Rolex Oyster Perpetual 4392
Bubbleback and early Oyster → 4392
Auction catalogues identify Rolex ref. 4392 as an automatic Oyster Perpetual. Documented watches have steel or gold cases, 31–32 mm in the records reviewed, and more than one dial layout. The catalogues date individual watches from circa 1945 to a single circa-1959 estimate; the production span remains open. Antiquorum and Skinner name Cal. 630 or 630NA in particular examples. A 2025 Antiquorum catalogue describes small seconds on a dial it considers probably reprinted, so that watch cannot anchor a factory variant.
Core facts
| detail | documented evidence |
|---|---|
| reference | 4392 |
| model wording | Auction houses describe it as an Oyster Perpetual; Bubbleback is a collector grouping |
| documented dates | Catalogue estimates include circa 1945, 1946, 1947, 1949 and 1959; these are dates assigned to individual watches |
| case | Tonneau or rounded Oyster cases; 31 mm in one record and 32 mm in several others |
| materials | Stainless steel and 14 ct / 14K gold examples are recorded; the Field Manual lists yellow-gold 4392/7 and rose-gold 4392/8 |
| movement | Automatic; Cal. 630 or 630NA, 17 jewels, named in several records; Heritage gives movement no. N 26369 without a caliber, and Antiquorum's 1991 lot gives a 9¾-ligne, 17-jewel movement |
| seconds | Center seconds in several lots; Antiquorum's 2025 lot describes small seconds on a probably reprinted dial |
| known dial examples | Black radium Arabic, silvered applied markers, salmon (refinished), Black, Starr & Gorham signed, and a two-tone Breguet-numeral dial catalogued as probably reprinted |
Where it sits in the line
Christie's and Antiquorum catalogue the 4392 as an Oyster Perpetual. Rolex Forums and specialist lists group it with Bubblebacks, the collector term for early automatic Oyster watches with a domed caseback. The site uses that family grouping for navigation; the auction catalogues use Oyster Perpetual for the model.
Production outline
Heritage dates a 31 mm steel watch to circa 1945. Christie's gives circa 1946 for another steel example; Skinner and Antiquorum place separate steel watches around 1947, and Antiquorum dates a 14 ct gold example circa 1949. Anderson & Garland gives circa 1959 for a steel watch whose serial is partly masked as 424xxx. These dates belong to individual watches; the latest is one catalogue attribution, not a production endpoint.
Antiquorum's 2025 lot identifies case 607544 and movement 90717, and dates the watch to 1947. Its photographs show a Jubilee bracelet and an exterior caseback. The source calls the dial probably reprinted, which limits what the image can establish about factory dial options.
Movement notes
Antiquorum's 2003 record names Cal. 630 NA, 17 jewels, and a center-seconds layout. Skinner names Cal. 630NA and 17 jewels on a separately catalogued watch. Antiquorum's 2025 lot lists Cal. 630 and 17 jewels but describes small seconds on a dial it considers probably reprinted; the photographs do not show the movement. Heritage gives movement no. N 26369 without a numeric caliber, and the 1991 gold example is described by size and jewel count only: 9¾ lignes and 17 jewels. Cal. 630-family movements are documented in these watches; the movement record for the reference remains incomplete.
See Movements for the broader Cal. 630 and 630NA context.
Dial map
Auction records show several configurations. Heritage describes luminous numerals and large batons; Antiquorum's 1991 gold example has a matte-silver dial with applied gold indexes, and its 2003 steel example has a black dial with radium-coated Arabic numerals and indexes. Christie's calls its salmon dial refinished, leaving its original appearance uncertain. Skinner's watch carries a Black, Starr & Gorham signature, a retailer-signed example rather than a reference-wide dial type.
Antiquorum's 2025 lot has Breguet numerals on a two-tone dial. The house says the dial was probably reprinted and notes its small-seconds display. It also lists Cal. 630, while other catalogue examples identify that caliber with center seconds. The photographs do not show the movement, so keep this as a conflicting lot description rather than a verified small-seconds configuration.
Case, bezel, crystal, and crown notes
Several catalogues give a 32 mm diameter; Heritage lists 31 mm for its circa-1945 example. Descriptions include a tonneau-shaped case, screw-down back, and screw-down crown. The reviewed lots include steel watches and Antiquorum's 14 ct gold example from 1991. The Field Manual lists 4392/7 in yellow gold and 4392/8 in rose gold, both with smooth bezels. Those suffix and material entries come from a specialist reference table; the auction records add no complete case or suffix sequence.
