Reference:16718: Difference between revisions
| [checked revision] | [checked revision] |
SEO: og:image + image_alt + og_type + timestamps |
16718 rebuild from external research scout (17 sources). Production 1989-2005 (NOT 2003 — that was steel 116710LN year; 116718LN is 2005 50th-anniversary release). Cal 3185 across most of run with Nivarox flat hairspring + Breguet overcoil; rare late cal 3186 with Parachrom. Four dial generations: glossy black / brown sunburst rootbeer / white / champagne+silver serti gem-set with rubies (NOT sapphires — those are Submariner serti). Bezel: black or brown rootbeer aluminium ONLY — no factory p... |
||
| Line 1: | Line 1: | ||
{{#seo: | {{#seo: | ||
|title=Rolex 16718 GMT-Master — Production, Dial Variants, Serial Ranges | BezelBase | |title=Rolex 16718 GMT-Master II — Production, Dial Variants, Serial Ranges | BezelBase | ||
|description=The | |description=The 16718 is the all-yellow-gold GMT-Master II of 1989 to 2005. Caliber 3185 with rare late cal 3186, four documented dials (black, brown sunburst, white, champagne / silver serti), black or brown ("rootbeer") aluminium bezel, 18K Oyster or Jubilee bracelet. | ||
|keywords=Rolex, 16718, GMT-Master, | |keywords=Rolex, 16718, GMT-Master II, yellow gold, caliber 3185, serti dial, rootbeer | ||
|image=Ref 16718 hero.webp | |image=Ref 16718 hero.webp | ||
|image_alt=18k yellow-gold GMT-Master II | |image_alt=18k yellow-gold GMT-Master II | ||
|type=article | |type=article | ||
|og_type=article | |og_type=article | ||
|published_time=2026-04-18T03:22: | |published_time=2026-04-18T03:22:36Z | ||
|modified_time=2026-04- | |modified_time=2026-04-29T12:10:00Z | ||
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large | |robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large | ||
}} | }} | ||
<small>[[Reference:gmt-master|GMT-Master]] -> '''16718'''</small> | <small>[[Reference:gmt-master|GMT-Master]] -> '''16718'''</small> | ||
The [[Reference:16718|16718]] is the | The [[Reference:16718|16718]] is the all-yellow-gold variant of the 16710 — the 18K case-and-bracelet sister to the steel [[Reference:16710|16710]] and the two-tone [[Reference:16713|16713]]. Production runs 1989 to approximately 2005, succeeded by the 116718LN with the new ceramic Cerachrom bezel and the 50th-anniversary green dial. Same caliber 3185 across most of the run, same 40mm Oyster case dimensions, same flyer-GMT mechanic — but executed in 18K yellow gold throughout, with the dial palette weighted toward Cellini-buyer evening-dress configurations alongside the standard sport variants. | ||
<span id="core-facts"></span> | <span id="core-facts"></span> | ||
| Line 34: | Line 31: | ||
|- | |- | ||
| family | | family | ||
| GMT-Master II | | GMT-Master II (all-yellow-gold variant) | ||
|- | |- | ||
| production | | production | ||
| | | 1989 to approximately 2005. Replaced by the 116718LN at Baselworld 2005 alongside the GMT-Master 50th-anniversary green-dial release. The "2003" reading sometimes cited for end of production is wrong — that date traces to the steel 116710LN launch, not the gold version | ||
|- | |- | ||
| | | total examples | ||
| | | no published Rolex production figure | ||
|- | |- | ||
| case | | case | ||
| 40mm | | 40mm 18K yellow-gold Oyster with crown guards, 100m water resistance | ||
|- | |- | ||
| crystal | | crystal | ||
| sapphire with Cyclops | | sapphire with Cyclops; laser-etched coronet at 6 o'clock from approximately 2003 | ||
|- | |||
| movement | |||
| caliber 3185 across most of the run (Nivarox flat hairspring with Breguet overcoil); rare late-production caliber 3186 with Parachrom blue hairspring on end-of-run examples. The 3186 is documented inconsistently for the 16718 specifically — the bulk of the corpus reads cal 3185 throughout | |||
