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Deep correctness, grounding, image and anti-slop audit: qualify 16718 chronology, caliber, dial, bezel, bracelet, provenance and market claims.
Deep audit: ground 16718 chronology, caliber, dials, bracelets, and market claims
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{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex 16718 GMT-Master II}}
{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex 16718 GMT-Master II}}
{{#seo:
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex GMT-Master 16718 (1989–2005) : Production & Dial Guide | Rolexopedia
|title=Rolex GMT-Master II 16718, all-yellow-gold GMT
|description=The 16718 is the all-yellow-gold GMT-Master II of 1989 to 2005. Caliber 3185 with rare late cal 3186, four documented dials (black, brown sunburst, white, champagne / silver serti), black or brown ("rootbeer") aluminium bezel, 18K Oyster or Jubilee bracelet.
|description=The Rolex 16718 is the all-yellow-gold GMT-Master II from the 16710 generation, with caliber 3185, aluminium bezel inserts, and Oyster or Jubilee bracelet options.
|keywords=Rolex, 16718, GMT-Master II, yellow gold, caliber 3185, serti dial, rootbeer
|keywords=Rolex, 16718, GMT-Master II, yellow gold, caliber 3185, serti dial, rootbeer
|image=Ref 16718 hero.webp
|image=Ref 16718 hero.webp
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</div>
</div>


The 16718 is the all-gold member of the 16710 generation, the 18K case-and-bracelet sister to the steel [[Reference:16710|16710]] and the two-tone [[Reference:16713|16713]]. Production is generally dated from 1989 to about 2005, when the 116718LN replaced it with a Cerachrom bezel. Caliber 3185, the 40mm Oyster case, and the independently adjustable local-hour GMT mechanism match the period 16710 architecture. Catalogues document black, brown sunburst, white, and gem-set dials.
The 16718 is the all-yellow-gold branch of the 16710 generation, alongside the steel [[Reference:16710|16710]] and two-tone [[Reference:16713|16713]]. Sources date the five-digit gold reference to the late 1980s or early 1990s and place its replacement by the 116718LN in 2005. It uses caliber 3185 for most of the run, a 40mm Oyster case, and the independent-hour GMT mechanism. Documented dials include black, brown, white, and gem-set configurations.


<span id="core-facts"></span>
<span id="core-facts"></span>
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|-
|-
| production
| production
| generally 1989 to about 2005; final delivery dates can vary by source
| 1989 to approximately 2005. Replaced by the 116718LN at Baselworld 2005 alongside the GMT-Master 50th-anniversary green-dial release. The "2003" reading sometimes cited for end of production is wrong; that date traces to the steel 116710LN launch, not the gold version
|-
|-
| total examples
| total examples
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|-
|-
| movement
| movement
| caliber 3185 in the documented production record; later replacement movements require individual inspection
| caliber 3185 across most of the run (Nivarox flat hairspring with Breguet overcoil); rare late-production caliber 3186 with Parachrom blue hairspring on end-of-run examples. The 3186 is documented inconsistently for the 16718 specifically; the bulk of the documented record reads cal 3185 throughout
|-
|-
| GMT mechanic
| GMT mechanic
| flyer GMT : independently adjustable local hour hand, 24-hour hand tracks home time independently
| flyer GMT; independently adjustable local hour hand, 24-hour hand tracks home time independently
|-
|-
| dial generations
| dial generations
| documented black, brown sunburst, white, and gem-set configurations; gem-set layouts vary
| four documented configurations: glossy black, brown sunburst ("rootbeer"), white, champagne / silver serti gem-set with diamond hour markers and ruby accents at 6 / 9. (GMT serti dials use rubies, not the Submariner's sapphires.)
|-
|-
| bezel
| bezel
| bidirectional 24-hour aluminum insert, documented in black or brown/rootbeer configurations; aftermarket diamond-set conversions also exist
| 24-hour aluminium insert in two factory configurations: black or brown ("rootbeer"). No factory pavé-diamond bezel surfaces in major-house lots; diamond-set bezels on 16718 cases circulate as aftermarket conversions
|-
|-
| bracelet
| bracelet
| 18K Oyster (sport-leaning, more often paired with black-dial) or 18K Jubilee (more often paired with serti and rootbeer). Bracelet codes: 78368 Oyster, 8386 Jubilee : both stamped on the largest centre link
| 18K Oyster (sport-leaning, more often paired with black-dial) or 18K Jubilee (more often paired with serti and rootbeer). Bracelet codes: 78368 Oyster, 8386 Jubilee; both stamped on the largest centre link
|}
|}


