rolex sheet 323-3, 1985 || Listed among steel 93150 end links. The number is not a universal two-tone designation.
|-
|-
| <span id="end-link-381"></span>'''381''' || 7836 || Oyster Perpetual 1601 / 16014 || HEL || ~1977 || Datejust / Oyster Perpetual 36mm folded end link.
| <span id="end-link-502B"></span>'''502B''' || 62510H || GMT-Master 1675 in the cited lot || Hollow || Phillips Geneva 2018, lot 19 || Recorded on a Jubilee bracelet. The lot also has a 2005 service guarantee; original bracelet delivery is not established.
|-
|-
| <span id="end-link-451"></span>'''451''' || 78240 || Oyster Perpetual 68273 || HEL || 1980s || Documented on ladies' President / Datejust bracelets. Not documented on Daytona.
| <span id="end-link-503"></span>'''503''' || 78360 || Daytona 16520 || Hollow || Blackbird Watch Manual; Field Manual || Brushed-bracelet fitting.
|-
|-
| <span id="end-link-455"></span>'''455''' || 78240, 62510H, 8385 || GMT-Master 16710 / 16700; Oyster Perpetual 16013 / 18038 || HEL || 1980s–1990s || Jubilee / President end link cross-fitted across Sport-model Jubilee and Day-Date / Datejust 36mm.
| <span id="end-link-503B"></span>'''503B''' || 78390 || Daytona 16520 || Hollow || Blackbird Watch Manual; Field Manual || Polished-centre bracelet fitting. Do not treat it as the solid end link of the 78390A.
|-
|-
| <span id="end-link-471"></span>'''471''' || 78240 || Oyster Perpetual 16030 / 16013 || HEL || 1980s || Datejust 16030 / 16013-era end link. Not documented on Daytona.
| <span id="end-link-571"></span>'''571''' || 78350-19 || 19mm Daytona applications || Hollow || Rolex sheet 322-8, 1985 || The parts sheet establishes the bracelet/end-link pairing; an individual case needs its own fitment evidence.
|-
|-
| <span id="end-link-501"></span>'''501''' || 78363, 93250 || Daytona 16523; Submariner 16613 / 16803; GMT-Master 16713 || HEL || ~1991 || Two-tone end link family. Pairs with 78363 (steel + yellow gold) and 93250 across the Sport-model Rolesor line.
| <span id="end-link-580"></span>'''580''' || 93150; also 78360 in collector tables || Submariner; other 20mm applications vary || Hollow || Rolex sheet 323-3; RolexHaven || A solid-link bracelet can still have hollow end links.
|-
|-
| <span id="end-link-501B"></span>'''501B''' || 78363, 78490 || Daytona 116520 / 16523; Submariner 16610 / 16613 || SEL || ~2000 || B suffix marks the polished-middle SEL variant. Pairs with 78490 on the steel 116520; with 78363 on the Rolesor 16523.
| <span id="end-link-585"></span>'''585''' || 93150 || Sea-Dweller || Hollow || Rolex sheet 323-3; RolexHaven || The sheet lists the part; RolexHaven identifies the Sea-Dweller application.
|-
|-
| <span id="end-link-502B"></span>'''502B''' || 78490 || Submariner 16610LV || SEL || ~2003 || "Kermit" 16610LV-era SEL end link variant. Rarely documented.
| <span id="end-link-integral-modern"></span>'''integral-modern''' || Bracelet-specific || Match the exact watch and bracelet references || Solid || Modern reference specifications || Solid end links are a construction type, not a universal part number. Do not transfer a 40mm Submariner fitting to a 41mm watch from its family name alone.
|-
|-
| <span id="end-link-503"></span>'''503''' || 78360 || Daytona 16520 || HEL || ~1993 || Full matte (no polished middle); pairs with 78360 on the Daytona 16520 first generation.
| <span id="end-link-57"></span>'''57''' || Vintage 19mm Oyster || Air-King 5500 in the cited lot || Hollow || Phillips Geneva 2016, lot 22 || The catalogue records both 57 and 357 markings on one bracelet. This does not establish a universal transition date.
|-
|-
| <span id="end-link-503B"></span>'''503B''' || 78390, 78390A || Daytona 16520 || HEL || ~1997 || Polished-middle variant. Pairs with 78390 on the polished-centre Daytona 16520. The 78390A SEL bridge generation reuses the 503B end-link family number.
| <span id="end-link-357"></span>'''357''' || Vintage 19mm Oyster || Air-King 5500 in the cited lot || Hollow || Phillips Geneva 2016, lot 22 || The cited Air-King has 19mm lugs; the Explorer 1016 has 20mm lugs.
|-
|-
| <span id="end-link-558"></span>'''558''' || 78690, 78790 || Explorer 14270 / 114270 / 16570 || HEL || ~1998 || Explorer 14270-era end link. The Daytona-vs-Explorer confusion on the 78690 bracelet ref hinges on this end-link family.
| <span id="end-link-557"></span>'''557''' || 78350-19 || 19mm Air-King applications || Hollow || Rolex sheet 322-8, 1985 || The sheet establishes the bracelet pairing. It does not establish a change to solid end links at the 14000 launch.
|-
| <span id="end-link-558B"></span>'''558B''' || 78690 || Explorer 114270 || SEL || ~2001 || Polished-middle SEL Explorer end link.
|-
| <span id="end-link-571"></span>'''571''' || 78350 || Daytona 6263 / 6265 / 6240 / 6241 || HEL || ~early 1980s || Documented as the 78350 end-link stamp.
|-
| <span id="end-link-580"></span>'''580''' || 93150, 78360 || Submariner 5512 / 5513 / 1680 / 16800 / 168000 / 16610; Explorer 1016; GMT-Master 1675 / 16750 || HEL || ~1990 || Sport-model 20mm solid-link end link, the 93150 generation. Cross-fitted across Submariner / GMT / Explorer 20mm cases. Not documented as Daytona OE.
|-
| <span id="end-link-583"></span>'''583''' || 93150 || Oyster Perpetual 18038 / 18238 || HEL || ~1985 || Likely a Day-Date / Datejust end link, though rarely documented.
|-
| <span id="end-link-585"></span>'''585''' || 93150 || Submariner 16610 / 16800 / 168000 || HEL || ~1990 || The 580 / 585 pair forms the Sport-model SEL transition end-link family.
|-
| <span id="end-link-integral-modern"></span>'''integral SEL''' || 97200, 97203, 97208, 97209 || Submariner 116610LN / 116610LV / 126610LN / 126610LV / 126613LB / 126613LN / 126618LN; GMT-Master 116710LN / 116710BLNR / 126710BLNR / 126710BLRO / 126713GRNR / 126718GRNR / 126719BLRO || SEL || 2003 onward || Modern Sport-model end-links are integral to the first link of the bracelet and not separable. No printed end-link ref number; the bracelet ref carries the full SKU.
|-
| <span id="end-link-57"></span>'''57''' || 6635 / 7205 || Air-King 5500 (1957–c.1965), Oyster Perpetual 1002 (early) || HEL || c.1965 (transition to 357) || 19mm rivet end-link for the early Air-King line. Sometimes co-stamped with 357 on transitional bracelets. Phillips Geneva FOUR 2016 lot 22 documents a 1965 5500 with both 57 and 357 stampings present
|-
| <span id="end-link-357"></span>'''357''' || 7205 / 7835 || Air-King 5500 (c.1965–c.1976), Oyster Perpetual 1002, Explorer 1016 (mid-run) || HEL || c.1976 (transition to 557) || 19mm folded-link end-link succeeding the 57. Long-run fitment across the Cal 1520 era 5500 and the mid-production 1016 Explorer
|-
| <span id="end-link-557"></span>'''557''' || 78350 || Air-King 5500 (c.1976–1989), Oyster Perpetual 1002 (late) || HEL || c.1989 (replaced by integrated SEL on 14000) || 19mm solid-link end-link for late-run Air-King. The 5500's final factory bracelet configuration
|-
| <span id="end-link-557B"></span>'''557B''' || 78350 || Air-King 5500 (late 1980s) || HEL || c.1989 || B-suffix variant of 557 with refined tolerances. Late-1980s 5500 production
|}
|}


