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Rolex Bracelet Reference

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Main Page › Bracelets, End Links, Clasps, Link Types

This guide identifies Oyster, Jubilee and President bracelets, their end links and clasp markings. Use it to compare a bracelet with the documented fittings for a watch reference. Each table row links to a photographed component; the galleries below keep a larger view and show the markings or construction where the source image allows it.

A clasp code dates the bracelet; the case has its own serial-number dating. Parts sheets and auction catalogues show documented fittings. Establishing original delivery requires evidence from the individual watch.

A matching bracelet number is not enough by itself: end-link shape, lug width, clasp construction, case reference and service history all matter. The tables below record documented pairings rather than a universal compatibility guarantee.

Quick jump

Bracelet refs
7206 78360 78390 93150 97200 9315
End links
503 580 557 integral modern
Clasps
Oysterlock vintage Oysterlock modern Glidelock Easylink
Link types
rivet folded solid Oyster Jubilee President

Bracelets by reference

Dates below come from dated parts sheets or individual records, so they describe documented examples rather than complete production runs. Parts sheets identify components; auction catalogues record the bracelet fitted when a watch was offered. An individual watch needs its own evidence for original delivery.

Ref Name Period / evidence Link type End links Documented applications Notes Image
6635 Oyster stretch rivet, 19mm Vintage Stretch rivet 57; check individual fitting Chronographs, Air-King The links expand; the 7205 uses fixed links.  
7205 Oyster rivet, 19mm Vintage Rivet 271; 57 / 357 on documented Air-Kings Daytona, Air-King The 7206 is the 20mm counterpart. A US-made C&I bracelet requires its own identification; lack of a Swiss bracelet number does not by itself make it an aftermarket part.  
7206 Oyster rivet, 20mm Vintage Rivet 58, 60, 80; application varies Submariner, GMT-Master, Explorer Compare end-link shape and case reference. The number alone does not establish original delivery.  
72400 Oyster bracelet, 20mm Listed for 116400 in Rolex USA 2011 price list Three-piece Not specified in cited list Milgauss 116400 The list identifies the bracelet/reference pairing, not original delivery on an individual watch.  
9315 Oyster folded link, 20mm Listed in Rolex parts sheet, 1985 Folded 280 / 285 fixed; 380 / 385 removable Submariner, Sea-Dweller Rolex sheet 321-6 shows the folded-link construction and alternative end fittings.  
7835 Oyster folded link, 19mm Vintage Folded 271; 357 on documented Air-Kings Daytona, Air-King For 20mm cases, compare the wider bracelet references and inspect the end-link stamp.  
7836 Oyster folded link, 20mm Vintage; parts shared in 1985 sheet Folded 380 GMT-Master, Explorer Rolex sheet 321-6 identifies parts shared with the 9315. Sharing parts does not make the two bracelet references interchangeable.  
78350 Oyster solid link, 19mm Listed in Rolex parts sheet, 1985 Solid 557, 571 Daytona, Air-King Sheet 322-8 specifies the 78350-19 and its steel end links. A separate 17mm version exists.  
78360 Oyster solid link, 20mm 1970s onward; reference-dependent Solid 503 on 16520; 580 on other documented fittings Daytona, GMT-Master, Explorer The Daytona later changed to polished-centre bracelets. That change does not date the end of all 78360 production.  
78390 Oyster solid link, 20mm Middle part of the 16520 run Solid 503B Daytona Polished centre links distinguish it from the brushed 78360. The Blackbird Watch Manual describes the 16520 progression.  
78390A Oyster solid link with solid end links, 20mm Late 16520 production Solid Solid end links Daytona Distinguish the solid end links from the separate hollow 503B fittings of the 78390.  
78490 Oyster with solid end links, 20mm 116520 generation Solid Solid end links Daytona 116520 Phillips lot 202605 records a 116520 with a clasp stamped 78490 and an April 2006 guarantee. The 78690 belongs to a different documented application.  