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Within the five-digit GMT-Master II line the 16718 runs in parallel with the all-steel [[Reference:16710|16710]] and the two-tone [[Reference:16713|16713]] Rootbeer, and from 2005 with the ceramic 116718LN that replaced it. What it replaced in turn was the [[Reference:16758|16758]], built from 1979/80 to 1988 on caliber 3075, whose local hour moved only with the 24-hour hand in the synchronized manner of the original GMT-Master line.
Within the five-digit GMT-Master II line the 16718 runs in parallel with the all-steel [[Reference:16710|16710]] and the two-tone [[Reference:16713|16713]] Rootbeer, and from 2005 with the ceramic 116718LN that replaced it. What it replaced in turn was the [[Reference:16758|16758]], built from 1979/80 to 1988 on caliber 3075, whose local hour moved only with the 24-hour hand in the synchronized manner of the original GMT-Master line.


The gold case-and-bracelet positioning carries over from the 16758. The independently adjustable local-hour mechanism and sapphire-crystal Oyster case with crown guards distinguish the 16718 generation. The next-generation gold GMT is the 116718LN, from 2005, running caliber 3186 under a Cerachrom ceramic bezel with a Maxi dial, Super Case, and solid-centre-link Oyster bracelet.
The gold case-and-bracelet positioning carries over from the 16758. The flyer mechanic and the 1989-onward sapphire-crystal Oyster case with crown guards are new. The next-generation gold GMT is the 116718LN, from 2005, running caliber 3186 under a Cerachrom ceramic bezel with a Maxi dial, Super Case, and solid-centre-link Oyster bracelet.


<span id="production-outline"></span>
<span id="production-outline"></span>
== Production outline ==
== Production outline ==


Production began in 1989. The 16718 entered the catalog as the gold partner to the new flyer-GMT 16710, retiring the 16758 it succeeded. The end year reads 2005 across editorial coverage and major-house lots, lining up with the Baselworld launch of the 116718LN as the 50th-anniversary green-dial replacement. A "2003" end date sometimes circulates; it traces to the steel 116710LN launch year, since the all-gold 116718LN is a 2005 release.
Production began in 1989. The 16718 entered the catalog as the gold partner to the new flyer-GMT 16710, retiring the 16758 it succeeded. The available editorial and auction material places the end of the five-digit all-gold reference around 2005, when the 116718LN was introduced with a Cerachrom bezel and green anniversary dial. A 2003 date appears in some listings but is not used here as a production endpoint.


Collector and auction references place a no-holes case and laser-etched coronet on later examples, often around 2002–2003. The exact transition and case-stamp notation require inspection of the individual watch.
A case-stamp transition runs c.2002–2003 alongside the steel and two-tone sisters, when the lug holes drop and the laser-etched coronet appears on the sapphire crystal at 6 o'clock. The 16718 follows the same case-revision sequence as the 16710 and 16713, although the gold case stamp is sometimes catalogued without the "T" suffix the steel sister carried.


