Rolex Submarine Hermetique 3666
Reference:3666
Pre-Oyster and Bubbleback index › 3666
Reference 3666 appears on pre-Oyster Hermetique watches catalogued as Submarine, as well as on a separate 1940 antimagnetic chronograph. The Hermetique examples discussed here use a hinged inner watch case inside a screw-bezel outer shell. A 1924 Cargills Ceylon example and a circa-1925 Bonhams lot document the silver version; neither establishes the full production span.
Core facts
| detail | value |
|---|---|
| reference | 3666 |
| name in catalogues | Rolex Submarine / Hermetique; labels vary by source |
| dated examples | one dealer-listed as 1924; Bonhams catalogued a similar ref. 3666 as circa 1925 |
| case | outer shell with screw-down bezel; hinged inner watch case |
| material documented on ref. 3666 examples | sterling silver |
| diameter | 32mm in the Cargills and Bonhams records; 33mm in a 2016 auction catalogue |
| movement | manual, 15 jewels in the cited lots; described as Rolex Prima in two catalogues; no caliber number established |
| documented dials | white enamel or white/silvered dials with Arabic numerals and subsidiary seconds; one auction catalogue describes an engine-turned dial with cathedral hands |
| production span | not established by the examples reviewed here |
Where it sits in the line
Rolex dates the launch of its Submarine to 1922. The company describes a watch hinged inside a second case whose bezel and crystal screwed down to close the outer shell. Its account concerns the Submarine design, not reference 3666 specifically. The cited ref. 3666 examples are dated 1924 and circa 1925 by their sellers or auctioneers.
Jean Finger received Swiss patent CH 89276 for a protective watch case in 1921. Hans Wilsdorf filed British patent GB 197208 for a similar case in 1922; it was granted in 1923 and does not name Finger. David Boettcher notes that some cases bear Finger's initials and patent number, while other case makers also produced hermetic designs. The sources give no terms for any arrangement between Wilsdorf and Finger.
The name “The Submarine” was registered by Wilsdorf in Switzerland on 31 March 1922, according to the surviving registration reproduced by RolexMagazine and discussed by Boettcher. Rolex's current history calls the Submarine a Rolex launch. Boettcher distinguishes early Submarine watches from later Rolex-branded models. He identifies W&D as a British sponsor mark used when a case was submitted for hallmarking; it names the submitter, not the case maker. The Cargills listing reports Rolex signatures on its particular case, dial and movement; that lot-level description does not settle the branding of every Hermetique.
Case construction
The outer case closes with a threaded bezel and crystal. Inside it, a separate watch is attached on a hinge. Opening the outer bezel gives access to the inner watch and its crown for winding or setting; the inner watch swings out rather than needing to be removed. Rolex's history describes this construction as watertight when closed. The catalogues give no depth rating; surviving examples need individual testing before anyone can describe them as water-resistant.
The 1924 Cargills listing identifies a sterling-silver case and records the reference number 3666. It also describes a hinged inner case and a 32mm width. Bonhams catalogued another silver 3666 at 32mm; the 2016 Watches of Knightsbridge catalogue gives 33mm for its example. These are catalogue measurements, not evidence of multiple factory case sizes.
Movement notes
Bonhams and Watches of Knightsbridge describe 15-jewel manual movements on ref. 3666 examples. The latter calls its movement a Rolex Prima; the Cargills listing uses the same grade name. None of these catalogue entries identifies a caliber number.
Dial examples
Three catalogued examples show different dial treatments; they do not establish the full range:
| example | catalogue description | source |
|---|---|---|
| Cargills Ceylon, listed as 1924 | white enamel, black Arabic numerals, subsidiary seconds; Cargills and Rolex signatures reported by the dealer | Bold Timepieces |
| Bonhams, circa 1925 | white dial, luminous Arabic numerals, subsidiary seconds | Bonhams, sale 29150, lot 48 |
| Watches of Knightsbridge, 1920s | silver engine-turned dial, Arabic numerals, subsidiary seconds and cathedral hands | Watches of Knightsbridge, catalogue lot 376 |
The Watches of Knightsbridge catalogue describes cathedral hands but gives no military provenance. The dial should be described without a military label.
Two other catalogue uses of 3666
Christie's titled a different Hermetique “No. 3666” and assigned it to the 1910s. That estimate predates Finger’s 1921 patent, and the catalogue leaves “No.” undefined. The entry cannot date the later ref. 3666 unless the numbering is resolved.
Phillips catalogued a 1940 antimagnetic chronograph as reference 3666. Its 36mm steel case, two-register dial and manual Valjoux 22 movement distinguish it from the small hinged-case Hermetique. Phillips recorded case 041'928 and a CHF 162,500 result in 2016. The matching number does not connect the two designs.
Auction record
| sale or listing | date / catalogue date | identifying details | result |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bold Timepieces | listed as 1924 | Cargills Ceylon retailer signature; sterling silver; 32mm; 15-jewel manual Rolex Prima | dealer listing; sale status not stated |
| Bonhams, sale 29150, lot 48 | 21 February 2024; circa 1925 | silver ref. 3666; manual 15-jewel movement; 32mm | GBP 2,816 including premium |
| Watches of Knightsbridge, catalogue lot 376 | catalogue describes a 1920s watch | sterling silver; 15-jewel manual Rolex Prima; engine-turned dial; 33mm | estimate GBP 800–1,200 |
| Phillips, Geneva Watch Auction: Four, lot 54 | 12 November 2016; 1940 | separate stainless-steel antimagnetic chronograph; Valjoux 22; 36mm; case 041'928 | CHF 162,500 |
Related references
-
Silver ref. 3666 Hermetique, circa 1925, Bonhams lot 48 -
Cargills Ceylon ref. 3666 listing -
Separate 1940 antimagnetic chronograph catalogued as ref. 3666
Sources
- Rolex, “Mastering waterproofness” — Rolex's account of the 1922 Submarine and hinged double case; does not identify ref. 3666.
- David Boettcher, “Rolex Hermetic” — Finger patent, Wilsdorf's British patent, case construction, and a separately measured Hermetic; not a ref. 3666 survey.
- David Boettcher, “Rolex Submarine?” — trademark history and the limits of W&D sponsor marks; argues against treating every W&D-marked Hermetic as Rolex-branded.
- Bold Timepieces, “1924 Rolex Submarine Hermetique, ref. 3666, Cargills Ltd. Ceylon” — one dealer-described silver example and its markings, dial and movement.
- Bonhams, sale 29150, lot 48 — circa-1925 ref. 3666. Collector Square lot record lists the measurements and result.
- Watches of Knightsbridge, catalogue lot 376 — 1920s silver Hermetic ref. 3666, engine-turned dial, cathedral hands, and 15-jewel manual movement.
- Phillips, Geneva Watch Auction: Four, lot 54 — the separate 1940 antimagnetic chronograph catalogued as reference 3666.
- Christie's, “Signed Rolex, model Hermetique, No. 3666, 1910s” — catalogue wording leaves the number type unclear.
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