Rolex Reference 3059

Rolex ref. 3059 case 36421, curved pink-gold case and Roman-numeral dial — Case 36421, Antiquorum Geneva, 2006, lot 123. The catalogue text says Arabic numerals; the photograph shows Roman numerals. Photo: Antiquorum.

Auction catalogues describe ref. 3059 as a manually wound, curved rectangular dress watch. Individual estimates range from circa 1930 to circa 1935–40. Records list 9 ct and 18 ct gold cases, small seconds, and movements marked Ultra Prima or Superbalance. They use several model labels: Prince, Prince Elegant Curvex, Precision, and Super Precision. The evidence does not settle one factory name for the reference.

Core facts

Detail	Documented record
Reference	3059
Type	Manually wound, curved rectangular wristwatch with subsidiary seconds
Date evidence	Catalogue estimates include circa 1930 and circa 1935–40. Reported Glasgow assay or import marks fall in 1937–38. These dates do not establish production endpoints.
Case	Curved rectangular cases; some are described as faceted, with snap-on backs
Documented metals	9 ct gold, 18 ct yellow gold, and 18 ct pink gold in individual records
Reported dimensions	Common reports are about 21 × 42–43 mm; one Bonhams listing gives 21 × 31 mm. The source does not explain the difference; its measurement is retained as listed.
Movement	Manual lever movements described as Ultra Prima or Superbalance; sources report 17 or 18 jewels. No numbered caliber is established.
Dial	Catalogued examples include Arabic or Roman numerals, a small-seconds register, and silvered, gilt, pink two-tone, or black repainted dials

Where it sits in the line

Prince is the most common family label in the sale records. Antiquorum’s 2008 title uses “Prince Elegant Curvex”; Christie's calls a 3059 “Precision,” and Sotheby’s and Antiquorum also use “Super Precision.” The Vintage Rolex Field Manual lists 3059 as a rectangular, red-gold Precision. Catalogue labels vary, and the available evidence leaves the factory model designation unsettled. Antiquorum 2006, lot 123 Antiquorum 2008, lot 687 Christie's 2002, lot 130 Sotheby's 2015, lot 129 The Vintage Rolex Field Manual, PDF p. 43

Production outline

The catalogued estimates include circa 1930 for case 36391 and circa 1935–40 for case 36448. Christie's, Antiquorum and Sotheby's report Glasgow marks dated 1937–38 on identified cases. Bonhams also gives a 1937 mark for a Fortnum & Mason example, but masks its serial as 363**, which may overlap case 36391. An archived 2010 Bonhams listing identifies case 36283 and a 1938 mark. These catalogue estimates and case marks do not establish production endpoints. Christie's 2000, lot 703 Christie's 1997, lot 26 Antiquorum 2008, lot 687 Sotheby's 2015, lot 129 Bonhams 2015, lot 95 archived Bonhams 2010 lot 162 listing

Catalogue record	Number as reported	Description and date
Christie's, London 2000, lot 703	36391	9 ct gold; circa 1930; silvered Arabic dial; 18-jewel Ultra Prima movement.
Christie's, London 1997, lot 26	36466	18 ct gold; 1930s; Glasgow mark dated 1937; Ultra Prima movement.
Bonhams, London 2010, lot 162 (archived listing)	36283	9 ct gold; Glasgow import mark dated 1938; 18-jewel Ultra Prima movement.
Bonhams, London 2015, lot 95	Serial 363**	Fortnum & Mason retail; Glasgow import mark dated 1937. The masked number may overlap another 363xx listing.
Antiquorum, Geneva 2006, lot 123	36421	18 ct pink gold; dated 1937; catalogue calls the dial Arabic, photograph shows Roman numerals.
Sotheby's, London 2015, lot 129	36443	Yellow gold; circa 1937; Glasgow import hallmark dated 1937; “Super Precision.”
Gazette Drouot, Paris 2022, lot 6	36448	Yellow gold; circa 1935–40; black Roman-numeral dial described as repainted; movement no. 20776.
Antiquorum, Geneva 2008, lot 687	36465	Yellow gold; Glasgow assay marks dated 1937–38; “Prince Elegant Curvex” and “Super Precision.”
Christie's, London 2002, lot 130	Not stated	9 ct gold; Glasgow import marks dated 1937; “Precision”; no case number in the catalogue description.
Optionata listing	Serial 36351	9 ct case reported by the seller; photographs show a silver Arabic dial, small seconds and caseback engraving.

Movement notes

The auction descriptions identify hand-wound lever movements, but their wording and jewel counts vary. Christie's and Antiquorum describe Ultra Prima examples with 17 or 18 jewels; later catalogues also use Superbalance. These terms appear on individual records, not as a confirmed reference-wide movement change. The available photographs do not show a readable caliber number. Antiquorum 1996, lot 198 Antiquorum 2006, lot 123 Antiquorum 2008, lot 687 Christie's 2000, lot 703

Dial map

The records show silvered dials with Arabic numerals, pink two-tone dials, and Roman-numeral examples. Christie's describes gilt Arabic numerals on case 36466. Antiquorum’s 2006 lot 123 says its dial has painted Arabic numerals, but the auction photograph clearly shows Roman numerals. Drouot identifies the black Roman dial on case 36448 as repainted, so it does not establish an original black-dial configuration. Christie's 1997, lot 26 Antiquorum 2006, lot 123 Drouot Estimations 2022, lot 6

Dial and small seconds on serial 36351. Photo: Optionata.

Case, bezel, crystal, and crown

Sale descriptions consistently call the case curved and rectangular. Some describe faceted sides or lugs, a curved crystal, and a snap-on back; Christie's describes a domed glass on one 18 ct example. The records do not establish one crystal material or a single case construction across all 3059 watches. Published measurements cluster around 21 × 42–43 mm, with one 21 × 31 mm listing; the source does not explain the discrepancy. Antiquorum 2006, lot 123 Christie's 1997, lot 26 Bonhams 2016, lot 57

Curved case profile, serial 36351. Photo: Optionata.

Bracelet, clasp, and packaging

The photographed examples use leather straps. Bonhams describes one 9 ct ref. 3059 with a gold-plated expandable bracelet, but does not establish whether it was original to the watch. Optionata’s serial 36351 listing pairs the watch with a tang buckle; that seller description does not establish original delivery. Bonhams 2016, lot 57 Optionata, serial 36351

Gallery

Case 36421, Antiquorum 2006
Dial and small seconds, serial 36351
Curved case profile, serial 36351. Photo: Optionata.

Sources