No total-production figure is available in the cited sources.
No total-production figure is available in the cited sources.
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== Movement notes ==
== Movement notes ==


Caliber 3185 powers most of the run, carrying over unchanged from the 16710 and 16713. It is a 31-jewel COSC chronometer beating at 28,800 vph with a 50-hour reserve, hacking seconds and a quickset date, a Glucydur balance regulated by four Microstella screws, and Kif Elastor shock protection. Its documented 3185 configuration uses a Nivarox hairspring with Breguet overcoil. The 16718 record does not establish a factory 3186 transition. The flyer mechanic with its independently adjustable local hour is the architectural break from the linked-hand 3075 that ran in the 16758.
Caliber 3185 powers most of the run, carrying over unchanged from the 16710 and 16713. It is a 31-jewel COSC chronometer beating at 28,800 vph with about a 50-hour reserve, hacking seconds, and a date that advances through the independently adjustable local-hour hand, a Glucydur balance regulated by four Microstella screws, and Kif Elastor shock protection. Its hairspring is flat Nivarox with a Breguet overcoil; the blue Parachrom arrives later, on caliber 3186. The independent local-hour hand is the main functional change from the linked-hand 3075 used in the 16758.


Published reference tables and auction records identify caliber 3185 for the 16718. A 3186 found in a 16718 case should be treated as an individual movement or service question and checked against the movement and serial documentation.
Late-production examples may carry the upgraded caliber 3186 with its Parachrom blue hairspring and the spring-loaded date mechanism that cured the 3185's GMT-hand creep. Where that changeover falls on the 16718 specifically is documented inconsistently, and the bulk of documented examples read cal 3185 throughout the run. A 3186 in a 16718 case is worth checking against the serial before money changes hands.


<span id="dial-map"></span>
<span id="dial-map"></span>
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[[File:Ref 16718 early-black.webp|thumb|right|280px|alt=Early black 16718|Early black 16718]]
[[File:Ref 16718 early-black.webp|thumb|right|280px|alt=Early black 16718|Early black 16718]]
Black is a documented sport configuration. Early examples can have raised or nipple-style markers with tritium plots; later examples use applied markers with gold surrounds. The black insert is one documented pairing. Claims about relative dial stability or aging depend on the individual dial.
Black is the standard sport configuration: glossy black lacquer carrying nipple markers in earlier production and applied indices with yellow-gold surrounds later. A nipple marker is a precious-metal cone with a tritium plot at its centre. It pairs most often with the all-black aluminium insert. Black and brown dials show different ageing and service histories; condition should be judged from the individual watch.


<span id="brown-sunburst-rootbeer"></span>
<span id="brown-sunburst-rootbeer"></span>
=== Brown sunburst ("rootbeer") ===
=== Brown sunburst ("rootbeer") ===


The brown/rootbeer configuration pairs a brown sunburst dial with a brown-and-cream 24-hour insert. Some period brown dials show finish changes or flaking; originality and condition require inspection. No regional demand claim is asserted here.
The signature gold-rootbeer configuration is brown sunburst lacquer with applied yellow-gold nipple markers, paired with the brown-and-cream "rootbeer" insert. Brown dials can show surface damage or refinishing. The available sources do not establish a single failure pattern or a regional demand history that applies to every example.


The term "Sundust" belongs to a different surface treatment, the one on modern Everose Daytona, Datejust, and Day-Date production. The period GMT dial is called brown sunburst or rootbeer.
The term "Sundust" belongs to a different surface treatment, the one on modern Everose Daytona, Datejust, and Day-Date production. The period GMT dial is called brown sunburst or rootbeer.
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=== White ===
=== White ===


The white dial is a factory configuration on a white ground, with applied indices in yellow-gold surrounds under a yellow-gold coronet, paired with the all-black insert. It appears less often in the cited catalogues than the black and brown configurations.
The white dial is a factory configuration on a white ground, with applied indices in yellow-gold surrounds under a yellow-gold coronet, paired with the all-black insert. It appears less often in the cited auction and dealer material than black and brown examples.


