Rolex Datejust Turn-O-Graph 1625

Datejust → 1625

Steel and yellow-gold Rolex Datejust Turn-O-Graph reference 1625 with champagne dial and Jubilee bracelet — Sotheby's, circa 1971, case 2,754,615.

Ref. 1625 is a Datejust with a bidirectional, 60-minute Turn-O-Graph bezel.

Core facts

detail	value
reference	1625
line	Datejust Turn-O-Graph; auction catalogues also use “Thunderbird”
documented dates	Case-numbered auction examples dated circa 1960–1974; published production range often given as 1959–1977
case	Usually catalogued at 35 or 36 mm; measurements vary by lot
materials	Case-numbered examples in steel with yellow- or white-gold bezel, solid yellow gold, and pink gold
movement	Rolex parts catalogues list date works for Cal. 1565 and Cal. 1575 in case ref. 1625; the transition year remains undated
bezel	Bidirectional, graduated and reeded or engine-turned; auction lots describe yellow or white gold
crystal	Fratello describes acrylic on one circa-1974 example; fitment across the reference remains unresolved
bracelets	Jubilee and riveted Oyster examples appear in catalogues; original delivery is watch-specific

Where it sits in the line

Antiquorum quotes Rolex’s 1965 catalogue as calling ref. 1625 the “Datejust, Turn-O-Graph.” The watch combines the date and Cyclops lens of a Datejust with a rotating timing bezel. Sotheby’s 2020 catalogue calls one example a “Thunderbird Datejust,” and Rolex Forums collectors use both names. This records the nickname in auction and owner usage; no specific squadron-issued 1625 is identified. Antiquorum, lot 76 Sotheby's Rolex Forums discussion

Production outline

Fratello, Amsterdam Watch Company, and Swiss Watch Club give a broad production span of 1959–1977. Auction records document individual watches dated circa 1960, 1964, 1965, 1967, 1971 and 1974. The catalogue dates attach to those individual watches. The sources reviewed here do not give a factory production endpoint. Fratello Amsterdam Watch Company Swiss Watch Club

Movement notes

Rolex’s Cal. 1565 parts catalogue lists calendar ring 8023 for case ref. 1625 and labels automatic-device bridge parts 1560. An EmmyWatch Cal. 1565 compilation lists date-indicator seating 7964 for ref. 1625. Rolex’s Cal. 1575 parts catalogue lists the same seating for ref. 1625 and marks its automatic-device bridge 1570. The records document listed parts and bridge markings. Inspect a watch’s movement to identify its caliber; the catalogues do not date the changeover.

Auction catalogues list 1625 examples as Cal. 1560 or 1570. Antiquorum’s 2006 record for a 1971 watch says the movement is stamped 1570, then identifies the date calibre as 1575, citing Osvaldo Patrizzi. A collector-maintained timeline on r/rolex places the 1565-to-1575 change around 1965, but does not tie that estimate to a serial-backed movement sequence. Inspect an individual movement to identify the caliber fitted. r/rolex timeline

Dial map

The catalogued examples show black gilt, black, silver, champagne, grey, pink and grey linen dials. Phillips describes its circa-1965 black dial as gilt; Sotheby’s records a champagne dial circa 1971; Christie's describes a pink brushed dial on a pink-gold watch circa 1967. Antiquorum lists a grey dial on its white-gold example and a grey linen dial on a circa-1974 steel watch. The catalogues document individual dials rather than a complete factory range. Phillips Sotheby's Christie's Antiquorum

Sotheby's, circa 1971: champagne dial with applied baton markers.

Case, bezel, crystal, and crown

Auction records show the reference in steel with yellow- or white-gold bezel, as well as solid yellow-gold and pink-gold examples. These lots document individual configurations. The sources reviewed here do not enumerate the factory option range or its frequency. Most listed diameters are 36 mm; Phillips and Christie's list 35 mm for their examples. Antiquorum's 18k yellow-gold example Christie's pink-gold example

The bezel rotates in both directions and carries a 60-minute scale. Antiquorum describes reeded and graduated 18k white-gold bezels on two steel examples; Fratello describes the friction fit on a circa-1974 yellow-gold watch. Bezel metal should be checked on the specific case.

Fratello describes a screw-down crown and acrylic crystal on its circa-1974 example. Auction records also describe screw-down cases and crowns. The sources reviewed here do not show a run-wide crystal or crown transition.

Case, crown, and bezel profile
Side profile of the case and bezel

Bracelet, clasp, and packaging

Jubilee bracelets appear on multiple auction examples, including the Sotheby’s circa-1971 watch shown here. Christie's records a riveted Oyster bracelet on its circa-1967 pink-gold example. The Phillips circa-1965 watch was catalogued on leather. These listings record sale-time configurations. Establishing original delivery requires evidence from each watch.

Sotheby's, circa 1971: caseback, Jubilee bracelet, and end link stamped 255.

The Sotheby’s photographs show end links stamped 255 on this Jubilee bracelet. The mark identifies a component on this watch; the published examples do not establish fitment across the reference. The listing photographs show the caseback and end links, while the clasp interior is outside the image set.

Special branches

Hodinkee’s 2019 “Bring a Loupe” feature documents a circa-1970 ref. 1625 with a Joyería Riviera retailer signature on the dial. The article identifies Riviera as a Havana retailer that later moved to San Juan. This is one documented signed example. Hodinkee gives no production count or first-sale record. Hodinkee

Auction record

date assigned by catalogue	case number	recorded configuration	source
circa 1960	538,990	steel and yellow gold; 36 mm; Cal. 1560 in catalogue	Antiquorum, Geneva, lot 185 (2023)
circa 1964	1,065,591	steel with white-gold bezel; black dial; 35 mm; Cal. 1560 in catalogue	Sotheby's, Important Watches (2020)
circa 1965	1,273,079	steel and yellow gold; black gilt dial; 36 mm; Cal. 1560 in catalogue	Phillips, Hong Kong Watch Auction XVI, lot 1003
circa 1967	1,556,624	pink gold; pink brushed dial; 35 mm; riveted Oyster bracelet	Christie's, lot 5804918 (2014)
circa 1971	2,754,615	steel and yellow gold; champagne dial; Jubilee bracelet; Cal. 1570 in catalogue	Sotheby's, Fine Watches (2024)
circa 1974	3,801,682	steel; grey linen dial; Jubilee bracelet; Cal. 1570 in catalogue	Antiquorum, Geneva, lot 285 (2024)
date not stated	2,793,138	18k yellow gold; Cal. 1570 in catalogue	Antiquorum, Geneva, lot 397 (2023)

Catalogue caliber labels in this table follow the listing. The Rolex parts sheets clarify that 1560 and 1570 can be bridge engravings on the date-equipped 1565 and 1575 movements.

Sotheby's, circa 1971, case 2,754,615
Dial and date magnifier
Case, crown, and bezel profile
Side profile of the case and bezel
Caseback, bracelet, and end link

Sources