Rolex Day-Date 18049
Day-Date → 18049
The 18049 is the white-gold Day-Date with a diamond-set bezel in the five-digit, caliber-3055 generation. Its yellow-gold counterpart is the 18048. Auction catalogues date individual examples from circa 1978 through circa 1988. Those lot dates do not establish the reference’s production boundaries or a complete factory dial list.
Core facts
| detail | value |
|---|---|
| reference | 18049 |
| family | Day-Date |
| production | Five-digit caliber-3055 generation, generally dated 1977–1988; exact 18049 start and end dates are not established |
| movement | caliber 3055, 27 jewels, 28,800 vph; date quickset, day advances with the hands |
| case | 18k white gold; auction records usually give 36 mm |
| bezel | diamond-set; Antiquorum counts 44 stones on one example |
| crystal | sapphire with Cyclops |
| bracelet | white-gold President; Antiquorum identifies bracelet 8385 on one example |
| crown | screw-down |
| related references | 18048 (yellow-gold diamond bezel), 18039 (white-gold fluted bezel), 18079 (white-gold bark finish), and 1804 (earlier gem-set Day-Date) |
| successor | 18348 in yellow gold and 18349 in white gold, from the caliber-3155 generation |
Where it sits in the line
The 18049 belongs to the Day-Date generation that replaced the four-digit models in the late 1970s. Reference 1804 is the earlier gem-set model. The five-digit siblings split by metal and finish: 18048 has a yellow-gold diamond bezel, 18039 a white-gold fluted bezel, and 18079 a white-gold bark finish. The caliber-3155 generation followed in 1988; its diamond-bezel references include 18348 in yellow gold and 18349 in white gold.
Production outline
Auction catalogues date individual 18049 examples from circa 1978 through circa 1988, within the broader five-digit group usually dated 1977–1988. These lot dates do not establish the 18049’s exact first or last production year.
Movement notes
The 18049 uses caliber 3055, with 27 jewels and a frequency of 28,800 vph. Its quickset corrects the date; the day advances when the hands pass midnight. The movement also has hacking seconds. A 2002 Antiquorum catalogue describes a 3055 with 30 jewels, unlike the 27-jewel specification in the Movement reference and later lot records. That older listing is an outlier, not a basis for changing the caliber specification.
Dial map
Auction records show several dial treatments. The table identifies individual watches, not a complete Rolex offering.
| catalogue date | dial and markers | record |
|---|---|---|
| late 1970s | Grey dial with eight round and two baguette diamond indexes | Antiquorum, 2002, lot 398 |
| circa 1978 | Burgundy dial with round and baguette diamond markers | Christie’s, lot 4404032 |
| circa 1978 | Salmon dial with diamond-set indexes | Sotheby’s, 2023, lot 88 |
| circa 1980 | Silvered dial with baguette sapphire numerals on a diamond-set chapter ring | Christie’s, lot 4814219 |
| circa 1981 | Silvered diamond-index dial with the Khanjar emblem | Christie’s, Dubai, lot 89 |
| circa 1983 | Blue dégradé lacquer dial | Sotheby’s, 2023, lot 723 |
| circa 1984 | Salmon/caramel dial with diamond indexes | Antiquorum, 2023, lot 98 |
| circa 1988 | Baby-green lacquer dial with eight round diamond indexes and baguettes at six and nine | Christie’s, lot 6558374 |
| 1979 | Red Stella lacquer dial with brilliant- and baguette-cut diamond indexes; Khanjar engraved on the caseback | Monaco Legend, 2022, lot 270 |
These catalogues document examples with sapphire numerals, lacquer, and the Khanjar on either the dial or caseback. They do not provide a full factory dial list or production totals.
Case, bezel, crystal, and crown
The case is 18k white gold with a screw-down back and crown. The crystal is sapphire with a Cyclops date magnifier. Most cited auction descriptions give a 36 mm diameter; Christie’s measured one circa-1978 example at 35 mm. Keep that figure attached to its lot rather than treating it as a settled reference specification.
The diamond bezel defines the reference. Antiquorum described 44 diamonds on its late-1970s example; other catalogues describe the bezel as diamond-set without giving a count. A stone count from one watch does not establish every bezel’s setting.