<span id="champagne-silver-serti"></span>
<span id="champagne-silver-serti"></span>
=== Champagne / silver serti ===
=== Champagne / silver serti ===


The serti is a factory gem-set variant on the standard 16718 architecture, a champagne or silvered ground carrying diamond hour markers and triangular rubies at 6 and 9 in place of the nipple markers and luminous plots. Auction and collector references document gem-set GMT dials with diamond markers and colored-stone accents, including ruby accents at the cardinal positions. That layout differs from common Submariner Serti examples. Bracelet pairing should be checked on each watch.
The serti is a factory gem-set variant on the standard 16718 architecture, a champagne or silvered ground carrying diamond hour markers and triangular rubies at 6 and 9 in place of the nipple markers and luminous plots. The cited 16713 and 16718 examples use diamond markers with triangular ruby accents on champagne or silvered grounds. Serti configurations are often seen on Jubilee bracelets, but bracelet pairing is not a factory rule.


<span id="case-bezel-crystal-and-crown"></span>
<span id="case-bezel-crystal-and-crown"></span>
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The bezel itself is solid 18K yellow gold and the colour comes from the insert, a bidirectional 24-hour aluminium ring in one of two factory finishes, black or brown-and-cream "rootbeer." Pepsi (red and blue) is a steel 16710 option and never reached the gold case.
The bezel itself is solid 18K yellow gold and the colour comes from the insert, a bidirectional 24-hour aluminium ring in one of two factory finishes, black or brown-and-cream "rootbeer." Pepsi (red and blue) is a steel 16710 option and never reached the gold case.


Aftermarket diamond-set bezels exist on 16718 cases. Factory origin cannot be inferred from the case reference or appearance and requires provenance and construction checks.
The reviewed major-house material does not establish a factory pavé bezel for the 16718. A diamond-set bezel on an individual watch requires case and provenance review; its presence alone does not establish factory delivery.


<span id="bracelets-end-links-and-clasps"></span>
<span id="bracelets-end-links-and-clasps"></span>
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Two factory 18K bracelets fit the 16718. The Oyster 78368 is the three-link, sport-leaning option and turns up most often under black dials. The Jubilee 8386, sometimes with the hidden "Super Jubilee" clasp, is the five-link dress option and pairs most often with serti and rootbeer dials.
Two factory 18K bracelets fit the 16718. The Oyster 78368 is the three-link, sport-leaning option and turns up most often under black dials. The Jubilee 8386, sometimes with the hidden "Super Jubilee" clasp, is the five-link dress option and pairs most often with serti and rootbeer dials.


Clasps are 18K Fliplock Oyster or hidden-crown Jubilee. The bracelet codes date the bracelet and not the watch head, so a clasp dating later than the case points to a swap or a service replacement. Both bracelet families appear in period examples; the bracelet date and construction should be checked separately from the watch head.
Clasps are 18K Fliplock Oyster or hidden-crown Jubilee. The bracelet codes date the bracelet and not the watch head, so a clasp dating later than the case points to a swap or a service replacement. Both bracelets appear in the surviving record; the cited sources do not establish a complete delivery split by year or dial.


<span id="historical-market-and-auction-record"></span>
<span id="historical-market-and-auction-record"></span>
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| Phillips Hong Kong Watch Auction SEVEN || 956 || 2018 || c.1990 18K yellow gold, early production || not publicly listed
| Phillips Hong Kong Watch Auction SEVEN || 956 || 2018 || c.1990 18K yellow gold, early production || not publicly listed
|-
|-
| Sotheby's Watches || not stated || 2020 || yellow-gold automatic dual time || not publicly listed
| Sotheby's Watches || || 2020 || yellow-gold automatic dual time || not publicly listed
|-
|-
| EveryWatch aggregate || Rare Watches lot 207 || not stated || 1989 champagne dial || not publicly listed
| EveryWatch aggregate || Rare Watches lot 207 || || 1989 champagne dial || not publicly listed
|-
|-
| EveryWatch / Watches Online: The Geneva Edit || not stated || not stated || c.1989 (catalog "1985" likely typo) || not publicly listed
| EveryWatch / Watches Online: The Geneva Edit || || || c.1989 (catalog "1985" likely typo) || not publicly listed
|}
|}


The table records a small set of auction and catalogue examples. Current prices vary with metal condition, dial, bracelet, completeness, service history, and provenance; no general range or premium ladder is asserted here.
The auction and dealer record is smaller than the steel 16710 record. Results vary with dial, case condition, bracelet, papers, service history, and whether gem-setting or bezel work is original. The listed lots should be read individually; they do not establish a fixed price band or a universal serti premium.
 