Line 151: Line 132:
! Generation !! Years !! Refs that used it !! Distinguishing features
! Generation !! Years !! Refs that used it !! Distinguishing features
|-
|-
| <span id="clasp-folding-clasp-vintage"></span>Folding clasp (Gay Frères / Rolex stamped) || 1953–1969 || 7205, 7206, 7835, 7836, 9315, 6635 || Folded steel blade, no flip-lock. Big Logo (Gay Frères) on early small-crown and 6238-era; Small Logo (Rolex coronet) from 1958.
| <span id="clasp-folding-clasp-vintage"></span>Vintage folding clasp || Reference-dependent || Rivet and folded Oyster bracelets || Stamped folding blades. Logo and date-stamp variations need comparison with the same bracelet type.
|-
|-
| <span id="clasp-oysterlock-vintage"></span>Oysterlock folded clasp || 1976–~1997 || 78350, 78360, 78390, 93150, 93250 || Folded blade with Oysterlock safety latch; short flip-lock extension introduced ~1983 on Sport models, ~1993 on the Daytona 16520. Single-letter date code on blade (A=1976 onward).
| <span id="clasp-oysterlock-vintage"></span>Vintage safety clasp || Reference-dependent || 93150; later Daytona bracelet variants || The extra safety latch distinguishes it from a plain folding clasp. Not every 78350 or 78360 has one.
|-
|-
| <span id="clasp-oysterlock-modern"></span>Oysterclasp with Easylink (modern) || 2002–present || 78363, 78490, 97200, 97203, 97208, 97209 || Solid machined Oysterclasp body. Easylink 5mm extension lever inside the clasp body. Milled crown stamp on inner clasp from ~2010 on late 116520 and modern Sport-model production.
| <span id="clasp-oysterlock-modern"></span>Modern Oysterlock / Oysterclasp || Reference-dependent || Modern reference-specific bracelets || Oysterlock names a safety clasp; Oysterclasp does not necessarily have that extra latch. Identify the extension mechanism separately.
|-
|-
| <span id="clasp-easylink"></span>Easylink 5mm comfort extension || 2002–present || 78363, 78490, 97200, 97203, 97208, 97209 || Internal lever and keeper inside the Oysterclasp body that drops a 5mm extension link without tools. Standard on every modern Sport-model bracelet and the modern Daytona.
| <span id="clasp-easylink"></span>Easylink || Reference-dependent || Selected Oyster bracelets || A folding comfort link adds approximately 5mm. It is not fitted to every modern sports bracelet.
|-
|-
| <span id="clasp-glidelock"></span>Glidelock micro-extension || 2008–present || 97200, 97203, 97208, 97209 (Submariner only) || Toothed track inside the clasp body, ~20mm of fine adjustment in 2mm steps without tools. Submariner-line only; never adopted on Daytona, GMT-Master, Explorer, or Datejust. The key differentiator between the modern Submariner Oyster and the modern Daytona / GMT-Master Oyster.
| <span id="clasp-glidelock"></span>Glidelock || Reference-dependent || Submariner; selected Oysterflex references || A sliding adjustment system. The Submariner version offers about 20mm in 2mm steps; the current Daytona 126515LN also uses Glidelock with Oysterflex.
|}
|}