|- | |||
| GMT mechanic | |||
| flyer GMT — independently adjustable local hour hand, 24-hour hand tracks home time independently | |||
|- | |- | ||
| | | dial generations | ||
| | | four documented configurations: glossy black, brown sunburst ("rootbeer"), white, champagne / silver serti gem-set with diamond hour markers and ruby accents at 6 / 9. (GMT serti dials use rubies, not the Submariner's sapphires.) | ||
|- | |- | ||
| bezel | | bezel | ||
| black in the | | 24-hour aluminium insert in two factory configurations: black or brown ("rootbeer"). No factory pavé-diamond bezel surfaces in the auction-house corpus — diamond-set bezels on 16718 cases circulate as aftermarket conversions | ||
|- | |- | ||
| | | bracelet | ||
| | | 18K Oyster (sport-leaning, more often paired with black-dial) or 18K Jubilee (more often paired with serti and rootbeer). Bracelet codes: 78368 Oyster, 8386 Jubilee — both stamped on the largest centre link | ||
|} | |} | ||
| Line 61: | Line 64: | ||
== Where it sits in the line == | == Where it sits in the line == | ||
The | The 16718 is the all-yellow-gold counterpart to the [[Reference:16710|16710]] within the five-digit GMT-Master II line — same case shape, same caliber, same flyer-GMT mechanic, but executed in 18K yellow gold throughout. It runs in parallel with the all-steel 16710, the two-tone 16713 Rootbeer, and (from 2005) the ceramic 116718LN successor. The reference replaces the [[Reference:16758|16758]] (1979/80–1988, caliber 3075, caller GMT) which ran on the synchronized hand-set logic of the original GMT-Master line. | ||
The 16718 inherits the gold case-and-bracelet positioning of the 16758 but adopts the new GMT-Master II flyer mechanic and the 1989-onwards sapphire-crystal Oyster case with crown guards. The next-generation gold GMT is the 116718LN (2005-onwards, caliber 3186 flyer GMT, Cerachrom ceramic bezel, Maxi dial, Super Case, solid-centre-link Oyster bracelet). | |||
<span id="production-outline"></span> | <span id="production-outline"></span> | ||
== Production outline == | == Production outline == | ||
Launch year unanimous at 1989 — the 16718 entered the catalog as the gold partner to the new flyer-GMT 16710, retiring the 16758 it succeeded. End year reads at 2005 across the editorial and auction-house corpus, lining up with the Baselworld launch of the 116718LN as the 50th-anniversary green-dial replacement. The "2003" reading sometimes carried in dealer summaries traces to the steel 116710LN launch year, not the gold version — the all-gold 116718LN is a 2005 release, not 2003. | |||
A discrete intra-production case-stamp transition runs c.2002–2003 alongside the steel and two-tone sisters: lug holes drop and the laser-etched coronet appears on the sapphire crystal at 6 o'clock. The 16718 follows the same case revision sequence as the 16710 / 16713, although the gold-case-stamp variant is sometimes catalogued without the "T" suffix that the steel sister carried. | |||
No total-production figure surfaces in the surveyed sources. Specialist coverage describes the gold variant as much rarer than the steel 16710 — the run is meaningfully smaller given the case material, but no source quantifies it. | |||
<span id=" | <span id="movement-notes"></span> | ||
=== | == Movement notes == | ||
Caliber 3185 powers most of the run. Specifications carry over directly from the 16710 / 16713: 31 jewels, 28,800 vph, 50-hour reserve, hacking, quickset date, COSC chronometer, Glucydur balance with Microstella four-screw regulation, Kif Elastor anti-shock. The 3185 hairspring is Nivarox flat with a Breguet overcoil — the blue Parachrom hairspring arrives later on caliber 3186. | |||
