Rolex Submariner

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The Submariner is Rolex's dive-watch family, with an elapsed-time bezel and versions with and without a date. Rolex dates its origin to 1953. The line includes early watches without crown guards, acrylic-crystal models such as the 5512 and 5513, and later sapphire-crystal references. The ceramic-bezel generation began with gold models in 2008.

Vintage Rolex Submariner advertisement
Vintage Rolex Submariner advertisement

Common entry points

Vintage no-date models
A no-date Submariner with gilt, matte and later glossy dials with white-gold hour-marker surrounds.
Early Submariner Date
The first Submariner with a date, with early red SUBMARINER text and later white-text dials.
Sapphire and aluminium
A five-digit Submariner Date with caliber 3135, a sapphire crystal and an aluminium bezel insert.

Early models without crown guards

Early references differ in crown size, depth rating, hands and dial layout. Periods below are approximate; the linked reference pages discuss conflicting dates and individual examples. SS means steel, YG yellow gold and WG white gold. The early family page compares the 6204, 6205, 6200, 6536, 6536/1 and 6538.

Reference Approximate period Movement Depth Case Key distinction
6204 1953–1954 A260 100m Steel Early pencil-style hands; gilt dials
6205 1954–1955 A260 100m Steel Dials with and without SUBMARINER; pencil or Mercedes hands
6200 Mid-1950s A296 200m Steel 8mm crown and Explorer-style 3-6-9 dial
6536 Mid-to-late 1950s 1030 100m Steel 6mm crown; compare the 6536/1
6536/1 c.1955–1959 (Phillips) 1030 100m Steel Small-crown model with the /1 reference marking
6538 c.1956–1959 1030 200m Steel 8mm crown; the reference associated with Sean Connery’s Bond

Phillips identifies an A260 in its 1954 6205; Christie’s lists caliber 1030 for both 6536 and 6536/1. Phillips places the 6200’s launch in 1954; Hodinkee dates the reference to 1955–1956. Phillips 6205; Christie’s 6536/1; Hodinkee’s early-reference comparison.

Acrylic models (1958–1990)

The 5512 introduced crown guards in 1959. Later 5512 production used chronometer movements, while the 5513 remained the non-chronometer model. Rolex dates the introduction of the Submariner Date to 1969. The 5512, 5513, 5514, and 5517 are tracked together on the 5xxx-family page.

Reference Approximate period Movement Type Case Key distinction
No-date
5508 1958–1962 1530 No-date 38mm SS Small crown, no crown guards
5510 c.1958–1959; later end dates published 1530 No-date 38mm SS 8mm crown, no crown guards; Phillips chronology
5512 1959–around 1980 1530/1560/1570 No-date 40mm SS Crown guards; gilt and matte dials; chronometer movements on later examples
5513 c.1962–1989/1990 1530/1520 No-date 40mm SS Gilt, matte and later glossy dials; non-chronometer model
5514 1972–1978 in Antiquorum’s chronology 1520 No-date 40mm SS COMEX; helium escape valve; exact endpoints disputed
5517 1970s 1520 No-date 40mm SS British military issue; fixed strap bars
Date
1680 1969–around 1980 1575 Date 40mm SS Red and white SUBMARINER text; detailed dial types on the reference page
1680/8 1969–late 1970s 1575 Date 40mm YG Yellow-gold version; black and blue dials

Five-digit era (1979–2012)

The references in this section use sapphire crystals. The short-lived 168000 belongs with the 16800 generation despite its six-digit number. Date models moved from caliber 3035 to 3135; the no-date 14060 and 14060M use calibers 3000 and 3130. Steel, two-tone and yellow-gold versions appear in the table below.