Daytona clasp generations follow the bracelet timeline closely. Big Logo Gay Frères belongs to the earliest 6239 and 6240 period, Small Logo runs through the late manual-wind era, Oysterlock covers the 16520 years, and the modern Oysterclasp starts with the 116520. Easylink arrives around 2002.
Daytona clasp changes depend on the bracelet generation. Inspect the bracelet number, folding blade and safety latch together; a logo alone does not establish the year.


=== Date-code key ===
=== Date-code key ===


The table below is a collector dating guide, not a Rolex-issued production record. Treat its years as estimates and check the markings against documented examples of the same clasp.
The dates below follow Millenary Watches' collector chart, also reproduced in ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual''. They are estimates, not Rolex production records. Some mid-1990s letters appear against more than one year. A standalone S can be a 1994 date code; do not call a clasp a service replacement from that letter alone.


{| class="wikitable sortable"
{| class="wikitable sortable"
Line 202: Line 183:
Do not read a clasp letter against the case-serial chart. The two systems use some of the same letters for different periods. Later randomized clasp codes have no public year mapping; the bracelet reference and clasp construction remain useful for identification.
Do not read a clasp letter against the case-serial chart. The two systems use some of the same letters for different periods. Later randomized clasp codes have no public year mapping; the bracelet reference and clasp construction remain useful for identification.


Before 1976 there is no letter code. The folding clasps of the rivet and folded eras carry a quarter-and-year stamp inside the blade: a Roman numeral for the quarter (I, II, III, IV), a dot, then two digits for the year, so <code>I.65</code> reads as the first quarter of 1965 and <code>IV.71</code> the fourth quarter of 1971.
Earlier clasps commonly use quarter-and-year stamps. For example, <code>I.65</code> reads as the first quarter of 1965. Stamp formats vary; compare the complete marking with documented examples of the same clasp.