Late-production 16718 examples may carry the upgraded caliber 3186 with the Parachrom blue hairspring and the spring-loaded date mechanism that fixed the 3185's GMT-hand creep. The 3185 → 3186 transition window for the 16718 specifically is documented inconsistently across editorial — the bulk of the surveyed corpus reads cal 3185 throughout the 16718 production. A 3186 in a 16718 case warrants serial-aware verification. | |||
The flyer-GMT mechanic with independently adjustable local hour is the same architectural break from the linked-hand 3075 that ran in the 16758 predecessor. | |||
<span id="dial-map"></span> | <span id="dial-map"></span> | ||
| Line 90: | Line 91: | ||
[[File:Ref 16718 early-black.webp|thumb|right|280px|alt=Early black 16718|Early black 16718]] | [[File:Ref 16718 early-black.webp|thumb|right|280px|alt=Early black 16718|Early black 16718]] | ||
Four documented dial branches across the run. | |||
<span id="black-glossy-nipple"></span> | |||
=== Glossy black === | |||
The standard sport configuration. Glossy black lacquer with applied yellow-gold-surround indices ("nipple" markers — precious-metal cones with a central tritium plot in earlier production, applied yellow-gold-surround indices in later production). Pairs most often with the all-black aluminium bezel insert. The black 16718 lacquer is the more stable formulation; black-dial examples age more cleanly than the brown sunburst. | |||
<span id="brown-sunburst-rootbeer"></span> | |||
=== Brown sunburst ("rootbeer") === | |||
The signature gold-rootbeer configuration on the 16718. Brown sunburst lacquer with applied yellow-gold nipple markers; pairs with the brown-and-cream "rootbeer" bezel insert. The lacquer carries the period formulation that produces flaking on the 16713 and 16753 brown sunburst — the standing condition warning is identical, with damage typically concentrated around the index circumference. Italian and Middle-Eastern collector demand drove much of the regular 16718 brown market through the 1990s. | |||
The "Sundust" finish that appears on modern Everose Daytona / Datejust / Day-Date production is a different surface treatment — using "Sundust" on a 1989–2005 yellow-gold GMT will read wrong to collectors. The vintage 16718 brown is correctly described as brown sunburst or rootbeer. | |||
<span id="white-dial"></span> | |||
=== White === | |||
A less-common factory dial configuration. White ground with applied yellow-gold-surround indices and yellow-gold coronet, paired with the all-black bezel insert. Surfaces less frequently than the black or brown branches and carries its own collector niche. | |||
<span id=" | <span id="champagne-silver-serti"></span> | ||
== | === Champagne / silver serti === | ||
A factory gem-set variant on the standard 16718 architecture. Champagne or silvered ground with diamond hour markers and triangular ruby markers at 6 and 9 — replacing the standard nipple-marker / luminous-plot layout with precious-stone hour markers. The 16713 and 16718 are the only two GMT references to receive serti dials (the Submariner serti uses sapphires; the GMT serti uses rubies, the diagnostic distinction). Serti-dial 16718s most often pair with the 18K Jubilee bracelet. | |||
<span id="case-bezel-crystal-and-crown"></span> | |||
== Case, bezel, crystal, and crown == | |||
[[File:Ref 16718 bezel-closeup.webp|thumb|right|280px|alt=Black 24-hour bezel close-up|Black 24-hour bezel close-up]] | |||