78690 Oyster with solid end links, 20mm 114270 generation Solid Solid end links Explorer 114270 Phillips Hong Kong 2022 lot 8012 records 78690 on a 114270 with a November 2010 guarantee.  
78790 Oyster, 20mm 1990s–2000s; reference-dependent Solid Hollow end links; check watch reference GMT-Master, Explorer Distinguish 78790 from 78790A, the version with solid end links.  
93150 Oyster solid link, 20mm Listed in 1985; continued into later references Solid 501, 580, 585, 593 in the 1985 sheet Submariner, Sea-Dweller Rolex sheet 323-3 separates steel 93150 fittings from Rolesor 93153 fittings. It does not establish a universal case pairing or a 1990 end date.  
62510H Jubilee, 20mm, steel Listed in Rolex parts sheet, 1985 Jubilee 502, 550, 555; 502B on the cited GMT lot Datejust, GMT-Master Sheet 322-4 distinguishes steel 62510H from Rolesor 62523H. Phillips records a 62510H with 502B end links on a 1675. That auction pairing does not prove original delivery.  
93250 Oyster with solid end links, 20mm, steel 16610 generation Solid 801 on the cited example Submariner 16610 Phillips lot 146024 records a steel 16610 with 93250, 801 end links and a DT3 clasp. It is not a two-tone predecessor of 78363.  
78363 Oyster, 20mm, steel and yellow gold Five-digit generation Solid Hollow end links; check exact fitting Daytona 16523, GMT-Master The 78363 is the steel-and-gold Daytona bracelet, separate from the steel Submariner 93250. The later polished-centre Daytona bracelet is 78393; its timing does not date the 78363 changeover.  
8385 President, 20mm, gold Vintage Day-Date generation President Check the individual bracelet Day-Date President end fittings need their own identification; 455 appears in the Rolex sheet for Rolesor Jubilee 62523H.  
78668 Oyster solid link, 20mm (18k yellow gold) 1988–~1994 Solid 103 Daytona The gold Daytona 16528 bracelet through the first half of the run, with a deployant clasp and no flip-lock. Not a gold casting of the steel 78360 and it does not share that part number: Christie’s catalogues ref. 16528 case R985336 with "deployant clasp stamped 78668, endlinks stamped 103", and Antiquorum records 78668 with an M12 clasp on case R985236. Clasp codes observed are M-series, 1988. An inferred "78368" circulated in older scaffolds and is attested nowhere.  
78398 Oyster solid link, 20mm (18k yellow gold, later run) ~1995–2000 Solid 193 Daytona Successor to 78668 on the gold 16528 case. Phillips catalogues ref. 16528 case X435057 with the bracelet "stamped '193' to the endlinks" and the clasp "stamped '78398' and 'T12'". T12 (1995) is the earliest documented 78398 code while 78668 still appears on 1993-era clasps, so the changeover sits in a loose 1993–1995 band rather than on the steel 78360 → 78390 line. That Phillips bracelet post-dates its 1991 X-serial case, a reminder that the clasp code dates the bracelet only.  
97200 Oyster, 20mm, steel 40mm ceramic Submariner generation Solid Solid end links Submariner 116610LN / 116610LV Glidelock clasp. Phillips lot 232849 documents 97200 on a 116610LN. Other watch families and the later 41mm Submariner use different bracelet references.  
97203 Oyster, 20mm, steel and yellow gold 40mm ceramic Submariner generation Solid Solid end links Submariner 116613 Glidelock clasp. Check the exact bracelet number when comparing later 41mm references.  
97208 Oyster, 20mm, yellow gold 40mm ceramic Submariner generation Solid Solid end links Submariner 116618 Lepage records bracelet 97208 on its photographed 116618LB.  
97209 Oyster, 20mm, white gold 40mm ceramic Submariner generation Solid Solid end links Submariner 116619 Gaston & Sheehan lot 75 records bracelet 97209 on a white-gold 116619.  

End links

End links connect the bracelet to the case lugs. Match their shape and markings to the bracelet and case reference. Read letter suffixes against dated parts sheets and pictured examples; they do not encode finish or construction consistently. The table gives documented pairings, not a complete fitment chart.