== Link construction types ==
== Link construction types ==
Line 211: Line 192:
! Style !! Years !! Identifying features !! Bracelet refs using
! Style !! Years !! Identifying features !! Bracelet refs using
|-
|-
| <span id="link-type-rivet"></span>'''Rivet (hollow)''' || 1940s–1969 || Hollow folded steel links joined with visible rivet heads on the link sides; lighter gauge than later folded or solid generations. || 6635, 7205, 7206, 9315
| <span id="link-type-rivet"></span>'''Rivet''' || Vintage || Rivet heads are visible along the sides. Stretch and fixed-link versions need separate identification. || 6635, 7205, 7206
|-
|-
| <span id="link-type-folded"></span>'''Folded (hollow non-rivet)''' || 1969–1980s || Folded steel construction with no exposed rivet heads; polished outer / brushed centre links visible on most variants; lighter on the wrist than solid-link successors. || 7835, 7836, 78350
| <span id="link-type-folded"></span>'''Folded''' || Vintage || Folded sheet-metal links without exposed side rivets. || 7835, 7836, 9315
|-
|-
| <span id="link-type-solid"></span>'''Solid (machined or stamped solid)''' || 1976–present || Solid steel link bodies, no folded or rivet construction; brushed throughout (78360) or brushed outer / polished centre (78390 onward); SEL introduction ~1997 on Sport models is a sub-generation. || 78360, 78363, 78390, 78390A, 78490, 78690, 78790, 93150, 93250, 97200, 97203, 97208, 97209
| <span id="link-type-solid"></span>'''Solid link''' || Reference-dependent || Solid link bodies; end links can still be hollow. Check centre-link construction separately on precious-metal and Rolesor variants. || 78350, 78360, 78390, 93150, 93250 and later Oyster references
|-
|-
| <span id="link-type-jubilee"></span>'''Jubilee (five-link)''' || 1945–present || Five-link construction — three smaller polished centre links flanked by two larger brushed outer links; smoother on the wrist than three-link Oyster. || 78240, 62510H
| <span id="link-type-jubilee"></span>'''Jubilee''' || From 1945 || Five-piece link design. Construction varies by generation. || 62510H; Rolesor 62523H
|-
|-
| <span id="link-type-oyster"></span>'''Oyster (three-link flat)''' || 1947–present || Three-link construction with flat brushed outer links and a narrower centre; the default Sport-model bracelet across every era from the 1950s on. Modern Oyster carries integral SEL and a machined clasp body. || 97200, 97203, 97208, 97209
| <span id="link-type-oyster"></span>'''Oyster''' || Reference-dependent || Three-piece link design, made in riveted, folded and solid-link versions. || 7206, 7836, 78360, 97200 and others
|-
|-
| <span id="link-type-president"></span>'''President (three-piece semi-circular)''' || 1956–present || Three-piece links with semi-circular polished outer profile; always solid precious metal (yellow, white, or rose gold; platinum). || 8385
| <span id="link-type-president"></span>'''President''' || From 1956 || Three-piece links with a rounded profile, in gold or platinum. Precious-metal content does not mean every vintage link is solid throughout. || 8385 and later President references
|-
|-
| <span id="link-type-pearlmaster"></span>'''Pearlmaster (five-piece rounded)''' || 1992–present || Five-piece links with a rounded profile, gem-set centre and outer; gem-set Datejust / Pearlmaster fitment only. || (none in scope)
| <span id="link-type-pearlmaster"></span>'''Pearlmaster''' || From 1992 || Five-piece rounded-link design; gem setting depends on the version. || Reference-specific
|-
|-
| <span id="link-type-oysterflex"></span>'''Oysterflex (elastomer over titanium blade)''' || 2015–present || Black FKM elastomer overmolded over a flexible titanium / nickel alloy blade; looks like a rubber strap, mechanically a bracelet. Oysterclasp with Glidelock on Yacht-Master variants; Oysterclasp with Easylink on the ceramic Daytona 116515LN / 116519LN and the white-gold 126506. || (no 7-series ref number; tracked by case reference)
| <span id="link-type-oysterflex"></span>'''Oysterflex''' || From 2015 || Elastomer over flexible metal blades. The extension system depends on the watch: Rolex specifies Glidelock for the current Daytona 126515LN. || Reference-specific
|}
|}