Reference Approximate period Movement Type Case Key distinction
No-date (steel)
14060 Around 1990–1999/2000 3000 No-date 40mm SS Sapphire crystal; two-line dial
14060M Around 1999/2000–2012 3130 No-date 40mm SS Caliber 3130; two-line and later four-line dials
Date (steel)
16800 1979–late 1980s 3035 Date 40mm SS Sapphire crystal; matte and later glossy dials
168000 1980s; Sotheby’s dates one to c.1986 3035 Date 40mm SS “Triple Zero” reference; catalogued example
16610 1988–2010 3135 Date 40mm SS Black dial and aluminium bezel insert
16610LV 2003–2010 3135 Date 40mm SS “Kermit”: black dial, green aluminium bezel and larger hour markers
Date (precious metal)
16803 c.1984–1987/1988 3035 Date 40mm SS/YG Two-tone; blue or black dial
16808 1979–around 1987 3035 Date 40mm YG Gold sapphire-crystal model; Christie’s chronology
16613 From 1988; successor introduced 2009 3135 Date 40mm SS/YG Two-tone successor to 16803
16618 From 1988; successor introduced 2008 3135 Date 40mm YG Yellow-gold successor to 16808

Gold models gained ceramic successors in 2008, two-tone models in 2009 and steel Date models in 2010. Retail sales of the outgoing references could overlap those introductions. Five-digit chronology; Ceramic rollout.

Ceramic era (2008–2020)

The 40mm ceramic generation began with the yellow-gold 116618 and white-gold 116619LB in 2008. Antiquorum offered a 116619 at its December 2008 sale. The two-tone 116613 followed in 2009, the steel 116610LN and 116610LV in 2010, and the no-date 114060 in 2012. These watches have Cerachrom ceramic bezel inserts and Glidelock bracelet adjustment. See Monochrome's chronology and Fratello's January 2010 report.

Reference Approximate period Movement Type Case Key distinction
No-date
114060 2012–2020 3130 No-date 40mm SS Ceramic bezel; enlarged luminous hour markers
Date (steel)
116610LN 2010–2020 3135 Date 40mm SS Cerachrom bezel, Glidelock bracelet
116610LV 2010–2020 3135 Date 40mm SS “Hulk”: green dial and green ceramic bezel
Date (precious metal)
116613 2009–2020 3135 Date 40mm SS/YG Black LN or blue LB dial and bezel
116618 2008–2020 3135 Date 40mm YG Full gold, Cerachrom
116619LB 2008–2020 3135 Date 40mm WG “Smurf”: white gold, blue dial and bezel

41mm generation (from 2020)

Rolex introduced a 41mm case in 2020, with caliber 3230 in the no-date Submariner and caliber 3235 in the Submariner Date. Both changes appear in Rolex's 2020 chronology entry.

The 2020 configurations pair these materials and dial colours with ceramic bezel inserts:

Reference Material Dial / bezel Caliber
124060 Steel Black / black; no date 3230
126610LN / 126610LV Steel Black / black or black / green 3235
126613LN / 126613LB Steel and yellow gold Black / black or blue / blue 3235
126618LN / 126618LB Yellow gold Black / black or blue / blue 3235
126619LB White gold Black / blue 3235

Monochrome lists these 2020-generation configurations. Rolex specifies the 3230 and 3235 movements and approximately 70 hours of power reserve.

Special branches

Rolex dates its formal partnership with COMEX to 1971. The programme included Submariners and Sea-Dwellers; the 5514 was the dedicated Submariner reference with a helium escape valve. Documented examples include early non-logo watches, later service dials and Argentine Navy markings. Rolex chronology; Antiquorum’s reference overview.

The MilSub guide covers British military 5513, double-reference 5513/5517 and 5517 watches. Identifying features include fixed strap bars, a bezel graduated for all 60 minutes, sword hands, a circled-T tritium mark and military caseback engravings. A surviving watch may have replacement parts; the issued configuration needs to be checked against its own records. Phillips 5517, circa 1977.

Movement progression

Movements covers technical specifications, component variations and service-part identification.

Caliber Submariner use
A260 6204 and 6205
A296 6200
1030 6536, 6536/1 and 6538
1530 5508, 5510 and early 5512/5513
1520 5513, 5514 and 5517
1560 / 1570 Chronometer 5512 versions
1575 1680, including gold versions
3035 16800, 168000, 16803 and 16808
3000 14060
3130 14060M and 114060
3135 16610, 16610LV, 16613, 16618 and the 40mm ceramic Submariner Date generation
3230 / 3235 41mm generation: no-date / Date

Related families

  • Sea-Dweller — Rolex’s saturation-diving line, with a helium escape valve.
  • GMT-Master — an additional hour hand and a 24-hour bezel for reading another time zone.
  • Explorer — a time-only sports watch without a rotating timing bezel.

Shared references

Sources