The case is the standard 40mm Oyster of the 16710 era, executed in 18K yellow gold throughout — mid-case, lugs, bezel ring, crown, and outer bracelet links all gold. Sapphire crystal with Cyclops over the date sits on the standard sapphire-era crown-guard architecture; from approximately 2003 the laser-etched coronet appears at 6 o'clock on the sapphire. Water resistance is 100m. | |||
The bezel is a 24-hour bidirectional aluminium insert in two factory configurations: black aluminium or brown-and-cream "rootbeer." The bezel itself is solid 18K yellow gold; the colour comes from the insert. Pepsi (red and blue) does not appear as a factory option on the 16718 — that exists on the steel 16710 only. | |||
A factory pavé-diamond bezel for the 16718 does not surface in the surveyed auction-house corpus. Diamond-set bezels do exist on 16718 cases in the dealer market but circulate as aftermarket conversions rather than factory configurations. Treat any "factory diamond bezel 16718" claim as unverified pending a primary catalog or Rolex archive citation; aftermarket bezels are common on the 16718 in the gold-watch dealer market. | |||
<span id=" | <span id="bracelets-end-links-and-clasps"></span> | ||
== | == Bracelets, end links, and clasps == | ||
[[File:Ref 16718 gold-oyster.webp|thumb|right|280px|alt=Gold Oyster bracelet|Gold Oyster bracelet]] | |||
Two factory 18K bracelet options on the 16718: | |||
* '''18K Oyster 78368''' — three-link, sport-leaning configuration. More often paired with black-dial sport configurations. | |||
* '''18K Jubilee 8386''' (sometimes hidden-clasp "Super Jubilee") — five-link, dressier configuration. More often paired with serti and rootbeer dials. | |||
Clasps are 18K Fliplock Oyster or hidden-crown Jubilee. Bracelet codes (78368 Oyster, 8386 Jubilee) date the bracelet, not the watch head — a clasp dating later than the case head implies a swap or service replacement. Both bracelet options run across the entire 1989–2005 production window with no clean delivery split by year. | |||
<span id="historical-market-and-auction-record"></span> | <span id="historical-market-and-auction-record"></span> | ||
== Historical market and auction record == | == Historical market and auction record == | ||
{| class="wikitable sortable" | |||
|- | |||
! Sale !! Lot !! Year of watch !! Configuration !! Result | |||
|- | |||
| Phillips Geneva Watch Auction XIV || 148 || 2021 || rootbeer dial with brown insert, full Rolex service April 2021, engraved-Rolex caseback intact || login-gated | |||
|- | |||
| Phillips Hong Kong Watch Auction SEVEN || 956 || 2018 || c.1990 18K yellow gold, early production || login-gated | |||
|- | |||
| Sotheby's Watches || — || 2020 || yellow-gold automatic dual time || login-gated | |||
|- | |||
| EveryWatch aggregate || Rare Watches lot 207 || — || 1989 champagne dial || aggregate | |||
|- | |||
| EveryWatch / Watches Online: The Geneva Edit || — || — || c.1989 (catalog "1985" likely typo) || aggregate | |||
|} | |||
The 16718 trades on the gold-watch dealer market more than at major auction. The Phillips Geneva XIV 2021 lot is the strongest single auction-house anchor on the documented record. Standard black-and-Jubilee or rootbeer-and-Jubilee examples cluster across a higher band than the steel 16710 driven by the gold-case material content. Serti gem-set examples sit in their own tier above the standard market — the 16713 and 16718 are the only GMT references with the factory serti option, which the gold variant carries with the most documented collector demand. | |||
== Sources == | == Sources == | ||
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/history-rolex-gmt-master-and-gmt-master-ii-1955-2024-iconic-traveller-watch-in-depth-review/ In-Depth: The History of the Rolex GMT-Master and GMT-Master II] (Monochrome) | |||