== Sources ==
== Sources ==


* [https://www.vintagewatchstraps.com/ vintagewatchstraps.com (Boettcher)] — primary source for Oyster case-maker history, Wilsdorf brand-universe research, and bracelet-evolution analysis referenced throughout this page.
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6202981 Christie's: 16528 with bracelet 78668]
* [https://millenarywatches.com/bracelet-and-clasp-codes/ Millenary Watches — Bracelet and Clasp Codes: Complete Resource Guide] — date-code key A=1976 → CP=2011 plus Rolex-published bracelet specification sheets reproduced inline.
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-16528-daytona-lot-340-192 Antiquorum: 16528 with bracelet 78668]
* [https://chrono-shop.net/en/blog/rolex-watch-bracelet-references-numbers--n13 chrono-shop.net — Rolex watch bracelet references numbers] — model-by-model bracelet / end-link compatibility list (contains OCR typos: "73850" for "78350", "771" for "271").
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080219/272 Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo: 16528 with bracelet 78398]
* [https://watch-collector.co.uk/rolex-bracelet-end-link-codes/ watch-collector.co.uk — Rolex Bracelet End Link Codes] — same matrix as chrono-shop in cleaner table form; confirms 78490 (not 78690) as the steel 116520 bracelet.
 
* [https://rolexhaven.com/bracelets.html RolexHaven.com — Sport-model bracelet and end-link reference] — Submariner / GMT / Explorer / Sea-Dweller end-link code table.
 
* [https://www.blackbird-watchmanual.com/manual/icons/the-rolex-daytona-reference-16520/ Blackbird Watch Manual — The Rolex Daytona Reference 16520] — independent confirmation of the 78360 → 78390 → 78390A bracelet progression on the 16520.
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-116613-lot-293-160 Antiquorum New York 2015, lot 160]: 116613 with bracelet 97203 and Glidelock.
* ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' (Colin White) — bracelet / end-link / clasp tables for every five-digit reference.
* [https://www.lepage.fr/fr/23259-montre-rolex-submariner-date-or-jaune-116618lb-automatique-40-mm-stickee-116618lb.html Lepage: photographed 116618LB], bracelet 97208; dealer observation.
* [https://www.txauction.com/auctions/31081/lot/48230-lot-75 Gaston & Sheehan, lot 75]: 116619 with bracelet 97209.
 
 
* [https://millenarywatches.com/bracelet-and-clasp-codes/ Millenary Watches: bracelet and clasp codes], including reproduced Rolex parts sheets 321-6 (9315), 322-8 (78350), 323-3 (93150) and 322-4 (62510H), dated 1985. The sheets identify parts; the site's dating chart is a collector compilation.
* [https://rolexhaven.com/bracelets.html RolexHaven: bracelet and end-link notes]. Collector guide, used for scoped case applications.
* [https://www.blackbird-watchmanual.com/manual/icons/the-rolex-daytona-reference-16520/ Blackbird Watch Manual: Daytona 16520]. Bracelet progression.
* Colin White, ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'', bracelet and clasp tables. Individual auction configurations can include later replacements.
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/202605 Phillips: 116520 with bracelet 78490].
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/HK080422/8012 Phillips: 114270 with bracelet 78690].
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/146024 Phillips: 16610 with bracelet 93250 and end links 801].
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080218/19 Phillips: 1675 with Jubilee 62510H and end links 502B].
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/232849 Phillips: 116610LN with bracelet 97200].
* [https://www.rolex.com/en-us/watches/cosmograph-daytona/m126515ln-0010 Rolex: Daytona 126515LN], Oysterflex and Glidelock specification.


[[Category:Reference]]
[[Category:Reference]]
[[Category:Bracelets]]
[[Category:Bracelets]]

Revision as of 02:34, 13 September 2026


Main Page › Bracelets, End Links, Clasps, Link Types

This guide identifies Oyster, Jubilee and President bracelets, their end links and clasp markings. Use it to compare a bracelet with the documented fittings for a watch reference.

A clasp code dates the bracelet, not the watch head; the case carries its own serial-number dating. A documented pairing does not establish that a particular bracelet was delivered with a particular watch.

Quick jump

Bracelets by reference

Dates below describe a period or a dated source, not a guaranteed production range. Rolex parts sheets identify components; auction catalogues record the bracelet present when a watch was offered. Neither alone proves what was fitted at the original sale.

