Rolex Day-Date 36 118209

This is a checked version, approved on 27 September 2026. New changes may have been made.


Day-Date › 118209

Rolex Day-Date 36 118209 — white gold, smooth bezel and a three-piece Oyster bracelet, the combination that makes it read as steel.
Rolex Day-Date 36 118209 — white gold, smooth bezel and a three-piece Oyster bracelet, the combination that makes it read as steel.

The 118209 is the smooth-bezel white-gold Day-Date 36. The documented configuration combines a 36 mm 18k white-gold case with a three-piece Oyster bracelet and caliber 3155. It is the white-gold counterpart to the smooth-bezel yellow-gold 118208. Archived catalogue and dated-watch records place the reference in the 6-digit generation from around 2000 into the late 2010s; they do not establish exact case-production boundaries.


Core facts

detail value
reference 118209
family Day-Date (Day-Date 36, 6-digit)
production 2000 to about 2019
movement caliber 3155, double quickset, COSC
case 36mm 18k white gold
crystal sapphire with Cyclops
bezel smooth, gently domed
bracelet white-gold Oyster three-piece, reference 73859; President also catalogued
dial silvered Roman the standard; silver diamond, black, blue, white, purple, brown, red, "Wave", cherry and mother-of-pearl documented
crown screw-down, Twinlock
siblings 118208 (yellow gold, smooth), 118206 (platinum, smooth), 118239 (white gold, fluted), 118139 (white gold, strap)
successor none direct; the 2019 caliber-3255 Day-Date 36 dropped the white-gold smooth

Where it sits in the line

The Day-Date family uses precious-metal cases, with fluted and smooth-bezel branches and both President and Oyster bracelet fitments in the 6-digit catalogue. The 118209 belongs to the smooth-bezel white-gold branch, with a three-piece Oyster bracelet in the documented examples.

Within the 6-digit generation it is the white-gold member of the smooth-bezel branch: the 118208 in yellow gold, the 118206 in platinum with its ice-blue dial, and the 118209 in white. Against its own fluted sibling the 118239 it gives up all the visual weight and keeps the case, the movement and the day aperture. The reviewed sources do not publish production totals comparing smooth and fluted references, so relative population cannot be established from the catalogue alone.

Production outline

The 118209 ran from 2000, when the 6-digit references replaced the 5-digit line, through to about 2019. Documented examples cluster in the early part of that window, with dated watches recorded from 2000, 2001, 2002, 2004 and 2005, and the reference is easier to find from those years than from the 2010s. Rolex has published no production figure.

The 2019 caliber-3255 Day-Date 36 catalogue carried fluted-bezel references. The reviewed catalogue record does not show a plain-bezel white-gold 36 mm successor, so the 118209 appears to end that documented branch.

Movement notes

Caliber 3155 drives the 118209: the double-quickset Day-Date movement, COSC certified, with day and date both advanced from the crown and a hacking seconds hand. Later production carries the blue Parachrom hairspring that Rolex rolled across the catalogue from around 2005. It is the same movement family as the fluted 118239 and the yellow-gold 118208. Case finish, bezel, bracelet, dial, and delivery configuration must still be checked separately. The Reference:Movements page holds the caliber lineage, and the 118238 entry covers the 3155 in detail.

Dial map

 
The standard dial: silvered, applied white-gold Roman numerals, no luminous material, and hands carrying a black enamel stripe in place of a lume channel.

The standard example documented here has a silvered dial, applied white-gold Roman numerals, no luminous hour plots, and hands with a dark central stripe. Those are observations of the photographed dial; the page does not infer Rolex's design intent from them.

Beyond the silvered Roman, black, blue, white, purple, brown and red dials are all documented on the reference, as are silver dials with diamond hour markers and mother-of-pearl dials with diamond settings. A rippled “Wave” dial is also documented on early-2000s white-gold 118209 examples. Its presence and date should be established from the individual watch and catalogue record. Deeper dial taxonomy across the President line sits on the 1803 entry; on a watch this plain the dial is most of what there is to choose.

Case, bezel, crystal, and crown

The case is the 36mm white-gold Oyster of the 6-digit generation, with its broader lugs and fully polished flanks, a screw-down caseback, a screw-down Twinlock crown and a sapphire crystal with a Cyclops over the date. Later examples carry the engraved rehaut that Rolex introduced across the catalogue in the second half of the 2000s.

The bezel is smooth and gently domed, polished white gold with no fluting. The smooth white-gold bezel changes the visual treatment from the fluted 118239. Caseback, bracelet, and end-link markings can help identify the metal, but each component must be checked for originality and fitment.

Bracelets, end links, and clasps

 
Caseback and bracelet. The 18K stamp on the end link is one of the few external cues that the watch is not steel.

The cited examples use a white-gold three-piece Oyster bracelet, reference 73859. Some catalogue and market records also mention President-bracelet fitment. Bracelet reference and clasp code date the bracelet component, not the watch head.

Clasp descriptions vary between a plain folding Oysterclasp and a concealed folding Crownclasp, which is consistent with both fittings having been available over a nineteen-year run. As with any of these, a clasp date code dates the bracelet rather than the watch head, and decades of service can put a later bracelet on an earlier watch. The cross-family detail sits on Reference:Bracelets.

Special branches

The stealth President

The 118209 combines a precious-metal case with a smooth bezel and Oyster bracelet. Its identifying features remain the Day-Date case, day aperture, metal markings, movement, and documented bracelet and dial configuration.

The white-gold smooth as an endpoint

The 2019 caliber-3255 catalogue examples cited here use fluted bezels in the Day-Date 36 range. The 118209 is therefore the last documented 118xxx white-gold smooth-bezel reference in this record; the catalogue does not establish a direct successor.

Market

The reviewed evidence is mainly catalogue, dealer, and individual sale data. It does not establish a reference-wide asking-price band, scarcity premium, or dial hierarchy. Box, papers, dial, bracelet, and service history belong to the individual watch.

The following records are individual sale entries and are not a complete auction census.

date house configuration result
June 2026 Sterling Vault Auctioneers 36mm 18k white gold, silver dial USD 22,994
June 2026 Monaco Legend Group 36mm 18k white gold, black dial USD 20,608

Related references

See also the Day-Date family index, movement reference, bracelet & clasp guide, and serial numbers by year.

Sources