Rolex Submarine Hermetique 3666
Reference:3666
Pre-Oyster and Bubbleback index › 3666
Catalogue records use ref. 3666 for two watches: a 1920s silver Hermetique with a hinged inner case and a separate 1940 antimagnetic chronograph. This page covers the earlier watch; surviving listings date examples to 1924 and circa 1925.
Core facts
| detail | value |
|---|---|
| reference | 3666 |
| catalogue names | “Submarine Hermetique” (Bold Timepieces); “Hermetique” or “Hermetic” (Bonhams and Watches of Knightsbridge) |
| dated examples | 1924 (Cargills listing); circa 1925 (Bonhams); 1920s (Watches of Knightsbridge) |
| case | threaded outer shell with hinged inner watch |
| documented material | sterling silver in the cited 1920s ref. 3666 records |
| diameter | 32mm in the Cargills and Bonhams records; 33mm in the Watches of Knightsbridge catalogue |
| movement | manual, 15 jewels; Rolex Prima in the Cargills and Watches of Knightsbridge descriptions; caliber number not identified |
| documented dials | enamel or silvered dials with Arabic numerals and subsidiary seconds; one catalogue describes an engine-turned dial with cathedral hands |
| production span | dated examples fall in 1924 and circa 1925; full span undetermined |
Where it sits in the line
Rolex dates the launch of its Submarine to 1922 and describes a watch hinged inside a second case whose bezel and crystal screw down to close the outer shell. A Swiss registration reproduced by RolexMagazine shows Hans Wilsdorf's “The Submarine” trademark dated 31 March 1922. Jean Finger received Swiss patent CH 89276 for a protective watch case in January 1921; Wilsdorf's British patent GB 197208 was filed in May 1922 and granted in May 1923. David Boettcher also documents similar Hermetic cases made by other firms, including Borgel.
The names vary. Bold Timepieces calls the Cargills watch “Submarine Hermetique”; Bonhams and Watches of Knightsbridge call theirs “Hermetique” or “Hermetic.” Boettcher uses Submarine for watches sold without the Rolex name and “Rolex Hermetic” for signed examples. Bold Timepieces reports Rolex signatures on the Cargills case, dial and movement.
Case construction
The outer bezel unscrews to expose the inner watch, which pivots on a hinge so its crown can be reached for winding or setting. Rolex describes the closed outer case as watertight. Boettcher says the seal mainly protected against dust and moisture and was not highly pressure-resistant. The catalogues describe the case without assigning a depth rating.
The Cargills listing describes a sterling-silver case measuring 32mm. Bonhams records another silver 3666 at 32mm; Watches of Knightsbridge gives 33mm for its example. For the Cargills watch, Bold Timepieces reports a replacement crystal, says the crown appears original, and lists 12mm wire lugs. The listing shows it on a new single-piece leather strap.
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The inner watch pivoted out of its outer shell. -
The inner caseback carries Rolex, 0.925 and 3666 markings.
Movement notes
Bold Timepieces identifies the Cargills movement as a 15-jewel Rolex Prima and says it is marked for adjustment in six positions and temperature. Watches of Knightsbridge also catalogues a 15-jewel Rolex Prima movement. Boettcher describes Prima as a movement grade; the cited catalogues identify ref. 3666 movements by grade, with no caliber number given.
Dial examples
The catalogues describe these three dial layouts:
| example | catalogue description | source |
|---|---|---|
| Cargills Ceylon, listed as 1924 | sector enamel dial, black Arabic numerals and subsidiary seconds; retailer and Rolex signatures reported by the seller | Bold Timepieces |
| Bonhams, circa 1925 | white dial, luminous Arabic numerals and subsidiary seconds | Bonhams, sale 29150, lot 48 |
| Watches of Knightsbridge, 1920s | silver engine-turned dial, Arabic numerals, subsidiary seconds and cathedral hands | Watches of Knightsbridge, catalogue lot 376 |
Other records using 3666
Christie's 1910s listing is titled “No. 3666” and describes a silver Hermetique. Its wording leaves unclear whether 3666 is a reference or catalogue number.
Phillips' 1940 catalogue identifies a separate watch as ref. 3666: a 36mm stainless-steel antimagnetic chronograph with a two-register dial and manual Valjoux 22 movement, 17 jewels. Phillips records case number 041'928 and a result of CHF 162,500 in 2016.
Auction record
| sale or listing | date / catalogue date | identifying details | result |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bold Timepieces | listed as 1924 | Cargills Ceylon retailer signature; sterling silver; 32mm; 15-jewel manual Rolex Prima | dealer listing; sale status not stated |
| Bonhams, sale 29150, lot 48 | 21 February 2024; circa 1925 | silver ref. 3666; manual 15-jewel movement; 32mm | GBP 2,816 including premium |
| Watches of Knightsbridge, catalogue lot 376 | catalogue describes a 1920s watch | sterling silver; 15-jewel manual Rolex Prima; engine-turned dial; 33mm | estimate GBP 800–1,200 |
| Phillips, Geneva Watch Auction: Four, lot 54 | 12 November 2016; 1940 | separate stainless-steel antimagnetic chronograph; Valjoux 22, 17 jewels; 36mm; case 041'928 | CHF 162,500 |
Related references
Gallery
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Silver ref. 3666 Hermetique, circa 1925, Bonhams lot 48 -
Cargills Ceylon enamel dial and Rolex signatures -
Inner watch pivoted out of the hinged outer case
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Rolex, 0.925 and 3666 markings on the inner caseback
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15-jewel Rolex Prima movement from the Cargills example -
Separate 1940 antimagnetic chronograph catalogued as ref. 3666
Sources
- Rolex, “Mastering waterproofness” — Rolex's 1922 Submarine chronology and description of the hinged case.
- RolexMagazine, “The First Rolex Submariner 1922 Hermetically Sealed Pre-Oyster” — reproduces the Swiss “The Submarine” registration dated 31 March 1922.
- David Boettcher, “Rolex Hermetic” — Finger and Wilsdorf patent records, case construction and examples by other makers.
- David Boettcher, “Rolex Submarine?” — trademark history and the distinction he draws between Submarine- and Rolex-branded Hermetics.
- David Boettcher, “Rolex Prima, Extra and Ultra Prima” — movement-grade terminology and surviving Prima examples.
- Bold Timepieces, “1924 Rolex Submarine Hermetique, ref. 3666, Cargills Ltd. Ceylon” — one silver example, its markings, dial, movement and dimensions.
- Bonhams, sale 29150, lot 48 — circa-1925 ref. 3666. Collector Square lot record gives measurements and result.
- Watches of Knightsbridge, catalogue lot 376 — 1920s silver ref. 3666, dial, case, movement and estimate.
- Phillips, Geneva Watch Auction: Four, lot 54 — 1940 antimagnetic chronograph catalogued as ref. 3666.
- Christie's, “Signed Rolex, model Hermetique, No. 3666, 1910s” — an earlier catalogue use of “No. 3666.”