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/articles/the-rolex-gmt-master-the-complete-collectors-guide The Rolex GMT-Master: A Complete Collector's Guide] — Stephen Pulvirent (Sotheby's) | |||
* [https://www.fratellowatches.com/tbt-rolex-gmt-master-16718/ #TBT Rolex GMT Master 16718] (Fratello) | |||
* [https://watchbase.com/rolex/gmt-master/16718 Rolex GMT-Master 16718 reference page] (Watchbase) | |||
* [https://www.chrono24.com/magazine/golden-boy-with-retro-flair-the-new-rolex-yellow-gold-gmt-master-ii-p_114312/ Golden Boy with Retro Flair: The New Rolex Yellow Gold GMT-Master II] (Chrono24 Magazine) | |||
* [https://watchesoff5th.com/blogs/news/closer-look-at-the-discontinued-rolex-gmt-master-ii-in-yellow-gold Closer Look at the Discontinued Rolex GMT-Master II in Yellow Gold] (Watches Off 5th) | |||
* [https://www.swisswatchexpo.com/thewatchclub/2024/01/02/rolex-gmt-master-ii-yellow-gold-and-rolesor-yellow-gold-editions/ Rolex GMT-Master II Yellow Gold and Rolesor Yellow Gold Editions] (SwissWatchExpo) | |||
* [https://www.grayandsons.com/blog/the-history-and-evolution-of-the-rolex-gmt-master-ii/ The History and Evolution of the Rolex GMT-Master II] (Gray & Sons) | |||
* [https://www.grayandsons.com/blog/watch-talk-what-are-rolex-serti-dials/ What Are Rolex Serti Dials?] (Gray & Sons) | |||
* [https://www.bobswatches.com/rolex-blog/watch-review/5-unforgettable-examples-serti-dial.html 5 Unforgettable Examples of Serti Dials] (Bob's Watches) | |||
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/rolex-gmt-master-ii-steel-yellow-gold-two-tone-rolesor-126713grnr-hands-on-review-price/ Rolex GMT-Master II 126713GRNR hands-on review] (Monochrome) | |||
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080221/148 Rolex 16718 rootbeer — Phillips Geneva XIV lot 148] (Phillips, 2021) | |||
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/HK080218/956 Rolex 16718 c.1990 — Phillips Hong Kong SEVEN lot 956] (Phillips, 2018) | |||
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2020/watches/rolex-gmt-master-ii-ref-16718-a-yellow-gold Rolex GMT-Master II Ref. 16718 — Sotheby's Watches] (Sotheby's, 2020) | |||
* [https://everywatch.com/rolex/16718/watch-9016154 1989 16718 champagne dial Rare Watches lot 207] (EveryWatch) | |||
* [https://watch.the1916company.com/videos/rolex-gmt-master-ii-jubilee-16718-review Rolex GMT-Master II Jubilee 16718 review] (The 1916 Company) | |||
* [https://www.bernardwatch.com/Rolex/GMT-Master-II/RLX5804 Rolex 16718 champagne Serti dial] (Bernard Watch) | |||
* [https://thekeystone.com/products/rolex-yellow-gold-gmt-master-diamond-ruby-watch-ref-16718 Rolex Yellow Gold GMT-Master Diamond Ruby Ref. 16718] (The Keystone) | |||
* [https://www.bobswatches.com/rolex-gmt-master-ii-16718-jubilee-18k-yellow-gold.html Rolex GMT-Master II 16718 Jubilee 18K Yellow Gold] (Bob's Watches) | |||
* [https://www.bobswatches.com/pre-owned-rolex-gmt-master-ii-16718-serti-dial.html Rolex GMT-Master II 16718 Serti Dial] (Bob's Watches) | |||
* [https://www.swisswatchexpo.com/watches/rolex-gmt-master-rootbeer-18k-yellow-gold-vintage-mens-watch-16718-32175/ Rolex GMT-Master Rootbeer 18K Yellow Gold 16718] (SwissWatchExpo) | |||
* [https://www.jaztime.com/rolex-gmt-master-ii-yellow-gold-black-dial-oyster-bracelet-116718ln 116718LN Yellow Gold Black Dial] (Jaztime) | |||
* ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' — Colin A. White, Morning Tundra | * ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' — Colin A. White, Morning Tundra | ||
[[Category:GMT-Master]] | [[Category:GMT-Master]] | ||
[[Category:Working Draft]] | [[Category:Working Draft]] | ||