Bracelet and clasp
Auctioned examples use white-gold President bracelets. Antiquorum identifies an 8385 bracelet on its circa-1984 example; other catalogues describe a concealed or folding clasp. Loupe This also photographed an 18049 head on a bark-finish President bracelet and called the bracelet factory-finished. That listing documents the pairing, but it does not establish original delivery of that bracelet with the watch head. A clasp code dates the bracelet, not the case.
Khanjar examples
Two auction records show different placements of the Omani Khanjar emblem. Christie’s describes it on the dial of its circa-1981 18049. Monaco Legend’s 1979 red-Stella example is catalogued with the emblem engraved on the caseback. Neither catalogue establishes a direct commission from Sultan Qaboos or the watch’s original recipient.
Christie’s listed a service card dated 28 November 2022 from Khimji Ramdas in Muscat, an Asprey presentation box, and a diamond ring with its Khanjar-dial watch. Those items document what accompanied the lot at auction. The catalogue does not say that the card or box proves the watch’s original delivery or commission.
Auction record
These four sales cover different dials, dates, and accessories. Their prices are in different currencies and do not define a market range.
| sale date | house and lot | configuration | result |
|---|---|---|---|
| Sep 2002 | Antiquorum New York, lot 398 | Late-1970s grey dial with diamond indexes; 44-stone bezel | USD 11,500 |
| Apr 2022 | Monaco Legend, lot 270 | 1979 red Stella dial with diamond indexes; Khanjar engraved on caseback | EUR 262,500, including premium |
| 2023 | Christie’s Dubai, lot 89 | Circa-1981 silvered diamond-index dial with Khanjar emblem | USD 52,920 |
| Jun 2023 | Antiquorum Hong Kong, lot 98 | Circa-1984 salmon/caramel dial with diamond indexes | HKD 143,750 |
Related references
- Day-Date 18048, yellow-gold diamond bezel
- Day-Date 18039, white-gold fluted bezel
- Day-Date 18079, white-gold bark finish
- Day-Date 1804, earlier gem-set Day-Date
- Day-Date 18038, yellow-gold fluted model with caliber 3055
- Day-Date 18348, caliber-3155 generation, yellow-gold diamond bezel
See also the Day-Date family index, movement reference, bracelet and clasp guide, and serial-number guide.
-
Circa-1981 white-gold 18049 with Khanjar dial; Christie’s also catalogued the diamond ring shown in the photograph -
Circa-1984 white-gold 18049 with salmon/caramel dial and diamond-set bezel -
Angled view of Antiquorum’s circa-1984 salmon/caramel dial and bezel
Sources
- Antiquorum, "Rolex Ref. 18049 Day-Date, 18k white gold with diamond bezel and salmon diamond dial — Antiquorum Hong Kong, lot 98", Antiquorum, 2023-06-13
- Christie's, "Rolex Day-Date Ref. 18049, white gold and diamond-set with Omani Khanjar dial — Christie's Watches Online: The Dubai Edit, lot 89", Christie's, 2023
- Antiquorum, "Rolex Day-Date 18049, late-1970s grey diamond dial — Antiquorum New York lot 398", Antiquorum, 2002-09-25
- Christie’s, "Rolex ref. 18049 with burgundy diamond dial — Christie’s lot 4404032", Christie’s, 2004-12-15
- Christie’s, "Rolex ref. 18049 with sapphire numerals — Christie’s lot 4814219", Christie’s
- Sotheby’s, "Rolex ref. 18049 with salmon diamond-index dial — Sotheby’s Important Watches 2023, lot 88", Sotheby’s, 2023
- Sotheby’s, "Rolex ref. 18049 blue dégradé dial — Sotheby’s Fine Watches 2023, lot 723", Sotheby’s, 2023
- Monaco Legend Auctions, "Rolex ref. 18049 red Stella and Khanjar caseback — Monaco Legend, lot 270", Monaco Legend Auctions, 2022-04-23
- Loupe This, "Rolex Day-Date 18049, white gold with diamond dial and bezel on a bark-finish bracelet — Loupe This, lot 2928", Loupe This
- The Vintage Rolex Field Manual — Colin A. White, Morning Tundra
- Bob's Watches editorial, "Quickset Vintage Day-Date Models", Bob's Watches
- Christie’s, "Rolex Day-Date 18049 baby-green Stella dial — Christie’s lot 6558374", Christie’s