Ref Name Period / evidence Link type End links Documented applications Notes
6635 Oyster stretch rivet, 19mm Vintage Stretch rivet 57; check individual fitting Chronographs, Air-King The links expand; the 7205 uses fixed links.
7205 Oyster rivet, 19mm Vintage Rivet 271; 57 / 357 on documented Air-Kings Daytona, Air-King The 7206 is the 20mm counterpart. A US-made C&I bracelet requires its own identification; lack of a Swiss bracelet number does not by itself make it an aftermarket part.
7206 Oyster rivet, 20mm Vintage Rivet 58, 60, 80; application varies Submariner, GMT-Master, Explorer Compare end-link shape and case reference. The number alone does not establish original delivery.
9315 Oyster folded link, 20mm Listed in Rolex parts sheet, 1985 Folded 280 / 285 fixed; 380 / 385 removable Submariner, Sea-Dweller Rolex sheet 321-6 shows the folded-link construction and alternative end fittings.
7835 Oyster folded link, 19mm Vintage Folded 271; 357 on documented Air-Kings Daytona, Air-King For the 20mm Explorer 1016, see the wider bracelet references. Read the actual end-link stamp: a reported 771 needs photographic examination.
7836 Oyster folded link, 20mm Vintage; parts shared in 1985 sheet Folded 380 GMT-Master, Explorer Rolex sheet 321-6 identifies parts shared with the 9315. Sharing parts does not make the two bracelet references interchangeable.
78350 Oyster solid link, 19mm Listed in Rolex parts sheet, 1985 Solid 557, 571 Daytona, Air-King Sheet 322-8 specifies the 78350-19 and its steel end links. A separate 17mm version exists.
78360 Oyster solid link, 20mm 1970s onward; reference-dependent Solid 503 on 16520; 580 on other documented fittings Daytona, GMT-Master, Explorer The Daytona later changed to polished-centre bracelets. That change does not date the end of all 78360 production.
78390 Oyster solid link, 20mm Middle part of the 16520 run Solid 503B Daytona Polished centre links distinguish it from the brushed 78360. The Blackbird Watch Manual describes the 16520 progression.
78390A Oyster solid link with solid end links, 20mm Late 16520 production Solid Solid end links Daytona Distinguish the solid end links from the separate hollow 503B fittings of the 78390.
78490 Oyster with solid end links, 20mm 116520 generation Solid Solid end links Daytona 116520 Phillips lot 202605 records a 116520 with a clasp stamped 78490 and an April 2006 guarantee. The 78690 belongs to a different documented application.
78690 Oyster with solid end links, 20mm 114270 generation Solid Solid end links Explorer 114270 Phillips Hong Kong 2022 lot 8012 records 78690 on a 114270 with a November 2010 guarantee.
78790 Oyster, 20mm 1990s–2000s; reference-dependent Solid Hollow end links; check watch reference GMT-Master, Explorer Distinguish 78790 from 78790A, the version with solid end links.
93150 Oyster solid link, 20mm Listed in 1985; continued into later references Solid 501, 580, 585, 593 in the 1985 sheet Submariner, Sea-Dweller Rolex sheet 323-3 separates steel 93150 fittings from Rolesor 93153 fittings. It does not establish a universal case pairing or a 1990 end date.
78240 Identification caution No 20mm Jubilee fitment established here Do not use this entry as evidence for a GMT Jubilee pairing. See the documented 62510H below.
62510H Jubilee, 20mm, steel Listed in Rolex parts sheet, 1985 Jubilee 502, 550, 555; 502B on the cited GMT lot Datejust, GMT-Master Sheet 322-4 distinguishes steel 62510H from Rolesor 62523H. Phillips records a 62510H with 502B end links on a 1675. That auction pairing does not prove original delivery.
93250 Oyster with solid end links, 20mm, steel 16610 generation Solid 801 on the cited example Submariner 16610 Phillips lot 146024 records a steel 16610 with 93250, 801 end links and a DT3 clasp. It is not a two-tone predecessor of 78363.
78363 Oyster, 20mm, steel and yellow gold Five-digit generation Solid Hollow end links; check exact fitting Daytona 16523, GMT-Master Distinct from the steel Submariner 93250. The later polished-centre Daytona bracelet is 78393; the steel Daytona transition does not establish the Rolesor changeover date.
8385 President, 20mm, gold Vintage Day-Date generation President Check the individual bracelet Day-Date President end fittings need their own identification; 455 appears in the Rolex sheet for Rolesor Jubilee 62523H.
78668 Oyster solid link, 20mm (18k yellow gold) 1988–~1994 Solid 103 Daytona The gold Daytona 16528 bracelet through the first half of the run, with a deployant clasp and no flip-lock. Not a gold casting of the steel 78360 and it does not share that part number: Christie’s catalogues ref. 16528 case R985336 with "deployant clasp stamped 78668, endlinks stamped 103", and Antiquorum records 78668 with an M12 clasp on case R985236. Clasp codes observed are M-series, 1988. An inferred "78368" circulated in older scaffolds and is attested nowhere.
78398 Oyster solid link, 20mm (18k yellow gold, later run) ~1995–2000 Solid 193 Daytona Successor to 78668 on the gold 16528 case. Phillips catalogues ref. 16528 case X435057 with the bracelet "stamped '193' to the endlinks" and the clasp "stamped '78398' and 'T12'". T12 (1995) is the earliest documented 78398 code while 78668 still appears on 1993-era clasps, so the changeover sits in a loose 1993–1995 band rather than on the steel 78360 → 78390 line. That Phillips bracelet post-dates its 1991 X-serial case, a reminder that the clasp code dates the bracelet only.
97200 Oyster, 20mm, steel 40mm ceramic Submariner generation Solid Solid end links Submariner 116610LN / 116610LV Glidelock clasp. Phillips lot 232849 documents 97200 on a 116610LN. Other watch families and the later 41mm Submariner use different bracelet references.
97203 Oyster, 20mm, steel and yellow gold 40mm ceramic Submariner generation Solid Solid end links Submariner 116613 Glidelock clasp. Check the exact bracelet number when comparing later 41mm references.
97208 Oyster, 20mm, yellow gold 40mm ceramic Submariner generation Solid Solid end links Submariner 116618 Lepage records bracelet 97208 on its photographed 116618LB.
97209 Oyster, 20mm, white gold 40mm ceramic Submariner generation Solid Solid end links Submariner 116619 Gaston & Sheehan lot 75 records bracelet 97209 on a white-gold 116619.