Ref Bracelet Case application Construction Evidence Notes Image
58 7206 Vintage 20mm Oyster cases Hollow Collector reference tables Check the particular case; not a 9315 end link.  
60 7206 Vintage 20mm Oyster cases Hollow Collector reference tables Case-specific fitting needs comparison; not a 9315 end link.  
80 7206 Submariner and other documented 20mm cases Hollow Collector reference tables Rivet-bracelet fitting; the stamp is not a production-year code.  
271 7205, 7835 19mm chronograph cases Hollow Collector reference tables Inspect the actual stamp and compare it with a photograph of the fitting.  
380 9315, 7836 20mm cases; fitting varies Hollow Rolex sheet 321-6, 1985 Listed with the folded-link 9315; the sheet also identifies shared 7836 parts.  
455 62523H Rolesor Jubilee applications Hollow Rolex sheet 322-4, 1985 The sheet lists 455 with Rolesor 62523H, not steel 62510H or President 8385.  
501 93150 Specific case fitment varies Hollow Rolex sheet 323-3, 1985 The 1985 sheet lists 501 with the steel 93150. Match the fitting to the case and bracelet.  
501B 78360, 93150 Explorer II 16550 catalogue and fitment-table examples Hollow Vintage Rolex Field Manual; Antiquorum example Published fitment evidence; it does not establish original delivery on every watch.  
502B 62510H GMT-Master 1675 in the cited lot Hollow Phillips Geneva 2018, lot 19 Phillips records it on a Jubilee bracelet. The lot includes a 2005 service guarantee, so it documents that watch’s recorded configuration.  
503 78360 Daytona 16520 Hollow Blackbird Watch Manual; Field Manual Brushed-bracelet fitting.  
503B 78390 Daytona 16520 Hollow Blackbird Watch Manual; Field Manual Polished-centre bracelet fitting. Do not treat it as the solid end link of the 78390A.  
571 78350-19 19mm Daytona applications Hollow Rolex sheet 322-8, 1985 The parts sheet establishes the bracelet/end-link pairing; an individual case needs its own fitment evidence.  
580 93150; also 78360 in collector tables Submariner; other 20mm applications vary Hollow Rolex sheet 323-3; collector reference tables A solid-link bracelet can still have hollow end links.  
585 93150 Sea-Dweller Hollow Rolex sheet 323-3; collector reference tables The sheet lists the part; collector reference tables identify the Sea-Dweller application.  
integral-modern Bracelet-specific Match the exact watch and bracelet references Solid Modern reference specifications Solid end links describe construction rather than a universal part number. Check the exact bracelet and case references, especially across the 40mm and 41mm Submariner generations.  
57 Vintage 19mm Oyster Air-King 5500 in the cited lot Hollow Phillips Geneva 2016, lot 22 The cited catalogue records both 57 and 357 markings on one bracelet; that example alone cannot date a general changeover.  
357 Vintage 19mm Oyster Air-King 5500 in the cited lot Hollow Phillips Geneva 2016, lot 22 The cited Air-King has 19mm lugs; the Explorer 1016 has 20mm lugs.  
557 78350-19 19mm Air-King applications Hollow Rolex sheet 322-8, 1985 The sheet documents this bracelet and end-link pairing. Any change to solid end links around the 14000 launch needs separate dated evidence.  

Clasps

Clasp markings use a separate dating system from case serial numbers. Identify the clasp generation before reading its stamp against a date table.

Generation overview

Generation Years Refs that used it Distinguishing features
Vintage folding clasp Reference-dependent Rivet and folded Oyster bracelets Stamped folding blades. Logo and date-stamp variations need comparison with the same bracelet type.
Vintage safety clasp Reference-dependent 93150; later Daytona bracelet variants The extra safety latch distinguishes it from a plain folding clasp. Not every 78350 or 78360 has one.
Modern Oysterlock / Oysterclasp Reference-dependent Modern reference-specific bracelets Oysterlock names a safety clasp; Oysterclasp does not necessarily have that extra latch. Identify the extension mechanism separately.
Easylink Reference-dependent Selected Oyster bracelets A folding comfort link adds approximately 5mm. It is not fitted to every modern sports bracelet.
Glidelock Reference-dependent Submariner; selected Oysterflex references A sliding adjustment system. The Submariner version offers about 20mm in 2mm steps; the current Daytona 126515LN also uses Glidelock with Oysterflex.