<gallery mode="packed" heights="180">
Ref 16718 hero.webp|Full-gold 16718
Ref 16718 catalogue-portrait.webp|Catalogue portrait
Ref 16718 early-black.webp|Early black dial
Ref 16718 bezel-closeup.webp|Black bezel
Ref 16718 gold-oyster.webp|Gold Oyster bracelet
</gallery>


== Related references ==
== Related references ==


* [[Reference:16710|GMT-Master 16710]] : Pepsi, Coke & Black (1989–2007)
* [[Reference:16710|GMT-Master 16710]]: Pepsi, Coke & Black (1989–2007)
* [[Reference:16713|GMT-Master 16713]] : 1989–2007
* [[Reference:16713|GMT-Master 16713]]: 1989–2007
* [[Reference:16700|GMT-Master 16700]] : 1988–1998
* [[Reference:16700|GMT-Master 16700]]: 1988–1998
* [[Reference:16760|GMT-Master 16760]] : "Fat Lady", Coke Bezel (1983–1988)
* [[Reference:16760|GMT-Master 16760]]: "Fat Lady", Coke Bezel (1983–1988)
* [[Reference:116718LN|GMT-Master 116718LN]] : 2005–2019
* [[Reference:116718LN|GMT-Master 116718LN]]: 2005–2019
* [[Reference:16750|GMT-Master 16750]] : 1979–1988
* [[Reference:16750|GMT-Master 16750]]: 1979–1988


See also the [[Reference:gmt-master|GMT-Master family index]], [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|bracelet & clasp guide]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial numbers by year]].
See also the [[Reference:gmt-master|GMT-Master family index]], [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|bracelet & clasp guide]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial numbers by year]].


== Sources ==
== Sources ==
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/articles/the-rolex-gmt-master-the-complete-collectors-guide Sotheby's GMT-Master collector guide] — family chronology and reference context
* [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rolex_GMT-Master_II Wikipedia: Rolex GMT-Master II] — family chronology and movement context
* [https://www.rolex.com/watches/gmt-master-ii Rolex GMT-Master II technical material] — current feature terminology