End links

End links connect the bracelet to the case lugs. Match their shape and markings to the bracelet and case reference. A letter suffix is not a universal code for a polished finish or solid construction. The table lists documented pairings; it is not an exhaustive compatibility chart.

Ref Bracelet Case application Construction Evidence Notes
58 7206 Vintage 20mm Oyster cases Hollow RolexHaven collector guide Check the particular case; not a 9315 end link.
60 7206 Vintage 20mm Oyster cases Hollow Collector reference tables Case-specific fitting needs comparison; not a 9315 end link.
80 7206 Submariner and other documented 20mm cases Hollow RolexHaven collector guide Rivet-bracelet fitting; the stamp is not a production-year code.
271 7205, 7835 19mm chronograph cases Hollow Collector reference tables Inspect the actual stamp. A reported 771 should not be dismissed as an OCR error without a photograph.
380 9315, 7836 20mm cases; fitting varies Hollow Rolex sheet 321-6, 1985 Listed with the folded-link 9315; the sheet also identifies shared 7836 parts.
455 62523H Rolesor Jubilee applications Hollow Rolex sheet 322-4, 1985 The sheet lists 455 with Rolesor 62523H, not steel 62510H or President 8385.
501 93150 Case application requires a separate source Hollow Rolex sheet 323-3, 1985 Listed among steel 93150 end links. The number is not a universal two-tone designation.
502B 62510H GMT-Master 1675 in the cited lot Hollow Phillips Geneva 2018, lot 19 Recorded on a Jubilee bracelet. The lot also has a 2005 service guarantee; original bracelet delivery is not established.
503 78360 Daytona 16520 Hollow Blackbird Watch Manual; Field Manual Brushed-bracelet fitting.
503B 78390 Daytona 16520 Hollow Blackbird Watch Manual; Field Manual Polished-centre bracelet fitting. Do not treat it as the solid end link of the 78390A.
571 78350-19 19mm Daytona applications Hollow Rolex sheet 322-8, 1985 The parts sheet establishes the bracelet/end-link pairing; an individual case needs its own fitment evidence.
580 93150; also 78360 in collector tables Submariner; other 20mm applications vary Hollow Rolex sheet 323-3; RolexHaven A solid-link bracelet can still have hollow end links.
585 93150 Sea-Dweller Hollow Rolex sheet 323-3; RolexHaven The sheet lists the part; RolexHaven identifies the Sea-Dweller application.
integral-modern Bracelet-specific Match the exact watch and bracelet references Solid Modern reference specifications Solid end links are a construction type, not a universal part number. Do not transfer a 40mm Submariner fitting to a 41mm watch from its family name alone.
57 Vintage 19mm Oyster Air-King 5500 in the cited lot Hollow Phillips Geneva 2016, lot 22 The catalogue records both 57 and 357 markings on one bracelet. This does not establish a universal transition date.
357 Vintage 19mm Oyster Air-King 5500 in the cited lot Hollow Phillips Geneva 2016, lot 22 The cited Air-King has 19mm lugs; the Explorer 1016 has 20mm lugs.
557 78350-19 19mm Air-King applications Hollow Rolex sheet 322-8, 1985 The sheet establishes the bracelet pairing. It does not establish a change to solid end links at the 14000 launch.