The Antiquorum 2025 photographs show a smooth bezel and a domed outer caseback. Its caseback view does not show the inside reference stamp. Crystal type and water-resistance rating are not consistently stated in the available records.
Bracelet, clasp, and packaging notes
Antiquorum lists a Rolex Jubilee bracelet with deployant clasp on case 607544. Other records show leather straps or leave the bracelet unspecified. These are as-catalogued configurations; original delivery and standard 4392 fitment remain unverified. Antiquorum's 1991 lot was offered with a fitted box. One sale does not establish a standard box or paper set for the reference.
Special branches
Skinner's Black, Starr & Gorham signature is a documented retailer-signed example. The Field Manual's 4392/7 and 4392/8 entries distinguish yellow- and rose-gold cases without giving a chronology for those suffixes. The small-seconds watch in Antiquorum's 2025 lot is the clearest unresolved case: the house suspects a reprint, lists Cal. 630, and provides no movement photograph.
Historical market and auction record
| catalogue record | watch as catalogued |
|---|---|
| Heritage, Timepieces Signature Auction, 19 May 2012, lot 60319 | Steel; circa 1945; 31 mm; screw-back case; movement N 26369; luminous numerals and batons |
| Austin Auction Gallery, 26 January 2025 | Steel; 32 mm; white dial with gilt Arabic numerals; smooth bezel; later leather strap |
| Antiquorum, Geneva, 20 October 1991, lot 117 | 14 ct gold; circa 1949; 32 mm; 9¾-ligne, 17-jewel center-seconds movement; no numbered caliber given |
| Antiquorum, Geneva, 2 December 2003, lot 32 | Steel; 1940s; 32 mm; Cal. 630NA, 17 jewels; black dial; center seconds |
| Christie's, Watches Online, lot 131 | Steel; circa 1946; 32 mm; salmon dial described as refinished |
| Skinner, 2022, lot 1107 | Steel; circa 1947; 32 mm; Cal. 630NA, 17 jewels; Black, Starr & Gorham signed dial |
| Antiquorum, Monaco, 12 December 2025, lot 105 | Case 607544; 1947; steel; Cal. 630, 17 jewels; likely reprinted two-tone dial; Jubilee bracelet |
| Anderson & Garland, 23 July 2025, lot 414 | Steel; serial partly masked; circa 1959 catalogue estimate; white Arabic dial and center seconds |
Anderson & Garland's circa-1959 estimate is the latest date in these records. It describes one watch with a partly masked serial, not a production endpoint.
Gallery
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Case 607544, full view. Antiquorum, Monaco, 12 December 2025, lot 105.
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Case 607544, dial and case profile. Antiquorum, Monaco, 12 December 2025, lot 105.
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Case 607544, exterior caseback. Antiquorum, Monaco, 12 December 2025, lot 105.
Sources
- "Antiquorum Geneva, 1991, lot 117 — Rolex ref. 4392", Antiquorum, 1991-10-20
- "Antiquorum Geneva, 2003, lot 32 — Rolex ref. 4392", Antiquorum, 2003-12-02
- "Antiquorum Monaco, 2025, lot 105 — Rolex ref. 4392, case 607544", Antiquorum, 2025-12-12
- "Christie's, Watches Online, lot 131 — Rolex ref. 4392", Christie's, 2020-01-01
- "Skinner, 2022, lot 1107 — Rolex ref. 4392", Skinner Auctions via Bidsquare, 2022-01-01
- "Anderson & Garland, Fine Watches, 2025, lot 414 — Rolex ref. 4392", Anderson & Garland, 2025-07-23
- "Austin Auction Gallery, January 2025 — Rolex ref. 4392", Austin Auction Gallery, 2025-01-26
- "Colin A. White, The Vintage Rolex Field Manual — 4392/7 and 4392/8 table entries", Chevalier Edition
- "Heritage Auctions, Timepieces Signature Auction, 19 May 2012, lot 60319 — Rolex ref. 4392", Heritage Auctions, 2012-05-19
- "Rolex Forums, archived thread 69967 — ref. 4392 examples", Rolex Forums
- "Rolex Forums, 2011 identification thread — Bubbleback reference list", Rolex Forums, 2011-09-30
- "Sammler-Uhren, Rolex model reference list", Sammler-Uhren