* [https://monochrome-watches.com/history-rolex-gmt-master-and-gmt-master-ii-1955-2024-iconic-traveller-watch-in-depth-review/ In-Depth: The History of the Rolex GMT-Master and GMT-Master II] (Monochrome)
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/history-rolex-gmt-master-and-gmt-master-ii-1955-2024-iconic-traveller-watch-in-depth-review/ In-Depth: The History of the Rolex GMT-Master and GMT-Master II] (Monochrome)
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/articles/the-rolex-gmt-master-the-complete-collectors-guide The Rolex GMT-Master: A Complete Collector's Guide] : Stephen Pulvirent (Sotheby's)
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/articles/the-rolex-gmt-master-the-complete-collectors-guide The Rolex GMT-Master: A Complete Collector's Guide]; Stephen Pulvirent (Sotheby's)
* [https://watchbase.com/rolex/gmt-master/16718 Rolex GMT-Master 16718 reference page] (Watchbase)
* [https://watchbase.com/rolex/gmt-master/16718 Rolex GMT-Master 16718 reference page] (Watchbase)
* [https://www.chrono24.com/magazine/golden-boy-with-retro-flair-the-new-rolex-yellow-gold-gmt-master-ii-p_114312/ Golden Boy with Retro Flair: The New Rolex Yellow Gold GMT-Master II] (Chrono24 Magazine)
* [https://www.chrono24.com/magazine/golden-boy-with-retro-flair-the-new-rolex-yellow-gold-gmt-master-ii-p_114312/ Golden Boy with Retro Flair: The New Rolex Yellow Gold GMT-Master II] (Chrono24 Magazine)
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* [https://www.bobswatches.com/rolex-blog/watch-review/5-unforgettable-examples-serti-dial.html 5 Unforgettable Examples of Serti Dials]
* [https://www.bobswatches.com/rolex-blog/watch-review/5-unforgettable-examples-serti-dial.html 5 Unforgettable Examples of Serti Dials]
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/rolex-gmt-master-ii-steel-yellow-gold-two-tone-rolesor-126713grnr-hands-on-review-price/ Rolex GMT-Master II 126713GRNR hands-on review] (Monochrome)
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/rolex-gmt-master-ii-steel-yellow-gold-two-tone-rolesor-126713grnr-hands-on-review-price/ Rolex GMT-Master II 126713GRNR hands-on review] (Monochrome)
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080221/148 Rolex 16718 rootbeer : Phillips Geneva XIV lot 148] (Phillips, 2021)
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080221/148 Rolex 16718 rootbeer; Phillips Geneva XIV lot 148] (Phillips, 2021)
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/HK080218/956 Rolex 16718 c.1990 : Phillips Hong Kong SEVEN lot 956] (Phillips, 2018)
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/HK080218/956 Rolex 16718 c.1990; Phillips Hong Kong SEVEN lot 956] (Phillips, 2018)
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2020/watches/rolex-gmt-master-ii-ref-16718-a-yellow-gold Rolex GMT-Master II Ref. 16718 : Sotheby's Watches] (Sotheby's, 2020)
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2020/watches/rolex-gmt-master-ii-ref-16718-a-yellow-gold Rolex GMT-Master II Ref. 16718; Sotheby's Watches] (Sotheby's, 2020)
* [https://everywatch.com/rolex/16718/watch-9016154 1989 16718 champagne dial Rare Watches lot 207] (EveryWatch)
* [https://everywatch.com/rolex/16718/watch-9016154 1989 16718 champagne dial Rare Watches lot 207] (EveryWatch)
* [https://watch.the1916company.com/videos/rolex-gmt-master-ii-jubilee-16718-review Rolex GMT-Master II Jubilee 16718 review]
* [https://watch.the1916company.com/videos/rolex-gmt-master-ii-jubilee-16718-review Rolex GMT-Master II Jubilee 16718 review]
Line 201: Line 190:
* [https://www.swisswatchexpo.com/watches/rolex-gmt-master-rootbeer-18k-yellow-gold-vintage-mens-watch-16718-32175/ Rolex GMT-Master Rootbeer 18K Yellow Gold 16718]
* [https://www.swisswatchexpo.com/watches/rolex-gmt-master-rootbeer-18k-yellow-gold-vintage-mens-watch-16718-32175/ Rolex GMT-Master Rootbeer 18K Yellow Gold 16718]
* [https://www.jaztime.com/rolex-gmt-master-ii-yellow-gold-black-dial-oyster-bracelet-116718ln 116718LN Yellow Gold Black Dial] (Jaztime)
* [https://www.jaztime.com/rolex-gmt-master-ii-yellow-gold-black-dial-oyster-bracelet-116718ln 116718LN Yellow Gold Black Dial] (Jaztime)
* ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' : Colin A. White, Morning Tundra
* ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual''; Colin A. White, Morning Tundra


[[Category:GMT-Master]]
[[Category:GMT-Master]]

Revision as of 22:45, 28 September 2026


GMT-Master › 16718

Rolex GMT-Master II 16718 in 18K yellow gold, black dial and bezel, 3/4 angle
Rolex GMT-Master II 16718 in 18K yellow gold, black dial and bezel

The 16718 is the all-yellow-gold branch of the 16710 generation, alongside the steel 16710 and two-tone 16713. Sources date the five-digit gold reference to the late 1980s or early 1990s and place its replacement by the 116718LN in 2005. It uses caliber 3185 for most of the run, a 40mm Oyster case, and the independent-hour GMT mechanism. Documented dials include black, brown, white, and gem-set configurations.