Clasps

Clasp markings use a separate dating system from case serial numbers. Identify the clasp generation before reading its stamp against a date table.

Generation overview

Generation Years Refs that used it Distinguishing features
Vintage folding clasp Reference-dependent Rivet and folded Oyster bracelets Stamped folding blades. Logo and date-stamp variations need comparison with the same bracelet type.
Vintage safety clasp Reference-dependent 93150; later Daytona bracelet variants The extra safety latch distinguishes it from a plain folding clasp. Not every 78350 or 78360 has one.
Modern Oysterlock / Oysterclasp Reference-dependent Modern reference-specific bracelets Oysterlock names a safety clasp; Oysterclasp does not necessarily have that extra latch. Identify the extension mechanism separately.
Easylink Reference-dependent Selected Oyster bracelets A folding comfort link adds approximately 5mm. It is not fitted to every modern sports bracelet.
Glidelock Reference-dependent Submariner; selected Oysterflex references A sliding adjustment system. The Submariner version offers about 20mm in 2mm steps; the current Daytona 126515LN also uses Glidelock with Oysterflex.

Daytona clasp changes depend on the bracelet generation. Inspect the bracelet number, folding blade and safety latch together; a logo alone does not establish the year.

Date-code key

The dates below follow Millenary Watches' collector chart, also reproduced in The Vintage Rolex Field Manual. They are estimates, not Rolex production records. Some mid-1990s letters appear against more than one year. A standalone S can be a 1994 date code; do not call a clasp a service replacement from that letter alone.

Code Year Code Year Code Year
A 1976 M 1988 DT 2002
B 1977 N 1989 AD 2003
C 1978 O 1990 CL 2004
D 1979 P 1991 MA 2005
E 1980 Q 1992 OP 2006
F 1981 R 1993 EO 2007
G 1982 S 1994 PJ 2008
H 1983 T or W 1995 LT 2009
I 1984 U or V 1996 RS 2010
J 1985 U or Z 1997 CP 2011
K 1986 W or Z 1998 (random) 2011 onward
L 1987 X 1999
AB 2000
DE 2001

Do not read a clasp letter against the case-serial chart. The two systems use some of the same letters for different periods. Later randomized clasp codes have no public year mapping; the bracelet reference and clasp construction remain useful for identification.

Earlier clasps commonly use quarter-and-year stamps. For example, I.65 reads as the first quarter of 1965. Stamp formats vary; compare the complete marking with documented examples of the same clasp.

Link construction types

Rivet, folded and solid describe link construction. Oyster, Jubilee and President describe bracelet designs. Keep the two distinctions separate when identifying a bracelet; an Oyster bracelet can use different construction depending on its period.

Style Years Identifying features Bracelet refs using
Rivet Vintage Rivet heads are visible along the sides. Stretch and fixed-link versions need separate identification. 6635, 7205, 7206
Folded Vintage Folded sheet-metal links without exposed side rivets. 7835, 7836, 9315
Solid link Reference-dependent Solid link bodies; end links can still be hollow. Check centre-link construction separately on precious-metal and Rolesor variants. 78350, 78360, 78390, 93150, 93250 and later Oyster references
Jubilee From 1945 Five-piece link design. Construction varies by generation. 62510H; Rolesor 62523H
Oyster Reference-dependent Three-piece link design, made in riveted, folded and solid-link versions. 7206, 7836, 78360, 97200 and others
President From 1956 Three-piece links with a rounded profile, in gold or platinum. Precious-metal content does not mean every vintage link is solid throughout. 8385 and later President references
Pearlmaster From 1992 Five-piece rounded-link design; gem setting depends on the version. Reference-specific
Oysterflex From 2015 Elastomer over flexible metal blades. The extension system depends on the watch: Rolex specifies Glidelock for the current Daytona 126515LN. Reference-specific

Sources