Daytona clasp changes depend on the bracelet generation. Inspect the bracelet number, folding blade and safety latch together; a logo alone does not establish the year.

Date-code key

The dates below follow a widely-used collector chart, also reproduced in The Vintage Rolex Field Manual. They are estimates, not Rolex production records. Some mid-1990s letters appear against more than one year. A standalone S can be a 1994 date code; do not call a clasp a service replacement from that letter alone.

Code Year Code Year Code Year
A 1976 M 1988 DT 2002
B 1977 N 1989 AD 2003
C 1978 O 1990 CL 2004
D 1979 P 1991 MA 2005
E 1980 Q 1992 OP 2006
F 1981 R 1993 EO 2007
G 1982 S 1994 PJ 2008
H 1983 T or W 1995 LT 2009
I 1984 U or V 1996 RS 2010
J 1985 U or Z 1997 CP 2011
K 1986 W or Z 1998 (random) 2011 onward
L 1987 X 1999
AB 2000
DE 2001

Do not read a clasp letter against the case-serial chart. The two systems use some of the same letters for different periods. Later randomized clasp codes have no public year mapping; the bracelet reference and clasp construction remain useful for identification.

Earlier clasps commonly use quarter-and-year stamps. For example, I.65 reads as the first quarter of 1965. Stamp formats vary; compare the complete marking with documented examples of the same clasp.

Link construction types

Rivet, folded and solid describe link construction. Oyster, Jubilee and President describe bracelet designs. Keep the two distinctions separate when identifying a bracelet; an Oyster bracelet can use different construction depending on its period.

Style Years Identifying features Bracelet refs using
Rivet Vintage Rivet heads are visible along the sides. Stretch and fixed-link versions need separate identification. 6635, 7205, 7206
Folded Vintage Folded sheet-metal links without exposed side rivets. 7835, 7836, 9315
Solid link Reference-dependent Solid link bodies; end links can still be hollow. Check centre-link construction separately on precious-metal and Rolesor variants. 78350, 78360, 78390, 93150, 93250 and later Oyster references
Jubilee From 1945 Five-piece link design. Construction varies by generation. 62510H; Rolesor 62523H
Oyster Reference-dependent Three-piece link design, made in riveted, folded and solid-link versions. 7206, 7836, 78360, 97200 and others
President From 1956 Three-piece links with a rounded profile, in gold or platinum. Precious-metal content does not mean every vintage link is solid throughout. 8385 and later President references
Pearlmaster From 1992 Five-piece rounded-link design; gem setting depends on the version. Reference-specific
Oysterflex From 2015 Elastomer over flexible metal blades. The extension system depends on the watch: Rolex specifies Glidelock for the current Daytona 126515LN. Reference-specific

Component images

These photographs show the bracelet and end-link forms listed above. A photograph documents the pictured part; it does not by itself prove original delivery on a particular watch.

Bracelet references

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    6635 bracelet
  •  
    7205 bracelet
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    7206 bracelet
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    7835 bracelet
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    7836 bracelet
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    78350 bracelet
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    78360 bracelet
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    78390 bracelet
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    78390A bracelet
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    78490 bracelet
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    78690 bracelet
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    78790 bracelet
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    93150 bracelet
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    93250 bracelet
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    78363 bracelet
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    62510H bracelet
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    9315 bracelet
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    8385 bracelet
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    78668 bracelet
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    78398 bracelet
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    97200 bracelet; labelled reference-sheet image
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    97203 bracelet
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    97208 bracelet; labelled reference-sheet image
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    97209 bracelet
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    72400 bracelet

End-link references

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    271 end link
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    58 end link
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    60 end link
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    80 end link
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    380 end link
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    455 end link
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    501 end link; identity lead, stamp not legible in this frame
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    501B end link
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    502B end link; stamp visible, OEM status unverified
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    503 end link
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    503B end link; identity lead, stamp not legible in this frame
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    580 end link
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    585 end link
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    571 end link; identity lead, stamp not legible in this frame
  •  
    integral-modern end link; construction example (pictured part marked 97200)
  •  
    57 end link
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    357 end link
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    557 end link

Sources



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