Core facts

detail value
reference 16718
family GMT-Master II (all-yellow-gold variant)
production 1989 to approximately 2005. Replaced by the 116718LN at Baselworld 2005 alongside the GMT-Master 50th-anniversary green-dial release. The "2003" reading sometimes cited for end of production is wrong; that date traces to the steel 116710LN launch, not the gold version
total examples no published Rolex production figure
case 40mm 18K yellow-gold Oyster with crown guards, 100m water resistance
crystal sapphire with Cyclops; laser-etched coronet at 6 o'clock from approximately 2003
movement caliber 3185 across most of the run (Nivarox flat hairspring with Breguet overcoil); rare late-production caliber 3186 with Parachrom blue hairspring on end-of-run examples. The 3186 is documented inconsistently for the 16718 specifically; the bulk of the documented record reads cal 3185 throughout
GMT mechanic flyer GMT; independently adjustable local hour hand, 24-hour hand tracks home time independently
dial generations four documented configurations: glossy black, brown sunburst ("rootbeer"), white, champagne / silver serti gem-set with diamond hour markers and ruby accents at 6 / 9. (GMT serti dials use rubies, not the Submariner's sapphires.)
bezel 24-hour aluminium insert in two factory configurations: black or brown ("rootbeer"). No factory pavé-diamond bezel surfaces in major-house lots; diamond-set bezels on 16718 cases circulate as aftermarket conversions
bracelet 18K Oyster (sport-leaning, more often paired with black-dial) or 18K Jubilee (more often paired with serti and rootbeer). Bracelet codes: 78368 Oyster, 8386 Jubilee; both stamped on the largest centre link

Where it sits in the line

All-yellow-gold GMT-Master II 16718, catalogue-style portrait shot
All-yellow-gold 16718, catalogue-style portrait shot

Within the five-digit GMT-Master II line the 16718 runs in parallel with the all-steel 16710 and the two-tone 16713 Rootbeer, and from 2005 with the ceramic 116718LN that replaced it. What it replaced in turn was the 16758, built from 1979/80 to 1988 on caliber 3075, whose local hour moved only with the 24-hour hand in the synchronized manner of the original GMT-Master line.

The gold case-and-bracelet positioning carries over from the 16758. The flyer mechanic and the 1989-onward sapphire-crystal Oyster case with crown guards are new. The next-generation gold GMT is the 116718LN, from 2005, running caliber 3186 under a Cerachrom ceramic bezel with a Maxi dial, Super Case, and solid-centre-link Oyster bracelet.

Production outline

Production began in 1989. The 16718 entered the catalog as the gold partner to the new flyer-GMT 16710, retiring the 16758 it succeeded. The available editorial and auction material places the end of the five-digit all-gold reference around 2005, when the 116718LN was introduced with a Cerachrom bezel and green anniversary dial. A 2003 date appears in some listings but is not used here as a production endpoint.

A case-stamp transition runs c.2002–2003 alongside the steel and two-tone sisters, when the lug holes drop and the laser-etched coronet appears on the sapphire crystal at 6 o'clock. The 16718 follows the same case-revision sequence as the 16710 and 16713, although the gold case stamp is sometimes catalogued without the "T" suffix the steel sister carried.

No total-production figure is available in the cited sources.

Movement notes

Caliber 3185 powers most of the run, carrying over unchanged from the 16710 and 16713. It is a 31-jewel COSC chronometer beating at 28,800 vph with about a 50-hour reserve, hacking seconds, and a date that advances through the independently adjustable local-hour hand, a Glucydur balance regulated by four Microstella screws, and Kif Elastor shock protection. Its hairspring is flat Nivarox with a Breguet overcoil; the blue Parachrom arrives later, on caliber 3186. The independent local-hour hand is the main functional change from the linked-hand 3075 used in the 16758.

Late-production examples may carry the upgraded caliber 3186 with its Parachrom blue hairspring and the spring-loaded date mechanism that cured the 3185's GMT-hand creep. Where that changeover falls on the 16718 specifically is documented inconsistently, and the bulk of documented examples read cal 3185 throughout the run. A 3186 in a 16718 case is worth checking against the serial before money changes hands.

Dial map

Four documented dial branches across the run.

