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Reference:5508: Difference between revisions

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Audit 5508 evidence, Bond attribution, prose, and image gallery
Correct technical data and deepen evidence follow-up
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{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex 5508 Submariner}}
{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex 5508 Submariner}}
{{#seo:
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Submariner 5508 (1957–1961) — Production & Dial Guide | Rolexopedia
|title=Rolex Submariner 5508 (1958–1962) — Reference guide | Rolexopedia
|description=The 5508 is the last small-crown 100m Submariner without crown guards. 1958–62 production, caliber 1530 (jewel progression 17→25→26), four-line SCOC and exclamation dial branches, period-correct 6636 / 7206 / 6251H bracelets.
|description=Reference 5508 is the last small-crown 100m Submariner without crown guards. This guide covers its c.1958–1962 production, caliber 1530 variants, gilt and exclamation dials, and documented bracelet fitments.
|keywords=Rolex, 5508, Submariner, specifications, small crown, exclamation dial, James Bond
|keywords=Rolex, 5508, Submariner, specifications, small crown, exclamation dial, James Bond
|image=Ref 5508 hero 3.webp
|image=Ref 5508 hero 3.webp
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|-
|-
| depth rating
| depth rating
| 100m / 660ft, two-line layout (some 1959 onward four-line "Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified" variants documented)
| 100m / 330ft, two-line layout (some 1959 onward four-line "Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified" variants documented)
|-
|-
| crystal
| crystal
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Use case-back date codes alongside serials when assigning a build year — Rolex date-coded casebacks separately from serials. Phillips Geneva NINE 2019 lot 213 (case 361,650, "circa 1958") and Bonhams Feb 2018 lot 24627/98 (1959, 6251H rivet bracelet) anchor the launch period; Sotheby's Watches Online 2020 lot 37 (case 489,831, circa 1959) and Antiquorum Geneva 2020 lot 333-422 (case 490,575, circa 1958) populate the early-band cluster. The late cluster sits in the 762k–764k band: Phillips Hong Kong SPORTS 2019 lot 881 (case 762,896, II.62 caseback), Antiquorum Forte Dei Marmi 2021 (case 764,122, 1962), Antiquorum Monaco 2024 (case 764,196, 1962), Phillips Geneva XV 2022 lot 160 (case 764,524, 1962). The general Rolex serial charts in circulation (1958 ~224k–328k, 1962 ~643k) under-shoot the 5508-observed serials because the head-stamping ran later than the catalog-year for this specific reference.
Use case-back date codes alongside serials when assigning a build year — Rolex date-coded casebacks separately from serials. Phillips Geneva NINE 2019 lot 213 (case 361,650, "circa 1958") and Bonhams Feb 2018 lot 24627/98 (1959, 6251H rivet bracelet) anchor the launch period; Sotheby's Watches Online 2020 lot 37 (case 489,831, circa 1959) and Antiquorum Geneva 2020 lot 333-422 (case 490,575, circa 1958) populate the early-band cluster. The late cluster sits in the 762k–764k band: Phillips Hong Kong SPORTS 2019 lot 881 (case 762,896, II.62 caseback), Antiquorum Forte Dei Marmi 2021 (case 764,122, 1962), Antiquorum Monaco 2024 (case 764,196, 1962), Phillips Geneva XV 2022 lot 160 (case 764,524, 1962). The general Rolex serial charts in circulation (1958 ~224k–328k, 1962 ~643k) under-shoot the 5508-observed serials because the head-stamping ran later than the catalog-year for this specific reference.


The 5508 is primarily a gilt-dial reference, with glossy black lacquer and gilt-coloured printing. Late 1962 examples include the exclamation-dial transition.
The 5508 is primarily a gilt-dial reference, with glossy black lacquer and gilt-coloured printing. Late-run examples include the exclamation-dial transition.


<span id="movement-notes"></span>
<span id="movement-notes"></span>
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The 1530 is not chronometer-rated at launch. The chronometer-rated four-line "Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified" dial is therefore a later 5508 spec, not the day-one configuration. Le Monde Edmond confirms 1530 is "more modern and reliable" than the 6536/1's 1030. The chronometer-rated upgrade to caliber 1560 follows on the 5512.
The 1530 is not chronometer-rated at launch. The chronometer-rated four-line "Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified" dial is therefore a later 5508 spec, not the day-one configuration. Le Monde Edmond confirms 1530 is "more modern and reliable" than the 6536/1's 1030. The chronometer-rated upgrade to caliber 1560 follows on the 5512.


Caliber 1530 shares the diameter of the earlier 1030 but was reduced to 5.75mm in height — a slimming that preserved case compatibility while sitting flatter inside the 5508's slim no-crown-guard case.
Caliber 1530 belongs to the same 12½-ligne movement family as the earlier 1030, with documented fitment in the 5508. Published height figures vary by source, so the page does not use a single height value to identify a watch.