Glossy black

Early black 16718
Early black 16718

Black is the standard sport configuration: glossy black lacquer carrying nipple markers in earlier production and applied indices with yellow-gold surrounds later. A nipple marker is a precious-metal cone with a tritium plot at its centre. It pairs most often with the all-black aluminium insert. Black and brown dials show different ageing and service histories; condition should be judged from the individual watch.

Brown sunburst ("rootbeer")

The signature gold-rootbeer configuration is brown sunburst lacquer with applied yellow-gold nipple markers, paired with the brown-and-cream "rootbeer" insert. Brown dials can show surface damage or refinishing. The available sources do not establish a single failure pattern or a regional demand history that applies to every example.

The term "Sundust" belongs to a different surface treatment, the one on modern Everose Daytona, Datejust, and Day-Date production. The period GMT dial is called brown sunburst or rootbeer.

White

The white dial is a factory configuration on a white ground, with applied indices in yellow-gold surrounds under a yellow-gold coronet, paired with the all-black insert. It appears less often in the cited auction and dealer material than black and brown examples.

Champagne / silver serti

The serti is a factory gem-set variant on the standard 16718 architecture, a champagne or silvered ground carrying diamond hour markers and triangular rubies at 6 and 9 in place of the nipple markers and luminous plots. The cited 16713 and 16718 examples use diamond markers with triangular ruby accents on champagne or silvered grounds. Serti configurations are often seen on Jubilee bracelets, but bracelet pairing is not a factory rule.

Case, bezel, crystal, and crown

Black 24-hour bezel close-up
Black 24-hour bezel close-up

The case is the standard 40mm Oyster of the 16710 era in 18K yellow gold throughout, mid-case, lugs, bezel ring, crown, and outer bracelet links all gold. A sapphire crystal with Cyclops covers the date on the usual sapphire-era crown-guard architecture, and from approximately 2003 the laser-etched coronet appears at 6 o'clock. Water resistance is 100m.

The bezel itself is solid 18K yellow gold and the colour comes from the insert, a bidirectional 24-hour aluminium ring in one of two factory finishes, black or brown-and-cream "rootbeer." Pepsi (red and blue) is a steel 16710 option and never reached the gold case.

The reviewed major-house material does not establish a factory pavé bezel for the 16718. A diamond-set bezel on an individual watch requires case and provenance review; its presence alone does not establish factory delivery.

Bracelets, end links, and clasps

Gold Oyster bracelet
Gold Oyster bracelet

Two factory 18K bracelets fit the 16718. The Oyster 78368 is the three-link, sport-leaning option and turns up most often under black dials. The Jubilee 8386, sometimes with the hidden "Super Jubilee" clasp, is the five-link dress option and pairs most often with serti and rootbeer dials.

Clasps are 18K Fliplock Oyster or hidden-crown Jubilee. The bracelet codes date the bracelet and not the watch head, so a clasp dating later than the case points to a swap or a service replacement. Both bracelets appear in the surviving record; the cited sources do not establish a complete delivery split by year or dial.

Historical market and auction record

Sale Lot Year of watch Configuration Result
Phillips Geneva Watch Auction XIV 148 2021 rootbeer dial with brown insert, full Rolex service April 2021, engraved-Rolex caseback intact not publicly listed
Phillips Hong Kong Watch Auction SEVEN 956 2018 c.1990 18K yellow gold, early production not publicly listed
Sotheby's Watches 2020 yellow-gold automatic dual time not publicly listed
EveryWatch aggregate Rare Watches lot 207 1989 champagne dial not publicly listed
EveryWatch / Watches Online: The Geneva Edit c.1989 (catalog "1985" likely typo) not publicly listed

The auction and dealer record is smaller than the steel 16710 record. Results vary with dial, case condition, bracelet, papers, service history, and whether gem-setting or bezel work is original. The listed lots should be read individually; they do not establish a fixed price band or a universal serti premium.

Related references

See also the GMT-Master family index, movement reference, bracelet & clasp guide, and serial numbers by year.

Sources

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