<span id="dial-map"></span>
<span id="dial-map"></span>
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=== Four-line "SCOC" gilt ===
=== Four-line "SCOC" gilt ===


A subset of 5508 dials carry the "Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified" line above 6 o'clock — the four-line layout. Antiquorum's 2008 Revolution sale lot 204 explicitly catalogues a "Gilt Four Line" 5508. The four-line dial coexists with the two-line dial during overlapping years rather than replacing it cleanly. The four-line spec accompanies the chronometer-grade running gear that arrived later in the 1530's life — consistent with the 17 → 25 → 26 jewel progression over the run.
A subset of 5508 dials carry the "Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified" line above 6 o'clock — the four-line layout. Antiquorum's 2008 Revolution sale lot 204 explicitly catalogues a "Gilt Four Line" 5508. The four-line dial coexists with the two-line dial during overlapping years rather than replacing it cleanly. A four-line dial identifies a chronometer-marked example in the cited lot records. The available evidence does not establish a universal jewel-count transition or a serial-by-serial pairing between the 17-, 25-, and 26-jewel executions.


<span id="exclamation-dial"></span>
<span id="exclamation-dial"></span>
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Period-correct delivery bracelets on the 5508 split across three references depending on year and option. The earliest examples ship with the 6251H riveted Oyster (Bonhams Feb 2018, 1959 example with clasp 2/68 marking a service event but original-style fitment). The 7206 fixed-link riveted Oyster is the period-correct mainstream fitment — Bonhams Dec 2023 lot 38 documents a 1958 example with clasp 4/69, and Phillips Hong Kong 2019 lot 881 documents the 1962 fitment with end-link 64. The 6636 expandable riveted Oyster is the third documented original-delivery option — Phillips Geneva XV 2022 lot 160 (1962, clasp 4/64) and Phillips Geneva NINE 2019 (riveted Oyster with deployant clasp 1/58) anchor the 6636 fitment.
Period-correct delivery bracelets on the 5508 split across three references depending on year and option. The earliest examples ship with the 6251H riveted Oyster (Bonhams Feb 2018, 1959 example with clasp 2/68 marking a service event but original-style fitment). The 7206 fixed-link riveted Oyster is the period-correct mainstream fitment — Bonhams Dec 2023 lot 38 documents a 1958 example with clasp 4/69, and Phillips Hong Kong 2019 lot 881 documents the 1962 fitment with end-link 64. The 6636 expandable riveted Oyster is the third documented original-delivery option — Phillips Geneva XV 2022 lot 160 (1962, clasp 4/64) and Phillips Geneva NINE 2019 (riveted Oyster with deployant clasp 1/58) anchor the 6636 fitment.


The 9315 folded-link Oyster is a post-1968 service replacement only — not period-correct for any 5508. Any 9315 on a 5508 marks a service swap. Swiss rivet bracelets began carrying reference-number stamps on the largest link at 12 o'clock in 1961, so a bracelet without the reference stamp predates that change. Clasp date codes are the cleanest single-component dating tool: a clasp dating later than the case head implies a swap or service-era replacement.
The 9315 folded-link Oyster is a later replacement rather than a period 5508 delivery fitment in the cited records. A 9315 on a 5508 should therefore be treated as a service or later replacement until its provenance shows otherwise. RolexHaven dates reference-number stamps on the largest rivet link to 1962; an unstamped bracelet may predate that change, but the clasp and end links still need separate checks. Clasp date codes are the cleanest single-component dating tool: a clasp dating later than the case head implies a swap or service-era replacement.


A 1962 example is documented with a period presentation box. That lot does not establish how often original packaging survives.
A 1962 example is documented with a period presentation box. That lot does not establish how often original packaging survives.
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== Sources ==
== Sources ==


* [https://newsroom.rolex.com/watches/oyster-collection/submariner Rolex, "The Submariner — history and specifications"]
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/rolex-submariner-history-part-2-the-55xx-1680references/ History of the Rolex Submariner — Part 2, The 55XX References and 1680 Date] — Tom Mulraney (Monochrome, 2020)
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/rolex-submariner-history-part-2-the-55xx-1680references/ History of the Rolex Submariner — Part 2, The 55XX References and 1680 Date] — Tom Mulraney (Monochrome, 2020)
* [https://www.fratellowatches.com/grail-material-1959-rolex-submariner-ref-5508/ Grail Material: 1959 Rolex Submariner Ref. 5508] (Fratello)
* [https://www.fratellowatches.com/grail-material-1959-rolex-submariner-ref-5508/ Grail Material: 1959 Rolex Submariner Ref. 5508] (Fratello)
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